Just getting started Redesigning the electronics on the DS4 Fuel injection so I can reliably run "black Diesel". (Yes I wish they hadn't put an optical sensor in the fuel flow... bad move, but I think I have a work around). Ultimately, monitor the PWM Signal at the Fuel Delivery Solenoid. That is where the magic happens. If that Solenoid is failing or the Signal changes causing the bad run condition... you can work your way backwards from there to solve random shut down issues. I have helped develop 1st injected Harley, Master Craft Marine, Ford Mustang, Roush Racing, GM Saturn & Experimental Aviation. I am mostly retired now and want to burn scrubbed ATF (get for free) in my work truck. Any interest in the idea out there?
If you are able to make it work, it'd definitely save a bunch of money per fuel up. Personally If I were to have any interest in running black diesel, I would just bite the bullet and buy a 93 truck with a DB2 only for simplicity. Don't get me wrong, its an noble quest your embarking on, I just don't have the time to invest myself.
@@JessePelkey1 Hi, thanks for the reply. I have seriously considered the DB2. (May end up there if i can find one). I looked into it and they are a bit pricey while I have a whole warehouse of electrical engineering stuff and the know how. Pretty sure it would be an advancement to the group if I could pull it off. A small bit of electronics, hardened for extreme EMP, that you could just plug into the DS4 and keep rocking. The pump would be fine in an EMP/Solar storm. Coils& batteries don't generally mind that sort of stuff. It's the computers that go poof. This is all in the range of the advanced R&D I have done for 40 years. There would be lots of extra motor oil available if all the cars no longer ran. A guy would be styling for transport while everybody else is walking. Imagine the "Ultimate PMD" that runs it all on waste oil no matter what.😄 Don't even need it till ya do. Like a fire extinguisher.
@@JessePelkey1 Any thoughts on Max peak and sustained boost on MLS Gsskets and ARP Studs? How about Max and sustained boost on the stock turbo? What do you see fail on the turbo? Bearings or melted turbo? What is a safe Max EGT at the turbine outlet?. I know the questions but as a gas guy with tons of hours in Dyno. Not a lot of REAL WORLD experience with Diesel. I am all about experience. I know what the book says. Lol. Be safe brother
I'm watching all this because I'm living in a Chevy Express 2000 highroof. Like really high. It has 5.7, but with all the weight i think i prefer a diesel. Plus i would like to 4x4 swap it eventually. I was thinking about putting a centrifugal supercharger on the 5.7, but i like the idea of a turbo diesel more. Plus possibility of a mechanical pump i want go that way makes it interesting.
I still have the 96 single cab dually that would be perfect for you to get some content on! Folks be steady asking for updates & videos on that truck on my channel
Hey Jesse. Love the videos. 40 years in Advance Engine Development here in Detroit under my belt. Almost all gas. Picked up an old City of Detroit C3500HD with a Crane, Lift gate & 11x7 foot AL stake bed/tool box. The more boost, the more coolant out the overflow. 4psi =1 gal per hour. 10psi the whole volume IN 1/2H. Oil = no water, No leaks to outside. Will hand block hone head gasket surface, use .051 Cometic MLS gaskets and ARP Studs for upgrade/repair. Q: 1) Any idea what a high safe head gasket boost pressure will be after upgrade? 2) What is a safe max and running turbo pressure on a stock turbo? I assume the bearing fails if the stock turbo is pushed too hard? (Or melt the turbine?) I respect your opinion. .... thanks for any heads up you can share. M
Hey man, to answer your questions: 1: After ARP studs and cometic gaskets, I have personally seen upwards of 33psi as far as holding together on stock bottom end. After that the stock internals start to become the weakest link 2: Personally I have pushed stock GM5 and GM8 turbos to their braking points. Both are safe to run up to 18 psi for the most part, after that they pretty well fall apart. The bearings inside start to fail, causing the turbine and compressor to wear into the housing.
I enjoy watching your vids since i discovered you recently. I got a 96 burb with the 6.5 i bought a few months ago. Runs good for 320,000 miles and barely has any blow by. Only problem is it doesnt want to start that well even when warm. I fixed the leaking diesel from the return lines and did the optical bump. The engine runs very well and stays cool with the 5 inch exhaust i installed on it. Need to get some trans and egt gauges though. Previous owner did glow plugs but said it could use fusible links. Where should i check for that? Maybe thats the reason it doesnt want to start?
