Great video. I am experiencing the same problem on my 2003 Caldera Geneva model, which is super close to your Hawaiian model. Your tips have encouraged me to open up the panel and change out these two items without the cost of a service call.
@@SmokinwithKasket That job was a cinch! For my 2003 Caldera Geneva, I ordered the heater relay board (part # 77119) from HotTubSpaSupplies.com since the local Caldera parts house in San Diego was out of them and would have to order anyway. Didn't order the pressure switch (part 72717) this time, but located it inside the hottub cabinet in case that needs replacing in the future. I had the old model control box and the original heater relay board (which showed obvious signs of having burned up), so I had to trim the metal guard to provide clearance for the microchip on the new board, but that was easy and included in the step-by-step instructions. Instructions that came with the new relay board were clear, complete, and easy to follow. There was nothing that was difficult about this. Total cost for the fix was $140 for the part and the hottub is heating right up as I speak (type). Thanks again.
These videos are a great help to people trying to fix there own hot tubs. My hot tub electrics are all on one pcb and replacing the whole thing would of cost me £330. Where as replacing the relay that had gone bad only cost £5.
Thank you!!! Sitting in my repaired, hot spa now having replaced the heater relay board. Thank you google. Thank you UA-cam. Thank you amazon. Thank you random William on the Internet for posting this 👍🏻👍🏻
Good video, thank you. You should make one where you go through all the heating parts. I’m trying to find the high temp reset on my similar Caldera Spa. I have no green light on my board.
I have Tiger Siberian model L which looks to have the same board setup. I have a red blinking light at the top of the heater board you just changed out and the tub is not heating. The red call for heat light on the other board to the right is on though. Any thoughts?
Unplug all your peripheral devices except the heater and see if that corrects the issue. Also disconnect the heater and check the ohms to make sure your heater is not malfunctioning causing an error code on your control board. Then finally, make sure you’re really bored and control board are set for the proper voltage.
dude first off love the intro secondly you just saved me about $280 I replaced the heater thinking that was the problem then had a pro say it was the mother board and since it was so old I should just replace the who thing after I saw your video I checked my heating board with my multi-meter and sure enough nothing on one and 110 on the other I ordered the heater board it should come in around Saturday or next week (Alaska shipping) so thank you so much
Excellent. I am happy this helped you. I don't know how we all lived without UA-cam. Since I did that replacement / video, I haven't had any issues. Heats like crazy!!! Take a picture of your main feeds so you don't mix them up when replacing the new board. Let me know your back heating properly after the fix.
Hope you can help. We have a Martinique Paradise. Top side control panel is dead; does not light up at all. If I trip the breakers, hot tub goes through its cleaning cycle (jets come on, etc.), circulating pump runs, and hot tub warms up some. Have green lim light and red heater light on control board. However, top side control panel stays dead. I have removed the heater relay and controller boards. No visible signs of burned circuitry. Any ideas on how I might troubleshoot the issue?
Definitely sounds like a faulty control panel. I have heard of those failing. they are exposed to water and moisture even when the cover is in place. one tiny leak and it will fail over time. Let us know if you figured it out. Best-
Dim1 Swim Spa: Working on the 3 rd topside controller replacement on the spa side off a 2007 Dim1 Aqua 19 dual. Topside failed either the water condensation. I used the best silicone I could get and then it failed a second time. You kind of need it to work if your trouble shooting most issues on the spas. For the love of..... warm water, I will keep replacing them until we don't have to. Yeah right....Luv the tube she says, so will do my level best to keep the warm water flowing. Ha Ya
Did the board die again? Did you ever figure out why the board fried? I am concerned about replacing a $550 board without knowing why it fried. make: jacuzzi Model: j-355 Year: 2007
Thank you for watching and commenting. I did not figure out why the board fried. Most likely from a power surge or thunderstorm related I’m guessing. It’s been working great ever since I made this video with no issues at all. I have to say I don’t recall paying $550 for the board though I feel like it was more like, $200 to $300 at the most, but I’m sure prices have increased, especially with the pandemic.
@@SmokinwithKasket Thanks very much for responding. I have my fingers crossed while I replave it. I did notice that my tub was setup for 60 amps wen my breaker was only 50 amps but I cannot think of any reason that would cause a poblem.
@@lornehampel1330 unless it was tripping that shouldn’t be a problem with regards to the breaker. Chaperoned for that board I think you can find a cheaper one. I think I paid less than 300 for mine and I did order that online through Caldera Spa parts I believe.
So my hot springs hot tub sat unused for a few years and when I went to fill it up and use it a few months ago - it had a serious leak and no heat. I quickly realized it was the end cap on the heater that was leaking and ordered an entire new heating unit. got it today and installed it. Leak is gone and everything functions properly other than it doesn't seem to be heating. My boards look just like yours and my red heater light is on. What do you think the issue is? How long should a cold (winter) tub take to warm up even 10 degrees? I had it on and circulating for about an hour and felt no appreciably gain in temp
Did you check the voltage on both lugs of the heater? You should have 120 volts on both sides totaling 240 volts. It’s a slow go with cold water. When I change my water I notice it hears about one to two degrees per hour but slowly increases as the water warms. Let us know your outcome. Stay safe!
Hi there again, still trying to work out if my heater is needed replacing or not. Have the balboa system here in Sweden without the pressure switch. Has the sensors on either side. Hot tub down to only 17 degrees now, it has become cold minus 7. I don't know if there is some built-in freeze safeguard. I am guessing that the heat maintained is just coming from the pump. I have done some more tests today. There is power 230v going to the circuit board, but not 230v going to the element. I have done the continuity test or ohms test with the power turned off, with a multimeter put it on the 0L setting. It said 0 reading. Then l put it on a setting to bleep, not sure if it was the right setting, still was 0L and then it read 19 ish. Does this sound more like a relay problem or is there a possibility that it might still just need a new heater replacement? I am thinking if I did not have 230v going to the element, then a new one can not suddenly give 230vs or ??? No errors on the display panel either.
