I really like how you include explanations of thing like parallax with graphics to enforce the idea visually. That is one of the best teaching methods I know. I spent 40+ years as an electronics engineer, but my BS degree is in Technical Education. That technique is one of the tools I learned about in my degree program. I hadn't even thought about it for many years until I saw this video. Kudos!
Nick what a great tip, as an engineer when I use to put lead to vellum I was told to rotate the pencil and I do that for my projects, when I would cut the wood I would be short by a 1/32 to a 1/64th I thought it was my saw or tape measure, went out and tried your tip and THANK YOU I was dead on, now I know why I have your books lol Thank you Nick
I can never watch _part_ of one of your videos. Not every single one of them always applies directly to my small projects, but no matter my initial intentions when clicking the video I watch them beginning to end 100% of the time. Better yet, I learn something valuable each and every time as well.
I've seen others talk about marking with a knife, but they always said to use a marking knife. I was so glad to see you show the use of a utility knife too! At worst, you'll be off by half the thickness of the blade, which is almost never a problem
I took a fine woodworking class last year and we were shown marking out with cheap folding utility knives as well as proper marking knives. The tutor used the utility knife almost exclusively including to mark out dovetails. There was no discernable difference in accuracy as long as you angle the utility knife to ensure the cutting edge is tight against the ruler.
This is brilliant. Obviously I need to go watch to the future and watch your older videos mate. That comment about memory is so true, at least in my case. I couldn't tell you what I had for breakfast this morning. I had never ever thought of slipping a blade into the recess of a mark that you can feel. I'm going to give that a try. Cheers Nick. You are, as we say here in Oz, a legend.
Excellent video and its nice to see these skills and methods kept alive. I like to attach a small piece of flat quarter or half inch plywood at the beginning of my story sticks. This way I have a visual and physical reference point - learnt this in a ‘teachable moment’.
I've never heard anyone besides my dad say "Good enough for government work." Instant credibility! Wish I'd seen this video sooner. I'm halfway through making crude kitchen cabinets.
When I was in the USAF, we'd jokingly say that good enough for government work consisted of: Measuring it with a micrometer. Marking it with a crayon. Cutting it with an axe.
I’ve been woodworking for over 45 years. I still learn every day (okay, perhaps not every day; let’s say every few days). Sometimes it’s stuff I knew but left behind in favour of a bad technique; occasionally, it’s stuff I never knew. For all those who are realities newbies (which, at my age, must be over 90% of the viewers), this channel is one of those “must watch even though I think I know it all”. Very well presented with a total absence of condescension, it delivers its message every time. The saying used to be; carpenters use a carpenters pencil; a joiner uses a pencil and a cabinet maker uses a knife. Well, those lines are blurred but it’s a good saying to have in your mind when you reach for a pencil when you should be using a knife. Sometimes absolute accuracy (which I think of as +/- 0.1mm or around 5 thousand of an inch) just isn’t necessary. If you are using solid timber, the piece is likely to move much more than that as it reacts to humidity. However, it’s never a bad thing to be more accurate than you need; better than being less accurate than you need. The score line left by the knife is a superb guide if you need to chisel at that point. Two issues with a knife: - you can’t erase a scored line as you can a pencil line. Try and work on the reverse side of the piece as scored limes don’t tend to matter there or, as I do, use a 0.5mm lead in a mechanical pencil. - if you are sawing at the scored line, you would normally cut just past the line on the waste side, and shoot the timber back to where you want it to be. However, the scored line could make your saw start there and not on the waste side. Neither are reasons not to use a knife but just things you need to be aware of.
Measure with a micrometer, mark with chalk and cut with a chainsaw. 🤣 Back in the day, we had carpenters that it seemed like used this method. Had one guy who could unintentionally cut a quarter inch deep curve across the width of a 2x4. )
@@davidguenther8170 I think you are being rather harsh on your colleague. It must take real skill to cut that quarter inch deep curve; I don’t think I could do it.
