I went back and looked thru several of your other videos after seeing the first minute of this one and from my experience installing north of 30 Holley sniper systems and repairing a boat load of sniper systems installed by other people/places I have no doubt that your wiring is causing you at least some of your problems if not the majority. Holley's instructions suck. They're not nearly detailed enough to get a system installed without problems. It is however the best entry level system on the market for sure and they work great if installed well. You can figure on spending about $2500-3000 just in parts to get one installed and running right. 1. The external fuel pumps/systems are garbage, I've had a ton of them fail, 3 in a row on 1 car last summer. They offer an upgraded external pump for an extra $100+. I won't install anything but an in tank return less fuel pump from Holley, Walbro or Aeromotive. Don't use aluminum fuel line either, it will crack and leak after a little while. Run lines outside the frame if your using new. 2. At least a 1/2" fiber spacer under the TB or a phenolic one work best for keeping heat off the ECU and the noise down from the IAC. 3. I can't stress enough how important the wiring and how it is routed is. The wiring needs to be kept separate from the vehicle wiring and as far away from the dizzy, plug wires, coil, alternator wiring as possible. Do not zip tie it together or to any other wires in the harness. I usually run down the back of the manifold under the dizzy and I use shielded wire covering from McMaster-Carr that's expensive to cover the wiring if I'm within 6" of anything ignition. You need to check where you get the key on source with a meter and make sure it not only retains 12v cranking but also that it drops to 0v immediately when keyed off. If it has .01v you'll have problems with the GFC file saving or strange drivability possibly. Having your wiring to the coil laying on top of the power wires across your firewall is a no-no in my book. If you ran your Sniper wiring thru the firewall pass thru next to the original truck wiring that's a no-no. Pull it out, drill a hole down behind the engine above the trans and run the holley wiring by itself thru the hole. Don't zip tie it to other wiring under your dash either. Keep it separate. 4. Solder, solder, solder all your connections and heat shrink them. The less splices the better. Don't crimp end terminals on to connect to anything. 5. I cut any excess wiring out and re-pin connectors, don't bundle it up and stuff it under the dash or zip tie it to other wiring. 6. The ECU in the TB is a poor idea. You can get RFI interference from the air cleaner housing being to close to the dizzy cap or plug wires. Always make sure you have a gasket on top the unit under the air cleaner housing. I build the air cleaner stud out of Delrin rod and use a plastic or fiber washer with plastic wing nut. I've seen a metal air cleaner stud act like a antenna causing RFI interference making the ECU miss data points. 7. I only install the systems with the complete Hyperspark ignition with it. Dizzy, CDI box, Coil, etc.. You need to have timing control to really get the benefits of EFI and to make it run correctly. Make sure to check and verify your timing and setup the inductive delay. 8. You NEED a laptop with the pro tuning software and knowledge of what you're doing or have it professionally tuned. Your wasting your time tuning with the handheld. Plug it in and use it for an AFR readout after you get it tuned with a laptop. If your not experienced at tuning or with EFI your going to fight this thing for awhile. It is not "Plug and Play" "Self tuning" easy as they say. Not even close. 9. Make sure you don't have exhaust leaks pre 02 sensor and I put it 6-10" from where the collectors come together. Check for vacuum leaks also. 10. I'm to tired to keep going, I'll try to get the rest put on here tomorrow sometime. One more thing, ALWAYS connect straight to the battery at the battery and very good grounds.
I agree with everything you said. I do however feel like my wiring wasn't terrible, it looks bad here but that's because I spent time the first time and had everything too close to other things. So I had to separate everything especially the white coil wire and pink power wire. Once I sperated that that fixed most of my issues. This issue however seemed to be either heat or something issue. Basically I could drive for around an hour and then the Holley would lean out to 20-30 afr. If I left it for another hour it would be fine
@@JovaniDanteGriego I don't think I have installed a single system yet that I didn't have at least one problem or another with. Do you know how to take a data log and view it with data points? You can VERIFY by using the data logs if the wiring is the cause of your problem or not. If you take a data log, save it, get on your laptop and open it, zoom in on the log and then in the main window right click your mouse and select (mark data points) in the window that opens. This will show up on the timeline as little dots every time the ECU collects and sends it's data from the sensors. You want to zoom in close to see the spacing between the dots. It should be uniform from the start to the finish with even spacing between the dots. Most of the time I've had problems with them when looking at the data logs there will be random sections where there is 1",2",3" gaps between the dots or longer and that is the ECU not getting the data or sending bad signals because of RFI interference. If all the data points are uniform and spaced the same then your wiring is not the issue and you can prove it.
Who wants to go through all this crap to make TB EFI work? I put a new engine in my car and tuned the carb in about an hour after many test runs and reading plugs. It runs like a scalded dog. Why does anyone want an aftermarket EFI when a carb is simply to install and tune, I'd extremely reliable and just plain works.
@@Tsizzle2 Great info Troy, I don't know if you even keep up with this after a year but have you found a way to better sheild the ECU? Are you seeing the Sniper 2 version with the same RFI problems? I gathered that was part of the upgrade.
If you ever find yourself using ANY Holley EFI product that leans out over time (or goes pig rich over time) the FIRST thing you do is check the tune. Almost every time I’ve seen this happen it’s because there is something wrong with a sensor somewhere. When I say check your tune I’m specifically talking about the closed loop corrections. From the factory Holley sets this at 50% and that’s great for helping you build your map when you first start tuning. But once you get your car running good there is no reason this should be more than 10% and I usually run around 5%. When you turn the closed loop corrections down (or even off for testing) then the air fuel will pretty much remain the same as it can only pull or add 0-10% fuel for correction instead of 50%.(obviously depending on where you set it)
Forty year mechanic here. It is very common to find the ground strap missing if someone has replaced the cap. It burns the module out very quickly. I hear exhaust leaks and cold engine piston knock. I recommend checking for vacuum leak.
I work on cars for a living and have installed two on these and spent hours and hours on the phone with Holley. And never got them running right holly refunded my money on both
Just stumbled on to your channel, nice work! EFI is really cool, but it seem very touchy... Even with clean installs. Add in sensors randomly checking out and it would be utterly maddening. I think the carbs still have a place. Especially on the old iron. The old iron, if it cranks, it can run... EFI if it's not 97% happy when it's booting... then its a bust. I'm in the middle of an engine swap in my 69 c10. Even in 2023 with all the LS options, EFI Options I chose a 540 Big Block Chevy with a carb. I know that is a dinosaur... but with modern heads, a little tuning knowledge... think it will get down the road... and be very reliable. There is something be said about the rigs that get you home.
I installed the Sniper Master Kit on my 462" Buick Stage 2 motor and have only had minor issues with the IAC and the handheld failed but Holley replaced for free. People expect HP gains over a well tuned carb but that just isn't the case. Drivability and tunability are the benefits of EFI. Running a computer controlled system with an ordinary distributor - especially one not even for the motor and you're asking for problems. Blaming it on the Sniper might make you feel better but sounds like you don't really understand what you're doing. No insult meant, just constructive criticism based upon comments in your video and looking at your underhood spaghetti
The spaghetti is from reinstalling this thing twice. First time I had it wired up decent. I work on LS engines and make my own harnesses. Thank God I didn't modify the Holley harness at all otherwise it could've voided my warranty. The thing is I used their entire ignition system and it still failed. So what do you mean using a distributor that isn't for this motor?
Add mine to the list. I thought a Holley Terminator would be a better more reliable setup and I was completely wrong. I'm switching back to a carburetor this weekend. It's sad that with today's technology, we trust carburetors over fuel injection...
