Thank you for showing how to do this! I was able to get a successful sliding joint on my first attempt. I plan to to use this for an expanding table I am going to build.
Yes, inspirational...Will try a test run to get it down and then figure a way to get it in a next project...I have been considering creating a sliding piece under my sink for the little waste can...Would probably need two slides...Thank you...Very helpful.
What you gave me is GOLDEN. I have been working on a scheme to make pullout trays in my lower cabinets. Already bought the bearing slides. The issue was that I wanted to make an upper tray adjustable without spending $150 per cabinet for a kit. The idea was to use 9 hinges and a recessed threaded knob to lock the boards into three shelf pin holes, fr CTR and bk. With a sliding set up, I can eliminate ALL of the hinges. Mount the shelf pins and rails to the boards and lock it all up with a knurled bolt from the side. I even took an idea from the Machinists and bought a 7 PC knurling tool on Amazon. I have a DeWalt parts bin with just 1/4-20 hardware. Knurling 9 bolts, screwing in a wood threaded nut and I have a means to make it work. Yeah, ALL of this, from your one tip. Thanks for sharing on UA-cam. I'm a disabled veteran and I have been planning my kitchen remodel for a month. When I get the cut list finished, we can begin.
@@blacktimbercompany5716 I've seen a few people here that have a number of sponsors. And that's of if they are producing new content. But some have more TV commercial than helping people. I've even noticed a trend where some of them actually copy each other. A different Take on the same idea. It could be scripted. Now, I have seen the sliding dovetail as a parlor trick and made into a cube. That one has no real purpose. It's a shelf warmer ready to collect dust. I saw not only a novel idea. It's also a solution to my cabinet tray problem. You reinvented the wheel.
This is the best video I’ve seen thanks for sharing it it’s late at night but I may go out to my shop and try this ,I’ll be watching your videos for sure now .
Thanks for taking the time to make *and* edit the video. I have to make a box that slides on and off and was going to go with a french cleat option. But this is way more secure. Thanks!
Well done. If you cut another set into the male part, used slightly thinner boards and added some stops, you could make full extension drawer slides. Great idea, buddy. Thanks.
That will work well with some drawers for an all wood entry table that I'm working on. Now to figure out how to mount them without glue or screws. Thanks for the video.
Great instructional video. Question: How do I accomplish the 30 degree angle on my table saw blade if I don’t have a pocket meter. Thank you for sharing
Too kool !!! This will work great for a table saw out feed table as an adjustable prop i can see maybe using dowels as pins spaced real close together???? Thanks
Question on an alternative use of this. If the male is the top of a hanging frame, probably about 10-15lbs. Do you think it would bind from the weight?
Thanks for sharing the process. I have made sliding dovetail joints, on a much smaller scale, using a router. The operation of the joint you made would be smoother if you clean up the flat portion of the female piece with a chisel or router plane. Certainly paste wax is a great benefit, even after cleaning out the female portion.
Literally refreshing a chest of drawers right now from my wifes child hood, meaning its old as dirt. All the drawer slides are falling apart and this popped up in my recommended vids, awesome thanks man!
Has anyone tried this on a really long slide? We had a table when I was growing up that used something like this to make several of these slides nested to make a 4 foot table able to add leaves to go to about 12 ft for big dinners. I was far to young to do more than think how cool it was that it was all wood and worked so well. My budding engineer mind was all for taking it apart to see how it working. My mom thought I should leave grandma's table in one piece for Thanksgiving. I never was able to play with it again. I would love to make one now. I think the 50 years I have thought about it may be enough that I am now ready to try. I am pretty much sure I was 4 that year and wow is that memory vivid
cool way to cut the dovetails do you think it would work under the middle board of the table top, with the sliding dovetail long rail underneath (along the grain) to keep the table top from sagging = flat. I don't want to use any frame under the table top. the bread boards will keep it flat on the short edges, and I'm thinking to use that sliding dovetail rail to keep the table flat on the long edge. my concern is, the table will shrink and expand, and that rail under middle board wld either get overly squeezed or too loose maybe? or would it expand the same amount as the connected board? I haven't seen anyone using sliding dovetail along the grain. wondering if that;'s doable.
