As an experienced brickie. Over 30 years experience his trying to do a tidy job but is way to slow first of all should be working say half a sq metre at a time complete all perp ends first .. Use a pointing trowel to fill wider. Joints bigger than 10mm press mortar well to the back of the joint (to avoid a void between old and new,mortar. I counted 9 swipes at filling one perp end this is fees able on price jobs.one to. 3swipes maximum, his also over working the joints in the deeper joints better to leave a couple . Minutes for the moisture to be absorbed before going over it. When pointing looking to complete a metre per hour . Did he dampen the wall properly. On an exposed elevation such as that he wood be better of using a weather struck joint as this. Allows water to run of the wall easier,however not a bad effort.
Hi thanks a lot I really appreciate it I get a lot of heat from people on this video for some reason. I was going slow because it’s a how to video to show people how to LOL
Thanks for the tips, I had a small area to re-point, and your tips about keeping the mortar the same height as the tool was critical to me being able to do it without creating a mess!
I think a 2-1 mix is smart for this scenario instead of 3-1. But why Portland, here in Canada we use portland mostly for concrete, Type S for masonry and Type N for clay brick like in your video. Also do you ever put Acrilic Resin Bond (milk) in your mix, why or why not. Great vid, only guy on UA-cam who is professional at it. I assume a job like that is Time and Material? - How would you accurately estimate that, right? We can always use skilled guys like you in Toronto if you ever are looking for a change of scenery
so nice to see someone taking pride in what they do instead of just slapping it in. If you don't splat the face face of the brick you don't have to clean it afterwards. Very nice work sir, very neat.
"They say high work ain't eye work but...I'm standing right here. And I can see it." - this quote sums up this guy's integrity nicely. Shame that his ethic is getting harder to come by.
thanks a lot I really appreciate it that means a lot to me that's why I uploaded the video to help people. good luck and you could always send me a picture so I can see how you did. But thanks again I really appreciate that comment just made my day
I’m a contractor in Philly live right near the stadium’s. Great job! Love to see pros that know what they’re doing. Idk if you work for yourself or for a company but I’m always in looking to do business with quality craftsman
This man cares about what he is doing. I expect he has created some very smart work with the attitude & approach he has towards his craft. Great to see.
Best video that I have seen on pointing. Excellent tips from someone who you can tell, takes great pride in his work. Thank you for posting this video.
Yea, after seeing the skill and patience it takes, I think I'll call a Pro. Thanks equally as much for helping me make the right decision for my home repairs, I owe ya one.
I learned a some of hawk and pointing tool technique. Thanks for the pointers. My old house has soft brick, so I have to use lime mortar. Very little if any Portland can be used. If I elect to use a bit of Portland, it has to be white Portland to match the original lime mortar.
See that's what I'm talking about! Looking and looking, and then I come across this. I'm thinking why is everyone getting the mortar on the bricks and messing it all up ugly? Then I see this video. Ok, this guy's a professional! He's doing a historical building. That says it all. No mess on the bricks, clean work! Thanks for sharing the right way man! Very nice job. Before I saw your video I was thinking of trying a cake frosting mix bag to squeeze in the mortar, then point, on same thing on my house. Is this something you ever do or no? Thanks a lot.
Great work. I have done brickwork much the same way you have shown, with the exception I prefer using a longer tuck pointer with a handle to do bed joints, and similar tuck pointer to yours for the head joints. A lot of people seem to be critical of speed in repointing, but the reality is quality and neatness don't go hand in hand with speed. Sure time is money, but at the same time a bad masonry repoint ruins the look of brick. Older buildings deserve the best in care and quality. Nothings sadder to me than seeing a old building with grinder cut marks all over the bricks, sloppy mortar all over, and a overall lack of attention to detail.
You keep working hard, and continue taking pride in and putting your all in what you do. It will not go unnoticed. I guarantee it. And don't be afraid to ask for compensation for what you know your worth. Take care man, God bless you...
