Great Video - When you first start up, fill up the water with the detergent and run the ultrasonic for 10mins to degas the detergent solution. Once this is done the ultrasonic will work more efficiently to clean you carburettor parts.
I'm a brewer. Professional, not a homebrew guy that thinks he knows what he's talking about. I honestly didnt consider this. But it makes sense. High vibrations, lots of cavitation... without messing with surface area of the air/oxygen exposed area. Thank you for mentioning this. Even if it's not accurate, I'm gonna let water sit for a while, then let one sample go untreated, one sample go for 10 mins in the ultrasonic, then run it through the company's DO (dissolved oxygen) meter. Even if it isnt true (I dont know), it will be great to experiment on and give legitimate results to myself and my motorcycle carb cleaning buddies.
I started using Mean Green several years ago after using Purple Power. The Mean Green is cheaper and it does a better job. You can also save on cleaner by placing parts in a zip lock bag with a small amount of cleaner and just use water in the ultrasonic tub.
I do that too, also makes clean-up a snap. Just pour out the tub, no need to even rinse. I also cut cleaners a bit, but only use distilled or deionized water - more power than hard tap water.
The purple has a hydroxide component, similar to drano or lye. It reacts with aluminum which is the black compound and also forms hydrogen gas. That's most likely what made the bubbles. Be careful when trapping it with the lid.
Nice video. I use simple green too. In fact yesterday i cleaned the engine bay on my 700 xc sp with it. Cleaning my sleds for summer storage. I love simple green. Thanks...
Nice vid! I have used purple power, and I have used soapy water. The temp makes a huge difference for cleaning anything oily and greasy, but if you're doing anything made of zinc or aluminum, the higher temps will cause reactions that leading to an ugly surface finish. I noticed this when cleaning up some older cast alum parts.
Saved me some headache I’ve got a jug of Purple Power sitting next to my new ultrasonic cleaner and was going to clean the carbs on my FZ1. Glad I found your video, back to the Autozone it goes.
You need a basket that hooks over the sides. Placing parts directly on the floor of the tank will shorten the life of the transducers. The heavier the parts the shorter the transducer life. Ask me how I know this to be true. :-) Thanks for taking the time to try the different cleaners. I use mine mostly for gun parts and records, I love it.
@@AKproXR I understand your position, I did the same thing with my 1st ultrasonic cleaner. I'm just sharing with you the fact that after mine stopped working I searched the web far and wide for a fix. What I found was a lot of people with different brands and sizes of cleaners, which didn't last very long (operational time not ownership time), who seemed to share one common trait, placing items directly on the floor of the cleaner. I noticed your basket doesn't have handles that allow it to be hung from the sides, forcing you to set it on the floor of the tub. You can easily make handles out of wire coat hangers that would allow you to hang the basket off the sides, prolonging the life of the machine. Bottom line, everything has limitations. Operate that thing outside of it's limits and it will fail. All the best.
Nice video on comparing the different cleaners and the effectiveness of the Ultra Sonic cleaning unit. The directions for Purple Power say to test on small area of item to be cleaned "especially on aluminum". It does also have the "Corrosive" symbol on the label as well. Oh well, live and learn. The carb is still usable I'm sure and I'd think extremely clean. Personally I think the carburetors should have been disassembled more. Float valve removed, adjustment screws, rubber vacuum plugs. Basically anything and everything that could be taken off should be. That way anything that comes lose, can be rinsed away easily and not trapped. Still a good video for sure, thanks for posting.
Yeah, there's tons of reports online of purple power damaging aluminum. It's also quite bad for human and environmental health. While simple green is safe.
In the 80's our shop owner stuck a 1970's Mazda carb in our parts tank & hit start. He forgot all about it & the next day we came in he found that carb still soaking. "Man it looks like brand new in/out!" Happy boss! Well until he went to re-assemble it and every screw hole stripped out because the threads turned to white powder..lmao Took almost 3 months to get that brand new carb back then, special order from Japan $809. So beware of corrosive labelled products.
