Yep I swapped the LS1 for a LS6 and then did a full build up for my supercharged application it’s serviced me very well for years and have no drive-ability issues.
What's the full build up? Rebuilt LS6 with forged parts? Of course that's going to be able to handle decent boost. This vid is about the stock bottom end.
I used to worry a lot about that a lot. For example the GM 3800 Series 2 engine is 8.5 to one compression. I'm surprised though, the LS1 at 10.2 to1 runs extremely well supercharged and intercooled.
Thanks for your comments, I run my 98 C5 the same way you described, I take it to the drag strip and run the quarter mile. Mine is dyno at 648 hp at the rear wheels and 600 ft lb toque. I have 317 ported heads and upgraded pushrod springs, fast 92 intake, headers, Texas Speed 224/228 cam, Innovators West hormonic balancer, and LS2 Throttle Body with a stock bottom end.
I have a 2004 Z06 with a Procharger installed in 2005. I've owned it 8 years and have put many miles of road course track time on the stock bottom end. Always cool it off at maximum 270 degrees oil, water never over 220 degrees even on a hot summer day in SC.
im looking at purchasing a 99 supercharged corvette, the owners says it only goes a little above 220 on very hot days with ac on, should i stay away from it?
No, supercharged c5s don't run hot unless you're going wide open throttle, but then usually there's enough wind to cool it down m. Plus, most of these 20-year-old cars need their radiator and condenser thoroughly clean so it actually can flow good air through them.
@@Toys4Life so u think it could be it needs a good radiator cleaning would solve that? Car is a 99' and has 130,000 miles, he is asking 17,000.00 I'm thinking of making a lower offer, what do you think?
For Minnesota market, that seems hi to me. You really have to evaluate it versus others in your market area. Or how far you'd be willing to drive out to look at one.
Thanks for the info about superchargers (both pros and cons). Hopefully I will get a C5 soon, but if I do it will probably just get airflow mods and tuning. I want to drive a lot and take long roadtrips, so minimal impact on reliability will be my goal.
Agree with pretty much everything. I currently run a mild BTR 2 with full CNC machined LS6 Heads and Longtubes, on a dyno dynamics (mustang type) dyno it put down over 450 rwhp and 425 rwtq at 6400 rpms (dual valve spring, hardened push rods etc) and its very streetable, however, and you mentioned it, its all about that TUNE....I would advise a very deliberate dyno tune (not mail order). Very nice car btw.
Having owned my 99' FRC over 10 years I've had ample opportunity to upgrade the power but I made a choice. While it has the potential to be more challenging to the newer models there are some things I would lose if I were to boost. The main one is my driving record, I know full well if I had 200 more HP it wouldn't be long and my license would be full of points. With a cam and heads I'd have a rough idle to deal with along with the loss of awesome fuel mileage. I just really like the car the way it is and don't want to lose some of the things it has stock. My C5 is a daily driver and the best way for me to enjoy the car is to keep it that way. But I love watching you modders out there.
I’m considering getting a C5 coupe as my one-car daily driver, including Wisconsin winters on dedicated winter tires. I can only afford one vehicle and as long I stay on plowed roads and use winter/snow tires I’ll be just fine. So as much as I’d love a driving a boosted LS1 (currently driving a single-turbo I-6, I’m familiar with street driving with small-intercooler forced induction) I don’t think the cost makes sense for me because an NA C5 will be better for hard and fast road (should be on a track) driving and less likely to have problems in the cold.
The issues with supercharging a 1997-2001 LS1 'Vette, Camaro, Firechicken, etc. is the well-documented #2 compression ring issue for those years. See revised GM Service Bulletin #01-06-01-023A from June 19, 2001 regarding higher than expected oil consumption, replace rings and engine valley cover, VIN Codes G, S, RPOs LS1, LS6. (Valley cover replacement revised to include ONLY LS6). The excessive oil consumption can be as great as 1-quart per 400-600 miles! Apparently, GM revised the piston rings for the 2002-2004 C5s. Thankfully, my 2001 G Code C5 DOES NOT have an oil consumption issue, but, if I was to install a supercharger, it might develop one. I'm not willing to take that gamble. I'll simply enjoy the car as it is.
The supercharger pressure holds the rings in place better so they don't "flutter" at higher RPM's.... No, I just made that up. I get your point adding a bunch of HP seems scary - I just decided after years of seeing others have over 500HP I wanted to join the fun too. That was 5 years ago. Most LS1s hold up quite well, but a bad tune or going after too much HP will end the fun...
Your channel has definitely inspired me to Supercharge my 2001 Vette. I'm slowly (painfully slow) saving to buy all the components to do this the right way. For me your last comments on why you should supercharg your Vette hit the nail on the head, exactly. ( Funny you should mention those uppity Mustangs.)
@@Toys4Life I pretty much like anything with that V8 rumble. Prior to purchasing the Corvette I was also looking at older Camaros and Mustangs as options, I even ran across two V8 converted Fieros, actually called the seller to ask questions but it sold already. I found my C5 at the right time for the right price. Thanks for your videos, they're the blueprints for my future supercharged Corvette.
I do agree with you 110 percent,I own a c5 ls1.stock, I have been thinking of getting it supercharge,but after listening to you comments you just make a lot of common sense, the bottom end and top end must match the supercharger strength,thank you,
I think the SBE is strong enough for 525 RWHP for 1/4 mile or shorter WOT runs (which covers most of us). I don't trust the stock ring gaps to longer pulls due to potential for them to close and hurt the pistons.
01 Z06 with 11 PSI boost making 600 WHP here. 90k miles on it, but since I'm by far not the original owner, not sure how many of those miles are with FI. Evidence suggests it's been ProCharged since 2006 but of course that doesn't indicate how many miles since the SC went on. The car idles great, drives great all day shifting below 2500 RPM if desired, and is pretty darn fast if wound up. I have another stock motor with a centrifugal SC (G37X with Stillen Vortex kit, 405 AWDHP/300 lbs/ft TQ from 3000 to 7500 RPM, good for a 12.966 1/4 mile even with the stock lackluster 7 speed AT) and it's also a well mannered road car with a surprise on top. In my experience it's pretty hard to beat adding a SC to an already decently strong stock motor in terms of driveability and top end performance.
Well I have a 850 rear wheel hp C5 , btr stage 4 cam, 660 btr springs, hardened pushrods, dart pro heads, dormant intake 92mm throttle body , 80lb injectors and stock bottom end , built trans, 3500-4000 yank stall 4.10 gears 84mm billet turbo , 14lbs of boost , even has air conditioning. I drive this car every single day since I built it three years ago, Never ever runs hot , I can drive this car to California and back if I want. No problems at all in stop and go traffic even has an eight point cage with racing seats and harnesses. It is a TRUE STREET CAR!
850 HP, Yank Stall, 4.10 gears. Seems like 1st would be a handful on the street - but if you can hook up, the 1/4 should go by quick. Sounds like a beast! Thanks for commenting!!
I would imagine most of the negative comments are from the Corvette purists who never drove their cars to begin with and only take it to the dealership for service
Not to many negative ones. Some want it stock - which is fine with me. Others think you can have 800 HP on a stock LS engine and beat the daylights out of it and it will hold up just fine - until id doesn't.... Cheers!
I'm catching up on your wonderful videos and agree with most every thing that you have said. Personally I like Pro Chargers but would not install one unless I completely rebuild my LS1, or install a LS3 or LS6 then build either one from the oil pan on up with parts that will handle every day driving AND the occasional track day. I used to race SCCA and Autocrosses with the 1/4 mile thrown in as well. Even on my street car when I build an engine with a cam swap I go all out with stronger internal parts, the heads are also built stronger along with the intake. No I haven't read that many comments by other's but this is my humble opinion. Thanks for another great video.
I’m definitely in for supercharging the C5; However, I wd also go overboard and go ahead and build the entire bottom & top end, plus upgrade the trans, diff, & clutch to be way stronger than necessary simply because I’m not a gambler and reliability is just as important as horsepower and fun! Q: Isn’t there any recourse available to design/build a larger, much more efficient inter cooling system that will handle pretty much anything? Oh, and drivability is a thing too, but like others mentioned, with the right gearing in the diff, that problem can be dealt with pretty well. Thanks for the great videos, I just sub’d!
Sorry for the late response - thanks for the sub and I agree build it up to handle the power level you intend to throw at it. Stock does hold amazingly well to 625 crank HP I must say!
Thanks for for your suggestions, I was hoping to supercharge but one of the main reasons I got this car was to do track days. Guess I just keep upgrading suspension and brakes. Watching this video probably saved me a ton of heart ache and money. Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks for the comment! Down the road, If you are looking for more HP you could always consider having those ring gaps widened and running a low boost setup. 4-5 psi would still add a decent bump in HP. Or go with a heads and cam LS3?
Yep, as a centri blown C6Z owner that’s been through some shit, this all checks out. Every bit is spot on what I’ve experienced right down to stock ring gap🤦♂️...
@@Toys4Life Left the long block unopened and that stock ring gap wasn’t enough for 10 psi and hard driving. I heard from a guy at my local drag strip that ran a 9.9 @ 139 on an NA stock bottom C6Z (ZEROPSI on Instagram?) that the way the coolant flows, cylinder 7 and 8 get the hottest. He changed the flow with external coolant lines. That guys living in 2030. I’ve been down the max effort LS build road before with my old Z28 and if I can’t drive my project to the track never mind every day, I think it’s a waste of money. I like hitting the bendibois too. No 15” conversion and sway bar delete for me. That being said I run a 232 242 on a 116 @ .650 or so with a pair of PRC 285’s and my YSI-B just showed up yesterday. It’s barely tolerable as a daily with my clutch but I should easily make 950 wheel from my 700 I have now on my maxed out Novi 1500. I like the centri blower because it’s not insane until you wind it up. Very linear power. It just goes up till I max out my baby head unit, but not for long.😈
just came across this very enjoyable site. Very much enjoy learning from those with higher car skills than myself , and appreciate that this is not just another channel run by some back yard blowhard struggling from one bolt on to the next, with little understanding of the complexities of modifying interdependent, highly engineered and very complex modern engine systems , just because they seemingly want a side gig on UA-cam and corvettes attract eyeballs. my needs are satisfied with the stock design, I have no desire to add the complexity and expense of a power adder to my stewardship of an old car I don't use much. while I can enjoy a car built only for fun, modifying it to suck even more gas around town is wildly outside of my interests. I bought the used car because of the mechanical strength , aerodynamic sophistication of the design, and the amount of easily available support for an old platform. Keeping old cars on the street is hard enough , having a less popular design just makes things more problematic all around. the available highway milage impressed me, showing me how advanced the LS 1 design was at the time I bought , and resale value was another influence on my buying decision , back when I didn't plan on keeping the car. but primarily I got the car because it was a convertible with enough interior space to where the windshield header didn't block my line of sight to see the traffic signals when stopped. I am a little taller than average, and had enough of bending down to check the red lights when stopped in pretty much every other old sports car I used to run, and every other modern car I sat in, checking for fit before buying, save for the German designs. I didn't want to tangle with the expense and possible supply issues of parts from outside of my american economic base, so now own a corvette. heavy, high powered chassis limited designs are never my first choice in a used car, but it is unique having a design clearly built only for american style road fun. I have long been on the record as a solidly pro-fun guy.
