Nintendo Switch - Charging Port repair - USB C - Tutorial
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- Опубліковано 14 вер 2020
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I needed a video to show me how to open my son's switch, pertaining to a charging issue. Your video was the first one on the list. Very informative, allowed me to do what I needed to do and the switch is now charging as it should be. Thank you so much.
What did you have to do?
Honestly? I trust this gut to fix my switch more than I trust myself, Nintendo, or Best Buy. I wish I could just send mine to him
Can we send them to him? Lol
It would be interesting if you switched usb-c to different port
Awesome video, thank you! I was able to get everything done after 3.5 hours. Hardest part was clearing the old solder out of the holes. Flux is literally your best friend.
I was wondering, how do you do that btw?
@@mrlynx1202 Check out 10:08 until 10:38. He says that he's gonna apply some more flux to the area to clean it up. He doesn't show the process then, but if you're curious he does it earlier at 8:15. Flux allows the solder to melt and flow easier. He then uses a solder wick (also known as copper braid) and a soldering iron to heat up the solder. Once in a flowing state, the solder will be drawn into the braiding of wick, off of the board and out of the holes. Hope that helps!
@@portableteejay sorry im confused i was trying to get a soldering set and flux paste but i see that there is flux remover are those different thing? or how does it work do i need flux and flux remover and soldering stuff im confused...
I agree that was definitely the hardest part for me too. Then on re assembly i didnt quite plug the screen in fully and i thought i fried it. This whole thing was tough but it works now.
It was so fun watching your video; I found myself watching simply to listen to your gleeful reassembly. Thank you for the video.
I have to say good job on this video. Clear hd camera work and everything. I'm comfortable doing most repairs but will pass this one along as I don't have all the equipment. Nice vid!
same here! did you have yours repeir and did it cost much ?
@@sirgamezalot2623 i did and it was 200$ quote probably before tax or anything. So im about to attempt this fix..
I have faith in you MR Jason
It's really easy I did it
@@cupcakemommy24ccwhat tools did you have/use to fix it?
I know its an old video, but thank you. I just finished up swapping the usb-c port on my friend's Nintendo Switch. Step by step, I followed along. I must admit I paused quite a few times, but that was only minor. My biggest trouble was clearing out the leg holes in the motherboard so the connector would seat correctly. I found out the hard way what a little gap will do; it will do nothing and you want it to charge. 4 hours later and a couple burnt fingers it is finished! Thanks again
Hey which tools did you have available to fix this? I want to attempt a fix but not sure exactly what I'll need
@@BartlettMorgan I used an antistatic mat, y tip screwdriver, Phillips screwdriver, cotton swabs, rubbing alcohol, hot air station, soldering station, desoldering wick, flux, fine tweezers, and solder. Patience is key to get the connector hot enough without damaging any surrounding components.
Wow I love to read this kind of comments , we all start this way my friend and congrats on the repair , help to others 🫡
Awesome energy, straight forward, quick. Subscribed
Huge thanks with this. I was actually successful hardest part seemed to be removing the old solder from the holes. And apparently maling sure the screen is plugged in the whole way. Scared myself at first. But thanks to you my sons switch is working again
Honestly, you make this look so easy. I used too much heat, too much flux, and had a mess to clean out of the leg holes. It can be more challenging that it looks! You did a great job, one of the better videos out there for this. Would have been nice to be zoomed in a bit more, but it was a great video.
Thank you so much 🙏🏻 , I will try to get a closer and more detail video in the next one
Your video was great. This repair is for the advanced solderer. I'm beginner at best. The hardest part was trying to remove the solder in the through holes. Literally spent 6 hours just repairing this stupid port. Either way I somehow got the repair to work through many choice words and burns. I just have to practice removing solder in holes. Was not easy for me. I appreciate the video because there's no way I would've made it without it.
Lmao
Solder sucker! That's EXACTLY what they're ment for.
@Ryan Jones yeah I had one but it wasn't doing it. Probably user error.
I’ve never worked with soldering but I have worked with fixing switches do you think I could possibly do it or is it too hard for someone with 100% beginner trying to fix it?
@@mercedesgarrow2150 I was a 100% beginner when I did this. I think you can manage as well. Just follow the steps and have good solder wick and flux.
Thank you for a clear tutorial, I was able to fix my friends switch because of it
I don't have any soldering stuff, what do I need?
@@Waddlejpg google your area to see if you have a MicroCenter near by. It's nerd heaven!
What king of torch is good for this can you help bro ! Currently working on one but kind of missing some tools
I cant seem to get the old solder out so the port can sit flat before resoldering. I have the wick but I think my soldering iron doesn't get hot enough?
does it matter where you buy a new port? or what specific new port did you get to replace the broken one??