Hey man, glad you like the videos. 6.5L rely heavily on proper functioning glow plugs. I would double check to verify what the previous owner said about him changing them. If not its not a bad idea to just get new ones and change them out yourself just for piece of mind. The next thing to look at as far as the glow plug system would be the wires and the glow plug relay. Relay is located on the drivers side cylinder head back by the firewall and fuel filter housing under the hood. I have seen more often than I would care to count, where a truck wouldn't start in july due to burnt out glow plugs or a bad relay.
Fairly common, it can be catastrophic if it does get bad enough. Typically from what I've seen the issue is never really noticed until a rebuild is in the process. I'm sure there are plenty of 6.5l's out there that are cracked and the owners of those trucks don't even know.
Do the bolts just keep snapping or does it seem like they back out and break? Could be an imbalanced flywheel, or too much vibration in the rotating assembly
I just finished re-attsching the entire 4L89E in a 15,000 Duly C3500HD. The trans almost fell out. 1 Bolt remaining on the bell house, no nuts on the trans mount. Just the drive shaft connected. The engine and trans separated tearing the center out of the flex plate and breaking 2 bolts off in the crank. 3 more broken in the block. Lots of practice on "on frame" broken bolt removal. Ask and I can describe what works if needs be.
Websight is currently inactive as we are getting inventory adjusted, as soon as that is done the Websight will be active. Should only take a week or two
@@JessePelkey1 I have a 96 6.5 it has intermittent stalling issues , it bogs down and stalls out . Sometimes restarts right away other times won’t start at all . Sometimes I don’t hear the lift pump when it doesn’t restart . Wondering if I should put a fuel pressure gauge in to see if the lift pump is cutting out intermittently. It lefts me stranded twice . Went back to it after a while and it restarted . I need it to be reliable it’s a 12 foot rack body for work . I changed the fuel filter and bleed it . Still same problem . Also changed the PMD . Im wondering if there is a way I can text the fuel solenoid shut off or maybe it’s the oil pressure switch ? Im at a loss as far as how to test these items . Knowing very little about diesels.
Issue with lift pump with cause lack of power under throttle, but if it stalls while just cruising or from a bump, then I would not suspect lift pump. Might look at passlock system. Faulty connection, work ignition lock cylinder Can cause no starts. Not sure if pass lock problems cause stalling, but worth looking at as a possibility in my opinion.
@@michaelfriend1853could very well be the oil pressure sensor there is a relay kit that runs the load of the lift pump through the relay instead of the oil pressure sensor.
@@JessePelkey1how difficult is it to set injection pump timing on a 94? I'd be interested in doing it myself but I feel like there is a few things I'm not qualified to do
Your 6.5 content is the best! It’s really helped me keep my big ugly ‘97 crew cab 3500 running fine. Keep up the awesome work my friend.
I appreciate it man, thank you. Im glad the videos have been helpful
Just getting started Redesigning the electronics on the DS4 Fuel injection so I can reliably run "black Diesel". (Yes I wish they hadn't put an optical sensor in the fuel flow... bad move, but I think I have a work around).
Ultimately, monitor the PWM Signal at the Fuel Delivery Solenoid. That is where the magic happens. If that Solenoid is failing or the Signal changes causing the bad run condition... you can work your way backwards from there to solve random shut down issues.
I have helped develop 1st injected Harley, Master Craft Marine, Ford Mustang, Roush Racing, GM Saturn & Experimental Aviation. I am mostly retired now and want to burn scrubbed ATF (get for free) in my work truck. Any interest in the idea out there?
If you are able to make it work, it'd definitely save a bunch of money per fuel up. Personally If I were to have any interest in running black diesel, I would just bite the bullet and buy a 93 truck with a DB2 only for simplicity. Don't get me wrong, its an noble quest your embarking on, I just don't have the time to invest myself.
