I am now going to start using it in my new hybrid. WHY THE 0-20 was not available at the Walmart I buy from. This will be my first oil.change using Castrol in my new Maverick 2.5
@@themotoroilgeekSir, what is the shelf life of sealed jug of motor oil.....both conventional and synthetic???? I buy oil on sale and sometimes too much....
@@letmethinkv said at end, 3~5 years. Pretty disappointed as well because I 'stocked up' when I was working knowing prices will go up and income go down. I'm hoping Mobil1 is going to last longer?
@@1crazypjme too, I stocked up on Mobil 1 20w50 red cap back 24 years ago for my racing BMW model 2002 Just opened some bottles and poured into my 1951 John Deere A tractor side gear case and oil bath air filter. The bottle did not have additive elements separate and collect at the bottom the oil was still clear with no bad odor. Go watch Lake's back videos where he addresses the using old stored oil topic.
Yes you right, mate. In the real world. Not just for taped rocker arm or old engine. In new engine or rebuilted engine with hard valve spring. In the same line of product, the same oil manufacture. Low zddp or below 1000 ppm. will show significant wear mark on cam cap or on camshaft, than nothing on high zddp oil.
I am happy I found your channel, and this video. I owned a '60 Mini. Worst case scenario for motor oil. The transmission is the oil pan. My dad had a thing for the Valvoline Racing oil, but also was a big GTX fan. It took me a while to connect the dots, but when I used Valvoline Racing 20/50 in the Mini it would leak from the output shafts. When I ran GTX I was leak free. After I made the connection, I only ran GTX. Not sure what it did to the shaft seals, but it worked! I had that car from the late 90's and sold it only about 5 years ago. I miss it.
I fully understand what you mean by "what oil works best for you". Before retirement, I was a mechanic, small engine mechanic, and hot rod engine builder for over 50 years. During that time, I've been an avid Valvoline fan. I've tried nearly all the brands out there, and kept coming back to Valvoline. I have this ability, as do most hot rodders and good mechanics, to be able to tune into the vehicle. I know every sound, every nuance, every quirk of the vehicles I drive. Recently, I decided to try a different oil in my 2014 Ford Edge 3.5L with 78k on the clock. I have to admit that I have never been so amazed with an oil change in my life. I decided to try Pennzoil Platinum 5W-20 just because I've never tried this technology before. I've now dropped my Valvoline to the back burner and will continue to use the Pennzoil Platinum. The car is smoother and much, much quieter than it has been since new. In fact, I've NEVER heard, nor felt my Ford Edge run better than it runs right now. No, I'm not selling the oil, nor am I paid to promote it. I just decided to post my findings when I heard the statement of "...oil is best for YOU". This is the most critical statement anyone could ever make.
I have same experience with Pennzoil and I was not a Pennzoil fan to began with ever since that out come it's been my preferred motor to use in my vehicle.
You should try out the ultra platinum and see what it does. Project farm did a video on the different varieties of pennzoil and the ultra was significantly better than all of the others.
@@HeheICreamed Project Farm is a joke.Anyone who has claimed that fish oil based WD-40 is a better penetrant than solvent based PB Blaster is pumping sewage I blocked Project Farm after that, I dont need to see nonsense videos.
Great video. I love getting into the science of engine oils. It always leaves me looking for the next best thing from my engines. Can't wait for part 2
Lake: you need to keep making oil analysis/ test videos. YOU really know what you are talking about. I also started to watch more videos of you, such as piston rings. I can not thank you enough. Also: the DRIVEN break in oil explanation REALLY got me, now I understand a lot more. Thanks to you and Don.
My Recent experience with Castrol GTX Classic 20w50 oil is that its Very Low Foaming oil an important Factor most overlook when judging oils. Real World Testing.
The Castrol GTX Classic 20W50 oil is working great in my 1999 454 Gen 6 Big Block Chevy V8. I was using Castrol Edge 10w30 synthetic prior and experienced severe oil foaming recently with a Brand New Moroso COPO Camaro Street Strip Oil pan installed. I called Moroso Tech and told them the oil Pressure was dipping down from 80 psi to 20 psi Hot while cruising driving. The hydraulic roller lifters clattering away. Stop my truck shut it off wait 5 minutes restart the 454 Chevy and 80 psi oil Pressure back and lifters quiet again The Moroso Tech told me tear the engine down see what failed its not the oil pan and that was True, Moroso COPO Camaro oil pan not at fault any. I decided to drain the Castrol Edge 10w30 into a clean pan and poured back into the original Castrol 5 quart jugs. Placed the caps back on each the shook Vigorously. Took the cap off to my surprise there was 1.00" inch of Foam on top of the oil ! I had 7 5-quart containers of Castrol GTX Classic 20w50 oil put away . The Moroso pan holds 7 quarts of oil and the Big Baldwin Truck Filter holds 2 quarts. 9 quarts total I filled . Started the 454 Chevy up and 90 psi oil Pressure instant on the guage. Went for a long ride and the oil Pressure held 80 psi Steady 0-120 mph ! Problems solved by Castrol GTX Classic 20w50 oil.
Oh no.. ! This is the 3rd video of yours that I've watched in a row! I usually purchased Castrol, but have been using Mobile 1 full synthetic in the 2019 Honda I purchased last year
I have a 73 firebird, 72 c10, and 69 corvette and I use castrol gtx high zinc or valvoline vr1. The “newer” cars 88 trans am and 96 full size van i use regular high mileage oil. So far my engines have been really good with no funny noises and working very nice. Great video!
13:05 Don't forget to tell us the temperature that the oil bath is running at during this test! Seems to me it should be similar to what the temp is in an actual running engine.
I think the challenge for classic car guys and their engines is how much zinc is needed to protect the older flat tappet cams in those engines. Lots of stories about the new oils not having enough zinc and the engines experiencing early cam failure. So, what is the minimum level of zinc and/or other additives needed for these older flat tappet cams?
The difference you see with GTX is it won’t bubble and separate at high rpm like other oils. I switched to gtx from synthetic in Suzuki gsxr 1000 and could one feel the difference in power but in the site glass tiny if any bubbles across it after hard ride and prior synthetic large bubbles couldn’t even really tell the oil level.
I use even Castrol power 20w50 in motorcicles hi power ... Did You study this great oil For speed..??. With 45° many days worked in city many hours with any issue... The best in twenty years... Please tell me something if You know and don't think is good... Thanks .Great SBS!
I ran Castrol gtx in my 2006 Suzuki gsxr 1000 from first oil change on and there was a considerable power increase and also after riding the oil in sight glass would be easily visible with tiny bubbles but the original synthetic oil would have huge bubbles and could barley tell oil levels. I did this after my father told me that’s what would happen because Castrol gtx doesn’t start separating and bubbling like that until 11k rpm and other oils will at much lower rpm. And I was doing 15k+rpm and 180+ mph hits daily.
Last Castrol GTX I saw at Wally world was a new Semi Synth. My thought was evidently they are phasing out any conventional oils. I'm going to have to go look closer now.
Thank you for taking time to do your oil analysis videos Lake! I was wondering if you will be doing one on Shell Rotella oil. Specifically their 15W40 diesel that many use in older flat tappet engines. Thanks!
After watching this Video, I think the Classic with more Zinc and Phosphorus in it would be a better choice for my 2016 Yamaha FZ-07 ..Motorycle with a wet Clutch.. They say wet Clutches can slip with high gas milage car oils in them. Motorcycle oil costs twice as much as car oil does. I just found this Channel, but I have seen you on Stapleton42 at Ed Pinks Shop .