I don't know if this is your problem or not but I think Holly recommends a open center carb spacer or a notched dual plane divider for the fuel injection to operate properly
carl you are correct the tuner shop I bought my EFI from asked what intake I was using and I told them a standard Edelbrock RPM carb intake they told me I needed an open spacer for best even fuel air mixture
But this guy said his problems happened after an hour or hour and a half. I don’t feel like that would be a spacer issue BUT I have zero experience with this EFI system
Did I get this right?? You changed back to the carburetor and got misfire because the distributor was for a V6? And thats the same distributor you had for the Holley Sniper. IF that is the case, no wonder the Sniper system got messed up...
Bro it's not just you those things are junk I've had 2 friends that have replaced them with carbs both were on big blocks Not sure if that has anything to do with it but a good holley carb has worked for years.
Smart decision ! Ive helped pull 2 of them . Talked them into Edelbrocks . The one guy , 427 camaro . 650 horse . Says its the best the car has ran in the 20 years hes had it ! Put a q jet on it like it came with ! I ben KILLIN holley's with a q jet since the 70s ! Itd be WAY happier with a Edelbrock or Q Jet !
YOU GUYS SAYING, I HAD TO DO THIS AND THAT TO GET THE HOLLEY JUNK SNIPER TO WORK. NEVER LIKED HOLLEY CARBS, FOR THE AMOUNT OF MONEY AND TIME YOU SPEND ON THIS JUNK EFI. IAM THINKING CHINNESS JUNK. FINE TUNE A CARB THAT WONT LEAVE YOU ON THE SIDE OF THE ROAD AND WHERE YOU HAVE ACCESS TO CARB AND DISTRIBUTOR PARTS. THEN YOU DONT HAVE TO CALL HOLLEY USELESS CUSTOMER SERVICE !
@@barnjob75 ive throwin around 30 holley's in the trash the last 40 years . Dial em in . Go play for the night . Next morning the dam thing wont start !
So, the thing your Holley EFI system does is find all the weak spots in your setup. Wiring, distributor, sparkplugs and so on. Put a Sniper on my '70 Chevelle. Yes in the beginning it was kind of a pain. My distributor sucked. My sparkplug wires needed replaced but I worked everything out. Linkage the whistling all of it's little "bugs". a year down the road my 502 is even more of a monster. I go to Hot August nights in Reno. No adjustments for elevation no cold starting issues. I've always had Holley Carbs on basically all my builds so I know how to tune one. I took my car and had it tuned with the laptop. yes it's supposed to tune it's self but I just saved myself anymore hassles and took it to a tuner. Big difference.
I am doing the same..the Holley sniper was nothing but problem after problem. after 2 years I got it run great and then went out to start car one day and no spark. No ECU trigger to CDI box. ECU failure. Garbage....I wish I never heard of it!
Oh, I have seen more of these systems returned and more people beating their head against the wall trying to make something that’s just not worth it work. You still have a wet intake. Sure, you cannot maintain a closed loop system with it, which, if you can make it run properly is an advantage. But if you’re going to go fuel injection, go fuel injection. Go to port injection. If you’re going to use a wet intake, stay with the carburetor. On the Dino carburetors make the same power as throttle body fuel injection. it’s just an ego thing for most people. I know more about Fuel injection and 99.9% of the people in the world and my hot rod has a carburetor. I do have gauges to show air fuel ratio, fuel pressure, ethanol, percentage, etc. I do also use an E distributor. Timing is the big thing that most everybody gets wrong. But if you go with a great carburetor company like AED and tell them exactly what you have, you’ll get a car radio probably never have to touch. And you won’t have 5000 wires to run, fuel lines to run, fuel pumps to install, and an idle air control system that drives everybody crazy. My son has had two different systems with a total of five kits, trying to get a throttle body system to work properly on his truck. He doesn’t listen to me. It’s a good thing he makes a lot of money. He did just buy a carburetor but he hasn’t put it on yet. And for those of you who don’t know, this is a speed density system, not a mass airflow system, which is what you really need in order to keep your sanity. With a massive flow sensor the computer knows what to do with Fuel. With the speed density system, the computer tries to figure out what you need, in each car, has a different fuel requirement, and every camshaft has a different fuel requirement. I hope you understand what I’m trying to say. and some of these companies have been bought and sold 15 times in the last 20 years and have lost most of their good people. I won’t mention any names, but it’s the way of the world. Do yourself a favor and get in touch with a good cover to company, like AED, and make your life simpler. I don’t know why everybody wants to go and put all his crap on an inch and it would run better without it. I’m just really frustrated for all the people out there that I’ve been sucked into this stuff. I can discuss it in more detail, but right now I’m just sick and tired of seeing people getting beat up by this terrible product. And by that I mean a wet intake system, not a port fuel system, I am not mentioning any names, nor will I. if you’re going to run Fuel injection, then run fuel injection.
@@JovaniDanteGriego I run an MSD. Even they have had some issues, but I’ve had good luck. But because of the miles I put on my truck I always have a ready to run distributor with me. That’s the problem with all of this stuff. If you break down, where are you going to get replacement parts. I drive my truck everywhere, and driving it to the track and not touching it it runs 11.5, without juice, on pump gas.
run just the sniper with HEI trust me on this the sniper unit has been running for 3 yrs no problems i recently swapped the unit to my r10 350 sbc and did hyperspark system also and had problems took it out put the HEI and runs perfect hyperspark i guess has alot of issues and should stay away unless it is tuned the right way
Beings you got the correct distributor with a new cap and I would put the sniper back on most likely. Once a Holley backfires it blows the power valve almost every time and will flood the manifold just by setting there. Never make adjustments while engine is cold always let it warm up.
New Holley carbs have a check valve that prevents the power valve from blowing out. But there are too many things people can screw up on a Holley. Wrong jets, wrong power valve, wrong accelerator pump cam, wrong gasket between the metering block and carb body, float levels, that's before you even touch the mixture screws. For someone who isn't familiar with a carb, get an Edlebrock, or quadrajet. They are more basic. If you want power, use a Holley and tune
Glad I just came across your channel. This is the first video I have watched and as I have just picked up a 76 GMC C35, I was instantly thinking of putting a sniper efi on it as soon as I could, I will have to go back and see what was going on with the kit you had. I like how you leave everything in with all your troubleshooting and not cut it out. I had the same type of issues with mine when i purchased it. Replaced distributor and it seemed it was only the plugs that were the issues as they were carbon fouled. As soon as those were replaced, it fires up instantly. I will definitely have to go back to the board and see what I should do for an EFI kit now as I live in AZ and can experience a 2000-4000 ft elevation difference just going from town to town.
@@JovaniDanteGriego which is the one that you purchased? I haven't seen much difference in the ones listed on the Holley website but I was going to call them directly when I go to order to make sure it will do what I want it to.
I am in the same boat you are I live in az too I have a custom q jet built by jet performance for the specifications of my truck I'll probably just stick with that and maybe try the carb cheater I don't know how Good The carb cheater will compensate for higher elevations or at least how high an elevation
Seems it always seem to be a hit or a miss. My friend has installed over a dozen aftermarket EFI systems (Holley Sniper, Dominator, FiTech, and FAST EFI) and never had issues. The most was one time the handheld on a FiTech bugged out but an ECU firmware update fixed that. Seems its 50/50 with these units overall from what I read and watch. Don't blame you for going back to carburetor if you had issues. Also is that rust in the throttle body? Hopefully the ECU didn't corrode and cause you to have issues.
A buddy has problems with his and I’ve had a Sniper new in the box for about a year. Do you think it’s heat? After digging around, it looks like the ECU being built into the body of the Sniper means it’s running as hot as the engine at times, which can’t be good for the electronics.
@@minusthemachineagain9342 we say it because it is true, and because we used to work on these cars before, and sometimes still do. Maintenance was easy. That's why we say it. Because it is the truth.