Mate... What is "full boost" for you on a stock bottom end? Like 5 or 6psi max is pretty low and in some other engines you can run without an intercooler like that. What is your full boost on your c5?
@@Toys4Life 12 is quite a high boost for a n/a engine. Sounds good. Didn't know the LS1 could take such boost. Of course depends a lot on what you said, tune and intake temps. Good video!!
Keep in mind I'm on 33% ethanol as well. I was on pump gas 91 for a while but I had to keep the timing pretty conservative. Picked up quite a bit of power by bumping the octane and increasing timing.
I did have about 5 years A&A Supercharger kit in my 99 Vette and stock LS1 + methanol injection. I did standing miles an so on (+ 186mph), nothing problems. 711hp on dyno. Now I have same car but engine in LS2 stroke and pistons are stronger and much more. Now Dyno was 834hp. Reason I change engine was little stupid failure; Roller Lifter was broke. That roller damaged engine so much, so I decided to get new engine. I ordered it from Lingenfelter. I have stock transmission (manual).
Appreciate you sharing your experience. 834 horsepower is pretty insane, but probably a ton of fun! Was that a factory roller lifter or did you put a comp trunion in there, I hear those like to fail even more than the GM ones?
@@Toys4Life It was factory roller. We still dont know failure reason. But life goes on. BTW, I just ordered HPI differential brace trans mount after watching one of your videos. My transmission output to differential shaft just month ago brokes for that reason! It was big job to do, new (used) transmission and differential is now installed.
My 2001 zo6 procharged run 10.01 140 mph!... 6lbs of boost. Going to put more pwr in her looking forward 9s in time winter project. HELLCAT N MUSTANG KILLER!!.....🤣😎
Back in the early 2000s, some of the LS6s have valve spring issues, but I believe that was due to a defect and that's been fixed and probably 99% of them by now. IMO anyways.
I fell in love driving a C7 and C8 on Turo 😍 Unfortunately I also love bang for my buck and it seems buying a non-z06 C5 and adding a supercharger by a professional is my best bet in this inflated economy. Z06 c5 prices are too close to 2014 c7 prices. So that's why I'm going non-z06. Any recommendations for max milage would he appreciated. I'm hearing 2001 -2002 is best first option, followed by 2003-2004. Love your channel!
@Toys4Life I really appreciate the direct reply! This seems to mirror what my research has found. I guess the F55 magnetic suspension tends to have some issues and you would need to program it out with the 03 or use simulators for the 01-02. I'll keep my eye out for an 03 with 75K. Thank you so much! Love your channel and I'm a subscriber 😊
I had the TSP 2.5 LS6 heads with 228R Cam and F.A.S.T 92mm intake. 3000rpm stall and my car ran a 7.50 @ 95mph in the 1/8. Mile. It's extremely streetable and runs better than it should. All forged stroker coming in next 2 weeks. Current combo is 450 rwhp
Great info. I'm kicking around buying a c5 or c6 z06 and would consider modifying or super charging it. Would mildly race it on weekends here and there but wouldn't beat on it.... just wanted to do stuff that legally that would normally get my car impounded.
Buy a C6Z and throw an A&A on it. I unfortunately went with the ECS kit on my C6Z and had 160 IATs by the eighth until I dammed the front and installed meth. Now I’m 140-150 by the quarter. Their intercooler, even though large, is shrouded by the crash structure by at least 60% and I’m not hacking it up. A&A puts theirs right in the grill. I definitely butted the top ring in #7 a few times and eventually pushed the piston through it, but 1,500 miles later and with an oil pan full of piston skirt and ring pack, it still wouldn’t die. It came out running. Anyway you would love it stock on the road course. I did. Once I ventilate my hood and deal with this heat I might give the strip a rest and hit the bendi bois again. A C6Z on boost will hurt a lot of feelings, including some bikes.
your advices are great you sure know what you talking about.. Some people are cheap and go cheap on their build..and the results are cheap..buy the best build the best and you will get the best 👌
I would probably supercharge my stock c5 if it wasn't for the strict rules here in norway, any modification to gain power can void the car insurance if I were to crash. Doing a camswap could be an option as it is highly unlikey that would be noticed, but driveability is high on my list. Probably just going to get a stock Z06 later on
Isn't there a type of insurance company where if you disclose you've added power, they will still insure you. Do they sell 700 horsepower hellcats in Norway? Those crash all the time! Glad to have you as of you are from Norway by the way!
How would a supercharger affect the resale price of a base C5? I'm thinking that having a supercharger would be a turn off for any prospective buyers because: 1) they may think you drove the crap out of it, 2) they think a supercharger might create maintenance issues. At 74 years old, I am only interested in punching the LS say from 30-100 mph; not pulling hole shots. And not very often. I have an automatic trans. Do I need to beef it up? Are valve springs an issue? Suggest any other mods? Thanks. Love your videos
IMO - if you plan to sell you C5 within 5 years, do not modify it. Most like a virgin car. 95% of the enjoyment I get from this is on the street and most of that is from 5mph to 60. Freeway on ramps are lots of fun too. I rarely go over 80 mph. Upgrade Valve springs to LS6 - see EZ how to vid on my channel. Also see vid "will my transmission Break" on my channel. You only live once -if an extra 250 HP to the rear tires sounds appealing to you - then don't wait. Just my 2 cents! Cheers.
Just to give you a pat on the back you have good solid information I've owned four Porsches, my last one was a 944 Turbo with 320 horses at the rear wheels very fast but very unreliable at times not all the time but sometimes, now looking for a C5 I feel the C5 is truly a sports car unlike its earlier predecessors I like a car that handles I'm into twist and turns more than I am a quarter mile, give me some info on how to upgrade the handling of a C5 and it's comparisons to other sports cars like for an example the Porsche 911 how does it compare and handling in your opinion that would be a good subject for me thank you much God bless my Patriot brother
Handling in a 996 is much much more precise and rigid...you can enjoy it better than the c5...untill the m96 engine explodes and then the c5 will come on the first place. Never been in a suspension modded c5 (STREETABLE suspension) but it might be quite nice.
Gota 01Z with 45k km. Looking to add long tub ARH and ECS SC and tune someday soon. Just wanting to get a safe 500 rwhp. Wouldnt want to push it much further without building the engine. Just not sure on what size of headers. I heard the LS6 is good for 600 on stock internals. Although after seeing this video, I may just add headers and a tune and call it a day.
I had a 2002 ZO6 in my shop for the past couple weeks. While there's nothing wrong with the stock C5, going for a couple of test drives in It made me realize just how much I love a boosted c5. You owe to yourself to at least go for a test drive and someone's supercharged c5. I think after you do that your decision will be easy.
I started with CAI and long tube headers, wanted more so I installed a big cam, 3800 stall, and 3.73 gears. Now, years later and having spent well over the price of a centrifugal supercharger kit and making 100whp+ less than a bone stock supercharged LS1, I wish I could go back and just buy a supercharger kit. A SBE LS6 should be perfectly fine at 600whp if you don't hangout above 6,500rpm all day and the tuner isn't brain dead, hell, with an Si trim supercharger on a "safe" tune you would easily reach your goal of 500whp. My 2 cents: don't waste your time and money like I did. You won't even feel a difference in power with headers and a tune.
Can I supercharged my zo6 c5 and use it as a daily driver? I love supercharger but I don't race my car is a weekend driver. I love the sound of the supercharger and knowing I have one will make me feel like a king 🤴
Personally, I feel 500 wheel is the safe bet for LS1 if you plan to drive it a lot and have fun with it and you have a good tune. I have considered doing boost on LS1 but I keep hearing so many horror stories. So is it worth paying $20,000 for the trans am then blowing the motor with bunch of boost. I think nice heads and cam setup would be a lot more fun in the long run.
2004 c5 running rear twin turbos 10 lbs meth injected stock everything except gm performance clutch 675 hp been beating on it for 50,000 mi Lmr sets up c7 with supercharger 850 hp for road racing stock bottom with no issues and easily runs high 9s at 155mph can wait to trade my c5 for one
Years ago (talking early 2000s) the drag racers were all recommending staying under 600whp with the LS1/LS6 blocks. I saw a lot of windowed blocks from rods making unannounced exits. Not sure if that was a tuning issue that has been figured out since? Or if something else has changed to make them hold the power now?
Well now I feel bad for commenting on your other video on why you wouldn’t forge the bottom end, so nice video follow up. I would still rather get a c6 z06 stock or lightly modded for the same price of a c5 plus a supercharger kit. Personally I would get an already stock supercharged b8.5 audi S5 and run the same times with less mile an hour but be in a beautifully comfortable car with of infinite traction, and a world class transmission. Again nice videos, cheers.