thank you so much for making this video - very cool. My only wish is that you’d showed how to do the female portion where you cut out all the wood- i have no idea how to do that….I saw you slide it a bunch of times but i don’t know how you’re actually getting it to cut the wood out
Thanks for these awesome videos. I’m trying to build a fairly basic shelf, except I need it to fit inside of a closet with a small door, so I need to be able to assemble (and hopefully disassemble it when needed) easily inside the closet. Also, I have limited tools, I do have a miter saw, a circular power saw, some chisels that I’m terrible at using. I’m considering getting a router, as they are fairly affordable and don’t take up much storage space, not sure what bits I’d need (and bits seem pricey). I’m trying to avoid buying a table saw, as I don’t have the space for it, and do as few cuts as possible, so I’ll be getting pre-cut 2x4s for the legs (I think) and pre-cut shelves (48x15.75). Since I want it to be easy to assemble and disassemble, I’m trying to avoid screws and angle brackets as much as I can. I’ve been researching wood joints. Thinking something like a half lap or dovetail to prevent the frame that would hold the shelf from sliding in or out of the legs. Also considering trying to do dadoes in the main legs for the shelves to go into, but I’d still need something to make the whole thing stay together, and to stop the shelves from sliding out. Or maybe just a mortise & tenon with some soft of a peg, to stop it from sliding out for the long way part of the frame, and maybe halved lap joint for the short way to hold it all together. Hopefully this makes sense, any suggestions for joints and tools needed?
This is great. I had a couple of thoughts regarding the female portion of the dovetail: I don't think you need to mark it out at all. The depth of the cut is already set from when you finished the male portion. So if you start cutting from the middle and turn (not flip) the board 180° after each cut then you can work your way outward. This has two advantages: the first one is that the female dovetail will be cut precisely into the middle of the board, secondly you only have to move the fence half as many times.
Awesome walk-through of the process and the paste wax is a golden oldie solution. Thank you for showing us how it's done. You also seem like a really cool guy.
Excellent description and showing how to do it. My son-in-law plans on making another table for his wife. This could work to make the table extend a little if wanted. will be checking out more videos of yours. Also I was wondering if you sanded the pieces a little?
I've been planing out a kitchen table with a leaf extension. It is my first big woodworking project so I am learning A TON OF NEW INFO. I was wondering if this would be a good idea for the slides on the table? I've seen many ideas but most of them use equipment that I don't own, but I have a table saw!
If you were to make these as sliders for a large drawer, what would you say the weight capacity would be? I want to make a recording studio desk with a slide-out piano keyboard tray roughly 58” wide and 16” deep, and this idea intrigues me as an alternative to standard drawer sliders. It would need to accommodate about 80 lb without warping or binding.
@@blacktimbercompany5716 I definitely will. I can rig up a small test shelf and use some bricks to simulate the weight. The challenge from there will be ensuring the shelf stays flat and perpendicular so it doesn’t bind while sliding in & out.
That was an awesome video! I looked all morning for this information. There are a lot of videos showing routers being used, but yours is the only one I saw using the table saw. You wouldn't happen to have a video showing how you mount them, would you? Liked, shared and subscribed.
As some already mentioned this is great for only inaccurate modules/assemblies, as pointed out in the description. Otherwise much tighter tolerances/play would be needed. The good news is the same idea can be applied, perhaps even with a circular saw with a bit of careful patience?
Thanks for showing how to do this. I have been thinking of using this joinery for attaching two vertical 2x2 poles to the wall of a box, to support an overhanging structure on top of the vertical poles.
Thanks for the helpful video. Did you find that seasonal expansion and contraction caused the joint to tighten or jam? Did you incorporate some "wiggle room" for that?
