Hi all, I'm building the table top for my next project out of 5/4 white oak. To give the table a lighter and more elegant look I’m tapering it from the bottom to five eights of an inch at the edge. Over the years I've noticed that small design decisions like this one can make all the difference. thanks for watching and have a nice weekend, Jon To help support the show please consider making your next tool purchase from my Acme Tools Store... Thanks!
Jon what about using a finish nail for the pivot point and not the screw ? That way you can just pick up the jig and move it the next hole and always insure your in the same pivot point.
Over the years I have learned so much from you Jon, and today again you showed me a technique i have not seen before. That was truly a fantastic way to do the tapering
Always like your technique breakdown videos. They do a great job of highlighting your process and providing a detailed look at a particular skill or method. Thanks for sharing.
Briliant! and much safer than what I might have done... standing it up vertically on a table saw with the blade all the way up. Yeah your method takes more sanding, but the ER takes up way more time. Thank you!
You know you're slick Bud!!! You know it!! That was an ingenious idea & at first I was confused as to what you were trying to accomplish!!! Sorry for delayed comment Bro., but, you know I was living it up wit some Ballerz!! Hoping all is well, Dirty Jersey out!!
Wow, that is really beautiful. Thank you for sharing the technique. I am certain it will add the elegant impression you are looking for. The evenness of the taper all around is fantastic. I am looking for a similar taper on an oval table I am planning and my brain is excitedly thinking how this stepped router technique can be adapted maybe using an oval plywood template. Looking forward to seeing the rest of the table come together. Thanks again for sharing your skills.
Thanks for sharing that technique, Jon~! I've not seen that one yet, but it made perfect sense to do it that way. Can't wait to see the finished table (if you show it).
Great solution. I've seen similar tapers done on square table tops by running it vertically through a table saw or with a temporary built-up edge & a track saw, but neither of those would work for such a large, circular top. Looks great!
David Shaper no need for a dado stack, regular blade is what you’d want, but it would only work on smaller pieces. Mostly it works for straight edges, but I have seen people rig up a jig to allow a circular piece to rotate through the blade. The key to doing it safely is to build a tall vertical fence for your piece to register against (keeping it vertical) that is SOLIDLY attached to your normal table saw rip fence. Then you angle the blade to the bevel angle you want, adjust the whole fence assembly to start the bevel at the desired distance from the top, and carefully slide it through.
Jon, you crack me up! Never used a router to cut a circle, then you go and do some crazy tapering with it! Taking it to the next level. I bet you are glad it worked out. There is no going back after that first cut! Also, did I see a new sander in there? Looks great bud! Keep it up.
Do you think you could glue a wedge on the jig, under the router so it’s at an angle of the taper? Then run the same process?...Starting hole may vary ;) I’d love to see how that would work on another project. I don’t have any table projects coming up, but now I’m curious...thanks for the great content as always 👍🏻
That’s an incredible method! So worth the look and feel it has! We can buy router bits to give a taper but not one that’s as customizable as your method so very neat! Now what about routing the inside of a round table top with a taper to the center? I’m sure it’s the same method but would be neat to see how you’d approach it
Thanks Jon, great idea, thinking about it, I wonder if a dished router bit (flat bottom with rounded vertical return edges) would help with the step and save sanding time. You're method would certainly save on the danger factor instead of trying to rig up a taper cut on a table saw for sure. Thanks mate, great vid as per usual.
Nice technique Jon! I thought that you were going to use a small hand plane first to flatten the ridges from the router & then do a quick sanding. That's how I would have done it. That is going to be one classy looking table top for sure! Be well & stay safe....👍👍😉😉😷😷!!
Thanks Steve, I did make one or two passes with a hand plane and then decided I didn’t want to risk screwing up the edge 😂 ... it was a lot of sanding!
john love your videos really informative👍. food for thought just a concept but if you know the angle of the taper you wanted could use a small scale version of flattening sled mounted on a wedge on the end of the circle jig? complicated to explain easier to send you a sketch if you're interested
I wonder if you used a chamfer bit and instead of bringing the jig in less than a quarter inch at a time but kept the rest of the technique the same if it would require less sanding but give the proper results
Hi! Great video. How would you do this on a rectangular table with 12/4 lumber? The width is currently 40” with an 8’ length. A quantity of 4, 10” wide 12/4 boards glued up. I considered a table saw since the components are linear, but the taper needs to be 6” so that won’t work. Also considered a jig for a bandsaw. Looking for the best method to accomplish this. Any thoughts?
