What is purpose of this diagram? If u are giving power direct from consumer unit to ceiling rose? Your switch what will control? Am confused please explain?
Fully qualified Electrician and I still watch these great back to basic video's from GSH to recap. Thanks Mr Gaz keep the learning tutorial rolling. Your teaching is much appreciated and simply the best.
I have watched many videos on two way switches with intermediate but never got clear understanding, this video with an excellent and easy to understand explanation made my day👌👍
Without doubt the NO1 -Top tier of electrical training in the world!.. outstanding Video tuition !! Big thanks again.."Crem'e de le Mon't " As dell boy would say lol
Second to none as always. The best and most thorough explanation you will ever find. Easy to follow and also to apply in practice. What about a book which will have everything you teach in your college. I would call it “The Electrical Apprentice Knowledge”. Certainly it will be a must have for anyone serious about learning the electrical trade. Just a bit of food for thought. Well Done Gary.
Hi thanks for this video, If the L1 and L2 terminations aren't in the same order as on your intermediate switch, do you still connect the two way switch's at the top and bottom? Many thanks
Great video. I have a slightly different set up with my upstairs light in that the ceiling rose is wired to the intermediate switch (in the middle) and the 2 way switches are left and right (if it were a diagram) if that makes sense. Have you got any wiring diagrams for that set up at all?
You used the black conductor to connect the 2 commons, is this just a personal preference or can it be done with any of the colours. I was told not to use the black and it should be brown. Is there a kind of an unspoken rule where everyone uses the black. or does it really not matter at all? would really appreciate some feedback on this everyone as well. Thank you very much in advance.
I always use black for common 👍🏻. If you look at the drawing the permanent line (brown) into the first 2 way switch is connected to the brown of the 3 core make that permanently connected to the line conductor. Hope this help. Gaz 👍🏻
@@GSHElectrical Thank you! I done it this exact way at college (and it all work after testing continuity) and was told that I had wired it wrong, and that I should use the grey and black in L1 and L2 and the brown in common. This confused me as I guess everyone does it differently :D
wow a much cleaner way is by taking the live to the c running the two switching lines to each other and then take the other c to the bulb would add a picture if i could
@@GSHElectrical sorry if it seems obvious but it's the 2way switch after the intermediate has the earth wire on it's own. Do I just put it into a wago connector?
I understand that you have to identify the lines when there are different colour codes of cables in the system or using the blue as a switched line, but in a completely new installation (with the exception of using blue as switched line)? I mean the lines are identified by todays colour code: Brown, black and grey are lines. Here in Germany in most cases it's not economical to install more than three switches that way. If more than three switches are required we use such a thing here in combination with retracting switches. Also available in a version for junction boxes, this one is for installation on a DIN rail: www.eltako.com/fileadmin/downloads/en/_datasheets/Datasheet_ESR12NP-230V%2BUC.pdf You only require two wires at every switch, a line and a (temporary) switched line sending the short impulse to this central switch. So easy to extend later on and add further switches if required. I have installed one for the lighting in the staircase of my house. The price they state in the data sheet is on the high side, street price for this specific model is round about 30 Euros (27 GBP). To spare the contacts they switch at the zero point of the sine wave.
I've got a situation where the 3 core & earth is run from switch 1 to 2 and then finishes on 3. The switch wire from the lighting loop is in the middle switch (switch 2) I'm not sure if this will work as either ends of the 3 core are in switch 1 and 3. Hope I explained it for you to follow. Can anyone shed light on this!
@@victor-hn1bh no need for one on this occasion as I sorted it myself eventually. Do you not think I had the sense to do what you suggested, go take a long lay down mate and give people a break.
That is also an option - however from painful experience with learners in college we don’t teach it so we connect the conductors as expressed in the video. Thanks for watching and commenting. Gaz
Hi Gaz, Can you please be more careful with your wording; "It doesn't matter which way round you do L1 and L2..." I had a qualified electrician do a partial re-wire, which included 2-way switching (no intermediate.) When he was finished, for the light to be off, one switch was in the off position, and the other was in the on position. If the switches were both in the off (or the on) position the light was turned on. I felt it quite a reasonable request to ask him to configure it so that when both switches are off, the light would be off. I was very surprised by the authoritative reply of "No, you cannot configure 2 way switching like that!" I waited for him to leave, turned off the power, and swapped the brown and grey wires in one of the switches, and the light is now off when both switches are up (or both down.)
True, but intermediate switches are *significantly* more expensive (they have basically twice as much internals). 1 way switches are mostly dead here in NL in favor of just using 2 way with an empty terminal, though.
@@MrSJT intermediate switches will never be as cheap as 2 way, because internally they’re essentially a 2 gang switch properly interconnected. No matter how much supply and demand there is.
@@JasperJanssen the reason why supply and demand won't happen is because they will always buy 1 and 2 way switches where required, intermediate is a lot more expensive in some brands due to lack of demand. The actual cost of making it isn't much coz most of the time you are not paying for the mechanism, you're paying for the plate and assembly. Supply and demand only happens where there is a necessary transition such as reg changes. The prices are more exaggerated on cheaper switches. Intermediate switch sales will more than significantly increase if there was no use for 1 and 2 way switches
Link in the description for all the drawings you will need in this series of videos 🦾. I hope this message has been some help 👍.
