You have created a spindle-moulder there. One of the more hazardous machines in any cabinet or joinery workshop. Prudent to take the extra precautions. I like the simple wing construction! 👍🏻
Ian, thanks for another great video. This was nicely edited: I enjoyed watching your father knock out those spars: It reminded how much I enjoyed working with my father on home project throughout my adult life.
Hey Ian, this is Alan, I met your friend Steven a while back at hooks. I really enjoy your videos! One thing I wanted to mention from this video I saw, you all talked about making an aluminum skin leading edge. I have a wooden experimental plane with an aluminum leading edge (plans called for wood or aluminum) but when it gets hot out in the sun that aluminum expands and warps. It doesn’t effect the way if flys but isn’t the prettiest thing to look at and my friend who built it says he wished he had used a wooden leading edge. The warps go away when it cools down. Food for thought, y’all keep up the great work!!!
One more thing I will add, I think one major thing about my airplane and the warping is the color of paint. The leading edges of my airplane are painted dark blue, while the rest of the wing is white. The dark blue get extremely warm, while the white... not so much. The combination between the dark paint and the aluminum is probably not the best. So if you do go forward with an aluminum leading edge I recommend just painting it a very light color. Can’t wait for the next update!
Looking super good! Wishing I had the time to make as much progress on my airplane. I have to say the wing rib modifications look extremely nice I would personally probably trust the t88 without fiberglass tape. If t88 fails on my airplane I will fly as good as a rock. My ribs are quarter-inch sticks with gussets
Hi Ian, I’m really enjoying watching the process your going through; it’s really interesting and instructive. Question: Would it have been less work to build a new wing from scratch rather than modifying the existing wing? I’d be interested in your thoughts on that. Thanks, Eric
I had that discussion with my father as well. He’s fairly convinced it is less work to modify, I’m less convinced. It is definitely a lot cheaper this way so I’m willing to go with it.
Just a range of little observations after stumbling on this... I'm aware that just building new (and probably better designed ie; all metal) wings would likely be quicker and easier, a simple single spar/single strut wing would need a work around to pick up on the original wing attach points. You may have picked up that I'm not a fan of the basic aluminium tube, ultralight wing structure, although it's easy enough to make, but it does come with a few problems that people often miss. The primary one is the bending and flexing of the tubes, and how that effects the various parts of the structure, namely the stringer that runs along the top of the ribs to hold the leading edge sheet. Very early Avids (and following clones there of) understood the flex problem, and used multiple nose riblets to try and maintain a good section to various degrees of success. When they then wanted to create a better shape, thin plywood or laid up fibreglass sheet was glued to the ribs as this material could take the compressive loads created by the wing flex. Then people started using thin aluminium sheet which would sometimes buckle from the flex, or they would use thick enough sheet that didn't seem to buckle, but this now transfers the movement to the ends (inboard and outboard) of the wing and (often un-noticed) cracking the ribs at the top stringer, or shearing the glue/rivets at the leading edge tube to sheet joint out near the tip. this is usually hidden by the fabric covering which usually only comes off after a ground loop or similar, and said delaminations/shears/cracks are usually regarded as part of the impact damage. On a different note, when the lower rib parts were made and the long skinny lightening holes where cut out, in reality those cutouts could have gone right to the join line as the lower part of the original rib would have had sufficient support, and the glue used would easily hold the lower rib by the remaining little 'stand-offs'. Also, one sixteenth (1/16th or 0.063") alloy for the tank is overkill, 0.032~0.040" would be plenty, and if you fabricated it sealing and riveting, you could probably make it from 0.025", just have all the join flanges folded on the outside, just have a look at any Piper Cherokee, or many of the Cessna wing tanks. Maximum volume without being buried inside the wing.
If you choose a well designed, optimum airfoil remind that actual contour between the wide standing ribs is different. The upper side is fatter between the ribs, if airload pulls the ceconite up, to outside.
