I bought myself an anycubic mono x (little 4k thing), some water washable resin to save money and a spare resin vat, and I'm using it almost every day. Fantastic little piece of kit, took Luke's advice and got a subscription to one page rules and promptly printed out an entire army in 15mm scale! Excellent machines, excellent customer service, all good.
If you got the printer for free or have been sponsored then is it really a review? To me this is just an advert and the description all but confirms it. It seems nearly 95% of "reviews" and youtubers telling people to get 3D printers, have received them for free.
Even if resin doesn't smell, the fumes will still be in the room and surrounding environment - if you don't have an airlock door it's going into the rest of the house. You will be breathing it in, leading to dermatitis and breathing difficulties over time. Always wear a mask, gloves and eye protection as you don't know how much exposure your body can take before a reaction occurs. And make sure your room is well-ventilated - that means a large fan that pulls fumes out of the room. If you have a reaction (swelling, red itchy skin or itchy eyes) you'll likely have to stop using resin in all forms. If you don't have a safe place to put a resin printer, don't even consider buying one. No models are worth your health.
people also shouldnt forget take all liquids to recycle and not to pour or wash anything down the sink, ignoring the resin the uv active agent is toxic in the extreme, might as well mix in some powdered lead with your tap
Worth pointing out for folks that the "basic" M3 version has a resin vat that requires you to buy Anycubic's proprietary all-in-one fep and frame replacements. You can't source fep elsewhere (which menas no nFEP) and they cost a more (but take less time to install).
@@TheGoatPC yep, I did say it took less time to install. It's a trade off though and I think one worth knowing about before buying. I'm not aware of any 3rd party vats for the M3, though I suspect they'll come at some point.
I have an Anycubic Photon 6k, and I haven't experienced any issues that others have. It was just plug and play. Haven't had print failures, no issues at all. I love it. I'll be sticking with Anycubic for all my future printers. Throwing Loot Studios models at Anycubic 6k is insane. They just look so good. ...I realize this sounds like an ad/bot, but I'm not! Just really love my printer.
I think it's a point to say that this has a ball screw Vs the typical lead screw that comes in printer. This is a big plus as it's 1.5 times the diameter, hardened and runs on bearings not just a screw. These are all great for longevity and accuracy and in theory should allow for quieter and faster printing.
Without a meter fitted all you can do is the math based on worst case. the M3 premium comes with a 150w power supply (never going to be drawing that much constantly but best to work high), If you are on UK max rates (34p kwh) then an hour use of the M3 is costing you 5.1p, run it non stop all day and £1.22 a day. Resin printers consume so little power that unless you have a farm of them, power cost will never be a factor compared to other costs.
I think this is a great point. When I print I usually print in Mass for a few weeks and then don't print for months and I notice a significant jump in my electric bill for the month that I use the printer.
I agree Luke this is s a better built 8k 10 inches printer for all the points you mentioned: real dual linear rails, better, bigger z-rod, a bigger vat (that's awesome for day to day use). But damn it's expensive compared with the very competitive Elegoo Saturn 2 with the same printing quality. For us Euros, it's 539€ versus the 729€ Anycubic wants for a Black Friday promotion. Honestly, I wouldn't spend the added cost for the cloud function and connectivity the Anycubic gets us. And I already have 2 Anycubic printers I do enjoy, one being the insanely good for the money Anycubic Mono 4k you mentioned. This one's a steal (170 to 190€) for people wanting to upgrade to 35 μm printing or just dip their toes into resin printing.
I have to agree on this one. It quite a bit higher priced than the direct competitions. The question becomes if the additions/extra's are worth it in price. Don't get me wrong, it looks like an amazing printer.
man I'm going to miss this guy :( we all should have built a gamming table with flock stuff. You know we almost did and then didn't - as soon as we slay that grey.... Sure.... Cheers!
I really enjoy 3d printing, so much room for creativity. I bought the Photon M3 Plus so I can make use of it's large build volume for jewelry and miniatures. I can't wait to see how many castable molds I can make with one run. It's gonna boost the product workload for me but nothing like being on a casting grind, and having mini painting is perfect for my down time hobby.