Back label on the Mean Green recommends not using it on aluminum. Almost went and bought some. Guess I'll stick with Dawn and Simple Green mix for aluminum. Purple Power works great on steel parts, but may etch off plating/paint if left in too long.
My understanding is that you don't want to put your hands in the water while the ultrasonic is on. It can have some pretty nasty effects. Put the parts in first, then turn it on.
I just used a dish soap pod the other day on a oily valve cover. Did it as a last resort but it worked pretty good....the heat i think is the most important part. If its not hot or hot enough to begin with, it wont work as well...ultrasonic cleaners work ok but its not perfect by any means.
A good way to get in the ports is with a tube connected to a suction tube like for cows and immerse it in the solution and push it in the small pets to get all the air out the passage ways. Great video would like to see Simple Green Aircraft against them..
Be careful putting your hands in the machine when it is running. The ultrasonic waves will damage your connective tissue and nerves in your hands after repeated exposure.
The problem is many cleaners stain or darken Aluminum parts, so far the best product I've used is the industrial cleaner from Harbor Freight which cleans great & doesn't effect the color of the Aluminum parts.
I've noticed that with Purple Power some carbs will react to it like that where they get really dark in color but I've had some carbs come out so clean they look brand new. It says on the back of the bottle to test some of the PP on the metal before using but in the end I switched to Simple Green reason being is it doesn't seem to react with aluminum and it's biodegradable unlike mean green.
When seen you had purple power and made no comments prior to using it I knew exactly what was going to happen.. it can be used to clean aluminum for 15 minute spurts but not with sonic cleaner its like turbo charging the stuff.. makes everything dull gray .. you can make all 3 carbs look identical blast them with soda like you are snadblasting but with soda it will not hurt anything and any residue left over goes away with water.. if it was a timing cover or intake you can bead blast it but you have to make sure you get every microscopic material or it will get into engine.. hence do not do anything that can trap material you cannot clean out .. over head cam heads with oil galleys .. definite no no for bead blasting
I ran 100% Simple Green Pro HD on a spare junk carburetor without discoloration or other issues at 150 degrees F for 30 minutes. Next time I'll dilute but it's worth an honorable mention.
Have you tried L. A's Totally Awesome cleaner?? I work on small gas engines and have ordered the same ultrasonic cleaner, I appreciate the info on cleaners. Thanks
Stuff works great! I started usi ng it in jr high on my shoes lol thank you dollar store! They always have bottles of it and gallon refills. I love that cleaner! We just call it Awesome lol Because it is awesome.
Purple power works great you simply did not water it down enough .. your mix ratio was to high I clean aluminum all the time in 100% straight purple power but only leave it submerged for 30 minutes tops but you also gotta realize using it with hot temps increses its strength by a large amount coupled with sonic cleaning and its even more effective so you would need to water it down. This would also mean its cheaper to use . if you a aluminum cylinder head overnight in 100% purple power you might need to scrap it.
I have /am using All those same Degreasers .. cleaning my engine parts. Also Bought a Heated Ultrasonic Gizmo to use. I promptly sent it back for a Refund It didn't do enough to justify it's Price.. Don't believe what Utube videos claim :-)
Question now is, how to remove the hard grey coating the purple power left on the body? I have had that problem and it has left a super hard coating on the carb body. I had run out of the proper cleaner and tried the purple power, big mistake.
@@AKproXR Same with one I did. It pretty much anodized the carb body because of the combination of the sonic machine temperature making the corrosiveness of purple power stronger. Have cleaned many carbs in the sonic but never again purple power.
