I have always left a glob of grease on the zerk fitting after greasing, then wipe it off before greasing it the next time. Reason is that it rust proofs, and waterproofs the fitting. Just be sure to clean it before greasing in order to avoid forcing dirt and grit into the fitting.
That’s what I always do. Also I clean the inside of the Wheel and Hub Cap. I use Charcoal Lighter Fluid as it’s readability available in my garage. Leave the rag set out in the sun to evaporate the lighter fluid off, before disposal. Don’t use Grease on your Steering gear or your Speed pedal, it will accelerate the wear, due the dirt clinging to the grease. “This is per the Cub Cadet dealer.” Use DuPont Teflon Dry Lube, as it won’t attract and hold dirt. Also if your Riding Mower is Parked/Stored on a level surface, and isn’t in danger of rolling, don’t set the brake. The Spring will last a lot longer.
@@stevenmoomey2115 ABSOLUTELY.." Parked/Stored on a level surface, and isn’t in danger of rolling, don’t set the brake. The Spring/cables will last a lot longer." Same for Golf carts.
You can buy all different size caps at your local hardware store. Put a little grease in the cap using a screw driver then put the cap on the fitting. Keeps everything clean.
Loosen the end of the grease gun fitting, stick it on the zerk fitting and tighten it back down then pump grease. I didn’t know this for the longest time.
I use silicone spray on the steering gears. That lubricates them and the silicone will keep dust from collecting between the teeth of the gears. Grease will collect dirt, which will cause wear on the gears. You won't have to wipe them down using silicone. Be sure to spray the gears with silicone after washing them, especially if you use a power wash machine.
I am a 68 year old woman and gloves are no good to get control of the grease fitting . grease won't hurt you . I just took my deck off replaced belts and deck engagement cable and greased pulleys after I cleaned them good Hint also use dry lube for pedals . it keeps dust from sticking to the the oil type lube and getting in there and causing friction . I just put new spindles on my cub cadet with the grease fitting but the 2 center pulleys need taken off cleaned and greased at least once a year .The old spindles were a pain so I decided time to change them out
my cubby is now 5 years old waxed and all pretty and new led headlight bulbs . Thing is I can't get the lens cover open to clean that . troy built is easy but cubby can't get them open
@@HipsterDoofus100 I would wait forever . I clean my mowers and my decks under are coated withh slip plate graphite to keep grass from sticking to it bet yu never thopught of that . Bet you never thought to clean the grease fittings so dirt does not gget in , Bet you never thought to get rubber caps for your grease fittings . I am a woman and thought of all that HHMMMM MEN
I shoot silicone spray on the steering gears. That way they are lubricated and dirt and grass won't stick to them. A quick shot each time "before" you mow is all you need. I've gone as much as three mowings without any grass or dirt sticking to the gears. I also take a blower and blow off all the dirt. I especially use the blower on the steering gears. I also wash the mower down and dry it off with the blower and then a rag.
Slicone spray is the "lightest duty" stuff to put on METAL GEARS, it's made to put on rubber to keep it soft and prevent weathering. Use some "high temp" wheel bearing grease, just a little bit on the teeth only, don't glop it all over the place. You will extend the service life of these parts if you do this!
@@TheOzthewiz The psudo-knowledgeable "commenters" are working for the "replacement parts people" as ANY lubricant - grease especially, WILL hold sand/grit so as to make for a perfect "GRINDING PASTE".... ONLY an idiot would apply any substance that would essentially act as an abrasive paste.... Scheeese....
My grease gun goes on the fittings pretty easily, but then that gun of mine is about seven days older than water too, lol. It was old back in the early 1980's when my Pappy got him a new one and gave his old one to me. It has the long handle on it as opposed to the trigger grip most of them seem to have nowadays. I just finished greasing my mower for the season. I tried mowing with it last week and broke a drive belt and just finished replacing it yesterday. The deck belt is almost new as I changed it last fall. Tomorrow I'll change the air filter, oil filter & oil on it and maybe clean the spark plug.
So, given the difficulty to get the greasegun fitting on the tire fitting, I have bought a right angle fitting for my grease gun. It was expensive, $42, but I use it on many fittings that are dirricult to get to. Hope this helps
Not good advice here. The Cub Cadet manual for this tractors says putting grease on the steering pinion gear interface will allow dirt to accumulate (on the grease). Also, good idea to put rags or newspaper under the can when you're spraying and dripping spray lubricant. You really don't want lubricant on the belts and pulleys.
The head female attachment on grease gun has long threads to adjust opening so open counterclock very fine adjustment till easy on. never understood why some parts sealed bearing and some grease. Part are now available with zerts on spindles. 1/2 inch bull gun 24 mm be sure to block blade removal and install. Thanks for maintenance overview. Maintain or repair but maintain is fastest cheapest best practice. Thank you sir!
Just because the spindle has a "zerk" does not always mean that grease is going to get to the bearing! Case in point, there were some lower-end John Deer decks that had "zerks", but the "cavity' in the spingle had not been machined all the way through for the grease to get to where it was supposed to go. There was a UA-cam video showing how to "fix" these "fake" zerk fittings. The author of the video was not able to say IF John Deer did this on purpose or if it was just a simple mistake! Makes you wonder, doesn't it?
a little note to all what this guy is doing by spraying a wet lube on those parts increases there rate of failure , the lube attracts dirt which will wear those items out faster , IF you feel the need to lube stuff use a dry lube , BTW most of the bushings , and exposed moving parts are self lubed , and have a certain life time,
Depends on the where the mower is being used. In dirty and sandy conditions dirt may accelerate wear by sticking to the grease. The average established lawn isn’t contributing a lot of hard solid debris to the underside of the mower so old grass clippings aren’t going to wear greased moving parts. If you think that grease accumulating dirt is going to wear out the steering plate consider the small pinion gear at the end of the steering shaft last about three years whether it’s lubed or not. LOL
quick tip if you don't have a grease gun you can take the wheel off and grease the wheel shaft your self. I replaced the front inner and outter bushings and just greased the shaft before putting everything back on.