Luke you're dead right about it not quite being plug and play! Yes the printers are easy to setup and others provide great settings for you - but you can't download files (paid for or otherwise) and expect them to always work. Lots of 3d model makers out there making egregious mistakes with their "pre-supported" models that could result in damage to your FEP and worse-case scenario a leak onto your LCD. OnceInASixSide has a great video covering this element of the hobby titled "2Supporting Minis for 3D Printing | The MOST Critical Aspects" highly recommend giving that a watch
I am really tempted to get a resin printer. I got a hand-me-down filament printer from my brother that is some kind of cheap Chinese made thing, but layer lines are always going to be ugly. The thing is that I'm a half decent 3D model maker on my PC, so I could make my own STL files without breaking a sweat. It is printing them that I am no good at. I also prefer really small toys, and that is what a resin printer is good for.
@@zior92it absolutely is toxic long term. Look at the MSDS (material safety data sheet) for resins. All resin 3d printing requires PPE and adequate ventilation.
Alright, I put all my balls in your court. I'm going to buy one while its on sale. I've really wanted to 3D print my own minis cause i see so many cool ones being made through patrons and new creators poping up all the time. Fingers crossed that I don't go bankrupt figuring this stuff out.
Why? I have run mine for well over a year and I re-leveled my bed twice, both after a change of FEP. I get proper prints every single time and failures are actually an anomaly. Auto leveling on resin printers is absolutely not required.
@@TheSmuey lucky you, but look at the forums, plenty of people have an issue with it. Anything that requires tools and bits of paper is better if you can make it so it doesn't.
@@TheAegisClaw depends on the price you will pay for such convinience. In FDM i agree they are a great quality life improvement. But for resin printers, honestly, leveling is the less of the nuances and personally I wouldn't pay extra for having it.
Not enough mentionned, Anycubic has a insane sale right now on its new formula resins on its website. I grabbed 10L of ABS-like+ (all best before 2024) for 189€. Colors are random but they sent only 3 different ones so I wont have to juggle too much with the settings.
I think Chitubox recently added support for this printer into their slicer, so you're not locked to the Anycubic Workshop software. Lychee doesn't have this one listed yet.
I can vouch for both the printer and lukes honesty. This printer is fucking fire. Its almost as good as the phrozen mighty8k. And the video is sponsored by witch song. Not by anycubic. So theres that too. This printer is a freaking Gem. If you dont believe Luke because his video is sponsored, then youre just missing out. Thats on you.
I have a 2 questions. One of which which is why I never took to resin 3D printing (coming from CNC). How dimensionally accurate is the printer? If you printed 8 cubes would they all be square and sit together with no gaps making one seemless cube? Or are they still limited to organic one print shapes other wise lots of filler? The other I find frustrating is all to often 3D printed models are only shown from their good side. What about the side with the supports? Is it still the case of hand depimpling the model?
My Photon 6k with well sculpted models (Loot) looks good at every angle. For me it was at a 'holy shit' level of looking good. Every small detail perfectly printed. If you printed eight cubes I would say that they'd sit together very well, but it's definitely possible that there would be small gaps at some points.
Dimensional accuracy with resin is finicky. The material will always shrink, even when 100% accurate settings are applied. It's just the nature of the material. If you want dimensional accuracy, take a decent FDM printer, as resin just isn't going to cut it. As for supports: if they're done well, you probably can't even see any scarring after support removal and cleanup. That is one point that is WAY better than FDM printing.
Hi, I can't get Anycubic Photon Workshop to work on my computer, plus I've downloaded the lychee slicer to my computer and you can't use this with the Anycubic Photon M3 Premium, I hope I don't regret ordering one of these as a first time printer, any help would be appreciated. Many thanks.
So I ordered the anycubic m3, the same model you used for the make 40k mini video and want to start printing stuff like that. Would you happen to have an stl file I can ?
Luke ? May I ask, Has the video for homemade Airbrush thinner /reducer been removed? I've been hunting for it I seem to remember it was distilled water /99% iso and glycerine just don't remember the mix and cant seem to find the video.
Can't find the video back in my thematic playlist and I was sure I had it recorded there ( ua-cam.com/play/PLEQGQAOzLuheUsYflMX7-h1TNsif0NLg4.html ) but I've written the recipes down. Acrylic Thinner - 3 parts Matt Medium - 1 part Distilled water - a few drops of Flow Improver / RinseAid Fluid Retardant - Propylene Glycol 50% - Glycerine 50% - a few drops of Water Flow improver - 6 parts Dislilled water - 1 part Glycerine These are paintbrush recipes. For airbrush thinning, I use an alcohol mix Airbrush Acrylic Thinner (60ml batch) Alcohol mix, (works nice with Tamiya, less optimal for Vallejo, use their own brand) - 40 ml water - 25 ml isopropyl alcohol - 1 ml Slow dry (liquitex) - 1 ml Flow Aid (liquitex)
For a cleaner I use 50% screenwash, 40% water, 10% IPA and a smidge of glycerine. 5l screenwash 4l water 1l 99.9%IPA, 10 litres of airbrush cleaner for the same price as about 500ml of commercial cleaner.
