While clearing vegetation on an electric fence is listed as a con, it’s actually a blessing in disguise. Most guys in my area build woven wire or barbed wire fences and after 10-20 years of zero vegetation control trees and brush take it over completely and in many cases the whole thing has to be torn out with an excavator if you want to clean it up. Also, I think the American version of High tensile fences don’t emphasize the physical barrier component enough. The New Zealanders have it right in that regard, I think for cattle a 5 wire fence is the minimum and for sheep 7 wire is superb. Going up to 8 or 9 wires is a marginal cost difference and can give you the benefit of electric deterrent as well as a formidable physical barrier. You can still keep posts spaced 25 feet or so but adding a batten/dropper between posts can further tighten the wires for relatively low additional cost.
I've watched countless electric fence videos this week, as I have a goat that is apparently an ancestor of Houdini. I can NOT keep that blasted goat in the fence. So, I've been trying to get tips on how to make my fence better. This is, by far, one of the best videos I've seen regarding electric fencing. Simple, to the point, and easy to understand. Thank you for the awesome video, and information!
Great videos in general and this one is one of your best. One point you should have stressed a bit is the fence MUST BE CHARGED! Unless and while you are working on it. I lost a beautiful ewe that got tangled in a de-energized fence overnight and strangled herself. The sheep and dogs had become so respectful of the hot fence I assumed it was not necessary to keep it powered up. Now I have a combination of hard wire field fences with cross fencing that cost about $8k covering about 2-3 acres. Im adding 3 acres of electric fence and use energized netting to move cross fences within that pasture. The cost should be right around $600 not including the charger I have already.
You are right! I lost three ewe lambs in portable netting when a fallen tree grounded out my fence while I was gone on vacation. Netting needs to be charged!
I also recommend the power wizard after talking to someone who repairs chargers for a living. He stated that they were among the most well built units on the market.
City boy here, first time on your station. Being a retired Electrician I guessing at a gate you might bury 3/4 PVC pipes and pull the ground and Hot through.
I just watched another video and it was like going to a grade school presentation designed to help the children with there lack of attention span and was redundant. Basicly it sucked and was anoying. The very opposite of your well thought out and well explained presentation. I give you a A+
I have a horse that I can keep in with a single line. I don't even have to have the whole thing energized. So long as a segment is hot, she won't go near it. However, the goats are different. I prefer a solid fence for them at night. I don't want to take chances.
@@rollingofarm hey , if we went with a solid fence , & we added a electric fence where would u add , inside paddock or outside ? In my situation I have woods behind paddock . So I’m trying to figure if I should add inside or outside
I see fencing supplies not explained like rubber around posts and what type of high tensel wire to purchase, grounding wire, and grounding posts options?
good video but keep in mind the voltage you are dealing with reg. romex house wire is only good for 600 volt and in time will break down and short out ,I know it happen to me and could have burned down my barn
Loved the video very informative, and I have watched a few. One question what’s your spacing for t posts to wood posts? I noticed as you were walking you had large wood posts.
On field fence, I space my T post every 10’ for goats and sheep (8’ for cattle), with wood post every 100’ or in a major dip or rise. For high tensile, I space them every 20’, with a wood post only on major dips or rises.
@@rollingofarm I would love to see a video of you explaining or actually physically burying the lines. I'm assuming you have one main line going from the Energizer, buried underground to the pastures, and then auxiliary lines connected between this main line and the various fences? This underground network of insulated cable to the various connection points of different fences/pastures on the same property is something that is missing on UA-cam. Your explanations are articulate and cogent, and the fashion in which you conduct your work is similarly efficient. I'd like to see an explanation from you on this deceivingly simple topic; once digging and electricity are involved, things can become a huge complicated pain in the buttocks.
Brilliant video and so very informative. 1 question..can I connect the system to the grounding rod of a utility pole if I can't get a rod deep enough due to rocky soil?
Doing this won't work. What is referred to as a ground is actually the return path to the battery or AC source. There is no ground. You either have a positive and negative in the case of DC or a hot and neutral in the case of AC. They are fundamentally the same. They carry the voltage out and then return it to the energiser (Source). I don't know if there is an energiser that puts out AC but if it does I wouldn't use it. Who wants 8000 volts of AC at any amperage in the ground underneath their feet in the case of a fault? Electricity does not "go to ground" it goes back to its source. Don't believe me? Simply disconnect your negative wire at the energiser but leave the rest of your "ground system" intact and test it. I won't work because the electrical circuit is incomplete. The return path although it is initially travelling through the earth will quickly find the least resistant path back to the source (but it uses all paths). This will be via a metal stake or "ground rod" which is connected to the fence(probably) and near the touch point but insulated from the supply side. This is in the case of a "grounded system" but not in the case of a two wire system. Which simplifies the return path by using a separate return path instead of the earth. Note the return path still carries the current, but the voltage will be at zero volts. So the electricity does travel through the earth but only for short distanced until it can hitch a ride on a lower resistance path.
