This video is well done - I appreciate you not overly "taking a side" when there is so much performance nuance to edge retention/wear resistance, carbon & carbide size, corrosion resistance, toughness - and less understood attributes such as edge stability, microstructure, impact/shock resistance, heat treatment, geometry, sharpening method micro-physics, and hardening potential. Well done - cheers.
@@lordtartarsauceb8348 I'll make sure to have a 1095 sharpened crowbar with me 'in the field' to make you happy, ok? I won't use it, it's only there to make you happy. Are you happy? I hope you're happy. I'm a man of my word.
Well said. I agree with everything. I took the path of buying many knives over many years and have developed my preferences. An attribute never mentioned I value has been referred to as front end sharpness after I describe it. Working edge retention isn’t something I care about on my EDC. But how much front end sharpness, how long it lasts and how easy it is to maintain along with lateral edge durability are primary factors in my EDC steel preference.
I totally agree with your view on usefulness for an EDC knife. The best for me is Victorinox steel. I can get front end sharpness to my liking quickly and rust is never an issue. Super steels are too hard to sharpen to my satisfaction. I think the tempering has a large affect on getting the edge I want. Geometry also makes a huge impact. Victorinox just has the best QC overall that I have seen. I've spent way too much money over the years chasing better only to be disappointed and not wanting to carry or use it.
Early on in my knife game I chased the 'super steels'. Then I got a good sharpening rig and a good strop. Sure, I still go after the new hotness from time to time. Heat treatment concern was my next evolution. I've found far too many manufacturers under cook their higher end steels and man has that saved me a truckload of money. Design and use case aside, I'll take a Civivi in 14C28N or Nitro-V over We's 20CV.
You trust a company to heat treat a dog shit steel like 14C28N, but not that same company to heat treat their high-end premium 20CV? You must be the type of guy who would say a Corvette is a terrible car and the company doesn't know how to build cars, but a Chevy Camaro, now that's a real car and car company that knows how to build a car.
14c is much less finicky to properly mass heat treat than a more complex steel like 20cv. My examples of both from the same manufacturer have lead me to my opinion. I'm fine to differ with you on 14c being a "dog shit steel" and you assuming I am this kind of guy or that kind of guy. Value is subjective. Thanks for your opinion.
After owning/ EDCing/ sharpening a truckload of knives of varying steels/ quality/ and manufacturers for the last 22 years, I’ve gone full circle and went back to humble roots and became pretty darn content. Amongst the plethora of knives I currently own, I keep coming back to these lowly three: Ontario RAT 2 in AUS-8, Cold Steel Mini-Recon Clip Point in AUS-10, and a Spyderco Persistence lightweight in 8cr13Mov. If you’ve used knives this long, you’ll realize that blade steel is not as important as people hype it up to be. There are many factors that makes a knife great and these factors vary in importance to different people. Super steels are a want, and it is OK to want them. But you don’t need them. I’m not telling you to NOT get super steels. What I’m telling you is to NOT judge how good a knife is by what steel it is made of.
I feel the same way. Steel isn't the main thing I look at when getting a knife. However, I carry a large inkosi and beat the hell out of it. Great knife for me.
I've long thought that Cruwear is under-appreciated. For a tool steel, in most environments, it's always been pretty rust resistance. Tough as nails, and holds an edge well. Seems to sharpen up pretty easily too.
1. Geometry 2. Heat treat 3. Steel type 55hrc k390 would hold a shitty edge because it'll just mushroom the cutting edge before the carbides help you. Geometry of a brittle steel will make a tough knife and cutting edge, and a tough hard steel will hold a fine geometry and give much higher edge retention. Steel gives the edge rention and toughness hardness balance, but some are worse than others objectively, but the geometry and having it hard enough matter a lot. Soft edges just mean you need thicker bevels and get even less edge retention, usually in a steel that's already super tough like 420HC. It's like taking a monster truck to a racetrack, it's maximized for the wrong thing. MagnaCut at 62 will do everything well and the geometry will dictate if it's a competition chopper or a Japanese kitchen knife.
I have a friend who knows everything about knife steel properties and is disgusted that I even own 20 Dollar knives. I'm not bothered by the weaknesses of some of my knives, because I simply clean, sharpen and wax them to keep them in shape. His knives look pristine, because he never uses them. I'm not a dick about it, because he provided useful information for special future-heirloom knives I bought. But seriously. Even cheap steel is still steel!
@@JamezEd1tz Of course, I'm not saying that it doesn't matter, but my EDC for cutting baloney, paracord and packages is an affordable Kershaw Culpepper that looks so pretty, old-school and modern at the same time. We have good knives here in Germany, but unfortunately there is a tendency to make all knives look "tactical" which I find pretentious. To me it feels like buying an Iron Cross/Purple Heart. I also have expensive knives I use for serious work when I'm hiding in my garden shack, but they don't look nice.
Sometimes I look at my old PM2 and think S30V is outdated and lame. Then I remember it’s a far superior steel to basically any blade made in all history until the last 40 years. 😅
I feel the same about my S30V Para3. I keep wishing it was Magnacut or something newer and fancier but remember for years this thing has taken a beating and keeps ending up in my pocket over newer knives I’ve gotten. That being said, I will 100% be getting a Salt PM2
@@LostTrailX Unless that Magnacut is way too soft (which some manufacturers do, it needs to be hardened to 64HRC for optimal performance) it will hold an edge about three times as long. If they are both at 58HRC they might perform very similarly.
