When I did one of my first PS1 modchip installs for a friend (probably around 2002), I flattened the pins on the PIC chip, and held it onto the CPU with a spot of superglue. It worked fine for a few months, but then the friend said his PS1 stopped working. The vibration from the CD mech and top shield had gone through the modchip, and caused dry joints on some of the CPU pins. LOL So yeah, I never installed it that way ever again.
My high school had a basic electronics elective class it was taught by a retired electrical engineer and he said something like 98% of problems with consumer electronics boils down to a bad solder connection. I hope someday analogue releases hardware to play PS1 games using industrial grade microchips😅
That might been true once up on a time but new Xbox series s and ps5s ect it’s cheep chips and components sad how these massive companies get away with how bad ps5s are and ssds on Xbox are
Quite remarkable that the sound started working when you applied pressure elsewhere - bit of a hundred to one shot that given the number of bad joints! Have to wonder if they weren't dry from the start - might be worth checking over the others.
Those legs are still very, very close to the pads. When he was going around poking the board, he was sending vibrations across the entire thing and causing the board to flex ever so slightly. That's why the IC, which at times was decently far away from where he was poking, was affected.
My Gamecube has the same issue with refusing to boot original discs. It only recognises copies as originals, and originals as copies.. Which is apparently a known issue with the modchip I installed back then
Very fun vid!, i used ps1's as an intro to game repair. I remember buying a 10 count of broken ps1s on ebay, and I think 6 of them just needed a pot adjustment for the laser. I've read that maybe that's not a good long term fix.. but some of those 6 went to freinds of mine and as far as I know.. they still work, and that was about 5 years ago.
32:08 - Some nice soldering there. Goes to show it is possible to just solder each pin at a time, even with tiny pins and a large-ish soldering tip. ;)
I'm glad I take good care of my OG PlayStation One original you never know when it's going to suddenly fail that's why I look after it very carefully maintain it and check it every few weeks to make sure it's working alright and check the circuit board for any Uno exploding caps.
I don´t really know the 9000-series, but on my 1000-series i could adjust the y-signal from the laser. There it is a testpoint near the two potentiometers, near the disccable. Called 704 or 407. Maybe on the 9000-series is something simillar.
It's call the tin pest, sometimes this affect called the museum disease, later model like SCPH-900X suffering from this affect, you need resolder all pins on that chip and preferably all chips on the board.
Interesting. Although it seems to affect lead free solder more than leaded. I don't think the 9000 series uses lead free, and after going around the rest of that chip it was only that one side that lifted. I still think the modchip was putting pressure on that side of the chip, and the corner pins with their larger pads are the only thing that stopped more legs being lifted on the other sides
I think, it is possible that the solder produced in violation of the production technology could have been used for this model, I think, if the solder was in its normal state, then a mechanical impact on the chip would most likely cause the tear off traces with pins from the board. It is possible that this console was subjected to some kind of temperature difference and mechanical stress could cause such damage in this place of chip soldering. I got a similar affect on one old dirty video card S3 Trio 3D/2X, when I washed it under warm water, then I dried it with a regular hair dryer, after that the video card stopped working, for a while I could not understand why the reason, until I noticed that in one corner of the chip the contacts moved freely and The soldering of these contacts was broken. Video card produced in year 99, chip package QFP 208 pins. Sorry if you misunderstood what i wrote, english is not my native language, I hope my information help to you and in other repairs.
@@TheRetroChannelou're not a proper repair guy until you've fried yourself at least a dozen times 😂 Just make sure you don't complete the circuit across your chest and you'll be fine - it's the current that gets ya.
Awesome video thank you. I got an old ps1 recently that I was disc swapping to play spyro 3. Spindle broke. I'm gonna see about making it use a memory card or something instead
First time viewer,Enjoyed that and it’s been i while since i have seen a PS1 on the bench.I modified a heck of a lot of these back in the day but always ran the PIC away from the board.Unsure what the resistor was for but hey ho.Thanks Anyway
Unfortunately all technology has a death/failure expectancy. Doesn't matter if never used, components will still die. When the laser is failing it's BER. I do like old tech, old software .