We don’t yet have LGA but predators are a significant issue here (fox, coyote, and bobcat), so I foresee a dog or donkey coming soon. If using electric netting for rotational grazing and also have a permanent perimeter fence, would you place the LGA inside the netting w/ sheep, or out of the netting but within the larger perimeter? TY!
What high-tensile wire spacing do you recommend for sheep in an area where there is some coyote pressure? Same question if we decide to add goats? Thank you very for your excellent video.
So I have a 6 foot block wall where neighbor dogs are actually getting up on it and wall walking the top before entering my yard. I was considering a line or two of electric fence centered atop the wall. However, it sounds like the animal must be in contact with the ground to get a good zap. Is there any way for me to get that for animals that wall walk?
I would think the current would conduct through the block wall to the ground. If not run two wires close together, one energized and the other grounded. When they touch both, it will get them.
Adding ground rods are you only putting them close to your charger? Or do you space them out around your fence and run a single wire for ground to the ground rods? Also would using a wire for your ground be a compliment to your ground rods?
I’m only putting ground rods close to the charger. What I’ve read is to put them close to charger spaced at least 10’ apart. I don’t know answer about using a wire to compliment ground rods.
Electric fencing works great for sheep (better than with goats). Once sheep are trained to it, I can leave mine off for months without them trying to get out.
With sheep, I leave top wire off so I can step over it without getting shocked. I with 5 wires, bottom wire hot, 2nd from ground grounded, 3rd and 4th hot, 5th (top) off.
@@rollingofarm Thanks for your response. I hadn't thought about stepping over. Merry Xmas. I'm a couple of years out from having sheep since initially I will be focused on housing, septic, etc, and then getting perimeter fencing in. I am really just looking at resilience, since I'll never pay off the fencing with my personal consumption of lamb unless thing really get desperate . But it is an asset, so hopefully it will benefit my kids when they sell the property.
How can you have so many different pastures with having two species? I have Kikos and Savannas and have to keep separated and separated within the species for babies, yearlings, adults and males. ALSO, where do you sell your slaughter animals? Thanks so much
I usually run all my goats together (unless I’m trying to keep a pure Kiko herd or pure Boer herd. But usually I have cross breeds), and sometime run goats and sheep together in same pasture. Other than trying to control breeding, I have not found many problems with having everything together. For animals going to slaughter, I have a friend who is a buyer who usually gets them. However there are a couple of larger sales near me that have pretty good market prices.
We have had worms in our heard we have lost 4 one we got from you I think we got control of them now there are a few that have a cough is that a issue of the worms or something else
Usually if the grass is dry enough to burn it will not have enough moisture to conduct a current even if touching the fence. However there can be a danger if the fence is down or shorting so that it is causing a spark that can ignite dry grass.
From tenacious horses to dogs, I've found once an animal hits that fence and gets zapped, they never ever cross it again. For people who think it's cruel... All my dogs and horses are safe ony ranch, and my neighbors have lost all kinds of animals to cars and traffic thinking a 1 second shock is too cruel
You know a lot about electric fences. Can you tell me why mine is too weak or what I need to do in order to keep smaller rodents out like squirrels, rats, and rabbits? They are destroying my garden. Here is my video showing the problem. I have since added 3 more lines of aluminum wire and it's still too weak. My ground is a 8' copper pole 6' in the ground by a water spigot so it's also wet. When I touch it, it only feels like a static electricity shock....nothing that startles me. ua-cam.com/video/QRoo5FhQg5A/v-deo.htmlsi=SqVV_YAQ6tg2n8GK
You have done a lot of work and your fence looks good. First thing I would do is test the charger disconnect from the fence. If it is producing a powerful shock , then you know it is your fence and not your charger. Could be the charger is too weak for that much wire (but I would not think it should be). Maybe something is ground out somewhere bleeding off the charge. That is where I would start.
Please don't waste our time with usless introductions when I already know what the video is about from the title. And we don't need the background noise/music. For those reasons, I was going to give a thumbs down but the video was so informative, you get a tumbs up.