Magnacut appeared, everyone wanted knives made of this steel. Sales of knives made of other steels have plummeted. Now all the sellers have run to tell me that others steels good too. Of course, you need to sell stocks of this stuff from warehouses.
Sales of other knives haven't plummeted. The vast majority of people buying knives are not buying magnacut. Most people dont know or care about steel, and most people are cheap and not willing to spend for even s30v, let alone magnacut.
@@Trolldaddy5yeah those are the people who use their knives and are not knife nuts. But the knife nuts are the people who these company’s target because there are weirdos who will buy 10+ CRKs. A knife that’s supposed to be a buy once cry once type of knife is being over bought and out of stock by knife nuts. And once they’ve sold these gullible office dwellers on magnacut they buy em up like candy. Literally printing money. While magnacut is an objectively amazing steel knife nuts buy it for the novelty. They don’t actually use their knives. They play with them.
Knife hobby is an N+1 hobby. there is always a room for another purchase. :) currently own a Tenacious, Resilience, Mora 546, Rat 1 in D2 and Esee 4HM. Planning to get a Dragonfly 2 in H2 soon.
Became an immediate fan of magnacut. I personally don't need anything better. Great corrosion resistance for my humid environment and stays sharp for a very long time and is pretty easy to sharpen.
I think an important aspect is also price - different price ranges bring different steels to the table and you should consider if that steel is worth that price tag. And also another thing is ease of sharpening or ease/capability of restoring an edge with a strop which might be very important to people who don't have a lot of sharpening knowledge and equipment or people who for example do a lot of backpacking and have a need to restore that edge on the go in the woods for example. Heat treat is also very important... a budget steel done properly will be better than a premium steel with a poor heat treat.
Nice. It's a great knife. I picked up a double edged model and the spine edge was a bit rough so I sharpened both edges to two different grits. It's been cool to have a super refined edge and a more toothy one on the same blade. Fun stuff.
I got the tanto magnacut livewire. I love the knife but it sadly was poorly sharpened at the factory. Spent a good 45 minutes getting it nice and sharp and it's been an absolute champ ever since. Been about 4 months now and other than a few strop sessions it's still mad sharp.
@TerminalM193 I of course am not a fan of poorly sharpened blades from the factory but I suppose the silver lining would be at least now you have the worst of the burned edge off. I like this knife so much I've been seriously considering getting that tanto. It's a very slick looking blade.
Pretty good timing here since I am currently trying to decide on whether to wait for the Spyderco Military 2 to be available in S90v or buy the already available S30c version
Awesome vid. I thought I was subscribed, I am now. I bought the BHQ exclusive Kershaw Launch 4 in MagnaCut & Ultem scale. It's a sweet little auto for us stuck behind enemy lines in the P.R.K. I'm in the sandy eggo sector.
Depending on heat treatment and what type of performance you prefer, MagnaCut can flex into multiple uses. MagnaCut ranges between CruWear & 4V in toughness, between S35VN & M390 in edge retention, and right under LC200N/Vanax in corrosion resistance.
Yep. The best heat treatment on Magnacut I have that has been a great and versatile blade is from MKC. It's simply superior to what I have from others.
@@Swearengen1980 Theres quite a few manufacturers that do MagnaCut correctly. It just depends on your price range and what you’re going to use it for. Mind you, edge geometry and the process of how the HRC is reached, is arguably more important. Is your MKC model the only MagnaCut knife you have/experienced?
@@alexferrara9287 Nope. A Bradford, Kershaw, Spyderco and MKC. In terms of quality, I'd put them at MKC, Spyderco, Bradford, Kershaw....despite me absolutely hating Spyderco's style (great knives, just ugly to me).
thanks George, a fan from New Zealand (fush un chups bruh) since the Ben and Zac days... and you are living up to their standards, keep it up... but please, don't leave... 😂
Subbed. Awesome channel thx. I sharpen regularly using supposed "Tungsten Carbide" blades from large paper cutters modified for my simple machines. These blades are readily available online in bulk. I'm probably looking to experimenting with making my own blades after your recommendations. 😉
Tbh my Microtech MSI with the m390MK has been working out perfectly for me. Holds its edge extremely well holds up to the light prying I do with it (I have a pocket pry for prying) and even in heavy sweating not a spot of corrosion or even discoloration.
You know what steel surprised me the most S35VN on my protech SBR with a blade under 3 inches. I batoned (YES BATONED) a 2 inch diameter sapling tree. After I could still shave with it, I could not believe it.
Surprised that you didn't mention CruWear. Even Dr. Thomas will admit that it is better than Magnacut in edge retention and toughness, and still has pretty decent corrosion resistance, great even for a "high carbon" steel.
Hardness is often neglected, but imho it is a key factor in a lot of edc tasks. Toughness combines with it to give a good edge stability geometry wise. Those two attributes dictate how thin the blade can be. Then abrasion resistance plays its role in cutting abrasive stuff, which is quite frequent too, and depending on the climate, corrosion resistance will better edge stability and geometry at the very apex over time. So I think the «best» steel should be over 63 hrc and quite tough, with a lot of high carbides, K390 is the ideal candidate for extra thin geometries, Magnacut can be useful for saltwater activities or kitchen knives. I think a good hard D2 is tough enough, stainless enough and will keep a far better edge than 14C or NitroV etc on a budget knife. 154CM and VG10 can be nice too, love how 154CM bites. I find S90V to have the best chainsaw effect and keep it for very long, this thing is a little scary I love it.
