Question. My jeep wrangler idles fine and even in gear I can let go of the brake and It won't stall but when I press the gas in gear it hesitates a little bit, catches, and then stalls.. please help
Replaced my OPD about 2 years ago , sounded like my TJ had a rod knock . Thank god my new one came with a cap that locks it ,so after I set timing at TDC ,I removed the old one , put the lock on new one and she fired right up and has been running great ever since.
I just got a code for the camshaft position sensor. Was making sure it was drop in. Hopefully the crank sensor is good for now. Will find out. Thanks for this video.
So, I have just replaced my oil pump and I have to prime the pump by removing the Cam position sensor and using a drill with a long flat head screw driver to spin the oil pump gear. Once I do that I have to replace the Cam sensor. So I'm going to treat it the same way I would if I were lifting a distrubutor: Mark it good, lift it, be careful with it, replace it as per marks. If that doesn't get it perfect, I'll set it to TDC, line up the holes and re-install as if it were a new camshaft sensor. Ya like that?
Just to clarify... the Crank Sensor will tell the ECU when the Cylinder #1 is in TDC so you don't really need to worry about Cylinder #1. Just align the camshaft harmonic balancer notch to the mark and install the Synchronizer as stated in the User Manual and this video and the Crank Position Sensor will take care of the rest.
Thanks for the video. I fought with this in the past and am keeping my xj and probably getting a tj in the future so I will hang on to the video. Very helpful.
I'm looking at putting a cam and lifters in an 02 4.0. Aside from the headache of removing the head and all the prep work and labeling/identifying all the parts for reassembly, I dread timing the cam sensor(which obviously has to be removed to pull the cam) hopefully my scan tool has access to the diagnostic for synchronizing the sensor so there wont be a major hiccup during the cam break-in
Dude! Been watching your vids for years and your video quality, lighting audio, and commentary are top notch! So much better than watching "rona" newz! Drink up man! Thank you so much for taking the time to teach us!
Easy way. Rotate the position sensor till you see a hole put in pin move it side way if it is a little lose then turn it half turn till the other hole thru the peep hole lines up or look at it as turning it count the and turn the spot to see if it short or small hole to stick the pin to be line up with the proper timing side as it rotate then is line up crankshaft at 11 o clock facing tours it like a clock on the bottom with oil drive must be on time mark as well crankshaft pulley mark both of them. If it don't crank its turn and cranks you either overflow and dirty the spark plugs clean them up or if its backfiring a little or mess up position sensor.coil or fuel pump just test them out or listen for fuel pump sometimes flooded gasoline
Thank you so much..I accidentally removed it thinking it was the oil pressure sensor. If it wasn't for your video I'd probably would have spent $200 for a mechanic to do it. You're the bomb 💣 Very intelligent man.
ive replaced both crank/cam sensors with mopar units the OPDA with a crown one, new timing chain, new spark plugs, jeep runs a bit different usually better after each repair but now out of the blue its wont start warm. starts and runs great cold for as long as you want soon as you shut it down it just cranks sputters maybe will start for a second on a few cylinders but cant even keep itself running in neutral full throttle.. dunno what to do at this point other than replace the cam shaft? which involves pulling the rad grill head manifolds basically strip the whole engine/top end 2005 Jeep rubicon 4.0 6speed.. any info would be great been fighting this cam/crank sensor nonsense for 2 years im starting to hate the vehicle
I had recently replaced two cam sensors on a 2000 and 2003 4.0 GCs. Didn’t pull the entire CPS out and only replaced the electrical part on each. Never had to stick it on a computer to align. Neither have codes either . Just FYI.
I'm having this problem right now, purchased a new Camshaft position sensor, and without realizing pulled the OPDA out only to realize later that I should have payed attention to how it was sitting when I took it out. My problem is that my particular OPDA has no hole to lock the wire through.........I've seen a few other threads online where there is a plastic alignment tool thing that they use, my sensor didn't come with that. Anyways I'm stuck now, with trying to re-align everything, and am thinking that I'm going to have to buy a new OPDA, re set the Jeep to TDC via hand Cranking like you show here. My question is how close does it need to be? I mean if I am at TDC, and just eyeball the pulse ring on the OPDA it seems that it is typically 180° opposite than the way the sensor wires come off the top when final tightening of the hold down ring? Why would my OPDA have no alignment hole???