@@kidsteach938 go put front springs on a 54 chevy Bellaire, work on a 60’s model mustang. Go work on a 1950s autocar… I wouldn’t say they are any easier to work on. I can remove a front bumper Cover off a late model car in 10-15 minutes. To remove the bumper off my 76 camaro takes twice as long.
@@minusthemachineagain9342 "when you could see and work on the engine! when you could see and work on the engine!" Who said anything about bumpers? Go change an exhaust manifold or water pump...engine work, my brother...read and believe.
@@kidsteach938 I’ve been turning wrenches for 20 years… get some panel poppers and remove the engine covers and core support covers..takes a professional 2 minutes..covers are there because most customers do not want to see a engine anymore.
Somewhere within the brain in that throttle body unit, there is a semiconductor the desaturating out somewhere between an hour and 15 minutes and an hour and 45 minutes. And it is very consistent which means it should be able to be identified. Given the average temperature of a device that constantly has relatively fresh air running through it. This should not be occurring. Considering the last time I saw this and verified it for certain, was in 1975 there was a device on the last manufactured f111f model in the United States Air Force that caused an issue with the use of that aircraft. In that case it was only a minor component that was saturating out with the other components of that individual aircraft and when it was placed into another aircraft it worked fine.
thats a top of the line injection system.....works amazing for everyone else......maybe you got a bad one.....but have someone that knows them look at it
No silly. I was running the Holley dizzy with the Holley system. I remove all that and replaced it with the old hei stuff. I never used the hei with the holley
I ran battery to frame to frame to cab to cab to engine and had redundancy with 0 gauge wire. I make my own LS harnesses. I know the wiring looks a bit rough on this video but this is the third time going through this at this point
Just trying to help. Test for vacuum on the crankcase, compression test and check rocker arm movement. Infrared thermometer on the exhaust manifold is good for finding a weak or dead cylinder.
I've known a few people that concur with your Holley EFI issues. I've also known a few that seem to have had less or no issues with the FiTech EFI kits. Also have known MANY people including myself that have had many trouble free years using the Edelbrock 600 carbs.
I like the Holley carbs myself. But I figured since I'm more of an efi/LS guy the Holley sniper fits that bill. But I was wrong. I am interested in the new sniper 2 and id love to try one of the Terminator units
@JovaniDanteGriego I have a Terminator X on my SBF mercury cougar and it's been solid so far...I have put about 1200 miles on it with a couple of 2 hr drives in there. No issues. the hardest part is getting everything dialed in as far as hot/cold starts and idle points in the beginning.
When it does it pull the air cleaner off and see if the injectors are working. The passenger front injector may stop working. The pin terminal at the injector may have low pin tension. There isn’t much of a connector for them. I had the same issue and that’s what I found. Pull the cover with the two allens, tighten the pin terminals. you can use a high temp hot glue or epoxy to keep the pin terminals tight.
sucks that you have a bad experience. I've got one installed in my 66 C10 that I've taken on couple day trips and daily drive in the summer with zero issued.
Five years ago I put an MSD Atomic EFI on my 63 Impala big block and after almost 50 years of fooling around with cars, that was the absolute best bang for the buck I ever got for ANY hot rod parts I ever bought. Period. I had a Demon Carb, snortin and slobberin all over. That MSD Efi cured all the miserableness from that turd carburetor. Sorry you are having a bad experience.
You have to adjust your timing with the vacuum advance unhooked, just a heads up when adjusting timing you can't have vacuum going to your vacuum advanceb.
The Port u have the vacuum advance going to,is a vent You need a timed port for the diz.It should b under the front fuel bowl,on the base plate.Once its hooked up right,u will need to unhook it and plug the hole to Set timing
Yeah, I agree, he’s got other issues. No offense but he doesn’t know the proper names for a lot of common items either and I noticed some of those solder splice connectors are not done properly and the solder is not melted correctly. Also, doesn’t seem to understand how to use the timing light properly. But I guess we all gotta start somewhere and learn, I would just be kind of embarrassed to make a video showing it all. But then again, there’s a lot of people on the Internet that give bad information that other people are learning from so it is what it is.
@chrissuessle I run into issues with mines and it was some simple mistakes. I set up timing control on mine with the MSD distributor, and it work flawlessly no issues with timing control.
Why go holley carb if holley sniper is junk? Ive jave experience with holley carbs and in every case they burn way more fuel, less throttle response and tend to often leak gas and be out of adjustment compared to a qjet
Jovani Im so sorry your sniper system turned out be so troublesome, but it looks like that hyperfine ignition is also troublesome as well, so getting rid of both the sniper and hyperfire system was a good move but how about one better move to get you down the road? Years back I went to the track out in Palmdale, before they closed it, and brought with me 4, thats right, 4 different Holley carbs and tested all 4 at the track with 2 runs for each carb. At the end of the day, the 750 ebelbrock that I used to get there and back to the track actually turned in the best time, shortest 60foot times and highest MPH at the end of the run, so I sold off all my holleys and took a deep dive into the world of the AFB, as sold by edelbrock today, and never looked back. These carbs, once you dial in 5 psi, not 6 or anything higher than that, will once you jet it and set it you can forget it, and enjoy crisp take off, better mileage, reliability like a stone, and easy parts to get at any problem you might have. I would recommend a 600 cfm AFB for better tip in response and mileage besides you could probably buy a used one for cheap. Just try it you'll love it! Selling that 750 will make your truck that much more reliable, they always go out of tune, spill gas, get horrid mileage and are a pain to maintain! The AFB and an HEI ignition will so make your days go so much better! And thanks for all the videos you put out, you are a very handy guy and very personable on your vids!
I have both a mix of Edelbrock and Holley's on my rigs and I slightly prefer the Holley's, no real reason just always prefer a Holley double pumper but I have to say that the Edelbrock is so easy to dial in especially out of the box
But at the end of the video he showed he put the wrong distributor in when he did the holly EFI swap. I bet it was more installation errors than actual issues
Going by the looks of your install….I’m not surprised it hasn’t worked out. You need to take some pride and time with your install. No hating here….just saying… I’ve installed 13 so far with zero problems!
I have a 454 and have been thinking about going with the EFI sniper, but now you got me second guessing. In order to run the Sniper, do you have to use all the hyper spark stuff? Can I just run the EFI sniper as is? I was going to upgrade my carb to a 750 double pumper, but looking at price I was thinking spend the money and go with the sniper.
After watching this you said after about an hour of long driving it would go lean. I went back and rewatched the install. It's you fuel tank is the problem. You capped the vent line these tanks are not vented. Its an emissions deal. Started in 1971 chevrolet trucks. You are creating a vacuum overtime as you run it is lowering the fuel pressure hence turning it to run lean.
Interesting theory. This one makes sense however, I don't think this is the case as I've used these 87 tanks a few times and have run them the same way. Infact on this one I believe I used the factory style breather plug thing from the old tank which I'm assuming is a check valve. I'm not writing it off though
@@JovaniDanteGriego they dont have a check valve breather on these tanks. By federal guidelines they are not allowed to vent to the atmosphere. Which I stated started in 1971. They where vented through a charcoal filter. I've seen this happen before. These tanks work fine in Carburetors normally because losing a couple of pounds fuel pressure doesnt affect as much because carbs fuel is controlled by the float bowls. They have extra fuel built into the system to keep the bowls filled and cruising is not as taxing on a carb. Efi is more finicky and needs the fuel pressure to be a constant in order to regulate the fuel air ratio. This keeps it at a constant for the ecu to regulate it.
