EBI Is in fact one of the most crucial tube performance metrics. Equivalent Background Illumination (EBI) is the glow that you see when you put a cap on the objective so that no ambient light can reach the photocathode. In a tube with very low EBI (.1) when you cap the lens (with the training hole covered) you will see almost complete darkness. In a tube with an EBI of 1, when you cap the objective, there will be a bright, even green glow in the eyepiece. This glow is a masking glow that will wash out any detail that does not have sufficient signal strength (illumination) that will allow the tube to amplify it above the glow of the EBI. The EBI is a masking glow that will lower contrast and completely obscure detail when the signal level is extremely low. In very low light conditions, a tube with .1 EBI will produce an image that is extremely detailed with a .7 EBI tube is just showing vague shapes. In higher light situations EBI is not important unless it is very high (1.5 or greater maybe) but the more likely the tube is to be used in at threshold illumination levels, the more important having a low EBI becomes. I would never buy a $4000 device without knowing the EBI, and I would not own a tube that has to be used in extremely low light levels unless the EBI were in the .5 or lower range. I have owned 13 different night vision devices including two night vision binoculars, and in very low light situations, my lowest EBI tube (FOM 2000 with EBI of .1 and .2) have produced images when nothing else would. If you never observe in extremely low light situations (if your skies are semi-rural or brighter) then a low EBI may not be of any benefit to you, but if you are out in a rural area under a no-moon sky, a .5 EBI tube is going to run circles around a 1.5 EBI tube.
Bet, I should be going to the range here soon so I can definitely do that! I can also do a "whats in my pelican" type video if people are interested in that
@@RedactedGear Like go over your prep too, like do you load your msgs the night before and consolidate your gear before hand so your not wasting time, what kind of targets do you bring and use, what drills?
And here is an excellent video that lets the viewer visual EBI. ua-cam.com/video/kzVMwzoZwOQ/v-deo.html The first tube is an early Gen 3 aviation tube with a very low EBI (and an SN of maybe 21). Note that when the first video through the tube is show, the screen looks almost black when the objective lens is capped (with the training hole covered). When the illumination is increased, you can see the outline of the Pistol and ascertain some level of detail. The rear sight hump and the extension of the grip safety is clearly outlined. As the illumination is increased the finer detail emerges. The second tube is a later Omni VI aviation tube with an SN of 28, but the EBI is higher. In the first image from that tube, with the objective lens covered, you can see that the eyepiece is showing a very uniform green glow. This is the glow of high EBI. When the illumination is at the threshold, the pistol in the image is far more washed out and even the outline is not nearly as crisp and clear as the lower EBI tube. This is what EBI does, it imparts a uniform glow across the eyepiece, when the objective is completely covered and unless there is enough illumination in the environment to bring image above the brightness of the EBI, it will be difficult to see any detail. What this means is that if you go into really dark environments, even much lower SN tube with a very low EBI can still be showing an image when a tube with a much higher SN but a high EBI can't show an image. I would never personally want a tube with an EBI of higher than 1, and frankly, for me two want to own it, the EBI will have to be much lower than this. My best low light binocular only has FOM of 2000, but the EBI is .1 and .2, and in low light, either tube will easily outperform my 2600 FOM 37 SN tube that has EBI of .7. When you are gong to be in very dark conditions, a low EBI is vital to being able to see well.
I own everything Tactical/survival even an electric all wheel motor bicycle! Have a dedicated NV scope for a rifle but I don’t own NV goggles? I see arguments for single tube or binocular? What do you say? I don’t know where to start? Thanks, TJ
As far as helmet worn NV I would recommend a dual tube setup as they are more obtainable now then they were a couple years back in terms of cost. Duals offer some pretty good advantages over monos in terms of eye fatigue and "depth" perception, but you do gain some weight since you have two tubes, sets of glass and so on. If you wanted to chat some more NightFall Solutions on Instagram is always helping people source and find what works for them!
Id still get 15’s just because I had always wanted a set but other than nostalgia and my personal wants I would recommend a more current device, but the 15’s still put in work at night!
Smaller hole= more depth of focus = more clarity on things up close. Also, smaller hole = less light. My guess is his left eye is set for better focus up close, and his right is a more broad focus, which allows him to read things up close in one, and see brighter in another, where his brain creates one image with both those benefits
Anyone know what the small holes on the caps do? I’ve seen some team guys running the same thing. I know nothing about night vision. I’m just getting into the research.
Figure Of Merit, fancy way of saying tube performance. FOM = Resolution x SNR (Signal to Noise Ratio). SNR = Higher the better, low SNR will show a lot of feedback through the tube.