Fantastic video thanks very much. I've watched loads of UK pointing videos and no one takes as much care as you. I'm just re pointing my garage and will follow your tips. Lovely to see someone take so much pride. 👍
That’s because they’re used to working to a price of about £30/m2 and you have to work fast to make any wonga. I’m guessing the video is work being done by the hour, as the finish has been deemed to be all important. Plus pointing in the UK use much less stiff mortar mixes, typically 1 part cement, 1 part lime, to 6 parts sand, which is easier to work with. The 1:2 cement sand mix being used in the video would be far too stiff for the usual facing brick used in the UK.
@@Benzknees But the videos are being specifically made for the DIY person as any pro would would already know what to do and is not paid anything as they are doing it for themselves 😉
Man, this looks like the right way to point. After watching this, you can't help but cringe at the embarrassing way most other videos on UA-cam show brick pointing done (basically slop it on with a trowel and try and wipe it off a bit).
Dude! Beautiful job Nice and clean. I hope people watching realize there is a lot more to this. Been doing this myself for about 6 years ,people don't realize how hard it is to keep it clean or it looks like crap when it dries. Nobody ever shows in ANY of the videos how well there mortar matched after it was all dry. Mortar matching is an art in itself .
Absolutely great advice in this video brother you also live in philly like me , I been watching your videos because I got a interview with local 1, i specifically applied for PCC (for those who don't know I'm talking about the bricklayers union and specifically the point caulk and cleaner position in the union) I'm 22 hoping to get a 4 year apprenticeship so your videos make me feel just a little bit better about doing this work thank you for giving advise bro your a great pointer
thanks a lot I really appreciate it that means a lot I love it when I get a good comment. Also good luck I hope everything works out please let me know if you get it keep me updated thanks. And don't forget to like And subscribe LOL
You ever move to Wisconsin, I have a job for you. I only want individuals who take pride in their work. This quality is more rare than you may believe. You are worth a descent wage. You should be proud of yourself. I need more people like you who I can trust and who reflect the pride I have in the company I have worked hard to create.
Francis, what do you think to the ‘hand injection bag method’ (bag like used with icing sugar). What is the mortar, is sand to Portland cement in a ratio of 5:1 ok for chimney, or is a stronger 3:1 better ? How deep should I remove old mortar from joint, eg 1/2 inch ?thanks for sharing.
Wow good for you sir.Nice to see there are still people taking pride in their work as opposed to just collecting a cheque. Have to say i would not have the steady hands 5 stories up. I do a little bit of tuckpointing but only on the ground.
I just finished my first day of my pre apprenticeship program, it’s a lot to take in at first and I hope I can grow quickly. We’ll actually get to work with brick and mortar tomorrow so I’ll see how it goes, love the passion and art that goes with it
Amazing quality work and skill you provide. Wishing you could do my home here in Philly. Can't seem to find anyone willing to do good pointing like this. Thank you also for providing such an informative video. If I wasn't 65 I would attempt this myself. LOL
Portland is ordinary portland cement, 2 to 1 is 2x sand by ratio to 1 cement which is one hell of a strong mix, but he is high up and exposed, the sand im guessing is soft sand ( builders sand ) not grit sand (sharp sand) which would be used with lime nhl 3.5 or a 5 if high and exposed if pointing on a soft brick, like a victorian clamp brick, which was originally built using lime mortar, the mortar should always be softer than the brick ( sacraficial)
Francis - I am going to attempt to do my own brick pointing. You mention Portland Mortar 2 to 1.... Is that 2 parts mortar and 1 part water? Also, what are all the tools needed to get the job done? I have to fill gaps and also replace a horrible job a previous contractor did. Thank you for your time!
Hey nice work.... I have learned over the years u mist the joints the make a dry mix and just puah it off the hawk no joke its ten times faster with barley and mess... maybe way it a lui more for the head joints.... but im sure u have to use sure clean on it regaurdless right... historical society wants it perfect... good job mate.... must be good money also
francis sciarrillo a 12" brick trowel. preferably the Philadelphia style, but the London style works too. .. I'm a brick, block, and stone mason with over 30 years experience.
