Although there are several videos about this technique, I was inspired specifically by these two: ua-cam.com/video/BeVgByMnAqM/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/hwVvDf6FpBk/v-deo.html What you're calling "homespun philosophy", I call "application of knowledge".
"I did my best to explain this, but I wonder if there was something I forgot to say. If you have any questions, please let me know, and I'll be happy to help you understand it better." BEST TEACHING attitude EVER. Thank you for that. Even if I never use a ticking stick, it was good to hear your humble spirit this morning.
I have a set of colored pencils I bought a long time ago and was wondering what I would use them for. Thanks. If I ever get a chance to use a ticking stick it will be with my colored pencils.
You sir are a gentleman and a scholar. I make my living as a woodworker, and I must admit, have never heard of a ticking stick. You have a new subscriber my friend. Keep up the fantastic work
I've seen a couple of videos now on ticking sticks. You explained it very well. I keep thinking that it just won't work--yet it does. It's such a strange thing, but fascinating.
I never heard of a Ticking Stick until yesterday and this is the second video I saw on it. Now I want to look up more videos on this technique to learn more. I think it is cool and a fool proof (hopefully) way to get tight fits in odd shaped places. Can wait to try it. Thanks for the video.
I used to use this method to build countertops. Learned it many years ago from “Fine Woodworking” magazine. Worked very well. It was said to be used in wooden shipbuilding. Laminate countertops went out of vogue and ppl started getting solid surface and stone counters. Those guys use a digital device hooked to laptop that I call an electronic tick sticking method. It’s pretty slick and a lot easier to use for fabrication.
This is one of my few ever comments (and Subscribed) to a posted video. I am over 72 years old and must admit that I learned some very good new things today, as I have in most all of my previous 26462 days in life. Kinderhook, I enjoyed and was impressed with your UA-cam video, in its entirety. I also learned and liked some new perspectives on life. Thanks for the share of your knowledge and experience. Now I know what and when to use it. Mr Ian Simpson, some people are more wise than others, but to each his own. Know when to hold 'em.
Thank you for this very honest comment. The highest level anyone can achieve in carpentry/woodwork is “still learning”. I’ll be back online soon, and I’m pretty sure you’ll enjoy what’s coming.
I have done this before by knocking in panel pins to suspend a piece of ply in position, then gluing strips of thin card to mark the extremities of the space. This template was then used to dimension the finished shelf. The results were very good.
Great video. Just learned about the tick stick, looked it up & your video popped up among many. Very informative brother. Turned out beautiful man. Thank you.
I am 70 years old and was blown away by this. It is hard to think back on how hard most of my projects were over the years without this knowledge. Is there a reason for the extra curves on the Ticking Stick I subbed and rang that bell.
Glad to pass this along. Here lately I’m finding a lot of tricks and techniques I wish I had known about long ago as well. The curves are just a little extra for appearance. The notch is really all you need for reference.
Dude! Great video! I had been tasked with repairing a "Tree" in our nature center that someone half ripped apart before they left, without leaving any idea of what their plan was. There wasn't a single square corner or straight line to be found anywhere on what was left. I was able to create a couple of enclosures for un-releasable birds in the space after much stress and, frankly, poor attempts with home made compass's. I wish I had seen this video before that job! Now, I'm looking forward to the next impossible job they have for me. Cudo's to you for crediting Christopher Schwarz, but when I tell the young man that is working with me about ticking sticks I will be crediting Kinderhook Woodcraft. Paying it forward.
I'd probably have done most of it with a jigsaw, unless I had a bandsaw. Either way, I'd have done the (straight) front with a table saw or chop saw. I am impressed when somebody can use a reciprocating saw for finish carpentry, though.
Steve Pseudonym I’ve been at this a long time, and been wielding this particular saw for a decade at least. It’s actually saw #2, because I wore the first one out. That’s how much I use it. This job is 100% jigsaw appropriate in my opinion, and that would be my tool of choice for this. Unfortunately I do not have one :( I made the front edges straight with my circular saw.
Also, blade up pulls down on the edge, making the top surface less likely to shatter and chip out. But, Yeah, a jig/ band saw would help with leaving more of a square edge.
@@mikemeara I think that saw is a bit like a grinder, oscillating tool, and a bunch of other things. You can live without it for years, but once you have it you find lots of things that it's good for.
For you the templates were almost identical going up the wall, but often (especially if divider walls have been added after a room has been built as is often the case with in-built cupboards) walls are not square, and as a result the shelf sizes will differ slightly as you go. I made a 'box' type shelf unit for above a washing machine (basically a four-sided prefab case) with the expectation that I could just slide it in and put a few gyprock anchor screws in the sides to the wall. It turned out that the walls were so far out of square that they were one inch closer at the near side than the back of the recess and the box I had screwed together had to be taken apart and awkwardly re-assembled in-situ regardless. Luckily I had measured and cut the actual pieces correctly, not assumed it to be a square box, otherwise it would not have fit properly at all!