Aluminum leading edge is a no go due to the expansion rate of aluminum over wood. Something is going to get lose over time. You also need to get a certified aircraft welder to do the welding,
Thanks for showing your work process in building your own airplane and making aviation improvements in general! This may be a dumb question, but with your experience in woodworking and setting the wing spars, wouldn't it have been easier / faster, and maybe even safer, to just make new wing ribs and have even more consistency in the shape? My band saw does not allow me to make a consistent shape between any two pieces of wood. Maybe it's operator error. Thanks again for the great vid.
It’s an open question if it would have been easier to make a new wing rather than modify the old wing but my reason for doing so would have been design flexibility and potential weight savings, not accuracy. Our accuracy on this has been extremely high. There are tricks you can learn with time and experience to turn out extremely consistent parts on a band saw.
Never a good idea to wear gloves around spinning tools. Can do more damage than good. The only tool to wear gloves for is an angle grinder with wire wheel, as those really embed in the skin as they come loose. Other than my safety tip for the week, enjoyed your build video.
Congratulations pel video, he is very instructive for editing. I live in Brazil and soon I will be setting up my PIk 26 project. I watched the assembly of the wing they are mounting and the ribs, and I am wondering if it would be easier to cut into a CNC Router machine and put the already cut ribs in both of them. aluminum tubes and after placing the ribs would you weld the smaller tubes in the aluminum? parabens pel video, ele é muito instrutivo para a montagem. moro no Brasil e em breve estarei montando o meu projeto do PIk 26. observei a montagem da asa que estão montando e as costelas, e estou me perguntando se não seria mais fácil cortar em uma maquina CNC Router e colocar as costelas já cortadas nos dois tubos de aluminio e depois de colocada as costelas soldaria os tubos menores no aluminio?
If I understand your question correctly then yes, it would be possible to cnc cut the ribs and mount them and that would be how I would have done things had I built the wing from scratch. As it stands however we decided to modify the wing instead of rebuild so we went with the method you see here.
Have you thought about adding some reserve tanks in the next bay over? I mean you have it all opened up anyways and you are making custom main tanks already. Just a thought. My buddy has reserve tanks in his wings like that and although he almost never uses them, they have come quite in handy a couple of times. Empty they won’t add hardly any weight. Thanks for the content, I’m fully nerding out on this.
I have considered it. I’d have to contend with the drag braces in that bay which makes it a bit harder than it seems since that’s a lot of weight to plan for. I’ll be reviewing my finally fuel capacity once the main tanks are completed and will be balancing out a reasonably sized header tank against additional long range wing tanks.
Did you consider scarf joints instead of butt? More difficult to do I know but much stronger. I am amazed at what the U.S. Experimental system allows you to do, in the UK the paperwork would take more time than the build!!! I just finished an Avid Speedwing that I started building in 1992 so I appreciate what you are doing.
When we considered the forces in play we decided that butt joints with fiberglass reinforcement would be more than sufficient and would cut down complexity significantly. We are certainly lucky where our paperwork situation is concerned here in the States.
Is there any activity underway to reduce restrictions on home builders? Seems to me that there's an assumption that builders aren't competent enough to make those decisions. Of course the existing method keeps a lot of folks in jobs.
Excellent video! I love the time lapse. Just out of curiosity, how did you come up with that wing design? I'm guessing there will not be any wind tunnel testing to determine speeds. Keep up the great work?
A lot of experience and thinking went into the design. Analysis of aircraft I like, my own design knowledge, and more. And yes you are correct, sadly no wind tunnel testing. Not really practical for what we’re doing here.
New Sub.. :) Your dad did a crazy fantastic job with all the fine detail wood work. I'm anxious to watch the rest of the build. I will say however, it looks like you eliminated some of the bracing in the cabin? I'm sure you ran the numbers...
We did consider all the structural changes in the cabin area and there’s more to come on that front soon! I’ll be covering all the engineering in more detail in future episodes.