Thank you. I actually made this for a client of mine. It was installed in the back of his truck and his hawks that he trains to hunt with would perch on a piece of wood that sit on top of this slide. He was able to slide the hawks out with ease while they were perched. Look through the comments there are a few ideas being shared.
Awesome work! Just wondering, the offcut at 4:25 looks like it's about to kickback because it's contacting the back of the blade. Besides a riving knife, is there a safer way to do this?
Hello, thank you for explaining your great videos so clearly, and thank you once again for sharing your ideas. I am Cuban and I only speak a little English, please forgive me if I have any spelling mistakes.
You would just have to be careful not to tighten the fit too much with the extra thickness by adding poly. Also I wonder, depending on the type of poly, could it make it somewhat sticky. I'd do a test piece first.
Thanks, here is a link to those products. www.rockler.com/micro-jig-grr-ripper-basic-3d-push-block-system-gr-100?sid=V9146?PL&gclid=CjwKCAiAis3vBRBdEiwAHXB29O1A6qi2BLUq1ADqQKTuRpIeNBIwQOvOqpZcH4PJGEG5X6aUl4GyPRoCHdMQAvD_BwE www.amazon.com/Backlight-Digital-Protractor-Inclinometer-Magnetic/dp/B00WQLHG2G/ref=asc_df_B00WQLHG2G/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312069079894&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15061490694202654432&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9029673&hvtargid=aud-801738734305:pla-524755923058&psc=1
I tried this, but made a modification. I cut off the points that ride deep in the groove instead of widening the cut. -- I still use this method when I'm cutting really wide dovetails. I hog out the material with a tablesaw, then come in with a router and clean everything up.
Only problem is trying to get a flat bottom. I use the table saw to make slots and getting the saw curf remains out is easy in the main but hard in the corners and keep everything flat. Just like yours. And trying to get the big sections to mate and not just the small runners on the top. More support on the big runner with the top floating.
I made one of these a few years back to make a pull out tray in a cabinet. To get a clean bottom I used a router plane (hand tool). If I didn't have that I might have stuck some sandpaper on the bottom of one of the offcuts.
No surprise it slides smoothly because it's way too loose! Of course it depends on what the purpose is but if you consider making furniture you would have to improve the precision otherwise your joints wouldn't be tight enough. But the idea of making it with a table saw is basically a good idea.
Thank you for showing how to do this! I was able to get a successful sliding joint on my first attempt. I plan to to use this for an expanding table I am going to build.
Your work is second to none may God continue to bless you and your family outstanding job
Yes, inspirational...Will try a test run to get it down and then figure a way to get it in a next project...I have been considering creating a sliding piece under my sink for the little waste can...Would probably need two slides...Thank you...Very helpful.
I just made these today. My first time making them. This was a great video as a sanity check so I don't mess up ! Thanks!
What you gave me is GOLDEN. I have been working on a scheme to make pullout trays in my lower cabinets. Already bought the bearing slides.
The issue was that I wanted to make an upper tray adjustable without spending $150 per cabinet for a kit. The idea was to use 9 hinges and a recessed threaded knob to lock the boards into three shelf pin holes, fr CTR and bk.
With a sliding set up, I can eliminate ALL of the hinges. Mount the shelf pins and rails to the boards and lock it all up with a knurled bolt from the side. I even took an idea from the Machinists and bought a 7 PC knurling tool on Amazon. I have a DeWalt parts bin with just 1/4-20 hardware. Knurling 9 bolts, screwing in a wood threaded nut and I have a means to make it work.
Yeah, ALL of this, from your one tip. Thanks for sharing on UA-cam. I'm a disabled veteran and I have been planning my kitchen remodel for a month. When I get the cut list finished, we can begin.
That’s awesome! Thank you so much for the comment, it’s always nice to hear from you guys especially when the videos help.
@@blacktimbercompany5716 I've seen a few people here that have a number of sponsors. And that's of if they are producing new content.
