I love my Maguras, but I have to say the pad to rotor clearance is the tightest of any brake I’ve ever used. Caliper alignment must be perfect and you have to keep that rotor super straight. However, because the Magura rotors are thicker than most they do a better job resisting getting bent out of shape.
I have had a similar issues with codes and curas. But once I find a rotor that’s straight it’s usually not an issue. Just had a bad batch of rotors lately I guess
Brake rub just comes with the territory with Maguras. And yes, they do have much tighter pad clearance than SRAM or Shimano could ever get away with, I was told by a SRAM engineer that OEM brands could never get away with Magura pad clearance, so extra piston throw is just a design constraint they have to deal with.
This. New to the MT7s on a Moterra LT. This has been exactly what I've experienced with them so far over the last 6 months. All the power, all the modulation. I'm curious what pads you're running? Slight rubbing with the Magura MDR-P floating rotors on my Moterra LT. I was not totally happy with the performance of the Magura 8.S pads. They were somewhat noisy, lacked bite on longer descents, and seemed to fade even after proper bedding. I just switched to the Galfer Purple eMTB compound pads, we'll see how they do. Spot on with the Galfer stuff, I run their Wave rotors on my Ripmo AF, quality stuff that's properly machined.
I had the same rotor issues with the Sram Centerlines and Magura Storm HC which wouldn't stay straight and were noisy due to the tight pad tolerances, Magura seem to have addressed this issue with the Magura MDR-C which have an additional support ring so they stay straight. They have worked great for me so far!
Ive been running Hope Tech 3 e3s for a bit now. Zero problems and low maintenance for me. Doesnt sound like everyones experience but that seems to be the story for every single brake setup ever.
@@ShoneDaddystick with them then, if you like the shape and don’t wish anything different then they’re good. All other Magura levers are crap because of the spring retainer, but hc3 don’t have that so all good
Love the MT7 with the HC3 levers. I also installed the 40 degree line adapters. This makes the cockpit look even cleaner. I run Galfer Pro pads and Trickstuff Dächle HD discs. Best setup I've had so far. I use it on my trail bike and on my dh bike. Even after many meters of altitude, they are still constant. Greetings from Austria 🤙
Magura MT/ with the HC3 lever is the best mountainbike brake I have ever used. I run a 200mm disc front and rear and having the option to fine tune how much modulation I have in the brakes is a game changer. massive power with control and with the race compound just never starts fading. a friend of mine runs the sport compound in his pads and they start fading after a long decent but my pands just seem to find more and more performance the more heat I give to them. I couldn't be happier and I have a feeling that I will never run any other brakes because of how awezome these are
I just did the Shagura on my brakes .Hated them the levers had no modulation .I ended up with so much arm pump my fingers went numb. I ride the North Shore in North Van BC. Went back to my HC3 levers so much better.
What bleedkit are you using for your MT's? I usually have no problems bleeding either, until recently. Im thinking its the bleed connection in caliper causing me grief.
My new bike (4 months old now) came with DHR Evos and I did not like the lever, got the Freedom coast lever and felt great. Now (a month later) they are both sluggish once pulled and have to flip the lever forward to get it back to the initial position. Tried bleeding multiple times and still the same issue. Waiting for my MT7s (had MT5s before) to come in tomorrow to replace the TRPs.
They are referred to as rub monsters everybody that I have ever known that has owned. Magura ended up getting rid of them because they cannot get rid of the rub.
@@dustinbjohnsonmy mt7s used to wear pads in to triangles lol .. more meat on the bottom compared to the top so the bottom continuously rubbed ... absolute pain
@@POBMTB sounds like an installation issue. To be fair they are very hard to bleed and align properly. I have a Shimano pair as well, and those are a breeze to work on. I like the Magura more though.
@@vlbz i dont think it was installation issue because the amount of stack spacers were as it came from NS ... used to wear the top of the pad more than the bottom lol
Mr Dustin, What do you say about formula cura brakes in 2024 ? Are they still a good brake option ? Would you suggest Cura Brakes as an option in current year ? Best Regards, thanks for your excellent videos.