Spindales on most deck have built in failures by engineers that design them .That way you have to buy new bearings when they dry up inside. Little known fact.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. OMG, our CCLT46 is 4 years old and I never greased it: I just hope that the shop that I had taken it to in 2019 greased all the steering and chassis parts.
Pissed off at designers. My newer model has an impossible location for mine on the wheel wells. My 2 grease guns don’t make a seal on the zerk. Now have to purchase something that can fit. You know they do crap like this on purpose. Great video, thanks
My understanding is the Cadet zerks are pressed into the opening (At least the wheels) and might explain why one of mine fell out= The one shown at 0:30. I have used a needle lube to fill what I could and then taped it closed with a HVAC silver tape for now. I hope to get this fixed. Mine has 4 zerks all on the front. 2 axle and 2 on the wheels.
I have a 2014 GTX 2000 Cub Garden Tractor with a fab deck. There are 5 zerks on the deck alone. Also, on that model there are two zerks on the steering column. They do have the same zerks on the front end. Thanks for the video.
I’ve got the same machine. I discovered there’s a cooling fan under the battery not a bad idea to take an air hose and lightly blow any dirt off the rear and fan and anywhere else
That fan is to cool the hydrostatic transaxle. Also a good idea to change the hydrostatic transaxle fluid every couple of years. Most mower manufacturers state the fluid is lifetime but the transaxle manufacturers disagree. The mower manufacturers just need to get past the warranty period then it’s the owners problem. Most of the hydrostatics in Cub Cadets are Hydro Gear or Tuff Torques. Both manufacturers recommend 10W30 or 20W50 synthetic motorcycle oil for fluid replacement. Motorcycle oil because of the high detergent and zinc content. It’s a pain but you have to pull the transaxle out of most mowers to drain and refill them but it dramatically increases the useful life of the unit. Many good UA-cam vids showing how to do it if interested.
1. Buy a Zerk "clip on" fitting for your grease gun. You WILL hate yourself for not buying one sooner.... 2. CLEAN the Zerk fittings BEFOREHAND.... 3. Remove the front wheel outer axle caps then grease. Grease all other fittings. 4. My grease gun ALWAYS leaked between uses, UNTIL I realized to release the pressure in the grease gun by a slight pull out of the gun "charging" rod, thereby releasing pressure in the gun. NO leaks since.... 4. I find that using a floor jack, the grease can be "worked" into the bearing areas, front axle moved - up/down, front tires rotated, CW in the Northern Hemisphere, CCW in the Southern Hemisphere. 🙂
"Most" (not all) bushings come in standard sizes that can be found as a ball bearing. Not sure what size them bushings are, but it may be worthwhile checking out & seeing if they have an equivalent ball bearing size, specially in a hybrid ceramic version...those will last a lifetime!
@@TheHandsOnChannel 😎👍 yeah, less friction happier engine & gain a mile or two per hour speed lol. Oh, & from my experience, they're usually metric lol. So calipers capable of reading metric would be helpful when measuring them.
I have the exact same mower and I had to really crank down on the grease gun to get the wheel bearings to accept the grease but once it got past the initial resistance it went right in.
@@ainttakenanyshitPlease tell that to my 13 year old LTX1042KW and my 27 year old Husqvarna LTH130. Have greased the steering mechanisms every season without accelerated wear. Established lawns don’t add a significant amount of hard solid debris to the underside of a mower, it’s mostly grass clippings which have almost zero significance on abrasive wear.
Great video. Excellent camera angles that let us see what you were talking about. Thank you for keeping up with the Cub Cadet videos. Is it time for a 2 year review?
Zerk fittings and some pivot points are fine to be greased and lubed but I wouldn’t have done the pinion gear with anything other than a water reducer to help with corrosion. Since it’s not enclosed it will list accumulate dirt and debris. That said I was blown away when I learned my LT50 didn’t have wheel bearings. It’s essentially assembled like a child’s wagon.
Yeah, I switched over to a dry spray lube but it never really created any problems with the grease. I would just hose any dirt off after each use and eventually all the lube was gone. I think when my wheel bushings wear out I will see if I can upgrade to xt2 wheels with ball bearings.
Even with it loosened it was very difficult to get it seated on the fitting. I bought one of the lock n lube quick connect fittings and it works much better.
I suggest spraying the turning gears with silicone spray. It will dry and not collect grass, dirt, or grit. Spray about twice a month during mowing season. It takes less than 2 seconds...if you can find the can of spray in your garage or workshop. lol I keep all my mowing stuff together.
@@TheHandsOnChannel Silicone spray is such a "lightweight" lubricant for metal to metal, it's a WASTE of time. If want to lube metal parts, cause your too lazy to get "down and dirty" at least use some "lubriplate" in a spray can, the results will be a whole lot better!! That silicone spray is what you're supposed to spray on RUBBER, like your car's weather stripping or electrical parts to keep water out.
The mnaual mention not greasing the steering gear because of dust and accumulation. There is a Quick connect connector that you can install on your grease gun it make much much easier.
Yeah maybe a dry spray lube would be better, but mine still works fine after the grease. Downside is it does collect a little debris that I spray off occasionally.
don’t know why you would have to take the bearings out of the spindle to install grease fittings. I don’t a lot of them and never have taken them out I put. Lotta grease on drill bit It catches the shavings
I have the same mower and am having a hard time finding the right air filter. Picked one up at my local tsc with the right nomenclature part # everything but it’s to tall and I can’t close filter shroud over it. Unbeknownst to me they have to different filters with the same part#. Not sure why they would do that. So I figured I would order one straight from cub cadet but there aren’t any deminsions available. Called customer service and they couldn’t give me any either. Starting to get a little flustered over something that should be so simple
Your owners manual should tell you what filter you need and you could Google search that filter and find one online. I'd check eBay as that's where I got my oil filter that was a few bucks cheaper then from the Cub Cadet website, as well as free shipping.
