Thank you for the video. Rebuilding a deck myself with composite and am now down to the stairs. Due to rot, I had to rebuild from scratch. You can cover a lot of valuable information points regarding. Much appreciated!
Nothing personal, but for something that is simple for you, the longer you talk, the more complicated it becomes for us. There are adjustments and compensations that are confusing, making it no longer simple. 😊
@@BorsellinoHomeServicesYou didn’t say anything unnecessary, stringers are just a little complicated, and that goes over some peoples heads. Great video!
Thanks for sharing. I liked the bevel in the blocking board where the stringers attach to deck. It made sense structurally after you explained putting straps there. I'm going to do that too then ! I'm not clear still on how you measured in the depth of the tread before cutting - but guess taking that off the bottom was the solution.
Great job on explanation and cuts. The framing square brass nuts (Stops) have legs. "Tip" place a 1/4" steel washer between them before tightening down. If short one, Menards and other home improvement stores sell a broom-handle with a large 4" magnet on the end to pull, drag, roll thru the grass to pick them up especially with grass is dead looking brown. Works great on bits, screws and other fasteners. Angle cut help sheds waters. First first time DIY always pay a little for foot longer board and treaded. Good point on drainage at foot-base board with gravel. Also adding sealer and I hand dug holes for fence poles 48". If no medium rock handy, trim bottom to pencil shape to reduce surface area for frost to push on as low area's can let water soak deeper. You only let that happen once. Good job and nice trailer! Auto Certified ASE Master Tech since 78, mechanic 70, family farm oldest.
cool tip about the washer and magnet! I haven't lost one yet. Although I have 2 pairs because I couldn't find my first set once when I needed it so I bought a new one, then found the original! Now I keep one set in my glove box and I think the other is with my deep sockets. Thanks for the other tips too :)
Great vid. Refreshing to see a good educational vid for others to learn the correct way to build a set of stairs. Thank you for fine details and sharing!
Thank you for showing the whole thing, and the long videos! I often set youtube filters for longer videos since I get to see details, tips, and also the thought process of the work.
Thanks!! I try really hard and my videos have definitely gotten better as I've gotten more comfortable in front of the camera. Some of my old videos are pretty rough
Are the straps the only thing holding the stringers to the frame? Is there a reason not to use a structural screw from the added framing into the stringer? I'm about to do my 1st set of stairs next week!
I practiced on four 8ft boards before ruining 16 footers. Paying attention to the crown I found to be very important. Where your line ends vs the crown of the board really messed me up at first.
Cause that's kind of a hack way to do it. Whenever I see it done that way I think to myself "man whoever built these steps had no clue what they were doing". Also you'd need a second 4x4 post at the front of the stringer for the railing to be at the correct height, so you'd have 2 4x4s a few inches apart (one in the position shown in the video and one on the top stringer)... then try installing a railing between them. It looks bad and ends up adding a step to the process and materials to the job. The way I build them is very strong, they aren't going anywhere.
A bit confused on where you got 75 and 5/8 and not 76 1/2 because 7/8=10.9375 then multiply by 7 would give you the total run. From header to end of stringer.
not sure. I'm not going to rewatch the whole video to try to find the spot you're talking about though. If you don't know, you can include a timestamp in a comment and it will let me click and go right to that point in the video :) It's all just math, so something must have been subtracted. tread, stringer, riser, something??? 🤷♂️
I have a question I hope you can answer. I am replacing my basement stairs which were built in the 60's. I have a total rise of 98 inches, a total run of 112 inches. There are 11 treads plus the floor surface at the top to make 12 steps with approximately 8.25 inch risers and 10 inch treads. I want to go to 7 inch risers and 10 inch treads to give me 14 steps including the upper floor surface. Can I safely do this with the 112 inch run? My angle of my stringers is just over 41°
if you can't figure out the math on your own, try a stair calculator (google it). I've never used one but I'm assuming they work. it's all just math. I will also draw it out on paper so I can visualize it. Graph paper to scale if you can!
@BorsellinoHomeServices yeah, after I posted this question I realized that I would have a run of 130 inches but my floor opening is only 112 so it won't work. I'll have to rebuild the stairs with the same dimensions as the old ones. Thanks for your reply.
Curious about your initial remarks on risers. Client want shallow steps - why would code prevent that? It would certainly require a longer run. My father is 93 and navigating even 6" steps is difficult. I was wondering why I couldn't find any 4" steps.
