Floyd Rose Doesn't Stay In Tune? Solved
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- Опубліковано 28 січ 2020
- Hey hope this helps anyone with a floyd rose setup that refuses to stay in tune. Let me know if you'd like an in depth tutorial in setting up your guitar, or at least the way I do mine.
Thanks for tuning in again, feel free to email me with any questions at Lambchopper678@me.com Subscribe to the channel and follow on me Facebook lambchopper6...
I’ve been battling tuning issues in my Floyd for the past six months and was convinced I had a problem at the bridge. I tried your advice on the nut and it worked perfectly- cheers mate!
Just going through the same thing now, I’ve been looking at videos for setting up a Floyd rose bridge for a week now just to learn that it’s most likely not staying in tune due to the locking nuts and not having a retainer bar 😂
Never had any problems with my floyd's, but can't hurt to learn what to do just in case.
Lucky
so guys. lesson learned. 90% of it is in the nuts!
anything is possible, use piss to glue guitars together is best
Deez nuts.
whoa man, GOLDEN advice on the nut moving! I had a problem driving me crazy, I thought it was a faulty neck, thruss rod, whole guitar.... you saved me...
You're a miracle worker!
One of your tricks worked for an old Jackson I have that for the life of me wouldn't stay in tune. I tried every trick in the book (I thought) and somehow stumbled upon this video of yours... immediately grabbed my old miserable Jackson that refused to stay in tune. Glued the nut down (it was already on there pretty tight, but what the heck... it won't be moving again until someone grabs a hammer and chisel.
Then I took the three Floyd Rose locking nut pieces off and flattened the bottoms of them with a sharpening stone. Re-strung and tuned it up, and to my absolute astonishment it not only stays in tune, I can even do full-on whammy dive bombs on the thing and it stays in tune!
Holy crap! I can't remember the last time that near ancient (90's) guitar could do that.
Thanks LambChopper!!!
Killin' with these back-to-back uploads my man! Good, informative video. Rock on buddy
Thanks for these great tips! I was trying and researching for hours, but my Floyd Rose was out of tune so easy. So tip 1 and 2 fixed it in 2 minutes 😎
Oh dude, you just probably helped me fix a guitar that I recently bought. So I bought this Ibanez GIO GRGA42T, has EMGHZ's, Edge III bridge and stuff, but it wouldn't stay in tune. I noticed a clicking noise every time I used the bar, and you described it's in the nut, which I thought was the issue, and that's probably why it wouldn't stay in tune. So thank you very much for making this video, cause I probably have a gotten a great deal on a guitar now!
Ibanez Edge III tremolo bridge has an hidden screw behind and under the bridge itself to tighten-up the bar with the appropriate Allen key.
Download this Ibanez operation/maintenance manual in PDF from this website www.manualslib.com/manual/540824/Ibanez-Edge-Iii-Tremolo.html
Also, be careful with angle of saddles, it's not a Floyd Rose or trademark from those designs. It's an Ibanez design, thus the proper ''parallel angle'' isn't measured at the base of the tremolo. Examine technical drawings carefully...
This guy to this day still tells me the bridge on his guitar is garbage LOL
Thanks for the great tips👍 I’m having it staying sharp when I pull up on the bar, so I’ll check those things you mentioned out
When you was talking about the saddles at the top of the neck. I once had a problem with them this one time. I couldn't undo the saddle nuts, so I used WD40 spray to unlock them. It wasn't the saddles that make nuts stick, it was the make of string that I was using. So I went back to the make of strings that I had on the guitar before and the saddles nuts was fine after that.
I don't even lock the nut for a long time now, just tensioned enough to keep the screws in but still use the tuners for quick changes from standard to E flat, it holds tune just fine even after whanging on some Slayer
Well done! I was chasing a very slight change in tuning on my 3rd string and found one of the nut screws was slightly longer than the other. Just enough to “touch” the nut lock. Swapped them about and GTG! Cheers mate!
I was about ready to throw my guitar out the window with older style floyd rose until I saw your video. I have the kind of nut that has two allen screws in the back of the neck. I just tightened them up and it is back to how it used to be. I can dive bomb all day long and it stays in perfect tune now! Thanks man! I can't believe I never thought of this being the culprit?!