@Matt Brad my comment disappeared, let’s try again, thanks for following up. Let’s buy a car, here are all the c5’s within 500 miles that are manual (automatic = kaboom). This is AZ/CA so no east coast rust buckets! $15k - 90k Mikes $16k - 85 k miles $18k - 76k Mikes $22k - 36k Mikes So wow, nothing like buying a 20 year old car with multiple owners, approaching 100k miles, and little known repair history. Let’s buy the middle one at $18k with 76k miles. Now for mods; Supercharger - 6k to $8k Clutch -$1k Tires - $850 (can you trap 125mph on crap tires?) Scan gauge & wideband - $600 Dyno and tune - $600 Valves - $100 Add it up, that’s $27k NO LABOR. With labor, figure 20-30 hours, guessing $3k-$5k. So you are looking at $30-$32k with labor. I found a C6 Z with 90k miles for $29k and a 50k mile one for $35k. So yeah, not 100% there but damn close. In summary you are going to spend almost $30k on a 20 year old used car with almost 100k miles and multiple owners. You get zero return on investment from all these parts. A C6 Z is a future classic and is APPRECIATING as we speak, they just have the valve issues. And you can totally race the C6 Z instead of holding back on the C5. Anyways this reminds me of a buddy who bought a turbo mustang 10 years ago. Clean car, 125 mph trap on a hellion single turbo setup. It was a blast for a few months then KABOOM, since one of his injectors was loosing pressure and it ran lean. Then his $18k high mile mustang turned into a pile of parts, he had to dismantle and part out the car since it was not financially viable to invest in it anymore. This youtube channel is great, I am just not in agreement with the $$$ side of the equation with this plan. If you are never selling the car...why not, have fun. For me C6Z or hell even a Cobra would work. I’d buy the Audi S5...
@Matt Brad I think we are done here. I am taking a conservative route and adding up all the correct parts, you are buying already modified craigslist “specials.” I have nothing nice to say, so good luck in your endeavors.
@Matt Brad you are totally right, buying someone else’s project and doubling the horsepower is a genius move. Why sell yourself short, you could triple the power with some nitrous too.
I'm very surprised the rest of the drivetrain wasn't mentioned. This is one of the BIGGEST reasons. Stock clutch will NOT support a supercharged c5. The stock clutch and clutch master is bad enough already. I've supercharged many vehicles in my life and this is something many people overlook. If your going to supercharge your c5 be ready to upgrade the clutch, replace the clutch master and rebuild the torque tube while in there. That will be another $2k+.
All good points. Except I am on my stock master cyl. I saw no need to replace it. Monster twin disc, and new gm slave work just about like stock. Cheers!
What are your goals? With a stock cam, I'm trapping 130 mph in the quarter mile running e33 fuel that I blend with 91 octane and e85. On 92 octane I was trapping around 125/ 126. If you are going to build a drag car, with a forged rotating assembly, a beefed up drivetrain from a C6, and wanted to trap more than 130mph then yes. Otherwise not necessary in my opinion unless you absolutely have to have the big cam chop sound.
Is supercharging only for the Zo6??? I have a slightly modified convertible. (Stage 4 texas cam/polished heads/ long pipe headers/ bearing all around/ lifters*springs)
@@RCThis I think it's worse, it has higher compression. Ideally for supercharging compression would be even a little bit lower than the LS1. The heads flow a little better though.
For the ppl that live in Georgia or near, call Vengeance Racing if you're serious about adding HP to your Vette or Camaro. They are the best for all your needs and very professional.
I supercharged my C7 Corvette Manual with Edelbrock Stage 1 Canned tune. Feels great but now I am paranoid I'm going to blow the motor. No data illuding to failure, all temps are low. Just now paranoid.
Knock is what will kill it fast. Make sure you are monitoring for it. Then comes too much heat from being at WOT too long (think Texas mile) then comes just too darn much HP. My opinion anyways (:-). I Need to go for a spin in a SC 7 speed manual C7, you don't live in the midwest do you? lol
@@Toys4Life central California, Military VANDENBERG AFB, everything is stock minus the SC. Just pushing the advertised 500whp/500 torque on 91 octane. I think I’m to put back to stock
A heads/cam LS1 is only unbearable to drive on the street when you're in continuous stop/go traffic that barely moves. I know only one nearby city that has that kind of traffic and I know to stay far away from there
I disagree that they are unbearable in stop and go traffic. If you have a solid tune and run a better gear in the diff that driveability factor improves 10 fold. Big cam cars with the right gearing will drive beautifully in local traffic situations. Most guys do heads & cam but keep the 3.42s in the rear. Upgrade to a 4.10 and that surging issue from a cam at low RPMs is eliminated. Plus the exhaust drone in 6th at highway cruise goes away as well. Swap the gear and prepare to kick yourself in the ass for not doing it sooner.
@@gotmylk Since a big cam pushes the torque curve up, I 100% agree with you that a rear gear should be part of the head cam equasion. In fact it should be H&C&G. The annoyance factor is highly subjective - even when the same person is involved. For example, I would absolutely live with a H&C setup for a daily drive at 21. Once I hit about 45, not so much. To each their own for sure! Just don't keep it stock - stock is boring... Cheers.
what if you add a vented hood, oil cooler, maybe a better radiator, and basically the works for other cooling? would that help the stock bottom end by chance? or is it still just surgery time before or after the race track with an ls6?
Combustion chamber temps if hot enough could close the piston ring gap and destroy the piston. Ring manufactures require wider gaps for forced induction and nitrous engines. That having been said - few have any problems with this issue at 600 crank hp for 1/4 mile blasts or less. Not sure what distance would cause an issue - don't want to find out with my car....
That's a good question. If I wanted a thousand horsepower I would start with a 2008 and newer C6 because of the more bullet roof manual transmission drivetrain.
I had a C5 I swapped LS1 for LS3 supercharged stage 2 cam with an A and A corvette supercharger heads ported implode with a McLeod double clutch the last time I had it Dino. It went 6 73 horsepower at the rear wheel then I changed the fuel injectors 285 pounder's mytuner did a street tune and that son-of-a-b**** has run faster than that ever ran before I know it's pulling at least 7 plus horsepower
potential customers of a complete super/Turbo conversion should first of all get a true comprehensive estimate from a reputable speed shop. That alone will put things in perspective and make all the other con’s redundant. Yes, you can do it at home. But you better have a few spare engines kicking around. Just saying.....
Agreed - Definitely find your shop and get a quote if you're going to have them do it. Also, many people are qualified to install it at home but not too many are able to tune it. Knowing your limits, work within them and you'll be fine!
@@Toys4Life it’s refreshing to come across knowledgeable people that give good advice, not just selling stuff with unrealistic expectations.. Yes, proper tuning is absolutely essential. In my past life I have driven a souped up 930 turbo Porsche( I lived in Europe ) and did many long distance Banzai Runs on the Autobahn . The wear and tear on the engine was significant and basically required an engine overhaul every year. Cheers
QUestion: I just got offered a Supercharged C5 with only 100.000km. In Norway a SC has to be approved and written in to the cars papers. So what im wondering is if its easy to change belt to run with or without the SC? What wold i have to do to disconnect it from running and being able to run the car normaly without boost? Im just wondring how mutch work it might be. Thanks for a great channel. Been watching for years but today i subscribed :-)
Quite a bit. Remove the supercharger head unit and bracked, reinstall the factory tensioner and belt and also remove the tube going from the MAF sensor to the intercooler and try to find a modified intake system that would hopefully fit without removing the intercooler. I can't imagine it would be worth the effort. I believe the A&A kit has the Californa Air Resource Board C.A.R.B approval - which is pretty strict - but is sounds like that does not matter in Norway. Thanks for the sub and good luck with your decision!
@Toys4Life C5 I watched your vidio of it and what you went through it turned out nice you do nice work I'm a mechanic..I will leave work like that for my 69 camaro where I have room to work c.5 is too tight
Or you could gap your rings properly and not have to pray as much. For an EGT gauge to work properly with no guessing, wouldn't you really need a probe on each cylinder (like on a superflow engine Dyno) to make sure you catch any individual cylinder that's running hot due to airflow discrepancies or injector flow discrepancies? I'm kind of looking forward to owning an electric power plant, I'm thinking a lot less guess work and praying going on there. Just kidding, this kind of stuff is what makes cars fun!
Speaking about stock block stock bottom end... Those reasons are exactly the reason to spend the extra $2000 and rebuild the bottom end and gap the rings accordingly.....
You could do that but - 550RWHP, VAST majority will be fine. Total rebuild of SBE and Run it at 550RWHP or less, vast majority will be fine. That is the conclusion I reached after researching this a year or so prior to pulling the trigger 3 years ago. I am at 525 RWHP for the past 2 seasons and so far so good. Go with 600RWHP and up (or run the Texas mile), I would personally go forged bottom end with proper ring gaps. Just my opinion.
@Matt Brad I don't, but I want to give it a whirl sometime. For that small of a course, I think a supercharger is probably wee bit overkill.. what do you think?
@Matt Brad The z adds 2% to the front from the back compared to the coupe. If you go with an A&A if I did my math right, it adds another 1% to the front.I wouldn't think that it would make a ton of difference, but maybe somebody who's done it will chime in.
You missed a very big reason not to add a supercharger or modify your c5 for power. Epa is aggressively attacking the aftermarket car industry and pushing to make it illegal to modify production cars, even for off road use. Please get the word out and let people know about the rpm act.
You raise a good point and issue that all car guys should be aware of. I have sympathy for cars and gas engines, but some of the diesel stuff is questionable in my mind.
If doing the supercharger cost 3K instead of 6K I'd do it. Thing is, I only paid $3,900.00 for my 99 FRC with 40 K miles on it. However, it was sort of .... totaled.
I’m curious about higher mileage(100k+) engines? Assuming it’s a well maintained engine would it be worth boosting or just enjoying until it’s retired and swapping out for newer engine then building it.
If it's got good oil pressure, good compression, and doesn't have too much piston slap on cold start up, I'd go for it. Having said that there's absolutely no guarantees with any LS engine how long it might last boosted. I think you could go 200 extra horsepower and probably be safe if those conditions are met.
In addition to or instead of. I think nitrous is a pain in the ass personally unless it's a dedicated drag car or you're really really into it and motivated to keep the bottle full and warm and purged and you know.
When on local roads I do the speed limit. 45...55... On hwy I do 70 ..or 65 I do not speed ...in 40 years of Driving I only got 1 ticket.. And I was doing 67 on a 55 limit road....I don't think having a supercharger will kill me...just saying 😌
Hmmmmm. A&A or ECS kit yields 200 HP and installed and tuned for $7100. That equals $35.50 per HP. Where do you think you can find 200 extra ultra streetable and reliable (that leaves NOS out) for under $35.50 per HP?