A very low rise, say under 4 inches, becomes more of a prolonged trip hazard than a safe staircase. The code around here allows for just under 5 inches but no smaller.
hello there buddy I have a ? instead of building down for your stringer why didn't you just put the stringers flush with the top of your deck would of been been much stronger to use 2x4 in between your stringers then screw them straight into your 2x8 rim joist on your deck.
Never put the wooden stringers on top of stones or concrete unless you want to replace them in 5 to 10 years because the wood will rot. Been there done that.
HA! I have two pairs cause I couldn't find the old pair! I haven't done a set of stairs since this deck and I got a new truck so god knows where I stuck them 😆
Typically stair treads are cut on 7 and 11. But you have to do what the customer wants 😂 Edit: with your guard blocked don't stand right behind your saw either
Yeah actually I just heard from the son of the customer recently and he's so happy with the shorter rise cause he has trouble walking up normal rise stairs. I agree though 11 is the normal depth cause that's 2 deck boards wide. You're right about not standing behind the saw. I try not to do dumb shit but inevitably it happens sometimes and I catch it on camera 🤦♂️
Yes it meets code. The code for outside stairs is max rise is 8 in. There is no minimum but there you need to use common sense . Max rise is 7 -3/4" . The best for ordinary is 7 1/2 ". "
You get a bit confused when cutting the boards to length. I get it you need to compensate, I'm not talking about that. I need what to cut off for the top vs the end. Stop being confusing
The reason for the code and licensed contractors that follow it no matter what blabber comes out of the home owners mouth is “trip hazards” ! Our eye and mind connect to tell us over time 7” 1/4 to 8” max that is our foot rise and drop when walking stairs especially the elderly! You face plant an elderly person on stairs like that and it could hv been simply avoided!
There is no minimum requirement just a maximum so you are incorrect saying it is up to 8" maximum... see the IRC language below The International Residential Code dictates stair code requirements specific to residential buildings. The IRC stairs code states that, to comply with stairway requirements, the minimum width for residential stairs be no less than 36 inches. The stair riser code is up to 7.75 inches, and can not vary more than 3/8 of an inch. There are also section codes in place for standard stair tread dimensions. The tread depth code for residential stairs should be no less than 10 inches with nosing, no less than 11 inches without nosing, and maximum tread depth variation should also be less than 3/8 of an inch.
@@BorsellinoHomeServices what does the IBC state? And I hv yet to find a state that goes under 7”? Your local inspector would not pass that however your a handyman so I would not expect you to know the IRC and IBC pertaining to stairs ! In any event if you choose low risers it still presents a trip hazard period , end of story ! If you can find 10 houses in your area where u can show me say 5” risers , 4” risers , 7” steps and so on I will send you $500 ! Not decks built by okie dokes but stairs built by contractors both inside the homes and outside into say 2nd story entry ways! It’s not a good rule of thumb to say hey they don’t specify I hv to build with a 2x4 so I will use a 2x2 or a 1x1? Hey does not say my riser hv to be 7.5” so let’s save money and build them at 3.5” who cares that it’s a trip hazard as stated in the local codes or state codes ! I am an ethical contractor and since you argue the point where in that mark do you come?
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Thank you for the video. Rebuilding a deck myself with composite and am now down to the stairs. Due to rot, I had to rebuild from scratch. You can cover a lot of valuable information points regarding. Much appreciated!
Nothing personal, but for something that is simple for you, the longer you talk, the more complicated it becomes for us. There are adjustments and compensations that are confusing, making it no longer simple. 😊
Sorry about that. I tried my best 😔
@@BorsellinoHomeServicesYou didn’t say anything unnecessary, stringers are just a little complicated, and that goes over some peoples heads. Great video!
Thanks for sharing. I liked the bevel in the blocking board where the stringers attach to deck. It made sense structurally after you explained putting straps there. I'm going to do that too then ! I'm not clear still on how you measured in the depth of the tread before cutting - but guess taking that off the bottom was the solution.
Well done Nick. Your craftsmanship is self evident. Nice clear explanation.
Thanks Walt!!!
Great job on explanation and cuts. The framing square brass nuts (Stops) have legs. "Tip" place a 1/4" steel washer between them before tightening down. If short one, Menards and other home improvement stores sell a broom-handle with a large 4" magnet on the end to pull, drag, roll thru the grass to pick them up especially with grass is dead looking brown. Works great on bits, screws and other fasteners.