Holy crap did I struggle w this for 3 hours today. Mines still in tj w fan, had to remove belt for TDC mark, didn't seem to wanna just drop in, when it did drop in, musta been 180 out , 50/50 would be my luck to f it up. 180 out: started, ran, put back together realized after applying throttle would stumble and die.... sounded AWFUL 😢 Back a TDC agai, after messing my arm up in the fan, pulled sensor and noted position of sync was wrong. Also noticed it looked 180 out. Pulled sync back up, turned 180...where it should been, then, and only then did it actually JUST DROP IN 😂. IT WORKED interestingly enough it did set off the $$ light. Code p0340, 0351, 0353 Minutes after running, engine lights off, no codes. I replaced sync cause it was wallowed out and was tapping the sensor everytime it came around at low rim. Ticking sound is gone. Runs great now, thanks man !!!
THat big thing there cannot be the camshaft position sensor. The sensor is small. ANd further; Is it necessary to crank the engine to top dead center on cylinder one when I have just removed the sensor and placed it back without driving without the sensor?
I have an old one Jeep Grand Cherokee 2001 that little plastic cap that's is the sensor that's all you have to change you don't have to fool with that other part about 155,000 miles that's the code that came up thank you Jeeps always seem to break always break
Hey, great vid! I am currently in the process of diagnostic with mine... maybe you could share some insight. My cam positioning sensor has a very loud tick emulating from it, do you think that that is a sign of failure?
I just had to replace the camshaft sensor too... still have the codes, checked the voltage and it's good so I'm lost on what to do now. Off to the dealer.
Great timing, I'm just about to put my cam sensor back in! I dont have one of those high end scanners that can calibrate the sensor, so this will work. Thanks for the info, as always, Jerry.
I followed everything, but I don’t have a scan tool and the Jeep won’t start. The sensor is facing the correct direction and cylinder 1 is TDC on the compression stroke. Sounds like it is either not getting spark or fuel.
I just watched your video because I replaced my crank position sensor and I got the p304 code. The code states I need to replace the camshaft position sensor, my concern is if I do that do I have to the same steps as you did with setting the engine to TDC. I forgot to mention I have a 1999 Wj. Thanks in advance
Manuel Salazar I just did this today and it threw that code. I proceeded to replace the cam sensor and it's still bucking. I haven't tried the whole scanner thing. Did you?
Cam shaft position sensor synchronizer, you can buy the sensor separately or get the synchronizer witch comes with the sensor, i suggest getting the whole thing because there’s only a few dollars difference on buying the synchronizer/sensor combo and just the sensor
So On my regular 2001 Xj seems I keep getting a code for this and sometimes I can’t start it. So can I just get a new sensor, is it just plug in play? I don’t think I would have do any any of the extra stuff like you did for this certain build.
Why cant you turn the crankshaft backwards if you pass the mark accidentally, you can turn it back, just turn it way back to pass the mark due to slack in engine timing belts or chains, and then approach the mark with much better caution. Its best to us a breakable item for the alignment pic such as a toothpick so people who forget the pin is in and then later crank the engine over while waiting for a new CMP Sensor, they don't break the camshaft part also. You will need a scope to align perfectly to set the timing but a scan tool will do a relearn for you if its off somewhat, that is the purpose of the alignment holes, in the video, it was moved a little before tightening everything down. Test all wires with the connector plugged in to load the circuit properly, of course testing the 5 volts with connector off only tests the integrity of the wire that is holding on by a little strand but cannot carry enough current for a good signal from the computer to the sensor worse case, at least you know the computer is working. Also know that the computer sends this same 5-volt signal and same ground wire to many sensors so a break in this specific wire nearby may be your problem as there are several slices, time to tear the wire harness open. Dont set timing until the engine is fully warmed up and at normal idle, this also goes for scanner relearn or scope alignment. Thanks for the great video.
