Suspension Setup 101 Part 2 | How To Set Up Your Motorcycle Suspension | Practical Application
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- Опубліковано 11 вер 2024
- In part 2 of the Motorcycle Suspension series, I teach you how to apply the theory I taught in part 1. We cover basic sag measurements and settings, and setting up the compression and rebound damping.
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Link to Dave Moss video about stiction: • Ask Dave: Motorcycle F...
A great pair of videos thank you for taking the time to make and explain the video 🏍️👍🎉
Wow! This is the most comprehensive and most informative video i have seen on motorcycles to date. More please!
Best vid by far 👍 Thanks! Would love to see a video filming the dash explaining the steps also.
Great video only took me 2yrs to find
Great video! It was really valuable to see what good and bad looks like when bouncing your bike.
This is the best video series I have found on UA-cam on how to setup a suspension. Great job! Very clear on the process so even the amateur rider can dyi their suspension. I screenshot the table you had on the screen and I’m going to print a few out to use for my own use ! Oh and I love the aprilia tuono! I’m on a 2012 Bmw S1krr and will be adding an ape to the garage soon!
Thanks man! I can email you that table too if it makes it easier. You can DM me on Instagram and I can send it.
@@cwhitty05 that would be awesome. What is your Instagram name? MotoBuff?
@@Davemcmasters yeah it’s MotoBuff UA-cam channel
according to Dave Moss he personally told me during a remote adj. I paid him for when I got my '21 Tv4F. Elec. suspension you can't do static sag. Just rider sag.
Dave Moss is an expert, so I don’t have reason to doubt him, but that doesn’t make a lot of sense to me. The electronic suspension doesn’t have anything to do with the preload or sag. It only adjusts the damping as required by what it senses, or sets a fixed amount if you’re running a manual mode. The electronic suspension does not adjust spring tension or preload in any way. I will have to ask him why he said that. Maybe there is something I’m missing. Thanks for bringing it up.
@@cwhitty05 I took it, in a way, that is how the forks are constructed and adj. bike weight sag (static sag) isn't reliable until more weight (rider sag) puts real world stress on the.
If you like I can ask him. I pay his 'numbers' and I am a yearly subscriber to his website
By the way I suspect your setup will be quite harsh. You 11mm is not enough bike/free static sag in the front. You need to aim for about 25mm Front static sag on the Tuono. And rider sag (you in all gear) at 35-40mm.
Rear static sag aim for 12mm rather than 9. The Tuonos easily top out in the rear and that makes them harsh on the extension stroke. That will still have you in range for rear rider sag of about 39mm.
Ive had 15 Aprilias including 9 Tuonos. So have spent a lot of time on there suspension. Currently on a 2022 Tuono Factory.
Wow, thanks for the input. I’ve since sold my Tuono, but I’m sure this will help others who might read it.
I didn’t think my setup was that harsh if I’m honest, but I’m a mid-pack intermediate rider. One of the reasons I had it a little tighter, is I was bottoming the front forks without really riding that fast. I might’ve needed a heavier spring, and masked it by adding some preload.
@@cwhitty05 if you were primarily track riding then that would have been fine. But slightly more sag for road riding the Tuonos is ideal.
On a side nore; I think many (most) people dont understand how preload really works and most think that adding more will make the spring stiffer or harder, and reducing preload will soften a bike. However in reality all preload does is change the ride height. Thats it.
Any change in 'feel' that seems to be harder or softer is related to where the bike ends up sitting in its suspension stroke once we sit our chunky asses on it.
The springs dont get compressed when we wind on more preload. It simply raises ride height. The only time the spring gets compressed when we wind on preload is if the rear preload adjuster has been wound down the shock so much that the max ride height is reached and the shock is topped out. Any more winding down of the spring cant raise the bike any further and just compresses the spring.
@@scott2ride yessir, you are correct. I tried to explain what you just described in part 1 of this video series. Hopefully I did a good enough job, because like you said, most people don’t know that preload simply changes the ride-height.