Hi Kevin. Love to know that you’re in Sweden, A place that I would definitely want to visit someday. It sounds to me like you need to replace your heater relay board. Replacing the heater wouldn’t solve the problem if you’re not getting 230 V to the heater which comes from the relay board. The other issue may be that the motherboard is not sending the signal to the relay heater board. But more than likely I’m guessing it is the relay board. Disassemble that relay board and remove it and see if there’s any signs of burning in the back of it as I demonstrated in my video showing the soot and the burning that took place. Let us know your findings. Thank you for watching and hopefully subscribing and we will be anxious to hear what you found. Please be careful poking around the components when they are energized. That is a lot of voltage and can be deadly! Stay safe my friend.
@@SmokinwithKasket thanks William, l am thinking the same. I will not yake out the circuit board until the spring its plus and minus at the moment . I just hope it holds at around 15 degrees until mid march. Thanks anyway
@@swedishkev I would highly recommend that you follow the manufactures recommendation for winterizing that hot tub. I always have bad luck. I wouldn’t trust that it won’t freeze. Let us know when you find out what the problem is. Thank you and have a safe winter.
Check out my mother board replacement video here: ua-cam.com/video/7yAntEABlbo/v-deo.html. Go to 9:43 and there will be an explanation which you can watch then determine what jumpers to use depending on which motherboard and which relay board you have.
HI again, I have got my balboa circuit board back from the repairers. It warms only to 29 degrees even if I have it set for 38 degrees. All relays have been changed. When I lowered the heat to 26, I see the temp light goes off. And I hear a small click. Then I put it back to 38 and get a small click. The heat light then flashes and then is steady after 90secs. but it is not going over 29 ? The fuses look fine, but the big main one is not glass, so would need to check that one. I checked the AC current on the element, with it all powered up, And it read nothing. is this strange or what? The element is warmish to touch not hot to burn yourself. I need to switch it off now to check, the ohms. just checked the ohms, around 18,9-19? What does this mean if it is not around 11 or 12? I don't know where the problem is, any ideas?
It really sounds like you’re not getting full 240 V to the heating element. I would check the continuity on that fuse that you cannot physically see. Your ohms is within range - 9 to 12 is ideal but 10 to 20 is not unusual either for some brands. I would be certain that the heater relay board is functioning properly. Is the heater relay board the one you sent for repair or the actual main board?
@@SmokinwithKasket Yes main board sent for the repair,replaced all the relays, they said one was really bad,so if that was the one for the element, I don't know. I have no 240 v at the element, checked the board where the 2 brass connections connect to the board,no 240v there either. The heating light shows a steady light , meaning it is heating, this to me seems only a relay problem again. When I take the heat down to 26 from the 28 now,I hear a click, the light goes off, when I put it up to 38 degrees, hear a click light flashes 90 seconds then becomes steady, showing heating. The main 30 amp fuse is the,9 years old. tested 0,1 So all seems normal, no-fault codes come on the screen either.
William been watching your awesome videos and learning a lot. I have one problem with my caldera heater 2003 is not heating I check it out by unplugging and reenergize the tub and the breaker did not trip out, do you think I have a bad heater.? And do you have any videos on this particular heater is the trombone style.
Hi. Thanks for watching and commenting. I do not have a video on the heater issue. You can easily disconnect the wires from the terminal and check the ohms and the (hopefully) lack of continuity between each post and the metal heater case. If I were checking the heater (I recommend you have a professional do this test), I would replace the wires and energize the heater (by raising the temperature) and check for voltage leaking between each post and the case / ground. I would use extreme caution as the heater is 240 volts!!!
I had the same issue on a Caldera Geneva. I spoke with a local repair shop and they said it's a common issue. I replaced my relay board pretty cheaply and also the pressure switch. The gentleman there also mentioned that could have been the issue. For 25 for the pressure switch might as well do it especially when it's rusty!
Check your relay board voltage and be sure that the relay board voltage is set properly to the control board. Also, there is a chance that the control board could be faulty even though you just replaced it.
Thank you very much. I have a Caldera Martinique (Paradise series) that experienced the same situation as yours. Thanks to your instructions I discovered the exact trouble shooting results of yours were the same as mine. I noticed there are wiring differences from the old board to the new. Are the differences in wiring easy to figure out? Also, do you recommend a good place to purchase this part? Thank you again.
I hear you loud and clear!!! So far so good. I expect a pump issue sometime. They are the originals I believe. Once pipe unions start failing after the first or second event, then I will be shopping for a new one. Nothing lasts forever :(
I work on spas and I can tell you this is a fairly common issue with calderas. I believe it's an issue with the relays just getting weak due to kicking on and off all the time. You can actually de-solder those relays and put new ones in and it will work just fine.
I had a hunch it could be the relays. The new board was definitely updated or upgraded (improved) so I’m hoping this won’t be a problem again anytime soon.
I have the same burnt pad on the circuit board of my Masterspa model. Luckily, the relay was easy to source. It arrives Monday (about $19 from Amazon delivered) and I will repair the circuit board (I have lots of experience from my audio repair tech days) and we will see how it goes. It just seems criminal to replace the entire circuit board ($440 from the authorized source) or the entire heater/control assembly for $500 when it might only be a bad relay.
The relay circuit board shouldn’t cost $300 to $400. I didn’t pay anything near that. Most people don’t have the skills to desolder a part then replace and resolder. Hopefully that will work for you. Keep us posted.
@@SmokinwithKasket - I just discovered that my trusty Weller soldering station doesn’t get hot enough to melt the solder. So I dug out my old Weller soldering gun and discovered that *it* isn’t hot enough either. Tomorrow, I’ll try the butane torch on it.
Hey Paul, looks like you may need to reset the temp switch. It appears that the board is not sending the signal to activate the heater. There may be more going on here. Try cutting the power off for a few minutes then rebooting.