@@themotoroilgeek After I made the comment I found a Semi Synthetic Castrol Brand for Motorcycles.. Considering most Motorcycles have Wet Clutches I assume the Motorcycle stuff would be correct for the application. For Diesel Trucks I switched from Mobile Delvac Super 1300 15W-40 to Shell Rotella When Oil Prices got so high and Sam's Club was $120.00 per barrel cheaper than Mobil was from my Local Supplier who Delivers for Free. When I save $240.00 on two Barrels I can buy a lot of Groceries at the same time I am at Sam's Club with the $240.00 I saved. The Motorcycle oil is $2.00 per quart more. I bought 20 Quarts of the 10-40 in 2019. Just changed my oil again takes 2.5 quarts per change.. So I still have 7.5 quarts left plus another 4,700 miles to go before I need another oil change.. www.walmart.com/ip/Castrol-Actevo-4T-10W-40-Part-Synthetic-Motorcycle-Oil-1-Gallon/395747153?adsRedirect=true
On a 1990 4Runner 3VZE with bucket shims below the cams, it came off a lease at 65K miles for me to purchase with a 5sp manual in 1993.. I put 235K miles and did my own oil changes. I used Castrol GTX 10w-40 and the Castrol 20-50 Syn Blend. at 300k mi, we discovered cam wear when a HeadG blew. So after all that waiting during covid, for parts & new Toyota cams, I'm running Driven HR5 10w-40 conventional or other elevated ZDDP 10w-40 conventional oil. I am a believer that the lack of zddp in my off the shelf castrol oil was a contributor to cam wear. I knew nothing about zddp, but certainly it cost me some OEM cams. know more now than I did then. Castrol Classic did not exist then.
I was surprised you didn’t mention the flat tappet cams. I have a ‘74 MGB. Some folks say high ZDDP is only important during break in. Others say to use oils w/ high ZDDP all the time. Just found your channel. Thanks for sharing your insight!
I use zinc additive on flat tappet engines on a regular basis, but especially during break in. Modern garbage oils (thanks to the miserable EPA) have little or even no zinc content. Ive been in automotive repair for 52 years, and while I consider others opinions, I never consider them an authoritative source of information.
I'm an engineer from the 60's automotive, stress engineer never been a mechanic. Your MG engine with flat tappets needs 1200ppm ZDDP not less not more. and keep away from oil additives. Have a great day.
Would love you to do one on Chevron Supreme 10w30 oil. Its one of the most popular and most reasonable brands here in Jamaica. Thats what i use mostly in my Toyota Vitz(Yaris) Just subscribed your very informative, really like your indepth knowledge and your explanations are quite easy to understand.
I just picked up a 1982 Porsche 911 SC with 63k miles. I am torn between Castrol classic zinc GTX 20W50 vs. Mobil 1 15W50. I live in Illinois with cold winters and like the 15W50 synthetic for cold starts but those ZDDP numbers with classic GTX including double the molly seems like a great choice for an older air cooled engine.
I started using the 5w-40 Mobil1 European FS in Arizona and my Lexus 2004 with the 3.3L does like it, and so does the Camry 2.4L 4Cly. it has elevated zddp the Euro FS version. The manual calls for 10w-30 or 5w-20 but I think it may be too thin.
Look forward to the test results but hope you can put the results of Valvoline VR1 new formula and old formula up with the GTX Classic and regular GTX so we can have a look at all 4 side by side and your input would be much valued and appreciated.
@@themotoroilgeek Unfortunately I was under the impression VR1 had been already tested as I seem to recall the new formulation reduced cam lobe wear from 0.003" to 0.001". That having already been done, and with the Castrol GTX Classic vs the current Castrol testing upcoming, what other oils are you talking about? There is no cost increase if one pair has already been done and the other pair is already slated to be tested.
@@danlather3046 These are two different tests. The cam wear test is not the same as the piston ring and cylinder liner test, so the two tests can not be compared. I wish we had the budget to do more extensive testing, but we just don't right now.
@@themotoroilgeek Thank you for explaining this to me. You see, I saw the VR1 new formula had reduced calcium compared to the old formula but less cam lobe wear. Then I saw the Castrol Classic has "a lot" of calcium. This raised my concern. I'm no expert but trying to make the most informed decision I can. Thank you again.
@@themotoroilgeek ohhhhhhhh okay understood. Now I get it, the ratings and viscosity make sense now. Thank you so much, I absolutely love the channel! For years and years people have debated running a diesel spec oil in the iconic Jeep TJ, 4.0 motors due to the flat tappet cam. It would be awesome if there was some sort of engine test study to disprove that theory vs regular aged oil available today. Fun stuff!
@@dad3562 the “hot rod” type oils from Driven, Lucas and even Valvoline VR-1 have 10W-30 viscosity oils with higher levels of zinc for flat tappet engines.
This last year or more i havnt been able to find conventional oil at all. Its all syn blend or full syn, also noticed walmart started carrying that new castrol classic 20 50w a couple years ago(also a syn blend) and as of last month they clearanced it all out for 15$ a 5quart jug. No more anywhere in the state I go to different walmarts and autopart stores in most towns and citys all over my state and its the same everywhere here, absolutely no more oil thats not atleast synthetic blend. After many many hours of reading and watching vidoes ive came to the conclusion its not bad to run syn blend or full syn in an old engine, its actually better oil. I just run the white bottle Castrol gtx synthetic blend with a bottle of lucas break in zinc additive in my 79 now.
Hi Motor Oil Geek! I've got a question to which I cannot find a definite answer for years. What oil should I use in a 4-cylinder 4 stroke 1200cc air cooled, gasoline (carburetor) engine manufactured in 1980? It doesn't have oil filter by design and oil temperatures normally get to 110-120 degrees Centigrade. Should I use Mineral, Semi-Synthetic or Synthetic oils? What viscosity would you advise to use? The car is being driven only during summer months (ambient temps at 20-30 Centigrades). What other of oil parameters I shold be looking at? Viscosity Index? TBN? Flash point? Owner's manual calls for specific oil which is gone decades ago.I would really appreciate your detailed response on this. Thanks!
Castrol has been very good at promoting their stuff over the years. I for one was never impressed with their motor oils, except the new VW specific oil. That aint bad. On the other hand, Castrol transmission fluid is generally pretty good. This is looking at it from a Europeian perspective.
I was never a fan of GTX and used Duckhams 20w/50 as it had much lower sulphur content plus was OK for motorcycles with wet clutch. (Duckhams used same process to make/blend oil as piston engine aircraft 'aviation oils' ) Even though Honda dealer I worked at used GTX, I didn't and when I was running workshop I switched bulk oil supplier In the 80's, GTX was also ok but it got dirtier much faster, Duckhams absorbed more water if bike wasn't ridden hard (condensation in crankcase) so we would switch those bikes to Valvoline In Britain, there were multiple tests done in the late 70's through mid 80's. ZDDP 'optimum' was said to be 1,800PPM, BUT, over 2,300 PPM was found to damage bronze bearings (often used in transmission.
Hi Lake jr! I sent mobil 1630 into petroleum technoligies and the results were cst- 11.3, ca- 3929, ma- 242, si- 12, zn- 1108, ph-958, mo- 1, b- 2. Whats your opinion on that?
Jr. I have a built SBC stroker. What oil would you recommend I run? I have noticed that with synthetics they tend to leak out of anywhere possible. I was recommended to use Brad Penn 10W-40. Love the channel. 👍🏻
I remember my father talking about synthetic oil leaking and it's just a gimmick basically. Me being more of a gear head then he was i went to it the second I got my first car and never turned back. I've never had an engine leak after switching. Maybe guys running dried out cork gaskets were the ones saying it. Depending on what clearances were set up in the engine and what climate it'll be driven in can help pick the oil. Being a stroker i'm sure it's not in some winter beater. A good 10w40 I'd usually a safe bet. Plenty of firm strength. Personally I'd go with amsoil or pennzoil. Royal purple seems to be picky engine to engine as far as valvetrain noise.
