Very satisfying! I was worried about the wobble on the rotor, but after you fixed it and got everything running again, I was very impressed. I've seen many videos about building axial flux motors, and this is the first one that truly impressed me. Well done!
Great effort! To dramatically increase the power you need to REDUCE RELUCTANCE (flux resistance, the flux needs a complete and short path). How? 1. The coils need to be wrapped around steel. Being a single small bolt far away (many mm's) from the coil is a huge loss in efficiency. 2. the magnets need a steel back plate so the flux can travel easy between magnets. 3. minimize the flux air gaps. 4. balance the rotor If you fix all these, it will be minimum 4x more power, the high reluctance of your motor is killing its preformance.
Don’t get me wrong but I don’t get the first point, there’s actually a 4mm thick iron plate behind the magnets to prevent flux leakeage. I can’t minimize the air gap due to the stator being fully 3d printed and flexing due to the massive forces of the magnets on each side of the stator. Bringing the air gap down would stick the magnets to the stator, bending it slightly.
@@OverbuiltByHenry 1st point is low reluctance. Also the coil of wire should be tightly wrapped to the iron bolt to efficiently couple the winging flux to the bolt.
Brilliant! Thank you Overbuilt By Henry in sharing this video in homemade brushless axial flux motor version 4, printed & machined dual rotors & sensors. Greetings from Madang, Papua New Guinea!
Amazing man! As someone who also sleeps where they work, I appreciate your passion. If you ever make it to the US, come by Vegas. Would love to work with you.
I have seen many creators but they always lack the build quality. they just put together parts and hope it will hold on. Your approach is totally professional and Build is commercial quality maybe better than Chinese commercial product quality. to be clear am not talking about materials. But to put things together. I will suggest to start an online company. Well looking forward your upcoming videos, already subscribed.
This is awesome. I do think I'd try making the plastic parts that broke from carbon fiber coating a epoxy and iron filing core. Make the material to be milled into final shape. By using a hydraulic press and a 50mm pipe roughly 70mm long with a steel plate over one end, coat the inside with wax and make a steel or aluminum piston. That fits snugly into the pipe about about 35mm thick . Mix fine pwdered iron and possibly 20% by volume of black iron oxide. Mix the iron well then mix a thin epoxy measure enough iron to fill the tube 60 mm high . Use about half the iron mix with epoxy slowly. Until a thick paste is made, then add the rest of the iron. It should make a thick putty , play dough like thickness. Place it in the heavily waxed tube . And place the piston in the top. Start adding pressure. Keeping an eye on the pipe add pressure roughly 4-8 tons. Then allow the epoxy to setup. After about 4 hours remove pressure and allow it to sit in a warm place for about 12 -24 hours. Then remove it from the tube. Heating the tube until the wax melts may be required. Use heat snd solvents to remove any wax from the composite iron machine like normal iron. Only use light pressure and go slow to prevent breaking basically treat it like plastic. Making cores for the coils would be a great use, make the coil caps and a core in one piece the core can improve performance a fair amount, it should perform better than a laminate core. Definitely wirth trying. If you make the iron powder, use a old. Laminate transformer core make drill shavings and place the shavings inside a bucket with large steel nuts and bolts and make a rock tumbler from it. Maybe place 3 strips of 20mm angle iron attached evenly t the inside if the bucket and let it roll a few hours. The shavings should be powder by then. The iron oxide is to fill the gaps with iron. Use less epoxy . Making more inside a longer tube to allow all the cores tobe made from one batch. Buying iron filings is fairly easy. Alongwith iron oxide. Just a idea over the plastic, that will improve power output. Greater efficiency..
Well, I am really liking your workshop. I've built a few of these, smaller ones. The coils you have wound look great but I can't understand why you have two layers of coil with a plastic gap in the stator and the coil 'top' is another big chunk of plastic that is going to make the gap between coil and magnet even bigger... I would just have a single coil layer in the middle, try and minimise the air gap (no coil 'end caps' if possible). Also try experimenting with Hallbach array in the rotor magnets or back the magnets with at least 4-6mm of iron to allow the flux to 'bend back'. Finally if you can come up with a way to liquid cool the 3D printed coils/stator I think you will have completed my check list too! Anyway well done!