But some have more TV commercial than helping people. I've even noticed a trend where some of them actually copy each other. A different Take on the same idea. It could be scripted. Now, I have seen the sliding dovetail as a parlor trick and made into a cube.
That one has no real purpose. It's a shelf warmer ready to collect dust. I saw not only a novel idea. It's also a solution to my cabinet tray problem. You reinvented the wheel.
Thank you much! Have been pondering how to get a slide on an awkward shaped drawer. This worked perfect!
This is the best video I’ve seen thanks for sharing it it’s late at night but I may go out to my shop and try this ,I’ll be watching your videos for sure now .
Awesome, just what i needed for my secret desk im making! Was gonna use router table but this will work much better on the bigger material
This was useful to see. What would be the longest piece that you would use?
Thanks for sharing I think I'll try this option for a few drawers. Just have to figure out a stop system, but have a few ideas.
Thanks for taking the time to make *and* edit the video. I have to make a box that slides on and off and was going to go with a french cleat option. But this is way more secure. Thanks!
Great demonstration! I think I would cut my samples several feet long and then crosscut them for multiple drawers.
Well done. If you cut another set into the male part, used slightly thinner boards and added some stops, you could make full extension drawer slides. Great idea, buddy. Thanks.
That will work well with some drawers for an all wood entry table that I'm working on. Now to figure out how to mount them without glue or screws. Thanks for the video.
Great instructional video. Question: How do I accomplish the 30 degree angle on my table saw blade if I don’t have a pocket meter. Thank you for sharing
Great video, thanks. What other woods will hold up as drawer slide material? Oak, poplar, maple, pine, ...
I had looked for months to find this and I just came across it, I'm saving it and subscribing to your channel. Thanks
Too kool !!! This will work great for a table saw out feed table as an adjustable prop i can see maybe using dowels as pins spaced real close together???? Thanks
Heck yeah, great idea!
Question on an alternative use of this. If the male is the top of a hanging frame, probably about 10-15lbs. Do you think it would bind from the weight?
How would you add stops to drawer slides like these to keep the drawer from coming out all of the way?
Nice video. Thanks!
Thanks for sharing the process. I have made sliding dovetail joints, on a much smaller scale, using a router. The operation of the joint you made would be smoother if you clean up the flat portion of the female piece with a chisel or router plane. Certainly paste wax is a great benefit, even after cleaning out the female portion.
Literally refreshing a chest of drawers right now from my wifes child hood, meaning its old as dirt. All the drawer slides are falling apart and this popped up in my recommended vids, awesome thanks man!
Haha that’s awesome! Funny how that works. Sounds like an awesome project to undertake.
You still married two months after calling your wife "old as dirt"? Lol.
@@andrewbriscoe2481 she doesnt read my youtube comments thankfully:)
Has anyone tried this on a really long slide? We had a table when I was growing up that used something like this to make several of these slides nested to make a 4 foot table able to add leaves to go to about 12 ft for big dinners. I was far to young to do more than think how cool it was that it was all wood and worked so well. My budding engineer mind was all for taking it apart to see how it working. My mom thought I should leave grandma's table in one piece for Thanksgiving. I never was able to play with it again. I would love to make one now. I think the 50 years I have thought about it may be enough that I am now ready to try. I am pretty much sure I was 4 that year and wow is that memory vivid
I am now 72 and still have one fond memory from when I was 4. That memory is of playing with my dog.
You killed it man, i wrote this before watching. Just liked the idea
Thank you!!
cool way to cut the dovetails
do you think it would work under the middle board of the table top, with the sliding dovetail long rail underneath (along the grain) to keep the table top from sagging = flat.
I don't want to use any frame under the table top. the bread boards will keep it flat on the short edges, and I'm thinking to use that sliding dovetail rail to keep the table flat on the long edge.
my concern is, the table will shrink and expand, and that rail under middle board wld either get overly squeezed or too loose maybe? or would it expand the same amount as the connected board? I haven't seen anyone using sliding dovetail along the grain. wondering if that;'s doable.