And this is why i cry whenever electronics break especially ones dear to me. I remember crying like crazy when i was a kid whenever a PS1 broke down on me as i treated that thing like it was my firstborn as a stupid selfish kid 😂 I also cried when a Dell Dimension 3000 tower stopped working one day and stopped powering on. Boy was i deeply upset?
Nice repair. Those cd drive mechs are available new but they are mostly junk. Hopefully you find a good supplier. I have a ps1 in need of one too. There is also a decent softmod these days too. Tonyhax iirc.
The new ones are not new. There is a website that has SONY new old stock, but they are quite expensive now. The best quality optical pickups sony made in the PS1 era are in the PSOne units. You can use them with case swaps and sometimes necessary ribbon cable extenders. A pain for sure. I'm lucky to have ammassed a decently amount of well working PS1 lasers (not a lot... but I have 3-4 that work well). I have zero worries I'll ever not be able to play the retail games I want to play in my original PS1 units.
Before the console is taken apart I’ll guess it’s the chip or more the soldering. Maybe bridged across other pads or chip legs. I chipped my 9001. Pads are tiny. I mounted my chip on a rubber square I glued into the foot recess towards the front on the inside then mounted my chip on that. Oh the wiring is like porn. If you love a tidy job 😆
@TheRetroChannel Are you in Australia I have a modded ps1 it powers on spins up but no video or audio do you think it’s the mod chip or an issue on the main board I’ve tried different power supply’s cheers Ricky
Yeah I'm in Aus. No video or audio is unlikely to be modchip related, but you could always remove it to be sure. I'd start with the simple stuff, try another AV cable, carefully inspect the board for anything that looks odd, push down on some of the chips to see if there's any change (also feel for anything getting incredibly hot). Beyond that you probably need an oscilloscope to check clock signals, data lines etc
1:00 There is a short interruption of the sound (no more than a second) when playing the boot screen and always in the same place - exactly at the moment when the orange logo appears. At the same time, the logo animation goes well and smoothly. And it doesn't matter if there is a disk inside or not. Any idea why the sound is interrupted? BTW, the games goes well, there are no problems with the sound. (SCPH-5502) upd: found the "problem". It was my TV which interrupts sound for half second while PS boot 🤠
Is it a PAL or NTSC machine? I noticed that my PAL machines seem to output 60hz when first powered on, but quickly switch to 50hz soon after. I think that was tripping up the retrotink, and the screen would go blank for a second during the first bootscreen. But my LCD display seems to handle it fine
@@TheRetroChannel It is PAL PlayStation scph-5502 (with chip mod for region free🙃) + old LCD TV Philips 20PFL4122/10 4:3 640*480. Then I connected PS to the amplifier and made sure that everything was fine with the nostalgic boot sound.
I have a 5501 with the sorta the same issues only reason why it won't reas games is its a faulty laser si i ordered a new optical drive for it. And it gives me video but no audio i thought maybe thr AV port is dirty i cleaned it and nothing. Then i thought maybe broken port so I took a spare AV poaet if a PS3 super slim motherboard and used it on the PS1 still the same issue I used my magnifier ti see for anything out of place but everything is soldered in place. Could someone help me out cause I cant think if anything else is is itnthat i just have a faulty audio chip or something?
I paused it when he started pushing on IC's...my guess is the pcb is delaminating or its been twisted and caused multiple cracked or messed up connections if that makes any sense at all...let's see how badly I was wrong now 😂 it's probably a loose piece of something conductive under the board lol...let's see...
Surface tension wrecks a lot of those tiny little legs on quad flat pack IC's. This one not only had NATURAL surface tension... but a surprise you'll find out about later :)
Ok, could be a bad connection between the GPU and the video DAC. There are a number of data lines going between them for red, green and blue. It could be a bad joint or joints, but it could also be a fault with one of those ICs.