Thanks! To be honest I don’t know what I had in mind, I really wanted to test the dual rotor design and went for the first design I made. The version that I’m working on will be iron core, with halbach array and backiron, I did finite element simulations and seems promising!
Nice project you have. You may want to try lost pla aluminium casting when you find configuration which works the best. Those 3d printed parts can't take the heat and are not dimensionally stable under stress. You seem to have equipment to finish aluminium castings to good tolerances and surface quality.
Thanks!! Next version will only have the casing and the coil cores 3d printed, everything else will be metal. I didn’t show it on the video but due to the massive force from the magnets on each side everything was flexing, that’s why I had to extend 1,5mm more the middle shaft on each end to prevent scraping the coils.
@@OverbuiltByHenry I have made quite many of those castings. Easiest method is to print part with thin wall (0.5-1mm) and only few percent infill and then bury it in casting sand and pour hot aluminium on it. With good amount of ventilation channels, all vapour can escape and surface quality can be pretty good. I have specialized casting filament, but for this method, it's not needed. Transparent or light colored pla works fine. Don't use black filament. They often use carbon or such as a color, and it doesn't burn away. For higher precision and better surface quality, I use plaster and sand mixture and I burn the filament away. This process requires special high temperature owen and some level of work to get everything right. The mold can swell or crack with wrong kind of sand, mixture or burning temperature curve. When everything goes right, the part is shiny and smooth and measures are accurate. Part shrink when it cools, so the mould must be bigger than final part. I use 1.2%, and it's usually OK.
You are a very gifted and hard working young man and I am certain you have a bright future ahead of you. Keep going and my best wishes for your success.
U remind me of myself when I was younger I miss being in the garage and just building Cuse I enjoy it! Get vid love to see what you have in store for this motor!
Brooo where did you learn about axial flux motors? I'm an engineering student (1st year) and I have built some stuff, but none of it required your level of machining skills or the engineering knowledge you display having in your video. That's so neat, quite frankly I'm jealous (but also inspired haha). Great work, literally no employer can look at this video and turn you down.
This is the best video i can find on you tube about this motor, i want to build one myselfe one day and use it in a electric hub bike. But desiging one will be to much of a learning curve for me, ever thought about uploading the design on the internet, or maybe selling the design, and also were to get the parts, maybe pcbway is an option for lots of people... Whats also would be a fun project is making a rc car 1/8 with these motors as a hub motor;) Thanks for making the vid !
First, Great job! Love the video! Second, safety should be a top priority even in the home machine shop, no long sleeves, loose clothing, no neck ties or draw strings, no gloves, no rings, watches or other jewelry, when running mills, lathes, drill press or other shop equipment. Those tools won't care if they grind up a piece of steel or a soft squishy person.
Que grande...!!!! Proyecto super currado; y el " cago en deu" me ha encantado , cuando pienso en cuantas veces me he visto en situaciones así....😂😂😂😂.... Te acabas de ganar un subscriptor. Sigue así.
Safety first with electric stuff. Be sure to have insulated gloves to protect your hands while playing with anything that has current going into it or coming out of it.
Is it planned to design a rotor holding 2 permanent magnet disks? I asked because of the coil arrangement. You can also drive 2 permanent magnet disks with one coil disk. At the rotor disks you can use iron yoke rings to increase the flux through your coils and to avoid too much flux in the vicinity of the rotor disks. I have used disk permanent magnets and circular coils to minimize the resistance of the coils. Shape doesn't matter so much, if you don't want to go to the torque limits. It is more important to fit the outer magnet diameter of the permanent magnets with the inner diameter of the coils. I have used 2 ball bearings aligned in the center of the coil disk to suspend the rotor. The motor itself was fixed in a circular frame with 3 screw at the outer rim of the coil disk (stator).
Bravo to you and your work on this motor! Please keep it up, I'd love to see what it's capable of, once you are finished with the project. Maybe, if you're willing, even offer your plans for a few euros for those interested in duplicating your efforts?
Thanks! It was only a test if the dual rotor "setup" was feasible. When I was building it, I had problems with the major part of the coils, they were separating. I had to re-machine and re-print some parts to accommodate the extra thickness and thus have a working prototype. If everything went the way it supposed to, probably I would had it uploaded somewhere.