This video convinced me to get the M3 premium, but unfortunately its been one problem after another since delivery. Customer service and documentation is junk. I really can't recommend it. Still love watching content from this channel though.
I find it very odd that you don't talk about the health issues of resin printing or for that the different types of resin. The really big elephant in the room is the disposal of the ipa cleaning fluid, in the UK it can't be poured down the drain it has to goto a chemical disposal site kind of a massive red flag.
With IPA just let it evaporate once its too dirty to recycle, and by recycle I mean letting it settle for a week and reusing the clean stuff. Much easier than getting rid of water from water washable resin which I think is just green washing, this cant go down the drain either. What's left after its evaporated can be cured under your UV lamp or sunshine if we ever get any in the UK then it can go in general waste. Your local tidy tip should have somewhere to leave hazardous materials, probably with the oil and paint.
I would never say they're about as plug and play as you can get because they'll always come up with some improvement. I'm waiting for them to come up with resin cartridges so you never even have to open a bottle you just attach it and it pulls the resin out as it needs it. I don't think any of these auto level themselves but fdm printers do now. Eventually I think Auto supports will get good enough that the printers will support the models for you so you can use any old STL file. I've only seen one printer that keeps the resin warm, that's a problem for me since I printed my basement where the temperature is a little cool. The humidity as well. Once you have that then you can have the printer auto adjust all the settings for you so you don't even have to mess with the slicers. Drop an STL file on the printer and skip the slicer all together. These are just some of the things that I think they can tackle in the next couple years.
Not quite a cartridge, it still uses the (already-existing) standard bottles, but the Anycubic M3 Max has an autofill system. Basically, take the storage cap off, put the pump cap on, insert it into the machine, and it automatically fills the vat as needed, even mid-print. Plus it does larger prints (thus the "max" part)... but a 7K screen at 13.6" is pretty much the equivalent of 4K at a normal size ... i.e. it has a 46 micron XY resolution, which is not quite double what the Premium has, and is only the tiniest bit worse than than the "regular" M3 (at 40 micron). As he mentioned in the video, 4k is "good enough" unless you absolutely freak out about the tiniest details, and is pretty much on par with the cast models you'll find in the stores.
@@richard3365 yeah I saw that auto feed and I think it's pretty cool but I think it's also in an expensive printer, at least too expensive for me. As far as 4K being enough I agree, that's what I've got. I thought the 2K were good enough and I really can't tell the difference between my 2K prints and my 4K prints. But now I'm looking at those color printers that print two different kinds of resin, one that dissolves away in water so it does all the supports so you don't need to manually add supports anymore, and that's what I'm looking forward to. Those printers are a good $30,000 still.
@@aaronbono4688 If you want to talk about "cool but expensive" printers ... I saw one recently (I believe Joel aka 3D Printing Nerd did a video on it) that uses just a plain white resin but combines the concept of an inkjet (paper) printer to make full (10 million) color prints (only the outer shell is colored but when it's complete you can't tell, at least until something breaks/chips off). The small version is about USD $40,000 (as far as I could tell... I couldn't find a price on their website, I guess it's one of those "if you have to ask how much it costs, you can't afford it" things) but it's an interesting concept and I can't wait for it to trickle down to consumer level. Plus it also has that water-soluble supports thing you mentioned (which is what made me think of it in the first place).
Thinking about getting a 4K printer. I normally paint 28mm miniatures. If I wanted to print buildings and vehicles to go with the 28mm range. Then would an 8K printer be a better idea for the quality of the product or can I still use a 4K printer?! Thanks 😉
You have this thing in your room ?? Resin is highly toxic and should not be used in the same room as you. It should be a well ventilated place that you enter just to setup the print and leave it be.
how to tell me you're an unpaid moutpiece for GW without telling me you're an unpaid mouthpiece for GW: go to a "3d printers good" video and say "3d printers bad"
![[UA] NAVI проти G2 Esports | Blast Premier Fall Final](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/QWlIm4FGESQ/mqdefault.jpg)
I bought myself an anycubic mono x (little 4k thing), some water washable resin to save money and a spare resin vat, and I'm using it almost every day. Fantastic little piece of kit, took Luke's advice and got a subscription to one page rules and promptly printed out an entire army in 15mm scale! Excellent machines, excellent customer service, all good.