I'm definitely reccomending spending the extra to go MPFI with a terminator or the super sniper. As soon as I get enough to buy it I'll make a video on that
So let me get this straight you installed a sniper system that references the distributor for spark and it didn’t see plug one firing so it went into limp mode so you wouldn’t wash down your cylinders with raw gasoline and ruin your engine and then you find out that you hade a 6 cylinder distributor running with the carb and changed it out for the correct distributor that the sniper would work perfectly well with am I missing something here ? Well I guess it was the distributor cap all along you nailed it and now it works great .
Eh not exactly. This video has no real context without watching the previous ones. This is the 3rd or 4th time going over this system. I had the hyperspark system first and that proved to be unreliable. So this was an attempt to run it with a HEI
Btw, HEI's suck......buy an MSD ready to run....and be done with it, we get rid of HEI distributors as often as possible, MSD ready to run, and be done!!
If you own EFI or MSD you’re gonna walk. Have a virtually brand new Small block MSD distributor I just pulled if anyone wants one. The virtually new control box would only run 5 min at a time from the get go. Then one day it quit and smoke came out of the box. Customer walked home. Bought Chinese White box R2R distributor and installed. Two years later car runs like a champ! Holley says they’re going away from carbs entirely to focus on all that stuff that don’t work. They will be bankrupt by 2027. On my personal car I run a 750 DP and an HEI. Never walk. And my next carb will be a QF or Edelbrock DP. Too old and tired to mess with disposable consumer junk that guarantees a walk. And, so are most of my customers. That and we just Don’t like seeing our hot rods sitting by the side of the road. It’s embarrassing and humiliating. Then you gotta pray that Meth Towing doesn’t destroy it. And that’s just getting it home! So yeah. We avoid that by avoiding all EFI and MSD entirely. PS the old 80s analog MSDs are just peachy. Run em if you got em. But their new stuff belongs on a shelf or in a trash can. Period.
Not running air filter not helping none u obviously live or drive down a lot of dusty roads just by looking under the hood so I would say your not getting clean air/fuel supply into your engine
it doesn’t matter if it’s the highway snipers the fast fi fuel injection. They all have the same problems they work great for a short period of time but the electronics cannot handle the sustained under hood temperatures. They’re great for the weekend, warriors or these people with the shops, and all these fancy cars that get like, an hour of driving a month sure to get several years out of them. They’re just too problematic there’s a reason manufacturers put most computers inside the car.
There's many reasons why TBI was dead by 1996. If you really want to have fuel injection save your money and install an Edelbrock pro flo 4 (not a sponsor) multi port fuel injection set up. Best money I spent for my 496.
I would get the proflow also has it been pretty reliable for you, if you do get a TBI setup it probably be better to get one with a remote ECU there may be a reason why Holly just came out with the new version of the sniper
Hoping my experience isn’t the same as yours- but I am rewiring the whole car and also getting coil, dizzy and bought harness to remove extra wiring needs.
The only thing I can think is the fuel pump Holley gives you with these kits, they aint very good, and just like you said they tend to lose alot of flow when they get hot, like when you drive for long periods of time.
I'm with nothanks88, it aint just you, my shop removes EFI from many vehicles, as they (sniper, fitech, etc) just dont work rite.......we put a carb back on (a proper carb for the application) and the customer drives away happy........yep.....
I mean no disrespect at all, I am just ADD. I could not work in a shop with $#!t piled everywhere. The video was informative and entertaining but jesus... random junk everywhere would drive me nuts. I can't function in a place like this. Nothing but props to you guys that can get $#!t done in a place like this. One Sunday I would rent a dumpster and 90% of that garbage would be gone when everyone got to work Monday. Where is the starter off the 75 Malibu that was laying on the floor by the bathroom? I don't know... maybe aliens needed a starter that has been laying by the bathroom for 20 years. Those aliens are odd like that....
I realize it’s an old video and I’ve just stumbled upon it but that tip in problem is from your Excelerator pump. You need to adjust the pump to where it starts to squirt the moment the throttle blade starts to move, do that and you’ll be golden if you want to get further than that, put you a vacuum gauge on your carburetor and start adjusting, your four corner mixtures until you have maximum vacuum denser you will have a finely tuned carburetor
I am in the process of tearing out a FAST EFI system and replacing it with the factory system. These setups are hit and miss. Some swear by them and some swear at them! LOL!
If fuel injection is so great why isn't it used in drag racing!!! Carburetors tuned right is and always will be more reliable than any fuel injection ever will be!!!!!
The big block isn't the problem!!! You LS parakeets are something else and I've noticed most the parakeets don't know how to build a good small or big block. LS swaps are for people who don't know how to do anything else much else make something reliable 🤣🤣🤣
I’m not blaming you however, if it was installed properly, you wouldn’t have any issues. I don’t think that it’s as easy as they want you to believe. Hence the problems you were having.
I went back and looked thru several of your other videos after seeing the first minute of this one and from my experience installing north of 30 Holley sniper systems and repairing a boat load of sniper systems installed by other people/places I have no doubt that your wiring is causing you at least some of your problems if not the majority. Holley's instructions suck. They're not nearly detailed enough to get a system installed without problems. It is however the best entry level system on the market for sure and they work great if installed well. You can figure on spending about $2500-3000 just in parts to get one installed and running right.
1. The external fuel pumps/systems are garbage, I've had a ton of them fail, 3 in a row on 1 car last summer. They offer an upgraded external pump for an extra $100+. I won't install anything but an in tank return less fuel pump from Holley, Walbro or Aeromotive. Don't use aluminum fuel line either, it will crack and leak after a little while. Run lines outside the frame if your using new.
2. At least a 1/2" fiber spacer under the TB or a phenolic one work best for keeping heat off the ECU and the noise down from the IAC.
3. I can't stress enough how important the wiring and how it is routed is. The wiring needs to be kept separate from the vehicle wiring and as far away from the dizzy, plug wires, coil, alternator wiring as possible. Do not zip tie it together or to any other wires in the harness. I usually run down the back of the manifold under the dizzy and I use shielded wire covering from McMaster-Carr that's expensive to cover the wiring if I'm within 6" of anything ignition. You need to check where you get the key on source with a meter and make sure it not only retains 12v cranking but also that it drops to 0v immediately when keyed off. If it has .01v you'll have problems with the GFC file saving or strange drivability possibly. Having your wiring to the coil laying on top of the power wires across your firewall is a no-no in my book. If you ran your Sniper wiring thru the firewall pass thru next to the original truck wiring that's a no-no. Pull it out, drill a hole down behind the engine above the trans and run the holley wiring by itself thru the hole. Don't zip tie it to other wiring under your dash either. Keep it separate.
4. Solder, solder, solder all your connections and heat shrink them. The less splices the better. Don't crimp end terminals on to connect to anything.
5. I cut any excess wiring out and re-pin connectors, don't bundle it up and stuff it under the dash or zip tie it to other wiring.
6. The ECU in the TB is a poor idea. You can get RFI interference from the air cleaner housing being to close to the dizzy cap or plug wires. Always make sure you have a gasket on top the unit under the air cleaner housing. I build the air cleaner stud out of Delrin rod and use a plastic or fiber washer with plastic wing nut. I've seen a metal air cleaner stud act like a antenna causing RFI interference making the ECU miss data points.
7. I only install the systems with the complete Hyperspark ignition with it. Dizzy, CDI box, Coil, etc.. You need to have timing control to really get the benefits of EFI and to make it run correctly. Make sure to check and verify your timing and setup the inductive delay.
8. You NEED a laptop with the pro tuning software and knowledge of what you're doing or have it professionally tuned. Your wasting your time tuning with the handheld. Plug it in and use it for an AFR readout after you get it tuned with a laptop. If your not experienced at tuning or with EFI your going to fight this thing for awhile. It is not "Plug and Play" "Self tuning" easy as they say. Not even close.