The ultrasonic won't damage the floats. If you're using a caustic chemical in the ultrasonic cleaner (like Chem-dip) then keep the floats away from it. If you're using something like Simple Green or PineSol, you'll be fine.
well if you read the safety sheet and the label of purple power you'd know it shouldn't be used on aluminum the way you used it , it has acid in it it's a very mild acid but still able to tarnish aluminum especially when left on
Pine sol is the shit when dealing with clogged jets. But spray everything down with brake clean and finish it off with pb blaster or WD-40 afterwards to prevent seizing
I WAS TOLD IF THERE IS BRASS PARTS ALONG WITH THE ALUMINUM IT WILL TURN THE ALUMINUM BLACK, DID THIS TO AN AFB CARB WITH BRASS SEATS AND TURNED IT BLACK. CALLED A GUY ABOUT IT, HE WAS RIGHT!
@@supposedlycollectable4220 the detergent can cause skin irritation and the ultrasonic action can cause mild discomfort; that’s it as far as risk is concerned.
@@AKproXR I just plan on using the proper cleaner for the proper material. Stainless suppressors will be fine in purple power, aluminum will have to use a safer solvent. If you are familiar with "The Dip" a mixture of vinegar and peroxide, it too isnt safe for aluminum or brass.
Well, I for one thought it was entertaining. These are useless carb that I was going to throw away anyways. Care to continue to debate over me ruining carb that was bound of the dump regardless?
@@AKproXR No debate at all, just that by reading the label, you would have had a good warning as to what affect it would have, best that you did use junk parts. But I don't think the cleaner should be critiqued for doing exactly what the label said it would.
I was told from mechanic with the shakes. He says don’t let sulvents and paints enter your pours. And seeing car shows with lots of oxygen tanks on old painters backs. I will be carfull lolz. Young people don’t care till they old lolz.??
Intensity of ultrasonic agitation waves within single-emitter cleaning tanks is wildly variable. So naturally, short-term cleaning within those tanks is also extremely dependent on where within those tanks users place objects to be cleaned compared to the ultrasonic emitter's location. For that reason, you, or anyone intending to replicate such comparisons, should try your damnest to hold all other factors constant other than compared cleaning solution. Not only start with the same temperature water (use a thermometer) but also photograph locations of your first batch of nearly identical parts being cleaned and when you load test parts for each following comparison test, duplicate their original orientation and position within the tank so you are not unintentionally creating some huge advantage for one test as related to some most conspicuously difficult to clean areas compared against other tested products. Nice first effort, but be as careful as you can to KEEP ALL FACTORS EQUAL EXCEPT YOUR SINGLE INTENDED TEST VARIABLE, which in this case was the cleaning product and hopefully dilution factor. If you are going to discuss cost per cleaning, diluting one product to 20% (1:5 ratio), do the same for all others unless you also apply each multiplier when computing cost per actual cleaner volume. On balance, this was an interesting demonstration.
Great Video - When you first start up, fill up the water with the detergent and run the ultrasonic for 10mins to degas the detergent solution. Once this is done the ultrasonic will work more efficiently to clean you carburettor parts.
I'm a brewer. Professional, not a homebrew guy that thinks he knows what he's talking about.
I honestly didnt consider this. But it makes sense. High vibrations, lots of cavitation... without messing with surface area of the air/oxygen exposed area.
Thank you for mentioning this. Even if it's not accurate, I'm gonna let water sit for a while, then let one sample go untreated, one sample go for 10 mins in the ultrasonic, then run it through the company's DO (dissolved oxygen) meter.
Even if it isnt true (I dont know), it will be great to experiment on and give legitimate results to myself and my motorcycle carb cleaning buddies.
I started using Mean Green several years ago after using Purple Power. The Mean Green is cheaper and it does a better job. You can also save on cleaner by placing parts in a zip lock bag with a small amount of cleaner and just use water in the ultrasonic tub.
I do that too, also makes clean-up a snap. Just pour out the tub, no need to even rinse. I also cut cleaners a bit, but only use distilled or deionized water - more power than hard tap water.
At what temp though?
The purple has a hydroxide component, similar to drano or lye. It reacts with aluminum which is the black compound and also forms hydrogen gas. That's most likely what made the bubbles. Be careful when trapping it with the lid.