I don’t think your explanation of EBI is correct, first off good video man I enjoyed it. SNR is what effects your tubes at how dark it can be while producing an image. Static will block your image before EBI. Kinda, if you have high EBI it’s like a fog that covers your view in dark conditions. One of sets of NVGs has 37.3 SNR and .04 EBI the other tube has 37.6 but 1.5 EBI. And in black conditions one tube has a grey fog with some static and the other is super clear with some static. EBI doesn’t contribute anything to being able to see in the dark. It’s more of a cause and reaction; the better your tubes perform the higher the EBI can be. Now gems can have high specs with low fom. EBI is the photocathode literally producing its own electrons. Which in super dark conditions if your tube is making more photons than it’s receiving it can “mask” the image. EBI isn’t intensional, EBI should be the last spec your worried about. In my experience anything lower than. 1.2 isn’t going to be noticeable and for field use in combat 2.5 is the most allowed even on aviation tubes cause it doesn’t effect the tubes that much. If your pumping out 40 SNR with 72 LP or higher and say have 2.5 EBI, the tubes are so powerful even in the darkest conditions you won’t notice the EBI. The higher the SNR the harder it is for EBI to mask the image. At 40 SNR your tubes are pumping out and converting electrons so effectively, even if there is only a few photons floating around in the air your tubes are going to be able to multiply those photons 10s of millions of times and the glow from the photocathode (EBI) will be over powered by the conversion power of your MCP. I don’t know how well I’m explaining this but I hope everyone gets the point. This whole myth EBI is the most important spec is causing peiple to skip on some seriously powerful rare tubes. I’ve heard of guys skipping on 3100 fom tubes with no black spots because the EBI was 1.8 or something.. 3100 fom is insanely rare and those fuckibg tubes would be powerful enough to produce an image inside of a damn sewer. My tubes with 2700 plus fom can produce images in crazy places like my basement and compared to a couple other sets of tubes I have in thin filmed they can produce images in places the thin filmed are black. I could only imagine the power at 3100 fom.... that’s 42 SNR if the LP is 72
This is a really good comment I’m gonna pin this later, I’m no expert on every thing on NV so I really welcome comments like this. Thank you man seriously like comments that are honest and not just “you’re an idiot” 🏴☠️
@@RedactedGear absolutely man, There is a lot to know when it comes to NV. I’ve been using NV for about 10 years and I still learn stuff all the time. NV is secretive tech that companies guard. It’s hard to have a true understanding of anything in life without knowing exact details of how it works. Thankfully we are approaching times where NV knowledge is being shared. Videos like yours help people out a lot. Buying NV is just like buying Diamonds, if you don’t understand all the specs and values and what they mean, then someone is gonna rip you off and you will find out you could have bought super high speed gems for a similar price. I’ve witnessed so many guys get into NV and drop $7-$9 thousand and get tubes on the lower end just because they didn’t understand what they were looking at. This last year or so people have been pushing EBI as an important spec and misleading other people into buying some crap tubes merely because the EBI was low (I’m not talking about your video, you did a good job) If tubes are lower in spec like 29 snr then yes a higher EBI will start to effect them but that’s because SNR at 29 will struggle producing an image outside with no moon or stars. But 2376 fom which is 33 SNR give or take are so powerful they produce images indoors with nearly zero ambient light. EBI only effects tubes when the photocathode is producing more electrons than its capable of multiplying. If your tubes are powerful monsters then in most situations they will be multiplying more electrons than the photocathode is generating artificially. I recently have been reading post on NV forms of guys coming across 2800 to 3200 fom tubes and other dudes talking about the EBI being to high at like 1.8 and the SNR is at 40 and these guys passed on rare rare tubes. Apollo gear has an article on EBI and other specs that everyone should read
EBI Is far more important than you state. EBI sets the low light performance of a tube. I have a 2600 FOM but with .7 EBI and I have a tube with 2000 FOM and .1 EBI, and a 2000 FOM tube with a .2 EBI. Both of the 2000 FOM will still produce an image in dark conditions where my .7 EBI 2600 FOM tube just shows green fuzz. Just about any Gen 3 tube will produce a clear image when you are in an environment with ambient light, like a Semi-rural location, but on a dark night with no moon, a low EBI tube will produce and image when a high EBI unit will be jsut a green glow in the eyepiece.