What I do is use compressed air to blow out the filter, If I can see daylight easily through the filter, I know it's clean enough! Been doing this for 15 years on my "twin cylinder" B&S intek, no oil burning and engine starts and runs NEAR new (did not say "like new", a used product CANNOT be "like new" unless it is NOT USED)!
Not sure it is a good idea to grease the steering gears. When I clean my cadet after cutting grass I noticed a lot of grass build-up around steering gears. I blow grass away with my air gun. Greasing steering gear will allow grass/debris to stick to gears.
It's too bad the manufacturer doesn't add "zerk" fittings to the deck spindles and the steering gear assemblies. These mowers could last FOREVER if they did add them. One pet peeve I have with my MTD/Yardman has to do with the zerk fittings on the front wheel sleeve bearings (like in your video). Why couldn't they angle those fittings OUTWARD by just 15*, would make things a LOT easier. But, I also understand where the manufacturer DOES NOT want the mower to last forever, needs to sell you a NEW one every so often to stay in business! Also, there was a case of a grease fitting on a mower deck spindle where the grease would go NOWHERE! It was on some lower-end John Deer mower, the grease cavity just kept the grease in the cavity without going to the bearing. There is a UA-cam video showing how to modify these "fake" zerks to allow grease to get to the bearings. The author of the video was not sure if this was intentional on the part of John Deer or just a simple mistake! Kind of makes you wonder. CHEERS!
hi when you get fat, you should have a High pressure quick release grease gun coupling for grease gun, I bought one and it's fine, no need to hold the grease coupling, just idea, have fun
I expect this mower will last several seasons with decent care. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkx1VWTrayKBdCKAjzAcZ_Eg4dhHTae3LkN also recommend Also, I ran across the problem with it not starting the 2nd time I used it. There is a safety switch which is pushed in by the chute or mulching piece being attached to the deck. I took the cover off and it wouldn't start. Put it back on, no problem. It takes only a minute with 2 easily accessible wingnuts and no tools. This mower starts up first crank each time and it is a joy to use. It also mows in reverse by putting the key to the reverse area after starting and pushing in the triangular button. It will stay in reverse mode until you turn it off. All in all, for my homeowner needs, I really like this mower-and at 70 bucks a cut here in Miami, it's already more than 1/3 paid for itself in a month.
Thank you for a great video. One question about the parts you use to lift up the front tires--the yellow frames. What are they called and where did you order from?
Those are ramps designed for cars. I bought them years ago but these are similar. www.harborfreight.com/solid-steel-auto-ramp-set-63250.html?_br_psugg_q=ramps
Still going strong after 5 years now, but I keep it clean and my yard isn't super dusty so your mileage may vary. You could use a dry lube if you are mowing in dustier conditions than me.
@@TheHandsOnChannel thanks! I ended up using 3 and 1 oil on the pivot points. Still need to grease my steering gear. I'm hesitant to do so because a lot of dirt ends up in that area.
@The Hands On Channel This is an important point. You're really not supposed to mix grease types. They can harden or break down. Does anyone know what MTD uses as factory grease?
Hmm, thank you but mine really smoothed out after grease. I guess it could attract dirt, but if you clean it a few times during the mowing season it will be fine. Thanks again I missed that in the manual.
Spray some graphite dry lubricant if stiff. Romans 10:9 That if thou shalt confess with thy mouth the Lord Jesus, and shalt believe in thine heart that God hath raised him from the dead, thou shalt be saved.
That steering gear MUST be made of "titanium", should last forever without a drop of lube! LOL I have the same type of parts in my '15 Ford Escape, the transmission has "lifetime fluid", should NEVER need ANY maintenance, LMFAO! If it were ME, I would go ahead and SLAP some grease on those steering parts (use "high temp" grease, will stay on longer)! To the manufacturer of THAT mower, I would say, "F**K YOU"!!!!!
@@TheHandsOnChannel Nevermind, I was looking at the diagrams to find all the fittings. They showed ones underneath. They are not there, but mine is 42"
It could but I doubt it will cause any problem. After all we are talking about a steering gear, so it doesn't create a lot of friction. If you were worried about it you could use a silicone or lithium spray lube.
Do any of you Cub Cadet owners use the deck wash port to clean the underside of the deck? I was told by my dealer DO NOT use the wash port. It will damage the spindles in a hurry. I have a 2016 mower. Just curious what other do.
I've used it all the time for 2 summers now. Set the deck to be ground level and hook up the garden hose. I let it run until the water is clear, unhook the hose, raise the deck up to max height, let the blades run another 5 mins to encourage drying, then park in the garage with the deck still set for max height to drip dry.
I always figured it was more damage to the spindles to leave grass clumped under the deck because the grass will dry into a hard layer, but under that layer is wet grass that applies constant direct moisture to the spindles.
Keep ALL water from the deck. This "convenience" washout port only hastens deck rusting/spindle failure since there WILL be grass remaining that will hold moisture = RUST.... Just what the manufacturers want, to sell more units with rusted out decks....
Fyi you need a better grease gun I have one of those cheap China ones from advance auto that never worked but when I got a made in USA one I had no problem greasing with no wasted grease.