What is purpose of this diagram? If u are giving power direct from consumer unit to ceiling rose? Your switch what will control? Am confused please explain?
Fully qualified Electrician and I still watch these great back to basic video's from GSH to recap. Thanks Mr Gaz keep the learning tutorial rolling. Your teaching is much appreciated and simply the best.
Massive thanks for the support - Gaz 🦾👍
Absolutely 1st class explanation you should be proud of your video. Walter from Liverpool Merseyside, retired electrician 😊
I have watched many videos on two way switches with intermediate but never got clear understanding, this video with an excellent and easy to understand explanation made my day👌👍
Massive thanks for the positive feedback 👍
Without doubt the NO1 -Top tier of electrical training in the world!.. outstanding Video tuition !! Big thanks again.."Crem'e de le Mon't " As dell boy would say lol
Thanks 🦾
Well said totally agree 🤩
Very good teaching. I have learnt a lot.
Thanks
Great video teacher. Many thanks for taking the time for doing it. 🤝
Glad it was helpful 👍🏻
Good explanation gaz, I wish my college tutors would have been this clear 😀
Second to none as always. The best and most thorough explanation you will ever find. Easy to follow and also to apply in practice. What about a book which will have everything you teach in your college. I would call it “The Electrical Apprentice Knowledge”. Certainly it will be a must have for anyone serious about learning the electrical trade. Just a bit of food for thought. Well Done Gary.
Brilliant video!
👍🏻
Thanks Gaz again brilliantly explained
Thanks for commenting and watching 👍🏻
Love this Gaz. Thanks.
Thanks for the support 👍
great video, very helpful, thanks for uploading
Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻. Gaz
Very very good explaining, thanks.
Very very very nice explanation
Thanks 👍🏻
Life saver thanks 👍
Thanks
You r great teacher
Massive thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏻. Gaz
Great. I have learnt
👍🏻
nicely explained thanks
Thank you mate !! just wondering how would you add another light on the same circuit as all the terminals are being used up?? thanks again great help
You can put more than one conductor in the terminal 👍🏻. Thanks for commenting
Nicely explained. Shame is only that in college nobody teach that, what I hear from UK sparkies.
Not true. My college taught us exactly that: Lambeth College.
Excellent
Thanks 👍🏻
As always Gaz!👍
I am really I appreciate it ❤
👍🏻
Hi thanks for this video, If the L1 and L2 terminations aren't in the same order as on your intermediate switch, do you still connect the two way switch's at the top and bottom? Many thanks
Very good 👍👍👍
Massive thanks 👍
Great video. I have a slightly different set up with my upstairs light in that the ceiling rose is wired to the intermediate switch (in the middle) and the 2 way switches are left and right (if it were a diagram) if that makes sense. Have you got any wiring diagrams for that set up at all?
Wiring Diagrams for Lighting and Motor Circuits
ua-cam.com/play/PL2Ea5r9gxUUfm4SACOSOZigCeSxxC5xaO.html
Hello and thank you for your tutorial program
Would you please do a full circuit of heating system including solar?
🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
That sounds like the wiring diagram for AM2....
what happens when the permanent line follows through the common route and meets again with the permanent feed back into loop. Would it go bang?
You used the black conductor to connect the 2 commons, is this just a personal preference or can it be done with any of the colours. I was told not to use the black and it should be brown. Is there a kind of an unspoken rule where everyone uses the black. or does it really not matter at all? would really appreciate some feedback on this everyone as well. Thank you very much in advance.
I always use black for common 👍🏻. If you look at the drawing the permanent line (brown) into the first 2 way switch is connected to the brown of the 3 core make that permanently connected to the line conductor. Hope this help. Gaz 👍🏻
@@GSHElectrical Thank you! I done it this exact way at college (and it all work after testing continuity) and was told that I had wired it wrong, and that I should use the grey and black in L1 and L2 and the brown in common. This confused me as I guess everyone does it differently :D
Hi Gaz, love the videos, excellent reminders! Do you have a video that highlights the technique of running power to the switch?#
regards
a fellow Gaz
Taking the Feed (Supply) to the Light Switch the 2 Plate Method
ua-cam.com/play/PL2Ea5r9gxUUevU9gv8lizD53aYvwiJ5qr.html
This should help 😁🦾👍
any drawings of a two way switch with supply at the switch?
Wiring Diagram Lighting Circuit 2 Plate Method Taking the Feed to the Switch - 2 Way Switching ua-cam.com/video/QX1B4gtqisc/v-deo.html
Nice.
Thanks 👍🏻
wow a much cleaner way is by taking the live to the c running the two switching lines to each other and then take the other c to the bulb would add a picture if i could
how do you make this 2 and 3 way switching system have a neutral at each switch for smart switches?