I have the exact opposite experience, going from a thicker mineral and semi to a thinner full synthetic, my daily for instance stopped sweating (and burning) oil as it's less volatile. A this idea comes mainly from WWII when oils were developed heavily and more additives was starting to get used, as people started using these oils after the war the old engines started to leak. It was never the oil in itself, just worn out engines that was sealed up with the old oil, and the same goes today, it's not an oil issue if it leaks but rather an engine issue. 🙂 Pick viscosity according to clearances, fuel, operating temperature (possibly lifter spec as well), and additive package (classification) according what parts (surface treatment, lifter type etc) that is used. 🙂
@@themotoroilgeek Thanks Lake! Even though I was given the other recommendation, I never switched and Driven is actually what I have been using, so that’s good to hear. My other question is, given that there are so many formulations of oils, wouldn’t a specific filter be recommended and matched to a given oil, so it doesn’t effect it’s formulation, or are the additives not filtered out on a micron level? I think a video on filters would be really popular either way.
Good stuff! Looking forward to part 2. Any chance we could get a 0w20 vs 5w30 SP comparison next? My new WRX calls for 0w20 SP.....having a hard time accepting an oil this low of viscosity in a turbo car. Any extra info would go a long way of properly informing folks like me.
@@themotoroilgeek Understood! If you could do some kind of future segment on the thinner oils we are having to contend with nowadays, that would be very informative.
Awesome video. What about older flat tappet engines? There is a continuous debate in the Marine world on which oil to use. The manufacturer suggested back in the 80's a SAE 30w. Well that oil is difficult to find today. So many end up using a multi weight oil, which the manufacturer does not recommend in the manuel. And people end up destroying their engine with flat cam syndrome.
Hi, I have a question about a different oil than in this video... Shell Rotella T4 15w40, I've recently been told that the formula has changed and it should no longer be used in older ford diesel engines. (2001 f350 superduty 7.3L) to be exact. Have you analyzed this oil recently or been made aware of any changes that can affect the operation of the Huey high pressure system ? Thank you for the great videos and sharing your knowledge!!
Hey dude, I’m happy to see another video from you I’m new to the channel. Excellent work. Any suggestions on what to run on a small four-cylinder gdi with 13:1 compression. 0w20 is on the cap. the book say’s everywhere but the USA and Canada can use 5w30 0w30 or 10w30. Obviously, my thinking was to run one of these heavier weights for the summer.It’s a new engine, normally I run Pennzoil ultra considering Castrol edge as well
Thanks for the reply. Don’t use one of these heavy grades of oil in your engine, even in the summer. The 0W-20 is great to use. The full synthetic 0W-20 can provide excellent all season protection.
@@themotoroilgeek that makes sense, so if that’s the case in the book for the vehicle when it says Mexico or somewhere else can use 5W 30 is there any reason why I shouldn’t consider running that in the summertime for my vehicle
@@thetechlibrarian You certainly can. I'd recommend establishing a base line for wear levels via used oil analysis before changing viscosity so that you can see if the change in viscosity provides any additional wear protection.
i run 15w40 ci-4/SL on my bikes, it's the best non sinthetic oil , it runs better, low noise, loose feel on the run. i like it....and it is cheap...lol
Before I even watch this I will say that I have been using nothing but synthetic oil (without additives) for 8 years in my stock 1966 car. Real world testing.
200k miles I ran 30w in my 88 isuzu with zzp additive. When I burned a valve and they popped the head off I still had cross hatching on the cylinders. Good bearings and all ready to go. Tight as 4zd1 operates. New head and weber carb upgrade the yamato runs like a champ 23mpg all day.
I used the classic stuff for about 2 oil changes after I broke in my ford 390. I used it becouse of convenience. I could walk into Walmart & grab it off the shelf. I didn't trust it though becouse I never saw any testing or other people using it so I switched to driven. It's more money & I have to order it ahead of time but I have a trust more so with driven. Havnt had any issues so.... I do think I have higher oil pressure with driven 15w 50 than I did with the gtx classic 20w 50. Witch dousnt make sense to me? But at a hot idle, I think it's higher with driven?
Would really love to hear your thought on archoil oil additives. Both the nano-borate technology and the molybdenum/nano tungsten disulfide additives. I’ve used the nano-borate for helping with engines consuming “normal” amounts of oil - and I’ve seen several go from burning 1quart/1000 miles to less than a quart in 5k miles. Is that just the detergent properties of higher boron? Does ZDDP still have an important place in additive technology compared to these newer nano materials?
Just now i am thinking about this two oils for mi 1.6 16v Renault 98'!! Whats the Best!!? I this engine in warm weather...thanks... bests channel ... New fan...
@@themotoroilgeek thankssss very much... I worked in motorcicle police For twenty years and never any problem with castrol Power1 20w50.... Api sj and yesterdai i read this Power1 is good For My Car and Cars with recomendation Sj... SORRY IS POSIBLE OTHER RECOMENDACIÓN??.. POWER ONE OR CLASIC ! THE last ONE question.. thanks
great content! Could you please tell us the difference between PCMO and scooter oil with a dry clutch? There is not enough information on the internet. Many people use car oil on their scooters Thank you
The effectiveness of zinc as an anti-scuff anti wear additive had been long established. Use of zinc additive in flat-tappet engines is essential to protect camshafts and lifter surfaces.
So based on what you are saying should you look for API Rated oils like SG or SH instead of SN on an older engine so you get more Zinc. Or would it be better to use a modern SN rated oil and add Rislone ZDDP or Rev X ZDDP additive?
When comparing the Valvoline fully synthetic 5W30 engine oil produced in Singapore and the German Liqui Molly 5W30 fully synthetic engine oil, please tell us which of the two engine oil brands is the best engine oil for Suzuki Swift RS (Booster jet 1.0 Turbo ZC13S model car).
Love the videos!! Thanks for breaking down all the analytics. Super informative and ultimately helpful. I've used Castrol Syntec (now Castrol EDGE) for nearly 500k miles in 2 vehicles - always running "normal" non-high mileage version. It would be really interesting to me (and hopefully others) if you were able to compare it to Pennzoil Platinum GTP synthetic. Keep up the great content!!
My interest is in the diesel engine oils. I was under the impression that the newest oil was better (CK4). I have an engine builder that is pushing a ZDDP additive. Their recommendations make an oil change quite expensive. You give me the impression that I could find a good oil with high levels of ZDDP already in it.
Uh... less BP is better? But there are mitigating factors, specifically the giant domino tipped in 2014 when the Saudi'e undercut opec by $20/bbl. All hell broke loose on quite a few balance sheets. Absent that event, GTX would still be a great oil I expect. Now? It's ok, but just.. Think I'll give Pentosin a go next oil change
Good morning Mr. Lake, Talking about Castrol could you please say the difference between Magnatec and EDGE. Are they the same, is it just a marketing tag ? Both are "synthetic".... Thanks a lot in advance BimmerN53
i dont know how well the ring test relates to actual engine zddp issues which is cam protection. ive never heard of rings wearing out on engine break in but we seen alot of flat tappet cams go flat on break in when they made the switch from sl to sm. id invite any of the chemists to break in a sbc with 550+ lift solid flat tappet with an sp oil on THEIR dime. after they see a few thousand bucks go up in smoke they may pull their heads out of their rear ends theres no reason for a 20w50 to have low zddp. nobody is running it in a dang ecoboost or honda civic. its for race cars and hd equipement.