Have you tried Hope brakes? Like the other comment mentioned, there's a few more but they're more boutique. Trickstuff maxima Intend Trinity Lewis LHT Radic Kaha Cascade Components calipers 612 Parts TS4 New Galfers brakes
Hey Dustin you need to try Galfer purple or the black pro pads in those Maguras. They are designed to go with there rotors and I agree they make the best pads and rotors I’m currently running Trp dhr Evos with the purple pads and trp 2.3 rotors and it’s an amazing combo on my levo
I binned the purple pads after 2 runs Pure garbage honestly Trickstuff for the win Clean brakes and power in silence Purple galfer is just noise dirt and crap
I agree with a lot of what you’re saying. I do disagree that Maguras are the easiest to bleed. The fact that you have raise the caliper above the handle to keep the air out is a pain. My biggest gripe with Maguras is trying to keep them quiet. I found that oiling up the pistons helps but it’s an ongoing fight.
You definitely not the only person I’ve talked to who thinks that bleeding maguras is a pain. All my friends that have bled them say they are a nightmare 😂 I can get them feeling perfect in like 15 mins. Haha. I showed my buddy how to bleed them and he was like… damn that was easier then people say. For whatever reason I have just figured them out. I can’t say the same for other brakes. Codes are my literal nightmare. And most people have no problem bleeding codes. I’m just weird and I accept that 😂
@@dustinbjohnson Yeah same, you lose 6mm of ground clearance and the direction feels a bit heavier for what i use to ride (technical, forest etc). I'd like to try LT with Slack, it should raise the BB and close a bit the 64,5° HT angle, so maybe a good compromise ^^
Personally I have Shimano XT 8120and XTR 9120 with 180 rotors. The 4 pods Shimano’s have never made me feel like I need 200 rotors. I also love Shimano because of the simplicity of bleeding and maintaining. True, they need to be bled often and the metal pads were out plus the fluid turns black. The Ice Tech rotors were out fast but stay straight never warp. I would never buy SRAM but own some Hope RX4 on my gravel bike. If I changed it would be those Magura,Hope or Hayes.
Wandering bite point is likely due to air in the system air stuck in the caliper, also too little fluid might be the case too experienced that, one brake was a bit mushy out of factory. 🤦 But all Shimano brakes I had leaked. So that's another possible cause. Doing a proper bleed is key to get them to work, I found it easy. I've only tried m698, m615, m6000. But never had wandering bite point until the leaked. But haven't tried the pricier brakes.
I'm not surprised with your experience with the Sram brakes as it uses dot fluid, it requires bleeding more often, dot fluid attracts water, so if bleed screw are loose or seals worn you will have water in there for sure.
Ive heard positive feedback on all the brakes you've mentioned here Dustin... different strokes for different folks, right? I do agree that if your brakes are not feeling right (to you) it doesn't matter what the rest of the bike is like, high end, low end, kashima this or that, solid brakes are a must! I ride Sram on both my MTBs and not interested in others at this point. Had Shimano, looked into TRPs, bit running Code Ultimate and Guide RSCs. I found pads and rotors i like and Ive been nothing but happy with both sets. MT7s alha e too much plastic in'em for my liking, but glad to hear you are digging them 😃
Formula Cura 4 are not worth it unless you get Rgtec levers, like I did, as the bushings on the Formula lever wear out in less than 400km. The upgrade gave a tad lighter lever feel, it was a bit smoother too. I had to sand down the original pin. I don't know of it's the case for the new upgrade by Formula. I had issue with front brake leaking, I had to rebuild the caliper, the seal was deformed so pistons got stuck. Otherwise it looked fine. I bled the front brake only once yet the o ring was shredded, rear brake I bled 5 or 6 times it did not look as bad but was worn out too le tin a bit of air. But rear brake did not need a rebuild. Getting the pistons out was hard, but eventually managed to do it. I've ridden in - 10c, no problems but wooden feel, more sensitive, more grabby. This was with Formula mineral oil. I've experienced the same with Shimano brakes.