No problem. I do contracting stuff for home maintenance and it's instructional videos like yours that taught me what I know about masonry and drywall installation.
When you are grinding out are you using the grinder all the way to the top and bottom of the brick beds or are you hand chiseling after you make a slice in the joint? I find that if you use the grinder you can't help just just barely shave some of the brick itself
Francis, if you did notice a bit of mortar say 12 to 24 hours later on a brick, how could you remove it? Would you use hot water and a stiff brush or something stronger like acid and water mixed at a specific ratio? Thanks!
hey cool video, i do brick pointing in australia.. Do you think it is quicker and easier to use a mortar gun?? in australia we have problems with matching old and new mortar colours no one can do it right. do u have this problem in USA??
I'm getting ready to do the brick on my house and this was a great learning video. As I can see you do I also take pride in my work or anything I do. May I ask what would be the best weather conditions to do this? Thanks for the video and fantastic work!!
@@francissciarrillo8691 a lot of money in brick pointing if u have the skill. Every1 thinks it's easy it's not but if u have the technique why not make money doing it. How much do u get a square foot?
Thank you for the thread,but I have thinner joints than this. I'm good with larger pointing joints,but these tight ones are near impossible. Any special techniques?
Because all the pointers in the area always do a two-to-one and it lasts a long time I've seen fronts done 25 years ago with 2 2 1 I'll do 3 to 1 if I'm doing an inside wall
I worked for a company out of MN that did restoration just like you.. honestly I think I enjoyed setting up the swingstages more than tuck pointing from one lol
Fuck that man I hate carrying weights around on a roof one job we had 250 50 pound weights we had to move around on top of a courthouse and all the laborers in the local hall were busy or at least that’s probably what they said so they didn’t have to hall weights around all night it was a night job to it sucked dick we had to carry our own shit around to many weights for that shit when we had to move 4 stages but each stage crew was moving there own at that point would have been nice with a few labors carrying the weights though we didn’t have enough man power most jobs are nice with swing stages but we were washing not Beauno
in a place like that the only person to see his quality workmanship will be the next guy who point the bricks decades down the road and he will say "boy the person who pointed this sure did a good job"...i hope the next guy isn't a hack
Good work. However i am surprised you are using Portland cement with bricks. I would have used lime which is more flexible and less hard to the bricks.
It is motivating that he is going the job right in a place that most people will probably never be able to see (he is up on a hoist with a safety harness, so it is likely in spots no one will ever see).
I wasn't trying to be negative. I was admiring the attention to detail you were taking in a place most people would do a half ass job (a place no one would ever see). You do good work.
What artistry! Francis a 2:1 mix seems excessive to me - is this because of a requirement with this specific job? As far as I understand that after a certain ratio (around 5:1) there is only a minimal increase in hardness when this ratio is strengthened (in this case 2:1) and minimal change in permeability (water resistance) or exposure to frost damage. Please enlighten me further. Also if you're mixing with such a low volume of sand in the mix doesn't the colour appear to have a more 'greeny brown' cement shade rather than the traditional and more 'historic' buff colour with the 5:1 or weaker mixes? Or are you adding any buff/beige colourant to the mix? or any other admixture? Again..., job well done my friend!!!
David Smuts 2:1 is stonger than any type s mortar used to build commercial brick buildings. 5:1 portland sand is not a proper mix either. 6:1:1 or 9:1:2 would be acceptable mixes. for example, 6 parts well graded mason sand, 1 part portland cement, 1 part type s hydrated lime. A 2:1 portland /sand ratio would damage a wall within months ,usually the first freeze/thaw. Also when dealing with lime built historic buildings, cement products should never be used.
Actually one of the first video's I've seen someone not smear the bricks all over, and showing that neat work simply costs time. Thanks.