@@theofarmmanager267 Not really. He warped and burned up a few saw blades. Some people just weren't meant to be saw men. By the way, 40+ years as a carpenter here.
I thought I was doing so well with sharp pencils but your marking methods are awesome. Using ruler indents makes so much sense. Filling the knife score with pencil lead and removing the excess is nothing short of brilliant for my old eyes. Thank you 🙂
I took a cabinet class at our local college and the instructor taught us how to use the story stick and I still use it when making cabinets and other projects. Also, he showed us pics of many custom cabinets he built over the years using a story stick. What a great tool
I always enjoy your tips and knowledge. I am a second generation woodworker my father was able to spin a hammer as usual. When he was interviewing a new carpenter he would ask him if they could spin the hammer. If they could spin the hammer he said he would keep his eye on them obviously they’ve been fooling around too much.😂😂😂
I used to be the foreman on our crew. Sometimes I'd have to hire other carpenters. My test was whether they were more leaning to mo, larry or Curly. If they leaned to Shemp, they too were in strong consideration. If, however, they were NOT fans of the 3 stooges, then they were likely not going to be hired. After all, if they were going to fit in with the rest of us knuckleheads, they had to be up to snuff.😀
Thanks for bringing attention to parallax on measuring tools. I feel like to many people don't understand it, and then wonder why their cuts are off all the time.
I watch hundreds of videos on various subjects, and yours are always on point, well thought of, and frankly a pleasure to watch and learn. Thanks friend!!!
My first video of yours i saw was your cutting and handling of plywood video, what you did there was so incredibly simple yet brilliant. I am looking forward to all of your videos. I happen to be a machinest by trade, and as I am certain you are aware of many of us have gone into wood. Thank you for sharing the knowledge that you do, too many keep it too closely guarded and do not pass the information onto the next generation.
Your most welcome. You may be amused to here that I am a woodworker who went into machining -- have been building pioneer aircraft replicas for 20 years, and you both.
I never watch one of these videos without getting value. Always a tip I can use. Nick is experience presented, instead of a presentation experience. Also thanks for not shoving product at me Ala JKM and many others. I've reached the point of not even clicking those anymore.
You're most welcome, but I have to warn you that advertising may be the only way we can sustain this effort. Our plans sales were keeping us afloat, but inflation has changed that.
I often use more than one face for the story stick, ie., One face for vertical measurements and a perpendicular face for horizontal measurements. A couple of times, I used all four faces for the different measurements on a project because there were vertical rail height differences between sets of cabinets, although they were all the same height overall.
Great technique and advice. Thanks! P.S. I remember the pencil rotating technique from drafting class over 50 years ago. Some advice just stays with you. (I wish I could say the same for ALL the good advice I received.)
This is one of the most useful tips I have heard in a long time. I'm about to build three doors for my basement rooms and will be able to use this information for each of them. Thank you.
Story sticks are invaluable for hanging doors, too, when you don’t have a multi jig hinge template. If doing production door replacements on an entire house, it will make you some serious money.
This was timely for me, as I will soon be trying to make my wife the cabinets she wants. So will use this to help me. Still loving your sense of humor.
I like woodworking but I have terrible double vision which always meant that measuring and marking things took way longer than everyone else. This video is really well timed as I'm trying to make my own cabinets and this technique works better for me because the indentation in the wood are easier to see and feel. Thanks!
The clarity of your explanation just reinforces that the best is often the most simple. The only thing I would add to this otherwise brilliant clip would be to mark the story stick just in case you need it later in the project
Good video. Liked your scribing knife and broke into watching the video to search for one. Found plenty with wood and plastic handles; found your one on eBay and ordered it. Now, back to the video and see how to use it.
My stepfather was a furniture maker, he was Japanese and used all hand tools to make fabulous traditional Japanese furniture. I never saw a pencil in his shop? He always used a scoring knife as you recommended.
