Thanks for your video...Just the way & tone of your voice gave me confidence to tackle my no start issue on my 99 F450 7.3L....Once again Thanks Yazmin Venice Beach CA ⛱️ 🏄♀️🏁⛱️🏄♀️💯
Glad I can help. When I face new complex things like this, I always remember: "How do you eat an elephant? One bite at a time". If you solve the first problem that comes up, then the next, then the next, eventually there are no more problems to solve and you've done what you set out to do.
I have the same problem on my 93 ford f350 7.3 idi , I replaced glow plugs, module/controller, glow plug harness and still clicks Did you find the issue why it clicks ?
The glow plug controller is extremely sensitive to resistance as that is how it determines if the engine is hot or cold and how much glow to run. The only thing I could think of was that the anti-seize that I put on the glow plugs altered the resistance enough that it caused the controller to spaz out. As seen in the video, I checked everything per Ford specification and found it to be within spec. This is why ultimately I modified the glow controller to be a manual, momentary switch activation. That has been working fine since I converted it.
What do you mean that all my plugs came back as 13.1 volts. This doesn't make sense. Testing as was done with a voltmeter won;'t tell you if the resistance is low but still too high for proper glow plug operation.
Can you give me a timestamp when I said that so I can get a little more context as to why I said it? You are correct that a meter set to volts isn't going to tell you much if you are testing individual plugs. The meter would need to be set to Ohms and then you can check the resistance. However, if you are testing the ENTIRE system and you see around 10 volts on a plug when you turn on the glow plugs that's about right to indicate the glow plugs are working.
Now that I think about it, I was probably doing voltage checks from the tip of the installed plug to the block with the wire harness attached and was looking for voltage drop across the length of the plug while installed. If you have excessively high resistance across the plug or if it doesn't have a good connection to ground (the cylinder head it's screwed into) you would see a voltage drop when you check it. 13.1 was what the battery was reading at the time, so if everything was installed correctly I should see 13.1 across the plug, which I did.
Thanks for your video...Just the way & tone of your voice gave me confidence to tackle my no start issue on my 99 F450 7.3L....Once again Thanks
Yazmin
Venice Beach CA ⛱️ 🏄♀️🏁⛱️🏄♀️💯
Glad I can help. When I face new complex things like this, I always remember: "How do you eat an elephant? One bite at a time". If you solve the first problem that comes up, then the next, then the next, eventually there are no more problems to solve and you've done what you set out to do.
I have the same problem on my 93 ford f350 7.3 idi , I replaced glow plugs, module/controller, glow plug harness and still clicks
Did you find the issue why it clicks ?
The glow plug controller is extremely sensitive to resistance as that is how it determines if the engine is hot or cold and how much glow to run. The only thing I could think of was that the anti-seize that I put on the glow plugs altered the resistance enough that it caused the controller to spaz out. As seen in the video, I checked everything per Ford specification and found it to be within spec. This is why ultimately I modified the glow controller to be a manual, momentary switch activation. That has been working fine since I converted it.
What do you mean that all my plugs came back as 13.1 volts. This doesn't make sense. Testing as was done with a voltmeter won;'t tell you if the resistance is low but still too high for proper glow plug operation.
Can you give me a timestamp when I said that so I can get a little more context as to why I said it? You are correct that a meter set to volts isn't going to tell you much if you are testing individual plugs. The meter would need to be set to Ohms and then you can check the resistance. However, if you are testing the ENTIRE system and you see around 10 volts on a plug when you turn on the glow plugs that's about right to indicate the glow plugs are working.
Now that I think about it, I was probably doing voltage checks from the tip of the installed plug to the block with the wire harness attached and was looking for voltage drop across the length of the plug while installed. If you have excessively high resistance across the plug or if it doesn't have a good connection to ground (the cylinder head it's screwed into) you would see a voltage drop when you check it. 13.1 was what the battery was reading at the time, so if everything was installed correctly I should see 13.1 across the plug, which I did.