Indeed. At least two of those shelves were identical. I still went through the process because I wanted them all as tight as possible. I think there’s generally an assumption that walls are flat and corners are square. This is rarely the case because in the field, speed is more important than quality. I’m glad to know you checked your measurements first. I bet your project came out great!
Nicely done sir, the whole process of what you did was great! Tick sticking is pretty much a lost technique and I’m glad you shed some light on it! Truth be told, I still have one in my carpenters tool box, along with a crosscut, and a rip hand saw. I also carry my Stanley Yankee screwdriver and my low angle hand plane 😉
A kindred soul 🪚 I always carried my block plane, and sometimes someone would ask why. I found it easier to tune outside mitres on corners that aren’t square. Handwork is often more versatile, particularly in the field.
I 'liked' from the beginning with the quote on applied knowledge. subscribed with notifications as soon as you mentioned Christopher Schwarz. I'll watch the rest soon, but I already know you are legit. Thanks for your effort posting this stuff. take care
I saw another video on the ticking stick but I forgot what it is all about. Thanks for bringing it back to me.👍👍 Have a great day and stay safe. And, yes, how did you mount the shelves?🙂🙂
In 20 odd years of woodworking I have never come across this method for scribing! It's brilliant and I will definitely be having a go and maybe do my own video on it but I will be sure to give your video credit and provide a link if that's ok with you!? Thanks
Great explanation of the use of the Ticking Stick! As an old shipwright (now retired) I’ve used variations of them for years. I didn’t see any cleats under the shelves. May I ask how you installed the shelves to the wall? I enjoy your channel and just subscribed. Thanks, Rolf
Hi Mike. Thanks for the informative video. This measuring method seems very simple but effective. A question I have is how did you attach the shelves to the wall?
Not a bad idea, another method I like to use is templating strips glued together and placed along the wall surface with additional triangular tabs glued on the edge of the strips to indicate any curves in the wall.
Wonderful video, even more wonderful teaching style and attitude! I have no questions about the ticking stick, but may I ask what the hand-held saw is called? And what was its make and model? Thank you!
that is really cool way !!! this guy is a brilliant mind i never think something like that in my life !!! and is sooooo useful thanks for sharing bro !!!
Peter Edwards Mick Enzie answered perfectly. Plywood is just layers of wood glued together. That means it’s layers of glue as well. Hardened glue will dull plane blades fast.
Martin Heath I did. I was trying to focus on the method. This was my most asked question, btw. I used the Kreg Jig to make pocket holes and fastened the shelves directly to the studs with 2 1/2” decking screws.
I'm guna hafta watch this a bunch o' times. Where do you get the ticking stick? If you make it, do you have to make a new one for various projects? Can it be used in other applications? Thanks! Enjoyed the video.
I had to watch a couple of videos on this to fully understand it myself. I made mine, and I don’t know of anyone selling them. I don’t see why you couldn’t use it for other projects. I’ve linked a couple videos in a few other comments for ppl wanting more: ua-cam.com/video/BeVgByMnAqM/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/hwVvDf6FpBk/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/Cd2LY857oTY/v-deo.html
J. R, Yes to pocket holes, no to adhesive. I used the Kreg Jig and 2 1/2” screws. I didn’t think adhesive was necessary. I did caulk a very fine bead around the edges though, to cover any gaps. There were a few.
Nice video, pretty cool method... I don't know anything about hand planes though, why would people be horrified by what you did? I'm guessing using it on the end grain can mess up the blade and dulls it real bad?
I see so much wrong, but I digress. Any knowledge is good knowledge. I can only add that when using the ticking stick to make the template, the "notch" on the stick is used to give the user a reference to the direction of where to point the stick when lining it up for tracing the tick points. Also, this is slightly important, don't put your face so close to a reciprocating saw blade!;(
Kinderhook Woodcraft thanks mike.. we're going to be repainting and redoing our kitchen in the upcoming months so if I camt remember how ill definitely be giving you a shout👍🍻
Hey mike I do replacement windows sometimes and we trim the outside in aluminum. Some houses have aggressive cobblestone that I need to cut my aluminum tight to. If I made a lot of reference points do you think a stick would work?
Just a suggestion, grab a box of colored pencils and your ticking stick. Less confusion than just using a standard black pencil when you have multiple ticks to trace.
@@mikemeara I noticed after posting my comment that there is a similar comment further down the feed. Don't want anyone to think I just stole someone else's idea.