Can that sensor be installled wrong If motor runs good but when you go to start the motor at any temp it sound like a 1960 Chevy with a huge out of time issue but again as far as running the motor runs GREAT
So I changed the cam shaft sensor an still getting it to pop up on scanner so does that me I have to do the component underneath it as well like this guy in the video? Doing work myself but I'm no mechanic.
The issue is once it’s installed it needs to be set, on some high end scanner you turn it like would would a distributer and on the scanner you get the value closest to zero and lock it down.
I just had an interesting failure. 2003 TJ with 100k miles. Check engine light on and drove home 2 miles, shut engine off, would not restart. Code for cam position sensor. Pulled the top portion off and, lo and behold, the magnet came unglued. Nothing broke so a new sensor cap and I was good to go. Anyone else have the magnet come unglued?
So I didn’t take the whole thing out, my Jeep shut off this morning goin down the road and threw a code for camshaft position sensor, do I need to get it to top dead center if I didn’t take it out or anything? Only thing I’ve noticed is that the 2 wholes where you’d put a piece of wire through aren’t lined up. Trying to keep it as simple as possible
I'm sure you've figured this out by now but if you are just replacing the sensor on top you don't have to do any of this stuff. Just unplug it, unscew it, take it off, put new one on, screw it on, replug and done.
@@hc5788 this is also my question, I'm just gonna put it to TDC, line up.the holes in the housing and the pulse ring, and get it as close to rear facing as possible. Did you ever figure yours out?
@@TestDontguess I’m having an issue after driving for 90 mins and I slow down the oil pressure gauge check light comes on so I installed a mechanical oil pressure gauge.. I changed the oil , new filter and the problem came back? Added a new cam shaft drive assembly and timing is off with codes! Will try your video! What can be the problem with low pressure? This motor I had was installed a 18 months ago with 0 miles ( fresh rebuilt) 17k miles as of today! The original motor did the same as well with the gauge so I’m assuming it’s wringing possibly? Thank you on the video! Your thoughts please?
@@TestDontguess i appreciate your quick reply!! i have a 94 YJ 4.0 manual - everything seems to work, check engine lights, fuel pump priming, starter all work with the exception of no spark to the plugs. have replaced the ignition coil, crankshaft sensor and just replaced the ECM. the tech says that he thinks the ECM is not sending a ground and some of the capacitors are bad due to it getting shorted out with some exposed wires they discovered. Maddening!
If it’s just that camshaft sensor for my WJ, so I have to make sure it’s top center, make sure it’s #1, etc? Or can I just undo those two screws and replace top sensor?
Just watch ur vid and did everything u said but it will idle fine but u can not give it any gas at all it will shudder miss fire and the odometer goes off around 1000 rpms and abs brake and airbag light come on when u let off gas everything goes back to normal any ideas
Sounds like you got bigger issues somewhere with a power or ground somewhere. However to sync your cam properly you still need a high end scanner like I show in this video ua-cam.com/video/wKdtRec9dKI/v-deo.html
Also forgot to say that check gauge light is on and Batt gauge don't work right's have a smooth idle but as soon as u give the engine gas it stutters back fires and all those lights I said before go haywire any idea what it could be
He also if you did it right and did not start turn over the the oil half turn on 11 o clock then bolt it up and try it if you crank it to much will need spark plugs clean and dry off time of overflow of gasoline sometimes cranking it will mess up starter fuel pump and other parts as well as the position sensor and battery sp if it don't turn on the the first or second time stop and go figure
How to sync cam after replacing those parts
ua-cam.com/video/wKdtRec9dKI/v-deo.html
Question. My jeep wrangler idles fine and even in gear I can let go of the brake and It won't stall but when I press the gas in gear it hesitates a little bit, catches, and then stalls.. please help
Thank you so much, I installed a 95 motor in a 2000 Cherokee, it works great, I thought I had to go to dealership for reflash, thanks again
If you purchase the Dorman 689-200 it comes with an alignment tool. Checked with the scanner after and it was right on 0°. Was pretty convenient
Was your engine just cutting off before this?