Here is a similar trick when needing a repetitive layout on an industrial scale: You can use drywall tape to layout soffits, restrooms or anything else that needs to have duplicated framing or joinery. The tape doesn't stretch and if you use waterproof ink and a sharp pointed pen you can add marks and notes as needed. The tape rolls up neatly and if you take care of it can last for months. Handy if you need to layout dozens (or hundreds) of features on a large job, or to simply transfer elevations around a room. Just include a registration mark to align with a laser or grid line.
Another excellent demonstration & tutorial Nick! Great information for measurements that are both accurate & consistent. Bookmarking this video for later viewing! Thanks... 👍👍👏👏🔨🔨
Always. I Always get a great "why didn't I think of that before??" moment when watching your videos. This time it was using a metal ruler at 90 degrees to eliminate paralax. Duh.... :) I can't tell you how much I value your channel. PS I couldn't tell if you were using the phrase "good enough for govt work" in its original meaning (excellent work) or jokingly in its more common, modern usage (bare minimum). I suspect the former :)
Parallax. Now I've got a name for an aspect I've been challenged with for so long. Yup, I 'zero' with the 1" mark and add an inch to the measurement. I do well to keep from dropping my rulers on their ends and deforming them but still don't trust them either. I like my framers square and mechanical pencils. But there are times when I need this level of accuracy. Addressing parallax again, I wish someone made a flat tape measure instead of the usual concave one. Awesome video! Thanks for sharing!
I have several. One marked for 16's, one for 12's, one for 24's. Even a little pocket on for 6's and 8's for neat nailing. And of course one with 6, 8, 10 (pythagoras). With a hammer, saw, nails knife and a stick and I can build a house, neatly and accurately.
I picked up scoring from hanging sheet rock. One day decided to layout some wood the same way, & have been doing so whenever I need more accuracy than a pencil gives. Seems like my dang pencils always have broken tips, anyway; a blade's always sharp enough for scoring.
I have a question not related to this video. I'm new to woodworking and I work mostly with blue pine because I like the look of it and I get it from my property. I want to line my house (around 1800 sqft) with blue pine but I don't know what to finish it with or if I can just put it up without finishing it. I don't want a finish that might start to flake off in 5-10 years as I would have to strip all the wood to refinish it. I don't care about a fingerprint here and there as I want my house to be lived in and I think of marks as memories. As far as my idea of not finishing it, my thought was that if there was a dark smudge that I really didn't want I could take some fine sandpaper and remove it, but I don't know if there are ramifications to not finishing wood that would outweigh that idea. Any thoughts would be great. Thank you. :)
Precise, yes. Accurate, yes. Dead on, no. All measurements have tolerances, and we forget that at our peril. Nothing is perfect, and it is wise to always keep that in mind. A machinist works with this every day.
@@addammadd Woodworkers also work to tolerances; larger ones perhaps, but still tolerances. And those a cabinetmaker would work to are finer than, say, a blacksmith. Your standards are set not by your materials, but by your ambitions. A closed mind has never improved quality.
All your videos are great. Learn a great deal and learn the "why" for most things, making the concepts stick far better.
Thanks for the kind words.
I really like how you include explanations of thing like parallax with graphics to enforce the idea visually. That is one of the best teaching methods I know. I spent 40+ years as an electronics engineer, but my BS degree is in Technical Education. That technique is one of the tools I learned about in my degree program. I hadn't even thought about it for many years until I saw this video. Kudos!
Thanks for saying.
Nick what a great tip, as an engineer when I use to put lead to vellum I was told to rotate the pencil and I do that for my projects, when I would cut the wood I would be short by a 1/32 to a 1/64th I thought it was my saw or tape measure, went out and tried your tip and THANK YOU I was dead on, now I know why I have your books lol Thank you Nick
Most welcome.
