73 Honda CB750 Custom Build Part 18 - Oil Pump
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- Опубліковано 12 лют 2015
- The oil pump is perhaps the most important component of the internal combustion engine. This video covers the inspection and rebuilding of a 1973 Honda CB750 oil pump.
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Due to mechanics here in Nicaragua know nothing about a cb Honda 750, I had to become the mechanic of my own bike. Thank you HACKAWEEK......
Tip on the sump ( or any other big gasket) is to make some screw on headless studs out of a fully threaded bolt with the head cut off and a screwdriver slot cut in the top. Put in a few of the holes and then place gasket on it, then you can have the cover slide on straight without the gasket either tearing or slipping. Put a few bolts in then simply unscrew the studs to fit those bolts. I used it a lot on Ford engines where you have a 4 piece sump gasket, to hold the 4 joins from slipping. Never had a leak after doing that from a gasket that was misaligned. As well with rubber/cork gaskets do not over tighten them, it will leak.
SeanBZA Good tip. I learned the hard way about cork gaskets getting squished and leaking about 30 years ago when I did my first auto trans service on a Dodge van I had. Leaked bad! I had the bolt WAAAAY too tight.
i have watched all these cb videos and all the saber vids to , it's sometimes hard to wait to see the next stage but at the same time i love how you show every little thing . keep em coming , you should have a much bigger list of viewers .
Let's make a drinking game - everytime Dino says "snug" let's have a drink. Probably all in AA-Meetings by next week. :D
I just want to say how much I enjoy these videos. Over the past few months I've watched all of them in this series (mostly in front of the fireplace with my two dogs) and I'm so stoked to see what happens next. I don't even own a television but I find myself glued to my laptop absorbing this knowledge you're posting. I have an '85 Nighthawk 650 that I'd like to rebuild and I find your videos to be so incredibly helpful and motivational. Thank you so much for sharing.
Hi Dean, really enjoying your vids!
Just a point on the orientation of the rotors - you'll notice they have a little punch mark or dimple on one side, which should always face outwards. It's important to re-assemble with the face that has the punch mark facing the correct way on all the rotors.
Norbert R Thanks. I need to annotate that!
***** btw. great videos man. i've been working on my cb750 for a few years now. your series was a great find. enough ass kissing though. my question is... i just too apart the the oil pump rotors. is there a specific orientation you put them back in? it seems to me that the two sets of rotors need to be opposite each other (where the punch marks are)
I have always loved electronics but when it comes to anything cars I am at a loss for interest. Watching this series of your restoration is slowly making me rethink automotive as an interest. Great video!
On my side I just love machines, cars and motorcycles are just my favorite kind among many others because they're awesome and fun of course but also because they're made of so many different systems... Electronic/electric, mechanical, esthetic, etc. You get to play with eveything! So when you bring these machines back to their former glory, you get the motivation and satifaction to try them out and know they will work perfectly because you put your energy in them.
Don't know why the subscription episodes from the previous several weeks did not show up but it turned out to be a great day to binge on the CB750 rebuild. Makes me miss mine more and more, damnit. Heheheh - great presentation and thanks so much for posting. Really admire your talent. ~ S ~
Great video, Dean! I've been following this rebuild closely, as I am working on my own rebuild (750 K4).
Regarding leak stopper valve: My understanding is the leak stopper valve engages when the engine isn't running in order to prevent the oil tank from draining down through the pump into the bottom of the crankcase. When the engine is running, the oil pressure created by the pump is sufficient to open the valve, allowing for the flow of oil throughout the engine.
How does the oil get from the external tank to the pump? And where does it get pumped out to?
Thanks for showing us how to take care of our pumps. Owner of a '76 cb750 super sport.
I have no interest in motorcycles or engines but I love these videos.
I have watched all your Sabre videos and now the CB videos. You do a great job - very watchable. Keep up the good work!
another great vid Dino. Phew lucky strike with the cracked plug...............would have been disaster time if that went during the engine run.............would have made a good episode though -CB750 rebuild after oil pressure failure!!!
good luck and keep em coming
What a precious work, again!
Congrats.
Yet another fine video Dean. Always a smart move to go through everything and be absolutely sure first. This time it pays off, big time. Of course it's always fun when things are in perfect condition as well. Lookin forward to the carb episode. Sure wish your videos were around when I was workin on my 77 750f SS. The Internet wasn't really a thing then...
Very interesting explanations !
Great videos!
looking so good man.
GREAT.. 1000 thanks for your video!! that really help me!!!
good show
awesome vid thank you
thanks for another great video Dino! I'm sure you know this, but an easy way (but not always there) to see if a screw is JIS is the dot punched into the screw head
bien! un video mas para disfrutar, un cordial saludo
good stuff
new camera? the quality is amazing. maybe it's my imagination.