You can change them out for angled zerks. I had trouble with my cheap grease gun not engaging the zerk. I bought one of the locking type fittings and it works much better. Harbor freight also has one for around 20 bucks. I cant speak to the quality but it's cheap and available locally. locknlube.com/products/locknlube-grease-coupler?variant=32586284204116¤cy=USD&msclkid=40aaa7bbfa741418f904c637a4a8ac34&Shopping%20Ad&All%20products
My steering wheel sometimes squeaks like crazy and sounds like it's directly below the steering wheel cap. Doesn't sound like it's from the gears. Ever experience that?
No, but you could try some spray lube just below the steering wheel. Try to get it to run down the steering shaft/ It should fix the problem. Good luck!
Mine was squeaking like that too, I bought a new plastic bushing but haven't installed it, i sprayed the old bushing and steering shaft with BLASTER DRY GRAPHITE that I purchased at Home Depot, hasn't squeaked in 3 years now, I've still got the new plastic bushing, just never have had to install it, that spray graphite works great on underside of the mowing deck also after cleaning when you put it up for the season so the deck wont rust
@@keithmyers1454 I had a problem with a "low-end" Mtd/Yardman, new machine when it was delivered in '05, I didn't like the excessive steering shaft play at the cowl end! It was a $1090.00 machine, so there was NO bushing to replace, so I modified it with a brass sleeve that I was able to press fit on the shaft with almost ZERO play in the shaft. Now 15 years later, with careful use of the steering (not turning the wheels while stopped) there is still very little play in that steering shaft! Why couldn't the manufacturer have done this to begin with, I would have had more regard for MTD products!
Mine just started doing this too after 2 years, it'll make an intermittent quick loud "howl" sound as it turns but it's hard to reproduce. It feels like it's coming from up towards the steering wheel, not down at the steering gear. I haven't been able to find any videos or these plastic bushings that you guys are referring to in any of the diagrams. Do you have any more detailed information of how I can find this, or get the replacement?
I have always left a glob of grease on the zerk fitting after greasing, then wipe it off before greasing it the next time. Reason is that it rust proofs, and waterproofs the fitting. Just be sure to clean it before greasing in order to avoid forcing dirt and grit into the fitting.
That’s what I always do. Also I clean the inside of the Wheel and Hub Cap. I use Charcoal Lighter Fluid as it’s readability available in my garage. Leave the rag set out in the sun to evaporate the lighter fluid off, before disposal. Don’t use Grease on your Steering gear or your Speed pedal, it will accelerate the wear, due the dirt clinging to the grease. “This is per the Cub Cadet dealer.” Use DuPont Teflon Dry Lube, as it won’t attract and hold dirt. Also if your Riding Mower is Parked/Stored on a level surface, and isn’t in danger of rolling, don’t set the brake. The Spring will last a lot longer.
@@stevenmoomey2115 ABSOLUTELY.." Parked/Stored on a level surface, and isn’t in danger of rolling, don’t set the brake. The Spring/cables will last a lot longer." Same for Golf carts.
You can buy all different size caps at your local hardware store. Put a little grease in the cap using a screw driver then put the cap on the fitting. Keeps everything clean.
Loosen the end of the grease gun fitting, stick it on the zerk fitting and tighten it back down then pump grease. I didn’t know this for the longest time.
That's a nice tip. Never knew that. Always something to learn.
Learned this when I kept breaking off zerk
Iv been using them for 10 years now just about every day and didn't know this
I use silicone spray on the steering gears. That lubricates them and the silicone will keep dust from collecting between the teeth of the gears. Grease will collect dirt, which will cause wear on the gears. You won't have to wipe them down using silicone. Be sure to spray the gears with silicone after washing them, especially if you use a power wash machine.
Great tip, appreciate🛠 it.
USE NOTHING on the steering gears.... ANY lubricant, even silicone spray, WILL provide a surface that WILL attract and hold dust, sand, etc....
I caught that too, the manual says don't' do anything to them. @@ainttakenanyshit
metal on metal? no lube? what BS
Just bought one of these yesterday. This video will be very helpful in maintaining my investment. Thank you!
I am a 68 year old woman and gloves are no good to get control of the grease fitting . grease won't hurt you . I just took my deck off replaced belts and deck engagement cable and greased pulleys after I cleaned them good Hint also use dry lube for pedals . it keeps dust from sticking to the the oil type lube and getting in there and causing friction . I just put new spindles on my cub cadet with the grease fitting but the 2 center pulleys need taken off cleaned and greased at least once a year .The old spindles were a pain so I decided time to change them out
my cubby is now 5 years old waxed and all pretty and new led headlight bulbs . Thing is I can't get the lens cover open to clean that . troy built is easy but cubby can't get them open
Just have a man do it
@@HipsterDoofus100 I would wait forever . I clean my mowers and my decks under are coated withh slip plate graphite to keep grass from sticking to it bet yu never thopught of that . Bet you never thought to clean the grease fittings so dirt does not gget in , Bet you never thought to get rubber caps for your grease fittings . I am a woman and thought of all that HHMMMM MEN
I shoot silicone spray on the steering gears. That way they are lubricated and dirt and grass won't stick to them. A quick shot each time "before" you mow is all you need. I've gone as much as three mowings without any grass or dirt sticking to the gears. I also take a blower and blow off all the dirt. I especially use the blower on the steering gears. I also wash the mower down and dry it off with the blower and then a rag.
Slicone spray is the "lightest duty" stuff to put on METAL GEARS, it's made to put on rubber to keep it soft and prevent weathering. Use some "high temp" wheel bearing grease, just a little bit on the teeth only, don't glop it all over the place. You will extend the service life of these parts if you do this!
@@TheOzthewiz The psudo-knowledgeable "commenters" are working for the "replacement parts people" as ANY lubricant - grease especially, WILL hold sand/grit so as to make for a perfect "GRINDING PASTE".... ONLY an idiot would apply any substance that would essentially act as an abrasive paste.... Scheeese....