Have you tried the shimano saint? For the new sram maven, let me tell you, they have tons of power. I bleed the sram code and they have little modulation and they are very close to shimano XTR. Just remember the sram maven are not compatible with shimano xt and Xtr rotors. I have not tried magura, trp, etc. I don’t need to. I feel riders get hung up on lots of brakes choices. Like a boy going to a candy store. For me, I have been using shimano xtr for 12+ years and no complaint. They work and why change. The sram code came on one bike and they are 2 years old. No complaint. Look, a good rider will adjust to bike, brakes, tires. If you are a rider (with a United stated cycling federation license) and competing I can understand been picky. When I was racing read my pinarello bike was dialed with shimano dura ace, conti tires, enve 4.5 wheels, etc. anyhow, like a said don’t get hang up on bike components unless you are a semi or pro rider.
I had a piston crack on my old 2 piston XTs. But never happened again. I have a lot of time on shimanos. All brakes have their issues. Just have to figure out what you can live with
Other brakes you probably did not try: All of these habe bearings in the levers, use mineral oil : These are made in Germany and are the most expensive brakes on the market: Trickstuff Maxima, uses Bionol fluid. Intend Trinity Lewis LHT Ultimate mad ein China but looks good. Radic Kaha can choose between mineral oil and dot build. Made in New Zealand.
I'm never getting Magura as no spare parts are available, have to send them to Magura in Germany for service. 🤦For me living in Norway that's probably 2 day to and 2 days from I guess judging by other packages from Germany. But still no thx. Seals can fail, wear out, pistons can get damaged and so on so being able to have the common spares, and be able to buy the other spares once you need it is a must. I mean all parts as spares. This is why I went for Formula. But their lever sucks, so had to upgrade it but I kne this might be an issue.
@@TheMTBRider96 You clearly did not get my point. No spare parts available, so have to send it to Magura for repair. Instead of fixing it at home or when traveling somehwere else. Seals wea rout, pistons can get damaged. You can snap a lever what ever. Imagine having to go shipping your car to Germany to change tyres. Despite me living in Norway thus shipping being quick so won't tak long this is not optimal.
@@mtbboy1993 most parts are available on the German online shops Not aware of a “service kit” to replace seals and stuff on the brakes Although I’m 4 years in and still going strong with no issues of any kind
I love my Maguras, but I have to say the pad to rotor clearance is the tightest of any brake I’ve ever used. Caliper alignment must be perfect and you have to keep that rotor super straight. However, because the Magura rotors are thicker than most they do a better job resisting getting bent out of shape.
I have had a similar issues with codes and curas. But once I find a rotor that’s straight it’s usually not an issue. Just had a bad batch of rotors lately I guess
Brake rub just comes with the territory with Maguras. And yes, they do have much tighter pad clearance than SRAM or Shimano could ever get away with, I was told by a SRAM engineer that OEM brands could never get away with Magura pad clearance, so extra piston throw is just a design constraint they have to deal with.
This. New to the MT7s on a Moterra LT. This has been exactly what I've experienced with them so far over the last 6 months.
All the power, all the modulation.
I'm curious what pads you're running?
Slight rubbing with the Magura MDR-P floating rotors on my Moterra LT.
I was not totally happy with the performance of the Magura 8.S pads. They were somewhat noisy, lacked bite on longer descents, and seemed to fade even after proper bedding.
I just switched to the Galfer Purple eMTB compound pads, we'll see how they do.
Spot on with the Galfer stuff, I run their Wave rotors on my Ripmo AF, quality stuff that's properly machined.
I had the same rotor issues with the Sram Centerlines and Magura Storm HC which wouldn't stay straight and were noisy due to the tight pad tolerances, Magura seem to have addressed this issue with the Magura MDR-C which have an additional support ring so they stay straight. They have worked great for me so far!
Oh sick! I’ll check those out!
Ive been running Hope Tech 3 e3s for a bit now. Zero problems and low maintenance for me. Doesnt sound like everyones experience but that seems to be the story for every single brake setup ever.
Yeah man brakes are so finicky. And everyone has a different experience. When you get one that works. I guess you just have to stick with them!
Love them too, with Oak levers, Magura rotors and trickstuff pads
Ive been thinking about the oak levers but I love my hc3 levers so much. Don’t know which way to go
@@ShoneDaddystick with them then, if you like the shape and don’t wish anything different then they’re good. All other Magura levers are crap because of the spring retainer, but hc3 don’t have that so all good
@@TheMTBRider96 what do you prefer about the oaks over the HC3s
@@ShoneDaddythe ergonomics
Similar to the HCW I liked
But in a fancier and better shape
Similar reach, yeah that’s it
@@TheMTBRider96 do they sit as close to the bars as the HC3?