Nuts that are screwed on the back are actually the most stable ones. You tighten up and they last forever
Great video!!! Great trouble shooting tips!! One of those tips will surely fix my issues!!! Thank you! Cheers!
His advice on replacing the nut locks worked. I tried so many other things. I have 6 guitars with Floyd's. The more you know!
very good information....cheers mate keep up the good work man
Sweet, can't wait to give it a go. It's such a frustrating problem especially with a Dean. Cheers for the vid
The tree helped the tension on my KVXMG Slime I didn't see how it was slightly curved too tuner's great advice man
That poping sound of the string in the nut is exactly what I experience when I’m touching my tremolo. Finally I know what to do lol
sometimes the knife edges can get chipped from the action being adjusted while tension on the bridge, that can cause issues too with tuning.
Note that the clamping surfaces of a Floyd Rose locknut are curved, not flat. Be careful when sanding them.
great timing..i just bought a floyd rose guitar justnow! thanks!!
If you hate it...you can simply block it and get a hard tail...with arguably less sustain than the one you should have bought :) Or use things like a tremel NO...like i did for my brand spanking new charvel...I knew what I was getting into...so I had the tremel no blocking system even before I had the guitar (spoiler...the tremelno system is not perfect and has so,e mechanical play which makes it impossible to fulfill its promises if you use it as intended...there are some workarounds though)
I tried the epoxy under the nut lock trick you mention in this video on my Dean Dime Slime as I have a problem with the pitch being raised or lowered when using the whammy bar. It still has the same issue.... damn.... was worth a try. I reckon it's probably the floyd posts/casing slightly moving.
Great video mate...can i ask a random question, where did you get that pick guard? I guess its not standard for the Adrian Smith sig. i need one for my So-Cal, i dont like the single ply pick guard it came with...
One simple thing to check with a Floyd is to make sure that when you lock your nut down, the top plates are centered and not riding on the top or bottom teeth of the nut. If you have tuning issues(say with the d and g string)from bending or playing with the bar, the plate holding those two strings is probably the culprit
very helpful video! I just got a used guitar with a FR (LTD EC-1000, with a 1000SE FR) and I had to use your filing trick... it's working well now.
Question though, unrelated to tuning: I noticed in this video your whammy bar flops down and doesn't have resistance, but in some of your other vids with other guitars, the bar will somewhat hold its position when you let go of it. Is that due to the type of Floyd? My bar is floppy and I would prefer that it has some more resistance/retain its position. I've tightened it (both from the top, and I took off the backplate and tried to tighten the Allen key but it's already tight), but it's still floppy. Any tips?
Would love an in depth tutorial on setting up a guitar! Especially the Adrian Smith Jackson I just bought one :)
I’ve been messing with my ‘86 Kramer so much over the last year I’ve shelved it in favor of my fixed bridge Schecter. I’m gonna try the epoxy trick as I suspect it’s the nut shifting slightly due to age.
Great video. I've also heard not to adjust the height of the bridge while it's under string/spring tension. It can dull the knife edge and cause 'flat spots'. Only one of my really has an issue where if I pull the notes sharp with the bar, they remain a little sharp until I depress the bar (note flat). It's only that one guitar (of 4 floyd guitars), but I'll check the nut when I get home.
I have the same problem. What did you end up replacing? My Floyd posts may need replaced cause of 90s guitar weardown. But new Floyd has been installed.
@@ducte1213 It's been a while, but I think replacing the springs and breaking them in fixed it for that one guitar. If you need a replacement trem, the Gotoh GE1996T is affordable and (imo) the best trem you can get. Just be sure it fits as the dimensions are a tiny bit different. Biggest downside is that the Gotoh trem uses different post spacing. You can re-use Floyd posts, but you'll miss out on the locking feature of the Gotoh posts. I've filled stock holes and re-drilled the post holes on a couple guitars, but that's a bit extreme. Otherwise, Original Floyd Rose is the go to for a replacement. Floyd Rose 1000 series if you can find a used one at a good price. Just stay away from Floyd Rose Specials if you plan to keep the guitar a long time. Specials are great while they last, but they tend to wear out in a couple hundred hours of playtime
@@NathanMichalik checking it out now. Looks pretty solid! I pull the hell out of that tremolo so durability and tuning is key. Thank you for the info!
