How to: Dodge Ram 1500 Upper Ball Joint Replacement
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- Опубліковано 3 жов 2024
- How to replace the upper ball joint on a third generation #DodgeRam. The truck I am working with here is a 2006 1500 4x4 model and it has the pressed in version. Depending on the severity of the ball joint, you may noticed clunking when driving, wandering, irregular tire wear, and in this case I can use a pry bar to demonstrate the play in the joint while the truck is still on the ground. #howto
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#OEMTOOLS dead blow hammer set: www.mobiledist...
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Tools/Supplies Needed:
-21mm socket
-22mm socket
-deadblow hammer
-ball joint separator
-1/2" drive ratchet
-johnson bar
-bal joint press
-new ball joint
-pliers
-jack and jack stands
-safety glasses
Procedure:
Elevate the vehicle, use a jack stand as a safety, and remove the wheel. Considering I used to control arm to jack up the truck, I took the weight off the suspension so the steering knuckle. This can be done without removing the control arm.
You may or may not have a cotter pin to remove. Using a 21mm socket and 1/2” ratchet, remove the nut. A johnson bar can be used for added leverage.
Due to the rubber boot, it can be a bit tough to push into place. Here I’m my OEMTOOLS dead blow hammer model number 25517. Once in place, make sure the lever on the bottom is in contact with the stud, then tighten the forcing bolt until the joint breaks free. Using snap ring pliers, remove the snap ring that holds the joint into place.
If you decide to remove the control, keep in mind that you’ll have to preload the rubber bushings on the frame mounting point. With my ball joint press, the fender liner does cut back on my workspace there isn’t enough room for the jackscrew. Unfortunately, my press doesn’t have the required adapters to position the jackscrew under the ball joint. Remove the 8mm bolts holding on the liner.
Push the liner in towards the engine, it’ll drop down, and then remove. The ball joint needs to be pushed up out of the top of the control arm to be removed and this can be seen by the flange on the top side. You’ll most likely need to remove the rubber boot on the ball joint so you can get the dies seats into place.
Pick the correct sized adapters, I’ll show you in a moment what the setups are required for the new ball joint. At the top, the sleeve needs to be large enough so the ball joint flange has a free space to move.
Apply oil to the jackscrew threads. Tighten the jackscrew and you’ll know right away when the ball joint is free. Remove the ball joint press and remove the ball joint. Clean up around the mounting surface and hole with a wire brush.
The ball joint now needs to be pushed into place, therefore it’ll need an installation sleeve or adapter which can push on the rear. On the opposite side, the ball joint needs clear space so it can freely move into position. This sleeve will only have contact on the control arm. I have one custom sleeve which I made from thick wall stainless steel tubing as I had clearance issues on a previous project and this can be used here too.
Make sure any dirt around the area is cleaned away, the grease and joint are exposed without the boot so you don’t want any contaminants getting in there. Put the ball joint into place. The press can’t open up wide enough, the ball joint will need to be started into the control arm. So I used the adapter on the top side, for now, to get it partly started. Then finish up with the sleeve and adapter.
Tighten the jackscrew, pushing the joint fully into place. The flange on the top of the ball joint assembly needs to be tight against the control arm. Using the correct sized sleeve, I pushed the boot into place.
Install the new snap ring. Angle the ball joint into the control arm, then jack up the steering knuckle to push everything into place. Pull down the control arm down, then start the castle nut.
Tighten the castle nut, the new nut requires a 22mm deep socket. The torque specification for the castle nut is 40ft lbs or 54nm. Align the slots of the castle nut with the hole, then insert the cotter pin and bend over the ends using pliers. Reinstall the wheel, the torque specifications for the 22mm lug nuts is 135 ft-lbs or 183 nm.
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© 4DIYers 2013
All Rights Reserved
No part of this video or any of its contents may be reproduced, copied, modified or adapted, without the prior written consent of the author.
Amazon links for the OTC Ball Joint Tool Kit which was used in the video:
USA: amzn.to/3pKYSkn
Canada: amzn.to/3rhTllI
Thank you. All of the other videos people just replace the upper arm, or the joint is in the spindle itself. Helped alot for my 2012 4Runner.
This Guy's wrenching in the snow..... must be Canadian. lol sure enough! Good video
What are you talking aboot?!
Nice video very straight to the point 😊
Thank you so much!
4DIYers, this is an AWESOME video!!! Thank you so very much!!!
Thank you so much!
Very helpful. This is my project coming up! Thanks
very clear and concise video！
Thank you!
Great explanation, thank you
You are welcome!
Good video, thanks for sharing man, take care.
Nailed it !
Great job
1:39, I tap on the upper control arm with a small hammer while simultaneously trying to spin the bolt on the separator. It’s tasking to look like a bear trying to do unnatural circus tricks but the vibration helps tremendously to assist on separating the arm from the knuckle
Are ball joints universal? I replaced uca's w aftermarket for lift n need replacing?
For the most part no . Some vehicle brands may use same part numbers but doesn’t happen often . If different vehicle types fit doesn’t mean they have correct vehicle rating. A 06 Durango matches up with Dakota’s on cv axles but not with the 1500 trucks 🤷🏻♂️ I found this out hoping I could use parts from Durango 😆
Great video!
Is the control arm aftermarket or stock?
Very nice
Thank you!
thanks
No problem!
Great video @4DIYers - I've seen other videos where they use the jack to support/push on the lower control arm to prevent the 'sudden release' of the upper ball joint due to the spring force... I noticed you lowered your jack on the lower control arm - is there a right/wrong way when it comes to supporting the lower control arm with the jack?
Thank you! I have seen others use the other method too. There really isn’t a right or wrong way. My method won’t cause any damage, the suspension on the road is exposed to a lot more force. I like my way because it allows the taper to break apart easier.
Roughly time frame it took you? I am very very nervous I might somehow fuck something up is it difficult for a newbie? I’ve done all the other work on my vehicles but never tried a ball joint
Do all 2006-2008 models have removable upper balljoints?
On the 1500 models yes, not sure about the 2500 or 3500.
Are you in Alaska? I'll supply a vehicle to work on and the parts and help film if you need more videos! Great video! (I've got a 2003 Dodge Ram I need to do this on).
What size is the new ball joint since no one carries them ?
@plasticstuntmancom no one sells them thats why I asked. Have to buy whole A Arm to replace
My truck need this is a 2005 dodge ram!
EXCELENTE, ORIENTACIÓN
If I don’t have balljoints tools can I still do it
Not sure where you live, but some areas offer a loan of tool program. Best to check with your local auto parts store.
I'm getting ready to remove the upper ball joint on a 2006 dodge ram 1500 4x4 4.7l here in the U.S. and after inspection, I do not see any snap ring on the bottom of the upper ball joint. I see a metal ring but it totally encircles the bottom of the ball joint. Not sure if that metal ring is actually the bottom of the ball joint.
The top of the upper ball joint however looks just like yours in the video.
Are these harder to get out? Can it be taken out?
Sounds like a retaining ring but another style. There should be an end which you can push off with a standard screwdriver and slowly work it out of the groove. They're a little harder to work with than a traditional snap ring.
You forgot to put your wheel well cover back on! 😅
Where did you purchase your ball joints
Rock Auto
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Steering knuckles have not been used on pickup trucks since the 1940s or 50s. That's called a spindle.
A spindle is what the wheel bearing and hub sit on.
That's why the parts places list them as a steering knuckle still right? 🤔🤔
And yet they are still listed as a steering knuckle... so your comment is useless...