Crank no start. Mostly from metal flakes on the CMP.
Replaced my OPD about 2 years ago , sounded like my TJ had a rod knock . Thank god my new one came with a cap that locks it ,so after I set timing at TDC ,I removed the old one , put the lock on new one and she fired right up and has been running great ever since.
You got lucky usually you need a high end scanner to set the cam sync afterwards getting it closest to zero as you can
I just got a code for the camshaft position sensor. Was making sure it was drop in. Hopefully the crank sensor is good for now. Will find out. Thanks for this video.
Ended up being the coil pack. Ha
So, I have just replaced my oil pump and I have to prime the pump by removing the Cam position sensor and using a drill with a long flat head screw driver to spin the oil pump gear. Once I do that I have to replace the Cam sensor. So I'm going to treat it the same way I would if I were lifting a distrubutor: Mark it good, lift it, be careful with it, replace it as per marks. If that doesn't get it perfect, I'll set it to TDC, line up the holes and re-install as if it were a new camshaft sensor. Ya like that?
Just to clarify... the Crank Sensor will tell the ECU when the Cylinder #1 is in TDC so you don't really need to worry about Cylinder #1. Just align the camshaft harmonic balancer notch to the mark and install the Synchronizer as stated in the User Manual and this video and the Crank Position Sensor will take care of the rest.
Thanks for the video. I fought with this in the past and am keeping my xj and probably getting a tj in the future so I will hang on to the video. Very helpful.
I'm looking at putting a cam and lifters in an 02 4.0.
Aside from the headache of removing the head and all the prep work and labeling/identifying all the parts for reassembly, I dread timing the cam sensor(which obviously has to be removed to pull the cam) hopefully my scan tool has access to the diagnostic for synchronizing the sensor so there wont be a major hiccup during the cam break-in
Dude! Been watching your vids for years and your video quality, lighting audio, and commentary are top notch! So much better than watching "rona" newz! Drink up man! Thank you so much for taking the time to teach us!
Easy way. Rotate the position sensor till you see a hole put in pin move it side way if it is a little lose then turn it half turn till the other hole thru the peep hole lines up or look at it as turning it count the and turn the spot to see if it short or small hole to stick the pin to be line up with the proper timing side as it rotate then is line up crankshaft at 11 o clock facing tours it like a clock on the bottom with oil drive must be on time mark as well crankshaft pulley mark both of them. If it don't crank its turn and cranks you either overflow and dirty the spark plugs clean them up or if its backfiring a little or mess up position sensor.coil or fuel pump just test them out or listen for fuel pump sometimes flooded gasoline
Thank you so much..I accidentally removed it thinking it was the oil pressure sensor. If it wasn't for your video I'd probably would have spent $200 for a mechanic to do it. You're the bomb 💣 Very intelligent man.
ive replaced both crank/cam sensors with mopar units the OPDA with a crown one, new timing chain, new spark plugs, jeep runs a bit different usually better after each repair but now out of the blue its wont start warm. starts and runs great cold for as long as you want soon as you shut it down it just cranks sputters maybe will start for a second on a few cylinders but cant even keep itself running in neutral full throttle.. dunno what to do at this point other than replace the cam shaft? which involves pulling the rad grill head manifolds basically strip the whole engine/top end
2005 Jeep rubicon 4.0 6speed.. any info would be great been fighting this cam/crank sensor nonsense for 2 years im starting to hate the vehicle
So how do know if the cam sensor is 180 out and do you make sure the shaft goes in at the 11:00 position at the oil pump to know it’s not 180 out?
Last part I did not change was the cap to this.. never removed the shaft.. Dang jeep is running rough.
I had recently replaced two cam sensors on a 2000 and 2003 4.0 GCs. Didn’t pull the entire CPS out and only replaced the electrical part on each. Never had to stick it on a computer to align. Neither have codes either . Just FYI.
