That new CVT will definitely be a great improvement, Much nicer quality. Thanks for posting! It’s nice to see how you go about building these parts, everyone has there own way to build things and it’s always great to see that! I’m looking forward to part 12!
I gotta say I'm damn proud of your resolve. One of the hardest things to do is stop while you are in the middle of building something and take a good look at and be willing to take steps backwards and redo work to make it better. I've been there and done that and it's not easy. I love your work and look forward to more.
Well used modern equipment for the very least time consuming . You're working on very carefully part by part. U May probably be able to proceed your talent in making a such vehicle.
Hey Donn, sure do enjoy watching you build stuff, no temper tantrums!!! Have to change something, so what. No blue prints to go by, big deal, I will do it Donn’s way. It will be strong and work the way I want it. Yes Sir, you’re the man and we admire you and your work habits. Thanks for sharing with us and keep them rolling 👍👍.
Все просто отлично. Очень профессиональная ,чистая и грамотная работа. Удачи и счастья. Лайк, лайк и только лайк,хотя не в лайках дело.Просто уважение как к мастеру.
Bro the way you can go out and make anything you want from some piece of metal is so awesome! it makes me want to get a welder and a lathe and get building such an amazing skill you have..if you need a bolt, or bearing housing, or drive shaft you just make it from whatever you have, it's so cool love watching and getting ideas on how you do things because you know what to do..truly a pleasure watching someone with your skills!
Donn this project is a fantastic build, changes you make fit well and all the additional material added will no doubt make it robust and into a class of it's own. Beautiful Machine and so many thanks are Due for the adding the influence of Mr Doug from svseeker to your video, he will no doubt be informed and giving the heads up, by Me..he and I are good friends and I spend many hours working with him and so many others aboard seeker, Thanks so much Donn, your a true craftsman in your ideas and builds...Bart !!
I started watching SV Seeker and Doug on UA-cam probably near to the beginning of the chinese junk boat build. Everyone will learn something from that build! 🤘
Im only 20 minutes into the video and i had to stop and comment. The rubber flex coupler is absolutely genius.. Really! I mean it! I like that it allows for a several degrees of angle offset.. It seems like it will run quite smooth too! I will definitely be filing this video away for future reference.. I know for sure ill be able to use this idea on a few projects I have in mind. Great idea 💡
Donn, I’ve read many comments stating “so much steel gonna need a bigger engine”. Do you think they gave any thought about how low of gearing this is gonna be? A transmission that has its own differential of about 3 to 1 going into another differential that’s about 3 turns in to 1 turn output. I think your doing a damn fine job.
That's right - the first gear reduction is at the CVT when on lower revs; second gear reduction is in the gearbox and first differential 1:4 ratio; the third gear reduction is in the second differential also 1:4 ratio. It'll be quite slow but enough for my use.
Y'know, I think if you wanted to, you could build a monster truck from spare parts. Your talent and skill and patience are your greatest assets. Keep building and I'll keep watching.
This video is part of a series of videos, check out the series here: ua-cam.com/video/vNDiAHNykoY/v-deo.html Subscribe for more and check out my other videos on my channel page: ua-cam.com/users/DonnDIY
Donn DIY you spend so much time on this why are you not making a suspension ? Your back will thank you and it will be better at off-road because more wheels will be in contact with the ground
Very impressive, the only mistake I see that will rear its ugly head is your roll bar is a little too close to your shoulders. It would have been better to put the seat in then put the Roll Bar in so you can get some distance between you and the roll bar.
You are doing great work. You should know that the input shaft of that transmission only has a one bearing on it. It needs to be centered to your clutch with a pilot bushing. So the shaft stays still it won't flop around otherwise you'll wear the input bearing out quickly
You are a lot like me. I too fully weld stuff together and then change my mind. Also usually some piece of scrap or junk sits around for years and years and then one day after I throw it away, I need it!