@@Toys4Life And without an entire valvetrain upgrade( springs, pushrods and rocker trunnions) you are left with a ticking time bomb waiting to, well, you know That scenario. And if that doesn't kill your stock LS the borderline cooling system surely will if you lead foot the car much, and they all do. So that's another 2 grand to make it survivable. Plus the stock Dampener is notorious for failing in stock rigs, another couple hundred, And that exceeds for most guys the cost of the original car. Some bargain.
I respectfully disagree 100%. The vast majority of people that have 550 rear wheel horsepower experience no valve train issues provided the springs are upgraded for the extra RPM and to still close against the resistance of the boost on the intake valve. You're right about the dampener though, the GM ones will fail even in 100% stock vehicle owned by a little old lady. It's funny because I get the brunt of a lot of people telling me that I'm babying the LS1 and that it easily handle 700 rear wheel horsepower. I'm not so sure about that level to risk it. Plus I'm plenty happy with 550 on the street for the past 3 years. Hopefully some others will chime in then have been down this road and let us know what their experience has been.
@@Toys4Life Not arguing with the fun factor at all but even you admit it takes more than "the kit" to make it reliable. And it's still a huge outlay for a tire fryer that loses it superb handling ability with 50lbs hanging over the right front axle. So we agree to disagree. Take care, good channel.
@@richknudsen5781 You make good points to consider and like you said - lets agree to disagree on some of the points. That having been said, I would absolutely add a few more mods to the base kit (and I have) to make it more reliable at higher HP level. Namely I changed out my crappy GM balancer and swapped in the LS6 valve springs to handle the higher RPM and boost on the intake valves. Since you brought up the weight balance just now, CHECK THIS OUT: 1. Most agree the C5 Z06 is the best handling C5 - Right? 2. The C5 Z06 has lighter titanium mufflers behind the drive wheels which makes the car lighter but also takes away from the rear weight. 3. The A&A kit adds about 70lbs to the front of the car. This changes the Front/Rear weight distribution on the coupe from the stock 51%/49% to 52%/48% - indeed making it a little more nose heavy as you pointed out for a 1% shift. 4. However, The National Corvette Museum lists the C5 Z06 as 53%/47%. Does that mean the A&A kit makes the C5 Coupe a better balanced sports car than the C5 Z06? I thought most want it closer to 50/50. I don't think 1% is a big enough difference but it is interesting when comparing the supercharged coupe, stock coupe and Z06.. Source: www.corvettemuseum.org/learn/about-corvette/corvette-specs/2002-corvette-specs/
In my personal experiences it's not a matter of if the stock springs, piston rings and or pistons will fail it's a matter of when. I had a piston shatter in a mild LS1 build (stage 2 heads and 228/228/112 cam) due to one missed shift from 4th to 3rd. I missed 5th... shifted back into 3rd at high RPM...floated a valve and grenaded a piston. This was in an NA car only making 398rwhp 390rwtq. Driver error was the cause, but the springs, piston and rings in stock LS1s are weak points with very little room for driver error at high rpms. Changed my lower shift box and forged my internals to reduce shift errors & mitigate catastrophic failure events when my driving sucks. I've had two high rpm shift errors since that time (since 2008) but engine is still tip top.
@@Toys4Life it was over 6500 but I'm really not sure how high it screamed. It happened so fast. I was racing my buddy on his Vmax 1200 at the time. I engaged the clutch immediately but it was too late. Motor instantly sounded like a spoon in a blender. It was possibly the worst sound in the world.
@@Toys4Life my old box was warn out and sloppy. So I just went with a take off OEM C6 box. Shifts are much more true now and cost me $40. I've been running a B&M ripper up top for many years..
For my Street racers, watching this video. If you are gonna build this car to run to the top of 4th get the T-trim Vortech or the D1SC Procharger. Ur gonna waste ur money buying the P1SC or V3si Pay now or pay again later 😂😂
@@Toys4Life Yea I'm with you there, Rear probably safe if you are just roll racing but your MM6 is gonna explode eventually once you get over 500 wheel. If you bolt on a super charger to a 4L60E with no upgrades you are gonna have a bad time thats for sure 😂😂
The Z06 being light in the rear disrupts the F/R bias just as much or more than the addition of a supercharger to a non Z06 car. Most get 500+ wheel HP out of the SBE with no issues. Go to 700+ and get greedy - bad things happen...
I'm not sure I understand your question. A supercharger is different than a turbocharger. Superchargers are belt driven, turbochargers are exhausted driven.
Um, if you use all the power for too long with stock gap rings I think it just may tear the top of a piston off. 1/4 mile seems to be fine for most....
I would never do anything more than a cold air intake and a performance exhaust. I have had 2 c5s. a 2003 and a 2004. I still have the 2004. They are fast enough and plenty of fun around town. The only event I do is Autocross. A stock C5 is great for autocross. A big reason for not doing upgrades is that most people will not buy a modified Corvette. They don't trust it. The resale goes down not up.
That's true about the resale, I never modify a vehicle I don't intend to keep for an extended period of time. If I was doing autocross, I might do gears and that's about it.
@@Toys4Life Have you ever driven a C7 Stingray. I have a C7 Stingray Convertible. I autocross it about 3 or 4 times year. My C5 is a Z51. It handles well. However, the steering handling and performance on the C7 is vastly superior. Vastly
@@tbn334 I have not, but I am aware that and see five and six are pretty close but c7 has a pretty decided edge in slalom and skid pad which would also obviously equate to better autocross/road race. Bring it over I'd love to go for a ride!
Yep I swapped the LS1 for a LS6 and then did a full build up for my supercharged application it’s serviced me very well for years and have no drive-ability issues.
Over the years I hear one bad Supercharging story for every 10 like yours! Thanks for taking the time to comment!
What's the full build up? Rebuilt LS6 with forged parts? Of course that's going to be able to handle decent boost. This vid is about the stock bottom end.
Nice! I believe it!
@L.R. POPE it's still a high compression motor that wasn't built for forced induction and would greatly depend on how you drive it.
I used to worry a lot about that a lot. For example the GM 3800 Series 2 engine is 8.5 to one compression. I'm surprised though, the LS1 at 10.2 to1 runs extremely well supercharged and intercooled.
Forced induction is like anything else. Don't cut corners and you will have a great outcome.
Thanks for your comments, I run my 98 C5 the same way you described, I take it to the drag strip and run the quarter mile. Mine is dyno at 648 hp at the rear wheels and 600 ft lb toque. I have 317 ported heads and upgraded pushrod springs, fast 92 intake, headers, Texas Speed 224/228 cam, Innovators West hormonic balancer, and LS2 Throttle Body with a stock bottom end.
That's pretty cool! What RPM is that 648 at?
@@Toys4Life Max Power @5.87 Max Torque @5.38
@@davidhayden5938 Sorry, I am not tracking.. Is that 5870 RPM and 5380 RPM?
@@Toys4Life Yes
I have a 2004 Z06 with a Procharger installed in 2005. I've owned it 8 years and have put many miles of road course track time on the stock bottom end. Always cool it off at maximum 270 degrees oil, water never over 220 degrees even on a hot summer day in SC.
Appreciate the comment, I love to hear sincere firsthand experience. Glad it's held up for you!
im looking at purchasing a 99 supercharged corvette, the owners says it only goes a little above 220 on very hot days with ac on, should i stay away from it?
No, supercharged c5s don't run hot unless you're going wide open throttle, but then usually there's enough wind to cool it down m. Plus, most of these 20-year-old cars need their radiator and condenser thoroughly clean so it actually can flow good air through them.
@@Toys4Life so u think it could be it needs a good radiator cleaning would solve that? Car is a 99' and has 130,000 miles, he is asking 17,000.00 I'm thinking of making a lower offer, what do you think?
For Minnesota market, that seems hi to me. You really have to evaluate it versus others in your market area. Or how far you'd be willing to drive out to look at one.
Thanks for the info about superchargers (both pros and cons). Hopefully I will get a C5 soon, but if I do it will probably just get airflow mods and tuning. I want to drive a lot and take long roadtrips, so minimal impact on reliability will be my goal.
Agree with pretty much everything. I currently run a mild BTR 2 with full CNC machined LS6 Heads and Longtubes, on a dyno dynamics (mustang type) dyno it put down over 450 rwhp and 425 rwtq at 6400 rpms (dual valve spring, hardened push rods etc) and its very streetable, however, and you mentioned it, its all about that TUNE....I would advise a very deliberate dyno tune (not mail order). Very nice car btw.
Having owned my 99' FRC over 10 years I've had ample opportunity to upgrade the power but I made a choice. While it has the potential to be more challenging to the newer models there are some things I would lose if I were to boost. The main one is my driving record, I know full well if I had 200 more HP it wouldn't be long and my license would be full of points. With a cam and heads I'd have a rough idle to deal with along with the loss of awesome fuel mileage. I just really like the car the way it is and don't want to lose some of the things it has stock. My C5 is a daily driver and the best way for me to enjoy the car is to keep it that way. But I love watching you modders out there.
I’m considering getting a C5 coupe as my one-car daily driver, including Wisconsin winters on dedicated winter tires. I can only afford one vehicle and as long I stay on plowed roads and use winter/snow tires I’ll be just fine.
So as much as I’d love a driving a boosted LS1 (currently driving a single-turbo I-6, I’m familiar with street driving with small-intercooler forced induction) I don’t think the cost makes sense for me because an NA C5 will be better for hard and fast road (should be on a track) driving and less likely to have problems in the cold.
Well said, here I am looking at supercharging options for the Z06 I don't even own.....yet.
I'm guilty of that sort of thing as well! Thinking about all kinds of future dreams before I take the plunge!
