Preventing Tablesaw Kickback
Вставка
- Опубліковано 21 лип 2014
- bit.ly/1nS16WK
www.woodcraftmagazine.com/
bit.ly/1ka12XO
bit.ly/1pbhhTf
Showing & preventing kickback on a tablesaw is explained & demonstrated by Woodcraft Magazine's senior editor, Paul Anthony. Some of the methods involve splitter products (bit.ly/1yYmTo0) & (bit.ly/UqKVs8) and homemade items as well.
Micro Jig Grr-Ripper - www.woodcraft.com/products/mi...
Micro Jig Grip Block - www.woodcraft.com/products/mi...
Push Sticks at Woodcraft - www.woodcraft.com/search?q=pu...
Splitters at Woodcraft - www.woodcraft.com/search?q=sp... - Навчання та стиль
The 11 people that downthumbed this are missing at least one thumb.
Very craft Bob ...very CRAFTY
why 11 people.
xl, unbelievably it’s up to almost three dozen now. Maybe they were looking for porn and were disappointed! 🙄
And majority of brain cells.
pro trick: you can watch movies on flixzone. Me and my gf have been using it for watching all kinds of movies recently.
Great video. While in the Air Force I thought it would be a nice idea to make some Oak and cherry cutting boards, We had a wood shop on the base. Having very little experience with a table saw, I was cutting strips about one inch in width and 10 inches long. The person who was monitoring the shop came over and told me to be careful I could easily get a kick back. Unfortunately, I did not ask him any questions and advice about how to avoid this. The very next strip I cut came flying back and hit me right in the groin...painfully. I thought the guy who was watching over the shop must have been able to see the future. Before working on equipment like this it is a good idea to get some training with emphasis on safety and how to avoid accidents.
Just nicked my finger on my saw the other day and started watching these videos, didn't really understand kick back, now I do, going to put my splitter on!, Thanks!
I’ve been using my hand me down 1970s belt driven craftsman contractor table saw without a riving blade for 5 years. Lately I’ve been considering buying a newer saw belt driven or direct drive. The old craftsman has built dozens of tables and lately picture frames for the ms. While working in dim light last week testing a new blade as casual as you like I experienced my first kickback. I was cross cutting a small piece on a new 40T Dewalt blade. Scared to poo out of me. My right thumb was purple and swollen all week. Grateful it wasn’t much much worse. Not gonna lie scared its me enough to just stop using the saw all together. Next time I’m behind the saw a riving blade will be installed and I’ll have glasses and a hard hat on, not kidding. Stay safe everyone. :)
I have a Craftsmen 10 inch table saw that is at least 60 years old!
I have an old Beaver that was my grandfathers. It is built like a tank.
got my first kickback yesterday on the stomach, hurts like hell. this was helpful, thank you!
I got a nice shot to the nuts today. Will definitely be investing in a splitter blade
Thanks J.K. Simmons, I appreciate this!
That was me today, it about took my breath away!
I like the idea of making a "home made" splitter for an older saw. Thanks.
Great video. Wouldn’t be a bad idea to show potential accidents with other equipment like router table, drill press, jointer, dust collection etc. Just the same, very worthwhile video. 30 plus years in this great hobby and still learning.
Awesome video. However, most of these kick-back related videos seem to ignore discussing the specific sawing operations that are especially prone to kick back. I've seen books and videos that might say they are poor practice, but don't really stress how dangerous they are. I have had two kickback incidents in 40 years of casual table sawing and both occurred when I was cutting a piece (using the fence) wider than it was long, or that was nearly square. I know now how stupid that is, but at the time I was a novice.
My rule for preventing kickback is this: Never have a piece of wood between the blade and fence where the width (between blade and fence) is wider than, or nearly the same as, the length along the fence. If a piece is wider than it is long, or approximately square, it is very easy for the operator to bobble the piece, i.e. not keep it securely running along the fence. If the leading corner comes away from the fence, even slightly, the the rising teeth will lift it, turn it, catch it, and launch it. KICKBACK! I think it is probably common for novice woodworkers to get the idea to use the fence as a length stop to crosscut multiple pieces to a specified length using the miter gauge AND the fence. Very dangerous!