9. Make sure you don't have exhaust leaks pre 02 sensor and I put it 6-10" from where the collectors come together. Check for vacuum leaks also.
10. I'm to tired to keep going, I'll try to get the rest put on here tomorrow sometime. One more thing, ALWAYS connect straight to the battery at the battery and very good grounds.
I agree with everything you said. I do however feel like my wiring wasn't terrible, it looks bad here but that's because I spent time the first time and had everything too close to other things. So I had to separate everything especially the white coil wire and pink power wire. Once I sperated that that fixed most of my issues. This issue however seemed to be either heat or something issue. Basically I could drive for around an hour and then the Holley would lean out to 20-30 afr. If I left it for another hour it would be fine
@@JovaniDanteGriego
I don't think I have installed a single system yet that I didn't have at least one problem or another with. Do you know how to take a data log and view it with data points? You can VERIFY by using the data logs if the wiring is the cause of your problem or not. If you take a data log, save it, get on your laptop and open it, zoom in on the log and then in the main window right click your mouse and select (mark data points) in the window that opens. This will show up on the timeline as little dots every time the ECU collects and sends it's data from the sensors. You want to zoom in close to see the spacing between the dots. It should be uniform from the start to the finish with even spacing between the dots. Most of the time I've had problems with them when looking at the data logs there will be random sections where there is 1",2",3" gaps between the dots or longer and that is the ECU not getting the data or sending bad signals because of RFI interference. If all the data points are uniform and spaced the same then your wiring is not the issue and you can prove it.
Awesome reply, you obviously know your stuff brother, thanks so much
Who wants to go through all this crap to make TB EFI work? I put a new engine in my car and tuned the carb in about an hour after many test runs and reading plugs. It runs like a scalded dog. Why does anyone want an aftermarket EFI when a carb is simply to install and tune, I'd extremely reliable and just plain works.
@@Tsizzle2 Great info Troy, I don't know if you even keep up with this after a year but have you found a way to better sheild the ECU? Are you seeing the Sniper 2 version with the same RFI problems? I gathered that was part of the upgrade.
If you ever find yourself using ANY Holley EFI product that leans out over time (or goes pig rich over time) the FIRST thing you do is check the tune. Almost every time I’ve seen this happen it’s because there is something wrong with a sensor somewhere. When I say check your tune I’m specifically talking about the closed loop corrections. From the factory Holley sets this at 50% and that’s great for helping you build your map when you first start tuning. But once you get your car running good there is no reason this should be more than 10% and I usually run around 5%. When you turn the closed loop corrections down (or even off for testing) then the air fuel will pretty much remain the same as it can only pull or add 0-10% fuel for correction instead of 50%.(obviously depending on where you set it)
or just put a carburetor on it and be done.
Forty year mechanic here. It is very common to find the ground strap missing if someone has replaced the cap. It burns the module out very quickly. I hear exhaust leaks and cold engine piston knock. I recommend checking for vacuum leak.
That sound in this instance was the Exhaust cover leaking on this intake. I resealed that after
I work on cars for a living and have installed two on these and spent hours and hours on the phone with Holley. And never got them running right holly refunded my money on both
Just stumbled on to your channel, nice work! EFI is really cool, but it seem very touchy... Even with clean installs. Add in sensors randomly checking out and it would be utterly maddening.
I think the carbs still have a place. Especially on the old iron. The old iron, if it cranks, it can run... EFI if it's not 97% happy when it's booting... then its a bust.
I'm in the middle of an engine swap in my 69 c10. Even in 2023 with all the LS options, EFI Options I chose a 540 Big Block Chevy with a carb. I know that is a dinosaur... but with modern heads, a little tuning knowledge... think it will get down the road... and be very reliable. There is something be said about the rigs that get you home.
I installed the Sniper Master Kit on my 462" Buick Stage 2 motor and have only had minor issues with the IAC and the handheld failed but Holley replaced for free. People expect HP gains over a well tuned carb but that just isn't the case. Drivability and tunability are the benefits of EFI. Running a computer controlled system with an ordinary distributor - especially one not even for the motor and you're asking for problems. Blaming it on the Sniper might make you feel better but sounds like you don't really understand what you're doing. No insult meant, just constructive criticism based upon comments in your video and looking at your underhood spaghetti
The spaghetti is from reinstalling this thing twice. First time I had it wired up decent. I work on LS engines and make my own harnesses. Thank God I didn't modify the Holley harness at all otherwise it could've voided my warranty. The thing is I used their entire ignition system and it still failed. So what do you mean using a distributor that isn't for this motor?
CAN THE EFI, KEEP THE CARB !
I’ve been hearing a lot of people replacing the efi/sniper with carburetors.
I wanted it to work out. It was just always a worry
Add mine to the list. I thought a Holley Terminator would be a better more reliable setup and I was completely wrong. I'm switching back to a carburetor this weekend. It's sad that with today's technology, we trust carburetors over fuel injection...
I don't know if this is your problem or not but I think Holly recommends a open center carb spacer or a notched dual plane divider for the fuel injection to operate properly
Single plain intake or spacer
carl you are correct the tuner shop I bought my EFI from asked what intake I was using and I told them a standard Edelbrock RPM carb intake they told me I needed an open spacer for best even fuel air mixture
But this guy said his problems happened after an hour or hour and a half. I don’t feel like that would be a spacer issue BUT I have zero experience with this EFI system
The exhaust leaks create significant issues with the Sniper system.
The ONLY reason to go with aftermarket EFI is if you want EFI to become your new hobby.
It ain't just you.....
Use a wiband AFR in the truck it will use the O2 port in the exhaust and its a great help in tuning the carb
I’m sticking with my QuadraJet and points👌🏻
Dude you did a great service here. Thanks.
Thanks!
Did I get this right?? You changed back to the carburetor and got misfire because the distributor was for a V6? And thats the same distributor you had for the Holley Sniper. IF that is the case, no wonder the Sniper system got messed up...
Agree
Bro it's not just you those things are junk I've had 2 friends that have replaced them with carbs both were on big blocks Not sure if that has anything to do with it but a good holley carb has worked for years.
Smart decision ! Ive helped pull 2 of them . Talked them into Edelbrocks . The one guy , 427 camaro . 650 horse . Says its the best the car has ran in the 20 years hes had it ! Put a q jet on it like it came with ! I ben KILLIN holley's with a q jet since the 70s ! Itd be WAY happier with a Edelbrock or Q Jet !
YOU GUYS SAYING, I HAD TO DO THIS AND THAT TO GET THE HOLLEY JUNK SNIPER TO WORK. NEVER LIKED HOLLEY CARBS, FOR THE AMOUNT OF MONEY AND TIME YOU SPEND ON THIS JUNK EFI. IAM THINKING CHINNESS JUNK. FINE TUNE A CARB THAT WONT LEAVE YOU ON THE SIDE OF THE ROAD AND WHERE YOU HAVE ACCESS TO CARB AND DISTRIBUTOR PARTS. THEN YOU DONT HAVE TO CALL HOLLEY USELESS CUSTOMER SERVICE !
@@barnjob75 ive throwin around 30 holley's in the trash the last 40 years . Dial em in . Go play for the night . Next morning the dam thing wont start !
So, the thing your Holley EFI system does is find all the weak spots in your setup. Wiring, distributor, sparkplugs and so on. Put a Sniper on my '70 Chevelle. Yes in the beginning it was kind of a pain. My distributor sucked. My sparkplug wires needed replaced but I worked everything out. Linkage the whistling all of it's little "bugs". a year down the road my 502 is even more of a monster. I go to Hot August nights in Reno. No adjustments for elevation no cold starting issues. I've always had Holley Carbs on basically all my builds so I know how to tune one. I took my car and had it tuned with the laptop. yes it's supposed to tune it's self but I just saved myself anymore hassles and took it to a tuner. Big difference.