Hey Jon, thanks for this very useful video - it’s a great technique. I have a question: how do you plan to stiffen or stabilize the top to all for seasonal movement, while preventing overall top warp over time. I have an upcoming table of similar design and was wondering how you are planning to overcome the potential wood movement. Love your work man!
For big tapers I found a 2-1/4" diameter "Horse Nose" router bit works well. They're very low cost on AliExpress and the carbide quality is as good as any domestic bits I have that cost 10x more. Best, @HoneyOnWales
Great video! What type of router bit did you use to cut your initial circle? Every time I cut a round table with my router, I get tearout (especially in walnut)
Great video Jon. Which sander is that? Looking to get a Festool and can't decide which type or size to get. I need it mainly for finishing since I use hand planes for heavy stock removal. Thanks.
C'mon Jon!!! Tip that table saw blade to a 7 degree angle. Pick up that big ass disc. Slap it against that Powermatic fence. Rotate that puppy and cut that angle like a bro!!! Totally kidding!! Amazing amazing amazing technique!!! If you've ever seen how most DIY luthiers carve Les Paul tops, they do a very similar thing with the graduated steps. Your attention to design is genuinely second to none! I watch an embarrassing amount of UA-cam videos, and there simply is not a woodworker out there that comes close to your technique, fore-thought, design, and artistic aesthetic. The fact that you are not head of R & D for Herman Miller or some design house like that is a crime against humanity!
Ha ha 👍 thanks Michael that really means a lot to me... I would love to work in a shop one day with two or Three professional woodworkers and focus more on the design then the building. Thanks again Buddy
one way to avoid drilling directly into the top is to set a piece w/ blue tape and some CA glue with blue tape and CA glue to the top. then the jig itself can be screwed into that piece.
@@Wordsnwood Thanks, yes I understand that for his purpose it's not necessary. I was just providing an idea for an alternative method for those who don't want holes in their workpiece.
If this were me I would lose track of which hole I had last used for the pivot point somewhere in the middle and ruin the table. That’s why all of my tables are actually 3 inches smaller than anticipated.
Was it difficult to keep the edge thickness consistent because of all the sanding? I imagine you just kind of snuck up on it as you went through the grits, but that's a step that would definitely screw me up. :)
I did this on a much smaller table and it was mentally challenging. Did I say stressful? Trying not to ruin the wood. It took a long time to sand and sand...
Sorry to tell you this after the fact.... If you build a "wedge" with the angle you want on your circle jig you can save yourself a lot of time with sanding and you can then remove it when you want straight cuts in the future and add it in when you want angled cuts on a circle..... Need a slot to move the router along on the outside of the jig then but its easy with a few T bolts and a bit of ply wood. Then you keep the depth the same on the router and it cuts the angle as you move the router further in along the jig and up the ramp. By moving the router in along the "wedge" and keeping the depth the same on the bit you get a smoother angle to finish after the different passes are done. After taking it all out with a roughing pass you can then come back for a last close pass just moving the router along the wedge to adjust the angle with a surfacing bit taking off a little bit of wood on that pass and then yea, saves you ALOT of sanding time. If its any consolation.... I got told this after the fact as well. I spent about 2 hours with cleaning up the edges on mine with the sander. So your faster than me and less reason to be angry at yourself because its such a simple solution.
I love the technique. It came out beautiful. However I feel like that look will diminish the amount of table top surface. I would put the taper on the bottom of the table. How do you feel about that?
Hi all, I'm building the table top for my next project out of 5/4 white oak. To give the table a lighter and more elegant look I’m tapering it from the bottom to five eights of an inch at the edge. Over the years I've noticed that small design decisions like this one can make all the difference. thanks for watching and have a nice weekend, Jon
To help support the show please consider making your next tool purchase from my Acme Tools Store... Thanks!
Jon what about using a finish nail for the pivot point and not the screw ? That way you can just pick up the jig and move it the next hole and always insure your in the same pivot point.