My first incident was in my high school shop class. I was cutting a piece almost exactly like the foam piece in this video - 12" x 12" piece of 3/4" plywood from a slightly larger piece of stock. I set the fence to 12" and performed the rip, then I thought I could use the fence to crosscut to length. Bad idea. The piece kicked back exactly like in this video and struck my hip bone, which was fortunately protected by a heavy leather belt, and then ricocheted away and hit a fellow student on the wrist - smashing his wristwatch and fracturing his wrist.
The other incident occurred years later when I needed to cut several 1x4 board chunks to the same length (about 8") and I stupidly thought I could use the fence as a length stop and hand hold the pieces as I crosscut them. I knew it was risky, but I thought if I was careful to hold the piece securely against the fence it would be okay. The first piece went okay, giving me some false confidence, but the second piece kicked back, hit me in the belly and then flew away and punched a hold in the drywall behind me. Fortunately, I still have all my fingers.
so what to do when you have to cut such sizes (square or wider) - a noivce here
dude, you should ALWAYS use a sled. This is the first thing I'm going to build when I receive my next table saw. See Matthias Wandel channel, he has a nice video where he saw how to make one.
Hi. I both kickback you have experienced did you use a riving knife? Also I understand the use of a sled for crosscuts but should it be usted For longitudinal cuts in square (or near to square) pieces?
@@renerguez I'm guessing that since the OP stated that the issues happened (I'm extrapolating from his time-line) roughly 30 plus years ago, I am guessing that those saws would not have had riving knives.
@@kennethsouthard6042 thanks! i know there are always some risk with table saws to have a kick back, but i´m trying to get an idea of how much is the risk in reality using riving knifes, feather boards and push blocks
I bought an old tablesaw that doesn't have a space for a riving knife and was wondering how to make it safer. This video answered my questions.
Thank you very much. Be safe.
Riving knife is very important. But even more important is technique.
Nothing is more important when it comes to safety.
Thank you for the safety tips-it serves as a constant reminder that kickback happens when you least expect it. The one time it happened believe me it hurts-a lot.
Just experience 4 episodes of kickback in 2 days, having never done so before, so I watched this to try to figure out why. I had become terrified of my beloved Dewalt jobsite saw. I instantly realised I had forgotten to replace the riving knife after swapping from my grooving blade. Phew, what a difference it made. Thanks for making me see this. I think once done I will never forget again.
You are a very good teacher.
Excellent video! A must for anyone that uses a table saw.
wow! EXCELENT video! crystal clear and the examples are the best i have ever seen! Thank you!!!!!
This is a great video, thank you - I’ve just picked up my first table saw, a cheap old thing for $70 Australian and whilst I had heard of kick back, had no idea the risks, thanks for explaining it so well and the demonstration. I’d only just researched this because first go with a test cut the timber lifted. Many thanks again
That homemade splitter is such a simple but effective idea. Thanks for sharing, I watch lots of table saw videos and you're the first person iv seen do this. Definitely better than nothing as I see many remove them for the inconvenience of the riving knife being too high.
A very thoughtful and clear explanation. Thank you.
Great video with a crystal clear explanation! Thanks!
It’s a very good explanation about kickback. Thanks!
great video, thanks for making it! very good to understand what causes this.
Thank you for that enlightening video. The solutions you are presenting are simple enough to be installed. Great job.
That’s fantastic… thank you for the explanation. This kickback happened to me and scared the life out of me. I’ve been horrified of using the tables saw till now that I know how to prevent it.
Many thanks 🙏
Good info, I like your presentation
Thanks for sharing. That was very helpful.
Kickback is definitely very dangerous and if you use a table saw much they will be alot of times you will be making these dangerous cuts. I have a very powerful high amp table saw so kickback has and is an issue. I also because of alot of complex cutting had to remove all the safety features. But I found a way to make most dangerous cuts safely by building a table saw sled to hold and make those types of cuts that are high risk. It gives you the ability to support and prevent the binding that happens causing the kickback.