Did you ever try this? curious how it turned out
thank you so much for making this video - very cool. My only wish is that you’d showed how to do the female portion where you cut out all the wood- i have no idea how to do that….I saw you slide it a bunch of times but i don’t know how you’re actually getting it to cut the wood out
Thanks for these awesome videos. I’m trying to build a fairly basic shelf, except I need it to fit inside of a closet with a small door, so I need to be able to assemble (and hopefully disassemble it when needed) easily inside the closet. Also, I have limited tools, I do have a miter saw, a circular power saw, some chisels that I’m terrible at using. I’m considering getting a router, as they are fairly affordable and don’t take up much storage space, not sure what bits I’d need (and bits seem pricey). I’m trying to avoid buying a table saw, as I don’t have the space for it, and do as few cuts as possible, so I’ll be getting pre-cut 2x4s for the legs (I think) and pre-cut shelves (48x15.75). Since I want it to be easy to assemble and disassemble, I’m trying to avoid screws and angle brackets as much as I can. I’ve been researching wood joints. Thinking something like a half lap or dovetail to prevent the frame that would hold the shelf from sliding in or out of the legs. Also considering trying to do dadoes in the main legs for the shelves to go into, but I’d still need something to make the whole thing stay together, and to stop the shelves from sliding out. Or maybe just a mortise & tenon with some soft of a peg, to stop it from sliding out for the long way part of the frame, and maybe halved lap joint for the short way to hold it all together. Hopefully this makes sense, any suggestions for joints and tools needed?
Ron said perfect woodworker !!!
This is great. I had a couple of thoughts regarding the female portion of the dovetail: I don't think you need to mark it out at all. The depth of the cut is already set from when you finished the male portion. So if you start cutting from the middle and turn (not flip) the board 180° after each cut then you can work your way outward. This has two advantages: the first one is that the female dovetail will be cut precisely into the middle of the board, secondly you only have to move the fence half as many times.
I agree but trust me...as you get older you'll realize that orientation marks help.
@@thegreyoutdoors7860 Agreed. Age has some advantages, but eyesight usually ain't one of them. Taking afternoon naps guilt free is..
I was looking for exactly this. Thanks for making this video so simple to follow.
Awesome walk-through of the process and the paste wax is a golden oldie solution. Thank you for showing us how it's done. You also seem like a really cool guy.
Glad you showed how to do this. These wooden drawer glides cost $20 each at woodworking stores.
Excellent description and showing how to do it. My son-in-law plans on making another table for his wife. This could work to make the table extend a little if wanted. will be checking out more videos of yours. Also I was wondering if you sanded the pieces a little?
I've been planing out a kitchen table with a leaf extension. It is my first big woodworking project so I am learning A TON OF NEW INFO. I was wondering if this would be a good idea for the slides on the table? I've seen many ideas but most of them use equipment that I don't own, but I have a table saw!
Megan, did you ever try this out for your table? Curious how it turned out as I'm considering the same for one I'm doing.
Thanks for sharing. Love this joint. Do you think it could be used for positioning a tablefence ?
Love it, will definitely try this technique out! Thanks for sharing.
Hi
Like the idea of miniaturising this and using it as a sliding lid on a box would be very interesting 🤔
Sir, nice job. What is your opinion of the Gripper push block?
You know, this could be used to make the actual side wall of the drawer, with the slide incorporated into the drawer itself.
If you were to make these as sliders for a large drawer, what would you say the weight capacity would be? I want to make a recording studio desk with a slide-out piano keyboard tray roughly 58” wide and 16” deep, and this idea intrigues me as an alternative to standard drawer sliders. It would need to accommodate about 80 lb without warping or binding.
I bet that if you made them thick enough and didn’t have them come out to far you would be totally fine. Definitely give it a shot.
