Day to Night Time-lapse Tutorial (Camera Setup and Post-Processing)
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- Опубліковано 27 сер 2024
- Learn the easiest, and most professional way to both shoot AND process day to night timelapses using RAW imagery inside of Davinci Resolve. No need for extra programs like Adobe Lightroom, LRTimelapse, or After Effects. This workflow will give you incredible results at the highest level of quality possible, all inside of one single program. You learn how to adjust white balance, adjust the raw color as necessary, and how to process it on the timeline.
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#Timelapse #Sony #District7
I'm 49s into the video and can already tell it's going to be good! Thanks for making this!
Thanks for watching!!
Cool tutorials Drew! I need to get my hands on Davinci Resolve and experiment with these timelapse workflows! :)
It's the future, my friend! No more LR > AE > PP. One-stop-shop now!!
Thanks for this tutorial, this is very helpful as I do not use any Adobe Apps or LR Timelapse. I shoot timelapse with Nikon & Davinci resolve supports importing NEF files directly (so no DNG conversion as well :) ), so that makes my life much easier.
Wow! I'd love to see a Milky Way timelapse edited this way
Thank you so much for the tutorials, Drew!
Thanks for watching!!
That was was part of the problem I also just noticed my photo sequence was off by 10,000 every photo. Once both corrected that did it. Thanks much. Love watching you time lapses and the info you share about them.
Awesome! Glad you figured it out - it's such an incredible workflow and so much faster than having to use LR, AE, and PP from Adobe.
Awesome tutorial drew! Guess it’s time to listen to you and download resolve lol
Dude, you won't regret it. Best software switch I've made in a long time!
The perfect tutorial I was looking for, Thank you 🤩🤩🤩!
Thanks for watching!
@@District7DrewGeraci Thank you for making the tutorial 🤗
Hey Drew! I'm loving these tutorials! Have you noticed that the different metering modes have drastically different effects on auto-ISO performance when doing day-to-night? I've tried multi, spot, and entire screen avg methods and it can be quite the (disappointing) difference (i.e., doesn't increase ISO enough for astro-nightlapses). It looks like you're using multi based on this video, but would you recommend that for day-to-night for the Milky Way where there is hardly any light at all? Or would you use Center, Spot, or Entire Screen Avg.?
Thanks for watching Alex! Going from day to milkyway is challenging because I've found you need to make sure you have your scene set up appropriately while filming (scout ahead of time to know light sources) because it'll directly affect the ISO/SS ramping when it gets dark. Spot-metering works best (IMO) for Day to MW, but you have to make sure that the sun isn't directly in your frame or else spot-metering will totally screw up. You also want to use an ultra-fast lens (f/1.4 or better) for the best low-light performance. Choose a location that is 95% dark and make sure there's enough clearing in the frame to see the majority of the sky. A trick you can do as well is as soon as the sky turns completely black is to pause the shot with the Imaging Edge App (so you don't have touch the camera), change the shooting mode from A to M, and then make sure the camera settings are what you want for the Milkyway and this 100% guarantees you get the shot (and it'll blend perfectly in post). Hope this helps!
We have been waiting for this video for a long time, thank you very much. This trick seemed easy and intuitive to me, I understand that if there is some flickeo within the video, you can also remove it with davinci. Lately, if I edit my timelapse with a raw camera, this generates excessive contrast flicke, making me very limited when editing. Thank you very much in advance.
Great tutorial again Drew, could you also keyframe the temperature adjustment in resolve to get the same result? 😀👍
Yeah you definitely can, especially if you want more control. That's a whole other tutorial though (that I'm working on as well!) thanks for watching!
In resolve's settings, what setting do you have the Camera Raw portion? Is this applicable? I don't see the gamma/color space interpretation in my raw settings but this could just be because I have color management turned on.
How did you get your dng files to show up as one video when importing. When i import my raw dng files they just show up as seperate picture cuts on the timeline . Please help
Do you need the studio version of resolve? Or is the free version sufficient?
Perhaps I missed it, what are the recommendations for the interval between shots to get smooth-ish people and car movement?