I'm having this problem right now, purchased a new Camshaft position sensor, and without realizing pulled the OPDA out only to realize later that I should have payed attention to how it was sitting when I took it out. My problem is that my particular OPDA has no hole to lock the wire through.........I've seen a few other threads online where there is a plastic alignment tool thing that they use, my sensor didn't come with that. Anyways I'm stuck now, with trying to re-align everything, and am thinking that I'm going to have to buy a new OPDA, re set the Jeep to TDC via hand Cranking like you show here. My question is how close does it need to be? I mean if I am at TDC, and just eyeball the pulse ring on the OPDA it seems that it is typically 180° opposite than the way the sensor wires come off the top when final tightening of the hold down ring? Why would my OPDA have no alignment hole???
Holy crap did I struggle w this for 3 hours today. Mines still in tj w fan, had to remove belt for TDC mark, didn't seem to wanna just drop in, when it did drop in, musta been 180 out , 50/50 would be my luck to f it up. 180 out: started, ran, put back together realized after applying throttle would stumble and die.... sounded AWFUL 😢
Back a TDC agai, after messing my arm up in the fan, pulled sensor and noted position of sync was wrong. Also noticed it looked 180 out. Pulled sync back up, turned 180...where it should been, then, and only then did it actually JUST DROP IN 😂.
IT WORKED interestingly enough it did set off the $$ light. Code p0340, 0351, 0353
Minutes after running, engine lights off, no codes.
I replaced sync cause it was wallowed out and was tapping the sensor everytime it came around at low rim. Ticking sound is gone. Runs great now, thanks man !!!
THat big thing there cannot be the camshaft position sensor. The sensor is small. ANd further; Is it necessary to crank the engine to top dead center on cylinder one when I have just removed the sensor and placed it back without driving without the sensor?
I did all this information in my 2001 jeep Cherokee sport 2001 and didn’t start, what else can be thanks for the video. I’m in Guatemala
I have an old one Jeep Grand Cherokee 2001 that little plastic cap that's is the sensor that's all you have to change you don't have to fool with that other part about 155,000 miles that's the code that came up thank you Jeeps always seem to break always break
What happens if you don’t have it dead center, and you get the synchronizer installed? Will it mess anything up when you go to start it
wont start or runs rough dont ask me how I know
Hey, great vid! I am currently in the process of diagnostic with mine... maybe you could share some insight. My cam positioning sensor has a very loud tick emulating from it, do you think that that is a sign of failure?
What if that piece locked up and destroyed the cam gear? What is that piece called?
Mine isn't to the left like that it's pointed towards the block, when I twist it to the left it won't fire
Great vid. Thank you. All guess work gone now.
Question Sir,
I have a leak coming from that housing.. can I lift slightly too throw some sealer around the base.. or will that jack stuff up?
I just had to replace the camshaft sensor too... still have the codes, checked the voltage and it's good so I'm lost on what to do now. Off to the dealer.
What code are you getting ? After it’s installed you need a scanner like I got to sync the cam otherwise you’ll get a P0340 cam out of sync
P0349 and P0394
Great timing, I'm just about to put my cam sensor back in! I dont have one of those high end scanners that can calibrate the sensor, so this will work. Thanks for the info, as always, Jerry.
Yes the scanner needs to get the sensor as close to zero as possible
If I am replacing just the sensor, I do not need to do the synchronization do I?
I have a 1998 tj with the distributor, is this the same process, I’m getting a p1391 code
I followed everything, but I don’t have a scan tool and the Jeep won’t start. The sensor is facing the correct direction and cylinder 1 is TDC on the compression stroke. Sounds like it is either not getting spark or fuel.
Okay I got the entire front of the Jeep taken off, I also went ahead and pulled all the doors off. Now where is that sensor? 🤔
Followed each step in your video put everything back bolted up go to start the Jeep and it won't even crank now? Thanks for the help!
It’s pretty clear you did it wrong
Well no shit, I was seeking help but clearly you can't provide that
@@TheDillohead must not have been the compression stroke hahaha
I did that the car run but I get code 1391 And p0300 ,1..4 I have to re do it ?
The cap is the sensor and the long part in your hand is the synchronizer, right?
I had a code and put a new one on and still have a code.