@@blacktimbercompany5716 I definitely will. I can rig up a small test shelf and use some bricks to simulate the weight. The challenge from there will be ensuring the shelf stays flat and perpendicular so it doesn’t bind while sliding in & out.
I have used this technique on chopping board ends. It made a nice contrast with Utile and Sycamore.
That was an awesome video! I looked all morning for this information. There are a lot of videos showing routers being used, but yours is the only one I saw using the table saw. You wouldn't happen to have a video showing how you mount them, would you? Liked, shared and subscribed.
Thank you so much, unfortunately I don’t have a video showing that, but I’ll have to make one. Thanks so much for your support!
As some already mentioned this is great for only inaccurate modules/assemblies, as pointed out in the description. Otherwise much tighter tolerances/play would be needed. The good news is the same idea can be applied, perhaps even with a circular saw with a bit of careful patience?
Not necessarily with the judicious use of wax methinks
awesome, just awesome.. thanks for sharing !!!
Thanks for showing how to do this. I have been thinking of using this joinery for attaching two vertical 2x2 poles to the wall of a box, to support an overhanging structure on top of the vertical poles.
and it worked !
Could paste wax be replaced with paint, or should I use paste wax over top the paint. 🤔 great video by the way 🤗
Can you achieve close coordination with this method
Looks great slides nice going to try it neat work
Thanks for the helpful video. Did you find that seasonal expansion and contraction caused the joint to tighten or jam? Did you incorporate some "wiggle room" for that?
No, with a piece that small you’ll see hardly any movement, especially if your using fully dried wood
I will use this technique as soon as possible but I feel like using sandpaper to make it better fit
Awesome. Should of watched your video yesterday before I ordered ball bearing slides on Ebay. Lol.
M 7
Really awesome technique thanks for the video!
what is that paste wax thing? does this make wood slide over other wood?
Nice work Man! Can you tell some of applications with this? Thanks!
Thank you. I actually made this for a client of mine. It was installed in the back of his truck and his hawks that he trains to hunt with would perch on a piece of wood that sit on top of this slide. He was able to slide the hawks out with ease while they were perched. Look through the comments there are a few ideas being shared.
@@blacktimbercompany5716 Very Nice! Thanks for sharing
Well done, and thanks for posting! I had to rebuild a friend's broken dresser and replace the dovetail sliders , and this is exactly what I needed.
Great video. I’m looking at a PT Wood sliding cabinet pump on an exterior project. Would PT wood work?
Awesome work! Just wondering, the offcut at 4:25 looks like it's about to kickback because it's contacting the back of the blade. Besides a riving knife, is there a safer way to do this?
It's very beautiful idea thanks for sharing
Great Video, that helped me tremendously!
Hello, thank you for explaining your great videos so clearly, and thank you once again for sharing your ideas. I am Cuban and I only speak a little English, please forgive me if I have any spelling mistakes.
Awesome. Thanks for the ideas
Excellent video! Thanks
Is it better to leave the wood bare or is it okay to stain and add poly along with the paste wax?
You would just have to be careful not to tighten the fit too much with the extra thickness by adding poly.
Also I wonder, depending on the type of poly, could it make it somewhat sticky.
I'd do a test piece first.
@@jimweisgram9185 I kept it bare with just stain.
Seems to be sliding well.
Very nice, great explanation. You made this seem simple.
I kinda wish you hadn't made the final cleanout cuts, a bit of sanding could have made this joint super tight! But, good job and nicely presented.
Yeah that would have a been a good idea. Thanks for the feedback.
@@blacktimbercompany5716 Looking forward to more projects from such a fine craftsman!
nice work, big hug from portugal
Good video. Please keep posting
Very good idea mate first time watching one of your vids but defo subscribed.👍👍
Awesome, I am glad you found my channel!