How can you possibly give this video a 'thumbs down'? The man is spitting jewels
I can never watch _part_ of one of your videos. Not every single one of them always applies directly to my small projects, but no matter my initial intentions when clicking the video I watch them beginning to end 100% of the time. Better yet, I learn something valuable each and every time as well.
Thanks for saying.
I've seen others talk about marking with a knife, but they always said to use a marking knife. I was so glad to see you show the use of a utility knife too! At worst, you'll be off by half the thickness of the blade, which is almost never a problem
I took a fine woodworking class last year and we were shown marking out with cheap folding utility knives as well as proper marking knives. The tutor used the utility knife almost exclusively including to mark out dovetails. There was no discernable difference in accuracy as long as you angle the utility knife to ensure the cutting edge is tight against the ruler.
Nick is a great man. These videos are packed tight with useful, relevant information.
This is brilliant. Obviously I need to go watch to the future and watch your older videos mate. That comment about memory is so true, at least in my case. I couldn't tell you what I had for breakfast this morning. I had never ever thought of slipping a blade into the recess of a mark that you can feel. I'm going to give that a try. Cheers Nick. You are, as we say here in Oz, a legend.
Excellent video and its nice to see these skills and methods kept alive. I like to attach a small piece of flat quarter or half inch plywood at the beginning of my story sticks. This way I have a visual and physical reference point - learnt this in a ‘teachable moment’.
I've never heard anyone besides my dad say "Good enough for government work." Instant credibility!
Wish I'd seen this video sooner. I'm halfway through making crude kitchen cabinets.
When I was in the USAF, we'd jokingly say that good enough for government work consisted of:
Measuring it with a micrometer. Marking it with a crayon. Cutting it with an axe.
I’ve been woodworking for over 45 years. I still learn every day (okay, perhaps not every day; let’s say every few days). Sometimes it’s stuff I knew but left behind in favour of a bad technique; occasionally, it’s stuff I never knew.
For all those who are realities newbies (which, at my age, must be over 90% of the viewers), this channel is one of those “must watch even though I think I know it all”. Very well presented with a total absence of condescension, it delivers its message every time.
The saying used to be; carpenters use a carpenters pencil; a joiner uses a pencil and a cabinet maker uses a knife. Well, those lines are blurred but it’s a good saying to have in your mind when you reach for a pencil when you should be using a knife. Sometimes absolute accuracy (which I think of as +/- 0.1mm or around 5 thousand of an inch) just isn’t necessary. If you are using solid timber, the piece is likely to move much more than that as it reacts to humidity. However, it’s never a bad thing to be more accurate than you need; better than being less accurate than you need.
The score line left by the knife is a superb guide if you need to chisel at that point. Two issues with a knife:
- you can’t erase a scored line as you can a pencil line. Try and work on the reverse side of the piece as scored limes don’t tend to matter there or, as I do, use a 0.5mm lead in a mechanical pencil.
- if you are sawing at the scored line, you would normally cut just past the line on the waste side, and shoot the timber back to where you want it to be. However, the scored line could make your saw start there and not on the waste side.
Neither are reasons not to use a knife but just things you need to be aware of.
Thanks for sharing.
Measure with a micrometer, mark with chalk and cut with a chainsaw. 🤣 Back in the day, we had carpenters that it seemed like used this method. Had one guy who could unintentionally cut a quarter inch deep curve across the width of a 2x4. )
@@davidguenther8170 I think you are being rather harsh on your colleague. It must take real skill to cut that quarter inch deep curve; I don’t think I could do it.
@@theofarmmanager267 Not really. He warped and burned up a few saw blades. Some people just weren't meant to be saw men. By the way, 40+ years as a carpenter here.
I thought I was doing so well with sharp pencils but your marking methods are awesome. Using ruler indents makes so much sense. Filling the knife score with pencil lead and removing the excess is nothing short of brilliant for my old eyes. Thank you 🙂
Most welcome.