Thanks for the video. Found burned spots on the back of my board. Got the replacement part. BUT new board is slightly different in the lower left hand corner. The wires attached to the old board with a slot type fitting plus the ground. The new board has a grey plastic piece instead. Your old and new board seem to look different as well but I can't tell where the white wires reattaches to the new board in your video. So my question is, regarding the three wires in the lower left corner, is it necessary to snip the fittings off the ends of the positive and negative wires, and then where exactly does the positive attach to the new board? Thanks again!
LOL, I see now, there are receivers for SIX wires on the new board, and one of those is the positive wire connection I"m looking for. You touch it with your multimeter.
Eileen Napier yes And one of those receivers is for the white wire for the heater element. Glad you figured it out just reading your comment I was suspecting that you ordered the wrong part. Let us know how it worked out once you got it installed. Make sure that you have the correct voltage set for your motherboard before you powered up. If you’re not sure, I just published a new video a few weeks ago on replacing the motherboard. Watch that video to be sure you have the correct voltage set on your relay board. I outlined that in my most recent video a few weeks ago.
It’s in the video I published a couple weeks ago it’s very close to the top of my video list I just did it a couple of weeks ago on replacing the motherboard and in that video I explain all about the relay board and how to set the voltage.
@@SmokinwithKasket Found it! I definitely needed to change mine to 18 volt. Thanks for the tip. Here's the link to your new video to help the next person out. ua-cam.com/video/7yAntEABlbo/v-deo.html So helpful. Will have to check out meat smoking videos next. Thanks again!
Master spa 557LSX. 2010. Bought new 8/12. I have a warm temp light but won’t heat over 70 or so. Jets and pumps (3) operate as expected. Any advice? Not sure if this model has a high limit switch.
Check the heating element to be sure it is getting full power. This model should have a high limit switch although I don't think that is your problem here. I feel like your heater is not functioning properly.
Thanks. I had a MSP tech out yesterday. It’s the circuit board and circa pump. He did install a new sensor $67 Bc it was warped or “chewed “. I have not ordered the 2 new parts yet or authorized the technician to return - the quote was around 780 parts:labor. What is your advice sir? 3307705840
@@christie8530 If it were me, I would order the parts and install myself. The tech. did the hard part for you - he/she diagnosed the problem. I would order the recirc. pump first, install and see what happens. This is an easy installation and they do have a life expectancy. I recently had to replace mine as well. It may be that the pump is not allowing enough water to circulate thus not heating or heater is overheating and intermittently shutting off. The circuit board, most expensive part can be unplugged and the new plugged in. Its definitely something you can do yourself.
Great video! I have a Caldera Hawaiin as you repair in this video. My heater breaker trips intermittently...meaning it will heat for days just fine, or sometimes just for a few hours before it trips. The pump breaker never trips. Your thoughts? Controller board, heater or pressure switch? Any advice on where to start is appreciated!
Check the heater element ohms. I think you may have a failing Heater. I’m not sure what the ohm range should be at the moment but you could easily find that spec. Let us know what you found. If I can locate the specs for the heater ohms I’ll add to this thread. Keep in touch. Best-
I have a Caldera Elation that is not heating. I do not have a multimeter handy, but the heater control board you speak of shows some discoloring between the relays. All indicators point to the heater board. Where did you get yours? Is there a part number? It look identical to mine. Thank you so much!
OK. It looks like 77119. Formerly 74618. Hopefully this does the trick! I do not want to rip this one apart until the new one is here. Thanks for the informational video!
Oh good. You best me to the part number. Yeah sounds exactly what happened to me in this video. Good plan to keep old one on while waiting for new board. Especially if you live in freezing temps like I do here in southeast lower Michigan. Best of luck.
I fixed mine two months ago with no parts!! The problem is that the pc burned because it needs more conductor in that area. If you can solder and drill creatively, it's possible.
Just wanted to drop a line to THANK YOU for the tutorial! I ended up not having to replace any parts, but during the process of using your troubleshooting steps, I found a loose connection between the two control boards. At first I couldn't figure out why I couldn't register a reading between the two hot legs (and didn't have a burned resistor), but when I put them back in the control box, I realized that the pins from the mother board were not fully engaged with the heater control board. It probably happened when the tub was moved to my house from a friend's or possible when the electrician hooked it up. Nevertheless, I was at 67° yesterday and 103° this morning! This is a 2004 Utopia Niagara model. Thanks again! And, happy smoking!!!
Hi Jim. Great to hear you were able to locate that problem. You may have saved other components from being damaged by the loos e control board. Usually its never that easy. Glad the video was of some assistance. Mine is chugging along without any issues so far. I am very happy with Caldera. The quality and workmanship seems to be very high. Thank you for your support with my channel. Please subscribe if you haven't already. All the Best-
@@SmokinwithKasket ugggg, back to square one. My spa started losing temp on Saturday! How long have you had the "new" heater board? I'm asking because mine has that new style (i had the same burnt soot behind the board when I took it off to inspect, but it's not on my board). I'm wondering if it's gone bad already because I'm not reading voltage between the two hot legs again. I hate to throw parts at a problem as a means to troubleshoot, especially at the price of these non-returnable parts!
Really excellent video. I did similar trouble shooting and using multi-meter found my control board seemed OK -- removed it just to check for any burned spots and didn't find any. I figured out the circulator pump was bad -- it was very hot, and although not obvious, turned out to not be moving water. And, circulator not flowing water through heater it won't work (blinking "heat" on panel). Pump was $180 online and $200 at my neighborhood store .. being a bit impulsive I went and got it, put it in and all's good. Thanks again for educational and helpful video. Next one will be about smoking brisket right?
Thank you so much for your positive feedback. I do appreciate it. I always worry about that circulation pump of mine, especially it failing in the dead of winter. Seems like I saw them priced around $120.00 though. Yeah. Smokin vids coming soon with the seasoning of my new UDS. Looking forward to doing ribs and turkey legs with the Ugly Drum Smoker. A brisket video is a must as well. Happy Summer!!! If your in the northern hemisphere that is.
