All the pressure switches I've worked with as a homeowner for 45 years the large lug changes both the cut-in and cut-out pressure. The small one just does the cut-in pressure I believe.
Yes the larger one increases/decreases the entire range. This is probably why he says do it first (which you should) then get the cut-in right. So he does not describe it accurately but the method is sound...
Very informative appreciate it a little simple hack I came up with is to mark the screw nut with a marker or model paint in line with the collar to keep track of my revolutions (turning screw) when the lines line up I know I went a complete revolution of the nut
As an FYI: Your pressure tank should have a psi reading of 2 points lower than your pressure switch cut in setting. Example: If you have a 30/50 pressure switch, then your pressure tank should have a psi reading of 28. If the pressure switch is set to 40/60, the pressure tank should be charged to 38 psi. ALWAYS cut off the valve from the pump to the pressure tank and drain the tank by opening the flush valve or a nearby faucet, BEFORE you check or recharge your pressure tank!!!
A great video indeed, may I suggest using a nut driver 11/32 on mine 40 /60 is my differential. I give my self a extra 2 psi for great water pressure not over pressuring the tank. Using a nut driver has the advantage of a plastic handle that will keep the person from becoming the ground, that's if the power is not turn off using the breaker or other means
According to the lid of my pressure switch (and other videos), the large spring which you identify as nut #1, adjusts both the ON and OFF values together, effectively raising or lowering the entire range without changing the distance between ON and OFF. It doesn't really change your procedure of adjusting #1, and then #2 for most situations, but it could lead to over-pressure damage if a viewer assumes they are not raising the top OFF value while attempting to only raise the bottom ON value.
Exactly! What is referred to as "nut #1" in the video raises and/or lowers the cut-in/cut-out pressures, but "nut #2" changes the differential between the two. Adjusting "nut #2" incorrectly (say, "closing" the differential between cut-in and cut-out) could damage a pump due to short- or over-cycling. Thank you for calling this out!
Can a pressure switch be damaged if the range is set above its designated range? I.e. If I have a 30-50 PSI pressure switch, but I run it 38 to 58 will the pressure switch eventually be damaged?
@@stevereason6931 - Not so long as your pressure tank is also set accordingly, so it’s cutting off & on correctly & not causing the points to burn out quick.
In my country in the Caribbean they sell the new switches uncalibrated and the chinese brand square D switches are not as good. I often have to calibrate them before I send them out
I replaced a 30/50 switch with a 40/60 switch a year or two ago. Now I want to install an Orbit DIY irrigation system that states I would need 50 psi and a 5 GPM. Should I adjust the 40/60 switch to 50/70 so the cut in point wouldn't go below the 50 psi requirement for the irrigation system? If I adjust the range screw so that the range will be 50/70, will there be any potential problems with the rest of my water system?
My issue is that mine is so loud. But not downstairs when I’m right next to the tank. It’s upstairs. It’s such a loud ka glunk type of sound when it starts pulling in water / stops. I lowered my pipe so I wouldn’t hear the water but now I just have the loud on / off sound. It’s so annoying.
@@DavidMoriconiM3inspect - You don’t have to have a new tank, but you have to adjust the pressure in it accordingly. Unless the bladder inside is bad, then you’ll need a new tank. - You’ll get water out of the top Schrader Valve instead of air when your pressure tank’s bad.
With the 40 60 switch is it possible to crank up the pressure to 70 psi? Or is that pushing it too far? I’m a plumber and I’ve adjusted quite a few of these 4-5 psi but never 10. I have a costumer that is wanting more pressure to his shower. I have yet to check out his pressure tank or even the size of pipe he has ran to the shower so it could very well be the tank or under sized pipe for all I know but just wondering if adjusting it 10 psi is too much????
check your small water line under the pressure switch it gets plugged with rust take pressure switch off screwdriver in water line to clean out rust replace switch and a new gauge good to go
Thank you for the video. How can I be sure my switch is cutting on the pump at the factory setting? Can I watch the gauge when the pump restarts to make sure it's at the proper setting? Thank you.
Either the bladder in your pressure tank has went bad, the pressure tank has lost pressure & you need to recharge it, or your pump is wore out & it’s time to replace it. As an FYI: Your pressure tank should have a psi reading of 2 points lower than your pressure switch cut in setting. Example: If you have a 30/50 pressure switch, then your pressure tank should have a psi reading of 28.
What do I need to do? my gage is showing between 40 and 60 . But when I use my water and water hose. The pressure drops slowly like normal. But my switch is not coming on and allows my pressure to drop to 0 . I end up waiting until the pressure builds back up. But if I am showering only, it will not give any trouble. Here's what I'm thinking.. The hose on washer is to much for the switch to Kick on and catch up fast enough.
my pump comes on and pressures up to normal but the gauge threaded into it immediately starts to slowly drop until it hits the low PSI point and fires up the pump again... checked all around for leaks and everything sounds normal in the well house. No water running so im guessing my pressure tank has blown😳 dont want to get ripped off by the repairman
My drummond pump keeps cycling on and off pretty rapidly, making the water pump out and pause creating a jerking flow. Should I adjust both? My pressure guage is rusted and doesn't work. Thanks for any advise!