D2 is a great steel. It has a solid balance of edge retention and toughness. It's often called "semi-stainless," so it will resist some corrosion, but I've heard from folks in humid climates that they occasionally see rust spots on it. But it's a great, well-balanced steel. I'm old enough to remember when it was only available on high-price knives. The fact that you can get in budget-friendly knives today is awesome. -George
Great edge retention for the money. As a severely corrosion averse type, I kept away from it for a long time. Eventually I bought a CJRB Agave in D2. I've treated it like my stainless knives for two years. No coating it with oil or EDCi. About a month ago I saw a tiiiiiny spot of rust on the forward finger choil, probably from sweaty hands in summer months. It came off with a rust remover with ease. Other than that, in two years the blade has only darkened some. I'm much less snobby about D2 these days.
@@BladeHQ- I enjoy my D2 Deckhand from Kizer. I'm in Florida and wear it as a neck knife. I had spotting once ... but cured that by using KPL Knifeshield when I clean the tape adhesive off the blade. It's been my experience that unless you are actively dunking your D2 in salt water... as long as you oil or wipe you blade in a protective every day or so you should be good. Obviously... if you've used the blade heavily and worn the coating off you might want to recoat the same night.
Nah you gotta understand what steel is right for what application. A lot of knife makers make a variety with a range of applications, if you plan on batoning and and beating up the blade, better get one made out of tough steel. Want a knife that's going to retain its edge, for say hunting/game processing etc., get something with more edge retention like s30 on up, in a controlled environment where edge retention is everything, maxamet is your best bet. Underwater rescue in salt water? Lc200
Can you recommend a ultra-premium steel for Arizona law enforcement knives? Due to our low humidity, we do not need corrosion resistance, but toughness and edge retention (wear resistance). Our cops use their knives for everything! - screwdrivers, cutting through fences, slicing seat belts from burn victims, et al. We do not need a recommendation on a specific brand of knives - we will find a manufacturer once we learn which steel is ideal for Arizona LEOs. Can you make a recommendation?
CPM CruWear or CPM M4 are my recommendations. Both are super tough and have stupendous edge retention. Neither is stainless, but it sounds like that's not an issue. There are a ton of great knives made with both of these steels, so you'll have no trouble finding your ideal blades. Thanks for watching!
Out of all the different steels I have, Including M390,20cv, Nitro V and others. I'm liking my blah blah with D2. Like anything a little maintenance goes a long way. I kinda like to try the powder steel version but it slipped my mind what it's called. It's something that I heard quickly referenced and that's why I can't remember.
Honestly if d2 is heat treated properly and maintained just a bit its gonna do 99.99% of everything most people would need it to do i would call myself a steel snob but its really really mostly unnecessary
A nice knife clipped on and in the pocket an inexpensive small light knife for anything that might damage your knife or to loan to dumb asses that never carry a knife.
Just the three coordinates of wear resistance, toughness, and corrosion resistance provide a 3 dimensional cloud. Add in production knife heat treatment and blade geometries, and its more dimensions than we evolved to understand. That said, there are bargain and best options on all these axes. Wear resistance: D2 (non-stainless) is a bargain. S90V (stainless) is best among common knives. Toughness: 14C28N (stainless) is a bargain. 3V (non-stainless) is best ". Corrosion resistance: H2 is a bargain. Vanax 37/Superclean is best ". Balanced? K390 (non-stainless) may be the best knife steel ever, but it isn't very corrosion resistant. Closest stainless in this multidimensional space is MagnaCut.
I live in a dry environment, corrosion resistant means basically nothing to me, a good tough knife that will take a beating with minimal care is what i like
Esee runs their 1095 soft since they’re survival knives and they don’t want to deal with warranties left and right. Find some 52100 or 80crv2 at 61-62rc to see how great a simple low alloy can be.
Yes, it is… Of course there is no single best steel for all applications, nor are many people likely to agree on the best steel even for a single application! However, if we want balanced steels, with high levels of all 3 major knife steel characteristics, the choice comes down to a few, including Magnacut and a few others among the stainless steels. Also filling the bill (good wear resistance and toughness), apart from the stainless steels are CruWear, M4, K390, 4V and Vanadis 8, among others.
damascus isn't a specific steel. it's two steels mixed together, and the two steels can range from cheap horrible steels, to the best supersteels on the market. So there's no real answer to your question unfortunately. You'd have to research what the damascus the knife you're interested in is made of. If you want consistently good damascus, though, look for anything made of damasteel or damacore. They're damascus that has been optimized with two steels that work incredibly well together, and they have very good properties in all categories, competing with the top supersteels. Great edge retention, toughness, and very stainless. Both are incredibly gorgeous too.
80CrV2, AEB-L, and Sandvick 14c28n are some of my favorites out there depending on my purpose. The only "super steel" that I think earns that title is Magnacut, but I don't think it's worth what everyone is wanting to charge for it.
White river just released a new Ursus cub model and their model 1 in magnacut for a fair price imo. They take it to a great hardness and have wonderful fit and finish and grinding. Those listed steels are all favorites of mine as well
It's a great steel! It's often compared to M390, and I don't think any user could tell a difference between them in daily use. Elmax offers great edge retention and a very fine grain structure. If you have the sharpening skill, it will take a nice polished edge. I think it's a great choice for a premium folder! -George
I have magna cut in a 63 and my s90v is coming at a 60 hrc. I'm going to test the shit out of them I'm collecting chef knives so far I have vg10 zdp 190 and magnacut soo s90v and next is k390
Acknowledging that heat treat and blade geometry matter more than just about everything else, I'm going to state my opinion that 14C28N and aEB-L are about the best all around steels there are out t here. Some do specific things better, but as an overall jack of all trades, master of a couple, 14C28N/AEB-L will cover more bases than almost anything.