So even the new unit was unreliable? Seems like the truck had a lot of issues other than the holley.
It worked fine for about 6 months
I am doing the same..the Holley sniper was nothing but problem after problem. after 2 years I got it run great and then went out to start car one day and no spark. No ECU trigger to CDI box. ECU failure. Garbage....I wish I never heard of it!
Oh, I have seen more of these systems returned and more people beating their head against the wall trying to make something that’s just not worth it work. You still have a wet intake. Sure, you cannot maintain a closed loop system with it, which, if you can make it run properly is an advantage. But if you’re going to go fuel injection, go fuel injection. Go to port injection. If you’re going to use a wet intake, stay with the carburetor. On the Dino carburetors make the same power as throttle body fuel injection. it’s just an ego thing for most people. I know more about Fuel injection and 99.9% of the people in the world and my hot rod has a carburetor. I do have gauges to show air fuel ratio, fuel pressure, ethanol, percentage, etc. I do also use an E distributor. Timing is the big thing that most everybody gets wrong. But if you go with a great carburetor company like AED and tell them exactly what you have, you’ll get a car radio probably never have to touch. And you won’t have 5000 wires to run, fuel lines to run, fuel pumps to install, and an idle air control system that drives everybody crazy. My son has had two different systems with a total of five kits, trying to get a throttle body system to work properly on his truck. He doesn’t listen to me. It’s a good thing he makes a lot of money. He did just buy a carburetor but he hasn’t put it on yet. And for those of you who don’t know, this is a speed density system, not a mass airflow system, which is what you really need in order to keep your sanity. With a massive flow sensor the computer knows what to do with Fuel. With the speed density system, the computer tries to figure out what you need, in each car, has a different fuel requirement, and every camshaft has a different fuel requirement. I hope you understand what I’m trying to say. and some of these companies have been bought and sold 15 times in the last 20 years and have lost most of their good people. I won’t mention any names, but it’s the way of the world. Do yourself a favor and get in touch with a good cover to company, like AED, and make your life simpler. I don’t know why everybody wants to go and put all his crap on an inch and it would run better without it. I’m just really frustrated for all the people out there that I’ve been sucked into this stuff. I can discuss it in more detail, but right now I’m just sick and tired of seeing people getting beat up by this terrible product. And by that I mean a wet intake system, not a port fuel system, I am not mentioning any names, nor will I. if you’re going to run Fuel injection, then run fuel injection.
Thanks for this. What kind of e distributor do you run?
@@JovaniDanteGriego
I run an MSD. Even they have had some issues, but I’ve had good luck. But because of the miles I put on my truck I always have a ready to run distributor with me. That’s the problem with all of this stuff. If you break down, where are you going to get replacement parts. I drive my truck everywhere, and driving it to the track and not touching it it runs 11.5, without juice, on pump gas.
run just the sniper with HEI trust me on this the sniper unit has been running for 3 yrs no problems i recently swapped the unit to my r10 350 sbc and did hyperspark system also and had problems took it out put the HEI and runs perfect hyperspark i guess has alot of issues and should stay away unless it is tuned the right way
It's funny, he should have changed the distributor before giving up on the EFI
Beings you got the correct distributor with a new cap and I would put the sniper back on most likely. Once a Holley backfires it blows the power valve almost every time and will flood the manifold just by setting there. Never make adjustments while engine is cold always let it warm up.
New Holley carbs have a check valve that prevents the power valve from blowing out.
But there are too many things people can screw up on a Holley. Wrong jets, wrong power valve, wrong accelerator pump cam, wrong gasket between the metering block and carb body, float levels, that's before you even touch the mixture screws.
For someone who isn't familiar with a carb, get an Edlebrock, or quadrajet. They are more basic.
If you want power, use a Holley and tune
Glad I just came across your channel. This is the first video I have watched and as I have just picked up a 76 GMC C35, I was instantly thinking of putting a sniper efi on it as soon as I could, I will have to go back and see what was going on with the kit you had. I like how you leave everything in with all your troubleshooting and not cut it out. I had the same type of issues with mine when i purchased it. Replaced distributor and it seemed it was only the plugs that were the issues as they were carbon fouled. As soon as those were replaced, it fires up instantly. I will definitely have to go back to the board and see what I should do for an EFI kit now as I live in AZ and can experience a 2000-4000 ft elevation difference just going from town to town.
If looking at sniper go with the higher end units with the standalone ecus
@@JovaniDanteGriego which is the one that you purchased? I haven't seen much difference in the ones listed on the Holley website but I was going to call them directly when I go to order to make sure it will do what I want it to.
@@TheJustinCase101 mine was the sniper EFI. I think the sniper x stealth is the one with a terminator
I am in the same boat you are I live in az too I have a custom q jet built by jet performance for the specifications of my truck I'll probably just stick with that and maybe try the carb cheater I don't know how Good The carb cheater will compensate for higher elevations or at least how high an elevation
Plug into labtop and take a look at fuel table u will save u time, not like this channel
Seems it always seem to be a hit or a miss. My friend has installed over a dozen aftermarket EFI systems (Holley Sniper, Dominator, FiTech, and FAST EFI) and never had issues. The most was one time the handheld on a FiTech bugged out but an ECU firmware update fixed that. Seems its 50/50 with these units overall from what I read and watch. Don't blame you for going back to carburetor if you had issues. Also is that rust in the throttle body? Hopefully the ECU didn't corrode and cause you to have issues.
A buddy has problems with his and I’ve had a Sniper new in the box for about a year. Do you think it’s heat? After digging around, it looks like the ECU being built into the body of the Sniper means it’s running as hot as the engine at times, which can’t be good for the electronics.
I feel that could be one of the issues as well
Looking at the engine space around that big block in the square body...man, the good old days when you could see and work on the engine!
Why do people always say this line? Like it’s a script?
@@minusthemachineagain9342 we say it because it is true, and because we used to work on these cars before, and sometimes still do. Maintenance was easy. That's why we say it. Because it is the truth.
@@kidsteach938 go put front springs on a 54 chevy Bellaire, work on a 60’s model mustang. Go work on a 1950s autocar…
I wouldn’t say they are any easier to work on. I can remove a front bumper
Cover off a late model car in 10-15 minutes. To remove the bumper off my 76 camaro takes twice as long.
@@minusthemachineagain9342 "when you could see and work on the engine! when you could see and work on the engine!" Who said anything about bumpers? Go change an exhaust manifold or water pump...engine work, my brother...read and believe.
@@kidsteach938 I’ve been turning wrenches for 20 years… get some panel poppers and remove the engine covers and core support covers..takes a professional 2 minutes..covers are there because most customers do not want to see a engine anymore.
Somewhere within the brain in that throttle body unit, there is a semiconductor the desaturating out somewhere between an hour and 15 minutes and an hour and 45 minutes. And it is very consistent which means it should be able to be identified. Given the average temperature of a device that constantly has relatively fresh air running through it. This should not be occurring. Considering the last time I saw this and verified it for certain, was in 1975 there was a device on the last manufactured f111f model in the United States Air Force that caused an issue with the use of that aircraft. In that case it was only a minor component that was saturating out with the other components of that individual aircraft and when it was placed into another aircraft it worked fine.
I would buy that Sniper system from you, if you still have it.
Me too, installed errorrrrrrs are always the issue
thats a top of the line injection system.....works amazing for everyone else......maybe you got a bad one.....but have someone that knows them look at it
No silly. I was running the Holley dizzy with the Holley system. I remove all that and replaced it with the old hei stuff. I never used the hei with the holley
I’m looking at your wiring and I see some rust on the firewall. Did also upgrade your cab to frame grounds too or just the engine/chassis grounds?