The amount of build sheets I have in google docs for cars I don't own...yet...is staggering lol
The issues with supercharging a 1997-2001 LS1 'Vette, Camaro, Firechicken, etc. is the well-documented #2 compression ring issue for those years. See revised GM Service Bulletin #01-06-01-023A from June 19, 2001 regarding higher than expected oil consumption, replace rings and engine valley cover, VIN Codes G, S, RPOs LS1, LS6. (Valley cover replacement revised to include ONLY LS6). The excessive oil consumption can be as great as 1-quart per 400-600 miles! Apparently, GM revised the piston rings for the 2002-2004 C5s. Thankfully, my 2001 G Code C5 DOES NOT have an oil consumption issue, but, if I was to install a supercharger, it might develop one. I'm not willing to take that gamble. I'll simply enjoy the car as it is.
The supercharger pressure holds the rings in place better so they don't "flutter" at higher RPM's.... No, I just made that up. I get your point adding a bunch of HP seems scary - I just decided after years of seeing others have over 500HP I wanted to join the fun too. That was 5 years ago. Most LS1s hold up quite well, but a bad tune or going after too much HP will end the fun...
Your channel has definitely inspired me to Supercharge my 2001 Vette. I'm slowly (painfully slow) saving to buy all the components to do this the right way.
For me your last comments on why you should supercharg your Vette hit the nail on the head, exactly. ( Funny you should mention those uppity Mustangs.)
I actually am starting to like the Mustangs a little bit - but they are the most fun to SMOKE....
@@Toys4Life I pretty much like anything with that V8 rumble. Prior to purchasing the Corvette I was also looking at older Camaros and Mustangs as options, I even ran across two V8 converted Fieros, actually called the seller to ask questions but it sold already.
I found my C5 at the right time for the right price.
Thanks for your videos, they're the blueprints for my future supercharged Corvette.
Forged ls6 here. V-3 t trim. No meth. Cam boltons made 656hp on 10lbs
I never looked back ever since!! 👌🏻👌🏻
Did you just buy a texas speed long block - or have your local speed shop bore/hone and install a forged rotating assembly? 91 octane - or E85?
I do agree with you 110 percent,I own a c5 ls1.stock, I have been thinking of getting it supercharge,but after listening to you comments you just make a lot of common sense, the bottom end and top end must match the supercharger strength,thank you,
I think the SBE is strong enough for 525 RWHP for 1/4 mile or shorter WOT runs (which covers most of us). I don't trust the stock ring gaps to longer pulls due to potential for them to close and hurt the pistons.
01 Z06 with 11 PSI boost making 600 WHP here. 90k miles on it, but since I'm by far not the original owner, not sure how many of those miles are with FI. Evidence suggests it's been ProCharged since 2006 but of course that doesn't indicate how many miles since the SC went on. The car idles great, drives great all day shifting below 2500 RPM if desired, and is pretty darn fast if wound up. I have another stock motor with a centrifugal SC (G37X with Stillen Vortex kit, 405 AWDHP/300 lbs/ft TQ from 3000 to 7500 RPM, good for a 12.966 1/4 mile even with the stock lackluster 7 speed AT) and it's also a well mannered road car with a surprise on top. In my experience it's pretty hard to beat adding a SC to an already decently strong stock motor in terms of driveability and top end performance.
Testify!!
You have the exact color way & chrome rims I'm looking for to buy a C5 Corvette.
Are you looking for supercharged as well?
@@Toys4Life No, from what your video highlights: I'd want something more reliable.
@RED-WEAPON 5 years, no issues ( so far ) except for traction problems sometimes!!!
Well I have a 850 rear wheel hp C5 , btr stage 4 cam, 660 btr springs, hardened pushrods, dart pro heads, dormant intake 92mm throttle body , 80lb injectors and stock bottom end , built trans, 3500-4000 yank stall 4.10 gears 84mm billet turbo , 14lbs of boost , even has air conditioning. I drive this car every single day since I built it three years ago, Never ever runs hot , I can drive this car to California and back if I want. No problems at all in stop and go traffic even has an eight point cage with racing seats and harnesses. It is a TRUE STREET CAR!
850 HP, Yank Stall, 4.10 gears. Seems like 1st would be a handful on the street - but if you can hook up, the 1/4 should go by quick. Sounds like a beast! Thanks for commenting!!
I would imagine most of the negative comments are from the Corvette purists who never drove their cars to begin with and only take it to the dealership for service
Not to many negative ones. Some want it stock - which is fine with me. Others think you can have 800 HP on a stock LS engine and beat the daylights out of it and it will hold up just fine - until id doesn't.... Cheers!
I'm catching up on your wonderful videos and agree with most every thing that you have said. Personally I like Pro Chargers but would not install one unless I completely rebuild my LS1, or install a LS3 or LS6 then build either one from the oil pan on up with parts that will handle every day driving AND the occasional track day. I used to race SCCA and Autocrosses with the 1/4 mile thrown in as well. Even on my street car when I build an engine with a cam swap I go all out with stronger internal parts, the heads are also built stronger along with the intake. No I haven't read that many comments by other's but this is my humble opinion. Thanks for another great video.
I’m definitely in for supercharging the C5; However, I wd also go overboard and go ahead and build the entire bottom & top end, plus upgrade the trans, diff, & clutch to be way stronger than necessary simply because I’m not a gambler and reliability is just as important as horsepower and fun! Q: Isn’t there any recourse available to design/build a larger, much more efficient inter cooling system that will handle pretty much anything? Oh, and drivability is a thing too, but like others mentioned, with the right gearing in the diff, that problem can be dealt with pretty well. Thanks for the great videos, I just sub’d!
Sorry for the late response - thanks for the sub and I agree build it up to handle the power level you intend to throw at it. Stock does hold amazingly well to 625 crank HP I must say!
Thanks for for your suggestions, I was hoping to supercharge but one of the main reasons I got this car was to do track days. Guess I just keep upgrading suspension and brakes. Watching this video probably saved me a ton of heart ache and money. Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks for the comment! Down the road, If you are looking for more HP you could always consider having those ring gaps widened and running a low boost setup. 4-5 psi would still add a decent bump in HP. Or go with a heads and cam LS3?
Yep, as a centri blown C6Z owner that’s been through some shit, this all checks out. Every bit is spot on what I’ve experienced right down to stock ring gap🤦♂️...
Did you have an issue with your ring gaps- or did you modify them?
@@Toys4Life Left the long block unopened and that stock ring gap wasn’t enough for 10 psi and hard driving. I heard from a guy at my local drag strip that ran a 9.9 @ 139 on an NA stock bottom C6Z (ZEROPSI on Instagram?) that the way the coolant flows, cylinder 7 and 8 get the hottest. He changed the flow with external coolant lines. That guys living in 2030.
I’ve been down the max effort LS build road before with my old Z28 and if I can’t drive my project to the track never mind every day, I think it’s a waste of money. I like hitting the bendibois too. No 15” conversion and sway bar delete for me. That being said I run a 232 242 on a 116 @ .650 or so with a pair of PRC 285’s and my YSI-B just showed up yesterday. It’s barely tolerable as a daily with my clutch but I should easily make 950 wheel from my 700 I have now on my maxed out Novi 1500.
I like the centri blower because it’s not insane until you wind it up. Very linear power. It just goes up till I max out my baby head unit, but not for long.😈
just came across this very enjoyable site. Very much enjoy learning from those with higher car skills than myself , and appreciate that this is not just another channel run by some back yard blowhard struggling from one bolt on to the next, with little understanding of the complexities of modifying interdependent, highly engineered and very complex modern engine systems , just because they seemingly want a side gig on UA-cam and corvettes attract eyeballs.
my needs are satisfied with the stock design, I have no desire to add the complexity and expense of a power adder to my stewardship of an old car I don't use much. while I can enjoy a car built only for fun, modifying it to suck even more gas around town is wildly outside of my interests. I bought the used car because of the mechanical strength , aerodynamic sophistication of the design, and the amount of easily available support for an old platform. Keeping old cars on the street is hard enough , having a less popular design just makes things more problematic all around.
the available highway milage impressed me, showing me how advanced the LS 1 design was at the time I bought , and resale value was another influence on my buying decision , back when I didn't plan on keeping the car. but primarily I got the car because it was a convertible with enough interior space to where the windshield header didn't block my line of sight to see the traffic signals when stopped.
I am a little taller than average, and had enough of bending down to check the red lights when stopped in pretty much every other old sports car I used to run, and every other modern car I sat in, checking for fit before buying, save for the German designs. I didn't want to tangle with the expense and possible supply issues of parts from outside of my american economic base, so now own a corvette. heavy, high powered chassis limited designs are never my first choice in a used car, but it is unique having a design clearly built only for american style road fun. I have long been on the record as a solidly pro-fun guy.
Thanks for the comment!
Mate... What is "full boost" for you on a stock bottom end? Like 5 or 6psi max is pretty low and in some other engines you can run without an intercooler like that. What is your full boost on your c5?
Around 12. Stock heads cams exhaust. Might be less with headers and a longer duration higher lift cam .
@@Toys4Life 12 is quite a high boost for a n/a engine. Sounds good. Didn't know the LS1 could take such boost. Of course depends a lot on what you said, tune and intake temps. Good video!!
Keep in mind I'm on 33% ethanol as well. I was on pump gas 91 for a while but I had to keep the timing pretty conservative. Picked up quite a bit of power by bumping the octane and increasing timing.
@@Toys4Life that's the best way to protect the engine. Meth injection on boost might work good as well. Glad you did things right!! 👍🏼👍🏼
Great vid. Most folks don't consider most of those things. Hopefully you've saved alot of heartache!
Thanks SV!
Love the work , I’m new to c-5 world you’ve been a great help
I did have about 5 years A&A Supercharger kit in my 99 Vette and stock LS1 + methanol injection. I did standing miles an so on (+ 186mph), nothing problems. 711hp on dyno. Now I have same car but engine in LS2 stroke and pistons are stronger and much more. Now Dyno was 834hp.
Reason I change engine was little stupid failure; Roller Lifter was broke. That roller damaged engine so much, so I decided to get new engine. I ordered it from Lingenfelter. I have stock transmission (manual).
Appreciate you sharing your experience. 834 horsepower is pretty insane, but probably a ton of fun! Was that a factory roller lifter or did you put a comp trunion in there, I hear those like to fail even more than the GM ones?
@@Toys4Life It was factory roller. We still dont know failure reason. But life goes on. BTW, I just ordered HPI differential brace trans mount after watching one of your videos. My transmission output to differential shaft just month ago brokes for that reason! It was big job to do, new (used) transmission and differential is now installed.
