Not sure how I never came across this video. I recommend the Maptun ESID3. This nifty little OBD plug-in captures and monitors engine parameters that don’t throw codes. An invaluable little device for this V6 motor.
I have an 06 SportCombi. Great car but coils are the weak point. I had one coil fracture on cylinder 6 and leave the dielectric goo and plastic bits around the plug. I believe the failure mode is internal arcing within the high voltage side of the coil which leads to added heat causing higher internal pressure leading to fracture. Cleaned up very carefully preventing it from dropping into the combustion chamber. Change coils as soon as misfires are detected. I bought Auto Enginuity PC based Scan Tool in about 2009. I use the On-Board Test Results tab to tell me which coil is going bad. The coils will typically start misfiring while slowly accelerating from about 50 to 70 mph and will be felt in the seat of your pants and show on the computer when connected. I get used coils from a wreckers and test them in the front bank using the computer. Store coils in low humidity locations such as in the house. Remove the rubber boot on the coil and clean any oxides off the ends of the contact spring with a light fine grit sand paper. Some oxides are electrically insulative. Try to only use Bosch type. Made in China are crap and fail very soon. I also have had some female pins on the vehicle's OBD connector push out the back. Need to unscrew the connector, pull the loose pins out and adjust the pin prongs which hold them in the connector. Mark from Hamilton, Canada.
Thanks Baird,I'm a pretty good experienced wrench on SAAB and BMW but any time you tear into an unfamiliar engine it's good to know where the delicate parts are and you pointed all this out clearly and I was able to give it the ignition tune up it needed. My wife thanks you as well, it's her car. It was missing with the A/C running so I looked you up and problem solved. Great tutorial, keep 'em running cause there ain't no new SAABs.You might mention that one manifold vacuum line in the rear up top has a push in connector to get it to release. Luckily I discovered that before anything broke.
@baird great video, you might want to add ignition coil in the title of the video. This is my second time coming back to this video thanks! BTW the back coil is coil #5 on the 07 B284L. Front one driver side is coil #6. Pretty sure that is consistent on these 2.8L.
On this page: www.motor.com/magazine-summary/gm-3-6l-engine-problems-eye-electronics-november-2013/ you'll want to read the whole thing about these engines, esp this: The fly in the ointment is oil usage. Typically, the change engine oil soon light will turn on somewhere between 8000 and 12,000 miles. If the engine is using a quart every 2000 miles, it’s obvious it will run out of oil before the light comes on. A check with Identifix shows that, unfortunately, this is not a rare occurrence. A quick search came up with more than 50 hits for low oil. Interestingly, the first sign of this problem is sometimes a trouble code for a cylinder misfire or a camshaft sensor. What happens is that when the oil level is low, the cam phasers do not get enough oil to move consistently in response to the engine control computer. This effectively results in bad valve timing, which can result in poor in-cylinder mixture control.
Great video. I had to replace a coil on #2 cylinder. Luckily it's on the front cylinder bank. I have a 2008 9-3 Aero convertible with 102,000 miles which runs flawlessly with one exception. I get an occasional P0193 code. Had the code with the OEM fuel pump. Replaced pump with a Carter pump and still got intermittent code. Car runs and starts great even with code present. Replaced FPS with new Bosch FPS. No change. If car sits overnight no code thrown. If restarted with engine at normal operating temperature, code will be thrown occasionally (maybe once every 10-15 hot starts) but not all the time. Seems to be more prevalent on extremely hot days. Since the fuel system on the 2.8L is a non-return system, could the pressure of the fuel in the fuel rail raise above spec due to engine and ambient heat soak? I have a fuel pressure test set, as I have been unable to find a repair manual to cover my 2008 9-3 Aero with the 2.8L V6 could anyone tell me what the spec is for fuel rail pressure and what pressure will throw the P0193 code. Also wondering if fuel tank evaporation system could be causing increase in fuel pressure on hot days? Seems that the P0193 code is a very prevalent issue with this engine. Very many theories and repair solutions on the NET but not a definitive cause/solution. Has anyone tried to put a spacer on the PCU mounting plate to get it away from the engine heat or a different brand of pressure sensor? Any help would be appreciated.