As an experienced brickie. Over 30 years experience his trying to do a tidy job but is way to slow first of all should be working say half a sq metre at a time complete all perp ends first .. Use a pointing trowel to fill wider. Joints bigger than 10mm press mortar well to the back of the joint (to avoid a void between old and new,mortar. I counted 9 swipes at filling one perp end this is fees able on price jobs.one to. 3swipes maximum, his also over working the joints in the deeper joints better to leave a couple . Minutes for the moisture to be absorbed before going over it. When pointing looking to complete a metre per hour . Did he dampen the wall properly.
On an exposed elevation such as that he wood be better of using a weather struck joint as this. Allows water to run of the wall easier,however not a bad effort.
Yes his pointing efforts look tedious, I too used a pointing trowel and if necessary a bucket handle to finish off , I preferred flush pointing 😊
Looks good for a DIY project were you aren't on the clock and have plenty of time. I agree, looks too slow for commercial work.
there is craft in those hands, and concern in the heart, bravo
Killer video and work ethic man, we need more people like you who take pride in their work!
Hi thanks a lot I really appreciate it I get a lot of heat from people on this video for some reason. I was going slow because it’s a how to video to show people how to LOL
Thanks for the tips, I had a small area to re-point, and your tips about keeping the mortar the same height as the tool was critical to me being able to do it without creating a mess!
thanks a lot everybody I really appreciate it I take a lot of pride in what I do thanks
Frank, please let me know the exact mix. including bonding agent, thanks, Bob
Many kudos to you Frank.
I think a 2-1 mix is smart for this scenario instead of 3-1. But why Portland, here in Canada we use portland mostly for concrete, Type S for masonry and Type N for clay brick like in your video. Also do you ever put Acrilic Resin Bond (milk) in your mix, why or why not. Great vid, only guy on UA-cam who is professional at it. I assume a job like that is Time and Material? - How would you accurately estimate that, right?
We can always use skilled guys like you in Toronto if you ever are looking for a change of scenery
Do you do work in Montgomery County?
@@adelpero12 try 4:1
so nice to see someone taking pride in what they do instead of just slapping it in. If you don't splat the face face of the brick you don't have to clean it afterwards. Very nice work sir, very neat.
thanks a lot I really appreciate it I take great pride in my work
Finally, someone who takes there time and gets more cement in the joints and not on the brick face or on the floor 👍
billy bodgit Thank you
"They say high work ain't eye work but...I'm standing right here. And I can see it." - this quote sums up this guy's integrity nicely. Shame that his ethic is getting harder to come by.
Good saying plus a good mason as well
Thank you for the video. This is the neatest tuck pointing that I've seen. Great job!
Thanks very much that means a lot to me
Looks great Francis. I can see the pride, heart and care in your work. And you taught me a few things for my 90 year old home.
thanks a lot I really appreciate it that means a lot to me that's why I uploaded the video to help people. good luck and you could always send me a picture so I can see how you did. But thanks again I really appreciate that comment just made my day
I’m a contractor in Philly live right near the stadium’s. Great job! Love to see pros that know what they’re doing. Idk if you work for yourself or for a company but I’m always in looking to do business with quality craftsman
Craftsmanship always shows, fantastic job, keep up your standards regardless of what people say, Craftsmanship is Craftsmanship!!
Jeff Bilbrough thanks
"I'm standing right here...I can see it." 👍🏼 Outstanding at fifty feet up shows no compromising in my book. 👍🏼
This man cares about what he is doing. I expect he has created some very smart work with the attitude & approach he has towards his craft. Great to see.
Richard Parkins thanks I appreciate it
Best video that I have seen on pointing. Excellent tips from someone who you can tell, takes great pride in his work. Thank you for posting this video.
Great quality work. You're kind of like a dentist for buildings.
Yea, after seeing the skill and patience it takes, I think I'll call a Pro. Thanks equally as much for helping me make the right decision for my home repairs, I owe ya one.
Francis very nice work. I always think brick work is an art
georgeEPC thanks
You are awesome Francis. I admire your work and can see you take great pride in what you do!