While clearing vegetation on an electric fence is listed as a con, it’s actually a blessing in disguise. Most guys in my area build woven wire or barbed wire fences and after 10-20 years of zero vegetation control trees and brush take it over completely and in many cases the whole thing has to be torn out with an excavator if you want to clean it up.
Also, I think the American version of High tensile fences don’t emphasize the physical barrier component enough. The New Zealanders have it right in that regard, I think for cattle a 5 wire fence is the minimum and for sheep 7 wire is superb. Going up to 8 or 9 wires is a marginal cost difference and can give you the benefit of electric deterrent as well as a formidable physical barrier. You can still keep posts spaced 25 feet or so but adding a batten/dropper between posts can further tighten the wires for relatively low additional cost.
Useful thoughts. Thanks
Excellent video - thanks! You are an exceptionally clear-minded and effective communicator.
Wow, thank you!
Yes!
I've watched countless electric fence videos this week, as I have a goat that is apparently an ancestor of Houdini. I can NOT keep that blasted goat in the fence. So, I've been trying to get tips on how to make my fence better. This is, by far, one of the best videos I've seen regarding electric fencing. Simple, to the point, and easy to understand. Thank you for the awesome video, and information!
Thank you for the kind words. You know what they say, “if a fence will hold water, it will hold a goat” 😂
I love my electric fencing!! Keeps bad stuff out, and good stuff in.
A first class video. Should be used in Ag Schools.
Thanks!
Prayers for keeping that O rolling. Specific, clear and useful information. Best of health.
Thank you!
Great videos in general and this one is one of your best. One point you should have stressed a bit is the fence MUST BE CHARGED! Unless and while you are working on it. I lost a beautiful ewe that got tangled in a de-energized fence overnight and strangled herself. The sheep and dogs had become so respectful of the hot fence I assumed it was not necessary to keep it powered up.
Now I have a combination of hard wire field fences with cross fencing that cost about $8k covering about 2-3 acres. Im adding 3 acres of electric fence and use energized netting to move cross fences within that pasture. The cost should be right around $600 not including the charger I have already.
You are right! I lost three ewe lambs in portable netting when a fallen tree grounded out my fence while I was gone on vacation. Netting needs to be charged!
This was a very informative video. I appreciate how you broke this down into segments and clearly explained them.
Glad it was helpful!
I also recommend the power wizard after talking to someone who repairs chargers for a living. He stated that they were among the most well built units on the market.
Gallagher are a very reliable energizer also
Most informative, straight to the point video I've found so far. Thanks for your help!
Thank you!
City boy here, first time on your station. Being a retired Electrician I guessing at a gate you might bury 3/4 PVC pipes and pull the ground and Hot through.
Good suggestion! Thanks
I been useing the electric rope with a solar charger for about 5 years for cross fencing no problems.
I just watched another video and it was like going to a grade school presentation designed to help the children with there lack of attention span and was redundant. Basicly it sucked and was anoying. The very opposite of your well thought out and well explained presentation. I give you a A+
Thanks!
Awesome video! Great job explaining everything so clearly and precisely
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you! I was looking at electric fence products today and found your video informative.
Great! Glad it was useful.
Thanks this video was exactly what I was looking for,you have a new subscriber 😊
Thanks for the sub!
Very clearly organized and presented
Glad you liked it
Thanks for the video. You answered some questions that I didn't even know I had.
Thanks
Love your video, appreciate the help!
Glad it helped!
I have a horse that I can keep in with a single line. I don't even have to have the whole thing energized. So long as a segment is hot, she won't go near it. However, the goats are different. I prefer a solid fence for them at night. I don't want to take chances.
I completely understand.
@@rollingofarm Do you have an email address?
@@rollingofarm hey , if we went with a solid fence , & we added a electric fence where would u add , inside paddock or outside ?
In my situation I have woods behind paddock . So I’m trying to figure if I should add inside or outside
Another great video. Thanks Lonnie.
Thank you.
A very well done video. Thanks.
Glad you liked it!
Very good video. Thumbs up and subed.
Thanks.
Fantastic video! Thank you.
Glad you liked it!
I see fencing supplies not explained like rubber around posts and what type of high tensel wire to purchase, grounding wire, and grounding posts options?
Great point!
good video but keep in mind the voltage you are dealing with reg. romex house wire is only good for 600 volt and in time will break down and short out ,I know it happen to me and could have burned down my barn
Loved the video very informative, and I have watched a few. One question what’s your spacing for t posts to wood posts? I noticed as you were walking you had large wood posts.
On field fence, I space my T post every 10’ for goats and sheep (8’ for cattle), with wood post every 100’ or in a major dip or rise.