@@themotoroilgeek you said youve done alot of testing with vr1 and cam wear. ever thought of testing a stock flat tappet engine thats well broken in to see how the sp oils do? theres still a bunch of them out there and most people dont keep up with oils. it makes me wonder
what do you think about castrol "magnatec" , the oil is supposed to be attracted to the engine parts like a magnet. ideal for cold starts for example. is it only marketing ?
My and my friends vehicle model is the 2017 Suzuki Swift GLX Turbo(ZC13S/Boosterjet 1.0).The mileage of my vehicle is currently 29,000km.I am not a frequent car user.But I use Valvoline 5W30 fully synthetic engine oil, so even after 6 months my mileage is around 1,200km-2000km.But I change engine oil every 6 months.But my friends drive between 3,500km-5,000km by 6 months.The mileage of their vehicles is between 40,000km-50,000km.They also use Valvoline 5W30 fully synthetic engine oil, and they also change the engine oil every 6 months.They say that when they drive after exceeding 3500km-5,000km, their engine oil burns a little and the smoothness of the engine is a little lacking.But they say that when Mobil 5w30 fully synthetic engine oil is used, the engine oil does not burn like that and even after exceeding 3,500km-5,000km, there is no change in the engine smoothness.Is Valvoline 5W30 fully synthetic engine oil a good engine oil?Some people say that by using fully synthetic engine oil, if the vehicle is not used often, the engine oil can become sludge.Is there any truth to that?When I use the vehicle, a distance of about 23 km is driven one way, and to come home, a distance of 23 km is driven, which means a distance of about 46 km.Short distance goes very rarely.Anyway, I change the engine oil every 6 months even though it is fully synthetic engine oil.Valvoline 5W30 engine oil made in Singapore is imported to our country.I expect an answer from an expert like you who has good knowledge about oil. Sorry for typing so long to explain. Because I am also afraid of what people say about engine oil.
When comparing the Valvoline fully synthetic 5W30 engine oil produced in Singapore and the German Liqui Molly 5W30 fully synthetic engine oil, please tell us which of the two engine oil brands is the best engine oil for Suzuki Swift RS (Booster jet 1.0 Turbo ZC13S model car).
I use this oil in my 1969 327 I was having low oil pressure at idle when the motor warmed up not since I started using this now at idle at 180F its got 15 pounds
When you can buy full synthetics what is the logic of using a mineral oil like GTX? Is the saving enough to justify the inferior engine protection compared to a good full synthetic.
Some people prefer conventional oils to synthetics for various reasons (one of them as you mentioned is price). However, this video series focuses on the differences in wear protection related the additive package alone.
@@themotoroilgeek Thanks. But when you compare the incremental cost of using a full synthetic vs gtx, the difference is not that huge considering that the engine will last much longer , run cooler and smoother with longer oil change intervals. Some engines run so much smoother with synthetics i really wonder why people bother with minerals. In my country mobil 1 1 quart costs the equivalent of usd 30 due to import taxes and we still buy. I cannot understand when its less than a measly usd 27 at walmart for a 5 quart can of mobil 1, some Americans still go for minerals!!!
I know Rotella Gas Truck or Mobil 1 Truck & SUV 🚙 oil alone with Mobil 1 Extended Performance High Mileage is better for my engine because when I down shift the automatic transmission I can feel the torque in the engine. 🙂
I noticed today in a store they had castrol GTX full synthetic 0w20. I was under the impression that gtx was just conventional oil. Also whatever happened to all the different castrol options? All I see now is castrol edge.
@@themotoroilgeek so I found out the castrol gtx full synthetic replaces magnatec. So really, at least around here ( central VT ) you have Castrol edge, and castrol gtx full synthetic, then the conventional gtx options. I'm switching to the GTX from edge for awhile, supposedly it helps more against fuel dilution? Either way I want to try it. It's only sold in quarts though, and not gallon containers.
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As a retired physicist and ardent gearhead, I really find your choice of topics and method of presentation fascinating and highly informative.
Castrol GTX was my go to oil for many years. Never had any issues. Looking forward to the second installment.
Thanks!
I remember buying it for either .79 or .89 cents per quart back in the eighties. I'm looking forward to the conclusion as well.
I used Castrol 20w50 religiously in the 80s in my 1.7ltr and 1.8ltr VWs
I also always used it ! It was excellent after a tear down
I am now going to start using it in my new hybrid. WHY THE 0-20 was not available at the Walmart I buy from. This will be my first oil.change using Castrol in my new Maverick 2.5
My first car in 1984 was a 67 Camaro with a 327 4bbl in it. I ran Castrol GTX 20/50 in that car for many years with no issues. Still have the car too.
Thanks for sharing!
@@themotoroilgeekSir, what is the shelf life of sealed jug of motor oil.....both conventional and synthetic???? I buy oil on sale and sometimes too much....
@@letmethinkv said at end, 3~5 years. Pretty disappointed as well because I 'stocked up' when I was working knowing prices will go up and income go down. I'm hoping Mobil1 is going to last longer?
@@1crazypjme too,
I stocked up on Mobil 1 20w50 red cap back 24 years ago for my racing BMW model 2002
Just opened some bottles and poured into my 1951 John Deere A tractor side gear case and oil bath air filter. The bottle did not have additive elements separate and collect at the bottom the oil was still clear with no bad odor. Go watch Lake's back videos where he addresses the using old stored oil topic.
@@johndeere1951a Interesting to know. I still have it on shelf so will check by pouring it into a white container if I ever decide to use it.
If loving ZDP is wrong, then I don't want to be right.
A great song that you paraphased! Excellent, sir :)
😂
It's great in older engines with Sub-200 oil temps✅
Yes you right, mate. In the real world. Not just for taped rocker arm or old engine. In new engine or rebuilted engine with hard valve spring. In the same line of product, the same oil manufacture. Low zddp or below 1000 ppm. will show significant wear mark on cam cap or on camshaft, than nothing on high zddp oil.
Me too brother.
Me too.
I bathe in vr1.
I am happy I found your channel, and this video. I owned a '60 Mini. Worst case scenario for motor oil. The transmission is the oil pan. My dad had a thing for the Valvoline Racing oil, but also was a big GTX fan. It took me a while to connect the dots, but when I used Valvoline Racing 20/50 in the Mini it would leak from the output shafts. When I ran GTX I was leak free. After I made the connection, I only ran GTX. Not sure what it did to the shaft seals, but it worked! I had that car from the late 90's and sold it only about 5 years ago. I miss it.
I fully understand what you mean by "what oil works best for you". Before retirement, I was a mechanic, small engine mechanic, and hot rod engine builder for over 50 years. During that time, I've been an avid Valvoline fan. I've tried nearly all the brands out there, and kept coming back to Valvoline. I have this ability, as do most hot rodders and good mechanics, to be able to tune into the vehicle. I know every sound, every nuance, every quirk of the vehicles I drive.
Recently, I decided to try a different oil in my 2014 Ford Edge 3.5L with 78k on the clock. I have to admit that I have never been so amazed with an oil change in my life. I decided to try Pennzoil Platinum 5W-20 just because I've never tried this technology before. I've now dropped my Valvoline to the back burner and will continue to use the Pennzoil Platinum. The car is smoother and much, much quieter than it has been since new. In fact, I've NEVER heard, nor felt my Ford Edge run better than it runs right now. No, I'm not selling the oil, nor am I paid to promote it. I just decided to post my findings when I heard the statement of "...oil is best for YOU". This is the most critical statement anyone could ever make.
Thanks! I appreciate you sharing your experience.
I have same experience with Pennzoil and I was not a Pennzoil fan to began with ever since that out come it's been my preferred motor to use in my vehicle.