Rad man! I still got to try Magura brakes. but I still got codes and SLX/XT combo that work fine.
If they work keep rockin them!
Love the MT7 with the HC3 levers. I also installed the 40 degree line adapters. This makes the cockpit look even cleaner.
I run Galfer Pro pads and Trickstuff Dächle HD discs.
Best setup I've had so far. I use it on my trail bike and on my dh bike. Even after many meters of altitude, they are still constant.
Greetings from Austria 🤙
Magura MT/ with the HC3 lever is the best mountainbike brake I have ever used. I run a 200mm disc front and rear and having the option to fine tune how much modulation I have in the brakes is a game changer. massive power with control and with the race compound just never starts fading. a friend of mine runs the sport compound in his pads and they start fading after a long decent but my pands just seem to find more and more performance the more heat I give to them.
I couldn't be happier and I have a feeling that I will never run any other brakes because of how awezome these are
I just did the Shagura on my brakes .Hated them the levers had no modulation .I ended up with so much arm pump my fingers went numb.
I ride the North Shore in North Van BC.
Went back to my HC3 levers so much better.
My magura's were super difficult to get properly broken in, but once they're broken in, they're my favorites. (Coming from SRM Code R's)
Do you ever get pad rock? Or a shutter sensation on the front under hard braking?
@@dustinbjohnsontry a smaller rotor. I had it on the rear, changed the rotor 20mm smaller, no shudder. Peace
What bleedkit are you using for your MT's?
I usually have no problems bleeding either, until recently. Im thinking its the bleed connection in caliper causing me grief.
The MT7 is my favourite brake but I can't bleed them. Eventually I gave up on them. I use TRP DHR Evos now with the Freedom Coast levers.
DHRs with freedom coast levers >>>>>
My new bike (4 months old now) came with DHR Evos and I did not like the lever, got the Freedom coast lever and felt great. Now (a month later) they are both sluggish once pulled and have to flip the lever forward to get it back to the initial position. Tried bleeding multiple times and still the same issue. Waiting for my MT7s (had MT5s before) to come in tomorrow to replace the TRPs.
I'm still sticking with XT's and Codes. I've got the bleed kits and neither has ever failed me. Keeping it simple
If it’s not broke don’t fix it! That’s my motto….. well most of the time 🤣
Did you try Hope V4?
No I have not tried those. But I HOPE to… no pun intended 😂
They are referred to as rub monsters everybody that I have ever known that has owned. Magura ended up getting rid of them because they cannot get rid of the rub.
My codes rubbed too. When I can find a straight rotor then I never have that problem. Personally I think it’s a rotor issue
@@dustinbjohnsonmy mt7s used to wear pads in to triangles lol .. more meat on the bottom compared to the top so the bottom continuously rubbed ... absolute pain
@@POBMTB interesting! Mine are not doing that. I’ll keep an eye out
@@POBMTB sounds like an installation issue. To be fair they are very hard to bleed and align properly. I have a Shimano pair as well, and those are a breeze to work on. I like the Magura more though.
@@vlbz i dont think it was installation issue because the amount of stack spacers were as it came from NS ... used to wear the top of the pad more than the bottom lol
Mr Dustin, What do you say about formula cura brakes in 2024 ? Are they still a good brake option ? Would you suggest Cura Brakes as an option in current year ? Best Regards, thanks for your excellent videos.
I actually really like the Cura 4s. A lot! I would 100% run them again
Have you tried Hope brakes?
Like the other comment mentioned, there's a few more but they're more boutique.
Trickstuff maxima
Intend Trinity
Lewis LHT
Radic Kaha
Cascade Components calipers
612 Parts
TS4
New Galfers brakes
Lewis are a Chinese ( well made ) but still, knock off trickstuff brakes
Lewis isn’t boutique, it’s a Chinese knockoff
Hey Dustin you need to try Galfer purple or the black pro pads in those Maguras.