Just like to add that cutting a bowed piece increases the chance of kickback. Especially short pieces like in the clip. Before cutting, check along edge of piece held against the saw fence to make sure there is no bow. And the cup(concave) in the lumber face goes down against the saw.
studfindingball - Thank you! Very good advice I can use!!
great video, thank you for posting it.
I was also told when using your push stick to push the piece through with the stick closer to the blade which pushes the wood more against the fence at the same time it pushes it through.
Very nice Video, Thanks much
So most modern saws already have the riving knife or "splitter" is that correct?
Good info I will have to make one cheers
Excellent video, thank you! I removed my splitter but didn't make the connection between that and the kickback scenario. I have been cutting large pieces of 2" rigid pink insulation, which create quite a gut punch when kicked back.
watching this after learning the hard way, I got a gnarly cut, but now I know how to prevent it, thanks.
I have always used a riving knife, but I imagined that its purpose was to prevent the divided parts of a board from closing behind the blade, as can happen with some woods, when stresses are released by the saw. I now understand this second, and no doubt more important, reason.
Great video
Thank you for this.
Excellent info, thank you very much for sharing!!! .'.
great information..thank you..!!
Well done. Thank you.
good info
thanks
Thank you, good stuff.
Thank you boss
Thanks for this video with actual demonstration. Will the riving knife prevent the kick back 100% ?. What is a blade guard and what is it used for?
I just had a terrible kickback incident and nearly cut off my finger from the small piece of wood on the left side of the blade shooting back into my middle finger shattering the bone and blowing out the back of my finger behind my nail. So terrible (and extremely painful)!! I need to get one of those splitters you spoke about when I have the extra money - I can’t lie, I’m very nervous to use my DW744 table saw right now :S thank you for the information!
I noticed a small sliver piece of material went by you when you were demonstrating the use of a splitter. How to prevent that from happening or is it too small to be concerned with? Where should I stand when making my cuts? I stand in front but I think I should change my position. Thank you for your safety tip.
At the 2:30 mark in the video, we begin to tell you how to prevent kickback throughout the end of the video with examples. The best place to stand when you are using a table saw is to the left of the blade in a position that is natural and comfortable for you. If you stand to the left, you'll automatically position the blade between you and the fence. In addition: Use a Riving Knife. A riving knife is a thin piece of metal shaped like a surfboard fin, and comes with your table saw. Use a Splitter. Consider a Crosscut Sled. Always Use a Push Stick. We also highly recommend the Micro Jig Grr-Ripper. And as always, be alert, be aware and don't let your guard down. Concentrate on the cut each and every time, and take your time.
Awesome video! Also always remember to set the blade height just enough to cut the piece in question. I see so many videos where woodworkers have the blade an inch out of the wood during the cut and this contributes to all sorts of issues kickback being one of the primary ones. Make sure you use good sharp blades as well as proper ones (don't rip with a crosscut blade for instance). Great video keep safe
I consider myself a newb to the table saw and i have been using it to cut perspex with a perspex/alluminum blade. I was told to have the blade way higher than needed to get a better cut. Is this true?
@@simyob not sure about perspex and aluminum cutting but table saw blades come with a setup instruction when you buy them. Mine recommend that the gullet of the blade be level with the top of the board. I guess this is to assist with sawdust ejection.
when i was in high shop class in the sixties we were shown a film where a long thin board kicked back and went into the operators chest with blood flying everywhere .
it was fake of course but it has stayed with me for over fifty years .
our teachers number one safety advice was " every time you turn the saw on ask yourself this question,
Where are my hands in relation to the blade"
continue to be aware of this all the way through the cut and NEVEr reach around to remove the cut material .
A little bit of fear is a good thing when operating a table saw or any machine .
I always wonder when i see videos where users work without this savety feature. Here in germany it is unimaginable. Nearly everybody use the splitting wedge! Work save! 😉
HolzwurmTom This was the entire point of this video......