Here are a few more vids on the subject. Hope this helps: ua-cam.com/video/BeVgByMnAqM/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/hwVvDf6FpBk/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/Cd2LY857oTY/v-deo.html
'still have no idea how the stick works' The 'board' you draw the outlines of the stick on are simply a relative location reference. When you put the stick back in that outline, the tip has to be basically exactly where it was relative to the board. Use the board and stick outlines to recreate all the points on another board and they have to be very close to perfect the stick can't fit those outlines any other way. The tip of the stick is a remote probe. The exact outline of the handle captures the position of that probe onto the board you draw the handle outline on, and there is only one relationship between the handle and the stick tip. This is a form of data capture, the point data is stored as stick handle outlines drawn on the board. It's no different than if you put 'X and Y numbers' on the board and constructed a stick so it read out X and Y numbers to plot it out instead of just drawing the handle outline.
@@mikemeara Yep actually I worked that out on the fly while writing the explanation, part of why I tend to explain things quite often. It makes me abstract the idea better for myself as well, then it's more useful and easier to apply to other subjects later. Also I just ran into this video ua-cam.com/video/VOXDdNT6cbw/v-deo.html Instead of one stick and outlining, this uses the same idea with multiple sticks and gluing them into place for reference. So it's even more direct and easy to understand for anyone new to the idea.. But the drawn outline version is much better for making templates into limited access areas.
Thank you for sharing your experience with me. Also, the use of the ticking stick and how you traced the patter and transferred it to the actual board you were actually going to use. It was easy to under stand and simple to use I should know cause I'm simple. Waahat did I really just say that? LOL
Why not simply use a piece of cardboard, one slightly smaller than the desired size and shape, then use a compass to "scribe" a pencil line on the cardboard, transfer the piece of cardboard to the piece of luan, then use the compass to "scribe" a line. Seems faster and just as accurate.
Make the shelf an inch too wide and half an inch too long. Put it in at an angle and scribe the lowest side taking off 1/4". Measure the width of the opening at the back (lets say it's 14"), and mark the shelf along the back edge 14" from the edge you just cut, so the back edge of the shelf will be the correct width if cut to that mark. (But don't cut it). Put the shelf back in at an angle with the un cut side lowest and set your scribe compass to the mark you have made at the back, roughly the 3/4" you have left. Scribe and cut the second side. Both sides now fit, scribe the back edge and trim enough (1/2") to leave the front edge at desired position.
Close! With the curve visible on each side (the one he mentions - from mud build up at the corners), you MUST scribe the back first or your side scribes will NOT be accurate. to reiterate: DO NOT attempt to scribe the sides and THEN do the back. it will not work. Apart from my modification of your explanation, I gave a like as I use a similar procedure (but am generally installing onto cleats also.)
Dion Jones Plywood has lots of glue in it. Planing hardened glue will wear out the edge of your iron pretty fast. I knew some people were going to cringe when they saw me do this. It’s no big deal, except it means more sharpening.
Ramon Arroyo I’m completely unable to make videos at the moment. With a little luck I’ll be back at it next year. If it helps, I used the Kreg Jig to make pocket holes and then fastened the shelves to the studs with 2 1/2” decking screws.
Sry. For some reason I’m not getting notifications for comments. The cuts I’m making with that saw aren’t straight. House framing is almost never square and plumb. If I had cut straight, I would have had gaps too big for caulk.
Hi Mike, Thanks for this video. I'm rebuilding and Airstream, so yeah, a few curves, heh, heh. I'm not super experienced and I'm afraid you lost me when you were scribbling the luan to use with your cardboard template. If possible can you provide me with some additional information on this part. Thanks
As for scribing with the luan: It looks as if the template he made out of the large piece of cardboard fit well enough for the higher shelves but was missing a bit of space next to the short divider wall. I think he just used the luan to fill in the gap the cardboard was missing. I hope that makes sense. I'm planning a bus conversion, so that's what brought me here, too. Good luck with your Airstream--so many curves! :)
@@xmchillin I think the luan is used in a similar way to the ticking stick. So the template is put in place with the luan on top. The luan is pushed against the wall and the bottom half marked (the bit not against the wall). So when the template is placed on the next piece of wood - you line the luan on top of the template with the bottom lining up with the outline you drew. That way the template + the overlap from the luan = the size / shape of the wood needed.
I used the Kreg Jig to make pocket holes and screwed into the studs. Sry for the delay. Idk why UA-cam doesn’t give me notifications on comments anymore.
Just run 4 strips of 1/4 inch plywood along the walls and across the front creating a perimeter ..Clamp them in the corners... You're done in 45 seconds..
That saw seemed interesting, I used to cut postform tops to fit with a jigsaw upside down but control is never so great, this saw might be a better option. what is that?
check out the Collins Coping Foot attachment to replace the baseplate or foot of your jigsaw if you need more control. great for many applications - including, and especially, the intended one; coping crown moulding
I come here to learn techniques, not for homespun philosophy......
Although there are several videos about this technique, I was inspired specifically by these two:
ua-cam.com/video/BeVgByMnAqM/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/hwVvDf6FpBk/v-deo.html
What you're calling "homespun philosophy", I call "application of knowledge".