Did you need to prime the pump before installing at all?
Dino, at 29.41, there appears to be a crack on the relief valve housing...maybe it's just a casting mark but considering the stress that has been previously applied to the cap I thought I'd point it out! Good work bud.
Looks about 10 - 12mm in length.
chr11sf Casting mark. They appear all over the place on this engine.
Why do you use Hondabond sometimes and Permatex aviation gasket maker sometimes? Your videos are a great resource. Thanks so much.
Hondabond where it's metal to metal and Permatex on the gaskets, usually.
Name Reggie have you ever work on a 77cb750a transmission IAM doing a rebuild and love all you videos they have help tremendously. If you got any tip let me know.
Really glad you checked that oil pump. That could have been a horrible oversight and ruined all your hard work. Love the vids!
As often happens I ought to have watched further. Now I understand the comment about o rings, now with my parts guy head on I'd have to say yes always use genuine. With my lowly paid parts guy head on though I never have a problem with using something cheaper if I can get it but I agree it's worth doing like you have and testing one in oil first. When I buy cheap handlebar grips or fork gaiters and they perish in months it's minor annoyance and I learn my lesson and buy genuine or better quality replacements but if a seal fails in an engine it gets expensive.
Hey, this rubber valve sits there just to let out air from oil to ensure that everything who is in lubricating system- just pure oil.
Dimple drill the rotor lubes the pump better. Chevy ls oil pump trick
I recall this mc was a dry sump engine lub system. Is there a scaveng pump somewhere? Maybe I missed that in your vid.
Any chance you will be doing a Triumph T120 Bobber or Board Tracker build in the future? That would be awesome with your long videos.
Do you have circular markings all through the casing and rotors I call them in your oil pump as I seem to have
what happened with part 17
would a 2ltr oil tank be ok on a k3?
Always prime the oil pump by bathing it in a container of oil and turn it by hand until the air bubbles burp out , otherwise that pocket of air trapped in there is a pain to get out upon spinning the motor to build up critical oil pressure . Ask me how i know...
Hey Devon, maybe you can help me. I'm getting ready to do this to my 74 750. However, I can't figure out if my symptoms are that of a pump needing to be rebuilt/replaced or if it's a main bearing issue. Oil pressure has been fine up until a couple rides ago. Now, instead of being at 60+psi at startup and 10-15 at idle while warm, it is at around 25ish at startup up at will dance from 0 to 1, maybe 2 psi at idle when warm. When riding and warm, it'll be at 22psi at 3k rpm. It did this once before during a ride but then returned back normal for a few weeks. Now, after a few rides, it has stayed consistently low. Thanks in advance.
We've always called that second valet a "low pressure bypass valve" or "failure bypass". I doubt Honda calls it either of those but that's close enough I guess..
I've since learned that it's function is to keep the oil in the frame mounted tank after the engine shuts down.
***** I remember now - you're right. Without it all the oil ends up in the bottom end when it's not running. The valve train would run without adequate lubrication when you fire it up until the oil pump musters enough pressure to feed the top end. That sounded good in my head - maybe I should have left it there...
Dino, you aren't supposed to mix rubber with petroleum unless its the right type of rubber. The oil will make the o-rings swell up and degrade very quickly. You might want to double check those o-rings are safe to use with petroleum products.
allez2015 I'll toss one is some oil for a week and we'll see how it does. :) Here's a usage guide for o-rings: www.marcorubber.com/materialguide.htm
1st.. Subscribed..
any idea how much this has cost so far (man hours + parts cost)?
Gulgonful 6 cases of beer. lol No idea at this point. Rough guess, including the original purchase price of $750 for the whole thing in boxes, about $1,100 and 80 hours.
***** good to know, keep up the good work. Can't WAIT to see this bike together.
At 14:00 when you are torquing down the plate it looks like a lip of the plate may be caught above the aluminium in the vice where the base is held. So I'm just a bit concerned you may have had an incorrect actual torque applied. I don't want something going wrong with the heart of your engine as soon as you fire it up.
Thanks. At 14:20 I checked that everything was indeed able to tighten down without being held up. :)
Gerotor/Trochoid oil pump
dont force anything... hits with hand lol 30:27
mii3000 Yep! Very observant. The dowel pins fit tight. They need a bit of persuasion. :)
Hope that machinist is not like some have i have dealt with in the past. Keeps any extras like hung dowel pins, metering valves etc still in the head lol. He might have sold you your own oil restrictors lol.
+Richard Schmidtendorff No. I asked previous owner and they were missing.
Sounds like you have dealt with dishonest hacks. It is not the way I do business and I have people from all over the world to vouch for that.
Mike Rieck
I need 2 ORIFICE, OIL CONTROL
12238-300-010
How do I get some.
Please get a metric torque wrench. All that furlong per 'F squared over cubits nonsense is dated.