Do i need the expensive soldering kit or does the $18 one work? could you post a list of items used? Missing out on your affiliate money there lol!
Can you tell me what kind of solder to use and what temp to have the soldering iron on?
What flux and solder is this? Im using rosin core solder and paste. It just dont seem to be working very well. I could just be sh*t at this but adding solder to the pins, the pins dont seem to want to accept the solder.
This video is awesome iam doing the same thing soon just waiting on the heat blower n the flux. Love to do this jobs
where did you get the motherboard holder from?
That's some skill there brother, i would most definitely man-handle it and break something
Thanks mate, fixed it on a friends device. nice tutorial!
I’m glad this help you 🙏🏻
I d k what kinda solder they be using but I can’t get it to melt I put it all the way up to 900 and still doesn’t melt had the same problem with a ps4 ended up just trashing it ridiculous.
What kind of solder material did you use?
can you use regular propane? That is what I have at the moment.
How does the solder not short between pins of your melt that much
Can you share what thin soddering iron you are using?
Where did you get your mat?
how come no one ever replaces the thermal paste? Is it not recommended?
Awesome video. Question, what type of iron pen are you using , it looks really thin.
Is this possible without heat gun? Only with the soldering ?
what temperature is your heat station? is 480 ok?
What was that tool you used to heat it up? Was it a heat gun?
What temperature was the heat gun at ?
NIce, what is that tiny soldering iron? Also what kind of microscope is that you are using?
Very very helpful, if you could possibly drop the link to the tool set you have that would be great, can’t find anything like that around here
What kind of heat gun did you use
Really professional thx
Fantastic work!
Does someone have a link to the heat gun used at 9:26 or a comparable one?
I've got solder skills but small stuff I haven't been the best at. Wouldn't the heat gun melt the plastic of the charge port before melting the solder? I'm good with wick and flux to clean it up.
You need to make sure the inner line of pads make good contact with the new port , and that technique is the same one we use when we work on IC chips , you have to control the heat make sure don’t melt the new port
What is that second line? And I thought all those contacts had to be seperated
Nice job thanks for share with us
just for clarity, you apply flux, then solder and it will flow where it needs to go when heated?
Yea that’s the idea
The pads on the board must be soldered desperately right? They can't be tied together...honestly looks like some are just ruining a long bead and tying them together
how did you know you had power? you said you saw "good numbers" where?
Why didn't you change the thermal paste? Hope this is your personal console.
I'm trying to get rid of the old soldering in the leg holes. But it just won't flow in my deslodering braid. Any advise? I'm up to 400°C with my soldering iron. But still not better.
How did you go about this?
Can I use a regular heat gun?
Can you post your soldering station so I can purchase one for myself?
what temp and flow rate did you use for the hot air to remove the USB C port?
Me too i need a answer :D
What heatgun temperature have you use to take that usb c port of mainboard?
I use the middle one 380
40
This will be useful in the future
Not easy to get the old port off the PCB. I needed to hot-air solder it for more than 3 minutes at 440°C (with my cheap asian hot air soldering station). Ond of the little drills was still clocked - so I used a 0.4mm drill to open it. Now I wonder which flux to use to solder the new port.
Which flux did you use? And what's your soldering temperature (both for classic soldering as well as hot-air soldering)?
Yea is not easy , what I notice is that temperature is different between equipment brand , the temperature in your hot-air probably is wrong , but I recommend apply low melt solder wire so the cleaning is easier , than my temperature I use is up to 400 °C on air but not for too long or will melt the new port and do t get to close to it , on the soldering iron I use 350 °C and I repeat , temperature is different between equipment , if you have to go on a higher temperature you can do , that means your equipment is not giving enough heat.
I hope this help you and good luck
Where do I get replacement charging port to due exactly the repairs on video you just showed us?
Aliexpress
A list of all items used would help.
How much do you charge to change it
Hello, I had a question regarding the testing process. I was wondering what tool you used to test the connection for the port towards the end?
Is just and amp meter
@JoseMoralesTech what heat/airflow ratio are you using here?
To remove between 50/70 air and 350 °C to 400 °C , all rework stations are set different so find the right settings for you using this numbers
Hi, I accidentally ripped the cable for the digitiser connection. The one you unplugged first on 3:20-3:27. Any idea on how to fix it? Or do you know where could I get a spare one?
😮
Can you tell me all the tools you used
It never unsoldered for me even after adding flux and new solder to them connectors. I thought I was taking too long with the heat gun and didn’t want the whole panel to start bending. How long did you leave the heat gun on for it to be unsoldered?
I ended up breaking the motherboard by accident, I’m gonna have to buy a new one or a new switch 😭
exact same thing for me, i held my hot air station maxed over it for over 5 minutes and black shit started to bubble from it and the port never budged
How come you didn't replace the thermal paste
How do you keep the solder from touching the other pins before putting the port back on? It appears that you just brush the solder across and yours doesn't appear to bridge multiple pins together? Maybe I'm using the wrong soldering iron, temperature, solder, etc? Any advise for my next attempt?