Excellent job!! I have a question, why in axial flux motors the windings don't use laminated iron core? I understand that laminated iron core maximize the magnetic field best than air core, is correct? Can someone please answer?
try to avoid 3d printed parts so that you can actually test the motor on something. I don't know if you can make a cnc machine to cut metal but that is what you need to make good parts that will hold up when the motor is in use. The gap between the coils and magnets matters so don't put anything in between them. you can use some kind of temporary glue to keep the coils from coming apart as you are prototyping.
Next version will be all metal exept the coil cores and the outer casing. I have a cnc router to machine all the parts needed. As you said I also glued the coils to keep them from deintegrating.
Most impressive! I literally smiled when you whipped out your calipers at your lathe👍 My only suggestion is to invest in a breadboard and start prototyping your own electronic circuits. Commercial stuff is typically all garbage, components sourced from lowest bid suppliers.
I love how people say homemade when they have an entire machine shop in their garage! Wouldn't that mean commercially or industrially made? Just curious. I mean I personally don't have 3d printers, CNC machines, lathes, mills, etc just laying around my HOME! LOL! But by all means if YOU do, FEEL free to call it HOME/MACHINESHOP/MADE! AKA DIY DID IN YELLOW painted equipment!
I’ve been saying that for years. No I don’t have a 2000 dollar 3d printer all the coding and graphics degree to design these parts. Let alone water jet cutting and mini god knows how many tens of thousands cnc machine. Homemade is different to everyone I guess.
You don't need a 2000 dollar 3d printer. A 500 dollar one will do and the rest you can learn from UA-cam and the same books they use at universities. There are probably free versions online somewhere. The hardest part will be learning 3d software. Blender is free and a great place to start. If you can't afford a printer but have the software there are print farms that will print your parts for you
@@chrisbarr-qo4frI mean bro I'am a Computer science major but mostly web technologies. Learned Microcontrollers (through simple Arduino IDE and Library) and god myself a 3D printer with the 300usd i saved up. Keep in mind its the average salary here. Learned deaigning over tutorials ( simple also nothing complex to begin with). All it takes is patience and will! Dont doubt yourself bro
Very nice. Are this v4 using the same magnets as earlier versions? The 10x10x5mm and 10x5x3mm ones in a Halbach configuration. I hope you continue developing the motor, it´s looking good.
why does it need active cooling? especially under no load and just testing situation it should not need active cooling if designed right? Im assuming the cooling is for future projects with it where high power output must be achieved. really cool video!
Would you consider in mass production? Well, by Mass I mean for a startup idea I've had for a while to produce city transport vehicles. We can work together or if you don't want to be a part of a project like this, you mind sharing the plans?
I started prototyping these motors because it’s very hard to find something decent here in Europe, and if I find it it’s expensive. I build electric vehicles and other stuff that has a motor, that’s why I’m trying to make my own motors.
Yes, It would be better with iron core, but I couldn’t find the material which is silicon steel. With iron core you have some eddy current losses, that’s why there are versions with air core
What is the tool on the lathe at 10:00 called? I haven't seen something like that mounted perpendicularly before. (Although, I don't know much about machining.)
would a epoxy and iron powder composite be a good iron core for the stator in therms of magnetic permeability? i would like to see someone trying that. High temp Epoxy resin + Thin Iron Powder
That is the kind of content ive been looking for. No need to rush, just continue what youre doing. Love an upgrading series
IS EQUAL A MOTOR THE NICOLA TESLA HAHA ESC ,CONEXION STAR, INDUCCION ,IRON OR ALUMINIO....BASIC
It’s almost a lost art on UA-cam and it’s sad
Persistence pays off. Well done!
Hey James, nice to see ya here ^^
Totally true! Thanks man!
wow
This guy will go very far in life. Great build! Congratulations!
Very satisfying! I was worried about the wobble on the rotor, but after you fixed it and got everything running again, I was very impressed. I've seen many videos about building axial flux motors, and this is the first one that truly impressed me. Well done!
You are genius! There's not many people who can combine machining skills with electronics. be proud of yourself ;)
Thanks for your kind comment! I really appreciate it!
Great effort!
To dramatically increase the power you need to REDUCE RELUCTANCE (flux resistance, the flux needs a complete and short path).
How?