My grease gun goes on the fittings pretty easily, but then that gun of mine is about seven days older than water too, lol. It was old back in the early 1980's when my Pappy got him a new one and gave his old one to me. It has the long handle on it as opposed to the trigger grip most of them seem to have nowadays. I just finished greasing my mower for the season. I tried mowing with it last week and broke a drive belt and just finished replacing it yesterday. The deck belt is almost new as I changed it last fall. Tomorrow I'll change the air filter, oil filter & oil on it and maybe clean the spark plug.
my owners manual specifically states not not grease the steering gears.
Hasn't caused me any issues, I just clean it out when I wash the mower. Use dry spray lube if you prefer.
A floor jack works good to raise the front - it lets you turn the wheels for easy access to the grease fitting.
So, given the difficulty to get the greasegun fitting on the tire fitting, I have bought a right angle fitting for my grease gun. It was expensive, $42, but I use it on many fittings that are dirricult to get to. Hope this helps
Not good advice here. The Cub Cadet manual for this tractors says putting grease on the steering pinion gear interface will allow dirt to accumulate (on the grease). Also, good idea to put rags or newspaper under the can when you're spraying and dripping spray lubricant. You really don't want lubricant on the belts and pulleys.
Good to know, mine still works fine.
The head female attachment on grease gun has long threads to adjust opening so open counterclock very fine adjustment till easy on. never understood why some parts sealed bearing and some grease. Part are now available with zerts on spindles. 1/2 inch bull gun 24 mm be sure to block blade removal and install. Thanks for maintenance overview. Maintain or repair but maintain is fastest cheapest best practice. Thank you sir!
Just because the spindle has a "zerk" does not always mean that grease is going to get to the bearing! Case in point, there were some lower-end John Deer decks that had "zerks", but the "cavity' in the spingle had not been machined all the way through for the grease to get to where it was supposed to go. There was a UA-cam video showing how to "fix" these "fake" zerk fittings. The author of the video was not able to say IF John Deer did this on purpose or if it was just a simple mistake! Makes you wonder, doesn't it?
The manual recommends NOT greasing the steering gears since, being open, it will then collect dirt and do more harm than good for premature wear.
very good information how to grease all the important parts on a club cadet lawn mower
a little note to all what this guy is doing by spraying a wet lube on those parts increases there rate of failure , the lube attracts dirt which will wear those items out faster , IF you feel the need to lube stuff use a dry lube , BTW most of the bushings , and exposed moving parts are self lubed , and have a certain life time,
Still working great for me, no problems from the lube.
Depends on the where the mower is being used. In dirty and sandy conditions dirt may accelerate wear by sticking to the grease. The average established lawn isn’t contributing a lot of hard solid debris to the underside of the mower so old grass clippings aren’t going to wear greased moving parts. If you think that grease accumulating dirt is going to wear out the steering plate consider the small pinion gear at the end of the steering shaft last about three years whether it’s lubed or not. LOL
quick tip if you don't have a grease gun you can take the wheel off and grease the wheel shaft your self. I replaced the front inner and outter bushings and just greased the shaft before putting everything back on.
Watched a cub cadet company video and said to leave them dry not to grease or lubricate the steering gear on these XT 1 and XT 2 mowers
You could use a dry lube rather than grease.
Grease guns have adjustable ends for tightening or loosening when you hook on to the point where the grease goes
Spindales on most deck have built in failures by engineers that design them .That way you have to buy new bearings when they dry up inside. Little known fact.
@@albertwoolard5065 "Little know fact" by the consumer.... WIDELY USED PRACTICE by the manufacturer's....
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. OMG, our CCLT46 is 4 years old and I never greased it: I just hope that the shop that I had taken it to in 2019 greased all the steering and chassis parts.
Pissed off at designers. My newer model has an impossible location for mine on the wheel wells. My 2 grease guns don’t make a seal on the zerk.
Now have to purchase something that can fit. You know they do crap like this on purpose.
Great video, thanks
My understanding is the Cadet zerks are pressed into the opening (At least the wheels) and might explain why one of mine fell out= The one shown at 0:30. I have used a needle lube to fill what I could and then taped it closed with a HVAC silver tape for now. I hope to get this fixed. Mine has 4 zerks all on the front. 2 axle and 2 on the wheels.
I have a 2014 GTX 2000 Cub Garden Tractor with a fab deck. There are 5 zerks on the deck alone. Also, on that model there are two zerks on the steering column. They do have the same zerks on the front end. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for the info!
When greasing the wheels i found if i jack it up to take the wait off works better for me.
Weight
I’ve got the same machine. I discovered there’s a cooling fan under the battery not a bad idea to take an air hose and lightly blow any dirt off the rear and fan and anywhere else
That fan is to cool the hydrostatic transaxle. Also a good idea to change the hydrostatic transaxle fluid every couple of years. Most mower manufacturers state the fluid is lifetime but the transaxle manufacturers disagree. The mower manufacturers just need to get past the warranty period then it’s the owners problem. Most of the hydrostatics in Cub Cadets are Hydro Gear or Tuff Torques. Both manufacturers recommend 10W30 or 20W50 synthetic motorcycle oil for fluid replacement. Motorcycle oil because of the high detergent and zinc content. It’s a pain but you have to pull the transaxle out of most mowers to drain and refill them but it dramatically increases the useful life of the unit. Many good UA-cam vids showing how to do it if interested.
1. Buy a Zerk "clip on" fitting for your grease gun. You WILL hate yourself for not buying one sooner....
2. CLEAN the Zerk fittings BEFOREHAND....
3. Remove the front wheel outer axle caps then grease. Grease all other fittings.
4. My grease gun ALWAYS leaked between uses, UNTIL I realized to release the pressure in the grease gun by a slight pull out of the gun "charging" rod, thereby releasing pressure in the gun. NO leaks since....