Thanks so much! I took my control board off to find it had a burnt spot just like yours. Going to replace it. Where did you order yours from. Mine is a caldera paradise series as well.
So my hot tub is not heating up I've replaced the heating element and the water pressure switch. The element is geting 120v into it but it's not heating up
Just don’t want to mess anything up I have the old panel with 3 fuses and it seems like they have updated it with the 2 fuse panel. Wish I could send a photo
@@SmokinwithKasketI have wires on 1,h1,2,3 and the common or hot on 5… nothing on 4. My original heater board had a jumper on 4/5… I’m confused with the newer board. Will I need any jumpers for that one? Everything is working, water gets hot now, but my jet pump stopped working all a sudden. I test voltage on the black/white wire where it plugs into the board. I hit the jet button, the red light lights up and I’m showing 120V but pump doesn’t turn on for the jets… it was JUST working b4 i replaced the heater board. Don’t see why it would just go out :/ why I feel like it has something to do with a jumper.. am I missing something?
@@rickbaldwin5042 if your getting 120 volts to jet pump it seems it’s getting power. Could be the pump motor. Possibly the starting capacitor took a dump. Everything seems good from your description. Check the motor.
Last winter in December I was gonna go in my hot tub and it was 37 Fahrenheit because my heater was not working so search for this video I waited until May 25 I fixed and then it worked again it when up to 102 Fahrenheit which is what it’s set at
Probly the reason the circuit board burned is because the solder joint on the relay developed a crack and started arcing, it probly could be repaired by cleaning the circuit board and resoldering the connection.
Good point Bob. That sure could have been a possibility. I tossed the old board though. Prolly should have experimented with it and possibly made a spare.
@@VertigoGTI - Thank you for that offer. Thats very kind!!! However, I will pass. I have plenty of things to fix and work on at the house. LOL No tinkering time at all!!! So far, my replacement board is working great to date. All the Best my friend.
@@SmokinwithKasket I need some help ! My heater relay board has failed mine also is a 240 when you install the new board I could not tail what you did with the wire that is currently in the H1 position ! U was saying that the new heater relay board only has three wires which one plugs into the H 1 in the big gray connection can you please reply!
I have a Tiger River spa 240 has u was saying it has two breakers and the breakers all the connections in the gray connector all the holes r full of wires from the breakers!
Good question Dave. Not really sure why components fail for no apparent reason. Could have been a fluttering relay due to a faulty pressure switch causing heat build up. Relay switches are mechanical so that may have played a roll. All mechanical devices eventually will wear and fail. The new replacement board is an updated version and is expected to last longer per the manufacturer.
Could be a number of issues. Check and make sure your circulation pump is running. Check your relay board for burnt solders or relays. Check your pressure switch. Lastly check with a meter to see if your heating element is getting full power (240 volts). Other problems could be the control board. But most likely the first few items I listed. Good luck.
William Kasper so why are here at this video? Did your relay board burn out?if so how much did it coast to fix it?hot springs aka Watson has developed there own part line.unlike all the other tubs on the market.so they are heck to work on and costly to repair.i know because I service them.and don't ever get any freeze damage you will be screwed.
If I remember correctly the new board was about $120.00 U.S. dollars. Other than that it’s been a great tub. And we get very cold winters here in southeast lower MIchigan.
Hot Tub Mother Board problems? Watch this: ua-cam.com/video/7yAntEABlbo/v-deo.html
Thanks for putting this together! I am happy to tell you it's still proving help and insight 9 years later! You rock!
So awesome to hear!!! Thank you for watching and commenting. Warm wishes!
Great video. I am experiencing the same problem on my 2003 Caldera Geneva model, which is super close to your Hawaiian model. Your tips have encouraged me to open up the panel and change out these two items without the cost of a service call.
Awesome. Let us know the outcome. Cut the power (Both breakers) before servicing. PLEASE!
@@SmokinwithKasket That job was a cinch! For my 2003 Caldera Geneva, I ordered the heater relay board (part # 77119) from HotTubSpaSupplies.com since the local Caldera parts house in San Diego was out of them and would have to order anyway. Didn't order the pressure switch (part 72717) this time, but located it inside the hottub cabinet in case that needs replacing in the future. I had the old model control box and the original heater relay board (which showed obvious signs of having burned up), so I had to trim the metal guard to provide clearance for the microchip on the new board, but that was easy and included in the step-by-step instructions. Instructions that came with the new relay board were clear, complete, and easy to follow. There was nothing that was difficult about this. Total cost for the fix was $140 for the part and the hottub is heating right up as I speak (type). Thanks again.
These videos are a great help to people trying to fix there own hot tubs. My hot tub electrics are all on one pcb and replacing the whole thing would of cost me £330. Where as replacing the relay that had gone bad only cost £5.
Glad this was helpful for you. Stay safe and healthy.
Thank you!!! Sitting in my repaired, hot spa now having replaced the heater relay board. Thank you google. Thank you UA-cam. Thank you amazon. Thank you random William on the Internet for posting this 👍🏻👍🏻
Katie DiSimone - Great to hear this helped. Thank you Katie.
Good video, thank you. You should make one where you go through all the heating parts. I’m trying to find the high temp reset on my similar Caldera Spa. I have no green light on my board.
Thank you Eddie. Sounds like there’s an issue with the main board. If you find a way to reset please let me know. Thank you -
I have Tiger Siberian model L which looks to have the same board setup. I have a red blinking light at the top of the heater board you just changed out and the tub is not heating. The red call for heat light on the other board to the right is on though. Any thoughts?
Unplug all your peripheral devices except the heater and see if that corrects the issue. Also disconnect the heater and check the ohms to make sure your heater is not malfunctioning causing an error code on your control board. Then finally, make sure you’re really bored and control board are set for the proper voltage.
dude first off love the intro secondly you just saved me about $280 I replaced the heater thinking that was the problem then had a pro say it was the mother board and since it was so old I should just replace the who thing after I saw your video I checked my heating board with my multi-meter and sure enough nothing on one and 110 on the other I ordered the heater board it should come in around Saturday or next week (Alaska shipping) so thank you so much
Excellent. I am happy this helped you. I don't know how we all lived without UA-cam. Since I did that replacement / video, I haven't had any issues. Heats like crazy!!! Take a picture of your main feeds so you don't mix them up when replacing the new board. Let me know your back heating properly after the fix.