You should try out the ultra platinum and see what it does. Project farm did a video on the different varieties of pennzoil and the ultra was significantly better than all of the others.
@@HeheICreamed Project Farm is a joke.Anyone who has claimed that fish oil based WD-40 is a better penetrant than solvent based PB Blaster is pumping sewage
I blocked Project Farm after that, I dont need to see nonsense videos.
@@donreinke5863 wd40 is 50% mineral spirits and no fish oil, not sure what part of your ass you pulled that info from
Cant believe your channel has 29k subs, amazing content, keep going
Thanks a ton!
Great video. I love getting into the science of engine oils. It always leaves me looking for the next best thing from my engines. Can't wait for part 2
Thanks!
Lake: you need to keep making oil analysis/ test videos. YOU really know what you are talking about. I also started to watch more videos of you, such as piston rings. I can not thank you enough.
Also: the DRIVEN break in oil explanation REALLY got me, now I understand a lot more. Thanks to you and Don.
Wow! Thank you so much!
@themotoroilgeek nah, we thank YOU.
My Recent experience with Castrol GTX Classic 20w50 oil is that its Very Low Foaming oil an important Factor most overlook when judging oils. Real World Testing.
Technical information explained at a level I understand unequivocally. Awesome video!
The Castrol GTX Classic 20W50 oil is working great in my 1999 454 Gen 6 Big Block Chevy V8.
I was using Castrol Edge 10w30 synthetic prior and experienced severe oil foaming recently with a Brand New Moroso COPO Camaro Street Strip Oil pan installed. I called Moroso Tech and told them the oil Pressure was dipping down from 80 psi to 20 psi Hot while cruising driving. The hydraulic roller lifters clattering away. Stop my truck shut it off wait 5 minutes restart the 454 Chevy and 80 psi oil Pressure back and lifters quiet again The Moroso Tech told me tear the engine down see what failed its not the oil pan and that was True, Moroso COPO Camaro oil pan not at fault any.
I decided to drain the Castrol Edge 10w30 into a clean pan and poured back into the original Castrol 5 quart jugs.
Placed the caps back on each the shook Vigorously. Took the cap off to my surprise there was 1.00" inch of Foam on top of the oil !
I had 7 5-quart containers of Castrol GTX Classic 20w50 oil put away . The Moroso pan holds 7 quarts of oil and the Big Baldwin Truck Filter holds 2 quarts. 9 quarts total I filled .
Started the 454 Chevy up and 90 psi oil Pressure instant on the guage.
Went for a long ride and the oil Pressure held 80 psi Steady 0-120 mph !
Problems solved by Castrol GTX Classic 20w50 oil.
Oh no.. ! This is the 3rd video of yours that I've watched in a row! I usually purchased Castrol, but have been using Mobile 1 full synthetic in the 2019 Honda I purchased last year
Doing good work Lake! Thanks for the detailed info!
your welcome glad it was helpful
I have a 73 firebird, 72 c10, and 69 corvette and I use castrol gtx high zinc or valvoline vr1. The “newer” cars 88 trans am and 96 full size van i use regular high mileage oil. So far my engines have been really good with no funny noises and working very nice. Great video!
13:05 Don't forget to tell us the temperature that the oil bath is running at during this test! Seems to me it should be similar to what the temp is in an actual running engine.
I think the challenge for classic car guys and their engines is how much zinc is needed to protect the older flat tappet cams in those engines. Lots of stories about the new oils not having enough zinc and the engines experiencing early cam failure. So, what is the minimum level of zinc and/or other additives needed for these older flat tappet cams?
Stay tuned!
Great video Lake! Can't wait to see the wear video.
Thanks!
The difference you see with GTX is it won’t bubble and separate at high rpm like other oils. I switched to gtx from synthetic in Suzuki gsxr 1000 and could one feel the difference in power but in the site glass tiny if any bubbles across it after hard ride and prior synthetic large bubbles couldn’t even really tell the oil level.
I really like the Valvoline 10w-40 motorcycle oil in my Suzuki GSF1200
Castrol GTX is only oil I use even when something calls for synthetic. I am going to start using the classic on my sbc vehicle though.
I use even Castrol power 20w50 in motorcicles hi power ... Did You study this great oil For speed..??. With 45° many days worked in city many hours with any issue... The best in twenty years... Please tell me something if You know and don't think is good... Thanks .Great SBS!
I ran Castrol gtx in my 2006 Suzuki gsxr 1000 from first oil change on and there was a considerable power increase and also after riding the oil in sight glass would be easily visible with tiny bubbles but the original synthetic oil would have huge bubbles and could barley tell oil levels. I did this after my father told me that’s what would happen because Castrol gtx doesn’t start separating and bubbling like that until 11k rpm and other oils will at much lower rpm. And I was doing 15k+rpm and 180+ mph hits daily.
Bought my daughter a 68 F250 2 years ago when she got her license been using classic since i bought it so far so good
Thanks Lake for another great educational video on engine oils and lubrication.
Glad you liked it!
Thank you for the in-depth explanation about accurate bench testing!
Thank you!
Could use a VOA on castrol edge 5w30 black bottle
Last Castrol GTX I saw at Wally world was a new Semi Synth. My thought was evidently they are phasing out any conventional oils. I'm going to have to go look closer now.
I actually purchased both of these at Wally World. I was actually surprised to find it as well.
Thank you for taking time to do your oil analysis videos Lake! I was wondering if you will be doing one on Shell Rotella oil. Specifically their 15W40 diesel that many use in older flat tappet engines.
Thanks!
Great suggestion!
Used it back in the day & was a great oil. Today I use Castrol Edge in my sons Challenger hemi.
Thanks for sharing!
After watching this Video, I think the Classic with more Zinc and Phosphorus in it would be a better choice for my 2016 Yamaha FZ-07 ..Motorycle with a wet Clutch..
They say wet Clutches can slip with high gas milage car oils in them. Motorcycle oil costs twice as much as car oil does.
I just found this Channel, but I have seen you on Stapleton42 at Ed Pinks Shop .
It is probably worth the try. The moly content could be an issue for the clutch, but you won’t know if you don’t give it a try.
@@themotoroilgeek After I made the comment I found a Semi Synthetic Castrol Brand for Motorcycles.. Considering most Motorcycles have Wet Clutches I assume the Motorcycle stuff would be correct for the application.
For Diesel Trucks I switched from Mobile Delvac Super 1300 15W-40 to Shell Rotella When Oil Prices got so high and Sam's Club was $120.00 per barrel cheaper than Mobil was from my Local Supplier who Delivers for Free.
When I save $240.00 on two Barrels I can buy a lot of Groceries at the same time I am at Sam's Club with the $240.00 I saved.
The Motorcycle oil is $2.00 per quart more. I bought 20 Quarts of the 10-40 in 2019. Just changed my oil again takes 2.5 quarts per change.. So I still have 7.5 quarts left plus another 4,700 miles to go before I need another oil change..
www.walmart.com/ip/Castrol-Actevo-4T-10W-40-Part-Synthetic-Motorcycle-Oil-1-Gallon/395747153?adsRedirect=true
Glad I found that channel! TY!
Thank you!
Another great one sir !...can't wait for part 2
Thanks!
On a 1990 4Runner 3VZE with bucket shims below the cams, it came off a lease at 65K miles for me to purchase with a 5sp manual in 1993.. I put 235K miles and did my own oil changes. I used Castrol GTX 10w-40 and the Castrol 20-50 Syn Blend. at 300k mi, we discovered cam wear when a HeadG blew. So after all that waiting during covid, for parts & new Toyota cams, I'm running Driven HR5 10w-40 conventional or other elevated ZDDP 10w-40 conventional oil. I am a believer that the lack of zddp in my off the shelf castrol oil was a contributor to cam wear. I knew nothing about zddp, but certainly it cost me some OEM cams. know more now than I did then. Castrol Classic did not exist then.