Wiring Diagram Wired Through the Switch Lighting Circuit AM2 & AM2S - 2 Way & Intermediate Explained
ua-cam.com/video/cIPZhriDQr8/v-deo.html
Are there any British manufacturers of intermediate switches where the pairs of terminals are arranged the other way?
What do you do with the earth cable at the end, on a plastic switch?
If it full insulated - back box and switch with no earth terminal in the box then put the CPCs together in a connection block.
@@GSHElectrical sorry if it seems obvious but it's the 2way switch after the intermediate has the earth wire on it's own. Do I just put it into a wago connector?
Can the PL and SWL come down to any switch ie can it come down to the intermediate switch ?
I understand that you have to identify the lines when there are different colour codes of cables in the system or using the blue as a switched line, but in a completely new installation (with the exception of using blue as switched line)? I mean the lines are identified by todays colour code: Brown, black and grey are lines.
Here in Germany in most cases it's not economical to install more than three switches that way. If more than three switches are required we use such a thing here in combination with retracting switches. Also available in a version for junction boxes, this one is for installation on a DIN rail:
www.eltako.com/fileadmin/downloads/en/_datasheets/Datasheet_ESR12NP-230V%2BUC.pdf
You only require two wires at every switch, a line and a (temporary) switched line sending the short impulse to this central switch. So easy to extend later on and add further switches if required. I have installed one for the lighting in the staircase of my house. The price they state in the data sheet is on the high side, street price for this specific model is round about 30 Euros (27 GBP). To spare the contacts they switch at the zero point of the sine wave.
What if they where no other option but to place intermediate switch at the end and not the middle
I've got a situation where the 3 core & earth is run from switch 1 to 2 and then finishes on 3.
The switch wire from the lighting loop is in the middle switch (switch 2)
I'm not sure if this will work as either ends of the 3 core are in switch 1 and 3.
Hope I explained it for you to follow.
Can anyone shed light on this!
Great video as always Gaz, do they still teach the old singles method ? its a handy one for new lads doing conduit work
Yes - I am doing the 2 plate method as well in this series of videos 👍. Thanks for watching and commenting. Gaz 😁
Sorry Gaz, i meant the 2 wire method, feed at one of the 2 way switches and switch line from the other end , so as not needing a strapper
Hi i have removed my old fluorescent 6 foot twin but I now have 11 wires hanging down and no diagram to fit my new LED batten, can you help please?
Get a competent electrician 😊
@@victor-hn1bh no need for one on this occasion as I sorted it myself eventually. Do you not think I had the sense to do what you suggested, go take a long lay down mate and give people a break.
Can the switch line be at the intermediate switch?
I m thinking where u put switch line Blue should not b in neutral side
where can i get blank copies of these to fill out please
Link in the description 👍
How come you don’t just run the black through the intermediate without terminating it?
That is also an option - however from painful experience with learners in college we don’t teach it so we connect the conductors as expressed in the video. Thanks for watching and commenting. Gaz
Why you joining the switch wires just bring a single from common to common
Hi Gaz,
Can you please be more careful with your wording; "It doesn't matter which way round you do L1 and L2..."
I had a qualified electrician do a partial re-wire, which included 2-way switching (no intermediate.) When he was finished, for the light to be off, one switch was in the off position, and the other was in the on position. If the switches were both in the off (or the on) position the light was turned on.
I felt it quite a reasonable request to ask him to configure it so that when both switches are off, the light would be off. I was very surprised by the authoritative reply of "No, you cannot configure 2 way switching like that!"
I waited for him to leave, turned off the power, and swapped the brown and grey wires in one of the switches, and the light is now off when both switches are up (or both down.)
Yes quite easy done or just turn 1 of the switches up the other way
If all switches were intermediate, you would never need a 1 way or 2 way switch as intermediate can be used for either 😉
True, but intermediate switches are *significantly* more expensive (they have basically twice as much internals). 1 way switches are mostly dead here in NL in favor of just using 2 way with an empty terminal, though.
@@JasperJanssen thas where supply and demand comes in. I remember when RCBO's were well expensive
@@MrSJT intermediate switches will never be as cheap as 2 way, because internally they’re essentially a 2 gang switch properly interconnected. No matter how much supply and demand there is.
@@JasperJanssen the reason why supply and demand won't happen is because they will always buy 1 and 2 way switches where required, intermediate is a lot more expensive in some brands due to lack of demand. The actual cost of making it isn't much coz most of the time you are not paying for the mechanism, you're paying for the plate and assembly. Supply and demand only happens where there is a necessary transition such as reg changes. The prices are more exaggerated on cheaper switches.
Intermediate switch sales will more than significantly increase if there was no use for 1 and 2 way switches
Now do one where you don't have a ceiling rose.
Playlist- Wiring Diagrams for Lighting and Motor Circuits
ua-cam.com/play/PL2Ea5r9gxUUfm4SACOSOZigCeSxxC5xaO.html
Thanks 👍🏻
Do yous also teach loop at the switch and joint box or is knowing look at the rose enough to pass your tests? Cheers
Sorry just noticed the other vids