Hope you can help. We have a Martinique Paradise. Top side control panel is dead; does not light up at all. If I trip the breakers, hot tub goes through its cleaning cycle (jets come on, etc.), circulating pump runs, and hot tub warms up some. Have green lim light and red heater light on control board. However, top side control panel stays dead. I have removed the heater relay and controller boards. No visible signs of burned circuitry. Any ideas on how I might troubleshoot the issue?
Definitely sounds like a faulty control panel. I have heard of those failing. they are exposed to water and moisture even when the cover is in place. one tiny leak and it will fail over time. Let us know if you figured it out. Best-
Replacing the topside controller did the trick.
Dim1 Swim Spa: Working on the 3 rd topside controller replacement on the spa side off a 2007 Dim1 Aqua 19 dual. Topside failed either the water condensation. I used the best silicone I could get and then it failed a second time. You kind of need it to work if your trouble shooting most issues on the spas. For the love of..... warm water, I will keep replacing them until we don't have to. Yeah right....Luv the tube she says, so will do my level best to keep the warm water flowing. Ha Ya
Did the board die again? Did you ever figure out why the board fried? I am concerned about replacing a $550 board without knowing why it fried.
make: jacuzzi
Model: j-355
Year: 2007
Thank you for watching and commenting. I did not figure out why the board fried. Most likely from a power surge or thunderstorm related I’m guessing. It’s been working great ever since I made this video with no issues at all. I have to say I don’t recall paying $550 for the board though I feel like it was more like, $200 to $300 at the most, but I’m sure prices have increased, especially with the pandemic.
@@SmokinwithKasket Thanks very much for responding. I have my fingers crossed while I replave it. I did notice that my tub was setup for 60 amps wen my breaker was only 50 amps but I cannot think of any reason that would cause a poblem.
@@lornehampel1330 unless it was tripping that shouldn’t be a problem with regards to the breaker. Chaperoned for that board I think you can find a cheaper one. I think I paid less than 300 for mine and I did order that online through Caldera Spa parts I believe.
Be sure to update with your make model and year. Check this link out: www.hottubspasupplies.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=Main%20board
@withKasket Update my post with make, model, year but the link doesn't work.
So my hot springs hot tub sat unused for a few years and when I went to fill it up and use it a few months ago - it had a serious leak and no heat. I quickly realized it was the end cap on the heater that was leaking and ordered an entire new heating unit. got it today and installed it. Leak is gone and everything functions properly other than it doesn't seem to be heating. My boards look just like yours and my red heater light is on. What do you think the issue is? How long should a cold (winter) tub take to warm up even 10 degrees? I had it on and circulating for about an hour and felt no appreciably gain in temp
Did you check the voltage on both lugs of the heater? You should have 120 volts on both sides totaling 240 volts. It’s a slow go with cold water. When I change my water I notice it hears about one to two degrees per hour but slowly increases as the water warms. Let us know your outcome. Stay safe!
Hi there again, still trying to work out if my heater is needed replacing or not. Have the balboa system here in Sweden without the pressure switch. Has the sensors on either side. Hot tub down to only 17 degrees now, it has become cold minus 7. I don't know if there is some built-in freeze safeguard. I am guessing that the heat maintained is just coming from the pump. I have done some more tests today. There is power 230v going to the circuit board, but not 230v going to the element. I have done the continuity test or ohms test with the power turned off, with a multimeter put it on the 0L setting. It said 0 reading. Then l put it on a setting to bleep, not sure if it was the right setting, still was 0L and then it read 19 ish. Does this sound more like a relay problem or is there a possibility that it might still just need a new heater replacement? I am thinking if I did not have 230v going to the element, then a new one can not suddenly give 230vs or ??? No errors on the display panel either.
Hi Kevin. Love to know that you’re in Sweden, A place that I would definitely want to visit someday. It sounds to me like you need to replace your heater relay board. Replacing the heater wouldn’t solve the problem if you’re not getting 230 V to the heater which comes from the relay board. The other issue may be that the motherboard is not sending the signal to the relay heater board. But more than likely I’m guessing it is the relay board. Disassemble that relay board and remove it and see if there’s any signs of burning in the back of it as I demonstrated in my video showing the soot and the burning that took place. Let us know your findings. Thank you for watching and hopefully subscribing and we will be anxious to hear what you found. Please be careful poking around the components when they are energized. That is a lot of voltage and can be deadly! Stay safe my friend.
@@SmokinwithKasket thanks William, l am thinking the same. I will not yake out the circuit board until the spring its plus and minus at the moment . I just hope it holds at around 15 degrees until mid march. Thanks anyway
@@swedishkev I would highly recommend that you follow the manufactures recommendation for winterizing that hot tub. I always have bad luck. I wouldn’t trust that it won’t freeze. Let us know when you find out what the problem is. Thank you and have a safe winter.
How did you do your jumpers you skip that part
Check out my mother board replacement video here: ua-cam.com/video/7yAntEABlbo/v-deo.html. Go to 9:43 and there will be an explanation which you can watch then determine what jumpers to use depending on which motherboard and which relay board you have.
HI again, I have got my balboa circuit board back from the repairers. It warms only to 29 degrees even if I have it set for 38 degrees. All relays have been changed. When I lowered the heat to 26, I see the temp light goes off. And I hear a small click. Then I put it back to 38 and get a small click. The heat light then flashes and then is steady after 90secs. but it is not going over 29 ? The fuses look fine, but the big main one is not glass, so would need to check that one. I checked the AC current on the element, with it all powered up, And it read nothing. is this strange or what? The element is warmish to touch not hot to burn yourself. I need to switch it off now to check, the ohms. just checked the ohms, around 18,9-19? What does this mean if it is not around 11 or 12? I don't know where the problem is, any ideas?