I took a cabinet class at our local college and the instructor taught us how to use the story stick and I still use it when making cabinets and other projects. Also, he showed us pics of many custom cabinets he built over the years using a story stick. What a great tool
Always clear, concise & so informative. The best woodworking videos available!,
Thanks. We try.
I always enjoy your tips and knowledge. I am a second generation woodworker my father was able to spin a hammer as usual. When he was interviewing a new carpenter he would ask him if they could spin the hammer. If they could spin the hammer he said he would keep his eye on them obviously they’ve been fooling around too much.😂😂😂
I'm actually curious to know if there is any story behind the spinner-handle-ring accessory.
I used to be the foreman on our crew. Sometimes I'd have to hire other carpenters. My test was whether they were more leaning to mo, larry or Curly. If they leaned to Shemp, they too were in strong consideration. If, however, they were NOT fans of the 3 stooges, then they were likely not going to be hired. After all, if they were going to fit in with the rest of us knuckleheads, they had to be up to snuff.😀
Your father was a wise man.
This qualifies as philanthropy for me, the knowledge you share is priceless, thank you.
Most welcome.
I learned this method 50 years ago and never found anything better. Very well demonstrated.
Thanks.
It's easily the most useful video I've found in decades of youtube!
Thanks for bringing attention to parallax on measuring tools. I feel like to many people don't understand it, and then wonder why their cuts are off all the time.
You're most welcome. And you're right -- this is an important detail that too often gets less attention than it deserves.
Yep, thats me 😊
Thanks, Nick. Even though we seasoned wood workers know this, it's always good to get the occasional refresher to maintain skills.
I'm loving this channel man. I work at a frame shop and your videos are informative and digestible
Thanks for your kinds words about the vids, but you really shouldn't eat them. At least, not more than one or two at a time...;-)
Great ideas. Thanks for sharing this method for better accuracy. Once upon a time, I used a story stick and still do.
I love that expression. Good enough for government work. Great share, thank you.
As someone who knows a government worker, I approve this message!😂
I watch hundreds of videos on various subjects, and yours are always on point, well thought of, and frankly a pleasure to watch and learn. Thanks friend!!!
My first video of yours i saw was your cutting and handling of plywood video, what you did there was so incredibly simple yet brilliant. I am looking forward to all of your videos. I happen to be a machinest by trade, and as I am certain you are aware of many of us have gone into wood. Thank you for sharing the knowledge that you do, too many keep it too closely guarded and do not pass the information onto the next generation.
Your most welcome. You may be amused to here that I am a woodworker who went into machining -- have been building pioneer aircraft replicas for 20 years, and you both.
I never watch one of these videos without getting value. Always a tip I can use.
Nick is experience presented, instead of a presentation experience.
Also thanks for not shoving product at me Ala JKM and many others. I've reached the point of not even clicking those anymore.
You're most welcome, but I have to warn you that advertising may be the only way we can sustain this effort. Our plans sales were keeping us afloat, but inflation has changed that.
I often use more than one face for the story stick, ie., One face for vertical measurements and a perpendicular face for horizontal measurements. A couple of times, I used all four faces for the different measurements on a project because there were vertical rail height differences between sets of cabinets, although they were all the same height overall.
Great technique and advice. Thanks!
P.S. I remember the pencil rotating technique from drafting class over 50 years ago. Some advice just stays with you. (I wish I could say the same for ALL the good advice I received.)
Thanks
Great tip Nick! Thanks for always entertain and teach us at the same time! God bless you!
This is one of the most useful tips I have heard in a long time. I'm about to build three doors for my basement rooms and will be able to use this information for each of them. Thank you.
Glad to have been of help.
Story sticks are invaluable for hanging doors, too, when you don’t have a multi jig hinge template. If doing production door replacements on an entire house, it will make you some serious money.
Great tip. I'll be using this method for all my critical measurements in the future.