If you got the printer for free or have been sponsored then is it really a review? To me this is just an advert and the description all but confirms it. It seems nearly 95% of "reviews" and youtubers telling people to get 3D printers, have received them for free.
Even if resin doesn't smell, the fumes will still be in the room and surrounding environment - if you don't have an airlock door it's going into the rest of the house. You will be breathing it in, leading to dermatitis and breathing difficulties over time. Always wear a mask, gloves and eye protection as you don't know how much exposure your body can take before a reaction occurs. And make sure your room is well-ventilated - that means a large fan that pulls fumes out of the room. If you have a reaction (swelling, red itchy skin or itchy eyes) you'll likely have to stop using resin in all forms. If you don't have a safe place to put a resin printer, don't even consider buying one. No models are worth your health.
people also shouldnt forget take all liquids to recycle and not to pour or wash anything down the sink, ignoring the resin the uv active agent is toxic in the extreme, might as well mix in some powdered lead with your tap
Worth pointing out for folks that the "basic" M3 version has a resin vat that requires you to buy Anycubic's proprietary all-in-one fep and frame replacements. You can't source fep elsewhere (which menas no nFEP) and they cost a more (but take less time to install).
The Photon Mono 4K also uses this "cartridge" fep system. And honestly. It's really easy. But you can always buy a 3rd party vat to get around this.
@@TheGoatPC yep, I did say it took less time to install. It's a trade off though and I think one worth knowing about before buying. I'm not aware of any 3rd party vats for the M3, though I suspect they'll come at some point.
"I'll catch yer after this." 10 minute head start. Very sporting.
That anycubic is a beast of a machine. Bit rich for my blood rn.
I have an Anycubic Photon 6k, and I haven't experienced any issues that others have. It was just plug and play. Haven't had print failures, no issues at all. I love it. I'll be sticking with Anycubic for all my future printers. Throwing Loot Studios models at Anycubic 6k is insane. They just look so good.
...I realize this sounds like an ad/bot, but I'm not! Just really love my printer.
I think it's a point to say that this has a ball screw Vs the typical lead screw that comes in printer. This is a big plus as it's 1.5 times the diameter, hardened and runs on bearings not just a screw. These are all great for longevity and accuracy and in theory should allow for quieter and faster printing.
No one ever really mentions power usage when it comes to printer reviews. I'd be interested to see that in future reviews
yeah, in our current times, this point is not unimportant
Electric monitor with LCD display costs about a tenner on Amazon. I use them to check everything these days
@@ohdeasu but, how much power does the monitor consume?
Without a meter fitted all you can do is the math based on worst case. the M3 premium comes with a 150w power supply (never going to be drawing that much constantly but best to work high), If you are on UK max rates (34p kwh) then an hour use of the M3 is costing you 5.1p, run it non stop all day and £1.22 a day. Resin printers consume so little power that unless you have a farm of them, power cost will never be a factor compared to other costs.
I think this is a great point. When I print I usually print in Mass for a few weeks and then don't print for months and I notice a significant jump in my electric bill for the month that I use the printer.
So many good printers coming out these days, love having so many choices. Cheers for the review
Argh, I'm the opposite. I hate having all these choices, it would be so much easier if there was just one clear winner for making tabletop minis.
I agree Luke this is s a better built 8k 10 inches printer for all the points you mentioned: real dual linear rails, better, bigger z-rod, a bigger vat (that's awesome for day to day use). But damn it's expensive compared with the very competitive Elegoo Saturn 2 with the same printing quality. For us Euros, it's 539€ versus the 729€ Anycubic wants for a Black Friday promotion. Honestly, I wouldn't spend the added cost for the cloud function and connectivity the Anycubic gets us. And I already have 2 Anycubic printers I do enjoy, one being the insanely good for the money Anycubic Mono 4k you mentioned. This one's a steal (170 to 190€) for people wanting to upgrade to 35 μm printing or just dip their toes into resin printing.