It really sounds like you’re not getting full 240 V to the heating element. I would check the continuity on that fuse that you cannot physically see. Your ohms is within range - 9 to 12 is ideal but 10 to 20 is not unusual either for some brands. I would be certain that the heater relay board is functioning properly. Is the heater relay board the one you sent for repair or the actual main board?
@@SmokinwithKasket Yes main board sent for the repair,replaced all the relays, they said one was really bad,so if that was the one for the element, I don't know. I have no 240 v at the element, checked the board where the 2 brass connections connect to the board,no 240v there either. The heating light shows a steady light , meaning it is heating, this to me seems only a relay problem again. When I take the heat down to 26 from the 28 now,I hear a click, the light goes off, when I put it up to 38 degrees, hear a click light flashes 90 seconds then becomes steady, showing heating. The main 30 amp fuse is the,9 years old. tested 0,1 So all seems normal, no-fault codes come on the screen either.
You don’t think it could be your relay board? The secondary small board? I still feel there’s a relay issue.
@@SmokinwithKasket there is only one main board.
@@SmokinwithKasket the main fuse was 0,1 but this would be only to do with the pump, no. Pump is new and runs normal
William been watching your awesome videos and learning a lot. I have one problem with my caldera heater 2003 is not heating I check it out by unplugging and reenergize the tub and the breaker did not trip out, do you think I have a bad heater.? And do you have any videos on this particular heater is the trombone style.
Hi. Thanks for watching and commenting. I do not have a video on the heater issue. You can easily disconnect the wires from the terminal and check the ohms and the (hopefully) lack of continuity between each post and the metal heater case. If I were checking the heater (I recommend you have a professional do this test), I would replace the wires and energize the heater (by raising the temperature) and check for voltage leaking between each post and the case / ground. I would use extreme caution as the heater is 240 volts!!!
I have a 2 pump River Ridge Spa.... also, won't heat up past 96 degrees. Where did you get the replacement board?
Hope u changed it out with the newer version of the old board??
I sure did. This is the upgraded board.
I had the same issue on a Caldera Geneva. I spoke with a local repair shop and they said it's a common issue. I replaced my relay board pretty cheaply and also the pressure switch. The gentleman there also mentioned that could have been the issue. For 25 for the pressure switch might as well do it especially when it's rusty!
Glad you fixed it. The new replacement board is also an upgrade they say, that will eliminate the issue of the relay(s) burning in the future.
How much was the heat control board?
If I recall correctly, it was approximately $160.
hello i have the same one and the D17 light is coming up every time I'm pressed on any advice??
Check your relay board voltage and be sure that the relay board voltage is set properly to the control board. Also, there is a chance that the control board could be faulty even though you just replaced it.
Thank you very much.
I have a Caldera Martinique (Paradise series) that experienced the same situation as yours. Thanks to your instructions I discovered the exact trouble shooting results of yours were the same as mine. I noticed there are wiring differences from the old board to the new. Are the differences in wiring easy to figure out? Also, do you recommend a good place to purchase this part? Thank you again.
next on the list will be pump seal leak then unglued pipe unions. Enjoy the journey & fun learning curve 👍🏻
I hear you loud and clear!!! So far so good. I expect a pump issue sometime. They are the originals I believe. Once pipe unions start failing after the first or second event, then I will be shopping for a new one. Nothing lasts forever :(
I work on spas and I can tell you this is a fairly common issue with calderas. I believe it's an issue with the relays just getting weak due to kicking on and off all the time. You can actually de-solder those relays and put new ones in and it will work just fine.
I had a hunch it could be the relays. The new board was definitely updated or upgraded (improved) so I’m hoping this won’t be a problem again anytime soon.
I have the same burnt pad on the circuit board of my Masterspa model. Luckily, the relay was easy to source. It arrives Monday (about $19 from Amazon delivered) and I will repair the circuit board (I have lots of experience from my audio repair tech days) and we will see how it goes.
It just seems criminal to replace the entire circuit board ($440 from the authorized source) or the entire heater/control assembly for $500 when it might only be a bad relay.
The relay circuit board shouldn’t cost $300 to $400. I didn’t pay anything near that. Most people don’t have the skills to desolder a part then replace and resolder. Hopefully that will work for you. Keep us posted.
@@SmokinwithKasket - I just discovered that my trusty Weller soldering station doesn’t get hot enough to melt the solder. So I dug out my old Weller soldering gun and discovered that *it* isn’t hot enough either. Tomorrow, I’ll try the butane torch on it.
@@SmokinwithKasket - Do you have any recommendations for how to desolder the relay?
I’ve got a green LIM light and no red heater light. Hot tub is staying about 92. Should I reset my high temp reset switch? Caldera Geneva
Hey Paul, looks like you may need to reset the temp switch. It appears that the board is not sending the signal to activate the heater. There may be more going on here. Try cutting the power off for a few minutes then rebooting.
Thanks for the video. Found burned spots on the back of my board. Got the replacement part. BUT new board is slightly different in the lower left hand corner. The wires attached to the old board with a slot type fitting plus the ground. The new board has a grey plastic piece instead. Your old and new board seem to look different as well but I can't tell where the white wires reattaches to the new board in your video. So my question is, regarding the three wires in the lower left corner, is it necessary to snip the fittings off the ends of the positive and negative wires, and then where exactly does the positive attach to the new board? Thanks again!
LOL, I see now, there are receivers for SIX wires on the new board, and one of those is the positive wire connection I"m looking for. You touch it with your multimeter.
Eileen Napier yes And one of those receivers is for the white wire for the heater element. Glad you figured it out just reading your comment I was suspecting that you ordered the wrong part. Let us know how it worked out once you got it installed. Make sure that you have the correct voltage set for your motherboard before you powered up. If you’re not sure, I just published a new video a few weeks ago on replacing the motherboard. Watch that video to be sure you have the correct voltage set on your relay board. I outlined that in my most recent video a few weeks ago.