Thank you for these tips. I have been trying to figure out why my cabinets are always a tidge off. Now I know that I have to adopt a "new" way.
thank you.... this is the best carpentry advice I've seen in a long time
This was timely for me, as I will soon be trying to make my wife the cabinets she wants. So will use this to help me. Still loving your sense of humor.
Some great tips - particularly the parallax one.
I still do the pencil-rolling trick. I thought I'd come up with that myself!
Trying to learn how to make and use story sticks. Many thanks for such a clear explanation.
Most welcome.
I like woodworking but I have terrible double vision which always meant that measuring and marking things took way longer than everyone else. This video is really well timed as I'm trying to make my own cabinets and this technique works better for me because the indentation in the wood are easier to see and feel. Thanks!
Most welcome.
The clarity of your explanation just reinforces that the best is often the most simple. The only thing I would add to this otherwise brilliant clip would be to mark the story stick just in case you need it later in the project
Good video. Liked your scribing knife and broke into watching the video to search for one. Found plenty with wood and plastic handles; found your one on eBay and ordered it. Now, back to the video and see how to use it.
I really like your style. Information and humour in equal measure 🌞
Thanks.
Yet again interesting content delivered like no other.
Yay, story sticks! I just saw a video on "ticking sticks" so now I've got TWO crazy woodworking sticks to try out!
Every time I watch one of your videos I learn something new. 👍
Thanks for the video.
Most welcome.
My stepfather was a furniture maker, he was Japanese and used all hand tools to make fabulous traditional Japanese furniture. I never saw a pencil in his shop? He always used a scoring knife as you recommended.
What a great tip, now stored in my brain for my next project to be started soon, thank you
Most welcome.
Here is a similar trick when needing a repetitive layout on an industrial scale: You can use drywall tape to layout soffits, restrooms or anything else that needs to have duplicated framing or joinery.
The tape doesn't stretch and if you use waterproof ink and a sharp pointed pen you can add marks and notes as needed. The tape rolls up neatly and if you take care of it can last for months. Handy if you need to layout dozens (or hundreds) of features on a large job, or to simply transfer elevations around a room. Just include a registration mark to align with a laser or grid line.
Thanks or sharing.
I have become a fan! Great info and perfect presentation. 5 stars!
Thanks.
Excellent video, narration and animation. As one of those extinct species draftsman, I cant help but endorse this video.
Thanks for saying.
90° ruler to the wood. Genius tip Thanks.
Great video, Nick.
Another excellent demonstration & tutorial Nick! Great information for measurements that are both accurate & consistent. Bookmarking this video for later viewing! Thanks... 👍👍👏👏🔨🔨
Welcome.
Always. I Always get a great "why didn't I think of that before??" moment when watching your videos. This time it was using a metal ruler at 90 degrees to eliminate paralax. Duh.... :)
I can't tell you how much I value your channel.
PS I couldn't tell if you were using the phrase "good enough for govt work" in its original meaning (excellent work) or jokingly in its more common, modern usage (bare minimum). I suspect the former :)
Awesome common information that I didn't think about. I will use this method going forward. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for saying.
Learned things here I never knew!!! Thank you so much.
Very useful tip, good video, Thanks.
"Fall out in the same order they went in". Priceless!
I learned from Rob Cosman to use a marking knife. Changed my game completely.
Parallax. Now I've got a name for an aspect I've been challenged with for so long.
Yup, I 'zero' with the 1" mark and add an inch to the measurement. I do well to keep from dropping my rulers on their ends and deforming them but still don't trust them either.
I like my framers square and mechanical pencils. But there are times when I need this level of accuracy.
Addressing parallax again, I wish someone made a flat tape measure instead of the usual concave one.
Awesome video! Thanks for sharing!
This is top ‘notch’ work!