Are you going to have it so the wings fold? Plus I'd like to get some of your plans can I get some from you I am thinking about finding an avid and doing what you're doing cuz I am 7 feet tall and can't fit in a kitfox
I have no intention of releasing plans. For one they don’t really exist, also the liability is way too high and I would never suggest anyone to do this as it is not really an efficient process.
I don’t have exact numbers yet but including control surfaces roughly 6-12” deeper on chord. Wingspan will be similar as the only differences will be in the tips.
It’s not a specific airfoil. It is based off my years of designing competitive model aircraft and flying a lot of different aircraft similar to what I want. It’s close to the airfoil used on the rans s21.
It’s not a specific airfoil. It is based off my years of designing competitive model aircraft and flying a lot of different aircraft similar to what I want. It’s close to the airfoil used on the rans s21.
I too am wondering if you just drew an "airfoil" that you thought looked good or did you use an engineered wind tunnel / computer design ?........ where are the Flaps & Ailerons ? and...... ... Baffles in that fuel tank would be a real upgrade in the fuel system. GOOD LOOKING PROJECT ! FYI: YOU NEED A BIGGER WORKSPACE... (lol)
There’s more to it than a napkin sketch but less than a wind tunnel and computer fluid modeling. I studied the airfoils of similar aircraft I like the characteristics of and worked between those to choose what I have here.
Oh Great,.. Love the look of the improved airfoil,.... building a Legal Eagle XL and was thinking about a "Better" higher lift ,thinner wing of my own design... think I'd like to see more of you wing when it flys. Thanks for the info.
Your router table top needs to be much closer to the actual router bit to avoid vibration. Also, the bit needs to be sharp and the project needs to be tight to the table.
Let us know when she will fly. We will try and make it out to the airport to see this.
5 років тому+1
Parabéns meu amigo meu nome é Dener e sou. Do Brasil sou construtor de aeronave experimental e fizemos umas modificaçõa em uma assa de um kit Fox que ficou bem parecida com a que vc vez gostaria de saber se vc já fez os testes e como foi Grato
I guess I just don't understand why building new ribs to the exact shape you want wouldn't be easier? All those glued joints and trim to fit while done superbly seem like a heavier alternative with allot of extra work and time?
I do have some experience with airfoil design from designing model aircraft back when I kitted and competed with them. It’s actually a great environment to learn that because you can test many airfoils in the real world under extreme circumstances in short order. I’d say that in the type of aircraft I use to fly and design I worked with 7-8 airfoils I designed and test flew literally dozens of others to see how various wing platforms worked for people.
@@ianslife210 That's awesome. I mean I would be way too worried to mess with that stuff but it's fun to watch you and your dad go to town with experimentation and fabrication!
Theoretically you could, maybe with one of the new plastic/carbon hybrids available however the truth is that the strength to volume ratio of wood is difficult to imitate. It would also be prohibitively expensive.
I don't understand why you didn't just start over and make complete routed out ribs of your design and epoxy them in place just like the original?? Less work and time.
Where specifically? There will be a few methods used. Glue on the ribs to spare and trailing edge, rivets for the leading edge sheeting. Some combinations elsewhere.
@@ianslife210 What about EPS hot-wired to shape and to fit between the new leading edge rib extensions and in front of the old LE spar? Then covered with weaved glass fibre cloth for protection (like RC planes) before applying final wing covering. Would that be easier / cheaper / lighter than aluminum? Disclaimer: I'm not a plane builder (yet! although I've built plenty of RC models) but I watched Trent Palmer's video about his temporary LE cuff and just thought of that as an alternative to metal as I watched your video.
Actually aluminum to wood is quite common. The original wing employed metal spare with wood ribs for over 4000 trouble free hours and every Kitfox and highlander made has wood/aluminum construction. Typically hysol epoxy is used and sometimes rivets as well for critical applications.
wasnt referring to your ribs. was referring to your front aluminum wing cap. also i am not up to date on new glues. just wondering with the aluminum wanting to spring back will glue hold it in place ok. i understand using foam or fiberglass or carbon but not aluminum.
