Great job Brian! Thanks for posting this video in it's true form. Raw, not overly edited if at all, and just showing us, especially techs, that it's ok to make mistakes sometimes. When we don't realize our mistakes or don't know how to fix them, that's the real problem! Cheers!
I enjoyed this video so keep them coming. I like the slightly longer ones so we can see what your thought process is and how you go about proving what that is.
THANKS, BRIAN,, I CAN'T WAIT TO SEE WHAT BECOMES OF THIS DIAGNOSIS. THROUGH THE VIDEO I THOUGHT ABOUT DOING A BYPASS OF THE ABS MODULE WHICH IS SOMETHING I USUALLY TRY WHEN I AM NOT SURE . THANKS AGAIN FOR YOUR TIME !!!!!!!!!!!!!
Great video. I am trying to assist a friend whom bought an auction vehicle. No crank. I was getting 60 ohms on the GMLAN hi speed CAN. I then Isolated the CAN bus in two pieces and found a short at on the GMLAN + which went to to the chassis control module which led me to the parking brake module that lives in the left wheel well. it apparently was on fire on the past and its connector is toasted. I was able cut of the wires and seperate them and hooked up a 120 ohms resister in the can bus and is reading 120 ohms before and after i connected the two section together. Today I seperated the other part where the 120o hms resistor lives in the ECM and I got an open cercuit OL. I disconnected the computer and attached a 120 ohms resistor and nada it is still open. I am at my wits here. Oh, the car came in with a broken rear glass with water in the trunk. whenever i connect the battery the trunk opens, all doors unlock, instrument cluster hazards blink but nothe actual blinkers, so is the high beam also. when I hook up the test light to dtc 1 and grount the other end of the test light the blinking goes away and the instrument cluster comes alive ut still no crank. sorry for the long post and you make great videos that I truly enjoy.
Brian I would take a video from you if it was recorded with a potato. I have to been burned by not putting a jumper on and not checking downstream network
Might need some more things done. The Ignition Switch appears to be suspect. That Ground=Very Corroded. I've taken some older ABS Modules and opened them up and resoldered the Circuit Boards to get the ABS Light and Brake light to go out. If It's just the ABS Module. The System appears to be of weak design/Engineering Defect. It's not in the Best Place for a ABS Pump on a SUV 4x4. Heat from the Pipes + Water = Damage. Like Heating up the Brakes and taking Them for a Swim = Warped Rotors and Drums. God Bless, C.
Take a real hard look at side detection modules in the rear bumper fascia. Have seen many of these go bad. These modules swell up and also get green corrosion at the connectors they cause all sorts of issues sometimes even no start and gauges going wonky. Agree with bypassing data lines at electronic brake control module for verification.
Jumper CAN L/H in over to CAN L/H out should be standard procedure. Not a diagnostic approved step, BUT, many times the ABS module is a fault, simply do the "unplug it test" (Scanner Danner) jumper the CAN pins and see what happens, the majority of the time, I believe, the problem is there. Thanks for the case. At the end you talk about being a professional, in the beginning, you are not sure which vehicle and engine it is, if you are going to be making professional technician videos, please read the work order before you start, if you have a bad memory like Ivan, write it down again in your notebook. I know editing a video takes real-time but watching professionals make mistake after mistake and say out loud whatever strange thought enters their brain (common UA-cam issue) is very unprofessional, otherwise, really like your channel bro.
Hey Thanks for watching. I appreciate the comments as I always have room to improve. I am transparent with you all showing /and saying what I am thinking, this is what many ask to see here . I am not a know it all by any stretch. I was happy to share this video to state that exact fact that you mentioned " Jumper CAN L/H in over to CAN L/H out should be standard procedure. Not a diagnostic approved step, BUT, ..." Looking back I can agree parts of this video are unprofessional, however this video was not about SOP or work flow it was about figuring this problem out fast.. and showing that it didn't really matter what year make or model I was working on if a general understanding of how the system works (CAN BUS).. This is why I put the DLC break out box on the vehicle and tested with that little voltmeter in the very beginning and had more diagnostic direction in 30 seconds than many techs have in 2 hours. Many shops that I work for don not even have written work orders, I was running fast and on the fly so this is what it is . It is a fun challenge to run a mobile diagnostic and training business, The real challenge is diagnosing the vehicle in a unfamiliar facility, holding the camera and answering the phone LOL so I get side tracked, also internet cutting in and out.. But like Eric O says.. If I can do it you can do it.. and I will add that we all may do it a bit differently. Have a good one ...
Great job Brian! Thanks for posting this video in it's true form. Raw, not overly edited if at all, and just showing us, especially techs, that it's ok to make mistakes sometimes. When we don't realize our mistakes or don't know how to fix them, that's the real problem! Cheers!
you are super fast like superman LOL great video Mate keep the good work thanks
I never thought about jumping out the can.. good idea
I enjoyed this video so keep them coming. I like the slightly longer ones so we can see what your thought process is and how you go about proving what that is.
Hi. All off your videos is excellent. Just appreciate you taking the time.