Просто красава)Смотрю с удовольствием,очень интересно.Молодец,что не боишся переработать уязвимые узлы и точки(не ошибается тот ,кто ничего не делает)Удачи!Не сдавайся))
Donn I like everything you’ve done so far. I would like to comment about your flexible coupling between the jack shaft and trans. It looks great but normally there is a pilot bushing to support the end of the trans shaft in the crankshaft of the engine. The bearings in the input side of the trans are very small because the pilot bushing takes most of the load. You may have an issue if the flex coupling pulls it to the side under load. I would suggest maybe tying a plate across the front of the trans with a bearing bolted to it to support the inside half of the flex coupling. This would give you support and still have the flex coupling. Keep up the great work.
Hi you have a amazing idea plan really nice welding I'm a old school fabricator even my welding isn't that good thanks for sharing your idea's now you have me glued and waiting for each video you put out
Great job ! Just for fun make a “U” from a piece of metal sheet. Turn it upside down. Put it over the drive shaft and sit it on the square tubing body piece under the drive shaft. Weld the tops of the “U” to the square tube body piece. Now, if the drive shaft ever comes loose or breaks while you are going 50 k/hour the drive shaft will not beat you to death. ;)
Much better putting all the drivetrain parts on their own subframe. I was worried about that pillow block on the driven shaft being attached to the main frame crossmember the way it was before. The amount the engine end of the shaft moves would surprise you, no matter how rigidly you think your engine is mounted. Much better clutch, that Comet Clutch wasn't built for 20hp. The bolt design for your engine mounts needs larger holes and shouldered bushings so there's no metal to metal contact with the bolts. This is a good mounting scheme for a hydraulic unit, generator, compressor etc, but to accommodate the torque of a shaft drive system some nice liquid filled engine mounts on a wide stance would be a good choice.
Отверстия в уголках крепления агрегата желательно рассвелить поболее и поставить резиновые втулки от верхних штоков амортизаторов,(они с юбкой)чтобы крепежные болты не касались уголков.,иначе вся вибрация будет передаваться на кузов.С уважением!)
I Just love watching you fabricate! It is so plain to see that you think it, you measure, you cut, you drill, you weld. Your vision comes to life! It is now reality. Perfect.
Also Donn, you should invest into keyway broaches. I have two sets. For broaching 3/16" and 1/4" keyways. They were fairly inexpensive on ebay used. I believe I won both sets in nice little boxes, with the broaches and bushings for about $150.00 shipped
Congratulations! It's a good thing iheeding the advice! Только двигатель ты поставил неправильно,надо по шаблону вариатор настраивать. Ещё установи тормоз на ведомый шкив CVT.От велосипеда или скутера подойдёт. На будущее, лучше бери вариатор Арктика,он лучше с китайцем работает. Пока смотрел "зайцев" нахватался,не уснуть )))
Absolutely fantastic, you are amazing. I've worked self employed as a custom fabricator for 45 years. It is a true joy watching you, your skills are awesome. I'm retired now, and in the process of building a 30' x 30' work- shop, because I can't wait trying out some of my ideas. Will be following you, keep up the good work !
Very nice. you got so many good ideas.. sometimes I wish I was there with you paying attention what you doing I like all you ideas thank you for all you videos God bless👍👍👍👍
I'd be a bit concerned about the side clearance between your head and the roll bar. If you do roll it there is a fair chance of hitting your head on the bar. I can tell you from experience that really hurts. I'd suggest either moving the bar back a bit further or widening it. Apart from that it's looking really good. I can't wait to see it run :-)
Make a rolling base for the other seat from the parts car, every shop needs a “thinking chair”. Keep up the great work. Also I like the new flex coupling, less weight? I also like the power unit being a single package, removable and rubber mounted.
Hi! I love your channel! I love the tank build! For roll bar/crash bar I’m worried that you are using seam-welded tubing. That can split and injure the driver or passenger in an accident! Make sure your tubing used in the roll bar/crash bar is thick walled tubing that is NOT seam welded! Thanks for the great videos!
It takes a lot to split seam welded tube. I've seen plenty of twisted up and bent tubes but never one that has failed along the seam. Keep in mind also that this thing is not going very fast. That tube's plenty strong enough.