I learned a some of hawk and pointing tool technique. Thanks for the pointers. My old house has soft brick, so I have to use lime mortar. Very little if any Portland can be used. If I elect to use a bit of Portland, it has to be white Portland to match the original lime mortar.
See that's what I'm talking about! Looking and looking, and then I come across this. I'm thinking why is everyone getting the mortar on the bricks and messing it all up ugly? Then I see this video. Ok, this guy's a professional! He's doing a historical building. That says it all. No mess on the bricks, clean work! Thanks for sharing the right way man! Very nice job. Before I saw your video I was thinking of trying a cake frosting mix bag to squeeze in the mortar, then point, on same thing on my house. Is this something you ever do or no? Thanks a lot.
Very nice... A true craftsman .. Your skill and experience shows as much as your pride in doing a quality job.
thanks a lot I really appreciate it nothing makes me more happy than a positive comment thank you
Great work. I have done brickwork much the same way you have shown, with the exception I prefer using a longer tuck pointer with a handle to do bed joints, and similar tuck pointer to yours for the head joints. A lot of people seem to be critical of speed in repointing, but the reality is quality and neatness don't go hand in hand with speed. Sure time is money, but at the same time a bad masonry repoint ruins the look of brick. Older buildings deserve the best in care and quality. Nothings sadder to me than seeing a old building with grinder cut marks all over the bricks, sloppy mortar all over, and a overall lack of attention to detail.
You sound like your the first one layed off when it gets close to winter lmfao 🤣
You keep working hard, and continue taking pride in and putting your all in what you do. It will not go unnoticed. I guarantee it. And don't be afraid to ask for compensation for what you know your worth. Take care man, God bless you...
A true artist! This guy has the right stuff!!
Fantastic video thanks very much. I've watched loads of UK pointing videos and no one takes as much care as you. I'm just re pointing my garage and will follow your tips. Lovely to see someone take so much pride. 👍
Thanks
That’s because they’re used to working to a price of about £30/m2 and you have to work fast to make any wonga. I’m guessing the video is work being done by the hour, as the finish has been deemed to be all important.
Plus pointing in the UK use much less stiff mortar mixes, typically 1 part cement, 1 part lime, to 6 parts sand, which is easier to work with. The 1:2 cement sand mix being used in the video would be far too stiff for the usual facing brick used in the UK.
@@Benzknees But the videos are being specifically made for the DIY person as any pro would would already know what to do and is not paid anything as they are doing it for themselves 😉
@@argonaut6386 - Maybe, but they’re still showing how they would do it as a pro. Plus, in the UK rain is never far away, so you have to work fast!
@@argonaut6386 It’s a how to video. If you’re going to teach your kids how to drive you don’t go 120 miles an hour down the road you start slow
Beautiful workmanship.
Man, this looks like the right way to point. After watching this, you can't help but cringe at the embarrassing way most other videos on UA-cam show brick pointing done (basically slop it on with a trowel and try and wipe it off a bit).
Geoff Cheshire thanks
this is amazing I am so in awe right now I know this takes skill great work in sharing your art
thanks
Labourers do this in England, not much skill really.
r3d3y3si agreed but there is skill to doing a clean & tidy job, most labourers just lash it.
@ on big sites maybe, that wouldn't wash on private job's customers would not pay.
Love watching a pro at work, thanks for the tips.
This guy is a true perfectionist and skilled artist!
This guys the best I've seen on UA-cam
Jamie Watkinson thanks
Np bro just speak the truth
great video, you're a man that know's his trade. I appreciate how you throw out jems of knowledge too, thank you!
Beautiful work, what a perfectionist.
Richard mcmurry thanks a lot I really appreciate it I try and take pride in my work
Just because you are above “ eye level” doesn’t mean you should skimp on the finish …. Your conscience is clear my friend , keep up the good work 👍🏼😬
Love it that you take so much pride.
CHEERS
Dude! Beautiful job Nice and clean. I hope people watching realize there is a lot more to this. Been doing this myself for about 6 years ,people don't realize how hard it is to keep it clean or it looks like crap when it dries. Nobody ever shows in ANY of the videos how well there mortar matched after it was all dry. Mortar matching is an art in itself .