4. I find that using a floor jack, the grease can be "worked" into the bearing areas, front axle moved - up/down, front tires rotated, CW in the Northern Hemisphere, CCW in the Southern Hemisphere. 🙂
"Most" (not all) bushings come in standard sizes that can be found as a ball bearing. Not sure what size them bushings are, but it may be worthwhile checking out & seeing if they have an equivalent ball bearing size, specially in a hybrid ceramic version...those will last a lifetime!
Great idea! I'd much rather have bearings.
@@TheHandsOnChannel 😎👍 yeah, less friction happier engine & gain a mile or two per hour speed lol.
Oh, & from my experience, they're usually metric lol. So calipers capable of reading metric would be helpful when measuring them.
Thanks! God video. Just bought the LT 46 and learning about how to care for it. Thanks!
dry lube works best in the steering gears. Blaster makes a good dry lube.
I have the exact same mower and I had to really crank down on the grease gun to get the wheel bearings to accept the grease but once it got past the initial resistance it went right in.
I understood grease on the steering gear only attracted dirt and grass.
It really was never a problem for me but I keep the machine fairly clean. Now I use a dry spray lube.
YES, it DOES.... Just keep the gears clean, NO lube of any kind....
@@ainttakenanyshitPlease tell that to my 13 year old LTX1042KW and my 27 year old Husqvarna LTH130. Have greased the steering mechanisms every season without accelerated wear. Established lawns don’t add a significant amount of hard solid debris to the underside of a mower, it’s mostly grass clippings which have almost zero significance on abrasive wear.
If you will notice most grease guns have perforated tips loosen pop on tighten grease and loosen and remove
Great video. Excellent camera angles that let us see what you were talking about. Thank you for keeping up with the Cub Cadet videos.
Is it time for a 2 year review?
Wow thanks bud! Hmm a 2 year review, great idea.
Zerk fittings and some pivot points are fine to be greased and lubed but I wouldn’t have done the pinion gear with anything other than a water reducer to help with corrosion. Since it’s not enclosed it will list accumulate dirt and debris.
That said I was blown away when I learned my LT50 didn’t have wheel bearings. It’s essentially assembled like a child’s wagon.
Yeah, I switched over to a dry spray lube but it never really created any problems with the grease. I would just hose any dirt off after each use and eventually all the lube was gone. I think when my wheel bushings wear out I will see if I can upgrade to xt2 wheels with ball bearings.
I find it easier to remove the front wheels and grease the axles instead of struggling with trying to use those inaccessible grease fittings.
Try using luteum grease for you spray it works really well. Thanks for sharing
My ltx1040 has zerk fittings on the blade spindle. You may want to check yours. They are under the deck above the blades.
Very informative considering purchase this next cutting season. Nice to know issues that come up
Keep grease and oil out of the steering mechanism and blow out grass clippings on the deck and under the battery
Nice video but don't get spray lube on the pulleys or belts!
Take the weight off the tire,grease,spin and grease again til it comes out. Wipe clean. The same with the spindles.
Cool, will that help the grease go in easier?
@@TheHandsOnChannel YES - more equal grease distribution....
Could you link to the grease gun and lubricant that you use? I am looking to purchase one and would like to know what you recommend. Thank you. :)
You can adjust your grease gun fitting. Just turn the end of the fitting counter clockwise. Also known as lefty loosey.
Even with it loosened it was very difficult to get it seated on the fitting. I bought one of the lock n lube quick connect fittings and it works much better.
'Keep it Greasy ' -Zappa
I tried greasing the front wheels on my xt1 enduro series and both fittings popped out of the wheels 🤔
These are sealed spindle bearings. They cannot be greased by a grease gun. If you could, it would only push the seals out and let dirt in.
Get yourself a LockNLoad grease gun tip. Worth every $ in saved frustration.
So much better than the damn manual.
I suggest spraying the turning gears with silicone spray. It will dry and not collect grass, dirt, or grit. Spray about twice a month during mowing season. It takes less than 2 seconds...if you can find the can of spray in your garage or workshop. lol I keep all my mowing stuff together.
Great tip, thank you!
@@TheHandsOnChannel Silicone spray is such a "lightweight" lubricant for metal to metal, it's a WASTE of time. If want to lube metal parts, cause your too lazy to get "down and dirty" at least use some "lubriplate" in a spray can, the results will be a whole lot better!! That silicone spray is what you're supposed to spray on RUBBER, like your car's weather stripping or electrical parts to keep water out.
TOTAL WASTE to use silicone spray on "high load" metal to metal parts, the stuff is made to lubricate and protect RUBBER parts!
The mnaual mention not greasing the steering gear because of dust and accumulation. There is a Quick connect connector that you can install on your grease gun it make much much easier.
Yes I now use a silicone/lithium spray lube. I bought one and it's excellent.
Remove the factory zerk and install a 45 degree zerk
Great idea!
Do you know what size the factory zerks are? I need to do this with mine.
@@macropin I don't but I took one out and took it to the store with me.
I am in the process of doing that, not enough room to get grease gun attached.
I understand these Zerk fittings are just PRESSED IN.... So, unless you are prepared to drill/cut threads, a BAD idea....
I would check the owners manual. i am sure it says " do not grease the steering linkage" Just a heads up..
Yeah maybe a dry spray lube would be better, but mine still works fine after the grease. Downside is it does collect a little debris that I spray off occasionally.
@@TheHandsOnChannel NO lube would be better - as the manual states....
don’t know why you would have to take the bearings out of the spindle to install grease fittings. I don’t a lot of them and never have taken them out I put. Lotta grease on drill bit It catches the shavings
I think I was talking about removing the inner shield on the bearings.
just a tip ,its better if you jack up the mower taking weight off the spindels grease will go in easier....