Thanks for good advice!
I have a problem with my Ibanez jr all notes stay tune except for small E which keeps getting out of tune when ever I do a bend in the string or used the wammibar. I need help
Thank you. Great video
popped a string last night and replaced it now my rrx24 will not stay in tune, it perfectly stayed in tune before but now it’s a struggle… should I just replace the entire set of strings?
My new Floyd Rose guitar is amazing but all of the strings keep going really sharp even when I’m not messing with the whammy bar. Yesterday I kept trying to tune down to drop C but it kept going sharp. I will try a few of these methods to try and help my problem
1 issue I had a couple years ago was on my jackson dk2m pro and the jackson branded floyd. The knife edge chipped and would not return to tune if you touched the bar. Think the model of the floyd was jt590 or something like that. Took out my old 80's original floyd rose, slapped it in and not a problem since. Now all 12 of my floyd guitars have originals in them, built like a tank.
That 1 original floyd has been in at least 6 different guitars thru the years and have never needed to replace a single part on it.
When I can afford I will upgrade mine with original floyd too. Definitely worth the money
Great tips.
A lot of 80s metal guys in my area are buying Floyd Rose axes for the first time around now...me, personally, I went through that in about 2003 just after I’d graduated high school & I had no idea about Floyd Rose tremolo’s when I went out looking for a Floyd Rose equipped guitar... and I bought an Ibanez RG220B (which had a Floyd Rose Bridge which didn’t lock at the saddles...) and I gave up for about 3 months & then I grabbed a navy blue Jackson Professional RR3 (Randy Rhoads Flying V) equipped with a double-locking Floyd Rose bridge & so, I couldn’t keep that one in tune either and I started googling and searching UA-cam and through all my research and all my experimentation what I’ve found is that the proper function of a Floyd Rose Bridge is dependent entirely on there being a *PERFECT BALANCE* between the tension of all six strings and however many tremolo springs are pulling back against the string tension on the bridge... so, I figured out how to increase/decrease the pull by the tremolo springs (by adjusting the tremolo claw screws) & I repainted _”Dimeslime” (neon yellow to neon green burst)_ & rebuilt my Ibanez RG220B, swapped locking saddles onto it, put a Schaller sure claw in place of the tremolo spring & two Göldo Back Box tremolo stabilizers with 3 green Floyd Rose Noiseless tremolo springs in it, a Seymour Duncan SH-13 Dimebucker in the bridge position & a Seymour Duncan SH-1n ‘59 _(neck)_ in the neck position... with the tremolo which returns to pitch through my Marshall JCM 800, it’s *KILLER*
So in other words. Adjust your bridge so it is flat using the spring screws in back.
@@airpros9927
That’s how you gotta do it…and it has to be balanced perfectly…using the screws in back, Unless you have a Schaller SureClaw, an Ibanez _Edge Zero,_ or an Ibanez ZR _(Zero Resistance)_ Tremolo with a ZPS system, which all make adjusting the tension easier and don’t utilize the screws…
Awesome man
Thank You So Much 😊
Mine keeps making the notes go flat, I'll tune it up with the fine tuners, play chords and it'll stay in tune all day, start playing solos and bending strings, all the strings will go flat. Any help is appreciated.
And if the saddle is new and the D string keep popping out? And then you change the saddle and the string keeps popping! :|
I get that popping sound in the nut with my new Jackson Soloist SLX and I thought it was maybe the graphite rods used in the neck. I'm going to replace the crappy Floyd Rose Special with an Original... the mounting studs and locking nut too... hopefully that ceases that aggravating noise.
Good info!