Then don't watch his videos, he can post whatever he wants.......
Ian, that is just plain rude. Shame on you.
Ok, so you don't like his philosophy. I like positive thinking. I like the video and I'm positive you're a SMUCK!
Raised on sour milk and showing every drop of it.
"I did my best to explain this, but I wonder if there was something I forgot to say. If you have any questions, please let me know, and I'll be happy to help you understand it better." BEST TEACHING attitude EVER. Thank you for that. Even if I never use a ticking stick, it was good to hear your humble spirit this morning.
How did you attach the shelves to the walls?
Use colored pencils to generate more outlines. Even overlapping you can distinguish the colors as separate shapes.
I have a set of colored pencils I bought a long time ago and was wondering what I would use them for. Thanks. If I ever get a chance to use a ticking stick it will be with my colored pencils.
I'm 65 years old and I'm not too proud to say that I learnt something today. Thank you for teaching this old dog a new trick :)
Phil Cooke My pleasure! I’m only 15 years your junior, but I hope when I get there I’m as still as willing to learn new things as you are.
Me too. 61 and learnt from this video.
Should always be proud to learn new things
Me too, and I hope I'll remember the tik-stik if I ever need to do that
Likewise, I learned something new today, that's always a bonus. 10th November 2022 I will be 69.
You sir are a gentleman and a scholar. I make my living as a woodworker, and I must admit, have never heard of a ticking stick. You have a new subscriber my friend. Keep up the fantastic work
Jestin Loveday Thank you! Just goes to show we’re all learning from each other, all the time.
The community that learns together, grows together.
Thanks for showing a project that you used the ticking stick. I first learned of the technique from Leah of See Jane Drill. I think it is brilliant!
I’m going to have to thank her. She sent a lot of traffic my way.
Same here.
Me too
I've seen a couple of videos now on ticking sticks. You explained it very well. I keep thinking that it just won't work--yet it does. It's such a strange thing, but fascinating.
I never heard of a Ticking Stick until yesterday and this is the second video I saw on it. Now I want to look up more videos on this technique to learn more. I think it is cool and a fool proof (hopefully) way to get tight fits in odd shaped places. Can wait to try it. Thanks for the video.
Halscamp Look at my response to the pinned comment. There’s a couple links to other vids on this subject.
@@mikemeara
Wow , Thanks
I used to use this method to build countertops. Learned it many years ago from “Fine Woodworking” magazine. Worked very well. It was said to be used in wooden shipbuilding. Laminate countertops went out of vogue and ppl started getting solid surface and stone counters. Those guys use a digital device hooked to laptop that I call an electronic tick sticking method. It’s pretty slick and a lot easier to use for fabrication.
I used this technique when building a deck around my above ground pool. There were a lot of odd areas. I was amazed at the accuracy.
Agreed. In my project, I honestly had some doubt. The results were nearly flawless, and the shelves still look like they grew there.
This is one of my few ever comments (and Subscribed) to a posted video. I am over 72 years old and must admit that I learned some very good new things today, as I have in most all of my previous 26462 days in life. Kinderhook, I enjoyed and was impressed with your UA-cam video, in its entirety. I also learned and liked some new perspectives on life. Thanks for the share of your knowledge and experience. Now I know what and when to use it. Mr Ian Simpson, some people are more wise than others, but to each his own. Know when to hold 'em.
Thank you for this very honest comment. The highest level anyone can achieve in carpentry/woodwork is “still learning”. I’ll be back online soon, and I’m pretty sure you’ll enjoy what’s coming.
I wish I had known this when I installed new stair steps enclosed by drywall on each side. Well done.
Thanks! It may still come in useful someday.
Really appreciate your attitude to teaching. Thank you for sharing with us today.
I have done this before by knocking in panel pins to suspend a piece of ply in position, then gluing strips of thin card to mark the extremities of the space. This template was then used to dimension the finished shelf.
The results were very good.
That’s a good idea too.
Great video. Just learned about the tick stick, looked it up & your video popped up among many. Very informative brother. Turned out beautiful man. Thank you.
Thank you for the nice comment.
I am 70 years old and was blown away by this. It is hard to think back on how hard most of my projects were over the years without this knowledge. Is there a reason for the extra curves on the Ticking Stick I subbed and rang that bell.
Glad to pass this along. Here lately I’m finding a lot of tricks and techniques I wish I had known about long ago as well.
The curves are just a little extra for appearance. The notch is really all you need for reference.
@@mikemeara Thank you.
Gardener Mike in San Antonio You bet :)
Dude! Great video! I had been tasked with repairing a "Tree" in our nature center that someone half ripped apart before they left, without leaving any idea of what their plan was. There wasn't a single square corner or straight line to be found anywhere on what was left. I was able to create a couple of enclosures for un-releasable birds in the space after much stress and, frankly, poor attempts with home made compass's. I wish I had seen this video before that job! Now, I'm looking forward to the next impossible job they have for me.