Wow.. Thanks for the science.
Great info! Thanks for posting! :-)
if i ever get me a saw, you probably saved me from losing a thumb
Thank you for illustrating this graphically! I gained a good understanding of how kickback occurs. I am still a novice on the table saw, and wanted some understanding on this issue.
I had a horrible experience recently. Upgraded to a portable Dewalt DW7480 table saw model from my trusty old Craftsman saw. Read the manual completely. Installed riving knife (splitter), then the kickback assembly (saw-toothed wings on either side of riving knife), then the big clunky blade guard.
I had a large piece of wood to cut that did not fit under blade guard. I took this off, but left kickback assembly on, which snapped into place on the riving knife, on its own separate groove. Halfway through the wood piece, the kickback assembly flew off the saw and hit me in the chest. Wow, that hurt! Not sure if this is supposed to happen, but in my Craftsman you could remove the blade guard and kickback stayed in place.
Any thoughts?
Lass-in Angeles only assuming here, but maybe the anti kickback were not securely snapped into place or engaged into the riving knife?
What if you attached brackets (that can be raised and lowered) to the fence on each side of where the edges of the blade start and end as well as to the feeding end of the table and the exit end for the wood to slide under? Wouldn't those keep the board in place in the event of a kickback?
very good.
A great video. You mentioned the riving knife be aligned with the right side of the blade towards the fence and yet in the Sawstop manual they say to align the RK with the left of the blade away which is how it was, straight out of the box.
I am now confused. Which is it?
I appreciate the video, but had a few folllow-up questions: are a splitter and a riving knife two terms for the same thing? If not, what's the difference and which one is better? Also, I'm vaguely that modern saws have both a riving knife and anti-kickback pawls. If a riving knife works so well, why is an anti kickback pawl necessary? If they both provide the same function (preventing kickbacks), which one works better? Thanks again for the video.
They are very similar, a riving knife is better though. A riving knife is usually mounted on the trunion with the blade and so moves up and down with the blade. It is also much closer to the blade. Splitters are usually mounted on the throat plate and tend to be farther from the blade.
A riving knife goes a long way to helping prevent kickback but in this case more safety isn't a bad thing. Anti kickback pawls will grab the piece of wood and stop it if it does start to kickback even with the riving knife. They are usually mounted on bigger blade guards and when cutting larger pieces or using things like the microjig you take the blade guard off so you lose the anti-kickback pawls but you will still have the riving knife.
Can you use both the splitter and the riving knife that comes with modern table saws? And would that basically fool proof your system from kickbacks?
what did you make your tablesaw fence out of?
tanks i am from brazil
I had a kickback accident with a table saw in HS shop class back in 2002 and I’m forever afraid of table saws. Maybe newer ones are more safe?
You and others have mentioned a "zero clearance throat plate". I am a newbie wood worker. Is this type of throat plate purchased from the saw manufacture or one the woodwork makes? If the latter, How? Thank you!
Some modern saws like the Sawstop come with them. We have a selection of aftermarket ones for a lot of saws. Or you can make your own but using the standard one as a template. just a piece of wood that fits in the opening, flush to the surface that you then carefully raise the blade through.
Thanks
3 fingers sewed back on right hand from kickback. Never thought it would ever happen.
So sorry to hear this.
Holy moly!! First time table saw user & definitely want to avoid this! Hope you got feeling back in your fingers etc.
I got a 2 cm deep cut across the right side of my right palm. My thumb doesn’t work the same because of the damage to the muscle. I hope your fingers work again eventually.
great video I've now bought a table saw and this one of my concerns kick back.you didn't say anything about push sticks.is the splitter going to prevent kick back all the time
As long as your fence is perfectly parallel and your blades are sharp, kickbacks are very rare.. the splitter is an excellent device and actually works better for woods that have grain like pine. Pine has wild grain direction and often wants to close up around the blade.. keep your feed steady and you will be fine..
So to make one you just need a piece thinner than the blade and lined up with the fence side of the blade correct?