You need to replace the pressure gauge and then readjust the pressure settings. If the problem persists then you may need a new pressure switch. Do the electrical contacts look burned at all?
@@proclaimliberty2000 thanks for your reply! I'm looking into a guage replacement and as far as the connections, they are fine, no sign of being burnt. There may also be an issue with the pressure tank and I think its still under warranty. Thanks again!
My drummond pump keeps cycling on and off pretty rapidly, making the water pump out and pause creating a jerking flow. Should I adjust both? My pressure guage is rusted and doesn't work. Thanks for any advise!
@@Manventure1 You should get a working pressure gauge, since yours is rusted. A bad pressure tank is the cause for most rapid cycling water pumps. Do you have a pressure tank?
@@darrelc5411 yes, there is a pressure tank and I believe there may be an issue with it. I have to find my warranty information as I think the pump is under an extended warranty. Thanks so much for replying!
All the pressure switches I've worked with as a homeowner for 45 years the large lug changes both the cut-in and cut-out pressure. The small one just does the cut-in pressure I believe.
Yep. He’s wrong
Yes the larger one increases/decreases the entire range. This is probably why he says do it first (which you should) then get the cut-in right. So he does not describe it accurately but the method is sound...
Very informative appreciate it a little simple hack I came up with is to mark the screw nut with a marker or model paint in line with the collar to keep track of my revolutions (turning screw) when the lines line up I know I went a complete revolution of the nut
As an FYI:
Your pressure tank should have a psi reading of 2 points lower than your pressure switch cut in setting.
Example: If you have a 30/50 pressure switch, then your pressure tank should have a psi reading of 28.
If the pressure switch is set to 40/60, the pressure tank should be charged to 38 psi.
ALWAYS cut off the valve from the pump to the pressure tank and drain the tank by opening the flush valve or a nearby faucet, BEFORE you check or recharge your pressure tank!!!
THIS
A great video indeed, may I suggest using a nut driver 11/32 on mine 40 /60 is my differential. I give my self a extra 2 psi for great water pressure not over pressuring the tank. Using a nut driver has the advantage of a plastic handle that will keep the person from becoming the ground, that's if the power is not turn off using the breaker or other means
According to the lid of my pressure switch (and other videos), the large spring which you identify as nut #1, adjusts both the ON and OFF values together, effectively raising or lowering the entire range without changing the distance between ON and OFF. It doesn't really change your procedure of adjusting #1, and then #2 for most situations, but it could lead to over-pressure damage if a viewer assumes they are not raising the top OFF value while attempting to only raise the bottom ON value.
Exactly! What is referred to as "nut #1" in the video raises and/or lowers the cut-in/cut-out pressures, but "nut #2" changes the differential between the two. Adjusting "nut #2" incorrectly (say, "closing" the differential between cut-in and cut-out) could damage a pump due to short- or over-cycling. Thank you for calling this out!
Thank you for the clear video. I have a 40/60 switch but it’s cutting in at 24 and off at 74. Sounds like I need to adjust both nuts, correct?
@@OfCourseYouCanyou need to adjust the range first to get cut in and cut out closer together
@@MacJank7 thanks! The pump feeder tube/nipple was totally clogged with sediment. Easy replacement and problem solved.
So turning the nut clockwise will bring pressure up? I need to bring my pressure down
This is a great video. Thank you
Can a pressure switch be damaged if the range is set above its designated range? I.e. If I have a 30-50 PSI pressure switch, but I run it 38 to 58 will the pressure switch eventually be damaged?
@@stevereason6931 - Not so long as your pressure tank is also set accordingly, so it’s cutting off & on correctly & not causing the points to burn out quick.
In my country in the Caribbean they sell the new switches uncalibrated and the chinese brand square D switches are not as good. I often have to calibrate them before I send them out
You're correct. Square D Was The best, until the China took over the manufacturing of them. Now???
@@kezzatries yup the ones assembled in Mexico seems to be better that the Chinese square D. Alot of problems
I replaced a 30/50 switch with a 40/60 switch a year or two ago. Now I want to install an Orbit DIY irrigation system that states I would need 50 psi and a 5 GPM. Should I adjust the 40/60 switch to 50/70 so the cut in point wouldn't go below the 50 psi requirement for the irrigation system? If I adjust the range screw so that the range will be 50/70, will there be any potential problems with the rest of my water system?
My issue is that mine is so loud. But not downstairs when I’m right next to the tank. It’s upstairs. It’s such a loud ka glunk type of sound when it starts pulling in water / stops. I lowered my pipe so I wouldn’t hear the water but now I just have the loud on / off sound. It’s so annoying.
Don't you have to change the bladder and tank air pressure when you change the pressure switch
YES you must pressurize the water tank - with no water in it - to 2 psi below the cut-in pressure the switch is set to. See AngelofOntario's comment.
@@DavidMoriconiM3inspect - You don’t have to have a new tank, but you have to adjust the pressure in it accordingly. Unless the bladder inside is bad, then you’ll need a new tank. - You’ll get water out of the top Schrader Valve instead of air when your pressure tank’s bad.