Nice video. I use simple green too. In fact yesterday i cleaned the engine bay on my 700 xc sp with it. Cleaning my sleds for summer storage. I love simple green. Thanks...
Nice vid! I have used purple power, and I have used soapy water. The temp makes a huge difference for cleaning anything oily and greasy, but if you're doing anything made of zinc or aluminum, the higher temps will cause reactions that leading to an ugly surface finish. I noticed this when cleaning up some older cast alum parts.
Glad I found your video man I was about to clean my xv700 carbs with it after my carb cleaner failed me lol
Simple Green has a product called Pro HD that has the same components as their Aircraft & Precision cleaner that is stated to be safe for aluminum.
Brilliant !! I wish other UA-cam vid makers applied the simple logic ! Thanks for this.
Saved me some headache I’ve got a jug of Purple Power sitting next to my new ultrasonic cleaner and was going to clean the carbs on my FZ1. Glad I found your video, back to the Autozone it goes.
You need a basket that hooks over the sides. Placing parts directly on the floor of the tank will shorten the life of the transducers. The heavier the parts the shorter the transducer life. Ask me how I know this to be true. :-) Thanks for taking the time to try the different cleaners. I use mine mostly for gun parts and records, I love it.
Cleaner is to small for larger parts with the basket. I use the basket when I can.
@@AKproXR I understand your position, I did the same thing with my 1st ultrasonic cleaner. I'm just sharing with you the fact that after mine stopped working I searched the web far and wide for a fix. What I found was a lot of people with different brands and sizes of cleaners, which didn't last very long (operational time not ownership time), who seemed to share one common trait, placing items directly on the floor of the cleaner. I noticed your basket doesn't have handles that allow it to be hung from the sides, forcing you to set it on the floor of the tub. You can easily make handles out of wire coat hangers that would allow you to hang the basket off the sides, prolonging the life of the machine. Bottom line, everything has limitations. Operate that thing outside of it's limits and it will fail. All the best.
Nice video on comparing the different cleaners and the effectiveness of the Ultra Sonic cleaning unit. The directions for Purple Power say to test on small area of item to be cleaned "especially on aluminum". It does also have the "Corrosive" symbol on the label as well. Oh well, live and learn. The carb is still usable I'm sure and I'd think extremely clean. Personally I think the carburetors should have been disassembled more. Float valve removed, adjustment screws, rubber vacuum plugs. Basically anything and everything that could be taken off should be. That way anything that comes lose, can be rinsed away easily and not trapped. Still a good video for sure, thanks for posting.
Yeah, there's tons of reports online of purple power damaging aluminum.
It's also quite bad for human and environmental health. While simple green is safe.
In the 80's our shop owner stuck a 1970's Mazda carb in our parts tank & hit start.
He forgot all about it & the next day we came in he found that carb still soaking. "Man it looks like brand new in/out!" Happy boss!
Well until he went to re-assemble it and every screw hole stripped out because the threads turned to white powder..lmao
Took almost 3 months to get that brand new carb back then, special order from Japan $809. So beware of corrosive labelled products.
i use dawn dish soap and some lemi shine dishwasher cleaner
Back label on the Mean Green recommends not using it on aluminum. Almost went and bought some. Guess I'll stick with Dawn and Simple Green mix for aluminum. Purple Power works great on steel parts, but may etch off plating/paint if left in too long.
My understanding is that you don't want to put your hands in the water while the ultrasonic is on. It can have some pretty nasty effects. Put the parts in first, then turn it on.
Eh, I’m not worried about it. I rarely ever use this thing anyways.
@@AKproXR You will when you get early arthritis in the knuckles.
I just used a dish soap pod the other day on a oily valve cover. Did it as a last resort but it worked pretty good....the heat i think is the most important part. If its not hot or hot enough to begin with, it wont work as well...ultrasonic cleaners work ok but its not perfect by any means.
Good vid, just purchased a Vevor Ultrasonic cleaner and a gallon of Simple Green Automotive strength cleaner..