They are designed to go with there rotors and I agree they make the best pads and rotors
I’m currently running Trp dhr Evos with the purple pads and trp 2.3 rotors and it’s an amazing combo on my levo
I binned the purple pads after 2 runs
Pure garbage honestly
Trickstuff for the win
Clean brakes and power in silence
Purple galfer is just noise dirt and crap
I’ll definitely try those pads when these wear out! 🍻
I agree with a lot of what you’re saying. I do disagree that Maguras are the easiest to bleed. The fact that you have raise the caliper above the handle to keep the air out is a pain. My biggest gripe with Maguras is trying to keep them quiet. I found that oiling up the pistons helps but it’s an ongoing fight.
You definitely not the only person I’ve talked to who thinks that bleeding maguras is a pain. All my friends that have bled them say they are a nightmare 😂 I can get them feeling perfect in like 15 mins. Haha. I showed my buddy how to bleed them and he was like… damn that was easier then people say. For whatever reason I have just figured them out. I can’t say the same for other brakes. Codes are my literal nightmare. And most people have no problem bleeding codes. I’m just weird and I accept that 😂
How are they different from the MT5's?
From what I have heard not too different. But I’m not sure exactly what’s different
when are you gonna finish your wall?
I’m not. It’s an apartment. If I owned it I would. But. It going to waste my money.
What pads?
@@emonty62 just stock pads
@@dustinbjohnson stock=the "performance" variant they put in as standard?
@@emonty62 performance I believe
Bro! Do you still have the Yeti ARC? Is it any good?
Yo Dustin, how do ride your bike ? ST / LT ? Steep / Slack ?
ST / Steep. I tried ST / Slack and I didn’t like it as much for all around use
@@dustinbjohnson Yeah same, you lose 6mm of ground clearance and the direction feels a bit heavier for what i use to ride (technical, forest etc). I'd like to try LT with Slack, it should raise the BB and close a bit the 64,5° HT angle, so maybe a good compromise ^^
how did you keep the brake rub down? I've traid everything and my brakes still rub. the pistons don't retract enough to clear the discs
I run Magura MT7 HC3 with HOPE 220 rotors (1.8mm). Can you tell me which pads do you have? I use racing.
Personally I have Shimano XT 8120and XTR 9120 with 180 rotors. The 4 pods Shimano’s have never made me feel like I need 200 rotors. I also love Shimano because of the simplicity of bleeding and maintaining. True, they need to be bled often and the metal pads were out plus the fluid turns black. The Ice Tech rotors were out fast but stay straight never warp. I would never buy SRAM but own some Hope RX4 on my gravel bike. If I changed it would be those Magura,Hope or Hayes.
Yeah I like shimano brakes. But I just can handle the wandering bite point with the XT and XTR brakes. I need consistency
@@dustinbjohnson never had that issue with mine. I bleed and maintain with new pads and ice tech rotors whenever they need.
MT5 have more clearance than the MT7s. You moved the pistons in to run a 1.8 thickness rotor?
I haven’t heard that the mt5 has more clearance than the mt7. I believe they only work with 2.0 rotors. That’s all I use.
Wandering bite point is likely due to air in the system air stuck in the caliper, also too little fluid might be the case too experienced that, one brake was a bit mushy out of factory. 🤦 But all Shimano brakes I had leaked. So that's another possible cause.
Doing a proper bleed is key to get them to work, I found it easy. I've only tried m698, m615, m6000. But never had wandering bite point until the leaked. But haven't tried the pricier brakes.
I'm not surprised with your experience with the Sram brakes as it uses dot fluid, it requires bleeding more often, dot fluid attracts water, so if bleed screw are loose or seals worn you will have water in there for sure.
Ive heard positive feedback on all the brakes you've mentioned here Dustin... different strokes for different folks, right?
I do agree that if your brakes are not feeling right (to you) it doesn't matter what the rest of the bike is like, high end, low end, kashima this or that, solid brakes are a must!
I ride Sram on both my MTBs and not interested in others at this point. Had Shimano, looked into TRPs, bit running Code Ultimate and Guide RSCs. I found pads and rotors i like and Ive been nothing but happy with both sets.