Nice, it might need a couple little tweaks but overall it's a great piece and firms things up quite a bit back there!
@@Toys4Life i could send few pictures of my car, e-mail maybe?
Thanks for the info!
My 2001 zo6 procharged run 10.01 140 mph!... 6lbs of boost. Going to put more pwr in her looking forward 9s in time winter project. HELLCAT N MUSTANG KILLER!!.....🤣😎
Beast.
Main reason I would not supercharge a C5 is factory weak valve springs that can break under any situation.
Back in the early 2000s, some of the LS6s have valve spring issues, but I believe that was due to a defect and that's been fixed and probably 99% of them by now. IMO anyways.
I fell in love driving a C7 and C8 on Turo 😍 Unfortunately I also love bang for my buck and it seems buying a non-z06 C5 and adding a supercharger by a professional is my best bet in this inflated economy.
Z06 c5 prices are too close to 2014 c7 prices. So that's why I'm going non-z06.
Any recommendations for max milage would he appreciated. I'm hearing 2001 -2002 is best first option, followed by 2003-2004.
Love your channel!
2003 with 75,000 is the sweet spot. IMO. But you have to make sure it's a very good sound mechanical condition.
@Toys4Life I really appreciate the direct reply! This seems to mirror what my research has found. I guess the F55 magnetic suspension tends to have some issues and you would need to program it out with the 03 or use simulators for the 01-02. I'll keep my eye out for an 03 with 75K. Thank you so much! Love your channel and I'm a subscriber 😊
I had the TSP 2.5 LS6 heads with 228R Cam and F.A.S.T 92mm intake. 3000rpm stall and my car ran a 7.50 @ 95mph in the 1/8. Mile. It's extremely streetable and runs better than it should. All forged stroker coming in next 2 weeks. Current combo is 450 rwhp
Did you get it back together and on the road?
Great info. I'm kicking around buying a c5 or c6 z06 and would consider modifying or super charging it. Would mildly race it on weekends here and there but wouldn't beat on it.... just wanted to do stuff that legally that would normally get my car impounded.
Buy a C6Z and throw an A&A on it. I unfortunately went with the ECS kit on my C6Z and had 160 IATs by the eighth until I dammed the front and installed meth. Now I’m 140-150 by the quarter. Their intercooler, even though large, is shrouded by the crash structure by at least 60% and I’m not hacking it up. A&A puts theirs right in the grill.
I definitely butted the top ring in #7 a few times and eventually pushed the piston through it, but 1,500 miles later and with an oil pan full of piston skirt and ring pack, it still wouldn’t die. It came out running.
Anyway you would love it stock on the road course. I did. Once I ventilate my hood and deal with this heat I might give the strip a rest and hit the bendi bois again.
A C6Z on boost will hurt a lot of feelings, including some bikes.
Sir....you certainly know your stuff. Great info. Thank you !
Thank you, I appreciate that!
your advices are great you sure know what you talking about..
Some people are cheap and go cheap on their build..and the results are cheap..buy the best build the best and you will get the best 👌
Just make sure you don't exceed your parts ability to make HP and you should be OK. Thanks for the kind words!
I would probably supercharge my stock c5 if it wasn't for the strict rules here in norway, any modification to gain power can void the car insurance if I were to crash. Doing a camswap could be an option as it is highly unlikey that would be noticed, but driveability is high on my list. Probably just going to get a stock Z06 later on
Isn't there a type of insurance company where if you disclose you've added power, they will still insure you. Do they sell 700 horsepower hellcats in Norway? Those crash all the time! Glad to have you as of you are from Norway by the way!
I’m thinking about to super charged my 2003 C5 Z06 I would like to have 550 horsepower under the hood or pro charged it
Mine is an 03 LS1 with about 525RWHP. You would love it! (I am pretty sure)
Bad Ideal
I make that witt my e85 ls1 v3 procharger
How would a supercharger affect the resale price of a base C5? I'm thinking that having a supercharger would be a turn off for any prospective buyers because: 1) they may think you drove the crap out of it, 2) they think a supercharger might create maintenance issues. At 74 years old, I am only interested in punching the LS say from 30-100 mph; not pulling hole shots. And not very often. I have an automatic trans. Do I need to beef it up? Are valve springs an issue? Suggest any other mods? Thanks. Love your videos
IMO - if you plan to sell you C5 within 5 years, do not modify it. Most like a virgin car. 95% of the enjoyment I get from this is on the street and most of that is from 5mph to 60. Freeway on ramps are lots of fun too. I rarely go over 80 mph. Upgrade Valve springs to LS6 - see EZ how to vid on my channel. Also see vid "will my transmission Break" on my channel. You only live once -if an extra 250 HP to the rear tires sounds appealing to you - then don't wait. Just my 2 cents! Cheers.
Supercharging is definitely for me! Any power mod takes away life of your engine, but for some it's worth it.
Totally agree!
Just to give you a pat on the back you have good solid information I've owned four Porsches, my last one was a 944 Turbo with 320 horses at the rear wheels very fast but very unreliable at times not all the time but sometimes, now looking for a C5 I feel the C5 is truly a sports car unlike its earlier predecessors I like a car that handles I'm into twist and turns more than I am a quarter mile, give me some info on how to upgrade the handling of a C5 and it's comparisons to other sports cars like for an example the Porsche 911 how does it compare and handling in your opinion that would be a good subject for me thank you much God bless my Patriot brother
Handling in a 996 is much much more precise and rigid...you can enjoy it better than the c5...untill the m96 engine explodes and then the c5 will come on the first place. Never been in a suspension modded c5 (STREETABLE suspension) but it might be quite nice.
Gota 01Z with 45k km. Looking to add long tub ARH and ECS SC and tune someday soon. Just wanting to get a safe 500 rwhp. Wouldnt want to push it much further without building the engine. Just not sure on what size of headers. I heard the LS6 is good for 600 on stock internals.
Although after seeing this video, I may just add headers and a tune and call it a day.
I had a 2002 ZO6 in my shop for the past couple weeks. While there's nothing wrong with the stock C5, going for a couple of test drives in It made me realize just how much I love a boosted c5. You owe to yourself to at least go for a test drive and someone's supercharged c5. I think after you do that your decision will be easy.
I started with CAI and long tube headers, wanted more so I installed a big cam, 3800 stall, and 3.73 gears. Now, years later and having spent well over the price of a centrifugal supercharger kit and making 100whp+ less than a bone stock supercharged LS1, I wish I could go back and just buy a supercharger kit.
A SBE LS6 should be perfectly fine at 600whp if you don't hangout above 6,500rpm all day and the tuner isn't brain dead, hell, with an Si trim supercharger on a "safe" tune you would easily reach your goal of 500whp. My 2 cents: don't waste your time and money like I did. You won't even feel a difference in power with headers and a tune.
I got a C7 Stingray and have watched some of your videos. Very informative & applicable to a C7 IMO. Great video, you got a new subscriber. 👍
Appreciate the kind words and the SUB! Thank you!
Can I supercharged my zo6 c5 and use it as a daily driver?
I love supercharger but I don't race my car is a weekend driver. I love the sound of the supercharger and knowing I have one will make me feel like a king 🤴
I would.
Personally, I feel 500 wheel is the safe bet for LS1 if you plan to drive it a lot and have fun with it and you have a good tune. I have considered doing boost on LS1 but I keep hearing so many horror stories. So is it worth paying $20,000 for the trans am then blowing the motor with bunch of boost. I think nice heads and cam setup would be a lot more fun in the long run.
I haven't experienced or seen people having problems with 500 horse supercharged LS ones.
2004 c5 running rear twin turbos 10 lbs meth injected stock everything except gm performance clutch 675 hp been beating on it for 50,000 mi Lmr sets up c7 with supercharger 850 hp for road racing stock bottom with no issues and easily runs high 9s at 155mph can wait to trade my c5 for one
Sweet.
What would you recommend is the best engine upgrade for occasional track days? This is for a 01 C5 Base
Ah yes, The occasional encounter with the mustang HAHA!!
I wanted to race him....
Years ago (talking early 2000s) the drag racers were all recommending staying under 600whp with the LS1/LS6 blocks. I saw a lot of windowed blocks from rods making unannounced exits. Not sure if that was a tuning issue that has been figured out since? Or if something else has changed to make them hold the power now?
Maybe from too many people running over 6,500 RPM? I'm not sure what the limit is but some of them will definitely let go closer to 7, 000
Well now I feel bad for commenting on your other video on why you wouldn’t forge the bottom end, so nice video follow up.
I would still rather get a c6 z06 stock or lightly modded for the same price of a c5 plus a supercharger kit. Personally I would get an already stock supercharged b8.5 audi S5 and run the same times with less mile an hour but be in a beautifully comfortable car with of infinite traction, and a world class transmission. Again nice videos, cheers.
Nice car for sure but apples to oranges IMO.
@Matt Brad sure show me how my math is wrong? Use examples and numbers, I dare you.
@Matt Brad my comment disappeared, let’s try again, thanks for following up.
Let’s buy a car, here are all the c5’s within 500 miles that are manual (automatic = kaboom). This is AZ/CA so no east coast rust buckets!
$15k - 90k Mikes
$16k - 85 k miles
$18k - 76k Mikes
$22k - 36k Mikes
So wow, nothing like buying a 20 year old car with multiple owners, approaching 100k miles, and little known repair history. Let’s buy the middle one at $18k with 76k miles. Now for mods;
Supercharger - 6k to $8k
Clutch -$1k
Tires - $850 (can you trap 125mph on crap tires?)
Scan gauge & wideband - $600
Dyno and tune - $600
Valves - $100
Add it up, that’s $27k NO LABOR. With labor, figure 20-30 hours, guessing $3k-$5k. So you are looking at $30-$32k with labor.
I found a C6 Z with 90k miles for $29k and a 50k mile one for $35k. So yeah, not 100% there but damn close.
In summary you are going to spend almost $30k on a 20 year old used car with almost 100k miles and multiple owners. You get zero return on investment from all these parts. A C6 Z is a future classic and is APPRECIATING as we speak, they just have the valve issues. And you can totally race the C6 Z instead of holding back on the C5.