1. The coils need to be wrapped around steel. Being a single small bolt far away (many mm's) from the coil is a huge loss in efficiency.
2. the magnets need a steel back plate so the flux can travel easy between magnets.
3. minimize the flux air gaps.
4. balance the rotor
If you fix all these, it will be minimum 4x more power, the high reluctance of your motor is killing its preformance.
Don’t get me wrong but I don’t get the first point, there’s actually a 4mm thick iron plate behind the magnets to prevent flux leakeage. I can’t minimize the air gap due to the stator being fully 3d printed and flexing due to the massive forces of the magnets on each side of the stator. Bringing the air gap down would stick the magnets to the stator, bending it slightly.
@@OverbuiltByHenry 1st point is low reluctance. Also the coil of wire should be tightly wrapped to the iron bolt to efficiently couple the winging flux to the bolt.
@@OverbuiltByHenry if there is a iron plate behind the magnets (that is good), why then ad a ALU plate behind that?
Brilliant! Thank you Overbuilt By Henry in sharing this video in homemade brushless axial flux motor version 4, printed & machined dual rotors & sensors. Greetings from Madang, Papua New Guinea!
I look forward to finding out what this motor's peak and continuous power is. Very cool!
Amazing man! As someone who also sleeps where they work, I appreciate your passion. If you ever make it to the US, come by Vegas. Would love to work with you.
lOOKING FORWARD TO SEE THIS MOUNTED AND DOING IT JOB. NICE WORK FELLA TOO.
I must acknowledge your exceptional skills in accomplishing this task. You have my deepest respect as a professional.
Way to go the world needs more of you and bring your friends
I have seen many creators but they always lack the build quality. they just put together parts and hope it will hold on. Your approach is totally professional and Build is commercial quality maybe better than Chinese commercial product quality. to be clear am not talking about materials. But to put things together. I will suggest to start an online company. Well looking forward your upcoming videos, already subscribed.
Thank you for your kind comment! If someday I achieve some decent results most probably I will put together some sort of "motor kit" to sell.
This is the same thing as Emrax Motor good luck ❤❤❤
This is awesome. I do think I'd try making the plastic parts that broke from carbon fiber coating a epoxy and iron filing core. Make the material to be milled into final shape. By using a hydraulic press and a 50mm pipe roughly 70mm long with a steel plate over one end, coat the inside with wax and make a steel or aluminum piston. That fits snugly into the pipe about about 35mm thick . Mix fine pwdered iron and possibly 20% by volume of black iron oxide. Mix the iron well then mix a thin epoxy measure enough iron to fill the tube 60 mm high . Use about half the iron mix with epoxy slowly. Until a thick paste is made, then add the rest of the iron. It should make a thick putty , play dough like thickness. Place it in the heavily waxed tube . And place the piston in the top. Start adding pressure. Keeping an eye on the pipe add pressure roughly 4-8 tons. Then allow the epoxy to setup. After about 4 hours remove pressure and allow it to sit in a warm place for about 12 -24 hours. Then remove it from the tube. Heating the tube until the wax melts may be required. Use heat snd solvents to remove any wax from the composite iron machine like normal iron. Only use light pressure and go slow to prevent breaking basically treat it like plastic. Making cores for the coils would be a great use, make the coil caps and a core in one piece the core can improve performance a fair amount, it should perform better than a laminate core. Definitely wirth trying. If you make the iron powder, use a old. Laminate transformer core make drill shavings and place the shavings inside a bucket with large steel nuts and bolts and make a rock tumbler from it. Maybe place 3 strips of 20mm angle iron attached evenly t the inside if the bucket and let it roll a few hours. The shavings should be powder by then. The iron oxide is to fill the gaps with iron. Use less epoxy . Making more inside a longer tube to allow all the cores tobe made from one batch. Buying iron filings is fairly easy. Alongwith iron oxide. Just a idea over the plastic, that will improve power output. Greater efficiency..
Well, I am really liking your workshop. I've built a few of these, smaller ones. The coils you have wound look great but I can't understand why you have two layers of coil with a plastic gap in the stator and the coil 'top' is another big chunk of plastic that is going to make the gap between coil and magnet even bigger... I would just have a single coil layer in the middle, try and minimise the air gap (no coil 'end caps' if possible). Also try experimenting with Hallbach array in the rotor magnets or back the magnets with at least 4-6mm of iron to allow the flux to 'bend back'. Finally if you can come up with a way to liquid cool the 3D printed coils/stator I think you will have completed my check list too! Anyway well done!