I was surprised you didn’t mention the flat tappet cams. I have a ‘74 MGB. Some folks say high ZDDP is only important during break in. Others say to use oils w/ high ZDDP all the time.
Just found your channel. Thanks for sharing your insight!
I use zinc additive on flat tappet engines on a regular basis, but especially during break in.
Modern garbage oils (thanks to the miserable EPA) have little or even no zinc content.
Ive been in automotive repair for 52 years, and while I consider others opinions, I never consider them an authoritative source of information.
I'm an engineer from the 60's automotive, stress engineer never been a mechanic. Your MG engine with flat tappets needs 1200ppm ZDDP not less not more. and keep away from oil additives. Have a great day.
@@davidh3486 Thanks, over the years I’ve used VR-1, Brad Penn and most recently Castrol Classic.
Would love you to do one on Chevron Supreme 10w30 oil. Its one of the most popular and most reasonable brands here in Jamaica. Thats what i use mostly in my Toyota Vitz(Yaris) Just subscribed your very informative, really like your indepth knowledge and your explanations are quite easy to understand.
I just picked up a 1982 Porsche 911 SC with 63k miles. I am torn between Castrol classic zinc GTX 20W50 vs. Mobil 1 15W50. I live in Illinois with cold winters and like the 15W50 synthetic for cold starts but those ZDDP numbers with classic GTX including double the molly seems like a great choice for an older air cooled engine.
Go with the Mobil 1 15W-50. It provides better wear protection.
@@themotoroilgeek Thanks for the recommendation.
I started using the 5w-40 Mobil1 European FS in Arizona and my Lexus 2004 with the 3.3L does like it, and so does the Camry 2.4L 4Cly. it has elevated zddp the Euro FS version. The manual calls for 10w-30 or 5w-20 but I think it may be too thin.
best oil review & explation on the tube. tks.
Thanks!
Look forward to the test results but hope you can put the results of Valvoline VR1 new formula and old formula up with the GTX Classic and regular GTX so we can have a look at all 4 side by side and your input would be much valued and appreciated.
Unfortunately, the costs of these tests make it unfeasible to do the other oils.
@@themotoroilgeek Unfortunately I was under the impression VR1 had been already tested as I seem to recall the new formulation reduced cam lobe wear from 0.003" to 0.001". That having already been done, and with the Castrol GTX Classic vs the current Castrol testing upcoming, what other oils are you talking about? There is no cost increase if one pair has already been done and the other pair is already slated to be tested.
@@danlather3046 These are two different tests. The cam wear test is not the same as the piston ring and cylinder liner test, so the two tests can not be compared.
I wish we had the budget to do more extensive testing, but we just don't right now.
@@themotoroilgeek Thank you for explaining this to me. You see, I saw the VR1 new formula had reduced calcium compared to the old formula but less cam lobe wear. Then I saw the Castrol Classic has "a lot" of calcium. This raised my concern. I'm no expert but trying to make the most informed decision I can. Thank you again.
@@danlather3046 great observation! These results will be interesting…
Im so excited for the results of this test! I hope it’s in a 10w-30 range and not the beefy heavy weights.
The only way to run the comparison is with the 20W-50’s because the lower viscosity grades don’t have the different Zinc levels.
@@themotoroilgeek ohhhhhhhh okay understood. Now I get it, the ratings and viscosity make sense now. Thank you so much, I absolutely love the channel! For years and years people have debated running a diesel spec oil in the iconic Jeep TJ, 4.0 motors due to the flat tappet cam. It would be awesome if there was some sort of engine test study to disprove that theory vs regular aged oil available today. Fun stuff!
@@dad3562 the “hot rod” type oils from Driven, Lucas and even Valvoline VR-1 have 10W-30 viscosity oils with higher levels of zinc for flat tappet engines.
@@themotoroilgeek nice thank you I’ll check those, I genuinely appreciate it!!
This last year or more i havnt been able to find conventional oil at all.
Its all syn blend or full syn, also noticed walmart started carrying that new castrol classic 20 50w a couple years ago(also a syn blend) and as of last month they clearanced it all out for 15$ a 5quart jug. No more anywhere in the state
I go to different walmarts and autopart stores in most towns and citys all over my state and its the same everywhere here, absolutely no more oil thats not atleast synthetic blend.
After many many hours of reading and watching vidoes ive came to the conclusion its not bad to run syn blend or full syn in an old engine, its actually better oil.
I just run the white bottle Castrol gtx synthetic blend with a bottle of lucas break in zinc additive in my 79 now.
Can you do an analysis of Castrol edge titanium. I've been using it for years but I want to make sure it's as good as I thought
Thanks for the suggestion!
Hi Motor Oil Geek! I've got a question to which I cannot find a definite answer for years. What oil should I use in a 4-cylinder 4 stroke 1200cc air cooled, gasoline (carburetor) engine manufactured in 1980? It doesn't have oil filter by design and oil temperatures normally get to 110-120 degrees Centigrade. Should I use Mineral, Semi-Synthetic or Synthetic oils? What viscosity would you advise to use? The car is being driven only during summer months (ambient temps at 20-30 Centigrades). What other of oil parameters I shold be looking at? Viscosity Index? TBN? Flash point? Owner's manual calls for specific oil which is gone decades ago.I would really appreciate your detailed response on this. Thanks!
Really learning how oil works and how different oils are. Have a couple questions and ideas for a video for your channel.
Will you test 100% synthetic AMSOIL sometime?
Castrol has been very good at promoting their stuff over the years. I for one was never impressed with their motor oils, except the new VW specific oil. That aint bad. On the other hand, Castrol transmission fluid is generally pretty good. This is looking at it from a Europeian perspective.
Anecdote: in the 1970s I ran my Honda cr250r Elsinore on Castro GTX. Other oils seemed to make for more missed shifts/gears.
I was never a fan of GTX and used Duckhams 20w/50 as it had much lower sulphur content plus was OK for motorcycles with wet clutch. (Duckhams used same process to make/blend oil as piston engine aircraft 'aviation oils' )
Even though Honda dealer I worked at used GTX, I didn't and when I was running workshop I switched bulk oil supplier
In the 80's, GTX was also ok but it got dirtier much faster, Duckhams absorbed more water if bike wasn't ridden hard (condensation in crankcase) so we would switch those bikes to Valvoline
In Britain, there were multiple tests done in the late 70's through mid 80's.
ZDDP 'optimum' was said to be 1,800PPM, BUT, over 2,300 PPM was found to damage bronze bearings (often used in transmission.
Hi Lake jr! I sent mobil 1630 into petroleum technoligies and the results were cst- 11.3, ca- 3929, ma- 242, si- 12, zn- 1108, ph-958, mo- 1, b- 2. Whats your opinion on that?
Jr. I have a built SBC stroker. What oil would you recommend I run? I have noticed that with synthetics they tend to leak out of anywhere possible. I was recommended to use Brad Penn 10W-40. Love the channel. 👍🏻
I remember my father talking about synthetic oil leaking and it's just a gimmick basically. Me being more of a gear head then he was i went to it the second I got my first car and never turned back. I've never had an engine leak after switching. Maybe guys running dried out cork gaskets were the ones saying it. Depending on what clearances were set up in the engine and what climate it'll be driven in can help pick the oil. Being a stroker i'm sure it's not in some winter beater. A good 10w40 I'd usually a safe bet. Plenty of firm strength. Personally I'd go with amsoil or pennzoil. Royal purple seems to be picky engine to engine as far as valvetrain noise.