Ideally it would be the same width as the blade and in line with the blade.
...crashes into the wall instead....or even crashes into your window (LOL), but seriously, thanks for posting. Nice video.
Thanks, I understand a bit more now.
Excellent video! Can you please explain why kickback still occured after the splitter was attached? It looked like there was kickback on the non-working material. Is that not still just as dangerous (I'm an absolute beginner with a table saw)?
So typically the issue with kick back is the piece gets trapped between the fence and blade and has no where to go other than ride the blade and shoot out. On the offcut side there is no such trap and the piece can fall away. I believe the only reason the piece in the video at 3:27 flies back is because it is foam and super light.
Can't I just bolt or weld an fin onto my existing saw plate? Why isn't that standard saw design?
Got "punched" today, I was down on the ground for like 10 minutes. Holy hell that hurts. Also broke my thumb as the push stick snapped back at me. Guys you should get a splitter. I now have a tattoo of a board on my stomach.
How about installing the blade guard that the manufacturer supplied with the saw.
A lot of used older saws (which people new to the hobby buy to see if they like it) don't come with riving knives or blade guards. I know my first saw didn't. Or my second for that matter.
Can u remove the plastic blade guard & leave the splitter and claws on a older Delta contractors saw. Still provide kickback protection?
Yes you can!
0:30…oops should’ve watched this video last night when I got the feeling something was ab to happen
Just came back from medical care, seems I will recover from getting 1 kg of wood smashed into my face. Naturally, I want to know all I can about preventing kickbacks.
*+woodcraftmarketing*
What I've learned:
0. SawStop™
1. splitter on
2. blade guard on
3. correct fence alignment parallel to the blade
4. the front of the fence pulled back to the line where the wood leaves the blade
What's you opinion on the 4th? Should the fence be extended beyond the blade on the exiting side?
I was trying to cut some boards today. Board flew right back at me and hit me in the arm lucky I didn't get hit in the face. no goggles or face mask would have stopped that from possibly damaging my eyes. Might not even try to do it again and have somebody that knows something about woodworking do it. I had the blade too high. About 2 inches. Trying to cut 3/4 inch board with blade at 45 degree angle. Board got pinched between rip guard and blade. Lots of force. I might make a video of this and pass it on at UA-cam.🤕
I"m just going to have to stop using power tools. There's so much that can go wrong. But I've got stuff needing worked on now. So I'll try harder to be safe.
You just have to be smart. Don't work when tired or under the influence of alcohol or certain medications. Think through all cuts before you attempt them. Use all possible safety devices like blade guard and pushstick.
Some time ago my neighbour's dad was working with a table saw. A wooden chip or some small piece of wood kicked back and cut the man's throat. He bleeded to death. I don't know the details, but after hearing this story I'm really worried about working with a saw. Could you comment what could've happened to the man? Might it be the kickback or did he not use the saw properly?
Dont be scared of using the table saw. As along as you use the guard/splitter you will okay.
You could try using a face shield. I use one. Ya never know.
those little add in riving knives are not going to help if your workpiece starts to ride up on the blade...in which case you will decide to engage that other hand to hold it down fully investing your COG and both hands to get the cut done, and if kickback occurs before the stock engages with the splitter....you're fucked. There is no good substitute for a riving knife...take some time and make a real on from an old(thick) blade or something...I barely yanked a kid(15) away from a saw as he was engaged this way..and his bady started falling into the blade...his chest would have been cut into had I not "lucked out" and grabbed his overalls(from behind) in time....the stock hit his shoulder and he has a deep wound to prove it...but he's alive, and now he knows.
some saw blades have horns and the manf. claims that these are aniti kickback horns. I see them working as a chip limiter but cant understand how they can prevent kick back. perhaps this is just marketing? any thoughts on this?