Thanks! To be honest I don’t know what I had in mind, I really wanted to test the dual rotor design and went for the first design I made. The version that I’m working on will be iron core, with halbach array and backiron, I did finite element simulations and seems promising!
It was like watching a mini portal being built, great job.
Awesome work, please keep working on this project! I can't wait for the next versions and all the improvements you will add
Awesome to see all the work that went into this. nice to see a good old fassoined coil making machine.
Great job young man! Keep it up.👍👏
you did a pretty job on those coils!
damn this guys living my dreams lol. one day we can compete and see who designs the more badass motors 😁
Nice project you have. You may want to try lost pla aluminium casting when you find configuration which works the best. Those 3d printed parts can't take the heat and are not dimensionally stable under stress. You seem to have equipment to finish aluminium castings to good tolerances and surface quality.
Thanks!! Next version will only have the casing and the coil cores 3d printed, everything else will be metal. I didn’t show it on the video but due to the massive force from the magnets on each side everything was flexing, that’s why I had to extend 1,5mm more the middle shaft on each end to prevent scraping the coils.
@@OverbuiltByHenry I have made quite many of those castings. Easiest method is to print part with thin wall (0.5-1mm) and only few percent infill and then bury it in casting sand and pour hot aluminium on it. With good amount of ventilation channels, all vapour can escape and surface quality can be pretty good.
I have specialized casting filament, but for this method, it's not needed. Transparent or light colored pla works fine. Don't use black filament. They often use carbon or such as a color, and it doesn't burn away.
For higher precision and better surface quality, I use plaster and sand mixture and I burn the filament away. This process requires special high temperature owen and some level of work to get everything right. The mold can swell or crack with wrong kind of sand, mixture or burning temperature curve. When everything goes right, the part is shiny and smooth and measures are accurate.
Part shrink when it cools, so the mould must be bigger than final part. I use 1.2%, and it's usually OK.
Hey, i'm liking the updates and the progress on this motor ^^
Only today 10/26/24 I'm watching this precious and educational video like this. 🙆🏽♂️
awesome. congratulations
Awesome to see all the work that went into making this. Nice job. Keep it up!
Nice work! At ~ 14:00 I squinted and moved my head away from the screen in anticipation of magnets flying out from that 3D printed part.. Haha!
Kinda looks like leading edge technology built out of stuff you had laying around. So, thats cool :) You should have a great future. Cheers!
Respect to your work, I made an Axial too but it's out of wood since I'm limited in my tools but good job 👍
You are a very gifted and hard working young man and I am certain you have a bright future ahead of you. Keep going and my best wishes for your success.
Thank you for your comment! I appreciate it!
U remind me of myself when I was younger I miss being in the garage and just building Cuse I enjoy it! Get vid love to see what you have in store for this motor!
Thank you!
Was waiting for this upload since 3 months
I know it took a lot of time, I did it when I had time
It had so much power that it actually tried to move off the platform, nice
Good job Thankyou for sharing
KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK MAN!!!!!
HOLY SHIT NICEE!!! WELL DONE!!!
Great work ... anticipating some wheel spinning go-cart burnouts in your future.
Thanks! That’s the plan!
Brooo where did you learn about axial flux motors? I'm an engineering student (1st year) and I have built some stuff, but none of it required your level of machining skills or the engineering knowledge you display having in your video. That's so neat, quite frankly I'm jealous (but also inspired haha). Great work, literally no employer can look at this video and turn you down.
Thanks for sharing your intresting information and video.
I love the vedios that has a ghetto feeling to it .great job man keep it up ❤
Brilliant mate .
Thanks!!
This is the best video i can find on you tube about this motor, i want to build one myselfe one day and use it in a electric hub bike. But desiging one will be to much of a learning curve for me, ever thought about uploading the design on the internet, or maybe selling the design, and also were to get the parts, maybe pcbway is an option for lots of people...
Whats also would be a fun project is making a rc car 1/8 with these motors as a hub motor;)
Thanks for making the vid !
You have my sub. Great content!