What sander are you using?
That's the first time I've seen that method, Jon, pretty slick.
Over the years I have learned so much from you Jon, and today again you showed me a technique i have not seen before. That was truly a fantastic way to do the tapering
Great to hear! Thank you
Great job! What a difference a tapered edge makes on a round table like this. Gives it a very clean contemporary look.
Thank you!
i like the finish. but i also think the 'stepped' design
looked cool too as a finished product.
The Sage Agreed! Had an Art Deco vibe and reminded me of the Guggenheim.
I must say I quite liked that too, Art Deco, yes.
The band Devo likes it too
Very nice. Your patience paid off beautifully.
That worked out better than I expected it to. Can't wait to see the finished table. Thanks Jon!
Thanks Mark
What a beautiful tapered edge! Thanks for sharing your skill.
Always like your technique breakdown videos. They do a great job of highlighting your process and providing a detailed look at a particular skill or method. Thanks for sharing.
Briliant! and much safer than what I might have done... standing it up vertically on a table saw with the blade all the way up. Yeah your method takes more sanding, but the ER takes up way more time. Thank you!
It is very elegant. Excellent job.
Very creative, thanks for sharing
One of the better things I have seen you do! Good job!
WOW!! Impressed me. Love how you did that. I'm definitely going to try it.
Excellent idea and technique. If I ever make a round table I will definitely be using your method to make a taper like this. Brilliant!
Thanks
Gosh that turned out beautiful! Can’t wait to see finish on that top!
Nice. Can't wait to see it completed. Thanks for sharing
That table bottom looks awesome. Great method!
very good as always 💯👍👏👏👏👏👏
You know you're slick Bud!!! You know it!! That was an ingenious idea & at first I was confused as to what you were trying to accomplish!!! Sorry for delayed comment Bro., but, you know I was living it up wit some Ballerz!! Hoping all is well, Dirty Jersey out!!
Thanks Brother! Looked like a great Time!
Wow, that is really beautiful. Thank you for sharing the technique. I am certain it will add the elegant impression you are looking for. The evenness of the taper all around is fantastic. I am looking for a similar taper on an oval table I am planning and my brain is excitedly thinking how this stepped router technique can be adapted maybe using an oval plywood template. Looking forward to seeing the rest of the table come together. Thanks again for sharing your skills.
Great work on tapering the table top edge Jon! Thank you for sharing the video with us!💖👍👌😎JP
Thanks JP
Your very welcome Jon! Have a wonderful weekend!😎
Thanks for sharing that technique, Jon~! I've not seen that one yet, but it made perfect sense to do it that way. Can't wait to see the finished table (if you show it).
Beautiful work! I look forward to how you will address the supporting legs for the table.
Great solution. I've seen similar tapers done on square table tops by running it vertically through a table saw or with a temporary built-up edge & a track saw, but neither of those would work for such a large, circular top. Looks great!
Using a dado stack on an angle?
David Shaper no need for a dado stack, regular blade is what you’d want, but it would only work on smaller pieces. Mostly it works for straight edges, but I have seen people rig up a jig to allow a circular piece to rotate through the blade. The key to doing it safely is to build a tall vertical fence for your piece to register against (keeping it vertical) that is SOLIDLY attached to your normal table saw rip fence. Then you angle the blade to the bevel angle you want, adjust the whole fence assembly to start the bevel at the desired distance from the top, and carefully slide it through.
Jon, you crack me up! Never used a router to cut a circle, then you go and do some crazy tapering with it! Taking it to the next level. I bet you are glad it worked out. There is no going back after that first cut! Also, did I see a new sander in there? Looks great bud! Keep it up.
😂👍 Thanks Ian.. that’s for sure!
Great tutorial Jon. Thank you for sharing it with us.
Awesome can’t wait to see the final table
Looks good, love the process for forming the edge.
Great video. Direct and to the point. Very informative. Thank you.
Great technique Jon! Loved your way of cable management
I always learn something on your channel. Thanks.
I wonder if tilting the router would be an option, would need less sending.
Do you think you could glue a wedge on the jig, under the router so it’s at an angle of the taper? Then run the same process?...Starting hole may vary ;) I’d love to see how that would work on another project. I don’t have any table projects coming up, but now I’m curious...thanks for the great content as always 👍🏻
Solid idea!