888huckleberry thanks a lot
Great work and attention to detail!
Mab you my hero. Love to see guys doing the very best. Not easy to find.
Nice work
Absolutely great advice in this video brother you also live in philly like me , I been watching your videos because I got a interview with local 1, i specifically applied for PCC (for those who don't know I'm talking about the bricklayers union and specifically the point caulk and cleaner position in the union) I'm 22 hoping to get a 4 year apprenticeship so your videos make me feel just a little bit better about doing this work thank you for giving advise bro your a great pointer
thanks a lot I really appreciate it that means a lot I love it when I get a good comment. Also good luck I hope everything works out please let me know if you get it keep me updated thanks. And don't forget to like And subscribe LOL
well i have to say very slow but best pointing video i have seen, it is the finished job and yes it does matter, glad i saw that excellent job..
You ever move to Wisconsin, I have a job for you. I only want individuals who take pride in their work. This quality is more rare than you may believe. You are worth a descent wage. You should be proud of yourself. I need more people like you who I can trust and who reflect the pride I have in the company I have worked hard to create.
thanks a lot I really appreciate it that's funny you say about moving because I'm moving to Tennessee in 2 days LOL but thanks
francis sciarrillo I'm wondering what city you're moving to. I'm in Columbia, Tn and would consider hiring you for a job if possible.
Excellent Craftsmanship from a true Craftsman!
Thanks a lot really appreciate it
Excellent instruction, i love the techniques shared. thank you
Lovely tidy job. A pleasure to watch a professional at work. I will try to do better. You said 2:1. Does that seem a strong mix?
Very strong
far too strong
you'll have lumps of brick dropping off
Francis, what do you think to the ‘hand injection bag method’ (bag like used with icing sugar). What is the mortar, is sand to Portland cement in a ratio of 5:1 ok for chimney, or is a stronger 3:1 better ? How deep should I remove old mortar from joint, eg 1/2 inch ?thanks for sharing.
Wow good for you sir.Nice to see there are still people taking pride in their work as opposed to just collecting a cheque. Have to say i would not have the steady hands 5 stories up. I do a little bit of tuckpointing but only on the ground.
thank you this is y i do it
I just finished my first day of my pre apprenticeship program, it’s a lot to take in at first and I hope I can grow quickly. We’ll actually get to work with brick and mortar tomorrow so I’ll see how it goes, love the passion and art that goes with it
ThatCanadianGamer good luck 👍
francis sciarrillo thanks bro I’ll do my best !
Nice work and you work like an artist
Thanks 🤩
Going to take a long time to do that wall.!!
Mortar gun Homey. I only use a hawk and trowel now for small stuff. Good work though, looks good.
Amazing quality work and skill you provide. Wishing you could do my home here in Philly. Can't seem to find anyone willing to do good pointing like this. Thank you also for providing such an informative video. If I wasn't 65 I would attempt this myself. LOL
thanks
1Hollingberry call 2674442100
1Hollingberry how much point is required on your home?
This dude is a beast. These videos definitely helped me out
yo man thanks a lot I really appreciate it. I'm really glad it helped
Please explain portland two to one.
Portland is ordinary portland cement, 2 to 1 is 2x sand by ratio to 1 cement which is one hell of a strong mix, but he is high up and exposed, the sand im guessing is soft sand ( builders sand ) not grit sand (sharp sand) which would be used with lime nhl 3.5 or a 5 if high and exposed if pointing on a soft brick, like a victorian clamp brick, which was originally built using lime mortar, the mortar should always be softer than the brick ( sacraficial)
Nice and tidy!
Appreciate!!!👍
Brilliant film good tips as I'm a beginner I'm doing pointing atm but I'm sure my pointing will look better today ,thanks
Man I’m so happy I could help that’s why I made this video I really appreciate it
3 years later ..... and job done !
Thanks for watching now im about to start it again keep watching !