Thank you!!
yeah, this is why the coils are encased.. And compressed but this good enough for a Prototype..
Good work. Maybe you will be the first to build an AFBLDC motor that has some value.
Thank you for the design
Great work, love how you did everything by hand.
Well done! Keep up the good work, matte!
Nice work, thanks for sharing!
Nice video and workshop 👍
Thanks!
Well done, perfect job!
What dedication is very impressive...hugely inventive.. are you considering dual rotor, the results seem to be extremely positive.
Love it! Well done.
First, Great job! Love the video! Second, safety should be a top priority even in the home machine shop, no long sleeves, loose clothing, no neck ties or draw strings, no gloves, no rings, watches or other jewelry, when running mills, lathes, drill press or other shop equipment. Those tools won't care if they grind up a piece of steel or a soft squishy person.
Que grande...!!!! Proyecto super currado; y el " cago en deu" me ha encantado , cuando pienso en cuantas veces me he visto en situaciones así....😂😂😂😂.... Te acabas de ganar un subscriptor. Sigue así.
Muchísimas gracias!!
ciao non guardo tutto il video ma ti posso dire che sei proprio bravo
Thanks!
Safety first with electric stuff. Be sure to have insulated gloves to protect your hands while playing with anything that has current going into it or coming out of it.
At safe voltages? Why?
Your obviously someone that doesn't work with low voltages very often
@@akkudakkupl Simple best to be safe then sorry just in case you accidentally calculated the volts wrong.
@@harrylenon9594 best to be safe then sorry just in case you accidentally calculated the volts wrong.
@@MasterFeiFongWong there is no calculation needed
Is it planned to design a rotor holding 2 permanent magnet disks? I asked because of the coil arrangement. You can also drive 2 permanent magnet disks with one coil disk. At the rotor disks you can use iron yoke rings to increase the flux through your coils and to avoid too much flux in the vicinity of the rotor disks. I have used disk permanent magnets and circular coils to minimize the resistance of the coils. Shape doesn't matter so much, if you don't want to go to the torque limits. It is more important to fit the outer magnet diameter of the permanent magnets with the inner diameter of the coils. I have used 2 ball bearings aligned in the center of the coil disk to suspend the rotor. The motor itself was fixed in a circular frame with 3 screw at the outer rim of the coil disk (stator).
Bravo to you and your work on this motor! Please keep it up, I'd love to see what it's capable of, once you are finished with the project.
Maybe, if you're willing, even offer your plans for a few euros for those interested in duplicating your efforts?
Thanks! It was only a test if the dual rotor "setup" was feasible. When I was building it, I had problems with the major part of the coils, they were separating. I had to re-machine and re-print some parts to accommodate the extra thickness and thus have a working prototype. If everything went the way it supposed to, probably I would had it uploaded somewhere.
nice work!
Excellent job!! I have a question, why in axial flux motors the windings don't use laminated iron core? I understand that laminated iron core maximize the magnetic field best than air core, is correct? Can someone please answer?
Yes, you are right. The air core exists because there are no eddy current losses on the stator made of iron core
try to avoid 3d printed parts so that you can actually test the motor on something. I don't know if you can make a cnc machine to cut metal but that is what you need to make good parts that will hold up when the motor is in use. The gap between the coils and magnets matters so don't put anything in between them. you can use some kind of temporary glue to keep the coils from coming apart as you are prototyping.
Next version will be all metal exept the coil cores and the outer casing. I have a cnc router to machine all the parts needed. As you said I also glued the coils to keep them from deintegrating.
You can save a lot of time by simulating it in Maxwell before building anything
Would it not be more efficient if only the centre rotor turned, between two magnets coils?
Oh and print an air blower in centre, to keep motor cool?
Great work !!
its so stable you so wonderful brother
Most impressive! I literally smiled when you whipped out your calipers at your lathe👍 My only suggestion is to invest in a breadboard and start prototyping your own electronic circuits. Commercial stuff is typically all garbage, components sourced from lowest bid suppliers.
Thanks! I’ve been into arduino lately, I don’t record it but I also love tinkering with electronics
@@OverbuiltByHenry keep it up! All these skills are worth big money in the Job world.