Maybe it's a dumb thought, but it might be worth while to make sure the bolt-holes of the coupler between the CVT and the transmission line up. That way if the rubber craps out in the middle of nowhere, it would be possible to connect the parts without the rubber. I mean the parts might take a beating, but you might make it home
@@DonnDIY might be a good idea to make sure you can see the rubber in order to inspect it periodically too. An access hole or something depending on the final design. The rubber looks like the sidewall of a large bias ply tire which is somewhat similar to the drive belt construction. Both of which can handle enormous stress and will show signs of deterioration before failing.
A CVT and a gearbox, OH the pornography of ratios, LOL. Awesome power pack. I built my riding mower with a vari drive and a gear box, I have 35 forward gears and 7 reverse, LOL.
Awesome work! If it doesn't work like you want, re-build it right. Congratulations! Will you protect the inside metalwork with "bedliner"? The tough stuff you coat the bed of a pickup truck from rusting and scratching? It would add weight to your vehicle but would protect the framework from ever being scuffed and rusting. Mostly the hidden metal parts. Donn, thanks for another great video.
Not worried about the flex coupling but am concerned about balance from the 2 bolts where the key was especially as you're not using a spigot bush on the gearbox input shaft. Your rubber mounts would work better if the holes were bigger and rubber was used inside the hole, it will wear the bolts through eventually. I like your welds though so it's not all bad 😀.
Just when I thought you could not do it any Better ---- You Do !!!! You are truly amazing and your thought process for your builds are over the Top...This is going to be a beast !!!!!
Back in prehistoric times in my high school welding class, my instructor taught us to use damp modeling clay to draw heat off metal near welds. We'd pack it in contact with the metal near whatever we wanted to protect from the heat and the clay would absorb the heat, preventing the rubber mounts or dampers from melting. It removed easily and would wipe right off.
I have been watching this series, enjoy very much, obviously a very skilled craftsman and fabrication expert. I have a question, the Track wheels seem to be solid with no suspension, no individual travel space, is that not an issue or is it intentionally that way?
Not sure if it's ever going to be a issue, but the bolts you used in place of the key on the flex joint stick out quite a lot. It seems like you could reduce the profile of the bolts (and any vibration they may cause) by cutting off the heads and then cutting slits into the tops, thus effectively turning the bolts into flat head set screws.
If you make the holes ~50% larger in the tabs, you'll get significantly better isolation. The rubber will squeeze into the gap and prevent the stud from contacting the tab.
I respect a person who is willing to redo a lot of work because they feel it could be done better. That is what separates regular from brilliant.
It’s funny the little gems you find on UA-cam. That toothbrush in the oil trick is a pearl. Thanks.
That new CVT will definitely be a great improvement, Much nicer quality. Thanks for posting! It’s nice to see how you go about building these parts, everyone has there own way to build things and it’s always great to see that! I’m looking forward to part 12!
Thanks, Mike!
Mi manca la voce
B
Donn, as usual, your skills and ingenuity do not disappoint.
I'm quite sure both your Father and GrandFather are very proud of you!! Great work
Thank you very much.
You are a true Craftsman designer and fabricator my hat off to you did a wonderful job
I gotta say I'm damn proud of your resolve. One of the hardest things to do is stop while you are in the middle of building something and take a good look at and be willing to take steps backwards and redo work to make it better. I've been there and done that and it's not easy. I love your work and look forward to more.
Agree with this 100%
Well used modern equipment for the very least time consuming . You're working on very carefully part by part. U May probably be able to proceed your talent in making a such vehicle.
Not only are u in a class of your own brother, u also seem to be in a world of your own. Brilliant. Respect from Eire.
Man I am a retired Steelworker and will be waiting for your next videos. Your knowledge skill and patience are to die for. Have fun.
Thanks man!
It’s really coming together, the engine and transmission are quite complicated but your on top of it. Great work and welding regards John
Thank you!
Who needs a mill when you have a sharp drill bit. NASA could save tons of money with an Engineer such as yourself! You have awesome skills.