Excellent idea nice work, what are the 2 items you use for the angle on the blade and the jig on top of timber when cutting, cheers
Thanks, here is a link to those products.
www.rockler.com/micro-jig-grr-ripper-basic-3d-push-block-system-gr-100?sid=V9146?PL&gclid=CjwKCAiAis3vBRBdEiwAHXB29O1A6qi2BLUq1ADqQKTuRpIeNBIwQOvOqpZcH4PJGEG5X6aUl4GyPRoCHdMQAvD_BwE
www.amazon.com/Backlight-Digital-Protractor-Inclinometer-Magnetic/dp/B00WQLHG2G/ref=asc_df_B00WQLHG2G/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312069079894&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15061490694202654432&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9029673&hvtargid=aud-801738734305:pla-524755923058&psc=1
Well done, did you try to wax it before the final adjustment ? It’s a little bit loose. Thank you , great idea.
I didn’t, this was just a demonstration I wasn’t to worried about it being as loose as it was.
It is not loose it's perfectly fit
If seen these on many of the older furniture I have redone. So far I haven't had to replace them. If I do now I know how too. Thank you!!
That’s great, glad it was helpful!
Спасибо за идею, интересное решение!
Used this for sections of bookcases with sliding sections for hidden hidey holes. Works fantastic for the weight distribution.
That sounds intriguing. Can you post pictures?
So satisfying to watch that slide back and forth haha
Haha thanks Marcus!
@@blacktimbercompany5716 wow man almost a million views on this one! Congrats!
very nice tip...congratulation from Brazil
I love the simplicity of this slide. Great filmed also. I just wonder what wax you are using?
It looked like Johnson paste was to me.
It’s Minwax paste finishing wax. Great stuff!
What would you use it for other than a drawer slide at the bottom? I love the idea but cannot figure out a purpose for it
nice. could be use as a stem for a home made pillar drill
Dang, that would be a good idea, let me know how it turns out if you do it.
@@blacktimbercompany5716 i was thinking of a handmade mortising machine with a drilling machine. and saw the thumbnail video n got the idea
Not bad at all, thanks for the lessons..
very good,
Can it be used as a duct in the cloud doors?
Thanks, it sure what I know what a cloud door it.
Very nice
Very well done!!! Great idea!!!
Who makes the push block you’re using?
It’s by a company called Micro-Jig called the GRR-RIPPER
Awesome clip!
I tried this, but made a modification. I cut off the points that ride deep in the groove instead of widening the cut.
-- I still use this method when I'm cutting really wide dovetails. I hog out the material with a tablesaw, then come in with a router and clean everything up.
Good technique! Thank you so much!
Great video
Awesome informational educational video experience Y'alls
Well done video, straight forward instructions, video and audio were very clear.
That’s great to hear, I really appreciate the feedback.
Well done body!!!👍Thanks for share your ideas.
Appreciate that!
very clever! thx
Gracias amigo por tu demostración, thanks friend for your demo”
I’m a finish carpenter, i have never done this , just in case very good idea , new sub here 👌🏽
Great job buddy. Thanks for sharing
Thanks for stopping by! 🙏
Only problem is trying to get a flat bottom. I use the table saw to make slots and getting the saw curf remains out is easy in the main but hard in the corners and keep everything flat. Just like yours. And trying to get the big sections to mate and not just the small runners on the top. More support on the big runner with the top floating.
I made one of these a few years back to make a pull out tray in a cabinet. To get a clean bottom I used a router plane (hand tool).
If I didn't have that I might have stuck some sandpaper on the bottom of one of the offcuts.
@@jimweisgram9185 router plane is THE way to go !
This is very cool. Subbed.
Super helpful video!! Thank you for sharing 🙏🏻
Thank you!
You truly have great woodworking skills. thank you
No surprise it slides smoothly because it's way too loose! Of course it depends on what the purpose is but if you consider making furniture you would have to improve the precision otherwise your joints wouldn't be tight enough. But the idea of making it with a table saw is basically a good idea.
Good job.
Brilliant job👍