I've tried testing them with a test light boiling the motor over and no power
I just watched your video because I replaced my crank position sensor and I got the p304 code. The code states I need to replace the camshaft position sensor, my concern is if I do that do I have to the same steps as you did with setting the engine to TDC. I forgot to mention I have a 1999 Wj. Thanks in advance
Manuel Salazar I just did this today and it threw that code. I proceeded to replace the cam sensor and it's still bucking. I haven't tried the whole scanner thing. Did you?
Any info on where can I order this part? Everything that populates in search is just the top piece, but not the full crankshaft..
Cam shaft position sensor synchronizer, you can buy the sensor separately or get the synchronizer witch comes with the sensor, i suggest getting the whole thing because there’s only a few dollars difference on buying the synchronizer/sensor combo and just the sensor
My camshaft sensor is making noise and vibrating and won’t run right ??
Hey somebody help me here my camshaft sensor only has two wires I neither one are hot is that correct
So On my regular 2001 Xj seems I keep getting a code for this and sometimes I can’t start it. So can I just get a new sensor, is it just plug in play? I don’t think I would have do any any of the extra stuff like you did for this certain build.
Thanks for the great videos!
Where is the distributor?
If I'm just replacing the sensor, I don't need to line up the first cylinder. Is that correct?
Why cant you turn the crankshaft backwards if you pass the mark accidentally, you can turn it back, just turn it way back to pass the mark due to slack in engine timing belts or chains, and then approach the mark with much better caution. Its best to us a breakable item for the alignment pic such as a toothpick so people who forget the pin is in and then later crank the engine over while waiting for a new CMP Sensor, they don't break the camshaft part also. You will need a scope to align perfectly to set the timing but a scan tool will do a relearn for you if its off somewhat, that is the purpose of the alignment holes, in the video, it was moved a little before tightening everything down. Test all wires with the connector plugged in to load the circuit properly, of course testing the 5 volts with connector off only tests the integrity of the wire that is holding on by a little strand but cannot carry enough current for a good signal from the computer to the sensor worse case, at least you know the computer is working. Also know that the computer sends this same 5-volt signal and same ground wire to many sensors so a break in this specific wire nearby may be your problem as there are several slices, time to tear the wire harness open. Dont set timing until the engine is fully warmed up and at normal idle, this also goes for scanner relearn or scope alignment. Thanks for the great video.
Cost of service for resetting po340 etc.
Can that sensor be installled wrong If motor runs good but when you go to start the motor at any temp it sound like a 1960 Chevy with a huge out of time issue but again as far as running the motor runs GREAT
Also no i have no codes coming up
Great vid. Where did you get the wiring diagram? I need one for my 2001 xj.
You can purchase them online at Emanuelonline
After going thru all the how fix jeeps it appears to me that owning a jeepis not worth the cost and has to many problems.
Great video. VERY informative !!
Fantastic teaching!!👍
Thanks bud, this saved my afternoon flag hours lol
So I changed the cam shaft sensor an still getting it to pop up on scanner so does that me I have to do the component underneath it as well like this guy in the video? Doing work myself but I'm no mechanic.
The issue is once it’s installed it needs to be set, on some high end scanner you turn it like would would a distributer and on the scanner you get the value closest to zero and lock it down.
@@TestDontguess really appreciate the quick response. So I just need to have somebody hook it up on a high end scanner then?
I just had an interesting failure. 2003 TJ with 100k miles. Check engine light on and drove home 2 miles, shut engine off, would not restart. Code for cam position sensor. Pulled the top portion off and, lo and behold, the magnet came unglued. Nothing broke so a new sensor cap and I was good to go. Anyone else have the magnet come unglued?
So I didn’t take the whole thing out, my Jeep shut off this morning goin down the road and threw a code for camshaft position sensor, do I need to get it to top dead center if I didn’t take it out or anything? Only thing I’ve noticed is that the 2 wholes where you’d put a piece of wire through aren’t lined up. Trying to keep it as simple as possible
I'm sure you've figured this out by now but if you are just replacing the sensor on top you don't have to do any of this stuff. Just unplug it, unscew it, take it off, put new one on, screw it on, replug and done.