I’ve got about three of those problems on my Jackson JS32 Dinky series and it’s 4 months old
Yeah just got a dean stealth and every time I use the whammy bar it goes outta tune
When you said you heard something the bulb went off! Loosened the blocks and dumped the bar, it wasnt looseloose but under tension there would definatly be movement, toothpicked the holes and dabbed a bit of glue under there. Fingers crossed!
Thank you!
Ok so everyone says to tune it lock it amd keep repeating until the strings are stretched but i cant even do that as soon as i turn any of the other keys the one i just tuned goes out of tune. I cant get all 6 strings to even stay in tune for me to lock it
If I try 1 mm shorter screw for my nuts than the originals longer screws ,It that works better or
Thanks for the video. Just discovered mine doesn't stay in tune if using the whammy (abused it pretty badly for a few minutes so I could see what happens). Low E went reeeeally flat, some went sharp (can't remember anymore but out of whack the whole thing). Otherwise stays in tune just fine, only the low E sometimes is a little bit (b)itchy. When I bought it (3 m ago), I was told it went through a complete maintenance and setup, so this wasn't a nice surprise. :/
I just took a closer look and looking on the bridge from behind (from the bridge towards the neck) I noticed the bridge is not even! It sinks a bit more on the low E side... My wild uneducated guess is it's not a correct position. Wonderful. I hoped I won't have to deal with learning the complete setup so early on but I guess that's what I'm gonna learn next...
I actually don't need to use the whammy ATM but I can't restring it and leave it like this...!
I have the same uneven issue, how did you level it out?
@@yes-12321 Actually, that might not be an issue at all. It means that the other side has set the action lower than the other side (usually the treble side is lower).
So, if you want it completely even, you have to raise the action/lower the other one but it might not be play well then... (if it plays well now)
My Floyd has tons of issues, first was wrong setup (I corrected that) but there are other issues, still unresolved, like f.e. the pickguard is in contact with one corner of the trem which on its own will prevent the bridge from working correctly.
The check list is longer and some of the issues are specific to the model I have.
If your bridge returns in tune just fine after using it, I wouldn't worry about it.
thank you Rick Beato
Someone could write for me what he said about fix the nut movement so I can translate? I couldn’t understand :(
Road to 100K!!
Thin sticky 2 sided tape on the bottom of the nut and white glue in the screw holes helps keep the locknut from shifting
Does anybody have fine tuners that choke up and limit their range? I don't know if there's foreign matter down the thread well... if I can call it that, but I have some fine tuners where the distance/range they can go is badly limited.
Can you unscrew those all the way, clean all of that with like WD40 I guess, and get them back in?
is there a better position to put the fine tuners in when changing and tuning the strings. Is it better to put them screwed half way or more loose since the strings will stretch I know we need to make sure the fine tuners can have enough travel to tighten enough but if you go to far in when changing them, the fine tuners might bottom out too soon.
I set mine pretty much in the middle, maybe slightly loose 🤘🏻
how tight should the screws be on the nut? and Allen wrench tightens only so much, now if the the nut is tighten correctly there shouldnt be any movement I assume.
A touch of glue really helps under the nut. The screw holes are larger than the screws so it moves pretty easily even when the screws are tight. There’s a fair bit of lateral tension from the strings
So I have this exact same guitar. Still brand new, but I’m wanting to upgrade some of the FR parts, with parts from another guitar that’s been upgraded (block, springs, claw & screws) but am wondering if there’s an “easiest”/“safest” way to swap out said parts. As well as any other pointers &/or things I should be aware of before I get into it
Not really, I just relieve string tension before doing anything. Other than that they’re built pretty solid
@@LambChopper678 Right on man. I really appreciate the reply. Didn’t expect to get a response this soon, being that the video is a few years old. So am I correct to assume that all shit is pretty universal/interchangable? Also, will I not need to remove the entire trem system, to swap out the block?
Nice video! I bought a Washburn Mercury, which i’m loving,and i’m loosing intonation. It was lacking of the string retainer, and one of the locking nut screws( little E and B) is dusted, probably because the string retainer was missing!
Cheers!