So glad you dropped this whole experiment. At least I pray you have!!!!!
First decent aviation channel I've seen. Most are just spoiled rich kids crashing their planes. Thanks for the humble love of human flight
You have created a spindle-moulder there. One of the more hazardous machines in any cabinet or joinery workshop. Prudent to take the extra precautions.
I like the simple wing construction! 👍🏻
Nice work. Video work is excellent and like watching you work with your father...you two are quite the team. Thank you for sharing.
Ian, thanks for another great video. This was nicely edited: I enjoyed watching your father knock out those spars: It reminded how much I enjoyed working with my father on home project throughout my adult life.
Just wanted to say I'm really enjoying your videos. I love your editing technique. Just the right amount of action vs narration.
Really good to see the project coming along so well. Great idea regarding the weight saving technique
Great teamwork.
I'm loving this build series!
This one looks more like "Ians Dads life". It is really cool that you can work on this project together! Thanks for the excellent video
Hey Ian, this is Alan, I met your friend Steven a while back at hooks. I really enjoy your videos! One thing I wanted to mention from this video I saw, you all talked about making an aluminum skin leading edge. I have a wooden experimental plane with an aluminum leading edge (plans called for wood or aluminum) but when it gets hot out in the sun that aluminum expands and warps. It doesn’t effect the way if flys but isn’t the prettiest thing to look at and my friend who built it says he wished he had used a wooden leading edge. The warps go away when it cools down. Food for thought, y’all keep up the great work!!!
Ooh, now that is interesting. I’ll investigate that more, thanks for the input!
Yup. Try thin Okoume using iodine and/or steam to bend tight leading edge
Alan, I ran into the same thing and decided to use 1/16 plywood for the same reason. That worked out fine and never a problem with deformation.
Brilliant, great videos
Nice progress dude! Cant wait to see the finished product!
VERY NICE!
New subscribed from Somalia
One more thing I will add, I think one major thing about my airplane and the warping is the color of paint. The leading edges of my airplane are painted dark blue, while the rest of the wing is white. The dark blue get extremely warm, while the white... not so much. The combination between the dark paint and the aluminum is probably not the best. So if you do go forward with an aluminum leading edge I recommend just painting it a very light color. Can’t wait for the next update!
Keep it up!
Looking super good! Wishing I had the time to make as much progress on my airplane. I have to say the wing rib modifications look extremely nice I would personally probably trust the t88 without fiberglass tape. If t88 fails on my airplane I will fly as good as a rock. My ribs are quarter-inch sticks with gussets
Honestly it’s probably overkill but there’s some places I’ll go lengths to remove weight so I can have that overkill in others.
Travis Weide yeah, T88 is probably stronger than it being one piece of wood... but the slight weight addition is definitely worth piece of mind.
@@ianslife210 how you dedign your aircraft?
Hi Ian, I’m really enjoying watching the process your going through; it’s really interesting and instructive. Question: Would it have been less work to build a new wing from scratch rather than modifying the existing wing? I’d be interested in your thoughts on that. Thanks, Eric
I had that discussion with my father as well. He’s fairly convinced it is less work to modify, I’m less convinced. It is definitely a lot cheaper this way so I’m willing to go with it.
Thanks for the response. I’ll definitely keep watching. Eric
Just a range of little observations after stumbling on this...
I'm aware that just building new (and probably better designed ie; all metal) wings would likely be quicker and easier, a simple single spar/single strut wing would need a work around to pick up on the original wing attach points.
You may have picked up that I'm not a fan of the basic aluminium tube, ultralight wing structure, although it's easy enough to make, but it does come with a few problems that people often miss.
The primary one is the bending and flexing of the tubes, and how that effects the various parts of the structure, namely the stringer that runs along the top of the ribs to hold the leading edge sheet.