Awesome video helped alit thank you
Great job man, really helped me
If you have a high end scanner that can see the cam sync signal you can then tune it better
@@TestDontguess Thanks, You the man
Know this is old thread but wut if I took the whole thing out without removing the cap. Do I still have to put it on tdc before reinstalling
@@hc5788 this is also my question, I'm just gonna put it to TDC, line up.the holes in the housing and the pulse ring, and get it as close to rear facing as possible. Did you ever figure yours out?
I'm having an oil pressure problem I'm sure I gotta change my oil pump but do I have to mess with the cam sensor at all when I clean my oil pump
have you verified with a mechanical gauge ? Pressure is a result of resistance to flow.
@@TestDontguess I’m having an issue after driving for 90 mins and I slow down the oil pressure gauge check light comes on so I installed a mechanical oil pressure gauge.. I changed the oil , new filter and the problem came back? Added a new cam shaft drive assembly and timing is off with codes! Will try your video! What can be the problem with low pressure? This motor I had was installed a 18 months ago with 0 miles ( fresh rebuilt) 17k miles as of today! The original motor did the same as well with the gauge so I’m assuming it’s wringing possibly? Thank you on the video! Your thoughts please?
Are you using your Launch Creader 3001 OBD2? I could use it if don't make any use to it. I love your videos, big fan.
Big fan but first post ? What’s my fav troubleshooting tool ?
Yes😌 I'll take a guess, I believe it's the Bluetooth OBD2.
Lol nope not even close
Oh well I'll just keep watching your videos until I find out which one it is. 😎
Thank you very much for this video.
do i need to turn the engine if im just replacing the sensor?
No
could a bad cam sensor be the cause of no spark?
depends on the vehicle but yes a faulty cam or crank sensor can lead to a no spark condition
@@TestDontguess i appreciate your quick reply!!
i have a 94 YJ 4.0 manual - everything seems to work, check engine lights, fuel pump priming, starter all work with the exception of no spark to the plugs. have replaced the ignition coil, crankshaft sensor and just replaced the ECM. the tech says that he thinks the ECM is not sending a ground and some of the capacitors are bad due to it getting shorted out with some exposed wires they discovered. Maddening!
You’re truly awesome
If it’s just that camshaft sensor for my WJ, so I have to make sure it’s top center, make sure it’s #1, etc? Or can I just undo those two screws and replace top sensor?
On my 04 WJ I replaced just the sensor and I’m still having issues so I’m about to check the timing
@@mrblondeheart9562 I learned that unplugging the front o2 sensor works. Check engine on is on, but it runs great. Cherry
Just watch ur vid and did everything u said but it will idle fine but u can not give it any gas at all it will shudder miss fire and the odometer goes off around 1000 rpms and abs brake and airbag light come on when u let off gas everything goes back to normal any ideas
Sounds like you got bigger issues somewhere with a power or ground somewhere. However to sync your cam properly you still need a high end scanner like I show in this video
ua-cam.com/video/wKdtRec9dKI/v-deo.html
Also forgot to say that check gauge light is on and Batt gauge don't work right's have a smooth idle but as soon as u give the engine gas it stutters back fires and all those lights I said before go haywire any idea what it could be
Common sense would tell you figure out why the battery gauge doesn’t work and keep on troubleshooting
Did you ever find the problem I’m having the same issue?
@@alexanderr.5479 yes it ended up being the computer
Good video. Thanks
Saludos amigo podría facilitar el diagrama muchas gracias
tankyou man i have the same problem, very useful you video
Thank you
He also if you did it right and did not start turn over the the oil half turn on 11 o clock then bolt it up and try it if you crank it to much will need spark plugs clean and dry off time of overflow of gasoline sometimes cranking it will mess up starter fuel pump and other parts as well as the position sensor and battery sp if it don't turn on the the first or second time stop and go figure
You saved my ass thank you
Hello
What?!?! No swearing anymore?!?! WTF, man 😉
Must be an 04, can’t fucking find a thing about an 05 tj
Mine is a 03 but 05-06 are different
Yes I probably dodged a bullet for sure.
No
Great video 👍
gracias dios lo bendiga