Cudo's to you for crediting Christopher Schwarz, but when I tell the young man that is working with me about ticking sticks I will be crediting Kinderhook Woodcraft. Paying it forward.
Thank you :) I hope you get a chance to try this out and if you do, I’d love to hear about it.
Brilliant use of the saw with blade up. Making accuracy easier to accomplish, hadn t thought of that !
Woodie Thompspn It’s kind of a chore tho. You have to apply a lot of upward pressure and after a few cuts, you’ll feel it.
I'd probably have done most of it with a jigsaw, unless I had a bandsaw. Either way, I'd have done the (straight) front with a table saw or chop saw. I am impressed when somebody can use a reciprocating saw for finish carpentry, though.
Steve Pseudonym I’ve been at this a long time, and been wielding this particular saw for a decade at least. It’s actually saw #2, because I wore the first one out. That’s how much I use it.
This job is 100% jigsaw appropriate in my opinion, and that would be my tool of choice for this. Unfortunately I do not have one :(
I made the front edges straight with my circular saw.
Also, blade up pulls down on the edge, making the top surface less likely to shatter and chip out. But, Yeah, a jig/ band saw would help with leaving more of a square edge.
@@mikemeara I think that saw is a bit like a grinder, oscillating tool, and a bunch of other things. You can live without it for years, but once you have it you find lots of things that it's good for.
Interesting technique. I'll have to remember this; it's sure to come in handy some day.
Make sure you have plenty of cardboard. That's really why I only used it for one of the shelves ;)
Man that is one helluva trick! Very cool thanks for sharing!
Glad you liked it :)
Hi,thanks for the other video,it's starting to sink in now ,and why the stick is shaped. Thanks again ,Brian ,
For you the templates were almost identical going up the wall, but often (especially if divider walls have been added after a room has been built as is often the case with in-built cupboards) walls are not square, and as a result the shelf sizes will differ slightly as you go.
I made a 'box' type shelf unit for above a washing machine (basically a four-sided prefab case) with the expectation that I could just slide it in and put a few gyprock anchor screws in the sides to the wall. It turned out that the walls were so far out of square that they were one inch closer at the near side than the back of the recess and the box I had screwed together had to be taken apart and awkwardly re-assembled in-situ regardless. Luckily I had measured and cut the actual pieces correctly, not assumed it to be a square box, otherwise it would not have fit properly at all!
Indeed. At least two of those shelves were identical. I still went through the process because I wanted them all as tight as possible.
I think there’s generally an assumption that walls are flat and corners are square. This is rarely the case because in the field, speed is more important than quality.
I’m glad to know you checked your measurements first. I bet your project came out great!
Nicely done sir, the whole process of what you did was great! Tick sticking is pretty much a lost technique and I’m glad you shed some light on it! Truth be told, I still have one in my carpenters tool box, along with a crosscut, and a rip hand saw. I also carry my Stanley Yankee screwdriver and my low angle hand plane 😉
A kindred soul 🪚 I always carried my block plane, and sometimes someone would ask why. I found it easier to tune outside mitres on corners that aren’t square. Handwork is often more versatile, particularly in the field.
Nice job Mike. Very cool video. Thank you for sharing...shared.
Thanks Terry!
Mike that was a great video in so many ways dude!! High five on the edit, not to mention the killer tips!!
Thanks my friend!
Excellent informative video Mike, you taught me something new today!!Thanks!
Thank you Barry! I'm glad you liked it.
I 'liked' from the beginning with the quote on applied knowledge. subscribed with notifications as soon as you mentioned Christopher Schwarz. I'll watch the rest soon, but I already know you are legit. Thanks for your effort posting this stuff. take care
I’d go with semi-legit, but thank you!
Nice job , they are handy and people often say when they see it in my bag,what's that stick used for.
A good conversation starter, that’s for sure. Plus, I could stir a gallon of paint with mine if I needed to.
Wow.... I have never seen this done and it looks amazing! Thank you so much for passing down the information. Subscribed
I’m glad you enjoyed! I’ll be back to making videos in the spring.
Great vid and tips , thank you for sharing.
I saw another video on the ticking stick but I forgot what it is all about. Thanks for bringing it back to me.👍👍 Have a great day and stay safe. And, yes, how did you mount the shelves?🙂🙂
Great work pal
Thanks!
Every time I wipe my hand a crossed a piece of plywood that I have cut I end up with the splinter or four. Thank you for the knowledge.
You bet
In 20 odd years of woodworking I have never come across this method for scribing! It's brilliant and I will definitely be having a go and maybe do my own video on it but I will be sure to give your video credit and provide a link if that's ok with you!? Thanks
Great explanation of the use of the Ticking Stick! As an old shipwright (now retired) I’ve used variations of them for years.