Thanks for watching and for the comment. The Driven GP-1 15W-40 is what I would use.
I have the exact opposite experience, going from a thicker mineral and semi to a thinner full synthetic, my daily for instance stopped sweating (and burning) oil as it's less volatile.
A this idea comes mainly from WWII when oils were developed heavily and more additives was starting to get used, as people started using these oils after the war the old engines started to leak. It was never the oil in itself, just worn out engines that was sealed up with the old oil, and the same goes today, it's not an oil issue if it leaks but rather an engine issue. 🙂
Pick viscosity according to clearances, fuel, operating temperature (possibly lifter spec as well), and additive package (classification) according what parts (surface treatment, lifter type etc) that is used. 🙂
@@themotoroilgeek Thanks Lake! Even though I was given the other recommendation, I never switched and Driven is actually what I have been using, so that’s good to hear. My other question is, given that there are so many formulations of oils, wouldn’t a specific filter be recommended and matched to a given oil, so it doesn’t effect it’s formulation, or are the additives not filtered out on a micron level? I think a video on filters would be really popular either way.
@@Kashed the additives are too small to be filtered out, so the filter type doesn’t impact the formula of the oil.
Stay tuned for a filter test video!
Good stuff! Looking forward to part 2. Any chance we could get a 0w20 vs 5w30 SP comparison next? My new WRX calls for 0w20 SP.....having a hard time accepting an oil this low of viscosity in a turbo car. Any extra info would go a long way of properly informing folks like me.
Thanks! The wear testing is too expensive to run on many different oils.
@@themotoroilgeek Understood! If you could do some kind of future segment on the thinner oils we are having to contend with nowadays, that would be very informative.
Awesome video. What about older flat tappet engines? There is a continuous debate in the Marine world on which oil to use. The manufacturer suggested back in the 80's a SAE 30w. Well that oil is difficult to find today. So many end up using a multi weight oil, which the manufacturer does not recommend in the manuel. And people end up destroying their engine with flat cam syndrome.
A high zinc 20W-50 is great for flat tappet cams. Check the links in the description for more details.
Hi, I have a question about a different oil than in this video...
Shell Rotella T4 15w40, I've recently been told that the formula has changed and it should no longer be used in older ford diesel engines. (2001 f350 superduty 7.3L) to be exact. Have you analyzed this oil recently or been made aware of any changes that can affect the operation of the Huey high pressure system ?
Thank you for the great videos and sharing your knowledge!!
That problem has been resolved. The current Rotella 15W-40 has all the Ford approvals.
@@themotoroilgeek awesome. Thank you very much
whats your opinion on graphite additives ? do they help reduce friction or they jus a pipe dream?
Hey dude, I’m happy to see another video from you I’m new to the channel. Excellent work. Any suggestions on what to run on a small four-cylinder gdi with 13:1 compression. 0w20 is on the cap. the book say’s everywhere but the USA and Canada can use 5w30 0w30 or 10w30. Obviously, my thinking was to run one of these heavier weights for the summer.It’s a new engine, normally I run Pennzoil ultra considering Castrol edge as well
Thanks for the reply. Don’t use one of these heavy grades of oil in your engine, even in the summer. The 0W-20 is great to use. The full synthetic 0W-20 can provide excellent all season protection.
@@themotoroilgeek no thank you for the reply! I was just wondering why the other country’s have the flexibility with these other weights?
@@thetechlibrarian fuel economy is the reason for the lower viscosity in the US.
@@themotoroilgeek that makes sense, so if that’s the case in the book for the vehicle when it says Mexico or somewhere else can use 5W 30 is there any reason why I shouldn’t consider running that in the summertime for my vehicle
@@thetechlibrarian You certainly can. I'd recommend establishing a base line for wear levels via used oil analysis before changing viscosity so that you can see if the change in viscosity provides any additional wear protection.
Hey MOG, I was wondering if you would like to do a video on the difference between motorcycle oil and regular gas automobile oil?
Great suggestion! I’ll do that.
@@themotoroilgeek Sounds great, thanks for the good content.
i run 15w40 ci-4/SL on my bikes, it's the best non sinthetic oil , it runs better, low noise, loose feel on the run. i like it....and it is cheap...lol
Very interesting. What does GTX stand for? Or is it just three letters they made up?
Great question! I have no idea what GTX stand for.
@@themotoroilgeek what? I stumped lake speed Jr?
Well, for Pontiac and Plymouth GTX meant Grand Touring Extra. I’d wager this motor oil is playing off that
@@BeardedFordTech Yep, you got me!
@@themotoroilgeek 🤣 in all seriousness I'm really curious what that means
Before I even watch this I will say that I have been using nothing but synthetic oil (without additives) for 8 years in my stock 1966 car. Real world testing.
200k miles I ran 30w in my 88 isuzu with zzp additive. When I burned a valve and they popped the head off I still had cross hatching on the cylinders. Good bearings and all ready to go. Tight as 4zd1 operates. New head and weber carb upgrade the yamato runs like a champ 23mpg all day.
Thanks for sharing
I believe the classic 20w50 in my 159 case backhoe works well.
It’s a…..backhoe.
I used the classic stuff for about 2 oil changes after I broke in my ford 390. I used it becouse of convenience. I could walk into Walmart & grab it off the shelf. I didn't trust it though becouse I never saw any testing or other people using it so I switched to driven. It's more money & I have to order it ahead of time but I have a trust more so with driven. Havnt had any issues so.... I do think I have higher oil pressure with driven 15w 50 than I did with the gtx classic 20w 50. Witch dousnt make sense to me? But at a hot idle, I think it's higher with driven?
That is interesting. The Driven oil is an excellent product.
I'd love to see the same type of analysis but on HTHS
Noted!
Would really love to hear your thought on archoil oil additives. Both the nano-borate technology and the molybdenum/nano tungsten disulfide additives. I’ve used the nano-borate for helping with engines consuming “normal” amounts of oil - and I’ve seen several go from burning 1quart/1000 miles to less than a quart in 5k miles. Is that just the detergent properties of higher boron? Does ZDDP still have an important place in additive technology compared to these newer nano materials?
I remember Castrol XLR before GTX
Just now i am thinking about this two oils for mi 1.6 16v Renault 98'!! Whats the Best!!? I this engine in warm weather...thanks... bests channel ... New fan...
Thanks for the feedback and the question. The GTX Classic would be my choice between the two.
@@themotoroilgeek thankssss very much... I worked in motorcicle police For twenty years and never any problem with castrol Power1 20w50.... Api sj and yesterdai i read this Power1 is good For My Car and Cars with recomendation Sj... SORRY IS POSIBLE OTHER RECOMENDACIÓN??.. POWER ONE OR CLASIC ! THE last ONE question.. thanks
I would love to hear your take on “ProLong” Engine Treatment
Back in the 1970's I used this in my Kawasaki 900 Z1
Great content , spot on info greatly appreciated .Hello to your dad. 83 forever.
great content! Could you please tell us the difference between PCMO and scooter oil with a dry clutch? There is not enough information on the internet. Many people use car oil on their scooters
Thank you
If the scooter has a dry clutch, you can use a PCMO in the engine. The issue with PCMO’s is with shared wet clutches.
what do you think about using rotella t5 diesel oil in a 1970 engine because of its high zinc levels for the flat tapped cam engines
Using diesel oils in classic cars are not as good as using the higher ZDDP classic car specific oils.
I like Castrol GTX full synthetic (silver bottle) wish they still made magnatec (green bottle) I use Castrol gtx in my car
The effectiveness of zinc as an anti-scuff anti wear additive had been long established.
Use of zinc additive in flat-tappet engines is essential to protect camshafts and lifter surfaces.