I had a red metallic with white pickguard black hardware Washburn mercury series paid like $900 back in 93 Japan hands down one of the best guitars I ever played if you see one definitely do yourself a favor and play it you won't want to put it down power loyalty and respect Fresno CA
i think my issue is about the studs i checked them but they were very viggly
1. loose hardware: bridge posts, nut screws, claw screws. 2. clearance issues: bridge routing, spring cavity routing, ground wire vs claw and springs. 3. wear and tear: dull knife edges, worn posts. 4. inadequate break angle above the nut - strings go sharp when locked - hold-down bar too high or missing.
does anyone know if a b.c.rich floyd is worth it?
Here's one that's not covered in this video: One of the mounting studs is loose. The way to tell this one is if the pitch changes in tuning, sharp or flat, depending on if you press down or pull back on the tremolo. You'll be able to make it sharp or flat and go back and forth just by pushing or pulling the trem.
This same exact issue occurs in the same way if the knife edges or mounting studs are chewed. This is usually caused by turning the mounting studs while they're under tension. Don't ever do that. In that cause you need a new base plate and mounting studs.
I feel this is more common than people realize.
Thank you!
If they’re going out of tune that’s one thing, but even a brand new bridge will have a few cents difference between the return from a dive and the return from pulling up. You just won’t notice because it’s only a few cents and the strings stay in turn with eachother.
Question: my Floyd floats. I can get it in tune but once I dive bomb, it’s goes flat when it returns to normal position. If I pull up on the bar it stays sharp when it returns to normal position. Any thoughts on how to fix this?
That’s a strange one, it’s usually the opposite. Maybe something to do with the springs not returning properly. Old or cheap? They might be touching the plastic cover or fowling on something. That’s where I’d start
Thanks !!
Hi thanks a lot, this is crucial info for me, I bought a new Fender Player Strat - I knew the "FR SPECIAL" trem was going to be rubbish, so I ordered a Schaller Lockmeister , I had researched as much as my tiny brain could stand and when the thing arrived it was relatively easy to install, used new 9-42 Ernie Ball strings and it goes out of tune relentlessly, I SO regret spending everything I had on this lovely looking utterly useless guitar. I refuse to block the trem, I will probably loose £300 or more selling it, totally gutted, I will try all of your suggestions.
BTW I am not new to Floyds; I had a Kramer in the 80s with a Floyd on it and was great (but I didn't use a digital tuner in those days) so maybe I'm too obsessed with tuning, but I think this is going to be the last locking trem I ever trust, I have a Revelation Jazzmaster with a 6 point non locking trem and it stays in tune superbly, (just doesn't sound as sweet as the Fender) I may just sell the beast and buy a Fender Player with a standard trem, just wish I hadn't
trusted the reviews or Schaller as a manufacturing company, the locking nut is very badly machined..
Update: I filed the locking nut, araldited the nut down as you advised, increased the springs to 4, put graphite and Chapstick on the knife edges and upped the string gauge to 10-46. Significant improvement in tuning stability now, thanks a lot!
Do you ever have an issue with the 'blades' becoming worn? Will that have an effect on the FR staying in tune?
Apart from not pivoting as well as it should the intonation maybe affected as it wears. I try to back the tension off the strings before changing bridge height. They shouldn’t wear very fast if you do that.
@@LambChopper678 Thanx for your reply very much Sir mate! You play very well.
I can't understand what epoxy Lamchopper recommended? Sounded like Arrow Dart epoxy......?
I’m sure they all have different names around the world. Here in Aus we use araldite 5 min epoxy
It's actually the back spring with majority of these "licensed" or "edge 3" bridges. They use crappy springs at the back. Replace them and it's fixed most of the time
Why the springs? What do better springs help with specifically? I always thought it was the saddle blocks coming loose and causing the strings to slip.
How in tune is considered PERFECTLY in tune for a FR? It seems a lot of people have guitars that stay in tune with respect to the guitar itself...it plays open chords ok and it seems in tune after using the whammy bar...but If you use a tuner or play along with in tune backing tracks you can hear and see that the tuning does shift a little bit. Can a floyd rose or any other floating trem for that matter really ever be perfectly in tune ever? Like peterson strobe tuner pitch perfect before and after heavy or even moderate trem movement??