I didn’t see any cleats under the shelves. May I ask how you installed the shelves to the wall?
I enjoy your channel and just subscribed.
Thanks, Rolf
Very nicely done. Showing my ignorance, how are the shelves supported against the wall?
Charles Elkins You’re not the first to ask. I should have mentioned in the vid, smh. Pocket holes :) I used 2 1/2” deck screws into the studs.
using a utility knife to prevent splintering is genius !
Sometimes blue painter’s tape can work too.
@@mikemeara yeah, I am keen to that trick.
Excellent video.
Tubemonks Thank you
Hi Mike. Thanks for the informative video. This measuring method seems very simple but effective. A question I have is how did you attach the shelves to the wall?
I used the Kreg Jig to make pocket holes on the bottom of the shelves, then screwed directly into the studs with 2 1/2” screws.
Not a bad idea, another method I like to use is templating strips glued together and placed along the wall surface with additional triangular tabs glued on the edge of the strips to indicate any curves in the wall.
I’m curios about this, but having a hard time imagining it. Do you have a link?
Wonderful video, even more wonderful teaching style and attitude! I have no questions about the ticking stick, but may I ask what the hand-held saw is called? And what was its make and model? Thank you!
Thank you! The saw is a Hackzall made by Milwaukee. Mine is older, but the newer one is M18 18 volt.
@@mikemeara Thank you so much!
that is really cool way !!! this guy is a brilliant mind i never think something like that in my life !!! and is sooooo useful thanks for sharing bro !!!
Thank you Kostas!
I use the same method, but with a 6 inch steel ruler. Trace one end to use as a reference.
Nice
This is awesome Mike, thanks for sharing. Thumbs up.
You bet! Thanks for the nice comment.
I heard about the ticking stick, now I know how to use it =)
How did you mount those floating shelves? I liked how you got the pattern
Thank you. Would you explain what was wrong with using the plane in the manner you did ? I’m new to all of this.
Hand planes and plywood glue = no bueno. Blades get beat up in a hurry planing plywood.
Peter Edwards Mick Enzie answered perfectly. Plywood is just layers of wood glued together. That means it’s layers of glue as well. Hardened glue will dull plane blades fast.
I use a big feather for a tickling stick works great !!!
Hmmm... Maybe I’ll attempt this method in my next video.
I use the whole chicken!
I am building a new wood countertop that is u-shaped with 45 degree angled inside corners. Do you use a separate template for each side of the u ?
Beautiful!
p.s. You forgot to say how the shelves are fixed so they stay up.
Martin Heath I did. I was trying to focus on the method. This was my most asked question, btw.
I used the Kreg Jig to make pocket holes and fastened the shelves directly to the studs with 2 1/2” decking screws.
@@mikemeara Great Thanks!
“Knowledge is power Mr Watts, knowledge is power” ...Reg Holdsworth.
Indeed.
Good old Curley Watts.
ua-cam.com/video/72QkcRigf1Y/v-deo.html
I'm guna hafta watch this a bunch o' times. Where do you get the ticking stick? If you make it, do you have to make a new one for various projects? Can it be used in other applications? Thanks! Enjoyed the video.
I had to watch a couple of videos on this to fully understand it myself. I made mine, and I don’t know of anyone selling them. I don’t see why you couldn’t use it for other projects.
I’ve linked a couple videos in a few other comments for ppl wanting more:
ua-cam.com/video/BeVgByMnAqM/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/hwVvDf6FpBk/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/Cd2LY857oTY/v-deo.html
You have to make your chicken stick to the size of your project if you have multiple projects about the same size then you can use the same Stick
Great work. How did you attach the shelves to the wall?
I used the Kreg Jig to make pocket holes and fastened the shelves to the studs with 2 1/2” decking screws.
EXCELLENT!
THANKS FOR INFO.
QUESTION:
HOW ARE THE SHELVES ATTACHED?
POCKET HOLES INTO STUDS?
ADHESIVE?
THANKS!
J. R, Yes to pocket holes, no to adhesive. I used the Kreg Jig and 2 1/2” screws. I didn’t think adhesive was necessary. I did caulk a very fine bead around the edges though, to cover any gaps. There were a few.
@@mikemeara
THANK YOU, BROTHER!
CHEERS!
Uhhhh....nice video. the explanation was simple enough and I learnt something new Today!!!!
I like to use luan and a small scribing block. It's the same principle. I hope your client has a good idea of how conscientious you are. Thanks!
It was my daughter. She knows ;)
I saw it as an opportunity to try this method. The shelves still look great. Thank you for your kind comment.
Nice video, pretty cool method... I don't know anything about hand planes though, why would people be horrified by what you did? I'm guessing using it on the end grain can mess up the blade and dulls it real bad?