For high tensile, I space them every 20’, with a wood post only on major dips or rises.
Your videos are always informative and professional. How do you run it from the shop to the fence?
An insulated underground wire.
@@rollingofarm I would love to see a video of you explaining or actually physically burying the lines.
I'm assuming you have one main line going from the Energizer, buried underground to the pastures, and then auxiliary lines connected between this main line and the various fences? This underground network of insulated cable to the various connection points of different fences/pastures on the same property is something that is missing on UA-cam.
Your explanations are articulate and cogent, and the fashion in which you conduct your work is similarly efficient.
I'd like to see an explanation from you on this deceivingly simple topic; once digging and electricity are involved, things can become a huge complicated pain in the buttocks.
Brilliant video and so very informative. 1 question..can I connect the system to the grounding rod of a utility pole if I can't get a rod deep enough due to rocky soil?
My understanding is you should not use a grounding system for anything else (building, power lines, well, etc). I don’t know all the reasons why.
Doing this won't work. What is referred to as a ground is actually the return path to the battery or AC source. There is no ground. You either have a positive and negative in the case of DC or a hot and neutral in the case of AC. They are fundamentally the same. They carry the voltage out and then return it to the energiser (Source). I don't know if there is an energiser that puts out AC but if it does I wouldn't use it. Who wants 8000 volts of AC at any amperage in the ground underneath their feet in the case of a fault?
Electricity does not "go to ground" it goes back to its source. Don't believe me? Simply disconnect your negative wire at the energiser but leave the rest of your "ground system" intact and test it. I won't work because the electrical circuit is incomplete.
The return path although it is initially travelling through the earth will quickly find the least resistant path back to the source (but it uses all paths). This will be via a metal stake or "ground rod" which is connected to the fence(probably) and near the touch point but insulated from the supply side. This is in the case of a "grounded system" but not in the case of a two wire system. Which simplifies the return path by using a separate return path instead of the earth.
Note the return path still carries the current, but the voltage will be at zero volts. So the electricity does travel through the earth but only for short distanced until it can hitch a ride on a lower resistance path.
Great info.
Glad it was helpful!
Great video
Thanks
Do you have to do anything special with the running end of the electric fence.
I’m sorry I don’t fully understand your question.
We don’t yet have LGA but predators are a significant issue here (fox, coyote, and bobcat), so I foresee a dog or donkey coming soon. If using electric netting for rotational grazing and also have a permanent perimeter fence, would you place the LGA inside the netting w/ sheep, or out of the netting but within the larger perimeter? TY!
Normally you want the LGD with the sheep. That being said, mine doesn’t stay with them. She patrols the outer paddocks.
That upgraded Power Wizard model looks identical to the Dare DPP 9600 24 joule charger made In Michigan.
I wonder if Dare is just relabeled, of visa versa?
@@rollingofarm had the same thought 😁
What high-tensile wire spacing do you recommend for sheep in an area where there is some coyote pressure? Same question if we decide to add goats? Thank you very for your excellent video.
I use 5 strand.
Bottom strand 6-8” off ground
Next 6” above bottom strand.
3rd strand 6” above 2nd.
4th strand 8” above 3rd.
5th strand 10” above 4th.
Do cattle electric too
Good info. Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
muy útil su video !!
So I have a 6 foot block wall where neighbor dogs are actually getting up on it and wall walking the top before entering my yard. I was considering a line or two of electric fence centered atop the wall. However, it sounds like the animal must be in contact with the ground to get a good zap. Is there any way for me to get that for animals that wall walk?
I would think the current would conduct through the block wall to the ground. If not run two wires close together, one energized and the other grounded. When they touch both, it will get them.
Would there be any issue with using a charger that’s oversized? ie: 18joule 300mile charger for 2.5miles of wire
Not that I’m aware of.
I think Cyclops has a higher joule charger. Have you had any experience with the Cyclops brand?
I have not had experience with cyclops chargers, but I’ve heard good things about them.
Thanks for your information! What state are you in?
Alabama
Hello how far apart are your post and what was your ratio of wooden post to T post
Off level ground I run my post 20' apart with a wood post every 5 T-posts. On uneven ground, it varies depending on the dips or crests.
@@rollingofarm thank you
Adding ground rods are you only putting them close to your charger? Or do you space them out around your fence and run a single wire for ground to the ground rods? Also would using a wire for your ground be a compliment to your ground rods?
I’m only putting ground rods close to the charger. What I’ve read is to put them close to charger spaced at least 10’ apart. I don’t know answer about using a wire to compliment ground rods.