Very early Avids (and following clones there of) understood the flex problem, and used multiple nose riblets to try and maintain a good section to various degrees of success. When they then wanted to create a better shape, thin plywood or laid up fibreglass sheet was glued to the ribs as this material could take the compressive loads created by the wing flex.
Then people started using thin aluminium sheet which would sometimes buckle from the flex, or they would use thick enough sheet that didn't seem to buckle, but this now transfers the movement to the ends (inboard and outboard) of the wing and (often un-noticed) cracking the ribs at the top stringer, or shearing the glue/rivets at the leading edge tube to sheet joint out near the tip.
this is usually hidden by the fabric covering which usually only comes off after a ground loop or similar, and said delaminations/shears/cracks are usually regarded as part of the impact damage.
On a different note, when the lower rib parts were made and the long skinny lightening holes where cut out, in reality those cutouts could have gone right to the join line as the lower part of the original rib would have had sufficient support, and the glue used would easily hold the lower rib by the remaining little 'stand-offs'.
Also, one sixteenth (1/16th or 0.063") alloy for the tank is overkill, 0.032~0.040" would be plenty, and if you fabricated it sealing and riveting, you could probably make it from 0.025", just have all the join flanges folded on the outside, just have a look at any Piper Cherokee, or many of the Cessna wing tanks. Maximum volume without being buried inside the wing.
If you choose a well designed, optimum airfoil remind that actual contour between the wide standing ribs is different. The upper side is fatter between the ribs, if airload pulls the ceconite up, to outside.
I see that M3 bumper upgrade... playa.
Aluminum leading edge is a no go due to the expansion rate of aluminum over wood. Something is going to get lose over time. You also need to get a certified aircraft welder to do the welding,
What is the taildragger shown at the end of your intro?
Thanks for showing your work process in building your own airplane and making aviation improvements in general!
This may be a dumb question, but with your experience in woodworking and setting the wing spars, wouldn't it have been easier / faster, and maybe even safer, to just make new wing ribs and have even more consistency in the shape? My band saw does not allow me to make a consistent shape between any two pieces of wood. Maybe it's operator error.
Thanks again for the great vid.
It’s an open question if it would have been easier to make a new wing rather than modify the old wing but my reason for doing so would have been design flexibility and potential weight savings, not accuracy. Our accuracy on this has been extremely high. There are tricks you can learn with time and experience to turn out extremely consistent parts on a band saw.
What glue are you using to secure the ribs to the spar?
Never a good idea to wear gloves around spinning tools. Can do more damage than good. The only tool to wear gloves for is an angle grinder with wire wheel, as those really embed in the skin as they come loose. Other than my safety tip for the week, enjoyed your build video.
Well..latex gloves work fine. They rip in stead of rip finger.
Congratulations pel video, he is very instructive for editing. I live in Brazil and soon I will be setting up my PIk 26 project. I watched the assembly of the wing they are mounting and the ribs, and I am wondering if it would be easier to cut into a CNC Router machine and put the already cut ribs in both of them. aluminum tubes and after placing the ribs would you weld the smaller tubes in the aluminum?
parabens pel video, ele é muito instrutivo para a montagem. moro no Brasil e em breve estarei montando o meu projeto do PIk 26. observei a montagem da asa que estão montando e as costelas, e estou me perguntando se não seria mais fácil cortar em uma maquina CNC Router e colocar as costelas já cortadas nos dois tubos de aluminio e depois de colocada as costelas soldaria os tubos menores no aluminio?
If I understand your question correctly then yes, it would be possible to cnc cut the ribs and mount them and that would be how I would have done things had I built the wing from scratch. As it stands however we decided to modify the wing instead of rebuild so we went with the method you see here.
Have you thought about adding some reserve tanks in the next bay over? I mean you have it all opened up anyways and you are making custom main tanks already. Just a thought. My buddy has reserve tanks in his wings like that and although he almost never uses them, they have come quite in handy a couple of times. Empty they won’t add hardly any weight. Thanks for the content, I’m fully nerding out on this.
