Great video. Does the damp still sweat behind the plastics liner, would it not cause any issues in the future? Does the damp moistire only climb so far up the wall?
Tip - you can get a drill attachment for mixing the plaster (but also works for mixing paint and cement) for about 15quid but for 35quid from amazon you can get a standalone mixer paddle which works even better (ive had one for several months and works great)
Hi your videos are top notch, I’m planning to go into properties ladder so would you be able to guide me to learn about it plz , I’m based in plymouth southwest
Would it be worth removing the chimney breasts completely? Save you having to have that vent and constant draw of air?? Or is it for feature/aesthetics now?
I'm on expert but, I get that the membrane will prevent the danp from penetrating through to your new plaster and ultimately into the room. What I don't get is, the damp from the hydroscopic salts in the brickwork behind the membrane is still occurring and will ultimately damage the structure behind all of the membrane.
Hi Stephen, Thanks for the insightful question! The main cause of the issue is typically high moisture content in the room air itself, which reacts when it contacts the hygroscopic salts in the wall. By installing a constant trickle fan in both the bathroom and kitchen, the overall moisture levels in the room will be lowered, helping to prevent this reaction. With the damp-proof membrane acting as a barrier between the hygroscopic salts and the room’s air, they won’t come into direct contact, which effectively minimises is issue. This approach tackles the root issue by reducing room humidity and isolating the salts, keeping the interior dry and protected. Hope this helps clarify, and thanks for watching!
As always Dan a really useful video, thank you
You are very welcome Kevin, thanks for watching and for dropping a comment
£600 instead of six grand, you did very well 👏 👌 👍 😀 😊 terrific video thanks
Thank you 😁
Great video. Does the damp still sweat behind the plastics liner, would it not cause any issues in the future? Does the damp moistire only climb so far up the wall?
Tip - you can get a drill attachment for mixing the plaster (but also works for mixing paint and cement) for about 15quid but for 35quid from amazon you can get a standalone mixer paddle which works even better (ive had one for several months and works great)
Excellent video, Dan. Super useful.
Thanks for watching Chris, I`m glad that you found the video useful.
Very useful video Dan. I'm dealing with a similar damp issue now, so it's been really timely.
high value video, really enjoyed it thankyou
Thanks so much for watching and for taking the time to drop a comment
As always great content, well done 👍.
Thank you, I`m glad that you enjoyed it.
Doing all that work, you've definitely got the skills to be able to plaster that small area. You can do it. Save more cash. Great effort
Hi your videos are top notch, I’m planning to go into properties ladder so would you be able to guide me to learn about it plz , I’m based in plymouth southwest
Would it be worth removing the chimney breasts completely? Save you having to have that vent and constant draw of air?? Or is it for feature/aesthetics now?
A great example of why you should get a damp expert in.
You say that, but damp proofer's must have the worst reputation of all tradesman next to roofers.
Finding any trade that actually knows what they’re doing is a challenge to many ‘experts’ that have done one day courses.
❤
I'm on expert but, I get that the membrane will prevent the danp from penetrating through to your new plaster and ultimately into the room. What I don't get is, the damp from the hydroscopic salts in the brickwork behind the membrane is still occurring and will ultimately damage the structure behind all of the membrane.
Hi Stephen,
Thanks for the insightful question! The main cause of the issue is typically high moisture content in the room air itself, which reacts when it contacts the hygroscopic salts in the wall. By installing a constant trickle fan in both the bathroom and kitchen, the overall moisture levels in the room will be lowered, helping to prevent this reaction.
With the damp-proof membrane acting as a barrier between the hygroscopic salts and the room’s air, they won’t come into direct contact, which effectively minimises is issue. This approach tackles the root issue by reducing room humidity and isolating the salts, keeping the interior dry and protected. Hope this helps clarify, and thanks for watching!
could i have the lonk and details of the damp course you did and also their contact details please
Sure, thanks for watching.
Telephone Number: 01942 887920
Email: customersupport@pamties.co.uk
Website: pamties.co.uk/
Educational Damp Course: pamties.co.uk/product/condensation-ventilation-mould-masterclass-manchester/
Is the damp not from rain on the outside wall? How can a little bit of water inside the house cause that much damage