Angle cut help sheds waters. First first time DIY always pay a little for foot longer board and treaded. Good point on drainage at foot-base board with gravel. Also adding sealer and I hand dug holes for fence poles 48". If no medium rock handy, trim bottom to pencil shape to reduce surface area for frost to push on as low area's can let water soak deeper. You only let that happen once. Good job and nice trailer!
Auto Certified ASE Master Tech since 78, mechanic 70, family farm oldest.
cool tip about the washer and magnet! I haven't lost one yet. Although I have 2 pairs because I couldn't find my first set once when I needed it so I bought a new one, then found the original! Now I keep one set in my glove box and I think the other is with my deep sockets. Thanks for the other tips too :)
Great vid. Refreshing to see a good educational vid for others to learn the correct way to build a set of stairs. Thank you for fine details and sharing!
Thank you for showing the whole thing, and the long videos!
I often set youtube filters for longer videos since I get to see details, tips, and also the thought process of the work.
thanks! I'm definitely a long form content guy. I'm not good at making short and sweet videos lol
to the point. thank you for the refresher
Thanks bud filled in a bunch of gaps for me.
Clean work
Thank you for this video the explanation is very clear and with the quality thank you excellent
Glad it was helpful!!
Thank you so much
Love you sir good job done
Very well explained i like your videos
Thanks!! I try really hard and my videos have definitely gotten better as I've gotten more comfortable in front of the camera. Some of my old videos are pretty rough
Thanks for sharing this clear information video.
you betcha!
Thank you! Very helpful.
You're welcome!
This was really good. Good job. I noticed your shirt. If that is cazenovia in NY I’m right in the finger Lakes. Good job again
yep I live in Caz!
Republican?
Are the straps the only thing holding the stringers to the frame? Is there a reason not to use a structural screw from the added framing into the stringer? I'm about to do my 1st set of stairs next week!
I practiced on four 8ft boards before ruining 16 footers. Paying attention to the crown I found to be very important. Where your line ends vs the crown of the board really messed me up at first.
Why didn't you design it so that the top of the stringer was even with the top of the rim joist?😮 That would give it a better mounting surface.
Cause that's kind of a hack way to do it. Whenever I see it done that way I think to myself "man whoever built these steps had no clue what they were doing". Also you'd need a second 4x4 post at the front of the stringer for the railing to be at the correct height, so you'd have 2 4x4s a few inches apart (one in the position shown in the video and one on the top stringer)... then try installing a railing between them. It looks bad and ends up adding a step to the process and materials to the job. The way I build them is very strong, they aren't going anywhere.
I agree and it would have been a lot less work.
@@BorsellinoHomeServices I don't see why you would need another post. The railing would be the same height regardless.
I'm assuming if 2x10's meet code for stringers, they are also spaced closer together to account for the lower weight tolerance of a 2x10 stringer, no?
I wouldn't ever use a 2x10 for a stringer. I suppose if it was only a couple steps it would work but 2x12 is the way to go. It's worth the extra cost
@@BorsellinoHomeServices I get it, I'm just trying to understand the logic behind code.
Good Good
thanks
A bit confused on where you got 75 and 5/8 and not 76 1/2 because 7/8=10.9375 then multiply by 7 would give you the total run. From header to end of stringer.
Only say this because I'm a bit new to carpentry and young and learning.
not sure. I'm not going to rewatch the whole video to try to find the spot you're talking about though. If you don't know, you can include a timestamp in a comment and it will let me click and go right to that point in the video :) It's all just math, so something must have been subtracted. tread, stringer, riser, something??? 🤷♂️
@@BorsellinoHomeServices yuh it's no big deal it worked right 😂😂
I have a question I hope you can answer. I am replacing my basement stairs which were built in the 60's. I have a total rise of 98 inches, a total run of 112 inches. There are 11 treads plus the floor surface at the top to make 12 steps with approximately 8.25 inch risers and 10 inch treads. I want to go to 7 inch risers and 10 inch treads to give me 14 steps including the upper floor surface. Can I safely do this with the 112 inch run? My angle of my stringers is just over 41°
if you can't figure out the math on your own, try a stair calculator (google it). I've never used one but I'm assuming they work. it's all just math. I will also draw it out on paper so I can visualize it. Graph paper to scale if you can!