Simple green D or simple green aircraft are safe for use on aluminum.
Cool comparative test. You get the most out of sonic cleaner if you fill up to the fill line.
Preheat your water. Out of tap or on the stove👍
Mean Green is slightly alkaline/caustic. Like acid (vinegar), it eats metal. So you get a shine.
A good way to get in the ports is with a tube connected to a suction tube like for cows and immerse it in the solution and push it in the small pets to get all the air out the passage ways. Great video would like to see Simple Green Aircraft against them..
What type of ultra sonic cleaner did u buy.. I’m thinking about getting a different one…
Purple power etches the aluminum
Are those aluminum carbs? BTW, dawn is supposed to work great the strong stuff.
Be careful putting your hands in the machine when it is running. The ultrasonic waves will damage your connective tissue and nerves in your hands after repeated exposure.
The problem is many cleaners stain or darken Aluminum parts, so far the best product I've used is the industrial cleaner from Harbor Freight which cleans great & doesn't effect the color of the Aluminum parts.
what's the name of it?
Yeah...whats the name?
How many liters was this ultrasonic?
I've noticed that with Purple Power some carbs will react to it like that where they get really dark in color but I've had some carbs come out so clean they look brand new. It says on the back of the bottle to test some of the PP on the metal before using but in the end I switched to Simple Green reason being is it doesn't seem to react with aluminum and it's biodegradable unlike mean green.
SG will actually etch aluminum if left on too long. No issue when rinsing right away but it was even be used to prep alu for paint so be careful.
Be sure to RINSE the parts immediately after using Simple Green. It is hard on aluminum and should be diluted for use when used on aluminum
What size is that cleaner
Jewlery cleaner work Awsome on brass jets
Good information in the comment section. I'm trying my ultrasonic cleaner for the first time and maaaaan it's rough on the ears.
When seen you had purple power and made no comments prior to using it I knew exactly what was going to happen.. it can be used to clean aluminum for 15 minute spurts but not with sonic cleaner its like turbo charging the stuff.. makes everything dull gray .. you can make all 3 carbs look identical blast them with soda like you are snadblasting but with soda it will not hurt anything and any residue left over goes away with water.. if it was a timing cover or intake you can bead blast it but you have to make sure you get every microscopic material or it will get into engine.. hence do not do anything that can trap material you cannot clean out .. over head cam heads with oil galleys .. definite no no for bead blasting
Good vid
The whole ultrasonic cleaner concept is new to me would this work on like cleaning the cylinders heads and head caps?
It would, provided you had one large enough. Mines a bit small for cylinders.
@@AKproXR will it take all the surface grime off without scrubbing any of it? Or would scrubbing it yield a better result?
@@AKproXR is yours a 6L or 3L
Joe Cox 6L
You need to soda blast those carbs them put them in the ultrasonic cleaner
Which one is best for cleaning gun parts?
I ran 100% Simple Green Pro HD on a spare junk carburetor without discoloration or other issues at 150 degrees F for 30 minutes. Next time I'll dilute but it's worth an honorable mention.
Have you tried L. A's Totally Awesome cleaner?? I work on small gas engines and have ordered the same ultrasonic cleaner, I appreciate the info on cleaners. Thanks
Did you end up using LAs totally awesome? How did it do if so
Stuff works great! I started usi ng it in jr high on my shoes lol thank you dollar store! They always have bottles of it and gallon refills. I love that cleaner! We just call it Awesome lol Because it is awesome.
How you disposing the cleaners from the Ultrasonic Cleaner?
pour them on the ground.
Purple power works great you simply did not water it down enough .. your mix ratio was to high I clean aluminum all the time in 100% straight purple power but only leave it submerged for 30 minutes tops but you also gotta realize using it with hot temps increses its strength by a large amount coupled with sonic cleaning and its even more effective so you would need to water it down. This would also mean its cheaper to use . if you a aluminum cylinder head overnight in 100% purple power you might need to scrap it.