Next Chanel - Donny DIY - In Space !
Donny DIY luar biasa. Pokoke esih ngenteni vidio2 selanjute. Salam
Massive fabrication skills
Thank you!
Hey Donn, sure do enjoy watching you build stuff, no temper tantrums!!! Have to change something, so what. No blue prints to go by, big deal, I will do it Donn’s way. It will be strong and work the way I want it. Yes Sir, you’re the man and we admire you and your work habits. Thanks for sharing with us and keep them rolling 👍👍.
And once again, thank you for the support!
Все просто отлично. Очень профессиональная ,чистая и грамотная работа. Удачи и счастья. Лайк, лайк и только лайк,хотя не в лайках дело.Просто уважение как к мастеру.
I really like the way your powertrain is evolving.
Bro the way you can go out and make anything you want from some piece of metal is so awesome! it makes me want to get a welder and a lathe and get building such an amazing skill you have..if you need a bolt, or bearing housing, or drive shaft you just make it from whatever you have, it's so cool love watching and getting ideas on how you do things because you know what to do..truly a pleasure watching someone with your skills!
Donn this project is a fantastic build, changes you make fit well and all the additional material added will no doubt make it robust and into a class of it's own. Beautiful Machine and so many thanks are Due for the adding the influence of Mr Doug from svseeker to your video, he will no doubt be informed and giving the heads up, by Me..he and I are good friends and I spend many hours working with him and so many others aboard seeker, Thanks so much Donn, your a true craftsman in your ideas and builds...Bart !!
I started watching SV Seeker and Doug on UA-cam probably near to the beginning of the chinese junk boat build. Everyone will learn something from that build! 🤘
Im only 20 minutes into the video and i had to stop and comment. The rubber flex coupler is absolutely genius.. Really! I mean it! I like that it allows for a several degrees of angle offset.. It seems like it will run quite smooth too! I will definitely be filing this video away for future reference.. I know for sure ill be able to use this idea on a few projects I have in mind. Great idea 💡
Ok, everybody has admired your skill, and I greatly agree. What impressed me more is the tidy shop!
💪
p
l
Man, you are a very inteligent creature, congratulations, I could never do that, for sure .
Donn, I’ve read many comments stating “so much steel gonna need a bigger engine”. Do you think they gave any thought about how low of gearing this is gonna be? A transmission that has its own differential of about 3 to 1 going into another differential that’s about 3 turns in to 1 turn output. I think your doing a damn fine job.
That's right - the first gear reduction is at the CVT when on lower revs; second gear reduction is in the gearbox and first differential 1:4 ratio; the third gear reduction is in the second differential also 1:4 ratio. It'll be quite slow but enough for my use.
Yes, and these engine have a lot of torque for their small size. It'll be fine ! 👍
I'm joining this midway - are you making a separate water impeller?
Good work and Danny D
thats going to be an awesome machine , your a hell of a thinker with great tool making skills
Thank you for the motivation!
Woow, nice fabrication work
I like the you fix the ball joints,
Y'know, I think if you wanted to, you could build a monster truck from spare parts. Your talent and skill and patience are your greatest assets. Keep building and I'll keep watching.
Admiro tu forma de trabajar simple e inteligente. Felicitaciones
This video is part of a series of videos, check out the series here:
ua-cam.com/video/vNDiAHNykoY/v-deo.html
Subscribe for more and check out my other videos on my channel page:
ua-cam.com/users/DonnDIY
ツ♥
Parabéns amigo tá ficando top salve Brasil
Donn DIY you spend so much time on this why are you not making a suspension ? Your back will thank you and it will be better at off-road because more wheels will be in contact with the ground
👍👍👍👍
Very impressive, the only mistake I see that will rear its ugly head is your roll bar is a little too close to your shoulders. It would have been better to put the seat in then put the Roll Bar in so you can get some distance between you and the roll bar.