It’s a how to video
Francis - I am going to attempt to do my own brick pointing. You mention Portland Mortar 2 to 1.... Is that 2 parts mortar and 1 part water? Also, what are all the tools needed to get the job done? I have to fill gaps and also replace a horrible job a previous contractor did. Thank you for your time!
I think he means 2 parts sand and 1 portland cement 👍
Nice precise work!
It would take 500 years to do this wall. You sure do have to admire this guy.
no just 30 250sq a day
That was a perfect tutorial for me. Direct and to the 'point'. I feel confident to take on the job now. Thanks Francis!
You've got that section done by now I would reckon
Thanks, great work and inspires me to do it better and neater on my house.
Hey nice work.... I have learned over the years u mist the joints the make a dry mix and just puah it off the hawk no joke its ten times faster with barley and mess... maybe way it a lui more for the head joints.... but im sure u have to use sure clean on it regaurdless right... historical society wants it perfect... good job mate.... must be good money also
Good job man! You've got skills!
Dude ure awesome!!!!! great work!!!!!! Thank you so much for helpign the city with yr talent!!!!!
Simply great work.. Hard to come by..
Very cool. Thanks for the video!
no problem thanks for the comment I appreciate it
2-1 wow that’s a sarong mix, is very exposed face work to strong cold winds?
Too strong isn't it
I like using those slickers too. more than the typical tuckpointers. ..I never thought about using a hawk though.
bonanzatime What do you use for a hawk
francis sciarrillo a 12" brick trowel. preferably the Philadelphia style, but the London style works too. .. I'm a brick, block, and stone mason with over 30 years experience.
bonanzatime nice
francis sciarrillo thank you. So is your attention to detail.👍
You remind me of an artist with how you use the key like a paintbrush and the plate like a paint plate.
dude thanks a lot that really means a lot I really appreciate it I try hard
No problem. I do contracting stuff for home maintenance and it's instructional videos like yours that taught me what I know about masonry and drywall installation.
thanks a lot I really appreciate it it's why I do this kind of work dedicated half my life thanks a lot
I’ve done some 250 year old stone foundations.....
I love pointing by the hour!!!!
Pointing by the hour??
@@josephmancini1073 getting paid by the hour !
When you are grinding out are you using the grinder all the way to the top and bottom of the brick beds or are you hand chiseling after you make a slice in the joint? I find that if you use the grinder you can't help just just barely shave some of the brick itself
thanks for showing your skill and experience, I am going to do the little part of my house that needs attention after watching you
Francis, if you did notice a bit of mortar say 12 to 24 hours later on a brick, how could you remove it? Would you use hot water and a stiff brush or something stronger like acid and water mixed at a specific ratio? Thanks!
Get muriatic acid and mix it with water 50-50 but if it’s break that just got laid do you want to give it about 5 to 7 days before you wash it
hey cool video, i do brick pointing in australia.. Do you think it is quicker and easier to use a mortar gun?? in australia we have problems with matching old and new mortar colours no one can do it right. do u have this problem in USA??
I'm getting ready to do the brick on my house and this was a great learning video. As I can see you do I also take pride in my work or anything I do. May I ask what would be the best weather conditions to do this? Thanks for the video and fantastic work!!
Douglas Rohde I would at least wait until the spring time you don't want it to go under 40 at night around 60 degrees will be the best
Great job pal
Thanks a lot I appreciate that
@@francissciarrillo8691 a lot of money in brick pointing if u have the skill. Every1 thinks it's easy it's not but if u have the technique why not make money doing it. How much do u get a square foot?
Looks great, i would have finished the wall in this video but it woud not have looked as good as yours.
What’s the fix for the bigger gaps next to the arch? Do you cut a sliver of brick off to help fill it?
You can
Thank you for the video. Are there any tuck point kits or do I have to purchase everything individually?
Tis is the very best I have seen!!
Hi Francis - would you be interested in doing some side job pointing work at (4) twin houses in a row out near Fort Washington?