@@SmokinwithKasket Was that in the video? I don't know where to adjust the voltage setting?
It’s in the video I published a couple weeks ago it’s very close to the top of my video list I just did it a couple of weeks ago on replacing the motherboard and in that video I explain all about the relay board and how to set the voltage.
@@SmokinwithKasket Found it! I definitely needed to change mine to 18 volt. Thanks for the tip. Here's the link to your new video to help the next person out. ua-cam.com/video/7yAntEABlbo/v-deo.html So helpful. Will have to check out meat smoking videos next. Thanks again!
Master spa 557LSX. 2010. Bought new 8/12. I have a warm temp light but won’t heat over 70 or so. Jets and pumps (3) operate as expected. Any advice? Not sure if this model has a high limit switch.
Check the heating element to be sure it is getting full power. This model should have a high limit switch although I don't think that is your problem here. I feel like your heater is not functioning properly.
Thanks. I had a MSP tech out yesterday. It’s the circuit board and circa pump. He did install a new sensor $67 Bc it was warped or “chewed “. I have not ordered the 2 new parts yet or authorized the technician to return - the quote was around 780 parts:labor. What is your advice sir? 3307705840
William Kasper tech said heater tube is fine.
@@christie8530 If it were me, I would order the parts and install myself. The tech. did the hard part for you - he/she diagnosed the problem. I would order the recirc. pump first, install and see what happens. This is an easy installation and they do have a life expectancy. I recently had to replace mine as well. It may be that the pump is not allowing enough water to circulate thus not heating or heater is overheating and intermittently shutting off. The circuit board, most expensive part can be unplugged and the new plugged in. Its definitely something you can do yourself.
Great video! I have a Caldera Hawaiin as you repair in this video. My heater breaker trips intermittently...meaning it will heat for days just fine, or sometimes just for a few hours before it trips. The pump breaker never trips. Your thoughts? Controller board, heater or pressure switch? Any advice on where to start is appreciated!
Check the heater element ohms. I think you may have a failing Heater. I’m not sure what the ohm range should be at the moment but you could easily find that spec. Let us know what you found. If I can locate the specs for the heater ohms I’ll add to this thread. Keep in touch. Best-
This should be the correct answer:
Draw 15-25 amps at 240v
A measurement of 9-12 Ohms of resistance usually indicates a good element.
I have a Caldera Elation that is not heating. I do not have a multimeter handy, but the heater control board you speak of shows some discoloring between the relays. All indicators point to the heater board. Where did you get yours? Is there a part number? It look identical to mine. Thank you so much!
OK. It looks like 77119. Formerly 74618. Hopefully this does the trick! I do not want to rip this one apart until the new one is here. Thanks for the informational video!
Oh good. You best me to the part number. Yeah sounds exactly what happened to me in this video. Good plan to keep old one on while waiting for new board. Especially if you live in freezing temps like I do here in southeast lower Michigan. Best of luck.
I fixed mine two months ago with no parts!! The problem is that the pc burned because it needs more conductor in that area. If you can solder and drill creatively, it's possible.
Just wanted to drop a line to THANK YOU for the tutorial! I ended up not having to replace any parts, but during the process of using your troubleshooting steps, I found a loose connection between the two control boards. At first I couldn't figure out why I couldn't register a reading between the two hot legs (and didn't have a burned resistor), but when I put them back in the control box, I realized that the pins from the mother board were not fully engaged with the heater control board. It probably happened when the tub was moved to my house from a friend's or possible when the electrician hooked it up. Nevertheless, I was at 67° yesterday and 103° this morning! This is a 2004 Utopia Niagara model. Thanks again! And, happy smoking!!!
Hi Jim. Great to hear you were able to locate that problem. You may have saved other components from being damaged by the loos e control board. Usually its never that easy. Glad the video was of some assistance. Mine is chugging along without any issues so far. I am very happy with Caldera. The quality and workmanship seems to be very high. Thank you for your support with my channel. Please subscribe if you haven't already. All the Best-
@@SmokinwithKasket ugggg, back to square one. My spa started losing temp on Saturday! How long have you had the "new" heater board? I'm asking because mine has that new style (i had the same burnt soot behind the board when I took it off to inspect, but it's not on my board). I'm wondering if it's gone bad already because I'm not reading voltage between the two hot legs again. I hate to throw parts at a problem as a means to troubleshoot, especially at the price of these non-returnable parts!
Do you have a part number for this exact relay board? I am having trouble finding it online. Your video was very helpful. Thanks!
Here it is: Watkins, Caldera, Hot Spring, & Tiger River - IQ 2020 Heater Relay Board w/ Jumpers - 77119.
SKU 74618-77119
Should run about $150.00
Really excellent video. I did similar trouble shooting and using multi-meter found my control board seemed OK -- removed it just to check for any burned spots and didn't find any. I figured out the circulator pump was bad -- it was very hot, and although not obvious, turned out to not be moving water. And, circulator not flowing water through heater it won't work (blinking "heat" on panel). Pump was $180 online and $200 at my neighborhood store .. being a bit impulsive I went and got it, put it in and all's good. Thanks again for educational and helpful video. Next one will be about smoking brisket right?
Thank you so much for your positive feedback. I do appreciate it. I always worry about that circulation pump of mine, especially it failing in the dead of winter. Seems like I saw them priced around $120.00 though.
Yeah. Smokin vids coming soon with the seasoning of my new UDS. Looking forward to doing ribs and turkey legs with the Ugly Drum Smoker. A brisket video is a must as well.
Happy Summer!!! If your in the northern hemisphere that is.
Thanks so much! I took my control board off to find it had a burnt spot just like yours. Going to replace it. Where did you order yours from. Mine is a caldera paradise series as well.
a very common problem in this model for the heater board to go bad or relay to go bad.
if you replace the board you can get a gfci tripping after. this can be a condition of a bad element as well.
Great tip. Thank you.
where did you find that gazebo over your tub??
alien4fish - That came from Lowes. Comes with the sun shade.