Best results I got out of my sonic cleaner is soda blast them first the the ultra sonic cleaner
I have /am using All those same Degreasers .. cleaning my engine parts. Also Bought a Heated Ultrasonic Gizmo to use.
I promptly sent it back for a Refund It didn't do enough to justify it's Price..
Don't believe what Utube videos claim :-)
Good comparison, simple green did look better to me.
Can a four barrel carburetor fit in a 6L unit or would I need a larger unit ?
Need a larger one. I wish I would of got a bigger one.
I got a 15l one that fits 4 carbs at a time
My Yamaha royal star carbs 4x fit good
How did you fix the blackened carb from purple power?
I didn’t. These were carbs I didn’t need, used purely for test purposes.
@@AKproXR fuck lol I made the mistake
Question now is, how to remove the hard grey coating the purple power left on the body? I have had that problem and it has left a super hard coating on the carb body. I had run out of the proper cleaner and tried the purple power, big mistake.
I threw that carb away. Didn’t bother try saving it, every nook crank and crevasse had that in it.
@@AKproXR Same with one I did. It pretty much anodized the carb body because of the combination of the sonic machine temperature making the corrosiveness of purple power stronger. Have cleaned many carbs in the sonic but never again purple power.
I don't think throwing it away was necessary, probably could have just used a brillo pad for the outside. No one would see the inside anyway
Try distilled vinegar.
Purple power destroys aluminum. You probably cooked the outer layer.
Doesn't that damage the floats are you putting the whole thing in there?
The ultrasonic won't damage the floats. If you're using a caustic chemical in the ultrasonic cleaner (like Chem-dip) then keep the floats away from it. If you're using something like Simple Green or PineSol, you'll be fine.
Yes. Loose metal on metal does cause damage but I doubt this can be seen if you only do this once per 30 years
well if you read the safety sheet and the label
of purple
power you'd know it shouldn't be used on aluminum the way you used it , it has acid in it it's a very mild acid but still able
to tarnish aluminum especially when left on
Good job for reading. This was a simple test on products I see people trying to use.
thanks i always read my labels before using any solvent you can use purple power successfully if you use it correctly
Have u tried pine sol?
Pine sol is the shit when dealing with clogged jets. But spray everything down with brake clean and finish it off with pb blaster or WD-40 afterwards to prevent seizing
What size is your ultrasonic cleaner?
6L, I wish I’d got a larger one.
Which ever one costs less between the two...
This unit doesn't heat unless the ultrasonic timer is running. Ask me how I know.
Mine doesn’t heat at all anymore. 🤣
@@AKproXR It is probably more efficient to heat the water on your cookstove anyway.
50 degrees celsius is 122 degrees fahrenheit
Don't put your hands in the solution when it's running apparently can be very bad for your hands joints to do with sonic waves
I use maple syrup..
I do not recommend using purple power for anything aluminum. Purple power destroys aluminum
but it cleans it nicely
@@godsdozer use superclean, it's aluminum safe
Have you or anyone tried using Muric acid?
I have. Quick way to ruin a carb if you don’t know exactly what your doing.
@@AKproXR I've had good results on carburators wondering what it would do to the ultrasonic unit. Thank you
I WAS TOLD IF THERE IS BRASS PARTS ALONG WITH THE ALUMINUM IT WILL TURN THE ALUMINUM BLACK, DID THIS TO AN AFB CARB WITH BRASS SEATS AND TURNED IT BLACK. CALLED A GUY ABOUT IT, HE WAS RIGHT!
Mean green is a little cleaner on the inside then the simple green
I’m pretty happy with the mean green, it’s cheap to buy also.
AKproXR which one are you gonna stuck with simple green or mean green??
@@AKproXR where do you get it ? Auto zone have it
Way Cool
shouldn't you put the lid on during this process? Simple Green looks good and do does Mean Green. Purple Power is icky.
I do.