Hey, there! I might be a little bit late, but still. What you want to use on those situations is flux. With it, you're helping the solder's flow and it will basically work as shown in the video. For temperature, I would not go too high because that might rip off the pads and the traces if you struggle a bit and use the iron a little more. If you want a suggestion, start with 300° C and work your way up 10°C at the time until you see the solder liquify. Then, once you see it, add 10 more and try to work on it. If it's still struggling on bigger pads (Like ground ones), you can try to increase the temperature a little bit more or change your tip for a bigger one. Hope this will be helpful!
use lot of flux and good temperature
Question: when you added solder to the entire section of connection pins, how does that not just attach all pins together essentially forming one big connection and frying the mother board when plugged in?
Adding Flux first will allow the solder to attach to each individual pin rather than one solid strip of solder which would fry the board.
I was wondering the same thing. If you watch him, it looks like he just lays a lond bead of solder covering all the pins...maybe it's just the view,but they appear soldered together
ua-cam.com/video/0b_AA7uj388/v-deo.html
I think it's like what this guy does ..but I didn't see the current guy wick up excess solder as I thought he would
Does it work on a switch lite
My charger port is broken and I was like yeah I can do this myself.. * watches video * closes laptop * okay nevermind new switch it is 😊
Me too lmao
My dumbass didn't realize I needed a solder and all this other stuff. Shows how smart I am lmao
Hello friend! I am just interested what kind of soldering iron do you use?
Same
Thank you for this. My concern is the soldering application: Does applying it in a line bridge the pins? Is it okay if it does? I was so worried I'd have to find a way to solder each tiny pin individually
im not goin to lie , it is a difficult job
Hey man currently working on one but im scare to burn it...😰 what kind of torch are good to take the port out... I'm using a lighter torch I haven't damaged nothing but seen you had a different one can you help or anyone here !
Thats a hot air station, no flame
Great vidéo for a tech... im screwed. Charger port problems. Thats like 50 steps. How is this the only fix? I'm definitely not getting another switch pos
my kids damaged it so rather than doing the repair, I did a hack job. I cut the actual battery cable and tunneled it out where I soldered a round headphone jack and wired a charger to a headphone plug. now they charge it directly to the battery 🤣 they haven't broke it either in a year. My buddy got his son's repaired. Lasted 2 months and it needed repair again.
Mine charges but it won't connect to the TV. I'm guessing it's the port.
What temperature hot air (celcius) did you use to remove the usbc port?
350 °C
Hello there, what temperature did you use to desolder? Fahrenheit or Celsius?
380° F
helped alot i fucked up the first time and redid it after i burned the first chip with the heat gun but after the second chip i got it done
Could someone please tell me what problem is being fixed here? Is this the fix for using a charging cable without the 56k resistor?
Likely one of the charging pins is busted and if you can’t bend it back down you’ll have to replace it
Great tutorial , was wondering if there is a specific temperature to have the iron and heat on?
Me too did you get the tip !?
300-400 is kinda standard. Assuming youve got a clean and fresh soldering tip, higher temperatures will melt quicker and transfer less heat to the board. But its easier to overheat if having trouble soldering.
Yeah I was going to ask. My old soldering station and irons used to have a dial of 1-6 or no control. My nee ones have temp controls. So I was working under temp. When I get back to it I’ll use a big nozzle on my blower and try to finish it off.
I used this video to do my first port replacement. I set my heat gun at 350c
@@mrdanker6756 300-400 Celsius or Fahrenheit?
what temps did you use on your air gun and soldering iron?
Heat gun 370 C° iron 350 C°
@@JoseMoralestech thanks for the info! I'm in the middle of replacing the USBC on an older switch but getting the old solder off was a hassle!
These high tin content solders are such a pain. Took me an hour to get all the port legs clear enough to insert a new port
does a hairdryer do it? i dont have all this other stuff for soldering exept a soldering iron
I am having the worst time trying to clear the holes for the legs on the switch. You made it look so effortless. I've tried applying more solder and heating it up and putting solderwick in there. But it doesnt want to clear. I can't get my new port to lay flush
Same. What did you end up doing?
Nice video. However, I do have a lot of questions pertaining the tools that you use on the video. You could have some commission by promoting them.
1. What brand of soldering flux do you use?
2. The brand and type of heat gun.
3, I would love to know the brand and type of that soldering pencil. It really blew me off. Where did you get it? How much does it cost? I always really wanted one, yet I never thought one of them existed!!!
Please reply!!!!!