Worse than end grain. There’s a lot of glue in plywood, and hardened glue will dull your edge in a hurry.
This is a ancient art of transferring measurement. Spiling sticks used by boat builders.
Yes. Here is one of the videos that I learned this from: ua-cam.com/video/BeVgByMnAqM/v-deo.html
Will this work for making back's for picture frames????
Sure, why not?
I see so much wrong, but I digress. Any knowledge is good knowledge.
I can only add that when using the ticking stick to make the template, the "notch" on the stick is used to give the user a reference to the direction of where to point the stick when lining it up for tracing the tick points.
Also, this is slightly important, don't put your face so close to a reciprocating saw blade!;(
xr500t I promise if I ever do this again I will use a jigsaw instead ;)
good stuff Mike ! never heard of a ticking stick b4 this so this is new to me.which is cool.im gonna give it a go next time im installing shelves.🍻
If you do, let me know how it goes.
Kinderhook Woodcraft will do brother..ill prolly ned help too.hha!
I'll certainly help if I can :)
Kinderhook Woodcraft thanks mike.. we're going to be repainting and redoing our kitchen in the upcoming months so if I camt remember how ill definitely be giving you a shout👍🍻
Good video. Thanks.
Hey mike I do replacement windows sometimes and we trim the outside in aluminum. Some houses have aggressive cobblestone that I need to cut my aluminum tight to. If I made a lot of reference points do you think a stick would work?
Yes, I think so. However, another method might be easier and/or more convenient. Search for “contour scribe” and use your judgement. Good luck!
Very cool technique!!!👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks Bob :)
Brilliant to watch.. very helpful too..
Wow thanks! I’m happy you enjoyed it.
Great video, i learned a new trick
Thanks, glad you liked it!
Just a suggestion, grab a box of colored pencils and your ticking stick. Less confusion than just using a standard black pencil when you have multiple ticks to trace.
Thomas Russell That’s a good suggestion. Also, any reason to grab colored pencils is a good reason!
@@mikemeara I noticed after posting my comment that there is a similar comment further down the feed. Don't want anyone to think I just stole someone else's idea.
Thomas Russell Probably the reason more than one person thought this was a good idea is because it IS a good idea.
Watched this several times,still have no idea how the stick works, perhaps it will come to me soon if I keep watching.
Thanks,
Here are a few more vids on the subject. Hope this helps:
ua-cam.com/video/BeVgByMnAqM/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/hwVvDf6FpBk/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/Cd2LY857oTY/v-deo.html
'still have no idea how the stick works' The 'board' you draw the outlines of the stick on are simply a relative location reference. When you put the stick back in that outline, the tip has to be basically exactly where it was relative to the board. Use the board and stick outlines to recreate all the points on another board and they have to be very close to perfect the stick can't fit those outlines any other way.
The tip of the stick is a remote probe. The exact outline of the handle captures the position of that probe onto the board you draw the handle outline on, and there is only one relationship between the handle and the stick tip. This is a form of data capture, the point data is stored as stick handle outlines drawn on the board. It's no different than if you put 'X and Y numbers' on the board and constructed a stick so it read out X and Y numbers to plot it out instead of just drawing the handle outline.
ModelLights This is an excellent explanation.
@@mikemeara Yep actually I worked that out on the fly while writing the explanation, part of why I tend to explain things quite often. It makes me abstract the idea better for myself as well, then it's more useful and easier to apply to other subjects later.
Also I just ran into this video ua-cam.com/video/VOXDdNT6cbw/v-deo.html
Instead of one stick and outlining, this uses the same idea with multiple sticks and gluing them into place for reference. So it's even more direct and easy to understand for anyone new to the idea.. But the drawn outline version is much better for making templates into limited access areas.
Love the intro!
Thanks! I appreciate that. I got roasted a little for the cringe factor.
that is pretty neat - thanks for sharing
Definitely check out the Popular Woodworking vid on this. It'll give you a different perspective.
Thank you for sharing your experience with me. Also, the use of the ticking stick and how you traced the patter and transferred it to the actual board you were actually going to use. It was easy to under stand and simple to use I should know cause I'm simple. Waahat did I really just say that? LOL
I’m pretty simple too, my friend. Simple is good :)
Great video!
Why not simply use a piece of cardboard, one slightly smaller than the desired size and shape, then use a compass to "scribe" a pencil line on the cardboard, transfer the piece of cardboard to the piece of luan, then use the compass to "scribe" a line.
Seems faster and just as accurate.
1rewd1 Certainly a good idea. There are several valid ways to do this. I just wanted to explore this one and share my experience.
cool stuff! wondering how did you attach the shelves to the wall though??
I used the Kreg Jig to make pocket holes and fastened the shelves to the studs with 2 1/2” deck screws.
That was very cool
Thanks!
Thanks for the vid.
I’m happy you liked it!