Anyways this reminds me of a buddy who bought a turbo mustang 10 years ago. Clean car, 125 mph trap on a hellion single turbo setup. It was a blast for a few months then KABOOM, since one of his injectors was loosing pressure and it ran lean. Then his $18k high mile mustang turned into a pile of parts, he had to dismantle and part out the car since it was not financially viable to invest in it anymore.
This youtube channel is great, I am just not in agreement with the $$$ side of the equation with this plan. If you are never selling the car...why not, have fun. For me C6Z or hell even a Cobra would work. I’d buy the Audi S5...
@Matt Brad I think we are done here. I am taking a conservative route and adding up all the correct parts, you are buying already modified craigslist “specials.” I have nothing nice to say, so good luck in your endeavors.
@Matt Brad you are totally right, buying someone else’s project and doubling the horsepower is a genius move. Why sell yourself short, you could triple the power with some nitrous too.
I'm very surprised the rest of the drivetrain wasn't mentioned. This is one of the BIGGEST reasons. Stock clutch will NOT support a supercharged c5. The stock clutch and clutch master is bad enough already. I've supercharged many vehicles in my life and this is something many people overlook. If your going to supercharge your c5 be ready to upgrade the clutch, replace the clutch master and rebuild the torque tube while in there. That will be another $2k+.
All good points. Except I am on my stock master cyl. I saw no need to replace it. Monster twin disc, and new gm slave work just about like stock. Cheers!
Would you recommend a turbo/supercharger Camshaft over the stock one, to pair up with the supercharger kit? Thanks in advance!
What are your goals? With a stock cam, I'm trapping 130 mph in the quarter mile running e33 fuel that I blend with 91 octane and e85. On 92 octane I was trapping around 125/ 126. If you are going to build a drag car, with a forged rotating assembly, a beefed up drivetrain from a C6, and wanted to trap more than 130mph then yes. Otherwise not necessary in my opinion unless you absolutely have to have the big cam chop sound.
Is supercharging only for the Zo6??? I have a slightly modified convertible. (Stage 4 texas cam/polished heads/ long pipe headers/ bearing all around/ lifters*springs)
No, you can supercharge any of the c5s.
@@Toys4Life true, but some seem to think the Zo6 motor is better for supercharging for some reason
@@RCThis I think it's worse, it has higher compression. Ideally for supercharging compression would be even a little bit lower than the LS1. The heads flow a little better though.
For the ppl that live in Georgia or near, call Vengeance Racing if you're serious about adding HP to your Vette or Camaro. They are the best for all your needs and very professional.
Good tip - people do need to know who the best shops are in each part of this large country!!
I supercharged my C7 Corvette Manual with Edelbrock Stage 1 Canned tune. Feels great but now I am paranoid I'm going to blow the motor. No data illuding to failure, all temps are low. Just now paranoid.
Knock is what will kill it fast. Make sure you are monitoring for it. Then comes too much heat from being at WOT too long (think Texas mile) then comes just too darn much HP. My opinion anyways (:-). I Need to go for a spin in a SC 7 speed manual C7, you don't live in the midwest do you? lol
@@Toys4Life central California, Military VANDENBERG AFB, everything is stock minus the SC. Just pushing the advertised 500whp/500 torque on 91 octane. I think I’m to put back to stock
A heads/cam LS1 is only unbearable to drive on the street when you're in continuous stop/go traffic that barely moves. I know only one nearby city that has that kind of traffic and I know to stay far away from there
Agree. But a big head cam car is fun for a while - on the weekends!! Thanks for the comment!!
heads cam intake best thing for any car
@@0Heeroyuy01 Fun - yes. Best, depends...
I disagree that they are unbearable in stop and go traffic. If you have a solid tune and run a better gear in the diff that driveability factor improves 10 fold. Big cam cars with the right gearing will drive beautifully in local traffic situations.
Most guys do heads & cam but keep the 3.42s in the rear. Upgrade to a 4.10 and that surging issue from a cam at low RPMs is eliminated. Plus the exhaust drone in 6th at highway cruise goes away as well.
Swap the gear and prepare to kick yourself in the ass for not doing it sooner.
@@gotmylk Since a big cam pushes the torque curve up, I 100% agree with you that a rear gear should be part of the head cam equasion. In fact it should be H&C&G. The annoyance factor is highly subjective - even when the same person is involved. For example, I would absolutely live with a H&C setup for a daily drive at 21. Once I hit about 45, not so much. To each their own for sure! Just don't keep it stock - stock is boring... Cheers.
I have a c6 with an elderbrock supercharger on it, what do you think about that supercharger is it a good one?
I don't know enough about that specific supercharger to give an opinion. How long have you had it, do you like it?
@@Toys4Life it’s a beast
Good advice!
Thanks BIG J!
Makes sense to me 🤔👍
Good to hear! Thanks for the comment!
Thanks for the knowledge.
Thanks for taking the time to comment!
Recomendable long headers and exhaust with that supercharger???
Speed engineering.
Thanks
Thanks for the thanks!
what if you add a vented hood, oil cooler, maybe a better radiator, and basically the works for other cooling? would that help the stock bottom end by chance? or is it still just surgery time before or after the race track with an ls6?
Combustion chamber temps if hot enough could close the piston ring gap and destroy the piston. Ring manufactures require wider gaps for forced induction and nitrous engines. That having been said - few have any problems with this issue at 600 crank hp for 1/4 mile blasts or less. Not sure what distance would cause an issue - don't want to find out with my car....
Thanks for telling me🤔👍👍👍
4 sure.
What do you think of the Elderbrock supercharger?
I don't think they have one for the C5.
What would it cost to upgrade a stock C5 into a bulletproof 1000 bhp street monster?
That's a good question. If I wanted a thousand horsepower I would start with a 2008 and newer C6 because of the more bullet roof manual transmission drivetrain.
well i guess im not supercharging my C5 as i drive it year round and that means cold start less than 25F
See if procharger is the same. The eaton roots- Maggie style are fine. Turbo too.
I love my old c5 but even a boosted one wouldn’t come close to my fbo cobra jet e85 setup ran 10.3 at 145
But it's a Ford.
I'm just kidding, it's all good.
My zo6 run 10.01 140mph! N I'm going to turn her up!.. LOOK OUT LOW 9s on her way I can beat ur Ford.
I had a C5 I swapped LS1 for LS3 supercharged stage 2 cam with an A and A corvette supercharger heads ported implode with a McLeod double clutch the last time I had it Dino. It went 6 73 horsepower at the rear wheel then I changed the fuel injectors 285 pounder's mytuner did a street tune and that son-of-a-b**** has run faster than that ever ran before I know it's pulling at least 7 plus horsepower
What about the drivetrain, that's a ton of horsepower and torque!
Side note what's your experience with EBCM module's. I have a 05 C6 and
Am about to have my 2nd BCM installed . i would like to get a C5 z51 also. Your thoughts?
I had to resolder my board on my 03.
potential customers of a complete super/Turbo conversion should first of all get a true comprehensive estimate from a reputable speed shop.
That alone will put things in perspective and make all the other con’s redundant.
Yes, you can do it at home. But you better have a few spare engines kicking around.
Just saying.....
Agreed - Definitely find your shop and get a quote if you're going to have them do it. Also, many people are qualified to install it at home but not too many are able to tune it. Knowing your limits, work within them and you'll be fine!
@@Toys4Life it’s refreshing to come across knowledgeable people that give good advice, not just selling stuff with unrealistic expectations..
Yes, proper tuning is absolutely essential.
In my past life I have driven a souped up 930 turbo Porsche( I lived in Europe ) and did many long distance Banzai Runs on the Autobahn .
The wear and tear on the engine was significant and basically required an engine overhaul every year.
Cheers
QUestion: I just got offered a Supercharged C5 with only 100.000km. In Norway a SC has to be approved and written in to the cars papers. So what im wondering is if its easy to change belt to run with or without the SC? What wold i have to do to disconnect it from running and being able to run the car normaly without boost? Im just wondring how mutch work it might be.
Thanks for a great channel. Been watching for years but today i subscribed :-)
Quite a bit. Remove the supercharger head unit and bracked, reinstall the factory tensioner and belt and also remove the tube going from the MAF sensor to the intercooler and try to find a modified intake system that would hopefully fit without removing the intercooler. I can't imagine it would be worth the effort. I believe the A&A kit has the Californa Air Resource Board C.A.R.B approval - which is pretty strict - but is sounds like that does not matter in Norway. Thanks for the sub and good luck with your decision!
Thanks awesome videos
Glad you like them!
What brand lift is that?
Max jax. There's a review on my channel if you're interested. I love it!
02 z06 with ProChar, she is Nasty
Z06 or SC if you are racing for times, otherwise it's silly, just relax & enjoy the ride.
But those freeway on ramps....
Excellent!
Mine is stock I will leave it that way..too much work swapping over
I hear you - I waited 10 years before I took the time to find tips and tackle this.
@Toys4Life C5 I watched your vidio of it and what you went through it turned out nice you do nice work I'm a mechanic..I will leave work like that for my 69 camaro where I have room to work c.5 is too tight
orrrr do BOTH edelbrock heads, cam, piston, aluminum intake manifold kit for $3k then slap a supercharger on
If you only want 525 RWHP - no need to mess with all that other stuff, just the belt driven hair dryer is good enough!
I bet that after you mentioned the piston "catastrophic failure" .... you went for a ride :)
Heck ya!
@@Toys4Life seriously thinking of putting v3Ti on my C6 .... i want 630whp horse on 98 octane you think its possible ?
Possible - yes. I don't trust the stock pistons that high though. Just my opinion. I would stop around 550 RWHP....
yeah, don't supercharge it, big turbo it ;)
Properly done turbos are awesome - my only issue in the C5 is small confined engine bay and heat/packaging.
or you could get an egt guage and not guess
Or you could gap your rings properly and not have to pray as much. For an EGT gauge to work properly with no guessing, wouldn't you really need a probe on each cylinder (like on a superflow engine Dyno) to make sure you catch any individual cylinder that's running hot due to airflow discrepancies or injector flow discrepancies? I'm kind of looking forward to owning an electric power plant, I'm thinking a lot less guess work and praying going on there. Just kidding, this kind of stuff is what makes cars fun!