I love how people say homemade when they have an entire machine shop in their garage! Wouldn't that mean commercially or industrially made? Just curious. I mean I personally don't have 3d printers, CNC machines, lathes, mills, etc just laying around my HOME! LOL! But by all means if YOU do, FEEL free to call it HOME/MACHINESHOP/MADE! AKA DIY DID IN YELLOW painted equipment!
I’ve been saying that for years. No I don’t have a 2000 dollar 3d printer all the coding and graphics degree to design these parts. Let alone water jet cutting and mini god knows how many tens of thousands cnc machine. Homemade is different to everyone I guess.
You don't need a 2000 dollar 3d printer. A 500 dollar one will do and the rest you can learn from UA-cam and the same books they use at universities. There are probably free versions online somewhere. The hardest part will be learning 3d software. Blender is free and a great place to start.
If you can't afford a printer but have the software there are print farms that will print your parts for you
@@chrisbarr-qo4frI mean bro I'am a Computer science major but mostly web technologies. Learned Microcontrollers (through simple Arduino IDE and Library) and god myself a 3D printer with the 300usd i saved up. Keep in mind its the average salary here. Learned deaigning over tutorials ( simple also nothing complex to begin with). All it takes is patience and will! Dont doubt yourself bro
I would assume their garage is at home. So by my reasoning you answered your own question. Just saying
Very nice.
Are this v4 using the same magnets as earlier versions?
The 10x10x5mm and 10x5x3mm ones in a Halbach configuration.
I hope you continue developing the motor, it´s looking good.
Yes! Same magnets.
This is really awesome
Perfect to produce free energy
Thankyou for a beautiful video!!!!
incredible work!
Thanks!!
why does it need active cooling? especially under no load and just testing situation it should not need active cooling if designed right? Im assuming the cooling is for future projects with it where high power output must be achieved. really cool video!
Would you consider in mass production? Well, by Mass I mean for a startup idea I've had for a while to produce city transport vehicles. We can work together or if you don't want to be a part of a project like this, you mind sharing the plans?
How many Kw ?
an axial flux motor in an ebike hub motor style - that would be neat
very cool. i can hardly wait for video of v5. if it is already done, then please put link in reply or description of this video.
Very nice work!
What a talent, congrats. Just take Care using long tshirt operating lathe. Subscribed
Idk if I missed it, but what are you planning to mount this on? Can't wait to see it!
I started prototyping these motors because it’s very hard to find something decent here in Europe, and if I find it it’s expensive. I build electric vehicles and other stuff that has a motor, that’s why I’m trying to make my own motors.
Wow that's really impressive. Where did you get your 3d printed designs?
I designed all the parts myself
that intro clip was hilarious
Any cad models ?
Is is possible you can share. The steps to build the axial flux motor?
Great video. Very impressive. Definitely subbing to see where this project takes you.
Thank you very much!!
I will say you in the next one too ;)
Amazing design and execution although I can't help but notice that the coils are air core. Wouldn't it be better for an iron core design??
Yes, It would be better with iron core, but I couldn’t find the material which is silicon steel. With iron core you have some eddy current losses, that’s why there are versions with air core
@@OverbuiltByHenry right that makes sense. 👌
What is the tool on the lathe at 10:00 called? I haven't seen something like that mounted perpendicularly before. (Although, I don't know much about machining.)
Have you ever measured the efficiency of this motor?
Podrias compartir tus planos y datos de tu proyecto ?
very cool. what material is this printed from? PLA???
The core of the coils is protopasta magnetic PLA, the middle spacer PETG and the “housings” are made out carbon fiber polycarbonate
How come I did not subscribe to your channel before? Good work. Thanks.
Thanks for your comment!
Hey Bro, how did you fix the bobbin of the stator with the motor body?
you're doing great work
Thanks!!
Great research and development. Where are you located?
I’m from Catalonia, Spain
Will you release your design?
how are you removing the insulation?
Absolutely gorgeous work, I would love to see power and torque curves.
Thanks! I’m currently working on the dyno/test bench to measure torque/power
RRoyce used cork as a vibration absorbing spacer in their speed record electric aircraft... 😉
would a epoxy and iron powder composite be a good iron core for the stator in therms of magnetic permeability? i would like to see someone trying that. High temp Epoxy resin + Thin Iron Powder
What material are the steel disks or how do you keep them from rusting