Replacing the CVT will took a long process. Nice job
I like this design way better the single unit power train is awesome
You are doing great work. You should know that the input shaft of that transmission only has a one bearing on it. It needs to be centered to your clutch with a pilot bushing. So the shaft stays still it won't flop around otherwise you'll wear the input bearing out quickly
Olet todella taitava ja kova heppu. Näytät esimerkilläsi, että vähillä ja vaatimattomilla tarvikkeilla voi saada paljon aikaan. Toivon, että onnistut.
Tottakai hän onnistuu.
Nice transmission flector!
You are a lot like me. I too fully weld stuff together and then change my mind. Also usually some piece of scrap or junk sits around for years and years and then one day after I throw it away, I need it!
That's exactly how it happens!
GOOD WORK and it's a good idea for to change the universal joint.
Просто красава)Смотрю с удовольствием,очень интересно.Молодец,что не боишся переработать уязвимые узлы и точки(не ошибается тот ,кто ничего не делает)Удачи!Не сдавайся))
с самого нача ла хотел такое соединение предложить но языка не знаю а так класс молодец 👋👍👍
Donn I like everything you’ve done so far. I would like to comment about your flexible coupling between the jack shaft and trans. It looks great but normally there is a pilot bushing to support the end of the trans shaft in the crankshaft of the engine. The bearings in the input side of the trans are very small because the pilot bushing takes most of the load. You may have an issue if the flex coupling pulls it to the side under load. I would suggest maybe tying a plate across the front of the trans with a bearing bolted to it to support the inside half of the flex coupling. This would give you support and still have the flex coupling. Keep up the great work.
Elevator
I agree totally. It was bugging me, and I was scrolling through to see if someone had mentioned it. You nailed it👍
You really got MIG welding down right. Love your use of the abrasive cutoff saw. Keep up the great work too.
It is mostly the welder. 😜
@@DonnDIY Proper technique means a lot too.
Hi you have a amazing idea plan really nice welding I'm a old school fabricator even my welding isn't that good thanks for sharing your idea's now you have me glued and waiting for each video you put out
Cheers! New video next Friday again! 😉
Great job !
Just for fun make a “U” from a piece of metal sheet. Turn it upside down. Put it over the drive shaft and sit it on the square tubing body piece under the drive shaft. Weld the tops of the “U” to the square tube body piece. Now, if the drive shaft ever comes loose or breaks while you are going 50 k/hour the drive shaft will not beat you to death. ;)
Как раз вовремя нашёл ваш канал, тоже начал собирать подобный аппарат, только для работы))) шикарная работа, золотые руки!!!
Смотрю, наблюдаю, мастер рукастый, базара нет, но посмотрим на результат в итоге!
Всех благ только
Картинка в самом начале не соответствует железке. До сих пор не пойму, как он гусянки будет одевать.
Much better putting all the drivetrain parts on their own subframe. I was worried about that pillow block on the driven shaft being attached to the main frame crossmember the way it was before. The amount the engine end of the shaft moves would surprise you, no matter how rigidly you think your engine is mounted.
Much better clutch, that Comet Clutch wasn't built for 20hp.
The bolt design for your engine mounts needs larger holes and shouldered bushings so there's no metal to metal contact with the bolts. This is a good mounting scheme for a hydraulic unit, generator, compressor etc, but to accommodate the torque of a shaft drive system some nice liquid filled engine mounts on a wide stance would be a good choice.
Отверстия в уголках крепления агрегата желательно рассвелить поболее и поставить резиновые втулки от верхних штоков амортизаторов,(они с юбкой)чтобы крепежные болты не касались уголков.,иначе вся вибрация будет передаваться на кузов.С уважением!)
ябы в эти места поставилбы шайбы передних амортизаторов от ваз 2101 и верхние резинки,,бублики,, от тудаже былобы лучше.
Love to you from Pakistan. You are genius boy.i proud of you
I Just love watching you fabricate! It is so plain to see that you think it, you measure, you cut, you drill, you weld. Your vision comes to life! It is now reality. Perfect.
Just about to seat for dinner and this pops up, and 30', pretty good!!
Cheers!
Sat down with a glass of wine to watch hockey, saw Donny Dee's video.... Bye bye hockey!!