Thanks for this video! I have a 9002 model which had a very similar audio issue, but it was more or less intermittent. Resoldered the chips shown in this video, but no dice. Have no microscope, just a crappy magnifier, so I couldn't really search for broken solder joints. Recently tried my luck again and resoldered the CPU out of suspicion. And to my surprise the glitchy sound is gone! Btw. this is what it sounded like: ua-cam.com/video/CSTvWfpxYKY/v-deo.html
Nice. I'm guessing there was a bad joint on one of the pins on the right hand side of the CPU. There's a bunch of data and address lines there that go between the CPU, sound ram, and audio processor
Remove the black jumper cable, and if one full side of an IC has faulty joints, you might want to check the other 3 sides? And please, please, always remove the power lead before doing any work on electrical items. You UA-cam fixer upper guys are gonna kill yourselves one of these days.
Of course we’re excited about a fully working PS1! That PlayStation startup sound is as wonderfully nostalgic to me as the C64’s blue screen of life.
Incredible how many bad connections on that side of the DSP!!!!! Great job!
When I did one of my first PS1 modchip installs for a friend (probably around 2002), I flattened the pins on the PIC chip, and held it onto the CPU with a spot of superglue.
It worked fine for a few months, but then the friend said his PS1 stopped working.
The vibration from the CD mech and top shield had gone through the modchip, and caused dry joints on some of the CPU pins. LOL
So yeah, I never installed it that way ever again.
Oh, not to mention the nasty superglue fumes, which left a thin film over some of the CPU pins. :o
"RTFSM" chapter. LOL
Thanks mate. Yeah I certainly didn't expect to see that
My high school had a basic electronics elective class it was taught by a retired electrical engineer and he said something like 98% of problems with consumer electronics boils down to a bad solder connection. I hope someday analogue releases hardware to play PS1 games using industrial grade microchips😅
That might been true once up on a time but new Xbox series s and ps5s ect it’s cheep chips and components sad how these massive companies get away with how bad ps5s are and ssds on Xbox are
That was crazy the number of broken joints...
Respect for Tenchu.
Quite remarkable that the sound started working when you applied pressure elsewhere - bit of a hundred to one shot that given the number of bad joints! Have to wonder if they weren't dry from the start - might be worth checking over the others.
Those legs are still very, very close to the pads. When he was going around poking the board, he was sending vibrations across the entire thing and causing the board to flex ever so slightly. That's why the IC, which at times was decently far away from where he was poking, was affected.
My Gamecube has the same issue with refusing to boot original discs. It only recognises copies as originals, and originals as copies.. Which is apparently a known issue with the modchip I installed back then
Very tidy reflow on that Audio Processor IC, nice work
26:30 , "a bunch of bad solder joints", the understatement of the century, basically 1/4 of the chip was disconnected
Very fun vid!, i used ps1's as an intro to game repair. I remember buying a 10 count of broken ps1s on ebay, and I think 6 of them just needed a pot adjustment for the laser. I've read that maybe that's not a good long term fix.. but some of those 6 went to freinds of mine and as far as I know.. they still work, and that was about 5 years ago.
32:08 - Some nice soldering there. Goes to show it is possible to just solder each pin at a time, even with tiny pins and a large-ish soldering tip. ;)
...with added flux, of course. lol
Haha yep, The iron already had knife tip on it so I ran with that
Editing paid off, the pace was great IMO.
Thanks!
Nice catch. Pretty tricky to pick up when one of those tiny legs is loose... 😅
I'm kinda glad so many were loose, would have been a bit harder to find a single loose one
Well done sir!😎👍
Giving you a sub.... I really enjoyed this video on retro consoles... I am in the process of repairing my own.
I'm glad I take good care of my OG PlayStation One original you never know when it's going to suddenly fail that's why I look after it very carefully maintain it and check it every few weeks to make sure it's working alright and check the circuit board for any Uno exploding caps.
I don´t really know the 9000-series, but on my 1000-series i could adjust the y-signal from the laser.
There it is a testpoint near the two potentiometers, near the disccable. Called 704 or 407.
Maybe on the 9000-series is something simillar.
It's call the tin pest, sometimes this affect called the museum disease, later model like SCPH-900X suffering from this affect, you need resolder all pins on that chip and preferably all chips on the board.