My guitars return accurately after whammy abuse. Once you stretch the strings in and have it set up correctly it’ll maintain pitch.
@@LambChopper678 seriously? Every string... After completely dumping to the max 10 times? Not a cent shift on a good tuner?
I’ll do it tonight. Dump it to nothing 10 times and abuse it.
I’ll post exact results from Charvel, Jackson SDX and Alexi 600.
It’d actually make a good video to compare.
@@LambChopper678 wow nice..thanks!
Charvel So Cal - E A D were solid G B dropped 3 cents E dropped 1 cent
Jackson SDX - Never returned exactly the same, range was between 0 and -5 cents for all strings
Alexi 600 - anywhere from -5 cents to +5 cents all strings
🤘🤘🤘
I've never had my Floyd go out of tune. I also don't understand why so many hates them? They are not hard to setup and restring.
That floyd rose special trem in Jackson Adrian Smith sdx suck!
I love the neck and look of this guitar but the main reason i didn’t play it is because that frs.
Upgraded it with original floyd rose it cost as buy this guitar brand new…
Floating bridges are a nightmare.
Dude ive had the same problem on my jackson warrior. It was made in china and the quality control on it was freaking ass. I replaced the nut and brindge with a real original floyd cuz it had the cheap jackson ones on it. And i found that the nut even when replaced with a better one was moving just the slitest bit and its been two years just sitting in my room not being able to play it because the bridge has two spots itll stop in deping on if you dive or pull. I tried filing down the wood to make it sit better and i had to put dowls in where the screws go cuz the screws where crooked. And now its like imposible to fix. I finally just went online and ordered a new neck so that i could seat the nut on the new neck myself and do it right. And glue it down so it doesnt move. I havent found any one else online that seggusted the same thing that i thought was the problem.(the nut moving). And not even guitar center tech thought it was that. But if you have a good eye and you look really close it moves the tiniest amount. And if they didnt seat the nut in very well its gonna cause problems. Its the quality controll on these guitars that needs to be fixed too. This was a brand new guitar 600 dollars and right away had problems.bs
5. nut slots too narrow / dirty / clogged.
I'd say 98% of the time it's the floyd nuts. I've had little to no problems with the floyd unit itself. I've had horrendous situations with floyd nuts. For instance, I once worked on an ESP/LTD guitar that came with a Floyd rose 1000 bridge and wanted it replaced with an original. When I took the 1000 nut off, ESP had a shim....quite a thick one, under only the low E and A strings but the rest were not shimmed. When I put the new "original" nut on, nothing was right. I placed the shim back under the Low E and A strings and those strings didn't buzz but the D buzzed, the B and High E had sitar noise. Most of the strings were way too low. The only string that really didn't give me any problems was the G string oddly enough.
I prefer to use feeler gauges as shims. They're metal so they won't flatten more etc. Depending on the brand they fit quite nice once you cut them to fit. You do have to drill the holes in them for the mounting screws. I don't like using the Shims that you can buy pre-made because they are at set thicknesses like 0.1mm, 0.2mm whereas with feeler gauges I can get 0.203mm, 0.127mm etc. On that guitar I tried a .002" feeler gauge and that wasn't enough. I tried a .008" and that was too much. I kept the bridge height at about 2.00mm bass side and 1.7-1.8mm treble side during every test and was surprised at how much the feel of the guitar changed. Even though the bridge height was kept at 2.00-1.8mm, the .008" shim made playing very hard and difficult. While a .003 was easy to play with a lot of buzzing.
I ended up using .005" feeler gauge for all strings and then cut a .002 and .003" gauge for the two bass and two treble strings. So it had .005" under all strings, the .003 under the bass side and .002 treble side and that guitar played like a wet dream! The action was very low with no buzzing. Do NOT listen to luthiers who say that when doing nut height and putting a capo on the 3rd fret the strings should not touch the 1st fret, there should be visible clearance. That is actually wrong. They can touch the 1st fret but not hard. In other words barely touching that 1st fret. You can still fit a business card under the strings at the 1st fret but there's a little drag when placing the business card underneath...that is what you want. This will give really really great low action.