😂
Also Donn, you should invest into keyway broaches. I have two sets. For broaching 3/16" and 1/4" keyways. They were fairly inexpensive on ebay used. I believe I won both sets in nice little boxes, with the broaches and bushings for about $150.00 shipped
Damn, you got lucky! This would be great addition to my workshop.
Progressing nicely on the tracked vehicle Donn. Can't wait till your next video.
Congratulations! It's a good thing iheeding the advice! Только двигатель ты поставил неправильно,надо по шаблону вариатор настраивать. Ещё установи тормоз на ведомый шкив CVT.От велосипеда или скутера подойдёт. На будущее, лучше бери вариатор Арктика,он лучше с китайцем работает.
Пока смотрел "зайцев" нахватался,не уснуть )))
Your welds are excellent!! You are a very ingenious man and I love your videos. I live in Yuma Arizona USA.
I think your flexible joint is called a rag joint. Ford used to use them on steering columns.
Absolutely fantastic, you are amazing.
I've worked self employed as a custom fabricator for 45 years.
It is a true joy watching you, your skills are awesome.
I'm retired now, and in the process of building a 30' x 30' work-
shop, because I can't wait trying out some of my ideas.
Will be following you, keep up the good work !
I support the idea of building a nice work area. Ideas are worth bringing to life!
Very nice to see the hand skills with the big grinder etc...using the theory If it looks right then it should be right...
That’s thinking outside the box. Outstanding.
Consider to add small drain and vent holes in the frame tubes. Let the water evaporate once it gets there.
Very good progress. Your engineering is spot on. Regards, Solomon
Very nice. you got so many good ideas.. sometimes I wish I was there with you paying attention what you doing I like all you ideas thank you for all you videos God bless👍👍👍👍
That vehicle will make a member of the "Too Much Fun Club"! Pretty good.
I'd be a bit concerned about the side clearance between your head and the roll bar. If you do roll it there is a fair chance of hitting your head on the bar. I can tell you from experience that really hurts. I'd suggest either moving the bar back a bit further or widening it.
Apart from that it's looking really good. I can't wait to see it run :-)
very nice welding ,work with what you have get !!!
Make a rolling base for the other seat from the parts car, every shop needs a “thinking chair”. Keep up the great work. Also I like the new flex coupling, less weight?
I also like the power unit being a single package, removable and rubber mounted.
Sacré boulot pour fabriquer un engin qui passe partout 👍👏🔧🇷🇺
I would recommend vehicle body mounts for vibration dampening since they isolated the frames better. Just a suggestion
Nice,the important thing is you have the tools to get the job done ✔ 👍 copy that.. .....
Das ist fantastisch.
Gut gemacht.
Danke!
Thats one hell of a grinder and cut off blade.
Have been waiting on this video and suddenly it's there!
Keep up the good work!
Hi Donn. I love the improvements ! Has always I Liked,Shared,Added to playlists.
All my best.
Primitifer Im UrwaLT
Hi! I love your channel! I love the tank build!
For roll bar/crash bar I’m worried that you are using seam-welded tubing. That can split and injure the driver or passenger in an accident!
Make sure your tubing used in the roll bar/crash bar is thick walled tubing that is NOT seam welded!
Thanks for the great videos!
It takes a lot to split seam welded tube. I've seen plenty of twisted up and bent tubes but never one that has failed along the seam. Keep in mind also that this thing is not going very fast. That tube's plenty strong enough.
LesNewell ok I was just worried for Donn.
Maybe it's a dumb thought, but it might be worth while to make sure the bolt-holes of the coupler between the CVT and the transmission line up. That way if the rubber craps out in the middle of nowhere, it would be possible to connect the parts without the rubber. I mean the parts might take a beating, but you might make it home
That's a good idea. The holes line up too.
@@DonnDIY might be a good idea to make sure you can see the rubber in order to inspect it periodically too. An access hole or something depending on the final design.
The rubber looks like the sidewall of a large bias ply tire which is somewhat similar to the drive belt construction. Both of which can handle enormous stress and will show signs of deterioration before failing.