And SN has zero bearing on how well a tube will perform at the threshold. EBI Is far more important than just a high SN. Here is a video that shows the difference between a low EBI and a high EBI tube ua-cam.com/video/kzVMwzoZwOQ/v-deo.html
@@shenmisheshou7002 no EBI absolutely does not set the low light performance. SNR set the low light performance. Go to Apollo gears website and read their article on EBI. SNR is literally how dark your tubes can produce an image In. EBI has nothing to do with seeing in the dark. All EBI is, is your photocathode producing its own electrons and this is not a good thing or a desired effect. Those electrons being produced by the photocathode basically cause a photonic barrier within the tube. If your tube was a window in your home, EBI is like having a light source from within your home that puts a glare on the window and SNR would be having a flashlight to push through the barrier caused by the light inside. Having a low EBI doesn’t mean you will see better in the dark, having a high SNR does however. But I’m sure the calculate the SNR and resolution to get the FOM for no good reason and obviously the guys that invented the tubes know way less than you and it should be judged off the EBI. EBI is the least important spec. I don’t believe you on either of those tubes just because of what you just said
Bruh I know, Pvs 15 guys are the worst. I did speak wrong on that, the 15's are an auto gain unit unlike 31's which are a manually adjusted gain! My apologies on that one!
EBI Is in fact one of the most crucial tube performance metrics. Equivalent Background Illumination (EBI) is the glow that you see when you put a cap on the objective so that no ambient light can reach the photocathode. In a tube with very low EBI (.1) when you cap the lens (with the training hole covered) you will see almost complete darkness. In a tube with an EBI of 1, when you cap the objective, there will be a bright, even green glow in the eyepiece. This glow is a masking glow that will wash out any detail that does not have sufficient signal strength (illumination) that will allow the tube to amplify it above the glow of the EBI. The EBI is a masking glow that will lower contrast and completely obscure detail when the signal level is extremely low. In very low light conditions, a tube with .1 EBI will produce an image that is extremely detailed with a .7 EBI tube is just showing vague shapes. In higher light situations EBI is not important unless it is very high (1.5 or greater maybe) but the more likely the tube is to be used in at threshold illumination levels, the more important having a low EBI becomes. I would never buy a $4000 device without knowing the EBI, and I would not own a tube that has to be used in extremely low light levels unless the EBI were in the .5 or lower range.
I have owned 13 different night vision devices including two night vision binoculars, and in very low light situations, my lowest EBI tube (FOM 2000 with EBI of .1 and .2) have produced images when nothing else would. If you never observe in extremely low light situations (if your skies are semi-rural or brighter) then a low EBI may not be of any benefit to you, but if you are out in a rural area under a no-moon sky, a .5 EBI tube is going to run circles around a 1.5 EBI tube.
I wanted to see a actual spec sheet and break each column and explain each column and say what is exceptional and what isn't
On my new set of nods I will do that, unfortunately my PVS15's did not come with a spec sheet since they were made in 2008 lmao
Bruv, I just watched you shake the hell out of this set of binos for ten minutes 😂
Thats my job lmao, people get shook when I throw them around
😂😂😂
What’s better manual or auto gain?
Should do a vid on how you train when it comes to prep to go to the range, necessities, what you take, what you work on etc.
Bet, I should be going to the range here soon so I can definitely do that! I can also do a "whats in my pelican" type video if people are interested in that
@@RedactedGear Like go over your prep too, like do you load your msgs the night before and consolidate your gear before hand so your not wasting time, what kind of targets do you bring and use, what drills?
Best video on night vision yet. Subscribing! Keep em coming!
And here is an excellent video that lets the viewer visual EBI. ua-cam.com/video/kzVMwzoZwOQ/v-deo.html
The first tube is an early Gen 3 aviation tube with a very low EBI (and an SN of maybe 21). Note that when the first video through the tube is show, the screen looks almost black when the objective lens is capped (with the training hole covered). When the illumination is increased, you can see the outline of the Pistol and ascertain some level of detail. The rear sight hump and the extension of the grip safety is clearly outlined. As the illumination is increased the finer detail emerges. The second tube is a later Omni VI aviation tube with an SN of 28, but the EBI is higher. In the first image from that tube, with the objective lens covered, you can see that the eyepiece is showing a very uniform green glow. This is the glow of high EBI. When the illumination is at the threshold, the pistol in the image is far more washed out and even the outline is not nearly as crisp and clear as the lower EBI tube.
This is what EBI does, it imparts a uniform glow across the eyepiece, when the objective is completely covered and unless there is enough illumination in the environment to bring image above the brightness of the EBI, it will be difficult to see any detail. What this means is that if you go into really dark environments, even much lower SN tube with a very low EBI can still be showing an image when a tube with a much higher SN but a high EBI can't show an image.