Excellent. I don't need such accuracy, I don't do such fine work, but it is good information to know
I have several. One marked for 16's, one for 12's, one for 24's. Even a little pocket on for 6's and 8's for neat nailing. And of course one with 6, 8, 10 (pythagoras). With a hammer, saw, nails knife and a stick and I can build a house, neatly and accurately.
Always a pleasure to watch and learn from you Nick you are awesome at what you do thanks
Most welcome.
I’m willing to bet that you’ve forgotten more about wood working then I’ll ever know in 3 lifetimes of working wood. Fabulous video!
The operative word there is forgotten. Fortunately, I wrote most of it down. Somewhere.
❤Excellent and well done. Appreciate you and your teaching style.
Thanks.
Great. Once again. John
Simple and awsome! ❤ Some alternative might be to use thin automatic pencil 😊
Thanks Nick, great idea.
I like it! I'll use it on the next project that it makes sense to do so.
Great advice. Thank you.
Once again, Nick…
Thanks.
Excellent advice. Thank you!
Outstanding! Thank you!
Brilliant, Nick! Thanks a bunch for the tips! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thanks.
That earned a like and a subscribe…and a comment. I think I just found a shop teacher I can actually relate to.
Excellent method and perfectly presented - thanks.
Most welcome.
Man, I enjoy your videos!
I pay attention to my pencil line and cut on the edge of the line. Put one side of the saw on the edge of the line. Works well.
It's so much fun learning these things. Thank you.
It's also a lot of fun teaching them. Most welcome.
This guy ain't foolin' around. I need to share this video.
I'll use it, thanks!
I rarely add videos to my "Masterclass, Stone, Steel, Wood" playlist.
I added this one.
Great video, love the new animations!
Thanks.
Lovely work and entertaining!
Good tips all. Thank you.
Most welcome.
I picked up scoring from hanging sheet rock. One day decided to layout some wood the same way, & have been doing so whenever I need more accuracy than a pencil gives.
Seems like my dang pencils always have broken tips, anyway; a blade's always sharp enough for scoring.
I hear you. A knife always makes a sharp line, and the point rarely breaks.
I have a question not related to this video. I'm new to woodworking and I work mostly with blue pine because I like the look of it and I get it from my property. I want to line my house (around 1800 sqft) with blue pine but I don't know what to finish it with or if I can just put it up without finishing it. I don't want a finish that might start to flake off in 5-10 years as I would have to strip all the wood to refinish it. I don't care about a fingerprint here and there as I want my house to be lived in and I think of marks as memories. As far as my idea of not finishing it, my thought was that if there was a dark smudge that I really didn't want I could take some fine sandpaper and remove it, but I don't know if there are ramifications to not finishing wood that would outweigh that idea. Any thoughts would be great. Thank you. :)
Excellent Video ! Thank you very much
Most welcome.
Another great vid
Second best marker is a mechanical pencil. Pentel is a standard brand. Choose from lead thickness 0.5, 0.7, 0.9 and hardness 2H, H, HB.
Brilliant, thank you for this!! Definitely using this next time!!
Most welcome.
So Mr. Engler we're or are you a shop teacher. If not you missed your calling. Great videos 👍
oh my god. We need this. You should be on this old house!
Thanks for saying.
Well explained gold.
My dad taught me "good enough for govern'ment work"! Cheers!
I can relate to you on memory💯
You are amazing!
@3:26 That's the story of my life! LOL
Brilliant!!!
Precise, yes. Accurate, yes. Dead on, no. All measurements have tolerances, and we forget that at our peril. Nothing is perfect, and it is wise to always keep that in mind. A machinist works with this every day.
A perfectly appropriate comment on a machinist’s video. This is a woodworking channel and we forget this at our peril.
@@addammadd Woodworkers also work to tolerances; larger ones perhaps, but still tolerances. And those a cabinetmaker would work to are finer than, say, a blacksmith. Your standards are set not by your materials, but by your ambitions. A closed mind has never improved quality.
Great - again.