Did your engine air filter come like that? I have a 2008 v6 93 and mine is more of a box shape. If you changed yours would you also recommend that I change mine?
Chicken_Turtle I live in a rural area. Very little stop and go. Mostly 55 mph areas. When I worked in town and had more stop and go it would be closer to 18-20. I don’t know if the Vtune helps gas mileage at all.
Baird Brown Vtune does help with mileage as well, it is able to spool the turbo quicker at less rpm, requiring less fuel to get your car moving. Stage 0 is a gem for the price point.
Jenny Lynn Dingman it is intimidating. And prepare for frustration as anything plastic could, and will, possibly break causing some downtime. But if you take your time and just be careful, it’s not so bad.
Dennis Spors just be easy. They really just have to be moved ever so slightly out of the way. If they break, they aren’t hard to replace but you usually have to have them shipped meaning there’s downtime.
Not sure how I never came across this video. I recommend the Maptun ESID3. This nifty little OBD plug-in captures and monitors engine parameters that don’t throw codes. An invaluable little device for this V6 motor.
Very great video. I plan to do this on the '06 9-3 aero. I can't say enough about how helpful and informative the video is.
I have an 06 SportCombi. Great car but coils are the weak point. I had one coil fracture on cylinder 6 and leave the dielectric goo and plastic bits around the plug. I believe the failure mode is internal arcing within the high voltage side of the coil which leads to added heat causing higher internal pressure leading to fracture. Cleaned up very carefully preventing it from dropping into the combustion chamber. Change coils as soon as misfires are detected. I bought Auto Enginuity PC based Scan Tool in about 2009. I use the On-Board Test Results tab to tell me which coil is going bad. The coils will typically start misfiring while slowly accelerating from about 50 to 70 mph and will be felt in the seat of your pants and show on the computer when connected. I get used coils from a wreckers and test them in the front bank using the computer. Store coils in low humidity locations such as in the house. Remove the rubber boot on the coil and clean any oxides off the ends of the contact spring with a light fine grit sand paper. Some oxides are electrically insulative. Try to only use Bosch type. Made in China are crap and fail very soon. I also have had some female pins on the vehicle's OBD connector push out the back. Need to unscrew the connector, pull the loose pins out and adjust the pin prongs which hold them in the connector. Mark from Hamilton, Canada.
Thanks Baird,I'm a pretty good experienced wrench on SAAB and BMW but any time you tear into an unfamiliar engine it's good to know where the delicate parts are and you pointed all this out clearly and I was able to give it the ignition tune up it needed. My wife thanks you as well, it's her car. It was missing with the A/C running so I looked you up and problem solved. Great tutorial, keep 'em running cause there ain't no new SAABs.You might mention that one manifold vacuum line in the rear up top has a push in connector to get it to release. Luckily I discovered that before anything broke.
Hans Keller I’m glad it was able to help someone! It was pretty hairy the first time I did it not knowing what I was doing.
Very Good video looking forward for more videos from you
Oh yeah this is a good quality video
Thank you very much, great video. Helped me replace the ignition coils on my 08 AERO XWD. The car is beast now :D.
Great instruction video! Well done!
Hör ingenting. Vindbrus 👍
@baird great video, you might want to add ignition coil in the title of the video. This is my second time coming back to this video thanks! BTW the back coil is coil #5 on the 07 B284L. Front one driver side is coil #6. Pretty sure that is consistent on these 2.8L.
On this page: www.motor.com/magazine-summary/gm-3-6l-engine-problems-eye-electronics-november-2013/
you'll want to read the whole thing about these engines, esp this: The fly in the ointment is oil usage. Typically, the change engine oil soon light will turn on somewhere between 8000 and 12,000 miles. If the engine is using a quart every 2000 miles, it’s obvious it will run out of oil before the light comes on. A check with Identifix shows that, unfortunately, this is not a rare occurrence. A quick search came up with more than 50 hits for low oil.