That’s a great idea and definitely something I would consider next time.
A very cool technique! Thanks for the great video, Jon. 👍🏻
Thank John for the great video. Can you use the same technique for a rectangular table top, I mean use a plunge router with different jig obviously.
That’s an incredible method! So worth the look and feel it has! We can buy router bits to give a taper but not one that’s as customizable as your method so very neat! Now what about routing the inside of a round table top with a taper to the center? I’m sure it’s the same method but would be neat to see how you’d approach it
Outstanding tutorial. Thanks!
Brilliant. Definitely gonna try this. Thanks.
Fantastic, love your work
Thanks Jon, great idea, thinking about it, I wonder if a dished router bit (flat bottom with rounded vertical return edges) would help with the step and save sanding time. You're method would certainly save on the danger factor instead of trying to rig up a taper cut on a table saw for sure. Thanks mate, great vid as per usual.
Great idea; learned alot(I have a lot to learn though.) cheers...rr Normandy, Fra.
very clever ! thanks
Nice technique Jon! I thought that you were going to use a small hand plane first to flatten the ridges from the router & then do a quick sanding. That's how I would have done it. That is going to be one classy looking table top for sure! Be well & stay safe....👍👍😉😉😷😷!!
Thanks Steve, I did make one or two passes with a hand plane and then decided I didn’t want to risk screwing up the edge 😂 ... it was a lot of sanding!
john love your videos really informative👍.
food for thought just a concept but if you know the angle of the taper you wanted could use a small scale version of flattening sled mounted on a wedge on the end of the circle jig? complicated to explain easier to send you a sketch if you're interested
Great tip Jon
Excelente 👍, gracias a tu vídeo, profesor carpintero
Nice! Great idea!💜
Super cool John.
Sweet idea! Subscribed
I wonder if you used a chamfer bit and instead of bringing the jig in less than a quarter inch at a time but kept the rest of the technique the same if it would require less sanding but give the proper results
We’ll done! 👍🏼 I suppose you could use a belt sander to more quickly smooth it out.
Thanks, I thought about it but didn’t want to risk it.
Great tips!
well done.
Nice brother
the mystery has been solved, thank you!
Well this video just triggered my Google Home. Got an 1 hour 20 minute timer set for me. :D
an hour and twenty minutes of sanding... now that would be a video that should be sponsored by Audible. Or Isotunes. 😁
Thanks a lot Jon, do you see this jig working on an Elliptical table top?
very very gooooooooooooooood
Interesting Jon, Stay Safe Buddie !!!.
Dang... that’s amazing. 👍
great method, excellent result! is there any way to do a round edge of about 3/4 of the thickness?
Hi! Great video. How would you do this on a rectangular table with 12/4 lumber? The width is currently 40” with an 8’ length. A quantity of 4, 10” wide 12/4 boards glued up.
I considered a table saw since the components are linear, but the taper needs to be 6” so that won’t work. Also considered a jig for a bandsaw.
Looking for the best method to accomplish this. Any thoughts?
Love it!
Hey Jon, thanks for this very useful video - it’s a great technique. I have a question: how do you plan to stiffen or stabilize the top to all for seasonal movement, while preventing overall top warp over time.
I have an upcoming table of similar design and was wondering how you are planning to overcome the potential wood movement. Love your work man!
Thanks, I’m posting a video later today that will explain that
What do you think about shimming up the inside edge of the router to make the cut at an angle? It would cut down on the sanding a lot
That’s a great idea!
I actually thought that was what you were going to do.
For big tapers I found a 2-1/4" diameter "Horse Nose" router bit works well. They're very low cost on AliExpress and the carbide quality is as good as any domestic bits I have that cost 10x more. Best, @HoneyOnWales
Hi Drew, I’ve never used one of those... I’ll have to check it out.
Great video! What type of router bit did you use to cut your initial circle? Every time I cut a round table with my router, I get tearout (especially in walnut)
Great video Jon.
Which sander is that? Looking to get a Festool and can't decide which type or size to get. I need it mainly for finishing since I use hand planes for heavy stock removal. Thanks.