I would never personally want a tube with an EBI of higher than 1, and frankly, for me two want to own it, the EBI will have to be much lower than this. My best low light binocular only has FOM of 2000, but the EBI is .1 and .2, and in low light, either tube will easily outperform my 2600 FOM 37 SN tube that has EBI of .7. When you are gong to be in very dark conditions, a low EBI is vital to being able to see well.
Make a video on your kit, what you run/why you run it!🤙🏴
Say less.. 😎
Nice video. What is that cool battery holder?
The battery caddy on the Pvs15’s is made by Green Mountain Rangers (GMR Gear) they have AA and Cr123 variants available
@@RedactedGear thank you. That’s a cool website, I found a few extra items I needed.
I own everything Tactical/survival even an electric all wheel motor bicycle! Have a dedicated NV scope for a rifle but I don’t own NV goggles?
I see arguments for single tube or binocular? What do you say? I don’t know where to start?
Thanks,
TJ
As far as helmet worn NV I would recommend a dual tube setup as they are more obtainable now then they were a couple years back in terms of cost. Duals offer some pretty good advantages over monos in terms of eye fatigue and "depth" perception, but you do gain some weight since you have two tubes, sets of glass and so on. If you wanted to chat some more NightFall Solutions on Instagram is always helping people source and find what works for them!
@@RedactedGear
Thank you so much, one thinks he knows everything till he realizes he doesn’t! Appreciate the info. Will check out your referral!
TJ
Can you make a video discussing the damage that can be done to nvgs when exposed to bright light?
Great video, hope for more night vision content :)
Im looking at AGM gen 3....what does the 3AW1 and 3NL1 mean...noob over here needing some adivice
Great info.
If you could go back would you still purchase the pvs15 unit or would you go with something different.
15s are pretty antiquated at this point. Not a bad purchase at all but the support is diminishing, I would get more current housings if possible
Id still get 15’s just because I had always wanted a set but other than nostalgia and my personal wants I would recommend a more current device, but the 15’s still put in work at night!
thank you so much!
I heard u can actually see the algorithm while wearing gen 4's 👀 🤷🏼♂️
Facts 😂😂
Just don't try to dodge bullets midair haha
saving up for l3 harris 1531
You should do a video on night vision focus. Pros and cons of using the caps on the front. Why is one hole cut bigger than the other?
Smaller hole= more depth of focus = more clarity on things up close.
Also, smaller hole = less light.
My guess is his left eye is set for better focus up close, and his right is a more broad focus, which allows him to read things up close in one, and see brighter in another, where his brain creates one image with both those benefits
Anyone know what the small holes on the caps do? I’ve seen some team guys running the same thing. I know nothing about night vision. I’m just getting into the research.
I made a video on the holes in the caps! Check the channel
Carbine/handgun setup would be interesting
What the heck is “FOM”?
Figure Of Merit, fancy way of saying tube performance. FOM = Resolution x SNR (Signal to Noise Ratio). SNR = Higher the better, low SNR will show a lot of feedback through the tube.
Video on every piece of AOR1 you have when?
I don’t think your explanation of EBI is correct, first off good video man I enjoyed it. SNR is what effects your tubes at how dark it can be while producing an image. Static will block your image before EBI. Kinda, if you have high EBI it’s like a fog that covers your view in dark conditions. One of sets of NVGs has 37.3 SNR and .04 EBI the other tube has 37.6 but 1.5 EBI. And in black conditions one tube has a grey fog with some static and the other is super clear with some static. EBI doesn’t contribute anything to being able to see in the dark. It’s more of a cause and reaction; the better your tubes perform the higher the EBI can be. Now gems can have high specs with low fom. EBI is the photocathode literally producing its own electrons. Which in super dark conditions if your tube is making more photons than it’s receiving it can “mask” the image. EBI isn’t intensional, EBI should be the last spec your worried about. In my experience anything lower than. 1.2 isn’t going to be noticeable and for field use in combat 2.5 is the most allowed even on aviation tubes cause it doesn’t effect the tubes that much. If your pumping out 40 SNR with 72 LP or higher and say have 2.5 EBI, the tubes are so powerful even in the darkest conditions you won’t notice the EBI. The higher the SNR the harder it is for EBI to mask the image. At 40 SNR your tubes are pumping out and converting electrons so effectively, even if there is only a few photons floating around in the air your tubes are going to be able to multiply those photons 10s of millions of times and the glow from the photocathode (EBI) will be over powered by the conversion power of your MCP. I don’t know how well I’m explaining this but I hope everyone gets the point. This whole myth EBI is the most important spec is causing peiple to skip on some seriously powerful rare tubes. I’ve heard of guys skipping on 3100 fom tubes with no black spots because the EBI was 1.8 or something.. 3100 fom is insanely rare and those fuckibg tubes would be powerful enough to produce an image inside of a damn sewer. My tubes with 2700 plus fom can produce images in crazy places like my basement and compared to a couple other sets of tubes I have in thin filmed they can produce images in places the thin filmed are black. I could only imagine the power at 3100 fom.... that’s 42 SNR if the LP is 72