I have to agree on this one. It quite a bit higher priced than the direct competitions. The question becomes if the additions/extra's are worth it in price. Don't get me wrong, it looks like an amazing printer.
man I'm going to miss this guy :( we all should have built a gamming table with flock stuff. You know we almost did and then didn't - as soon as we slay that grey.... Sure.... Cheers!
I really enjoy 3d printing, so much room for creativity. I bought the Photon M3 Plus so I can make use of it's large build volume for jewelry and miniatures. I can't wait to see how many castable molds I can make with one run. It's gonna boost the product workload for me but nothing like being on a casting grind, and having mini painting is perfect for my down time hobby.
Luke you're dead right about it not quite being plug and play! Yes the printers are easy to setup and others provide great settings for you - but you can't download files (paid for or otherwise) and expect them to always work. Lots of 3d model makers out there making egregious mistakes with their "pre-supported" models that could result in damage to your FEP and worse-case scenario a leak onto your LCD. OnceInASixSide has a great video covering this element of the hobby titled "2Supporting Minis for 3D Printing | The MOST Critical Aspects" highly recommend giving that a watch
I bought a monoway back when. Love it. Truly love it. Now I'm upgrading to an M3 premium no brainer. I'm just here to hear the pluses
I am really tempted to get a resin printer. I got a hand-me-down filament printer from my brother that is some kind of cheap Chinese made thing, but layer lines are always going to be ugly. The thing is that I'm a half decent 3D model maker on my PC, so I could make my own STL files without breaking a sweat. It is printing them that I am no good at. I also prefer really small toys, and that is what a resin printer is good for.
Wow that’s really making me want to buy a 3D printer now. Thanks Luke
I switched on my mono x for the first time in 6 months yesterday. Winters here and back to staying inside
Great reviews. It’s amazing how far the industry has come
You should print off a huge Yoshi figurine to put on top of that youtube plaque!!!!
Great video!!!!
all i am worried about is the smell / toxic fumes, dont live in a huge place, what are your experiences with this?
The eco plant based resin doesn’t smell a lot. Don’t have any experience with the water washable resin.
@@nullensbert Yeah, just wondering if its toxic long term
@@zior92it absolutely is toxic long term. Look at the MSDS (material safety data sheet) for resins. All resin 3d printing requires PPE and adequate ventilation.
Cheers Luke .
🐺
Alright, I put all my balls in your court. I'm going to buy one while its on sale. I've really wanted to 3D print my own minis cause i see so many cool ones being made through patrons and new creators poping up all the time. Fingers crossed that I don't go bankrupt figuring this stuff out.
sure is im super happy with my mono 4k game changer.
I think there's still room for improvement with resin printers, I'd like to see self levelling build plates for a start.
Why? I have run mine for well over a year and I re-leveled my bed twice, both after a change of FEP. I get proper prints every single time and failures are actually an anomaly. Auto leveling on resin printers is absolutely not required.
@@TheSmuey lucky you, but look at the forums, plenty of people have an issue with it. Anything that requires tools and bits of paper is better if you can make it so it doesn't.
@@TheAegisClaw depends on the price you will pay for such convinience. In FDM i agree they are a great quality life improvement. But for resin printers, honestly, leveling is the less of the nuances and personally I wouldn't pay extra for having it.
Too heavy on the RX Dereverb. Set the reduction amount lower. It works great even at low amounts, but the artifacting at this level is super audible.
Don't get a phrozen, bought one a few years ago and i have had endless issues with it. i hope to get an anycubic soon after i sell my sonic 4k
What are the best settings for this printer?, many test prints are not turning out, many thanks.
Thanks for the info. I almost got another mono. X on sale but resin is so high now holding out for a bamboo x1c.
Not enough mentionned, Anycubic has a insane sale right now on its new formula resins on its website. I grabbed 10L of ABS-like+ (all best before 2024) for 189€. Colors are random but they sent only 3 different ones so I wont have to juggle too much with the settings.
None 3D printer person question. What happens to the supports? Are they like sprus and just get chucked away??
Great video. Sound is a little iffy
If you could recommend 1 printer for someone who plays a lot of 40K and loves minis what would it be?
Is it possible to continue the print process again after the power goes out for a while ?
What slicer can you use for this one?
I think Chitubox recently added support for this printer into their slicer, so you're not locked to the Anycubic Workshop software. Lychee doesn't have this one listed yet.
@@kerr_b thank you
Hey Luke anychance I could ask a quick question to you about this printer ???!!