I ran battery to frame to frame to cab to cab to engine and had redundancy with 0 gauge wire. I make my own LS harnesses. I know the wiring looks a bit rough on this video but this is the third time going through this at this point
Just trying to help. Test for vacuum on the crankcase, compression test and check rocker arm movement. Infrared thermometer on the exhaust manifold is good for finding a weak or dead cylinder.
It could've been a vacuum leak. Unlikely though because when I went back to carb I reused everything and it was fine.
I've known a few people that concur with your Holley EFI issues. I've also known a few that seem to have had less or no issues with the FiTech EFI kits. Also have known MANY people including myself that have had many trouble free years using the Edelbrock 600 carbs.
I like the Holley carbs myself. But I figured since I'm more of an efi/LS guy the Holley sniper fits that bill. But I was wrong. I am interested in the new sniper 2 and id love to try one of the Terminator units
@JovaniDanteGriego I have a Terminator X on my SBF mercury cougar and it's been solid so far...I have put about 1200 miles on it with a couple of 2 hr drives in there. No issues. the hardest part is getting everything dialed in as far as hot/cold starts and idle points in the beginning.
When it does it pull the air cleaner off and see if the injectors are working. The passenger front injector may stop working. The pin terminal at the injector may have low pin tension. There isn’t much of a connector for them. I had the same issue and that’s what I found. Pull the cover with the two allens, tighten the pin terminals. you can use a high temp hot glue or epoxy to keep the pin terminals tight.
sucks that you have a bad experience. I've got one installed in my 66 C10 that I've taken on couple day trips and daily drive in the summer with zero issued.
Nice! I'm glad it's working for you!
Five years ago I put an MSD Atomic EFI on my 63 Impala big block and after almost 50 years of fooling around with cars, that was the absolute best bang for the buck I ever got for ANY hot rod parts I ever bought. Period.
I had a Demon Carb, snortin and slobberin all over. That MSD Efi cured all the miserableness from that turd carburetor. Sorry you are having a bad experience.
So put an 8cyl distributor in it and the holley efi probability fine.
You have to adjust your timing with the vacuum advance unhooked, just a heads up when adjusting timing you can't have vacuum going to your vacuum advanceb.
The Port u have the vacuum advance going to,is a vent You need a timed port for the diz.It should b under the front fuel bowl,on the base plate.Once its hooked up right,u will need to unhook it and plug the hole to Set timing
I've been watching this guy and I believe he have more than just that holley efi issues. Wiring and timing has alot to do with his issue
Yeah, I agree, he’s got other issues. No offense but he doesn’t know the proper names for a lot of common items either and I noticed some of those solder splice connectors are not done properly and the solder is not melted correctly. Also, doesn’t seem to understand how to use the timing light properly. But I guess we all gotta start somewhere and learn, I would just be kind of embarrassed to make a video showing it all. But then again, there’s a lot of people on the Internet that give bad information that other people are learning from so it is what it is.
@chrissuessle I run into issues with mines and it was some simple mistakes. I set up timing control on mine with the MSD distributor, and it work flawlessly no issues with timing control.
Ground strap from the block “where the negative from the battery connects” up to a carb stud solved my issues!
We really shouldn't be needing to ground our carb studs lol
Hey gen z'rs and millenials, carbs aren't scary and are actually much easier to sort out and tune then these aftermarket efi kits are. smh
Why go holley carb if holley sniper is junk? Ive jave experience with holley carbs and in every case they burn way more fuel, less throttle response and tend to often leak gas and be out of adjustment compared to a qjet
Jovani Im so sorry your sniper system turned out be so troublesome, but it looks like that hyperfine ignition is also troublesome as well, so getting rid of both the sniper and hyperfire system was a good move but how about one better move to get you down the road? Years back I went to the track out in Palmdale, before they closed it, and brought with me 4, thats right, 4 different Holley carbs and tested all 4 at the track with 2 runs for each carb. At the end of the day, the 750 ebelbrock that I used to get there and back to the track actually turned in the best time, shortest 60foot times and highest MPH at the end of the run, so I sold off all my holleys and took a deep dive into the world of the AFB, as sold by edelbrock today, and never looked back. These carbs, once you dial in 5 psi, not 6 or anything higher than that, will once you jet it and set it you can forget it, and enjoy crisp take off, better mileage, reliability like a stone, and easy parts to get at any problem you might have. I would recommend a 600 cfm AFB for better tip in response and mileage besides you could probably buy a used one for cheap. Just try it you'll love it! Selling that 750 will make your truck that much more reliable, they always go out of tune, spill gas, get horrid mileage and are a pain to maintain! The AFB and an HEI ignition will so make your days go so much better! And thanks for all the videos you put out, you are a very handy guy and very personable on your vids!
I have both a mix of Edelbrock and Holley's on my rigs and I slightly prefer the Holley's, no real reason just always prefer a Holley double pumper but I have to say that the Edelbrock is so easy to dial in especially out of the box
I lost interest
And I remember I had a 68 Firebird I wish I kept that car Rochester carburetor it always ran never gave me problems I wish the best for you
I've been seeing a lot of videos like this lately. I think I will stick to a carburetor
A CARB WILL GET YOU HOME !
But at the end of the video he showed he put the wrong distributor in when he did the holly EFI swap. I bet it was more installation errors than actual issues
Going by the looks of your install….I’m not surprised it hasn’t worked out. You need to take some pride and time with your install. No hating here….just saying… I’ve installed 13 so far with zero problems!
I have a 454 and have been thinking about going with the EFI sniper, but now you got me second guessing. In order to run the Sniper, do you have to use all the hyper spark stuff? Can I just run the EFI sniper as is? I was going to upgrade my carb to a 750 double pumper, but looking at price I was thinking spend the money and go with the sniper.
You don't need the hyper spark you can run just the sniper
It’s all junk……it’s not a matter of if it’s going to break down….it’s when
After watching this you said after about an hour of long driving it would go lean. I went back and rewatched the install. It's you fuel tank is the problem. You capped the vent line these tanks are not vented. Its an emissions deal. Started in 1971 chevrolet trucks. You are creating a vacuum overtime as you run it is lowering the fuel pressure hence turning it to run lean.
Interesting theory. This one makes sense however, I don't think this is the case as I've used these 87 tanks a few times and have run them the same way. Infact on this one I believe I used the factory style breather plug thing from the old tank which I'm assuming is a check valve. I'm not writing it off though
@@JovaniDanteGriego they dont have a check valve breather on these tanks. By federal guidelines they are not allowed to vent to the atmosphere. Which I stated started in 1971. They where vented through a charcoal filter. I've seen this happen before. These tanks work fine in Carburetors normally because losing a couple of pounds fuel pressure doesnt affect as much because carbs fuel is controlled by the float bowls. They have extra fuel built into the system to keep the bowls filled and cruising is not as taxing on a carb. Efi is more finicky and needs the fuel pressure to be a constant in order to regulate the fuel air ratio. This keeps it at a constant for the ecu to regulate it.
@@JacobLAChristenson like I said, it makes sense. I guess if I still had the system I could've checked by putting a vented gas cap.
I have been seeing more videos of people removing holly sniper setups due to poor reliability. Think ill wait a while before i buy one
So you cured your Holley issues at the same time! Id put the Sniper back on after cleaning my fuel systen correctly.
I've already sold the sniper. I still got a Holley it's just a non electronic one 😂
Nice truck and I love the name lol 😂
If you want to "pay it forward" - I have a 351 ford here I could put it on! Send it this way!