Sorry I moved to Tennessee for years ago and it’s been the best thing that’s ever happened to me
I'll do it if it's still available
Thank you for the thread,but I have thinner joints than this. I'm good with larger pointing joints,but these tight ones are near impossible. Any special techniques?
albert forlini peace on earth use a thinner slicker or key than the ones he’s using.. you’re looking for a butter joint slicker
Nice work Francis!!! Why 2 to 1 versus 3 to 1?
Because all the pointers in the area always do a two-to-one and it lasts a long time I've seen fronts done 25 years ago with 2 2 1 I'll do 3 to 1 if I'm doing an inside wall
Yeah thought it just might be that way in PA. Been in construction most my life, but masonry that's just an art.
I worked for a company out of MN that did restoration just like you.. honestly I think I enjoyed setting up the swingstages more than tuck pointing from one lol
Fuck that man I hate carrying weights around on a roof one job we had 250 50 pound weights we had to move around on top of a courthouse and all the laborers in the local hall were busy or at least that’s probably what they said so they didn’t have to hall weights around all night it was a night job to it sucked dick we had to carry our own shit around to many weights for that shit when we had to move 4 stages but each stage crew was moving there own at that point would have been nice with a few labors carrying the weights though we didn’t have enough man power most jobs are nice with swing stages but we were washing not Beauno
This was non union so we alll carried weights
Nicely done, sir! I'm considering a project like this, only my houses bricks aren't bricks -- they're irregular stones! Any tips?
i need to see it
in a place like that the only person to see his quality workmanship will be the next guy who point the bricks decades down the road and he will say "boy the person who pointed this sure did a good job"...i hope the next guy isn't a hack
thank you
Excellent job. Does that tool have a concave face to prevent the mortar falling off.
no its just skill lol
Yes you are very skilled, obviously. Thank you.
Great video - thanks for sharing your insights!
Good demo, nice neat work...brickie UK
vonclap thanks
Good work. However i am surprised you are using Portland cement with bricks. I would have used lime which is more flexible and less hard to the bricks.
ririshow won’t last as long
I use a pointing bag..takes a tenth of the time and perfectly clean.
Very Nice. Wonder if you do work in Baltimore City?
no sorry I'm in Philadelphia
It is motivating that he is going the job right in a place that most people will probably never be able to see (he is up on a hoist with a safety harness, so it is likely in spots no one will ever see).
usually people who have a negative comment have nothing else better to do thanks
I wasn't trying to be negative. I was admiring the attention to detail you were taking in a place most people would do a half ass job (a place no one would ever see). You do good work.
oh no I know you weren't being negative that was for all the other negative people period but thanks a lot I really appreciate it
Artist at work....
What artistry!
Francis a 2:1 mix seems excessive to me - is this because of a requirement with this specific job? As far as I understand that after a certain ratio (around 5:1) there is only a minimal increase in hardness when this ratio is strengthened (in this case 2:1) and minimal change in permeability (water resistance) or exposure to frost damage. Please enlighten me further.
Also if you're mixing with such a low volume of sand in the mix doesn't the colour appear to have a more 'greeny brown' cement shade rather than the traditional and more 'historic' buff colour with the 5:1 or weaker mixes? Or are you adding any buff/beige colourant to the mix? or any other admixture?
Again..., job well done my friend!!!
David Smuts 2:1 is stonger than any type s mortar used to build commercial brick buildings. 5:1 portland sand is not a proper mix either. 6:1:1 or 9:1:2 would be acceptable mixes. for example, 6 parts well graded mason sand, 1 part portland cement, 1 part type s hydrated lime. A 2:1 portland /sand ratio would damage a wall within months ,usually the first freeze/thaw. Also when dealing with lime built historic buildings, cement products should never be used.
I use an electric one its great for all pointing jobs. keep up the good work.
You never tried a tuk pointing mortar holding board were you offer it up to the brick joint and push it in with finger trowels
That's what I do. Use an 18 inch drywall trowel. Works great.
Damn how long did this take?