Keep it coming Brian their the Best Great job
THANKS, BRIAN,, I CAN'T WAIT TO SEE WHAT BECOMES OF THIS DIAGNOSIS. THROUGH THE VIDEO I THOUGHT ABOUT DOING A BYPASS OF THE ABS MODULE WHICH IS SOMETHING I USUALLY TRY WHEN I AM NOT SURE . THANKS AGAIN FOR YOUR TIME !!!!!!!!!!!!!
I like it, keep’em coming. Good work!
Good diagnosis!
As always excellent
Thank you so much for posting informative videos.
i like your diagnosis videos
You do a great job God bless
Boss I want u to explain mor about high and low can bus net work and how u jump wires as u montioned please and thank u
Great video. I am trying to assist a friend whom bought an auction vehicle. No crank. I was getting 60 ohms on the GMLAN hi speed CAN. I then Isolated the CAN bus in two pieces and found a short at on the GMLAN + which went to to the chassis control module which led me to the parking brake module that lives in the left wheel well. it apparently was on fire on the past and its connector is toasted. I was able cut of the wires and seperate them and hooked up a 120 ohms resister in the can bus and is reading 120 ohms before and after i connected the two section together. Today I seperated the other part where the 120o hms resistor lives in the ECM and I got an open cercuit OL. I disconnected the computer and attached a 120 ohms resistor and nada it is still open. I am at my wits here. Oh, the car came in with a broken rear glass with water in the trunk. whenever i connect the battery the trunk opens, all doors unlock, instrument cluster hazards blink but nothe actual blinkers, so is the high beam also. when I hook up the test light to dtc 1 and grount the other end of the test light the blinking goes away and the instrument cluster comes alive ut still no crank. sorry for the long post and you make great videos that I truly enjoy.
By jumper the network, do you mean install a 60ohm resistor in the terminating pins of the abs connector?
Brian I would take a video from you if it was recorded with a potato. I have to been burned by not putting a jumper on and not checking downstream network
LOL thanks John!
Might need some more things done. The Ignition Switch appears to be suspect. That Ground=Very Corroded. I've taken some older ABS Modules and opened them up and resoldered the Circuit Boards to get the ABS Light and Brake light to go out. If It's just the ABS Module. The System appears to be of weak design/Engineering Defect. It's not in the Best Place for a ABS Pump on a SUV 4x4. Heat from the Pipes + Water = Damage. Like Heating up the Brakes and taking Them for a Swim = Warped Rotors and Drums. God Bless, C.
Take a real hard look at side detection modules in the rear bumper fascia. Have seen many of these go bad. These modules swell up and also get green corrosion at the connectors they cause all sorts of issues sometimes even no start and gauges going wonky. Agree with bypassing data lines at electronic brake control module for verification.
Oh I see you had low speed data bus looking good at the time. So would indicate side detection okay I believe that's the only data bus it's on.
yes that was my conclusion.
⭐👍⭐
HAMMER TIME
no if's ot buts about it iys a bad ABS module
How much does vision cost? Never been. I’m in Columbus
www.visionkc.com/?gclid=CjwKCAiAsNKQBhAPEiwAB-I5zSimYfmxxxoDL0eLxpTMbTN1bnS-CBocYjUt0dEd7z8ORtBvIg4HNBoCWh8QAvD_BwE
That's a 2012.
I was putting the date in the title if when I did the job, for some reason youtube doesn't like dashes
Jumper CAN L/H in over to CAN L/H out should be standard procedure. Not a diagnostic approved step, BUT, many times the ABS module is a fault, simply do the "unplug it test" (Scanner Danner) jumper the CAN pins and see what happens, the majority of the time, I believe, the problem is there. Thanks for the case. At the end you talk about being a professional, in the beginning, you are not sure which vehicle and engine it is, if you are going to be making professional technician videos, please read the work order before you start, if you have a bad memory like Ivan, write it down again in your notebook. I know editing a video takes real-time but watching professionals make mistake after mistake and say out loud whatever strange thought enters their brain (common UA-cam issue) is very unprofessional, otherwise, really like your channel bro.
Hey Thanks for watching. I appreciate the comments as I always have room to improve. I am transparent with you all showing /and saying what I am thinking, this is what many ask to see here . I am not a know it all by any stretch. I was happy to share this video to state that exact fact that you mentioned " Jumper CAN L/H in over to CAN L/H out should be standard procedure. Not a diagnostic approved step, BUT, ..." Looking back I can agree parts of this video are unprofessional, however this video was not about SOP or work flow it was about figuring this problem out fast.. and showing that it didn't really matter what year make or model I was working on if a general understanding of how the system works (CAN BUS).. This is why I put the DLC break out box on the vehicle and tested with that little voltmeter in the very beginning and had more diagnostic direction in 30 seconds than many techs have in 2 hours. Many shops that I work for don not even have written work orders, I was running fast and on the fly so this is what it is . It is a fun challenge to run a mobile diagnostic and training business, The real challenge is diagnosing the vehicle in a unfamiliar facility, holding the camera and answering the phone LOL so I get side tracked, also internet cutting in and out.. But like Eric O says.. If I can do it you can do it.. and I will add that we all may do it a bit differently. Have a good one ...