@@itsSmiv At present, yes. MagnaCut hasn't been on the scene long enough to have established the reputation that 14C28N has. It may turn out that with several years of testing and trial that MagnaCut is all we hope it to be, but for the present I'll stick with an old reliable. Even so, AEB-L/14C28N offers something MagnaCut doesn't and can't: field utility. If my Sandvik blades get a chip in the field, I can reprofile and sharpen them with a stone. A problem with MagnaCut in the field will be there until you get to a pro.
@@itsSmiv Of course, that hasn't stopped me from, buying an Esee Sencillo in MagnaCut. I like it a great deal, but I have found I'm carrying my Esee Pacaya in 3V a lot more.
This is a solid into, but there a couple of things I want to correct. Firstly, s90v is generally tougher than maxamet within their respective hardness ranges. S90V is actually weirdly balanced for it's edge retention. Secondly, heat treat is as, if not more important, than steel choice. Ht won't make a bad steel great, but it can make a great steel terrible.
Y is definitely better then X. I mean X is super cool and all but Y is just so much more useful in the day to day.
Meh, Y is alright. Blade retention is rather poor. I find myself drawn to X for its versatility.
The best knife steel is the one you don't own yet.
No. No it's not. Magnacut 🐐🐐🐐
@@MichaelBertolinoyou're right it's definitely not magnacut
I know right... but it should be the one you own
@@StoneHands25 It is... Magnacut is da GOAT
LOL absolutely.
This video is well done - I appreciate you not overly "taking a side" when there is so much performance nuance to edge retention/wear resistance, carbon & carbide size, corrosion resistance, toughness - and less understood attributes such as edge stability, microstructure, impact/shock resistance, heat treatment, geometry, sharpening method micro-physics, and hardening potential. Well done - cheers.
K390
M4
Cruwear
Magnacut
These have been doing what I need for a while now honestly
In that order as well
Only 1 of those looks like you could give it a good edge in the field.
@lordtartarsauceb8348 a small diamond stone or spyderco sharpmaker can make quick work out of these or an easy touch up
@@lordtartarsauceb8348 I'll make sure to have a 1095 sharpened crowbar with me 'in the field' to make you happy, ok? I won't use it, it's only there to make you happy. Are you happy? I hope you're happy. I'm a man of my word.
"Trash can steel is the best" - Huusk 😂
S30V and S35VN are great all around blades. I love 20CV as well. There are a lot of good knife steels these days!
Well said. I agree with everything. I took the path of buying many knives over many years and have developed my preferences. An attribute never mentioned I value has been referred to as front end sharpness after I describe it. Working edge retention isn’t something I care about on my EDC. But how much front end sharpness, how long it lasts and how easy it is to maintain along with lateral edge durability are primary factors in my EDC steel preference.
I totally agree with your view on usefulness for an EDC knife. The best for me is Victorinox steel. I can get front end sharpness to my liking quickly and rust is never an issue. Super steels are too hard to sharpen to my satisfaction. I think the tempering has a large affect on getting the edge I want. Geometry also makes a huge impact. Victorinox just has the best QC overall that I have seen. I've spent way too much money over the years chasing better only to be disappointed and not wanting to carry or use it.
The VG10 steel in my Delica 4 has always worked for me
It helps that Spyderco tends to have very good heat treatment protocols for a mass production company.
same here bro!!!!
I shunned VG10 at first, but I now greatly appreciate a Spydie FRN model in this steel.
@@PoetFisherman What doesn't help is Spyderco making very ugly knives
@@Jennie-w6n I suppose this is a good illustration of subjective beauty
Early on in my knife game I chased the 'super steels'. Then I got a good sharpening rig and a good strop. Sure, I still go after the new hotness from time to time.
Heat treatment concern was my next evolution. I've found far too many manufacturers under cook their higher end steels and man has that saved me a truckload of money. Design and use case aside, I'll take a Civivi in 14C28N or Nitro-V over We's 20CV.
14C28N is one of the best knife steels IMO
You trust a company to heat treat a dog shit steel like 14C28N, but not that same company to heat treat their high-end premium 20CV?
You must be the type of guy who would say a Corvette is a terrible car and the company doesn't know how to build cars, but a Chevy Camaro, now that's a real car and car company that knows how to build a car.
14c is much less finicky to properly mass heat treat than a more complex steel like 20cv. My examples of both from the same manufacturer have lead me to my opinion.
I'm fine to differ with you on 14c being a "dog shit steel" and you assuming I am this kind of guy or that kind of guy. Value is subjective. Thanks for your opinion.
I have a couple knives in 14c, no complaints. The other dude is just talking 💩
After owning/ EDCing/ sharpening a truckload of knives of varying steels/ quality/ and manufacturers for the last 22 years, I’ve gone full circle and went back to humble roots and became pretty darn content. Amongst the plethora of knives I currently own, I keep coming back to these lowly three: Ontario RAT 2 in AUS-8, Cold Steel Mini-Recon Clip Point in AUS-10, and a Spyderco Persistence lightweight in 8cr13Mov. If you’ve used knives this long, you’ll realize that blade steel is not as important as people hype it up to be. There are many factors that makes a knife great and these factors vary in importance to different people. Super steels are a want, and it is OK to want them. But you don’t need them. I’m not telling you to NOT get super steels. What I’m telling you is to NOT judge how good a knife is by what steel it is made of.