@@JessePelkey1 Hi, thanks for the reply. I have seriously considered the DB2. (May end up there if i can find one). I looked into it and they are a bit pricey while I have a whole warehouse of electrical engineering stuff and the know how. Pretty sure it would be an advancement to the group if I could pull it off. A small bit of electronics, hardened for extreme EMP, that you could just plug into the DS4 and keep rocking. The pump would be fine in an EMP/Solar storm. Coils& batteries don't generally mind that sort of stuff. It's the computers that go poof. This is all in the range of the advanced R&D I have done for 40 years. There would be lots of extra motor oil available if all the cars no longer ran. A guy would be styling for transport while everybody else is walking. Imagine the "Ultimate PMD" that runs it all on waste oil no matter what.😄 Don't even need it till ya do. Like a fire extinguisher.
@@JessePelkey1 Any thoughts on Max peak and sustained boost on MLS Gsskets and ARP Studs?
How about Max and sustained boost on the stock turbo?
What do you see fail on the turbo? Bearings or melted turbo?
What is a safe Max EGT at the turbine outlet?.
I know the questions but as a gas guy with tons of hours in Dyno. Not a lot of REAL WORLD experience with Diesel. I am all about experience. I know what the book says. Lol.
Be safe brother
I'm watching all this because I'm living in a Chevy Express 2000 highroof. Like really high. It has 5.7, but with all the weight i think i prefer a diesel. Plus i would like to 4x4 swap it eventually. I was thinking about putting a centrifugal supercharger on the 5.7, but i like the idea of a turbo diesel more. Plus possibility of a mechanical pump i want go that way makes it interesting.
I love your 6.5l content. I have a 6.5 and have been upgrading it and learning how to by watching you.
Great to hear man, glad my videos have been of some help, and thank you for watching. What year you got?
1996 k2500.
@@Cjtaylordiesel very nice
your doing it Jesse, thanks! i have a 6.5 also in my little bus and enjoy watching your videos.
I appreciate you taking the time to watch the videos man, thank you. 6.5L bus is pretty sweet! more videos soon to come for sure.
I still have the 96 single cab dually that would be perfect for you to get some content on! Folks be steady asking for updates & videos on that truck on my channel
Best time to get at it would be right after spring brother. Would be more than happy to get her all figured out for ya.
@@JessePelkey1 sounds like a plan, lets do it! Would be a great collab 💪
Absolutely
I sent you a text, do you have the same number?
Hey Jesse. Love the videos.
40 years in Advance Engine Development here in Detroit under my belt. Almost all gas.
Picked up an old City of Detroit C3500HD with a Crane, Lift gate & 11x7 foot AL stake bed/tool box.
The more boost, the more coolant out the overflow. 4psi =1 gal per hour. 10psi the whole volume IN 1/2H. Oil = no water, No leaks to outside.
Will hand block hone head gasket surface, use .051 Cometic MLS gaskets and ARP Studs for upgrade/repair.
Q: 1) Any idea what a high safe head gasket boost pressure will be after upgrade?
2) What is a safe max and running turbo pressure on a stock turbo? I assume the bearing fails if the stock turbo is pushed too hard? (Or melt the turbine?)
I respect your opinion. .... thanks for any heads up you can share.
M
Hey man, to answer your questions:
1: After ARP studs and cometic gaskets, I have personally seen upwards of 33psi as far as holding together on stock bottom end. After that the stock internals start to become the weakest link
2: Personally I have pushed stock GM5 and GM8 turbos to their braking points. Both are safe to run up to 18 psi for the most part, after that they pretty well fall apart. The bearings inside start to fail, causing the turbine and compressor to wear into the housing.
Good to see you again
Glad to be back man
I enjoy watching your vids since i discovered you recently. I got a 96 burb with the 6.5 i bought a few months ago. Runs good for 320,000 miles and barely has any blow by. Only problem is it doesnt want to start that well even when warm. I fixed the leaking diesel from the return lines and did the optical bump. The engine runs very well and stays cool with the 5 inch exhaust i installed on it. Need to get some trans and egt gauges though. Previous owner did glow plugs but said it could use fusible links. Where should i check for that? Maybe thats the reason it doesnt want to start?