At 1:42 it looks like the shutter speed is set to 30 sec (30") but I thought you indicated to shoot in Aperture priority so it will adjust automatically. Is 30" correct to get the proper motion blur or is it because the lens cap on and the camera is trying to set the proper shutter speed? 30" seems quite long but you are the expert.
Hey Paul - This tutorial only addresses the camera settings/functionalities when shooting a day to night timelapse but doesn't discuss the intervals, or other camera settings because there's way too many variables to go over (and not what this video is meant for). The 30" is only because the lens cap was on the camera. Typically (and there are numerous ways to shoot a D2N) I will use a variable ND that goes from 1 stop to 10 stops and I will rotate it accordingly (as the exposure changes) to counter balance the shutter speed so it stays consistent at 1"-2" so I get maximum shutter drag (motion trails) in my shot. For the example I didn't do that because this is just trying to show you how to process your imagery once you've shot your timelapse.
As a pro tip, if you are shooting people/cars your interval doesn't really matter because if you're shooting day to night, your internval needs to match what you're capturing (day to night should be 6-10 second intervals, where people/cars wouild be 1-2 second intervals). If people are cars are also in your frame, then I suggest (as mentioned above) to use a variable ND filter that you can easily change so that you capture the motion blur of those subjects too.
Thanks for watching!
@@District7DrewGeraci Thanks for the reply. Appreciate the intent was D2N. Just surprised at the 30" but now I get it.
All the best!
Like before watching 😍❤️
Thank you soo much for this amazing tutorial.
I am using Sony A7C, can this AV method be used to film holy grail Time-lapses with Sony A7C ? ie going from sunset till the milky way appears?
As some says in Av mode almost all camera's light meter fails 20-30 mins after the sunset.
What's your opinion on this ? Do you think Av mode can be used for all day to night Time-lapses ?
Hugs 🤗
Loved the information supplied. When I try to import the individual photos to use in my time lapse DR does not recognize them as a video clip. I've not been able to get this process to work successfully. Is the problem an import setting that I am missing?
You may have Image Sequencing turned off - in the Media Tab (bottom left of the screen), go to the footage bin, click the 3 dots on the right-hand side (at the top) and select "Frame Display Mode" and then choose "Sequence". This should fix your issue.
How often were you taking shots in the lapse with the boats?
It was a 2.5" shutter speed with 3-second intervals. Hope that helps!
Hey Drew, this was so helpful. Just a question. Do you use aperture priority to do holy grail Milky Way timelapses or would you do that manually?
Thanks for watching! Yes, I use aperture priority for most day to night and holy grail shots. It only works in completely dark areas though, so if you have lights in the foreground that change throughout the night it can throw the exposure off. Manual ramping is pretty much dead these days. Hope that helps!
@@District7DrewGeraci Thanks heaps Drew that helps a lot!
Drew thank you so much for this long awaited tutorial !
you just make so many people life easier with that method.
just one thing please
the sony metering mode stay on "multy"
Drew what about the " metering mode"
dont do more than 200 iso for the noise in the sky...
Hi Drew. Which camera would you prefer for day to night milky way timelapse, A1 or A7s3?
Both the A1 and A7SIII are PERFECT for day to night timelapse (holy grail as well) - even when thrown into AV mode. I just shot a 10 day (consecutive) day-to-night shot with the A1 and it looks absolutely insane!
Excellent job ma man!! What exposure length do you use - interval seconds for day to night?
Thanks for watching! The length is determined by what I want to accomplish. If you're going DEEP into night from day, your interval should be longer (8-10 seconds) if you're just doing sunset into night, then shorter (5-7 seconds) but you also have to think and accommodate the shutter speed as it's changing so it really depends on what the subject is.
Basically there are WAY too many variables to answer your question directly but if you use the information provided above that'll get you in the ballpark.
@@District7DrewGeraci seems like 30 secs. Correct?
@@rMr.big13 no, the interval will never be 30 seconds for any day to night or holygrail shots. Max would be 12-15 seconds.