I’ve been thinking about your first comment and the harsh ride. I’m wondering if the electronic damping smoothed it out for me while street riding. I almost never rode the bike in manual mode. Do you have a lot of experience with the electronic Öhlins? This was my first and only electronically damped motorcycle.
Hey @@cwhitty05 Yep I've had LOTS of time with the electronic Ohlins on the Tuono. I have the 2022 Tuono Factory.
Setup on the Aprilias is just like on a manual Ohlins. It is set up to show a little red 'bar' for each click out on the compression or rebound. It looks weird at first because lots of red showing implies its getting harder or stiffer, but its the other way around. So 10 red bars showing is the same as 10 clicks out.
The semi active Ohlins is pretty good on the 'auto' mode. It is meant to soften when you are cruising and firm a little when you start going hard. But I never noticed the difference.
Excellent videos keep it coming thank you
Very nice and helpful. Though not sure why you adjust rebound and compression at the same time. Two many variables…. :)
Well, you wouldn’t be wrong to adjust one thing, go ride it, and come back and adjust the other. But if you take it to an expert, they will adjust the preload, compression, and then rebound all in one go, then you go ride it. Once you get used to it, after a couple of track sessions you can bring it back and they will fine-tune it for you. So you can do one at a time, or both together. I don’t think either way is wrong. It’s personal preference.
So the zip tie moves 5mm ?
Just a suggestion not to use a front stand when doing this as it stops the forks moving smoothly. Instead, you can try to balance the bike next to a side wall to hold you up, or better still, have someone help you. They can hold the rear when you bounce the front and can hold the front when you bounce the rear up and down. I'd normally do the bouncing by bouncing up and down on the pegs when checking the riser sag.
I would do Compression and rebound adjustment separately so you can see and feel the changes without one effecting the other.
But the rest of the info was excellent.
Wow I have my 3rd aprilia tuono v4 whit electronic suspension and Just now because your video i learned that you can spin around the fron top of the forks to setup the sag i dint know that thank you very much. Great video. So let and right fork need to be the same amount of turns is that correct?
Thanks for watching and I’m glad to hear you learned something! I would set the preload on each fork the same, yes.
What about passenger setting? Or was that in video 1 lol?
You will 100% use more travel with a passenger on board. If it is a temporary situation where you don’t ride a lot with a passenger, I wouldn’t worry about it, unless you have a hydraulic preload adjuster like my bike. It only takes a minute to crank in a turn or two of preload. If you’re constantly riding with a passenger, especially if you’re riding hard, it might be worth it to adjust the bike with your passenger on board. Likely though, you will run out of preload adjustment before you get the proper total sag. In that case you’d need a heavier spring. But honestly for most sportbike riders, it’s really getting in the weeds to adjust preload for 2 up riding. Just throw a turn or two of preload in, put 2-3psi more pressure in the rear tire, and go ride.
Thanks for the tip when riding 2-up. Just to be clear, you're recommending increasing rear preload by one to two full turns, correct?
Hi can you turn in the front forks preload fully in will the springs still work ? Because I'm hevy or you can make only copel turns on the forks preload? Thank you
The springs will still work if you turn them both fully in, yes. However, without measuring, you have no way of knowing if that’s correct for your weight. If you use the zip tie method I mentioned (might have been in part 1 of this series), and the zip tie is all the way at the bottom of the fork leg, you don’t have enough preload. If at that point, you are fully turned in, you will need to see a suspension expert to fit you with stronger springs.
If you want to skip the measuring part and just use the zip tie method, you want the zip tie to be about 1/2-1 inch from the bottom of the fork leg. That will give you a safe travel range without bottoming.
@@cwhitty05 thank you very much for reply. Your videos are amazing help please keep up the great work 👍🏻👍🏻 I was thinking if you turn down fully front preload I think is 14 turns down the springs will not work because they are to much compress. I will go whit the zip tay.
@@MrDamient5 even with the preload turned to its max setting, the spring won’t be fully compressed in the fork. The suspension will still be able to travel to its lower limit and bottom out.
@@cwhitty05 thank you again 👍🏻👍🏻