I have the same mower and am having a hard time finding the right air filter. Picked one up at my local tsc with the right nomenclature part # everything but it’s to tall and I can’t close filter shroud over it. Unbeknownst to me they have to different filters with the same part#. Not sure why they would do that. So I figured I would order one straight from cub cadet but there aren’t any deminsions available. Called customer service and they couldn’t give me any either. Starting to get a little flustered over something that should be so simple
Your owners manual should tell you what filter you need and you could Google search that filter and find one online. I'd check eBay as that's where I got my oil filter that was a few bucks cheaper then from the Cub Cadet website, as well as free shipping.
What I do is use compressed air to blow out the filter, If I can see daylight easily through the filter, I know it's clean enough! Been doing this for 15 years on my "twin cylinder" B&S intek, no oil burning and engine starts and runs NEAR new (did not say "like new", a used product CANNOT be "like new" unless it is NOT USED)!
Always wipe the zerk with your rag b4 and after you grease i
I have this same lawn tractor. Are there grease fittings on the rear wheels. I'm not seeing or feeling them.
Not sure it is a good idea to grease the steering gears. When I clean my cadet after cutting grass I noticed a lot of grass build-up around steering gears. I blow grass away with my air gun. Greasing steering gear will allow grass/debris to stick to gears.
6:08... "oil in the deck"...leave it. If anything, it's free rust proofing. Look at any riding mower, you'll see rust all over metal components.
Bro, what kind of ramps are those. Couldn’t find them online.
It's too bad the manufacturer doesn't add "zerk" fittings to the deck spindles and the steering gear assemblies. These mowers could last FOREVER if they did add them. One pet peeve I have with my MTD/Yardman has to do with the zerk fittings on the front wheel sleeve bearings (like in your video). Why couldn't they angle those fittings OUTWARD by just 15*, would make things a LOT easier. But, I also understand where the manufacturer DOES NOT want the mower to last forever, needs to sell you a NEW one every so often to stay in business! Also, there was a case of a grease fitting on a mower deck spindle where the grease would go NOWHERE! It was on some lower-end John Deer mower, the grease cavity just kept the grease in the cavity without going to the bearing. There is a UA-cam video showing how to modify these "fake" zerks to allow grease to get to the bearings. The author of the video was not sure if this was intentional on the part of John Deer or just a simple mistake! Kind of makes you wonder. CHEERS!
You can add grease zerks to the spindles but I agree that they should have come already installed.
@@TheHandsOnChannel The spindles have sealed bearings. There are UA-cam videos on how to take the spindles apart & remove the seals.
hi when you get fat, you should have a
High pressure quick release grease gun coupling for grease gun, I bought one and it's fine, no need to hold the grease coupling, just idea, have fun
Thanks for this. PITTL. I will be doing lubing this coming weekend.
Who your boyfriend lol 😂
@@iwin1833 you
I expect this mower will last several seasons with decent care. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkx1VWTrayKBdCKAjzAcZ_Eg4dhHTae3LkN also recommend Also, I ran across the problem with it not starting the 2nd time I used it. There is a safety switch which is pushed in by the chute or mulching piece being attached to the deck. I took the cover off and it wouldn't start. Put it back on, no problem. It takes only a minute with 2 easily accessible wingnuts and no tools. This mower starts up first crank each time and it is a joy to use. It also mows in reverse by putting the key to the reverse area after starting and pushing in the triangular button. It will stay in reverse mode until you turn it off. All in all, for my homeowner needs, I really like this mower-and at 70 bucks a cut here in Miami, it's already more than 1/3 paid for itself in a month.
The tip of the grease gun hose will unscrew and open the jaws up
can you swap out the blades using those ramps? or are they in the way of the blades?
Yes if you place the ramps in the right position you can change the blades.
Outstanding
There is a grease zert on the bottom of front axle piviot
Very helpful! Thanks!
Why would you have the radio or TV on competing with your video?
Use T9 for all non grease/oil lubrication
Thank you for a great video. One question about the parts you use to lift up the front tires--the yellow frames. What are they called and where did you order from?
Those are ramps designed for cars. I bought them years ago but these are similar. www.harborfreight.com/solid-steel-auto-ramp-set-63250.html?_br_psugg_q=ramps
What type of grease are you using?
I use #2 RED Grease. It is the best. Get the red stuff.
good video man , thanks for tips
No problem 👍
Lubricating the steering gears with grease will shorten their life; dirt smal stone, etc. will collect.
Still going strong after 5 years now, but I keep it clean and my yard isn't super dusty so your mileage may vary. You could use a dry lube if you are mowing in dustier conditions than me.
What kind of spray lube did you use? Great video by the way! Thanks for doing this.
I cant remember the brand but it was a silicone spray lube.
@@TheHandsOnChannel thanks! I ended up using 3 and 1 oil on the pivot points. Still need to grease my steering gear. I'm hesitant to do so because a lot of dirt ends up in that area.
Good tips, thanks brother
Thanks man!
Million $ question. What TYPE of greese do ya use ? Im about to oil/filter& greese my cub xt1
2 yrs old 😁 & paid off
@The Hands On Channel This is an important point. You're really not supposed to mix grease types. They can harden or break down. Does anyone know what MTD uses as factory grease?
I use #2 RED grease. It is the best for mowers.
i HAVE A CUB CADET V TWIN HYDROSTATIC WHY IN THE BOOKS THEY DON'T SHOW YOU THE GREASE FITTINGS ON A DIAGRAM
Thanks
Owner’s manual says do NOT grease the steering gear
Hmm, thank you but mine really smoothed out after grease. I guess it could attract dirt, but if you clean it a few times during the mowing season it will be fine. Thanks again I missed that in the manual.
Spray some graphite dry lubricant if stiff.