I really like witchsong miniatures,
Should I buy a Elegoo Saturn 2 (8K) 3D printer or this one Anycubic Photon M3 Premium
I probably wouldn't do a review on a product if the producer is sponsoring the video.
100% this. Seems like everyone of this channels videos are sponsored to me? Or that's how it comes across
Precisely.
Yup. First thing i checked was “is this a sponsored video?” And sure enough 🙄😒 ergh moving right along…
I can vouch for both the printer and lukes honesty. This printer is fucking fire. Its almost as good as the phrozen mighty8k. And the video is sponsored by witch song. Not by anycubic. So theres that too.
This printer is a freaking Gem. If you dont believe Luke because his video is sponsored, then youre just missing out. Thats on you.
Agreed
I have a 2 questions. One of which which is why I never took to resin 3D printing (coming from CNC).
How dimensionally accurate is the printer? If you printed 8 cubes would they all be square and sit together with no gaps making one seemless cube? Or are they still limited to organic one print shapes other wise lots of filler?
The other I find frustrating is all to often 3D printed models are only shown from their good side. What about the side with the supports? Is it still the case of hand depimpling the model?
My Photon 6k with well sculpted models (Loot) looks good at every angle. For me it was at a 'holy shit' level of looking good. Every small detail perfectly printed. If you printed eight cubes I would say that they'd sit together very well, but it's definitely possible that there would be small gaps at some points.
Dimensional accuracy with resin is finicky. The material will always shrink, even when 100% accurate settings are applied. It's just the nature of the material.
If you want dimensional accuracy, take a decent FDM printer, as resin just isn't going to cut it.
As for supports: if they're done well, you probably can't even see any scarring after support removal and cleanup. That is one point that is WAY better than FDM printing.
Hi, I can't get Anycubic Photon Workshop to work on my computer, plus I've downloaded the lychee slicer to my computer and you can't use this with the Anycubic Photon M3 Premium, I hope I don't regret ordering one of these as a first time printer, any help would be appreciated. Many thanks.
So I ordered the anycubic m3, the same model you used for the make 40k mini video and want to start printing stuff like that. Would you happen to have an stl file I can ?
Luke ? May I ask, Has the video for homemade Airbrush thinner /reducer been removed? I've been hunting for it I seem to remember it was distilled water /99% iso and glycerine just don't remember the mix and cant seem to find the video.
Can't find the video back in my thematic playlist and I was sure I had it recorded there ( ua-cam.com/play/PLEQGQAOzLuheUsYflMX7-h1TNsif0NLg4.html ) but I've written the recipes down.
Acrylic Thinner
- 3 parts Matt Medium
- 1 part Distilled water
- a few drops of Flow Improver / RinseAid
Fluid Retardant
- Propylene Glycol 50%
- Glycerine 50%
- a few drops of Water
Flow improver
- 6 parts Dislilled water
- 1 part Glycerine
These are paintbrush recipes. For airbrush thinning, I use an alcohol mix
Airbrush Acrylic Thinner (60ml batch) Alcohol mix, (works nice with Tamiya, less optimal for Vallejo, use their own brand)
- 40 ml water
- 25 ml isopropyl alcohol
- 1 ml Slow dry (liquitex)
- 1 ml Flow Aid (liquitex)
@@the_arcanum thankyou!
For a cleaner I use 50% screenwash, 40% water, 10% IPA and a smidge of glycerine. 5l screenwash 4l water 1l 99.9%IPA, 10 litres of airbrush cleaner for the same price as about 500ml of commercial cleaner.
This video convinced me to get the M3 premium, but unfortunately its been one problem after another since delivery. Customer service and documentation is junk. I really can't recommend it. Still love watching content from this channel though.
I find it very odd that you don't talk about the health issues of resin printing or for that the different types of resin. The really big elephant in the room is the disposal of the ipa cleaning fluid, in the UK it can't be poured down the drain it has to goto a chemical disposal site kind of a massive red flag.
With IPA just let it evaporate once its too dirty to recycle, and by recycle I mean letting it settle for a week and reusing the clean stuff. Much easier than getting rid of water from water washable resin which I think is just green washing, this cant go down the drain either. What's left after its evaporated can be cured under your UV lamp or sunshine if we ever get any in the UK then it can go in general waste. Your local tidy tip should have somewhere to leave hazardous materials, probably with the oil and paint.