What do y’all recommend with sheep? Planning on getting all registered stock would want to know what works best for y’all thanks
Electric fencing works great for sheep (better than with goats). Once sheep are trained to it, I can leave mine off for months without them trying to get out.
Do you have all of your wires hot, or do you intermix hot and ground wires?
With sheep, I leave top wire off so I can step over it without getting shocked. I with 5 wires, bottom wire hot, 2nd from ground grounded, 3rd and 4th hot, 5th (top) off.
@@rollingofarm Thanks for your response. I hadn't thought about stepping over. Merry Xmas. I'm a couple of years out from having sheep since initially I will be focused on housing, septic, etc, and then getting perimeter fencing in. I am really just looking at resilience, since I'll never pay off the fencing with my personal consumption of lamb unless thing really get desperate . But it is an asset, so hopefully it will benefit my kids when they sell the property.
How can you have so many different pastures with having two species? I have Kikos and Savannas and have to keep separated and separated within the species for babies, yearlings, adults and males. ALSO, where do you sell your slaughter animals? Thanks so much
I usually run all my goats together (unless I’m trying to keep a pure Kiko herd or pure Boer herd. But usually I have cross breeds), and sometime run goats and sheep together in same pasture. Other than trying to control breeding, I have not found many problems with having everything together.
For animals going to slaughter, I have a friend who is a buyer who usually gets them. However there are a couple of larger sales near me that have pretty good market prices.
We have had worms in our heard we have lost 4 one we got from you I think we got control of them now there are a few that have a cough is that a issue of the worms or something else
I don’t think the cough would be caused by worms (unless it is lung worms, which I’ve never had a problem with). Any snotty noses?
@@rollingofarm no snotty noise
I don’t usually worry too much about a cough unless there is snotty noses or labored breathing.
@rollingofarm OK thanks
Timeless fence post no insulators
is there a risk of weeds touching the electric fence and starting a fire????
Usually if the grass is dry enough to burn it will not have enough moisture to conduct a current even if touching the fence. However there can be a danger if the fence is down or shorting so that it is causing a spark that can ignite dry grass.
From tenacious horses to dogs, I've found once an animal hits that fence and gets zapped, they never ever cross it again. For people who think it's cruel... All my dogs and horses are safe ony ranch, and my neighbors have lost all kinds of animals to cars and traffic thinking a 1 second shock is too cruel
is electric fence safe for chickens?
Yes. I have electric poultry netting that I keep chickens in. I’ve never had a problem.
@@rollingofarm Ah, I thought those were lower power. Thx
I just came here just to say that in your thumbnail you look like Red Green.
No RoundUp! Ever!
I’m open to alternatives. But if you have 15 miles of fence, weed eating is not feasible.
Send me the name of the electric fence charger And the address of it please
Roundup???? OMG we need saving from these people!!!
You know a lot about electric fences. Can you tell me why mine is too weak or what I need to do in order to keep smaller rodents out like squirrels, rats, and rabbits? They are destroying my garden. Here is my video showing the problem. I have since added 3 more lines of aluminum wire and it's still too weak. My ground is a 8' copper pole 6' in the ground by a water spigot so it's also wet. When I touch it, it only feels like a static electricity shock....nothing that startles me.
ua-cam.com/video/QRoo5FhQg5A/v-deo.htmlsi=SqVV_YAQ6tg2n8GK
You have done a lot of work and your fence looks good. First thing I would do is test the charger disconnect from the fence. If it is producing a powerful shock , then you know it is your fence and not your charger. Could be the charger is too weak for that much wire (but I would not think it should be). Maybe something is ground out somewhere bleeding off the charge. That is where I would start.
So why didn’t you go tell your neighbor their dog was in your pasture and let them come get it?
None of us knew it was in there.
fkn Roundup. seriously? spoiled it with that
Don't whiz on the electric fence
Nope! You will only do it once.
@@rollingofarm
Ren found out
My dogs smell it.
Goats and sheep do as well.
Please stop recommending people spray roundup / glyphosate onto their property for any reason. Get out and do the work with a weed eater.
I understand your concern and you may be correct in your concerns, but weed eating miles and miles of fencing is just not feasible.
*Zap*
Please don't waste our time with usless introductions when I already know what the video is about from the title. And we don't need the background noise/music. For those reasons, I was going to give a thumbs down but the video was so informative, you get a tumbs up.
Thanks the reluctant thumbs up, and I appreciate the feedback. I’ll keep that in mind on future videos.
@@rollingofarm good video but