Romans 10:9 That if thou shalt confess with thy mouth the Lord Jesus, and shalt believe in thine heart that God hath raised him from the dead, thou shalt be saved.
@@scrateshooter Thank you and Jesus is King!
That steering gear MUST be made of "titanium", should last forever without a drop of lube! LOL I have the same type of parts in my '15 Ford Escape, the transmission has "lifetime fluid", should NEVER need ANY maintenance, LMFAO! If it were ME, I would go ahead and SLAP some grease on those steering parts (use "high temp" grease, will stay on longer)! To the manufacturer of THAT mower, I would say, "F**K YOU"!!!!!
@@TheHandsOnChannel You sure it isn't Donald Trump, "The Chosen One"?
The grease fittings for the deck are under it. That's where mine are.
Cool thank you I'll check to see if mine has them.
@@TheHandsOnChannel Nevermind, I was looking at the diagrams to find all the fittings. They showed ones underneath. They are not there, but mine is 42"
Wish I had "zerks" on my 46 inch MTD spindles, I would grease them after EVERY mowing job!
Can you use lithium grease? I use it on each of our vehicles' door hinges.
I'm sure lithium will be fine.
The RED #2 grease is better and sticks way better.
I'm the novice...what kind of grease do I use?
General purpose automotive grease is what I used. You can get it at autozone or walmart.
Nothing on deck?
No fittings on my cub cadet
Right on!!!
Won't dirt/sand/etc. get into the grease and cause friction/damage??
It could but I doubt it will cause any problem. After all we are talking about a steering gear, so it doesn't create a lot of friction. If you were worried about it you could use a silicone or lithium spray lube.
@@TheHandsOnChannel Thanks.
Do any of you Cub Cadet owners use the deck wash port to clean the underside of the deck? I was told by my dealer DO NOT use the wash port. It will damage the spindles in a hurry. I have a 2016 mower. Just curious what other do.
I've used mine a few times, but I always make sure it's a hot day and I run it for a while to dry it off.
I've used it all the time for 2 summers now. Set the deck to be ground level and hook up the garden hose. I let it run until the water is clear, unhook the hose, raise the deck up to max height, let the blades run another 5 mins to encourage drying, then park in the garage with the deck still set for max height to drip dry.
I always figured it was more damage to the spindles to leave grass clumped under the deck because the grass will dry into a hard layer, but under that layer is wet grass that applies constant direct moisture to the spindles.
Either always use it, or never use it. If you never use it, then decide to, the grass has already hardened on the deck.
Keep ALL water from the deck. This "convenience" washout port only hastens deck rusting/spindle failure since there WILL be grass remaining that will hold moisture = RUST.... Just what the manufacturers want, to sell more units with rusted out decks....
Fyi you need a better grease gun I have one of those cheap China ones from advance auto that never worked but when I got a made in USA one I had no problem greasing with no wasted grease.
I can't even get my grease gun on. Cub Cadet cheaped out by not fitting right angle zerks.
You can change them out for angled zerks. I had trouble with my cheap grease gun not engaging the zerk. I bought one of the locking type fittings and it works much better. Harbor freight also has one for around 20 bucks. I cant speak to the quality but it's cheap and available locally. locknlube.com/products/locknlube-grease-coupler?variant=32586284204116¤cy=USD&msclkid=40aaa7bbfa741418f904c637a4a8ac34&Shopping%20Ad&All%20products
What,s that distracting talking in the background. How to use a grease gun.....lube the parking brake linkage, manual says lights oil. Read it
Backround noise is crazy
Turn off the TV or the radio
My steering wheel or column is stiff when i turn the wheel and feels like its rubbing. Is this the issue?
It could be. I would find some silicone spray lube instead of grease. Try to get some to run down the shaft and get the gear nice and wet.
You didn’t grease the deck wheels. There are grease fittings inside those wheels
Thanks, I didn't see those.
👍
My MTD has hard plastic against metal for "lubrication"! LOL
not supposed to lube the steering gear
Yoy dont have to use lythium grease?
Yeah, it is not as good as the RED #2.
Lock n Lube
My steering wheel sometimes squeaks like crazy and sounds like it's directly below the steering wheel cap. Doesn't sound like it's from the gears. Ever experience that?
No, but you could try some spray lube just below the steering wheel. Try to get it to run down the steering shaft/ It should fix the problem. Good luck!
Mine was squeaking like that too, I bought a new plastic bushing but haven't installed it, i sprayed the old bushing and steering shaft with BLASTER DRY GRAPHITE that I purchased at Home Depot, hasn't squeaked in 3 years now, I've still got the new plastic bushing, just never have had to install it, that spray graphite works great on underside of the mowing deck also after cleaning when you put it up for the season so the deck wont rust
@@keithmyers1454 I had a problem with a "low-end" Mtd/Yardman, new machine when it was delivered in '05, I didn't like the excessive steering shaft play at the cowl end! It was a $1090.00 machine, so there was NO bushing to replace, so I modified it with a brass sleeve that I was able to press fit on the shaft with almost ZERO play in the shaft. Now 15 years later, with careful use of the steering (not turning the wheels while stopped) there is still very little play in that steering shaft! Why couldn't the manufacturer have done this to begin with, I would have had more regard for MTD products!
@@TheOzthewiz GOOD deal, cub cadet has a plastic bushings up under the dash
Mine just started doing this too after 2 years, it'll make an intermittent quick loud "howl" sound as it turns but it's hard to reproduce. It feels like it's coming from up towards the steering wheel, not down at the steering gear. I haven't been able to find any videos or these plastic bushings that you guys are referring to in any of the diagrams. Do you have any more detailed information of how I can find this, or get the replacement?
Yup, grease the crap out of it and wipe it off .then stop ever 10 min and wipe it again and again and again.
The guy forgot to lube the back wheels, they have fittings and so do the top of the pullys