Most people would be surprised how well budget steels will work on both folding and fixed blades
I tend to carry Opinels and SAKs, but I do like 14c28n if it's done nicely. Magnacut seems OK, tbh
I feel the same way. Steel isn't the main thing I look at when getting a knife. However, I carry a large inkosi and beat the hell out of it. Great knife for me.
that's a lot of words just to say you're poor
@@macdaddysmurf05 OK man… must be nice to have tons of money, like you. Wait, just let me get down on all fours so I could kiss your boots for a bit.
"7cr13 is the best steel" - Gerber
😂
😂😂😂
Crkt begs to differ..
Hehe
Bitch please, generic nameless “high carbon stainless steel” is the best.
I've long thought that Cruwear is under-appreciated. For a tool steel, in most environments, it's always been pretty rust resistance. Tough as nails, and holds an edge well. Seems to sharpen up pretty easily too.
One of my EDC folders is Cruwear and I've had no issues with it at all. It's been great.
Among people that have tried everything, it seems that CruWear, K390, MagnaCut, rex 45, and humble 14c28n are among their absolute favorites.
1. heat treat
2. heat treat
3. geometry
4.type of steel
the most important factors
What is the best type of knife design and geometry in your opinion?
1. Geometry
2. Heat treat
3. Steel type
55hrc k390 would hold a shitty edge because it'll just mushroom the cutting edge before the carbides help you.
Geometry of a brittle steel will make a tough knife and cutting edge, and a tough hard steel will hold a fine geometry and give much higher edge retention.
Steel gives the edge rention and toughness hardness balance, but some are worse than others objectively, but the geometry and having it hard enough matter a lot.
Soft edges just mean you need thicker bevels and get even less edge retention, usually in a steel that's already super tough like 420HC. It's like taking a monster truck to a racetrack, it's maximized for the wrong thing. MagnaCut at 62 will do everything well and the geometry will dictate if it's a competition chopper or a Japanese kitchen knife.
I like this style. Way to go Blade HQ!
I have a friend who knows everything about knife steel properties and is disgusted that I even own 20 Dollar knives. I'm not bothered by the weaknesses of some of my knives, because I simply clean, sharpen and wax them to keep them in shape. His knives look pristine, because he never uses them. I'm not a dick about it, because he provided useful information for special future-heirloom knives I bought. But seriously. Even cheap steel is still steel!
Great points. However when doing lots of work, you want a steel that can hold an edge
@@JamezEd1tz Of course, I'm not saying that it doesn't matter, but my EDC for cutting baloney, paracord and packages is an affordable Kershaw Culpepper that looks so pretty, old-school and modern at the same time. We have good knives here in Germany, but unfortunately there is a tendency to make all knives look "tactical" which I find pretentious. To me it feels like buying an Iron Cross/Purple Heart. I also have expensive knives I use for serious work when I'm hiding in my garden shack, but they don't look nice.
Sometimes I look at my old PM2 and think S30V is outdated and lame. Then I remember it’s a far superior steel to basically any blade made in all history until the last 40 years. 😅
I feel the same about my S30V Para3. I keep wishing it was Magnacut or something newer and fancier but remember for years this thing has taken a beating and keeps ending up in my pocket over newer knives I’ve gotten. That being said, I will 100% be getting a Salt PM2
So true.
I consistently get better performance out of Spyderco's S30V than I do We Knives' 20CV.
Same, hard to justify replacing it.
@@charlesburtis2442Spyderco’s S45 is pretty dang impressive.
It’s definitely tempting
S35vn is well rounded
I’ve always felt like a well treated s35vn could go up against magnacut honestly
When done right, it's in the top of my list of favorites. The Spydercos with the blue FRN scales; man the S35VN is so good on those.
S35VN on my Cold Steel Recon1 is extremely well treated
@@LostTrailX
Unless that Magnacut is way too soft (which some manufacturers do, it needs to be hardened to 64HRC for optimal performance) it will hold an edge about three times as long. If they are both at 58HRC they might perform very similarly.
Magnacut appeared, everyone wanted knives made of this steel. Sales of knives made of other steels have plummeted. Now all the sellers have run to tell me that others steels good too. Of course, you need to sell stocks of this stuff from warehouses.
Sales of other knives haven't plummeted. The vast majority of people buying knives are not buying magnacut. Most people dont know or care about steel, and most people are cheap and not willing to spend for even s30v, let alone magnacut.
@@Trolldaddy5yeah those are the people who use their knives and are not knife nuts. But the knife nuts are the people who these company’s target because there are weirdos who will buy 10+ CRKs. A knife that’s supposed to be a buy once cry once type of knife is being over bought and out of stock by knife nuts. And once they’ve sold these gullible office dwellers on magnacut they buy em up like candy. Literally printing money. While magnacut is an objectively amazing steel knife nuts buy it for the novelty. They don’t actually use their knives. They play with them.
Knife hobby is an N+1 hobby. there is always a room for another purchase. :) currently own a Tenacious, Resilience, Mora 546, Rat 1 in D2 and Esee 4HM. Planning to get a Dragonfly 2 in H2 soon.
Tell me more about “edge geometry and grind angles “
YES! THIS!
I think for edc knives, edge retention is the go-to for me. I don't have to sharpen it every single week. it is really satisfying.
3V for my bark river for batonning and tom follery outdoors. M390 for my daily folder.