Nice call on the power pack, Better than welding it to the frame!
You should add cushions to both sides of the seat to hold you centered right to left. Like the race car seats.
O ruim dos teus videos é porque eles tem fim!!! Parabens , teus trabalhos são sensacionais!!!!!
Привет, приятно ждать и смотреть твои видео об етои конструкции. Работа большая и многа надо думать.
A CVT and a gearbox, OH the pornography of ratios, LOL. Awesome power pack. I built my riding mower with a vari drive and a gear box, I have 35 forward gears and 7 reverse, LOL.
It is always good to have options available. 💪😁
Комментарий в поддержку канала и ролика, а также труда мастера.
Wonderful fabricate, i like the way you do this job
Thank you!
Excellent 👍👍👍. Thanks for sharing
Молодец! Так же и продолжай, и успехов тебе!!!
Awesome work! If it doesn't work like you want, re-build it right. Congratulations!
Will you protect the inside metalwork with "bedliner"? The tough stuff you coat the bed of a pickup truck from rusting and scratching? It would add weight to your vehicle but would protect the framework from ever being scuffed and rusting. Mostly the hidden metal parts.
Donn, thanks for another great video.
I don't know what I'm gonna do about the floor just yet. 😀
@@DonnDIY Can't wait to see! Thanks for your response, means a lot to me.
In the tank world, building the engine and transmission into one removable unit is called a "power pack."
Wish you could make videos all day of this build it’s getting exciting
😉👍👍👍👍👍Daug darbo. Bet puikiai padaryta ačiu patiko.
Layout work was my favorite. Great video.
Excellent work, man
Looks like a washing machine good job fabrication welding machine ing
MIT in boston mass has nothing on your skill,s young man .your almost done from what i have seen so far you got this well in hand 😀😃😃👍👍
Let's hope so! 😁
@@DonnDIY thanks for your reply young man how are you going protect it with paint or powder coat & what color 🙄🙄??
Nice educational vedio, thanks for teaching us with proper details,
I have a question ⁉️
What's full form of (CVT) please..
Not worried about the flex coupling but am concerned about balance from the 2 bolts where the key was especially as you're not using a spigot bush on the gearbox input shaft. Your rubber mounts would work better if the holes were bigger and rubber was used inside the hole, it will wear the bolts through eventually. I like your welds though so it's not all bad 😀.
Bad ass bro!! Almost done.
Good weld.
Just when I thought you could not do it any Better ---- You Do !!!! You are truly amazing and your thought process for your builds are over the Top...This is going to be a beast !!!!!
Mulgimaa Eesti keeles
Back in prehistoric times in my high school welding class, my instructor taught us to use damp modeling clay to draw heat off metal near welds. We'd pack it in contact with the metal near whatever we wanted to protect from the heat and the clay would absorb the heat, preventing the rubber mounts or dampers from melting. It removed easily and would wipe right off.
I have been watching this series, enjoy very much, obviously a very skilled craftsman and fabrication expert. I have a question, the Track wheels seem to be solid with no suspension, no individual travel space, is that not an issue or is it intentionally that way?
Intentionally no suspension - the max speed is 35 kph and it's more of a crawler.
@@DonnDIY 😀👍
Not sure if it's ever going to be a issue, but the bolts you used in place of the key on the flex joint stick out quite a lot. It seems like you could reduce the profile of the bolts (and any vibration they may cause) by cutting off the heads and then cutting slits into the tops, thus effectively turning the bolts into flat head set screws.
I would suspect that those are only temporary and he is going to replace them with inhex grub screws to maintain the balance.
You're probably right. I guess it just pays to spell these things out sometimes, just to keep some fools on UA-cam for screaming at you.
If you make the holes ~50% larger in the tabs, you'll get significantly better isolation. The rubber will squeeze into the gap and prevent the stud from contacting the tab.
That's good advice!
@@DonnDIY Keep up the good work!
Nao vejo a hora de ficar pronto
Brother, you are an amazing fabricator. Love the videos.