I would never say they're about as plug and play as you can get because they'll always come up with some improvement. I'm waiting for them to come up with resin cartridges so you never even have to open a bottle you just attach it and it pulls the resin out as it needs it. I don't think any of these auto level themselves but fdm printers do now. Eventually I think Auto supports will get good enough that the printers will support the models for you so you can use any old STL file. I've only seen one printer that keeps the resin warm, that's a problem for me since I printed my basement where the temperature is a little cool. The humidity as well. Once you have that then you can have the printer auto adjust all the settings for you so you don't even have to mess with the slicers. Drop an STL file on the printer and skip the slicer all together. These are just some of the things that I think they can tackle in the next couple years.
Not quite a cartridge, it still uses the (already-existing) standard bottles, but the Anycubic M3 Max has an autofill system. Basically, take the storage cap off, put the pump cap on, insert it into the machine, and it automatically fills the vat as needed, even mid-print. Plus it does larger prints (thus the "max" part)... but a 7K screen at 13.6" is pretty much the equivalent of 4K at a normal size ... i.e. it has a 46 micron XY resolution, which is not quite double what the Premium has, and is only the tiniest bit worse than than the "regular" M3 (at 40 micron). As he mentioned in the video, 4k is "good enough" unless you absolutely freak out about the tiniest details, and is pretty much on par with the cast models you'll find in the stores.
@@richard3365 yeah I saw that auto feed and I think it's pretty cool but I think it's also in an expensive printer, at least too expensive for me. As far as 4K being enough I agree, that's what I've got. I thought the 2K were good enough and I really can't tell the difference between my 2K prints and my 4K prints. But now I'm looking at those color printers that print two different kinds of resin, one that dissolves away in water so it does all the supports so you don't need to manually add supports anymore, and that's what I'm looking forward to. Those printers are a good $30,000 still.
@@aaronbono4688 If you want to talk about "cool but expensive" printers ... I saw one recently (I believe Joel aka 3D Printing Nerd did a video on it) that uses just a plain white resin but combines the concept of an inkjet (paper) printer to make full (10 million) color prints (only the outer shell is colored but when it's complete you can't tell, at least until something breaks/chips off). The small version is about USD $40,000 (as far as I could tell... I couldn't find a price on their website, I guess it's one of those "if you have to ask how much it costs, you can't afford it" things) but it's an interesting concept and I can't wait for it to trickle down to consumer level. Plus it also has that water-soluble supports thing you mentioned (which is what made me think of it in the first place).
@@richard3365 yes that's the one I was talking about above, I found it on the internet for $30,000.
formlabs more or less does all this, you just pay through the nose for it.
is the resin fume toxic
What airsoft company is that badge on your arm?
Thinking about getting a 4K printer. I normally paint 28mm miniatures. If I wanted to print buildings and vehicles to go with the 28mm range. Then would an 8K printer be a better idea for the quality of the product or can I still use a 4K printer?! Thanks 😉
For buildings I would go with a filament printer.
So which 3D printer is best for first-time users?
@@GeekGamingScenics I want to print out a Necron army; what would you recommend?
Is this printer so big or are you so tall?
What layer times were being used for these models?
@@GeekGamingScenics Thank You. You mean 0.03mm layers correct? (in the video you said 3 micron but 0.03mm would be 30micron)
You have this thing in your room ?? Resin is highly toxic and should not be used in the same room as you. It should be a well ventilated place that you enter just to setup the print and leave it be.
This thing can print insane details. It’s ridiculous
*_Good printer, but calling them "4K" and "8K" is silly._*
It's about time we classify them by definition size a.k.a. 50μm (1st Gen), 35 μm or 22μm like the Phrozen Mini 8k. The market has matured.
So, Anycubic Photon M3 Premium or Elegoo Mars 3 Pro for generic stuff, dollies and weapons/equipment for metal casting?
phoar, just phoar.
It seems my super glue wont glue my 3d prints!?! Washed n Cured 15 mins
Is this a ball screw or still acme shit? Yes it is, that's the best upgrade compared to the basic
i hated those ear rings how some people can love doing that to their ears 🤮
Man you get some real mouth breathers in your comments section.
Damn man... If they're sponsoring you, send some stuff and you do a video about it at least get the f.... name right...
how to tell me you're an unpaid moutpiece for GW without telling me you're an unpaid mouthpiece for GW:
go to a "3d printers good" video and say "3d printers bad"
I'd buy any printer that didn't use unreadable white text on a light blue background. Who thought that was a good idea?
This ad is super long. When does the video start? 🫤