@@SmokinwithKasket awesome Thank You!!
Good job.
Thank you for watching. Hope this video was was helpful.
So my hot tub is not heating up I've replaced the heating element and the water pressure switch. The element is geting 120v into it but it's not heating up
You should be getting 220 volts. You are losing power and its more than likely the power board circuit.
dont need any jumpers?
No. Jumpers are provided and preset.
@@SmokinwithKasket ok so even if the D1 is in the row of wires I wont need any jumpers with my 240V system?
Just don’t want to mess anything up I have the old panel with 3 fuses and it seems like they have updated it with the 2 fuse panel. Wish I could send a photo
@@SmokinwithKasketI have wires on 1,h1,2,3 and the common or hot on 5… nothing on 4. My original heater board had a jumper on 4/5… I’m confused with the newer board. Will I need any jumpers for that one? Everything is working, water gets hot now, but my jet pump stopped working all a sudden. I test voltage on the black/white wire where it plugs into the board. I hit the jet button, the red light lights up and I’m showing 120V but pump doesn’t turn on for the jets… it was JUST working b4 i replaced the heater board. Don’t see why it would just go out :/ why I feel like it has something to do with a jumper.. am I missing something?
@@rickbaldwin5042 if your getting 120 volts to jet pump it seems it’s getting power. Could be the pump motor. Possibly the starting capacitor took a dump.
Everything seems good from your description. Check the motor.
Last winter in December I was gonna go in my hot tub and it was 37 Fahrenheit because my heater was not working so search for this video I waited until May 25 I fixed and then it worked again it when up to 102 Fahrenheit which is what it’s set at
Can you provide the serial number, I couldn't find it on my board
The updated replacement is Caldera Spa Heater Relay Board 2002 - 2009 #77119 - Caldera Spa Parts Plus
Yes it did help, thank you.
Great to hear. Thanks for wathcing.
I used to be a tv repairman and saw that happen many times
The main control board is exactly the same as our Hotsprings Sovereign (the control board died but the heater relay was fine)
What did you end up paying to replace the main control board? I figured that other spa makers use the same components.
William Kasper We payed £380 or $390 for the brand new control board and it seems to be working great so far
William Kasper I put a video of it on my channel its called "Is The Hot tub Broken?"
@@alex-k2h6g Just looked for your video and it appears to be gone. I'm worried that this is the issue I'm getting.
Probly the reason the circuit board burned is because the solder joint on the relay developed a crack and started arcing, it probly could be repaired by cleaning the circuit board and resoldering the connection.
Good point Bob. That sure could have been a possibility. I tossed the old board though. Prolly should have experimented with it and possibly made a spare.
@@SmokinwithKasket If you like, I can send you the one I'm replacing.
@@VertigoGTI - Thank you for that offer. Thats very kind!!! However, I will pass. I have plenty of things to fix and work on at the house. LOL No tinkering time at all!!! So far, my replacement board is working great to date. All the Best my friend.
@@SmokinwithKasket I need some help ! My heater relay board has failed mine also is a 240 when you install the new board I could not tail what you did with the wire that is currently in the H1 position ! U was saying that the new heater relay board only has three wires which one plugs into the H 1 in the big gray connection can you please reply!
I have a Tiger River spa 240 has u was saying it has two breakers and the breakers all the connections in the gray connector all the holes r full of wires from the breakers!
Great video. Thanks.
Thank you for watching. Appreciate the positive comments. Stay safe and healthy.
6 months old and no warranty?
was purchased used on Craig’s List.
My question would be "What caused it to burn out ! will it do it to the new one " ??? I always want to know WHAT CAUSED IT TO GO BAD !!!!
Good question Dave. Not really sure why components fail for no apparent reason. Could have been a fluttering relay due to a faulty pressure switch causing heat build up. Relay switches are mechanical so that may have played a roll. All mechanical devices eventually will wear and fail. The new replacement board is an updated version and is expected to last longer per the manufacturer.
Ok Thanks,it always bothers me when something goes out like that,I always want to know what the cause was,just to make sure I'm solving the problem
Thanks a lot William,I'll check it out .
I'M SHOWING 12.5 AMPS ON THE HEATER,BUT THAT'S WITH POWER OFF,SHOULD i CHECK WITH POWER ON,& IF SO WHAT KIND OF READING SHOULD i HAVE ? THANKS
@@SmokinwithKasket It's due to the contacts in the relay not connecting together properly causing arcing and extra heat .
Very Very Good
Jim Murphy - Thank you. Hope it helped!!!
my hot tub wont stay warm what could be the problm
Could be a number of issues. Check and make sure your circulation pump is running. Check your relay board for burnt solders or relays. Check your pressure switch. Lastly check with a meter to see if your heating element is getting full power (240 volts). Other problems could be the control board. But most likely the first few items I listed. Good luck.
Please, for your own safety, get a proper CAT III meter. What you have there can easily blow up.
The temperature light is flashing tho
Ok well I spoke too soon. Lol my bad
@@dawley76 No problem. Thank you for watching.
soooo yeah and we don't have the Hawaiian model
we got 42
Derek Harwell - 42 what? Volts?
help
Derek Harwell - are you having the same issues as illustrated here?
should HAVE 5 YR WARRANTY, WATKINS TECH
Thank you for that info. I do not know for sure, how long the warranty is. Five years seems reasonable.
Hot spring and caldera sucks Watson sorry
I’m extremely happy with mine. Paradise Hawaiian series.
William Kasper so why are here at this video? Did your relay board burn out?if so how much did it coast to fix it?hot springs aka Watson has developed there own part line.unlike all the other tubs on the market.so they are heck to work on and costly to repair.i know because I service them.and don't ever get any freeze damage you will be screwed.
If I remember correctly the new board was about $120.00 U.S. dollars. Other than that it’s been a great tub. And we get very cold winters here in southeast lower MIchigan.
William Kasper REALLY sucks compared to a five dollar fuse in the balboa systems....