We suggest using a MicroJig Gripper, a Splitter and Riving Knife, and your blade guard. Keep your blade clean and sharp. The cooler you run your blade the better reduction of cutting teeth are to heating up. If you run your blade slightly above the blade gullet this will aid in rising heat temp/expansion in the cutting teeth.
okay but I was asking why blades have horns and if they help prevent kickback or if that is just a lie
Thanks
Some manufacturer's have created "horns" in their blade designs stating that it helps prevent kickback. I am working with one such manufacturer for a video representing that design, and will get back with you.
Thanks that would be great!
I never knew this could happen 😖
This is not a miracle solution. All saw benches should have a splitter and blade guard.
so is all you need is a riving knife? then you're perfectly safe?
Hi John Mayer, big fan. A riving knife goes a long way to making your table saw safer by helping to eliminate kickback due to wood pinching closed on the blade. It does not make it perfectly safe though, you still need to be careful and make smart decisions when using your table saw. A blade guard is a great additional safety feature. As are push sticks.
The real Chainsaw Man intro
Riving Knife should not be in line with saw blade though
+- 0.3 mm to the right slightly outside the saw blade. PS it is best to make a Riving Knife from spring material BV. aluminium. And the wood remains pressed against the guide and the rest of the wood remains clamped in place against the guide and cannot shoot away, no kickback saw wood ((I've had it like this for years and it works perfectly) ) win win situation .
I wonder how you manage to keep those windows intact..
This was a demonstration to show how kickback can occur without proper safety techniques USING LIGHT WEIGHT RIGID INSULATION. Since this was done on purpose to TEACH what could happen, the windows were never in danger.
That insulation really looked like a piece of green MDF to me! But then again, My eyes aren't perfect. Sorry :')
If you view the video, Paul states exactly what he used at the 1:45 mark in the video.
i'll take a look, thanks!
Riving knife will prevent all of this!
Another good point, this was just a demo on how kickback might occur.
almost lost 2 fingers last week due to kickback. Wood flew back and smashed two fingers...
Oh no! I hope you're doing alright.
OK now... thanks...
Actually was almost 3 weeks ago. Kickback smashed my left hand index and middle finger and the ER doc had to superglue the tips because the kickback tore off some of the tips and wasn't anything there to stitch, Fractured both finger too...
Week later got staph infection that started travelling up my fingers and eating away quite a bit of flesh....multiple trips to ER for antibiotics and visits to hand surgeon.
Simple. Don't remove the safety equipment that comes with your saw so you can look cool.
Sometimes you buy a used saw that had it removed and lost by the previous owner.
17 people did not buy a Saw Stop.
Complete and total amateur noob here, but, wouldn't you avoid kickback by designing the saw to be fed with the blades rotation instead of against it?
The point of the video is to teach how kickback can occur.
No I know, and it's a well done video, I guess my question didn't make sense, probably due to my lack of knowledge, oh well,great channel!
if you try an feed the table saw from the other direction(with the blades rotation) it will pull the piece from your hands shooting it quite far i use to play with this as a kid. you don't want to have to power grip your piece to keep it feeding through the table saw. the downward moving front teeth help keep the piece secured to the table. Also I think it would splinter your wood seeing as how a table saw cuts from the bottom of a piece to the top, the excess would not have a place to go but up into the uncut piece if you feed it from the upward rising teeth edge. but that may just be nonsense speculation
I'm not suggesting not to use a splitter because I've seen some highly skilled cabinet makers lacking in table saw skill. Nothing beats understanding the nature of the saw and having an innate ability to be fully aware at every moment during a cut of what can go wrong and how to be in constant control of the material. I never used a splitter In my 35 plus years and hundreds of thousands of cuts if not more and being a guy who works fast.. I have never had a single kick back, burn or bind or close call. When I'm on that saw, I own it and I own the space around me. Don't get near me..No distractions...full concentration!!!
Who else is here because they got a board kick back at them?
safety guards !!!!!!! the machine comes with them for a reason. it doesnt matter how "good" you are or how "experienced" you are, your not good enough or experienced enough to take a board to the chest/stomach/face and be "good" afterwards. your going to "experience" extreme pain, and possible death.
My machine is my grandfather’s 1940s Beaver and it didn’t come with safety guards.