@BorsellinoHomeServices yeah, after I posted this question I realized that I would have a run of 130 inches but my floor opening is only 112 so it won't work. I'll have to rebuild the stairs with the same dimensions as the old ones. Thanks for your reply.
Curious about your initial remarks on risers. Client want shallow steps - why would code prevent that? It would certainly require a longer run. My father is 93 and navigating even 6" steps is difficult. I was wondering why I couldn't find any 4" steps.
A very low rise, say under 4 inches, becomes more of a prolonged trip hazard than a safe staircase. The code around here allows for just under 5 inches but no smaller.
hello there buddy I have a ? instead of building down for your stringer why didn't you just put the stringers flush with the top of your deck would of been been much stronger to use 2x4 in between your stringers then screw them straight into your 2x8 rim joist on your deck.
I personally don't like the look of having the top step flush with the deck. You'd also need another 4x4 post and it would add one step to the length.
It will also add more work for the railing if your stringers are flush.
Never put the wooden stringers on top of stones or concrete unless you want to replace them in 5 to 10 years because the wood will rot. Been there done that.
joist hangers that are angled are better
sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet!
Naaaaaah
Hi There, Do u use pressure treated 2 x 12 ? Thnx.
yes! Always pressure treated for outside work. And I only use 2x12's for stringers. anything less is not strong enough
7:24 Ah. So... that's why I had to run out to buy new pair of nuts. Stair nuts, I mean. AKA "stair gauges" but they don't "gauge" anything.
HA! I have two pairs cause I couldn't find the old pair! I haven't done a set of stairs since this deck and I got a new truck so god knows where I stuck them 😆
Typically stair treads are cut on 7 and 11. But you have to do what the customer wants 😂
Edit: with your guard blocked don't stand right behind your saw either
Yeah actually I just heard from the son of the customer recently and he's so happy with the shorter rise cause he has trouble walking up normal rise stairs. I agree though 11 is the normal depth cause that's 2 deck boards wide. You're right about not standing behind the saw. I try not to do dumb shit but inevitably it happens sometimes and I catch it on camera 🤦♂️
Yes it meets code. The code for outside stairs is max rise is 8 in. There is no minimum but there you need to use common sense . Max rise is 7 -3/4" . The best for ordinary is 7 1/2 ".
"
You get a bit confused when cutting the boards to length. I get it you need to compensate, I'm not talking about that. I need what to cut off for the top vs the end. Stop being confusing
The reason for the code and licensed contractors that follow it no matter what blabber comes out of the home owners mouth is “trip hazards” ! Our eye and mind connect to tell us over time 7” 1/4 to 8” max that is our foot rise and drop when walking stairs especially the elderly!
You face plant an elderly person on stairs like that and it could hv been simply avoided!
There is no minimum requirement just a maximum so you are incorrect saying it is up to 8" maximum... see the IRC language below
The International Residential Code dictates stair code requirements specific to residential buildings. The IRC stairs code states that, to comply with stairway requirements, the minimum width for residential stairs be no less than 36 inches. The stair riser code is up to 7.75 inches, and can not vary more than 3/8 of an inch. There are also section codes in place for standard stair tread dimensions. The tread depth code for residential stairs should be no less than 10 inches with nosing, no less than 11 inches without nosing, and maximum tread depth variation should also be less than 3/8 of an inch.
@@BorsellinoHomeServices what does the IBC state? And I hv yet to find a state that goes under 7”?
Your local inspector would not pass that however your a handyman so I would not expect you to know the IRC and IBC pertaining to stairs ! In any event if you choose low risers it still presents a trip hazard period , end of story !
If you can find 10 houses in your area where u can show me say 5” risers , 4” risers , 7” steps and so on I will send you $500 !
Not decks built by okie dokes but stairs built by contractors both inside the homes and outside into say 2nd story entry ways!
It’s not a good rule of thumb to say hey they don’t specify I hv to build with a 2x4 so I will use a 2x2 or a 1x1? Hey does not say my riser hv to be 7.5” so let’s save money and build them at 3.5” who cares that it’s a trip hazard as stated in the local codes or state codes !
I am an ethical contractor and since you argue the point where in that mark do you come?
Hey don't pin ur guard in a video. Not good.