Make the shelf an inch too wide and half an inch too long. Put it in at an angle and scribe the lowest side taking off 1/4". Measure the width of the opening at the back (lets say it's 14"), and mark the shelf along the back edge 14" from the edge you just cut, so the back edge of the shelf will be the correct width if cut to that mark. (But don't cut it).
Put the shelf back in at an angle with the un cut side lowest and set your scribe compass to the mark you have made at the back, roughly the 3/4" you have left. Scribe and cut the second side.
Both sides now fit, scribe the back edge and trim enough (1/2") to leave the front edge at desired position.
Close!
With the curve visible on each side (the one he mentions - from mud build up at the corners), you MUST scribe the back first or your side scribes will NOT be accurate. to reiterate: DO NOT attempt to scribe the sides and THEN do the back. it will not work.
Apart from my modification of your explanation, I gave a like as I use a similar procedure (but am generally installing onto cleats also.)
very clear, thank you
How did you fasten the shelves to the wall? I did not see a cleat on the underside
Pocket hole screws. I wanted a super clean look with no visible support. I used the Kreg Jig and fastened them to the studs with 2 1/2" screws.
I couldn't tell what the floating shelves are floating on. Any hints anyone?
Thank you.
You bet!
so whats the problem with using the wood planes like you did?
Dion Jones Plywood has lots of glue in it. Planing hardened glue will wear out the edge of your iron pretty fast. I knew some people were going to cringe when they saw me do this. It’s no big deal, except it means more sharpening.
Awesome - Thank You!
What holds the shelves in place? First I saw spacers. Then they were gone.
He used pocket screws.
Thanks for the video!
Sambulate Thanks for watching it 👊
Idk about using a sawzall for fine work. Jigsaw.. Bandsaw... But good info thanks.
Great vid. Thanks for sharing. I just subscribed.
nicely done!!
Thanks Mitch!
Question: How are the shelves held in place?
Don Geiger I used the Kreg Jig to make pocket holes on the bottom, and then screwed them into the studs with 2 1/2” screws.
I want to see how you put up the floating shelves in. Do a floating shelves DIY video please if you can.
Ramon Arroyo I’m completely unable to make videos at the moment. With a little luck I’ll be back at it next year.
If it helps, I used the Kreg Jig to make pocket holes and then fastened the shelves to the studs with 2 1/2” decking screws.
Why would you use a recip saw when you are cutting a straight line?
Sry. For some reason I’m not getting notifications for comments.
The cuts I’m making with that saw aren’t straight. House framing is almost never square and plumb. If I had cut straight, I would have had gaps too big for caulk.
Hi Mike, Thanks for this video. I'm rebuilding and Airstream, so yeah, a few curves, heh, heh. I'm not super experienced and I'm afraid you lost me when you were scribbling the luan to use with your cardboard template. If possible can you provide me with some additional information on this part. Thanks
As for scribing with the luan: It looks as if the template he made out of the large piece of cardboard fit well enough for the higher shelves but was missing a bit of space next to the short divider wall. I think he just used the luan to fill in the gap the cardboard was missing. I hope that makes sense.
I'm planning a bus conversion, so that's what brought me here, too. Good luck with your Airstream--so many curves! :)
Agree, Pete. Watched that segment 3-4 times, the luan totally went over my head.
@@xmchillin I think the luan is used in a similar way to the ticking stick. So the template is put in place with the luan on top. The luan is pushed against the wall and the bottom half marked (the bit not against the wall). So when the template is placed on the next piece of wood - you line the luan on top of the template with the bottom lining up with the outline you drew. That way the template + the overlap from the luan = the size / shape of the wood needed.
what's holding the shelves up
I used the Kreg Jig to make pocket holes and screwed into the studs.
Sry for the delay. Idk why UA-cam doesn’t give me notifications on comments anymore.
Great Vid... Thanks
Probably the slowest way but it's pretty cool.
Door skin cut at one end with a 45' angle and some hot glue does the same thing
what's the lenght on a tick sticking ? please
You can make it whatever size you like or need depending on the task. The one shown is 12” x 1 1/2” and made from 1/4” luan.
@@mikemeara thank you ...
How did you mount it on wall?
I used the Kreg Jig to make pocket holes on the underside of the shelves and fastened them directly to the studs using 2 1/2” screws.
Just run 4 strips of 1/4 inch plywood along the walls and across the front creating a perimeter ..Clamp them in the corners... You're done in 45 seconds..
That saw seemed interesting, I used to cut postform tops to fit with a jigsaw upside down but control is never so great, this saw might be a better option. what is that?
Google “Milwaukee Hackzall”. I’ve been using this kind of saw for a decade or better. You’ll love it if you get one!
check out the Collins Coping Foot attachment to replace the baseplate or foot of your jigsaw if you need more control. great for many applications - including, and especially, the intended one; coping crown moulding