Interesting. Although it seems to affect lead free solder more than leaded. I don't think the 9000 series uses lead free, and after going around the rest of that chip it was only that one side that lifted. I still think the modchip was putting pressure on that side of the chip, and the corner pins with their larger pads are the only thing that stopped more legs being lifted on the other sides
I think, it is possible that the solder produced in violation of the production technology could have been used for this model, I think, if the solder was in its normal state, then a mechanical impact on the chip would most likely cause the tear off traces with pins from the board.
It is possible that this console was subjected to some kind of temperature difference and mechanical stress could cause such damage in this place of chip soldering.
I got a similar affect on one old dirty video card S3 Trio 3D/2X, when I washed it under warm water, then I dried it with a regular hair dryer, after that the video card stopped working, for a while I could not understand why the reason, until I noticed that in one corner of the chip the contacts moved freely and The soldering of these contacts was broken.
Video card produced in year 99, chip package QFP 208 pins.
Sorry if you misunderstood what i wrote, english is not my native language, I hope my information help to you and in other repairs.
Really nice video, it's always fun watching your mind work on these issues!
Your pinky got very close to the mains fuse by the look of it. 😮
Haha, maybe. Wouldn't be the first time I've touched a fuse with the power still plugged in ⚡
@@TheRetroChannelou're not a proper repair guy until you've fried yourself at least a dozen times 😂 Just make sure you don't complete the circuit across your chest and you'll be fine - it's the current that gets ya.
Surprising number of bad joints! The microscope certainly helped here.
Awesome video thank you. I got an old ps1 recently that I was disc swapping to play spyro 3. Spindle broke. I'm gonna see about making it use a memory card or something instead
Some ps1 modchips require you to press the reset button to disable the chip and read genuine discs again.
Yep, I go into a bit more detail on that in part 2
When I added a modchip to my PS1 the instructions said to glue it to the top of the sound chip, probably to avoid this very issue.
Good work!
goooood
Hello, try to clean the underside from the laserlens and the reflection mirror. That helps a lot. Greetings from Cologne.👋
Thanks. Yes, I did go into cleaning the mirror in the next video. But there's another major issue which we'll see in part 2
I’m watching this like I have the same issue… I don’t even have a ps1 lol great vid though
First time viewer,Enjoyed that and it’s been i while since i have seen a PS1 on the bench.I modified a heck of a lot of these back in the day but always ran the PIC away from the board.Unsure what the resistor was for but hey ho.Thanks Anyway
Unfortunately all technology has a death/failure expectancy. Doesn't matter if never used, components will still die. When the laser is failing it's BER. I do like old tech, old software
.
And this is why i cry whenever electronics break especially ones dear to me. I remember crying like crazy when i was a kid whenever a PS1 broke down on me as i treated that thing like it was my firstborn as a stupid selfish kid 😂 I also cried when a Dell Dimension 3000 tower stopped working one day and stopped powering on. Boy was i deeply upset?
Nice repair. Those cd drive mechs are available new but they are mostly junk. Hopefully you find a good supplier. I have a ps1 in need of one too. There is also a decent softmod these days too. Tonyhax iirc.
I've heard the "new" ones are not great. I'd rather try and fix the original and then maybe install another modchip
Absolutely no need for mod chips these days if you use UniROM to create a memory card running Freepsxboot
The new ones are not new.
There is a website that has SONY new old stock, but they are quite expensive now.
The best quality optical pickups sony made in the PS1 era are in the PSOne units. You can use them with case swaps and sometimes necessary ribbon cable extenders. A pain for sure. I'm lucky to have ammassed a decently amount of well working PS1 lasers (not a lot... but I have 3-4 that work well). I have zero worries I'll ever not be able to play the retail games I want to play in my original PS1 units.