So based on what you are saying should you look for API Rated oils like SG or SH instead of SN on an older engine so you get more Zinc. Or would it be better to use a modern SN rated oil and add Rislone ZDDP or Rev X ZDDP additive?
When comparing the Valvoline fully synthetic 5W30 engine oil produced in Singapore and the German Liqui Molly 5W30 fully synthetic engine oil, please tell us which of the two engine oil brands is the best engine oil for Suzuki Swift RS (Booster jet 1.0 Turbo ZC13S model car).
Since we don't have either of those oils in the US, we can't comment on either oil.
Love the videos!! Thanks for breaking down all the analytics. Super informative and ultimately helpful.
I've used Castrol Syntec (now Castrol EDGE) for nearly 500k miles in 2 vehicles - always running "normal" non-high mileage version. It would be really interesting to me (and hopefully others) if you were able to compare it to Pennzoil Platinum GTP synthetic.
Keep up the great content!!
Thank you!
My interest is in the diesel engine oils. I was under the impression that the newest oil was better (CK4).
I have an engine builder that is pushing a ZDDP additive. Their recommendations make an oil change quite expensive. You give me the impression that I could find a good oil with high levels of ZDDP already in it.
what is the difference between Group 1 & Group 2 oil base stocks??
The difference is in the refining method. The Group II process yields a lower sulfur content.
Can you please do motul X max 0W40 and motul X cess 5W40??
Uh... less BP is better? But there are mitigating factors, specifically the giant domino tipped in 2014 when the Saudi'e undercut opec by $20/bbl. All hell broke loose on quite a few balance sheets. Absent that event, GTX would still be a great oil I expect. Now? It's ok, but just.. Think I'll give Pentosin a go next oil change
Good morning Mr. Lake,
Talking about Castrol could you please say the difference between Magnatec and EDGE. Are they the same, is it just a marketing tag ? Both are "synthetic"....
Thanks a lot in advance
BimmerN53
Great video what would you recommend for a 1998 Mercury Grand Marquis with 78,000 mi on it?
i dont know how well the ring test relates to actual engine zddp issues which is cam protection. ive never heard of rings wearing out on engine break in but we seen alot of flat tappet cams go flat on break in when they made the switch from sl to sm.
id invite any of the chemists to break in a sbc with 550+ lift solid flat tappet with an sp oil on THEIR dime. after they see a few thousand bucks go up in smoke they may pull their heads out of their rear ends
theres no reason for a 20w50 to have low zddp. nobody is running it in a dang ecoboost or honda civic. its for race cars and hd equipement.
Agreed. In the next video we will show the correlation between the ring test and cam wear.
@@themotoroilgeek you said youve done alot of testing with vr1 and cam wear. ever thought of testing a stock flat tappet engine thats well broken in to see how the sp oils do? theres still a bunch of them out there and most people dont keep up with oils. it makes me wonder
@@jamesyarbrough4777 stay tuned!
How would the GTX Classic compare to Valvolines VR1?
I’d go with the VR-1 over the GTX Classic
Great info again..
Thanks again!
Is higher zinc harder on catalytic converter life?
Yes
what do you think about castrol "magnatec" , the oil is supposed to be attracted to the engine parts like a magnet. ideal for cold starts for example. is it only marketing ?
My and my friends vehicle model is the 2017 Suzuki Swift GLX Turbo(ZC13S/Boosterjet 1.0).The mileage of my vehicle is currently 29,000km.I am not a frequent car user.But I use Valvoline 5W30 fully synthetic engine oil, so even after 6 months my mileage is around 1,200km-2000km.But I change engine oil every 6 months.But my friends drive between 3,500km-5,000km by 6 months.The mileage of their vehicles is between 40,000km-50,000km.They also use Valvoline 5W30 fully synthetic engine oil, and they also change the engine oil every 6 months.They say that when they drive after exceeding 3500km-5,000km, their engine oil burns a little and the smoothness of the engine is a little lacking.But they say that when Mobil 5w30 fully synthetic engine oil is used, the engine oil does not burn like that and even after exceeding 3,500km-5,000km, there is no change in the engine smoothness.Is Valvoline 5W30 fully synthetic engine oil a good engine oil?Some people say that by using fully synthetic engine oil, if the vehicle is not used often, the engine oil can become sludge.Is there any truth to that?When I use the vehicle, a distance of about 23 km is driven one way, and to come home, a distance of 23 km is driven, which means a distance of about 46 km.Short distance goes very rarely.Anyway, I change the engine oil every 6 months even though it is fully synthetic engine oil.Valvoline 5W30 engine oil made in Singapore is imported to our country.I expect an answer from an expert like you who has good knowledge about oil.
Sorry for typing so long to explain. Because I am also afraid of what people say about engine oil.
When comparing the Valvoline fully synthetic 5W30 engine oil produced in Singapore and the German Liqui Molly 5W30 fully synthetic engine oil, please tell us which of the two engine oil brands is the best engine oil for Suzuki Swift RS (Booster jet 1.0 Turbo ZC13S model car).
Se Sabe Que Cambian Ciertos Aditivos Que Son Más Avanzados 👉👍
I wish you could test one of those fancy oils like Liquimoly
My older / Classic motorcycles would benefit from more ZDP, I’m sure.
so have you ever did testes on aircool porsche and vw engine ?
I use this oil in my 1969 327 I was having low oil pressure at idle when the motor warmed up not since I started using this now at idle at 180F its got 15 pounds
Hey motor oil geek, what are your thoughts on Castrol GTX synthetic blend high mileage??
What about doing a comparison between castrol gtx classic and a very good quality fully synthetic?
Great vid!! Hope you go down the Amsoil rabbit hole sometime.
I hope so too!
When you can buy full synthetics what is the logic of using a mineral oil like GTX? Is the saving enough to justify the inferior engine protection compared to a good full synthetic.
Some people prefer conventional oils to synthetics for various reasons (one of them as you mentioned is price). However, this video series focuses on the differences in wear protection related the additive package alone.
@@themotoroilgeek Thanks. But when you compare the incremental cost of using a full synthetic vs gtx, the difference is not that huge considering that the engine will last much longer , run cooler and smoother with longer oil change intervals. Some engines run so much smoother with synthetics i really wonder why people bother with minerals. In my country mobil 1 1 quart costs the equivalent of usd 30 due to import taxes and we still buy. I cannot understand when its less than a measly usd 27 at walmart for a 5 quart can of mobil 1, some Americans still go for minerals!!!
I know Rotella Gas Truck or Mobil 1 Truck & SUV 🚙 oil alone with Mobil 1 Extended Performance High Mileage is better for my engine because when I down shift the automatic transmission I can feel the torque in the engine. 🙂
Thanks for sharing
I consider my vehicle more of a truck than a car because it is on a pickup truck 🛻 chassis. 🙂
How about a new oil with zdp additive?
i NEED 1 quart of post race weekend used oil from your pit. i need more answers !!!!
I want to learn about Lucas hot rod oil
What was the film strength ratings of both oils tested?
Sir can you recommend an oil for a 1987 Buick Grand National? 3.8 Turbo. I have a catalytic converter.
I noticed today in a store they had castrol GTX full synthetic 0w20. I was under the impression that gtx was just conventional oil. Also whatever happened to all the different castrol options? All I see now is castrol edge.
Interesting...
@@themotoroilgeek so I found out the castrol gtx full synthetic replaces magnatec. So really, at least around here ( central VT ) you have Castrol edge, and castrol gtx full synthetic, then the conventional gtx options. I'm switching to the GTX from edge for awhile, supposedly it helps more against fuel dilution? Either way I want to try it. It's only sold in quarts though, and not gallon containers.
All I ever used in my first was Castrol GTX. I put 250k on that car.