Love me some 3v and A2
Became an immediate fan of magnacut. I personally don't need anything better. Great corrosion resistance for my humid environment and stays sharp for a very long time and is pretty easy to sharpen.
I think an important aspect is also price - different price ranges bring different steels to the table and you should consider if that steel is worth that price tag. And also another thing is ease of sharpening or ease/capability of restoring an edge with a strop which might be very important to people who don't have a lot of sharpening knowledge and equipment or people who for example do a lot of backpacking and have a need to restore that edge on the go in the woods for example. Heat treat is also very important... a budget steel done properly will be better than a premium steel with a poor heat treat.
Keep these videos coming guys!
Just got my first Magnacut Kershaw Livewire. Impressed so far
Nice. It's a great knife.
I picked up a double edged model and the spine edge was a bit rough so I sharpened both edges to two different grits. It's been cool to have a super refined edge and a more toothy one on the same blade. Fun stuff.
Gotta love Kershaw. It's been my favorite brand by far for years now.
I got the tanto magnacut livewire. I love the knife but it sadly was poorly sharpened at the factory. Spent a good 45 minutes getting it nice and sharp and it's been an absolute champ ever since. Been about 4 months now and other than a few strop sessions it's still mad sharp.
@TerminalM193 I of course am not a fan of poorly sharpened blades from the factory but I suppose the silver lining would be at least now you have the worst of the burned edge off.
I like this knife so much I've been seriously considering getting that tanto. It's a very slick looking blade.
Considered the Kershaw bel-air?
Have the blurple spyderco 2 S 110 V steel and have been loving it.
Nice video. You definitely kicked it up a notch. Great production quality. I like the background especially in the opening seconds
Time stamp plz?
Pretty good timing here since I am currently trying to decide on whether to wait for the Spyderco Military 2 to be available in S90v or buy the already available S30c version
I jumped on the s30v version and love it. If you like PM2’s you will LOVE the Military 2. Cants wait for the cruwear version 😅
@@DuhYaThink This is going to be my first Spyderco Knife. Second that I have bought for myself
@@valderhide1674 Very nice 👍🏻
Is Swiss Army knife steel any good?
My personal fav is CruWear.
Edge geometry and grind angles... We can help with that!
Wanna try 3V. I hate when my edge rolls from accidentally hitting a stable or something.
Awesome vid. I thought I was subscribed, I am now. I bought the BHQ exclusive Kershaw Launch 4 in MagnaCut & Ultem scale. It's a sweet little auto for us stuck behind enemy lines in the P.R.K. I'm in the sandy eggo sector.
Avoid the urge to go with the trend for a second camera shooting from the side of the face... It's just awkward! Good information otherwise!
This is the first video of yours I’ve came across. Great information, thanks. Subscribed 👍
Awesome, thank you!
Depending on heat treatment and what type of performance you prefer, MagnaCut can flex into multiple uses. MagnaCut ranges between CruWear & 4V in toughness, between S35VN & M390 in edge retention, and right under LC200N/Vanax in corrosion resistance.
Yep. The best heat treatment on Magnacut I have that has been a great and versatile blade is from MKC. It's simply superior to what I have from others.
@@Swearengen1980 Theres quite a few manufacturers that do MagnaCut correctly. It just depends on your price range and what you’re going to use it for. Mind you, edge geometry and the process of how the HRC is reached, is arguably more important. Is your MKC model the only MagnaCut knife you have/experienced?
@@alexferrara9287 Nope. A Bradford, Kershaw, Spyderco and MKC. In terms of quality, I'd put them at MKC, Spyderco, Bradford, Kershaw....despite me absolutely hating Spyderco's style (great knives, just ugly to me).
For light EDC tasks my favorite knife blade steel are AUS8, 14C28N. Budget steels but easy to sharpen and no corrosion at all.
thanks George, a fan from New Zealand (fush un chups bruh) since the Ben and Zac days... and you are living up to their standards, keep it up... but please, don't leave... 😂
Well said George!
What was the cpm 3v knife?
Subbed. Awesome channel thx. I sharpen regularly using supposed "Tungsten Carbide" blades from large paper cutters modified for my simple machines.
These blades are readily available online in bulk. I'm probably looking to experimenting with making my own blades after your recommendations. 😉
Tbh my Microtech MSI with the m390MK has been working out perfectly for me. Holds its edge extremely well holds up to the light prying I do with it (I have a pocket pry for prying) and even in heavy sweating not a spot of corrosion or even discoloration.
You know what steel surprised me the most S35VN on my protech SBR with a blade under 3 inches. I batoned (YES BATONED) a 2 inch diameter sapling tree. After I could still shave with it, I could not believe it.
That’s pretty normal for even non powder steel
Surprised that you didn't mention CruWear. Even Dr. Thomas will admit that it is better than Magnacut in edge retention and toughness, and still has pretty decent corrosion resistance, great even for a "high carbon" steel.
Hardness is often neglected, but imho it is a key factor in a lot of edc tasks. Toughness combines with it to give a good edge stability geometry wise. Those two attributes dictate how thin the blade can be. Then abrasion resistance plays its role in cutting abrasive stuff, which is quite frequent too, and depending on the climate, corrosion resistance will better edge stability and geometry at the very apex over time.
So I think the «best» steel should be over 63 hrc and quite tough, with a lot of high carbides, K390 is the ideal candidate for extra thin geometries, Magnacut can be useful for saltwater activities or kitchen knives.