That looks great Jon. Did you have any problem with tear out as you would be going against the grain half the time?
Thanks
Thanks Peter, yes I did get a little chipping but no problems because I was taking such light passes
what do you suggest for putting the same type of taper on a long piece of timber, eg I'm working on a rectangular table top.
Hi any vid of you finishing the top...varnishing i mean..
C'mon Jon!!! Tip that table saw blade to a 7 degree angle. Pick up that big ass disc. Slap it against that Powermatic fence. Rotate that puppy and cut that angle like a bro!!! Totally kidding!! Amazing amazing amazing technique!!! If you've ever seen how most DIY luthiers carve Les Paul tops, they do a very similar thing with the graduated steps. Your attention to design is genuinely second to none! I watch an embarrassing amount of UA-cam videos, and there simply is not a woodworker out there that comes close to your technique, fore-thought, design, and artistic aesthetic. The fact that you are not head of R & D for Herman Miller or some design house like that is a crime against humanity!
Ha ha 👍 thanks Michael that really means a lot to me... I would love to work in a shop one day with two or Three professional woodworkers and focus more on the design then the building.
Thanks again Buddy
Hello, what router bit did you use to make the taper?
one way to avoid drilling directly into the top is to set a piece w/ blue tape and some CA glue with blue tape and CA glue to the top. then the jig itself can be screwed into that piece.
The understructure will cover that hole. (He's shown the model on his instagram, go check it out)
@@Wordsnwood Thanks, yes I understand that for his purpose it's not necessary. I was just providing an idea for an alternative method for those who don't want holes in their workpiece.
@@davidn7945 Ahh, Sorry bud.
If this were me I would lose track of which hole I had last used for the pivot point somewhere in the middle and ruin the table. That’s why all of my tables are actually 3 inches smaller than anticipated.
😂👍
That turned out beautiful. But oh man I bet your shop was a mess.
For sure! ... turn the camera off and break out the fan and a leaf blower 😂
Was it difficult to keep the edge thickness consistent because of all the sanding? I imagine you just kind of snuck up on it as you went through the grits, but that's a step that would definitely screw me up. :)
No not really... turned out good 👍
Is that the top or the bottom?
I did this on a much smaller table and it was mentally challenging. Did I say stressful? Trying not to ruin the wood. It took a long time to sand and sand...
What size straight bit is used?
Sorry to tell you this after the fact....
If you build a "wedge" with the angle you want on your circle jig you can save yourself a lot of time with sanding and you can then remove it when you want straight cuts in the future and add it in when you want angled cuts on a circle..... Need a slot to move the router along on the outside of the jig then but its easy with a few T bolts and a bit of ply wood. Then you keep the depth the same on the router and it cuts the angle as you move the router further in along the jig and up the ramp.
By moving the router in along the "wedge" and keeping the depth the same on the bit you get a smoother angle to finish after the different passes are done. After taking it all out with a roughing pass you can then come back for a last close pass just moving the router along the wedge to adjust the angle with a surfacing bit taking off a little bit of wood on that pass and then yea, saves you ALOT of sanding time.
If its any consolation.... I got told this after the fact as well. I spent about 2 hours with cleaning up the edges on mine with the sander. So your faster than me and less reason to be angry at yourself because its such a simple solution.
Bit of a no-brainer, I expected to see him do something like that.
👍 definitely the plan for next time
I love the technique. It came out beautiful. However I feel like that look will diminish the amount of table top surface.
I would put the taper on the bottom of the table.
How do you feel about that?
Why did I assume the taper was on the underside?
Several times he said it WAS the bottom of the table top - including a reply to someone who queried the pivot hole.
Thanks Don
How do u fix the hole in the middle?
Its on the bottom of the table
I doubt you'll ever get fed up with that table top but if you do you've got one serious clock face
Jon,
Is there a way to contact you to ask questions like e-mail or other Social Network?
Instagram generally works well. Best, @HoneyOnWales
Hi Art, Can you ask me here in the comments maybe it’s something I can answer in a video on my second channel
Hi Art, Can you ask me here in the comments maybe it’s something I can answer in a video on my second channel
IDK about practical, but cool none the less.
It seems masochistic to use inches for any kind of work.
👍😊🇮🇹
Love It 👍🏻