Speaking about stock block stock bottom end... Those reasons are exactly the reason to spend the extra $2000 and rebuild the bottom end and gap the rings accordingly.....
You could do that but - 550RWHP, VAST majority will be fine. Total rebuild of SBE and Run it at 550RWHP or less, vast majority will be fine. That is the conclusion I reached after researching this a year or so prior to pulling the trigger 3 years ago. I am at 525 RWHP for the past 2 seasons and so far so good. Go with 600RWHP and up (or run the Texas mile), I would personally go forged bottom end with proper ring gaps. Just my opinion.
@Matt Brad I don't, but I want to give it a whirl sometime. For that small of a course, I think a supercharger is probably wee bit overkill.. what do you think?
@Matt Brad The z adds 2% to the front from the back compared to the coupe. If you go with an A&A if I did my math right, it adds another 1% to the front.I wouldn't think that it would make a ton of difference, but maybe somebody who's done it will chime in.
You missed a very big reason not to add a supercharger or modify your c5 for power. Epa is aggressively attacking the aftermarket car industry and pushing to make it illegal to modify production cars, even for off road use. Please get the word out and let people know about the rpm act.
You raise a good point and issue that all car guys should be aware of. I have sympathy for cars and gas engines, but some of the diesel stuff is questionable in my mind.
If doing the supercharger cost 3K instead of 6K I'd do it. Thing is, I only paid $3,900.00 for my 99 FRC with 40 K miles on it. However, it was sort of .... totaled.
I get it. That having been said, supercharger is the Best reliable HP per dollar mod.
@@Toys4Life OK. I'll think harder about it. Thanks.
I’m curious about higher mileage(100k+) engines? Assuming it’s a well maintained engine would it be worth boosting or just enjoying until it’s retired and swapping out for newer engine then building it.
If it's got good oil pressure, good compression, and doesn't have too much piston slap on cold start up, I'd go for it. Having said that there's absolutely no guarantees with any LS engine how long it might last boosted. I think you could go 200 extra horsepower and probably be safe if those conditions are met.
Why not use nitrous? A 200 shot would not hurt the car. A proper tune of course is everything.
In addition to or instead of. I think nitrous is a pain in the ass personally unless it's a dedicated drag car or you're really really into it and motivated to keep the bottle full and warm and purged and you know.
my grandfather has a c5 it has 100 horsepower and its super charged
Only 100? What happened to it?
@@Toys4Life i meant 1000
When on local roads I do the speed limit. 45...55...
On hwy I do 70 ..or 65
I do not speed ...in 40 years of
Driving I only got 1 ticket..
And I was doing 67 on a 55 limit road....I don't think having a supercharger will kill me...just saying 😌
Agreed, go for it!
Every time I hear you talk I think I’m listening to mark tewksbury. Lol
Hmmm.. Not sure what to make of that.
Lol it’s all good.
I will never get rid of my boost.
Same, pretty much no brainer for performance..
6 to 8 grand for a SC kit is NOT a good power to cost ratio. And adding in labor and tuning costs make it even worse, Your mileage may vary,
Hmmmmm. A&A or ECS kit yields 200 HP and installed and tuned for $7100. That equals $35.50 per HP. Where do you think you can find 200 extra ultra streetable and reliable (that leaves NOS out) for under $35.50 per HP?
@@Toys4Life And without an entire valvetrain upgrade( springs, pushrods and rocker trunnions) you are left with a ticking time bomb waiting to, well, you know That scenario. And if that doesn't kill your stock LS the borderline cooling system surely will if you lead foot the car much, and they all do. So that's another 2 grand to make it survivable. Plus the stock Dampener is notorious for failing in stock rigs, another couple hundred, And that exceeds for most guys the cost of the original car. Some bargain.
I respectfully disagree 100%. The vast majority of people that have 550 rear wheel horsepower experience no valve train issues provided the springs are upgraded for the extra RPM and to still close against the resistance of the boost on the intake valve. You're right about the dampener though, the GM ones will fail even in 100% stock vehicle owned by a little old lady. It's funny because I get the brunt of a lot of people telling me that I'm babying the LS1 and that it easily handle 700 rear wheel horsepower. I'm not so sure about that level to risk it. Plus I'm plenty happy with 550 on the street for the past 3 years. Hopefully some others will chime in then have been down this road and let us know what their experience has been.
@@Toys4Life Not arguing with the fun factor at all but even you admit it takes more than "the kit" to make it reliable. And it's still a huge outlay for a tire fryer that loses it superb handling ability with 50lbs hanging over the right front axle. So we agree to disagree. Take care, good channel.
@@richknudsen5781 You make good points to consider and like you said - lets agree to disagree on some of the points. That having been said, I would absolutely add a few more mods to the base kit (and I have) to make it more reliable at higher HP level. Namely I changed out my crappy GM balancer and swapped in the LS6 valve springs to handle the higher RPM and boost on the intake valves. Since you brought up the weight balance just now, CHECK THIS OUT: 1. Most agree the C5 Z06 is the best handling C5 - Right?
2. The C5 Z06 has lighter titanium mufflers behind the drive wheels which makes the car lighter but also takes away from the rear weight.
3. The A&A kit adds about 70lbs to the front of the car. This changes the Front/Rear weight distribution on the coupe from the stock 51%/49% to 52%/48% - indeed making it a little more nose heavy as you pointed out for a 1% shift.
4. However, The National Corvette Museum lists the C5 Z06 as 53%/47%. Does that mean the A&A kit makes the C5 Coupe a better balanced sports car than the C5 Z06? I thought most want it closer to 50/50. I don't think 1% is a big enough difference but it is interesting when comparing the supercharged coupe, stock coupe and Z06.. Source: www.corvettemuseum.org/learn/about-corvette/corvette-specs/2002-corvette-specs/
In my personal experiences it's not a matter of if the stock springs, piston rings and or pistons will fail it's a matter of when.
I had a piston shatter in a mild LS1 build (stage 2 heads and 228/228/112 cam) due to one missed shift from 4th to 3rd. I missed 5th... shifted back into 3rd at high RPM...floated a valve and grenaded a piston. This was in an NA car only making 398rwhp 390rwtq.
Driver error was the cause, but the springs, piston and rings in stock LS1s are weak points with very little room for driver error at high rpms.
Changed my lower shift box and forged my internals to reduce shift errors & mitigate catastrophic failure events when my driving sucks. I've had two high rpm shift errors since that time (since 2008) but engine is still tip top.
Forged is best for sure. Curious - what RPM do you think you hit when you went back into 3rd?
@@Toys4Life it was over 6500 but I'm really not sure how high it screamed. It happened so fast. I was racing my buddy on his Vmax 1200 at the time. I engaged the clutch immediately but it was too late.
Motor instantly sounded like a spoon in a blender. It was possibly the worst sound in the world.
If I had to guess it was in the 7ks.
Yikes. What did you go with for the shift box. MGW?
@@Toys4Life my old box was warn out and sloppy. So I just went with a take off OEM C6 box. Shifts are much more true now and cost me $40.
I've been running a B&M ripper up top for many years..
Prochager a L98 c4
Why not!
For my Street racers, watching this video. If you are gonna build this car to run to the top of 4th get the T-trim Vortech or the D1SC Procharger. Ur gonna waste ur money buying the P1SC or V3si Pay now or pay again later 😂😂
That's that about 750 horsepower plus, I'd also go with a forged rotating assembly and probably do some transmission/differential upgrades.
@@Toys4Life Yea I'm with you there, Rear probably safe if you are just roll racing but your MM6 is gonna explode eventually once you get over 500 wheel. If you bolt on a super charger to a 4L60E with no upgrades you are gonna have a bad time thats for sure 😂😂
It adds too much weight to the front of the car and limits its abilities too much for my taste due to the stock piston and ring configuration.
The Z06 being light in the rear disrupts the F/R bias just as much or more than the addition of a supercharger to a non Z06 car. Most get 500+ wheel HP out of the SBE with no issues. Go to 700+ and get greedy - bad things happen...
That's why u throw some subs in the back haha
Battery is 35-ish lbs. Move it to the rear
People don’t want to supercharge their c5 vette bc your video got 19k views but because it creates a vette as fast as a 2010 and neeer C6 Z06.
Gotta love the C6 Z06!!
Why don't you just call it TurboCharger ?
I'm not sure I understand your question. A supercharger is different than a turbocharger. Superchargers are belt driven, turbochargers are exhausted driven.
@@Toys4Life exactly, and isn't the vortech kit you mentioned a turbocharger?
@@98Oktanow negative.
@@Toys4Life Actually I was wrong. As a european I got used to a different look of a supercharger.
Sorry about that.
@@98Oktanow No problem sir!
Wait a minute. Supercharging causes heat issues if you use all the power? Guess if I get one I won't be supercharging.
Um, if you use all the power for too long with stock gap rings I think it just may tear the top of a piston off. 1/4 mile seems to be fine for most....
What the point of reinventing the wheel? This many mods you're rebuilding the cars. To each their own.🤔😃
What?
I would never do anything more than a cold air intake and a performance exhaust. I have had 2 c5s. a 2003 and a 2004. I still have the 2004. They are fast enough and plenty of fun around town. The only event I do is Autocross. A stock C5 is great for autocross. A big reason for not doing upgrades is that most people will not buy a modified Corvette. They don't trust it. The resale goes down not up.
That's true about the resale, I never modify a vehicle I don't intend to keep for an extended period of time. If I was doing autocross, I might do gears and that's about it.
@@Toys4Life Have you ever driven a C7 Stingray. I have a C7 Stingray Convertible. I autocross it about 3 or 4 times year. My C5 is a Z51. It handles well. However, the steering handling and performance on the C7 is vastly superior. Vastly
@@tbn334 I have not, but I am aware that and see five and six are pretty close but c7 has a pretty decided edge in slalom and skid pad which would also obviously equate to better autocross/road race. Bring it over I'd love to go for a ride!
@@Toys4Life Are you anywhere close to Atlanta
Unfortunately no... Minnesota.
I don’t think TX mile would hurt ya at all w/ a blown C5Z - you gotta run meth.
you may well be right sir. That having been said,I wouldn't risk my motor without regapping my rings.