I think a good hard D2 is tough enough, stainless enough and will keep a far better edge than 14C or NitroV etc on a budget knife. 154CM and VG10 can be nice too, love how 154CM bites.
I find S90V to have the best chainsaw effect and keep it for very long, this thing is a little scary I love it.
Whats the hatchet on the back wall next to the hammer?
12c27 is tougher than 3v?
Can someone tell me if D2 is good ? I got my qsp penguin and im in love with this knife, so i wanna know on what should i be carefull
D2 is a great steel. It has a solid balance of edge retention and toughness. It's often called "semi-stainless," so it will resist some corrosion, but I've heard from folks in humid climates that they occasionally see rust spots on it. But it's a great, well-balanced steel. I'm old enough to remember when it was only available on high-price knives. The fact that you can get in budget-friendly knives today is awesome. -George
Great edge retention for the money.
As a severely corrosion averse type, I kept away from it for a long time. Eventually I bought a CJRB Agave in D2. I've treated it like my stainless knives for two years. No coating it with oil or EDCi.
About a month ago I saw a tiiiiiny spot of rust on the forward finger choil, probably from sweaty hands in summer months. It came off with a rust remover with ease. Other than that, in two years the blade has only darkened some.
I'm much less snobby about D2 these days.
thanks !
@@BladeHQ
@@BladeHQ- I enjoy my D2 Deckhand from Kizer. I'm in Florida and wear it as a neck knife. I had spotting once ... but cured that by using KPL Knifeshield when I clean the tape adhesive off the blade. It's been my experience that unless you are actively dunking your D2 in salt water... as long as you oil or wipe you blade in a protective every day or so you should be good. Obviously... if you've used the blade heavily and worn the coating off you might want to recoat the same night.
Enjoyable video, thanks!
Buy a knife from a knifemaker you admire and trust that they've made the right decision for you.
Nah you gotta understand what steel is right for what application. A lot of knife makers make a variety with a range of applications, if you plan on batoning and and beating up the blade, better get one made out of tough steel. Want a knife that's going to retain its edge, for say hunting/game processing etc., get something with more edge retention like s30 on up, in a controlled environment where edge retention is everything, maxamet is your best bet. Underwater rescue in salt water? Lc200
CpmCruwear has been one of my favorites.
I have not tried MagnaCut yet but my favorite steel is the s45 that is on my inkosi
I have a few MagnaCut Spyderco’s. And have used the Native 5 lw serrated a bunch and it’s fantastic 👋
Brilliant video, very interesting, made me laugh at the end when George is standing out in the rain for no reason 😂👍🏻
Actually "it depends, buy a bunch of knives and find out the best steel for you" pretty much fits my tendency and is the perfect answer for me
How come we never wound up with these kind of debates when we talk about hammers, axes, crowbars, screw drivers, or pliers?
People 100% do, you're just not digging deep enough to find it.
Lol. You'd rather be talking about pliers? 😂
Outstanding job my friend this is one of the most thorough shows I have ever seen God bless you brother keep up the great work.
I ll use and sharpen anything . Learn to sharpen and all will be well . That new Hapstone rs is pretty sweet for pocket knives imo . 👍🦅
Can you recommend a ultra-premium steel for Arizona law enforcement knives? Due to our low humidity, we do not need corrosion resistance, but toughness and edge retention (wear resistance). Our cops use their knives for everything! - screwdrivers, cutting through fences, slicing seat belts from burn victims, et al.
We do not need a recommendation on a specific brand of knives - we will find a manufacturer once we learn which steel is ideal for Arizona LEOs. Can you make a recommendation?
CPM CruWear or CPM M4 are my recommendations. Both are super tough and have stupendous edge retention. Neither is stainless, but it sounds like that's not an issue. There are a ton of great knives made with both of these steels, so you'll have no trouble finding your ideal blades. Thanks for watching!
Great video! Thanks for the info, George.
Out of all the different steels I have, Including M390,20cv, Nitro V and others. I'm liking my blah blah with D2. Like anything a little maintenance goes a long way. I kinda like to try the powder steel version but it slipped my mind what it's called. It's something that I heard quickly referenced and that's why I can't remember.
CPM D2
I really like the cpm cru wear. Its holds an edge, very tough and easy to shatpen.
That was a great video George!
Does anyone have a 4max belt clip? I hooked the belt clip and instead of the knife coming out of my poclet it permanently bent.
great video guys, thank u
Well done Broh!
Great show George…thanks!
Honestly if d2 is heat treated properly and maintained just a bit its gonna do 99.99% of everything most people would need it to do i would call myself a steel snob but its really really mostly unnecessary
Got a Buck folding Alpha hunter in 154. VERY TOUGH. Got a maxamet spydie N5 for abrasion resistance and LC200N N5. Got it covered yo
George, did you script this? Great video.
I did! We tried something new, and I like how it turned out. Thanks for watching! -George
Vibrainium is obviously the best knife steel.
Wolverine would disagree with you. Adamantium all the way!!
could you please do a vid on ou-31 ?
Solid video! 👊🏼👊🏼
20cv all day I enjoy my magnacut but I have tons sharpen it 5 times for every 1 time one 20cv and I've never had a problem with corrosion with either
A great to this question: 'Carry more than one knife and each has a different blade steel.'
😮
A nice knife clipped on and in the pocket an inexpensive small light knife for anything that might damage your knife or to loan to dumb asses that never carry a knife.
What is CPM?
Just the three coordinates of wear resistance, toughness, and corrosion resistance provide a 3 dimensional cloud. Add in production knife heat treatment and blade geometries, and its more dimensions than we evolved to understand.