Hey man, glad you like the videos. 6.5L rely heavily on proper functioning glow plugs. I would double check to verify what the previous owner said about him changing them. If not its not a bad idea to just get new ones and change them out yourself just for piece of mind. The next thing to look at as far as the glow plug system would be the wires and the glow plug relay. Relay is located on the drivers side cylinder head back by the firewall and fuel filter housing under the hood. I have seen more often than I would care to count, where a truck wouldn't start in july due to burnt out glow plugs or a bad relay.
@JessePelkey1 ah OK prob need to check the relay. Will it throw a code if bad?
@@Lucasr09 it can but not always
Question , how did that motor get the hairline cracks ? From the overheating?
A mixture of things can cause main web cracking, heat, weak casting of the block, and rotating assembly imbalance are the main factors.
Is the main web cracks a common issue on 6.5L? does it ever crack all the way thru to a catastrophic failure often, Or is that a rare thing?
Fairly common, it can be catastrophic if it does get bad enough. Typically from what I've seen the issue is never really noticed until a rebuild is in the process. I'm sure there are plenty of 6.5l's out there that are cracked and the owners of those trucks don't even know.
Are there blocks available that aren't cracked? From where? junk yard or rebuild sellers??@@JessePelkey1
Have you ever seen a 6.5 keep breaking flywheel to crank bolts??
Do the bolts just keep snapping or does it seem like they back out and break? Could be an imbalanced flywheel, or too much vibration in the rotating assembly
They are just snapping off.
I just finished re-attsching the entire 4L89E in a 15,000 Duly C3500HD. The trans almost fell out. 1 Bolt remaining on the bell house, no nuts on the trans mount. Just the drive shaft connected.
The engine and trans separated tearing the center out of the flex plate and breaking 2 bolts off in the crank. 3 more broken in the block. Lots of practice on "on frame" broken bolt removal. Ask and I can describe what works if needs be.
Been in the same boat but I haven’t made content since 2011-2012 ish
I hear ya man
I find some 6.5 up my way in WV. May have a new block soon. What is the link to your webpape?
Websight is currently inactive as we are getting inventory adjusted, as soon as that is done the Websight will be active. Should only take a week or two
Are you available for paid consultation diagnosing my 6.5?
You don't have to pay me man, happy to help where I can. Watcha got going on with yours?
@@JessePelkey1 I have a 96 6.5 it has intermittent stalling issues , it bogs down and stalls out . Sometimes restarts right away other times won’t start at all . Sometimes I don’t hear the lift pump when it doesn’t restart . Wondering if I should put a fuel pressure gauge in to see if the lift pump is cutting out intermittently.
It lefts me stranded twice . Went back to it after a while and it restarted .
I need it to be reliable it’s a 12 foot rack body for work .
I changed the fuel filter and bleed it . Still same problem . Also changed the PMD .
Im wondering if there is a way I can text the fuel solenoid shut off or maybe it’s the oil pressure switch ? Im at a loss as far as how to test these items . Knowing very little about diesels.
Interestingly I can hit a big bump and it can start stalling out then , it has me thinking a ground issue or connection issue with the lift pump .
Issue with lift pump with cause lack of power under throttle, but if it stalls while just cruising or from a bump, then I would not suspect lift pump.
Might look at passlock system. Faulty connection, work ignition lock cylinder Can cause no starts. Not sure if pass lock problems cause stalling, but worth looking at as a possibility in my opinion.
@@michaelfriend1853could very well be the oil pressure sensor there is a relay kit that runs the load of the lift pump through the relay instead of the oil pressure sensor.
I have reached out to half a dozen shops wanting them to rebuild my 6.5 and they all have zero interest, thwy want to work on new stuff
Pretty typical now a days unfortunately. Not too many shops want to even do easy repairs on them let alone a full rebuild.
@@JessePelkey1how difficult is it to set injection pump timing on a 94? I'd be interested in doing it myself but I feel like there is a few things I'm not qualified to do
@@JessePelkey1I've also considered purchasing one from US engine production but so many things I'd change about they're build it's just all OEM
@of-Israel not too terrible so long as you have the software in order to read the TDC offset.
@@JessePelkey1what's the most challenging part in your opinion
I have a 98 running strong minus reverse for sale
How much and where is it at?
If I had the extra cash to spend I would man
5 min video in 20 mins. So much rambling. 😂