Hello Paul-Im having issues when too much water running then it trips the pressure switch, what causes that? Thank you kindly
Just what I needed to see
Great video Paul and Sparky
👍😊
With the 40 60 switch is it possible to crank up the pressure to 70 psi? Or is that pushing it too far? I’m a plumber and I’ve adjusted quite a few of these 4-5 psi but never 10. I have a costumer that is wanting more pressure to his shower. I have yet to check out his pressure tank or even the size of pipe he has ran to the shower so it could very well be the tank or under sized pipe for all I know but just wondering if adjusting it 10 psi is too much????
@@joelmorrell8839 - You could blow out his plumbing connections if they can’t handle that pressure.
Thanks for the video! And I love you dog :)
Thank you!
The pressure switch is normally on the pump
Check your wiring
check your small water line under the pressure switch it gets plugged with rust take pressure switch off screwdriver in water line to clean out rust replace switch and a new gauge good to go
Nice and simple.🇨🇦👍
Thank you for the video.
How can I be sure my switch is cutting on the pump at the factory setting?
Can I watch the gauge when the pump restarts to make sure it's at the proper setting?
Thank you.
@@mikelewis7633 yes
Great information
My pressure switch clicks at 30psi but doesn’t engage, but I can manually prime fine. What’s going on?
Pressure tank psi needs to be set to 28.
For some reason, no matter how much I tweak the adjustment, my 40-60psi switch makes the gage range about 8-10psi dP
I would replace the gauge first.
@@proclaimliberty2000 sounds good. I’ll do that.
@@TheRealRenn 👍😃
@@proclaimliberty2000 well, you were correct. I replaced the gage and got everything dialed in. Thank you Sir!
@@TheRealRenn 👍😃
Is it ok to adjust it to 45 on and 65 off just for more pressure in shower? My tank is 32 gal
@@alfrani2348 sure is
@@alfrani2348 I’ve don’t it multiple times
I’ve done*
My sprinkler system pump starts. And after 20 seconds the pressure switch starts opening and closing very fast? What do you think?
Either the bladder in your pressure tank has went bad, the pressure tank has lost pressure & you need to recharge it, or your pump is wore out & it’s time to replace it.
As an FYI:
Your pressure tank should have a psi reading of 2 points lower than your pressure switch cut in setting. Example: If you have a 30/50 pressure switch, then your pressure tank should have a psi reading of 28.
What do I need to do? my gage is showing between 40 and 60 . But when I use my water and water hose. The pressure drops slowly like normal. But my switch is not coming on and allows my pressure to drop to 0 . I end up waiting until the pressure builds back up. But if I am showering only, it will not give any trouble. Here's what I'm thinking.. The hose on washer is to much for the switch to Kick on and catch up fast enough.
Did you happen to figure out your problem my does the exact same thing, no matter how I adjust it, it'll run empty then come back on
Switch is coming on or it wouldnt fill your well pump is bad or its screen is plugged causing low flow rate
my pump comes on and pressures up to normal but the gauge threaded into it immediately starts to slowly drop until it hits the low PSI point and fires up the pump again... checked all around for leaks and everything sounds normal in the well house. No water running so im guessing my pressure tank has blown😳
dont want to get ripped off by the repairman
@@Howleebra - If water comes out of the top Schrader valve, instead of just air, then your bladder is blown & you need a new tank.
@@AngelofOntario hey it turns out my jet valve had gone bad at the gasket...
I have a 30/50 switch. The cut off is now at 52psi. Is that ok?
You’re close enough so you’re fine 👍😃
Bladder pressure?
2 psi lower than the cut on setting. On a 30/50 pressure switch, the pressure tank psi should be 28.
My drummond pump keeps cycling on and off pretty rapidly, making the water pump out and pause creating a jerking flow. Should I adjust both? My pressure guage is rusted and doesn't work. Thanks for any advise!
You need to replace the pressure gauge and then readjust the pressure settings. If the problem persists then you may need a new pressure switch. Do the electrical contacts look burned at all?
@@proclaimliberty2000 thanks for your reply! I'm looking into a guage replacement and as far as the connections, they are fine, no sign of being burnt. There may also be an issue with the pressure tank and I think its still under warranty. Thanks again!
@@Manventure1 👍😊
Why is your pump soooo quiet
About how many seconds/minutes should a good working system take to get from 40psi to 60 psi and for it to fall from 60 to 40?
The typical on/off cycle should be a 1 minute on and 1 minute off.
My drummond pump keeps cycling on and off pretty rapidly, making the water pump out and pause creating a jerking flow. Should I adjust both? My pressure guage is rusted and doesn't work. Thanks for any advise!
@@Manventure1 You should get a working pressure gauge, since yours is rusted. A bad pressure tank is the cause for most rapid cycling water pumps. Do you have a pressure tank?
@@darrelc5411 yes, there is a pressure tank and I believe there may be an issue with it. I have to find my warranty information as I think the pump is under an extended warranty. Thanks so much for replying!