I have considered it. I’d have to contend with the drag braces in that bay which makes it a bit harder than it seems since that’s a lot of weight to plan for. I’ll be reviewing my finally fuel capacity once the main tanks are completed and will be balancing out a reasonably sized header tank against additional long range wing tanks.
Are you going to add baffles inside the fuel tank to prevent sloshing?
Yes absolutely! Several baffles will be installed to keep the fuel from straying away from the pickups.
Did you consider scarf joints instead of butt? More difficult to do I know but much stronger. I am amazed at what the U.S. Experimental system allows you to do, in the UK the paperwork would take more time than the build!!! I just finished an Avid Speedwing that I started building in 1992 so I appreciate what you are doing.
When we considered the forces in play we decided that butt joints with fiberglass reinforcement would be more than sufficient and would cut down complexity significantly. We are certainly lucky where our paperwork situation is concerned here in the States.
Is there any activity underway to reduce restrictions on home builders? Seems to me that there's an assumption that builders aren't competent enough to make those decisions. Of course the existing method keeps a lot of folks in jobs.
Nothing on the US side of things that I’ve heard.
Excellent video! I love the time lapse. Just out of curiosity, how did you come up with that wing design? I'm guessing there will not be any wind tunnel testing to determine speeds. Keep up the great work?
A lot of experience and thinking went into the design. Analysis of aircraft I like, my own design knowledge, and more. And yes you are correct, sadly no wind tunnel testing. Not really practical for what we’re doing here.
Best of luck! I will be watching to see how it all goes.
How long are the wing ribs
Drum sander/Spindle 3:40
New Sub.. :) Your dad did a crazy fantastic job with all the fine detail wood work. I'm anxious to watch the rest of the build. I will say however, it looks like you eliminated some of the bracing in the cabin? I'm sure you ran the numbers...
We did consider all the structural changes in the cabin area and there’s more to come on that front soon! I’ll be covering all the engineering in more detail in future episodes.
I forget if you've mentioned what covering you're going to use but I'm guessing Oratex if your goal is lightweight.
I’d really like to but it will be cost dependent at the time.
Looks like the Bandsaw should have done it , in a single step skip any routering .
What size tube are the spars mate?
Most tube spar aircraft use the same tubes. I believe they’re 2.5” but I could have that wrong. They’re the same as a modern kitfox or Highlander.
You’re doing darn near the design I’ve been planning, what good timing. Looks real good! What are those spars made from?
The spare are the factory aluminum tube avid spars.
What plywood are you using?
Aviation grade plywood from aircraft spruce.
Are you going to have it so the wings fold? Plus I'd like to get some of your plans can I get some from you I am thinking about finding an avid and doing what you're doing cuz I am 7 feet tall and can't fit in a kitfox
I have no intention of releasing plans. For one they don’t really exist, also the liability is way too high and I would never suggest anyone to do this as it is not really an efficient process.
What material is the yellow spar made out of please ?
Aluminum tube. The yellow is just paint.
@@ianslife210 thank you i thought it was some carbon fiber material.
Nice. How much thicker and longer is the wing going to be?
I don’t have exact numbers yet but including control surfaces roughly 6-12” deeper on chord. Wingspan will be similar as the only differences will be in the tips.
Love how the circular saw sat on the floor for ages and you just walked around it instead of picking it up ?
I’ll have to go watch for that now! I hadn’t even noticed I was doing it.
How much is wing area increasing with chord change?
I haven’t done the numbers yet as I don’t have the wing tip locked down but I will be doing a complete comparison of all specs before I’m done.
What airfoil are you going with on this wing?
It’s not a specific airfoil. It is based off my years of designing competitive model aircraft and flying a lot of different aircraft similar to what I want. It’s close to the airfoil used on the rans s21.
It’s not a specific airfoil. It is based off my years of designing competitive model aircraft and flying a lot of different aircraft similar to what I want. It’s close to the airfoil used on the rans s21.