With all of this said, if you find yourself playing with the bridge heights to get something you like...it's very possibly not the bridge. It's the nut. The nut also affects the string height and buzz.
I’m using a brand new system. There is no wear and tear. Im not going sharp. I’m consistently going flat and it’s not just when using the whammy, it’s at all times. Just seconds after adjusting the fine tuners the strings start going flat. The nut is tightened adequately. The bridge is parallel to the body. The saddles are tight enough. Why are the strings still slipping
You’ve stretched them all in and they’re not rubbish strings?
My floyd rose is totally detunig even after locking, like almost a full E toD
i bought a floyd rose today, took me 3 hours to set it up, the spring tension, leveled bridge to body, tuned to E, locked the nut, i leave the guitar standing for 30 mintues and its out of tune, i retune it, go shopping, come home and its out of tune again, not even played it let alone use whammy, oh man...its frustrating
I think I need to do another instruction
@@LambChopper678 please do, and a demonstration if possible
Hey man, that Jackson.. is it Indonesian made or USA ? Is your Floyd the "Original" or "Special" ?
I've got the Indonesian model and it has the original so I would hope the USA model does
You'll find Flyod Rose Specials on $1000 + guitars they are real Flyod Rose and fantastic systems
Was using 7 gauge strings on 25.5 scale length, causing loss of tuning. Now use 9 gauge, stays in tune now.
i had lamb tonight
🎸🤟🍻
Popped a brand new string cause I had to keep tightening the string to tune.......hwdhsisi
Here's a more specific scenario: what do you say about when the strings go out of tune but uniformly? As in, they all go sharp or all go flat but stay relatively tuned, its never one or two strings out of tune, but all strings. And like i said, they stay relatively tuned to each other, just either flat or sharp. Only happens after I use the whammy.
I have an issue with my G string. Everytime I bend the string or do dive bombs with the floyd, it goes flat (a little with bendings, but a lot with dive bombs), the floyd is floating so it will detune a little the other strings but is almost imperceptible, except for the G. Also, when I pull up the bar it goes very sharp.
This happens only with my G string.
I'm gonna try putting a little bit of graffite with a pencil in the saddle of the string, maybe it gets stucked somwhere there.
Any other suggestions?
Most likely cause of that would be the two knife-edges of the bridge getting a bit worn-out, or the v-grooves in the two pivot-studs getting a bit worn, if they all look okay you can try smearing some Chapstix lip-balm in the v-grooves, it acts as a lubricant.
Ready to snap my guitar in half
I have the same problem...going sharp...i thought it was the saddle but will check my nuts out ;)
something with such minimal (if any) benefit shouldn't create such issues. It works for some people sometimes. I would lose my job producing that kind of work.
Floyd Rose System aren't that Complex like everyone says ! I never had Problems with Tuning and so on !
Lmbo..."..a bee's dick.." gotta use this now at work
No problems with mine
You forgot the most important thing. The springs! Yeaaahh.. I had to add extra spring to fix my tuning problem. Springs on new guitar were soft and not broken in, so I reached out for some old old springs from my old 80s Vintage guitar and the problem was immediatly fixed.
Nobody:
Kurt Cobain: 0:13
I broke a string trying to fix this before 😑
Finally the fake taxi guy revealed his face. I'm okay now.
Want to have good tuning stability with a floyd rose? Block it
The only people who have a tuning problem with a Floyd Rose are those who don't have it set up properly.
Blocking a floyd is like clipping the wings of an eagle.
@@CCHPOUNDER420 Most prophetic statement of 2021. Bravo.
That intro video of people smashing their guitars was painful to watch ngl 😓
Maybe u won't trust me but I didn't find guitars with Floyd Rose in my city...
where do you live bro
@@iamabominati0n970 in Kazakhstan...
@@baeshev yeah i figured
what about it elsewhere and shipping it to you?
@@iamabominati0n970 shipping is very expensive and I was looking for in another cities but I didn't find anything
@@iamabominati0n970 just classic strats