That said, there are bargain and best options on all these axes.
Wear resistance: D2 (non-stainless) is a bargain. S90V (stainless) is best among common knives.
Toughness: 14C28N (stainless) is a bargain. 3V (non-stainless) is best ".
Corrosion resistance: H2 is a bargain. Vanax 37/Superclean is best ".
Balanced? K390 (non-stainless) may be the best knife steel ever, but it isn't very corrosion resistant. Closest stainless in this multidimensional space is MagnaCut.
Great video!
5:05 “I assure you you have to film in the rain, it is CRUCIAL to letting the viewer know what steel they should look for”
Fun episode. I can't wait for more, maybe even longer.
Four traits Toughness, Hardness, Resistance to corrosion and ease of sharpening.
Why H2 over LC200N?
S90v is my favorite steel. It's what I look for in a knife now.
OOOOOOOO! Excellent!
I live in a dry environment, corrosion resistant means basically nothing to me, a good tough knife that will take a beating with minimal care is what i like
52100, 5160, CPM-3V, D2
@@MB-jg4tr thx for the recommendations, been liking esee’s 1095 will have a look at those steels though
Esee runs their 1095 soft since they’re survival knives and they don’t want to deal with warranties left and right. Find some 52100 or 80crv2 at 61-62rc to see how great a simple low alloy can be.
Yes, it is… Of course there is no single best steel for all applications, nor are many people likely to agree on the best steel even for a single application! However, if we want balanced steels, with high levels of all 3 major knife steel characteristics, the choice comes down to a few, including Magnacut and a few others among the stainless steels. Also filling the bill (good wear resistance and toughness), apart from the stainless steels are CruWear, M4, K390, 4V and Vanadis 8, among others.
Where does damascus steel fit? Besides looking pretty, what is it's true strength as a blade?
damascus isn't a specific steel. it's two steels mixed together, and the two steels can range from cheap horrible steels, to the best supersteels on the market. So there's no real answer to your question unfortunately. You'd have to research what the damascus the knife you're interested in is made of.
If you want consistently good damascus, though, look for anything made of damasteel or damacore. They're damascus that has been optimized with two steels that work incredibly well together, and they have very good properties in all categories, competing with the top supersteels. Great edge retention, toughness, and very stainless. Both are incredibly gorgeous too.
D2 and 1095 baby
How much does 1095 cost per pound is it good for beginner's
80CrV2, AEB-L, and Sandvick 14c28n are some of my favorites out there depending on my purpose. The only "super steel" that I think earns that title is Magnacut, but I don't think it's worth what everyone is wanting to charge for it.
I picked up a Manix 2 lw in MagnaCut for $115. But did have lots of rewards points 😅
White river just released a new Ursus cub model and their model 1 in magnacut for a fair price imo. They take it to a great hardness and have wonderful fit and finish and grinding. Those listed steels are all favorites of mine as well
I second 14c28n
3:20 hammering a cold steel knife with a brick/lock during extreme tip test, feels like joex reference
Joe X is a LEGEND! I only wish I was that cool! -George
Thank you
Elmax is my opinion is the goat, it's sooo good. I'll take it over anything🤤
The best knife steel doesn't exist. Only the correct geometry and edge on the right tool.🧐
What about elmax?
It's a great steel! It's often compared to M390, and I don't think any user could tell a difference between them in daily use. Elmax offers great edge retention and a very fine grain structure. If you have the sharpening skill, it will take a nice polished edge. I think it's a great choice for a premium folder! -George
M390 (and analogs), Elmax (my favorite), and of course Magnacut. NO CORROSION!
I have magna cut in a 63 and my s90v is coming at a 60 hrc. I'm going to test the shit out of them
I'm collecting chef knives so far I have vg10 zdp 190 and magnacut soo s90v and next is k390
Acknowledging that heat treat and blade geometry matter more than just about everything else, I'm going to state my opinion that 14C28N and aEB-L are about the best all around steels there are out t here. Some do specific things better, but as an overall jack of all trades, master of a couple, 14C28N/AEB-L will cover more bases than almost anything.
better than magnacut cpm?
@@itsSmiv At present, yes. MagnaCut hasn't been on the scene long enough to have established the reputation that 14C28N has. It may turn out that with several years of testing and trial that MagnaCut is all we hope it to be, but for the present I'll stick with an old reliable. Even so, AEB-L/14C28N offers something MagnaCut doesn't and can't: field utility. If my Sandvik blades get a chip in the field, I can reprofile and sharpen them with a stone. A problem with MagnaCut in the field will be there until you get to a pro.
@@itsSmiv Of course, that hasn't stopped me from, buying an Esee Sencillo in MagnaCut. I like it a great deal, but I have found I'm carrying my Esee Pacaya in 3V a lot more.
I must collect them all!
Yeah that’s what I was thinking about 2 years ago. Now I have over 150 Spyderco knives and need to sell a bunch 🤦♂️
@@DuhYaThink I try to mix it up over my year
only have used european kitchen steel which i assume is 420-440, 14110 and 14116 or the chinese X50CrMoV15
This is a solid into, but there a couple of things I want to correct.
Firstly, s90v is generally tougher than maxamet within their respective hardness ranges. S90V is actually weirdly balanced for it's edge retention.
Secondly, heat treat is as, if not more important, than steel choice. Ht won't make a bad steel great, but it can make a great steel terrible.
Yes, often times people forget about heat treat.