😊
How much it cost to fix mine
Great job! Nice solder work, but you seriously didnt replace that old dried out thermal compound?
thanks we will take your advice. we keep doing better day by day , god bless
On 3:12 how did you do that?
What temp was your hot air station set to you?
Did you ever find out ?
My issue was that the screen lit up but was like black is there a fix for that
did you try to reset it , good luck
My switch stopped charging and when I try to charge it and take out the cable it smells burnt. Why does it smell like it is the usb port damaged or it's the battery?
It sounds like it has a short circuit by the Charging Port , try another charger if the same happen , don’t try to charger it anymore is dangerous
@@JoseMoralestech I tried another new charger and doesn't help. I think need to buy another battery and take it somewhere to get fixed
the best option is to bring it to a repair shop for diagnostic @@TempleofIron
Dont get my port working. Think the points i cant see are not correctly on. Rest looks good...
try to install a new one
Hardly a tutorial when you haven't mentioned temps for iron or hot air... or how long it took with hot air to remove?
Hot air at 70% air and 400 °c about 1 min to remove
Yo thank you for the video but looks hard .like how mmuch you charge ti fix it???
DM me
What did you use to clean the contacts??
Soldering wick
Thank you 😁
geat one thank you
Really nice vid, bro. Keep rockin'
Appreciate it! and thanks for the sub 🍕🍕🚀
19:40 *if there is no smoke* you are good hah.
Lol
Been trying to fix my water damaged switch. It wasn’t charging at all. I cleaned up some corrosion. Now I can get it to charge in the dock, but not with a USB-C cable. Any idea as to what I should check next? I don’t believe it’s the charge port if it’s allowing the dock to charge it. Make me think something else acts as a pass through when the dock is connected.
It's possible some corrosion had transferred to the USB cable you were using. Try cleaning the cable or using a different one.
@@crescentmoon610 unfortunately, I tried that with no luck. I also tried another Nintendo switch charger and it was the same outcome. I’ve come to learn that there is chip on the board that handles charging as well. What I’m thinking is that the chip distributes the charge differently to different routes, when plugged into the dock as opposed to being plugged into the wall. I’m looking into getting a multimeter to check this, but as for now I have the switch working, even if I do have to charge it up in the dock
my hot air station maxes out at 500, i held it over the charge port for 5 minutes and it didnt budge, just a bunch of melted black shit came out of it, i put it back together and put it up on ebay for parts, fucking rip
No new thermal paste?
my exact thought
Had to log in to comment but worth it. Good job Mr Morales. I know some of these tiny solder jobs can be a be-arch. I heard it in your voice that you were both surprised and happy that it had all gone so smoothly. I hope my job goes as smooth.
Two important things I want to bring up.
First very important point:
Temperature of heat gun and time spent heating port. I suspect this part was heavily edited and we can't guess how long it took to heat the port or how hot the blower was.
Second point:
After having the motherboard and CPU at your mercy you didn't replace the thermal paste. It's a given that this is done and . . . gosh, dog or cat hairs everywhere. A quick blow out to begin with is mandatory.
Thanks for the video. I will probably use yours to step me through when the port arrives. Thanks again Mr M.
heat i used is 350 to 400 °C from 1 1/2 to 3 min , and yes for the best replace termal paste
what temperature did you use ? and what flow rate
I used 230 celsius and 25 flow to warm the board for a minute then 450 Celsius and 25 flow to remove. Don’t want heat to spread to far into the board. So go in woth a lot of heat and remove quickly. Could go up to 500 Celsius but that’s getting dangerous.
@@joesphwarner8555 Thank you .
@@taylorcooper8721 even tho it’s 4 months later figured I’d leave a comment for anyone else having the same issue 😂
@@joesphwarner8555 Thanks really helpful. I got it off but my new one will not stick back on. What temp did you reattach it with? Did you use LMP solder?
I have my Nintendo Switch plugged and which makes the battery able to hold what charge it has but the charge never increases.
I admittedly did replace the right controller track (red side) and this new issue happened after that, but not immediately after that repair.
I did try using a different Nintendo Switch charger, I did try using different outlets. I did do the hard reset stuff. I even replaced the Switch battery with a different Switch battery. None of that worked.
I did look on Google but only found steps for hard reset.
Can this be fixed by replacing the charging port? Is this something that can be repaired? Thanks for any help on this!
I would assume it would work. I've replaced port on my phone a couple of times. When they were bad they wouldn't recognize fast chargers but chargers that were charge only would work. By that logic I would assume a damaged port could support power function but have something wrong in the charging pins
If I had to guess it’s probably the charging chip its self. There is a chip on the motherboard that controls the current inflow but I don’t think the charging port would cause your battery not to hold a charge.
I know im late, but it sounds like a battery that can't hold a charge, in which case it would have to be replaced. It's an easier repair and is sold on IFixIt.