I too am wondering if you just drew an "airfoil" that you thought looked good or did you use an engineered wind tunnel / computer design ?........ where are the Flaps & Ailerons ? and...... ... Baffles in that fuel tank would be a real upgrade in the fuel system. GOOD LOOKING PROJECT ! FYI: YOU NEED A BIGGER WORKSPACE... (lol)
There’s more to it than a napkin sketch but less than a wind tunnel and computer fluid modeling. I studied the airfoils of similar aircraft I like the characteristics of and worked between those to choose what I have here.
Also yes, I definitely do need more space for this!
Oh Great,.. Love the look of the improved airfoil,.... building a Legal Eagle XL and was thinking about a "Better" higher lift ,thinner wing of my own design... think I'd like to see more of you wing when it flys. Thanks for the info.
Your router table top needs to be much closer to the actual router bit to avoid vibration. Also, the bit needs to be sharp and the project needs to be tight to the table.
What was the original wing from?
The original parts of the project are all from an Avid B.
Let us know when she will fly. We will try and make it out to the airport to see this.
Parabéns meu amigo meu nome é Dener e sou. Do Brasil sou construtor de aeronave experimental e fizemos umas modificaçõa em uma assa de um kit Fox que ficou bem parecida com a que vc vez gostaria de saber se vc já fez os testes e como foi Grato
Saludos
I guess I just don't understand why building new ribs to the exact shape you want wouldn't be easier? All those glued joints and trim to fit while done superbly seem like a heavier alternative with allot of extra work and time?
Im kind of supriced they dont use a cnc router with that much precise routing work... they are not that expensive nowdays
❣❣💟💟💘💘
Are you an aeronautical engineer? Do you have some experience in airfoil design? I don't think I could do this stuff at all.
I do have some experience with airfoil design from designing model aircraft back when I kitted and competed with them. It’s actually a great environment to learn that because you can test many airfoils in the real world under extreme circumstances in short order. I’d say that in the type of aircraft I use to fly and design I worked with 7-8 airfoils I designed and test flew literally dozens of others to see how various wing platforms worked for people.
@@ianslife210 That's awesome. I mean I would be way too worried to mess with that stuff but it's fun to watch you and your dad go to town with experimentation and fabrication!
PLEASE USE AN INSERT IN THAT ROUTER TABLE.
Could this be 3d printed?
Theoretically you could, maybe with one of the new plastic/carbon hybrids available however the truth is that the strength to volume ratio of wood is difficult to imitate. It would also be prohibitively expensive.
Tubes are good, ask any grumman driver
I don't understand why you didn't just start over and make complete routed out ribs of your design and epoxy them in place just like the original?? Less work and time.
Love the build.... but you staring at the monitor and not the camera lens is odd.
Something I continually struggle with! So much easier to talk to a face than a lens. Thanks for the reminder I need to work on that though!
aluminum to plywood???? how
Where specifically? There will be a few methods used. Glue on the ribs to spare and trailing edge, rivets for the leading edge sheeting. Some combinations elsewhere.
@@ianslife210 What about EPS hot-wired to shape and to fit between the new leading edge rib extensions and in front of the old LE spar? Then covered with weaved glass fibre cloth for protection (like RC planes) before applying final wing covering. Would that be easier / cheaper / lighter than aluminum? Disclaimer: I'm not a plane builder (yet! although I've built plenty of RC models) but I watched Trent Palmer's video about his temporary LE cuff and just thought of that as an alternative to metal as I watched your video.
I was wondering also! You can't just glue wood to aluminum!!!
Actually aluminum to wood is quite common. The original wing employed metal spare with wood ribs for over 4000 trouble free hours and every Kitfox and highlander made has wood/aluminum construction. Typically hysol epoxy is used and sometimes rivets as well for critical applications.
wasnt referring to your ribs. was referring to your front aluminum wing cap. also i am not up to date on new glues. just wondering with the aluminum wanting to spring back will glue hold it in place ok. i understand using foam or fiberglass or carbon but not aluminum.