MT7s alha e too much plastic in'em for my liking, but glad to hear you are digging them 😃
Formula Cura 4 are not worth it unless you get Rgtec levers, like I did, as the bushings on the Formula lever wear out in less than 400km.
The upgrade gave a tad lighter lever feel, it was a bit smoother too. I had to sand down the original pin.
I don't know of it's the case for the new upgrade by Formula.
I had issue with front brake leaking, I had to rebuild the caliper, the seal was deformed so pistons got stuck. Otherwise it looked fine.
I bled the front brake only once yet the o ring was shredded, rear brake I bled 5 or 6 times it did not look as bad but was worn out too le tin a bit of air. But rear brake did not need a rebuild. Getting the pistons out was hard, but eventually managed to do it.
I've ridden in - 10c, no problems but wooden feel, more sensitive, more grabby. This was with Formula mineral oil.
I've experienced the same with Shimano brakes.
Have you tried the shimano saint? For the new sram maven, let me tell you, they have tons of power. I bleed the sram code and they have little modulation and they are very close to shimano XTR. Just remember the sram maven are not compatible with shimano xt and Xtr rotors. I have not tried magura, trp, etc. I don’t need to. I feel riders get hung up on lots of brakes choices. Like a boy going to a candy store. For me, I have been using shimano xtr for 12+ years and no complaint. They work and why change. The sram code came on one bike and they are 2 years old. No complaint. Look, a good rider will adjust to bike, brakes, tires. If you are a rider (with a United stated cycling federation license) and competing I can understand been picky. When I was racing read my pinarello bike was dialed with shimano dura ace, conti tires, enve 4.5 wheels, etc. anyhow, like a said don’t get hang up on bike components unless you are a semi or pro rider.
You should try Hope brakes and rotor combo. I think you would be impressed.
Definitely will if I ever a chance to. But I love my mt7s and won’t be taking them off till they give me a reason 🍻
Try your maguras with shimano 6100 or 9100 (both non servo wave) levers. Unreal power, more modulation than full shimano.
I like my shimano’s untill a piston cracks and then you have to buy new brakes. They are not rebuildable
I had a piston crack on my old 2 piston XTs. But never happened again. I have a lot of time on shimanos. All brakes have their issues. Just have to figure out what you can live with
@@dustinbjohnson ideally companies trying to minimize waste would make replacing parts easier
cracked piston on Deore 4-piston, then cracked piston on XT 4-piston replacement. And that's why I ride Magura now.
Other brakes you probably did not try:
All of these habe bearings in the levers, use mineral oil :
These are made in Germany and are the most expensive brakes on the market:
Trickstuff Maxima, uses Bionol fluid.
Intend Trinity
Lewis LHT Ultimate mad ein China but looks good.
Radic Kaha can choose between mineral oil and dot build. Made in New Zealand.
A bike will "technically" go faster if it doesn't have brakes at all. #trustthescience #hibro 👋
The man the myth the legend right here!! ✊👑
I'm never getting Magura as no spare parts are available, have to send them to Magura in Germany for service. 🤦For me living in Norway that's probably 2 day to and 2 days from I guess judging by other packages from Germany. But still no thx. Seals can fail, wear out, pistons can get damaged and so on so being able to have the common spares, and be able to buy the other spares once you need it is a must. I mean all parts as spares.
This is why I went for Formula. But their lever sucks, so had to upgrade it but I kne this might be an issue.
Everything can fail/ wear out and get damaged, on every brand component, what are you on about 😂
@@TheMTBRider96 You clearly did not get my point. No spare parts available, so have to send it to Magura for repair. Instead of fixing it at home or when traveling somehwere else. Seals wea rout, pistons can get damaged. You can snap a lever what ever. Imagine having to go shipping your car to Germany to change tyres. Despite me living in Norway thus shipping being quick so won't tak long this is not optimal.
@@mtbboy1993 most parts are available on the German online shops
Not aware of a “service kit” to replace seals and stuff on the brakes
Although I’m 4 years in and still going strong with no issues of any kind
@@TheMTBRider96 never seen any seals anywhere. Not even in German shops. Only saw spare bolts, levers.
tried alot of brakes and Hayes for me are top dog
I have a couple buddies who really like their Hayes brakes
Hope LOL