Same with the fitech. I wasted money on that setup
Man I was hoping to see it work out… definitely rethinking EFI after watching your struggles
I'm definitely reccomending spending the extra to go MPFI with a terminator or the super sniper. As soon as I get enough to buy it I'll make a video on that
@@JovaniDanteGriego I was actually thinking the super sniper for a power adder. You think that’s a better choice?
super sniper is the exact same ECU. term x stealth would be the go to. or the new sniper 2 @@JovaniDanteGriego
I have two hot rods, both with sniper systems. They both work flawlessly. Just sayin…..
So let me get this straight you installed a sniper system that references the distributor for spark and it didn’t see plug one firing so it went into limp mode so you wouldn’t wash down your cylinders with raw gasoline and ruin your engine and then you find out that you hade a 6 cylinder distributor running with the carb and changed it out for the correct distributor that the sniper would work perfectly well with am I missing something here ? Well I guess it was the distributor cap all along you nailed it and now it works great .
Eh not exactly. This video has no real context without watching the previous ones. This is the 3rd or 4th time going over this system. I had the hyperspark system first and that proved to be unreliable. So this was an attempt to run it with a HEI
That's heart breaking 💔.
Accelerator pump is working right.
Btw, HEI's suck......buy an MSD ready to run....and be done with it, we get rid of HEI distributors as often as possible, MSD ready to run, and be done!!
If you own EFI or MSD you’re gonna walk. Have a virtually brand new Small block MSD distributor I just pulled if anyone wants one. The virtually new control box would only run 5 min at a time from the get go. Then one day it quit and smoke came out of the box. Customer walked home. Bought Chinese White box R2R distributor and installed. Two years later car runs like a champ! Holley says they’re going away from carbs entirely to focus on all that stuff that don’t work. They will be bankrupt by 2027. On my personal car I run a 750 DP and an HEI. Never walk. And my next carb will be a QF or Edelbrock DP. Too old and tired to mess with disposable consumer junk that guarantees a walk. And, so are most of my customers. That and we just
Don’t like seeing our hot rods sitting by the side of the road. It’s embarrassing and humiliating. Then you gotta pray that Meth Towing doesn’t destroy it. And that’s just getting it home! So yeah. We avoid that by avoiding all EFI and MSD entirely. PS the old 80s analog MSDs are just peachy. Run em if you got em. But their new stuff belongs on a shelf or in a trash can. Period.
Friend had same issue, 6 pins on a v8, took us longer to figure it out tho
You might want to pick up ac Delco ignition control module and throw it in the glovebox so you have it...
Not running air filter not helping none u obviously live or drive down a lot of dusty roads just by looking under the hood so I would say your not getting clean air/fuel supply into your engine
it doesn’t matter if it’s the highway snipers the fast fi fuel injection. They all have the same problems they work great for a short period of time but the electronics cannot handle the sustained under hood temperatures. They’re great for the weekend, warriors or these people with the shops, and all these fancy cars that get like, an hour of driving a month sure to get several years out of them. They’re just too problematic there’s a reason manufacturers put most computers inside the car.
There's many reasons why TBI was dead by 1996. If you really want to have fuel injection save your money and install an Edelbrock pro flo 4 (not a sponsor) multi port fuel injection set up. Best money I spent for my 496.
I would get the proflow also has it been pretty reliable for you, if you do get a TBI setup it probably be better to get one with a remote ECU there may be a reason why Holly just came out with the new version of the sniper
Not to many things thats gonna cause backfires 😂
Hoping my experience isn’t the same as yours- but I am rewiring the whole car and also getting coil, dizzy and bought harness to remove extra wiring needs.
Hope it works out for you man!
Might try putting your vacuum advance to manifold pressure
Been seeing a few of these videos.Thanks for your awareness.
The only thing I can think is the fuel pump Holley gives you with these kits, they aint very good, and just like you said they tend to lose alot of flow when they get hot, like when you drive for long periods of time.
I don't use the Holley external crap. This was a 87 v10 tank with internal pump.
wow had the same problem with Fi Tech. Carb is where I am hedding
Cheers
Hey brother what kind of Holley carburetor are you running?
Holley 650 double pumper
@@JovaniDanteGriego thanks bud.
What happened to the ls swapped squarebody you did before?
I sold it. Now Motor trend owns it. You can see it on the show "runs good" on motortrend+
Have you ever tried an Edelbrocrk EFI ???
No sir.
I'm with nothanks88, it aint just you, my shop removes EFI from many vehicles, as they (sniper, fitech, etc) just dont work rite.......we put a carb back on (a proper carb for the application) and the customer drives away happy........yep.....
I mean no disrespect at all, I am just ADD. I could not work in a shop with $#!t piled everywhere. The video was informative and entertaining but jesus... random junk everywhere would drive me nuts. I can't function in a place like this. Nothing but props to you guys that can get $#!t done in a place like this. One Sunday I would rent a dumpster and 90% of that garbage would be gone when everyone got to work Monday. Where is the starter off the 75 Malibu that was laying on the floor by the bathroom? I don't know... maybe aliens needed a starter that has been laying by the bathroom for 20 years. Those aliens are odd like that....
GET OVER IT MISTER CLEAN !
Looks like Ray Charles need the wiring.
I realize it’s an old video and I’ve just stumbled upon it but that tip in problem is from your Excelerator pump. You need to adjust the pump to where it starts to squirt the moment the throttle blade starts to move, do that and you’ll be golden if you want to get further than that, put you a vacuum gauge on your carburetor and start adjusting, your four corner mixtures until you have maximum vacuum denser you will have a finely tuned carburetor
Thanks! Yea I figured out all the carb issues since then
Don’t feel bad,,,,now i know what a reluctor is…….🤪
Your thermistor shouldnt be used to ground fans more to activate a relay to provide path to ground so 30 something amps dont go thru thermistor
I don't believe I said or did that? Ive always wired the thermistor as the trigger wire for a relay
Some guys just need to hire a mechanic
the edelbrock pro-flow 4 is the best system now days
It took me three times getting replacement ones
Before it kind of works😢
I am in the process of tearing out a FAST EFI system and replacing it with the factory system. These setups are hit and miss. Some swear by them and some swear at them! LOL!
For that price you aren’t that far from a 5.3 swap with factory efi.
That's what I've been saying
maybe it was leaning out because you had that 1in spacer in the intake.
That's recommended to be there
I'm here for "knowledge"!!!!
Cheap boy...El cheapo
What's the cheapest LS build
For rally and drift build
4.8 (4.great) / 4l80 with a 78mm single turbo on a Holley terminator. Go check out @sloppymechanics for some more stuff like that
Sounds like a bad distributor module.
If fuel injection is so great why isn't it used in drag racing!!! Carburetors tuned right is and always will be more reliable than any fuel injection ever will be!!!!!
Wanna sell me the setup?
Carb all the way for me, old cars were not built for EFI
Carbs still work well.
you should contact holley and let them know. maybe your sniper efi carb was bad out the box.
Go back and watch the last videos on this this was the second unit
Tuned carb by far better
until your climbing a steep hill
Carbs don't have wires.
Good observation
Cool now you can take the $1800 you saved and buy a months worth of carbureted big block fuel with it. 😆
Carbs for the win!
Why don’t you solve the problem by doing a LS swap
Trying to keep the big block
The big block isn't the problem!!! You LS parakeets are something else and I've noticed most the parakeets don't know how to build a good small or big block. LS swaps are for people who don't know how to do anything else much else make something reliable 🤣🤣🤣
Just needed a good tune
That's what all the Holley guys always say 🤣
I’m not blaming you however, if it was installed properly, you wouldn’t have any issues. I don’t think that it’s as easy as they want you to believe. Hence the problems you were having.
Holly Snipers are junk, there, I am brave enough to say it. Many of you have no back bone to say it !