Before the console is taken apart I’ll guess it’s the chip or more the soldering. Maybe bridged across other pads or chip legs. I chipped my 9001. Pads are tiny. I mounted my chip on a rubber square I glued into the foot recess towards the front on the inside then mounted my chip on that. Oh the wiring is like porn. If you love a tidy job 😆
@TheRetroChannel Are you in Australia I have a modded ps1 it powers on spins up but no video or audio do you think it’s the mod chip or an issue on the main board I’ve tried different power supply’s cheers Ricky
Yeah I'm in Aus. No video or audio is unlikely to be modchip related, but you could always remove it to be sure. I'd start with the simple stuff, try another AV cable, carefully inspect the board for anything that looks odd, push down on some of the chips to see if there's any change (also feel for anything getting incredibly hot). Beyond that you probably need an oscilloscope to check clock signals, data lines etc
1:00 There is a short interruption of the sound (no more than a second) when playing the boot screen and always in the same place - exactly at the moment when the orange logo appears. At the same time, the logo animation goes well and smoothly. And it doesn't matter if there is a disk inside or not. Any idea why the sound is interrupted? BTW, the games goes well, there are no problems with the sound. (SCPH-5502)
upd: found the "problem". It was my TV which interrupts sound for half second while PS boot 🤠
Is it a PAL or NTSC machine? I noticed that my PAL machines seem to output 60hz when first powered on, but quickly switch to 50hz soon after. I think that was tripping up the retrotink, and the screen would go blank for a second during the first bootscreen. But my LCD display seems to handle it fine
@@TheRetroChannel It is PAL PlayStation scph-5502 (with chip mod for region free🙃) + old LCD TV Philips 20PFL4122/10 4:3 640*480. Then I connected PS to the amplifier and made sure that everything was fine with the nostalgic boot sound.
I'd say that consoole has fallen on the floor at some point.
Great job!
I wonder how it did boot up with all those legs disconnected.
I have a 5501 with the sorta the same issues only reason why it won't reas games is its a faulty laser si i ordered a new optical drive for it. And it gives me video but no audio i thought maybe thr AV port is dirty i cleaned it and nothing. Then i thought maybe broken port so I took a spare AV poaet if a PS3 super slim motherboard and used it on the PS1 still the same issue I used my magnifier ti see for anything out of place but everything is soldered in place. Could someone help me out cause I cant think if anything else is is itnthat i just have a faulty audio chip or something?
I paused it when he started pushing on IC's...my guess is the pcb is delaminating or its been twisted and caused multiple cracked or messed up connections if that makes any sense at all...let's see how badly I was wrong now 😂 it's probably a loose piece of something conductive under the board lol...let's see...
Surface tension wrecks a lot of those tiny little legs on quad flat pack IC's. This one not only had NATURAL surface tension... but a surprise you'll find out about later :)
25:32 solid, solid, solid, solid............better than factory?!?
Why PS1 video output is very dark while Sega mega drive video output is very bright and colorful? Is it software problem or hardware?
Playstation Hypnotoad edition
Those might have been bad ever since the day it was manufactured.
Bro, U lifted a pad there, I wish I could teach you, but I'd have to charge....
Nice i have one with the same issue and also doest not output red colours, any tips on that last one, since i now know where to go for the sound?
What AV cable are you using? Scart, svideo, composite? Have you tried multiple cables?
@@TheRetroChannel i have the av cable original one it outputs fine on other consoles so it is something internal
Ok, could be a bad connection between the GPU and the video DAC. There are a number of data lines going between them for red, green and blue. It could be a bad joint or joints, but it could also be a fault with one of those ICs.
@@TheRetroChannel many thanks for your reply, will try to see if i manage to find the fault and will tell you.
It's a wonder it booted at all!
What model of TV/monitor is it? Tia.
Thanks for this video! I have a 9002 model which had a very similar audio issue, but it was more or less intermittent. Resoldered the chips shown in this video, but no dice. Have no microscope, just a crappy magnifier, so I couldn't really search for broken solder joints. Recently tried my luck again and resoldered the CPU out of suspicion. And to my surprise the glitchy sound is gone!
Btw. this is what it sounded like: ua-cam.com/video/CSTvWfpxYKY/v-deo.html
Nice. I'm guessing there was a bad joint on one of the pins on the right hand side of the CPU. There's a bunch of data and address lines there that go between the CPU, sound ram, and audio processor
This PAL PS1 has a LOT of bad parts in the motherboard.
Remove the black jumper cable, and if one full side of an IC has faulty joints, you might want to check the other 3 sides?
And please, please, always remove the power lead before doing any work on electrical items.
You UA-cam fixer upper guys are gonna kill yourselves one of these days.
lmao just smack all the chips your bound to get lucky haha
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