This is a really good comment I’m gonna pin this later, I’m no expert on every thing on NV so I really welcome comments like this. Thank you man seriously like comments that are honest and not just “you’re an idiot” 🏴☠️
@@RedactedGear absolutely man, There is a lot to know when it comes to NV. I’ve been using NV for about 10 years and I still learn stuff all the time. NV is secretive tech that companies guard. It’s hard to have a true understanding of anything in life without knowing exact details of how it works. Thankfully we are approaching times where NV knowledge is being shared. Videos like yours help people out a lot. Buying NV is just like buying Diamonds, if you don’t understand all the specs and values and what they mean, then someone is gonna rip you off and you will find out you could have bought super high speed gems for a similar price. I’ve witnessed so many guys get into NV and drop $7-$9 thousand and get tubes on the lower end just because they didn’t understand what they were looking at. This last year or so people have been pushing EBI as an important spec and misleading other people into buying some crap tubes merely because the EBI was low (I’m not talking about your video, you did a good job) If tubes are lower in spec like 29 snr then yes a higher EBI will start to effect them but that’s because SNR at 29 will struggle producing an image outside with no moon or stars. But 2376 fom which is 33 SNR give or take are so powerful they produce images indoors with nearly zero ambient light. EBI only effects tubes when the photocathode is producing more electrons than its capable of multiplying. If your tubes are powerful monsters then in most situations they will be multiplying more electrons than the photocathode is generating artificially. I recently have been reading post on NV forms of guys coming across 2800 to 3200 fom tubes and other dudes talking about the EBI being to high at like 1.8 and the SNR is at 40 and these guys passed on rare rare tubes. Apollo gear has an article on EBI and other specs that everyone should read
EBI Is far more important than you state. EBI sets the low light performance of a tube. I have a 2600 FOM but with .7 EBI and I have a tube with 2000 FOM and .1 EBI, and a 2000 FOM tube with a .2 EBI. Both of the 2000 FOM will still produce an image in dark conditions where my .7 EBI 2600 FOM tube just shows green fuzz. Just about any Gen 3 tube will produce a clear image when you are in an environment with ambient light, like a Semi-rural location, but on a dark night with no moon, a low EBI tube will produce and image when a high EBI unit will be jsut a green glow in the eyepiece.
And SN has zero bearing on how well a tube will perform at the threshold. EBI Is far more important than just a high SN. Here is a video that shows the difference between a low EBI and a high EBI tube ua-cam.com/video/kzVMwzoZwOQ/v-deo.html
@@shenmisheshou7002 no EBI absolutely does not set the low light performance. SNR set the low light performance. Go to Apollo gears website and read their article on EBI. SNR is literally how dark your tubes can produce an image In. EBI has nothing to do with seeing in the dark. All EBI is, is your photocathode producing its own electrons and this is not a good thing or a desired effect. Those electrons being produced by the photocathode basically cause a photonic barrier within the tube. If your tube was a window in your home, EBI is like having a light source from within your home that puts a glare on the window and SNR would be having a flashlight to push through the barrier caused by the light inside. Having a low EBI doesn’t mean you will see better in the dark, having a high SNR does however. But I’m sure the calculate the SNR and resolution to get the FOM for no good reason and obviously the guys that invented the tubes know way less than you and it should be judged off the EBI. EBI is the least important spec. I don’t believe you on either of those tubes just because of what you just said
Watching your hand shake around while you talk gives me motion sickness.
This would be a much nicer video feed learn to hold your hand still
If I dont move something a million times in a video then is it really a video? 😂
"fixed gain" WRONG. its auto gain. The tubes will auto gain the brightness. SMH never trust a guy talking about NV stuff who has a PVS-15
Bruh I know, Pvs 15 guys are the worst. I did speak wrong on that, the 15's are an auto gain unit unlike 31's which are a manually adjusted gain! My apologies on that one!
Man a lot of your info is incorrect or phrased poorly. It’s pronounced “sent till la shun”
My bad man, went off of Mod Armory's terms and definitions. Still learning
@@RedactedGear come to a Greenline class
Dm me the info Ill see if I can make it happen
for f*s sake stop shaking them all over the place
What if i drop them 😂
*Motion Sickness has entered the chat* good video @redactedgear just giving you shit