Interestingly, the first sign of this problem is sometimes a trouble code for a cylinder misfire or a camshaft sensor. What happens is that when the oil level is low, the cam phasers do not get enough oil to move consistently in response to the engine control computer. This effectively results in bad valve timing, which can result in poor in-cylinder mixture control.
Great Video, thank you!
Well I just replaced the serpentine belt so now this doesn't look like so much of a chore, I will brave changing the packs and plugs here soon.
Thanks a million 2009 saab aero xwd.
michael Sanseverino No problem! Thanks!
Great video. I had to replace a coil on #2 cylinder. Luckily it's on the front cylinder bank. I have a 2008 9-3 Aero convertible with 102,000 miles which runs flawlessly with one exception. I get an occasional P0193 code. Had the code with the OEM fuel pump. Replaced pump with a Carter pump and still got intermittent code. Car runs and starts great even with code present. Replaced FPS with new Bosch FPS. No change. If car sits overnight no code thrown. If restarted with engine at normal operating temperature, code will be thrown occasionally (maybe once every 10-15 hot starts) but not all the time. Seems to be more prevalent on extremely hot days. Since the fuel system on the 2.8L is a non-return system, could the pressure of the fuel in the fuel rail raise above spec due to engine and ambient heat soak? I have a fuel pressure test set, as I have been unable to find a repair manual to cover my 2008 9-3 Aero with the 2.8L V6 could anyone tell me what the spec is for fuel rail pressure and what pressure will throw the P0193 code. Also wondering if fuel tank evaporation system could be causing increase in fuel pressure on hot days? Seems that the P0193 code is a very prevalent issue with this engine. Very many theories and repair solutions on the NET but not a definitive cause/solution. Has anyone tried to put a spacer on the PCU mounting plate to get it away from the engine heat or a different brand of pressure sensor? Any help would be appreciated.
Good job on this sir 👍
Did your engine air filter come like that? I have a 2008 v6 93 and mine is more of a box shape. If you changed yours would you also recommend that I change mine?
Jordan Holland my air filter is part of a kit you can purchase from genuinesaab.com. BSR and others also make open air filter kits.
Purge valve solenoid code @20:23 could have been better explained: What is it? What's it do? What the GM part name or number? What's the code number?
Hey Baird I have the same problem with my Saab and I think I’m going to change all coils too but what kind of coils do you recommend me tu buy?
The OEM Bosch coils. I’ve had aftermarket ones fail almost immediately
Saab love =)
so I saw your mpg at 30.1! mine usually resides around the 16 mpg mark. how are you getting that kind of gas mileage?
Chicken_Turtle I live in a rural area. Very little stop and go. Mostly 55 mph areas. When I worked in town and had more stop and go it would be closer to 18-20. I don’t know if the Vtune helps gas mileage at all.
Baird Brown Vtune does help with mileage as well, it is able to spool the turbo quicker at less rpm, requiring less fuel to get your car moving. Stage 0 is a gem for the price point.
I need help my saab is misfiring need help with coil in cylinder #2 will it be difficult for me to change myself
Jenny Lynn Dingman the number 2 is easy. It’s the one on the left of the front valve cover.
@@bairdbrown4890 i need to do the plugs the back looks intimidating😥 i think i can do the front.
Jenny Lynn Dingman it is intimidating. And prepare for frustration as anything plastic could, and will, possibly break causing some downtime. But if you take your time and just be careful, it’s not so bad.
Where can I find the work shop manual for this maintenance?
Jordan Holland search for a Saab 9-3 WIS. You should be able to find a downloadable manual. Haynes Manuals only cover the 2.0.
I just bought one on eBay.
The old plastic hoses always scare me
Dennis Spors just be easy. They really just have to be moved ever so slightly out of the way. If they break, they aren’t hard to replace but you usually have to have them shipped meaning there’s downtime.