Nice vid, but do NOT put your hands into it while the ultrasonic is on. Even short exposures can lead to irreversible damage to bone and tendons.
Good to know I have never heard this before
@@supposedlycollectable4220 the detergent can cause skin irritation and the ultrasonic action can cause mild discomfort; that’s it as far as risk is concerned.
Say what. !! I was using at nail salon to clean dirty nails . But they complain about a rash. We’ll be in portarivo for awhile by now!! ???
Dipping your hands for 15 seconds. Will keep mosquitoes, tigers and bear away for 6 months. After 6 months. Just repeat
😢😢
Purple power was right a corrosive solvent type
the liquid level is way to low, Read the instructions
After watching the complete video, next thing is to rebuild all three carbs and see how all three perform compared to each other on the same engine
Unfortunately, these were carbs from a sled I parted out. I no longer have an engine that these carbs were meant to be used on
I thought the mean green did better than the simple green
mean green did less discoloration.
🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 try Lysol toilet 🚽 bowl cleaner! Or ZEP the orange detergent
I just used purple power cause I got impatient and shoot man did the same thing to mine
BeardedCatGuitar Plus damn! It’s the only cleaner I’ve tried that has done that so far.
I’m going to buy some mean green next
I’ll be throwing it up on my channel soon. just waiting for two carb videos to upload. Cleaned with gum out I think it was. Failed
Manual specifies to use simple green on carburetor ! No wonder it worked the best :)
Meangreen
I say the mean green
Purple power warns you it can harm aluminum, the carb cleaned in it has been eroded, not a good test, should have used steel or stainless material.
Feel free to do your own test. All sled carbs are aluminum.
@@AKproXR I just plan on using the proper cleaner for the proper material.
Stainless suppressors will be fine in purple power, aluminum will have to use a safer solvent.
If you are familiar with "The Dip" a mixture of vinegar and peroxide, it too isnt safe for aluminum or brass.
Well, I for one thought it was entertaining. These are useless carb that I was going to throw away anyways.
Care to continue to debate over me ruining carb that was bound of the dump regardless?
@@AKproXR No debate at all, just that by reading the label, you would have had a good warning as to what affect it would have, best that you did use junk parts.
But I don't think the cleaner should be critiqued for doing exactly what the label said it would.
Then it wouldn’t have been a good test on which cleaner works best for carbs.
Please keep your fingers out of solution with the machine on. Not good for bone marrow in fingers
I work with a lot worse things then some cleaners. Personally not to worried. Thanks for your concern though!
I was told from mechanic with the shakes. He says don’t let sulvents and paints enter your pours. And seeing car shows with lots of oxygen tanks on old painters backs. I will be carfull lolz. Young people don’t care till they old lolz.??
Mean green is cleaner. 💪
And this is why I hate purple power lol
I’m goin simple green
Simple green
Was probably clean at 2-5min. Lol when revealed I was like oh Nooo
Intensity of ultrasonic agitation waves within single-emitter cleaning tanks is wildly variable. So naturally, short-term cleaning within those tanks is also extremely dependent on where within those tanks users place objects to be cleaned compared to the ultrasonic emitter's location. For that reason, you, or anyone intending to replicate such comparisons, should try your damnest to hold all other factors constant other than compared cleaning solution. Not only start with the same temperature water (use a thermometer) but also photograph locations of your first batch of nearly identical parts being cleaned and when you load test parts for each following comparison test, duplicate their original orientation and position within the tank so you are not unintentionally creating some huge advantage for one test as related to some most conspicuously difficult to clean areas compared against other tested products. Nice first effort, but be as careful as you can to KEEP ALL FACTORS EQUAL EXCEPT YOUR SINGLE INTENDED TEST VARIABLE, which in this case was the cleaning product and hopefully dilution factor. If you are going to discuss cost per cleaning, diluting one product to 20% (1:5 ratio), do the same for all others unless you also apply each multiplier when computing cost per actual cleaner volume. On balance, this was an interesting demonstration.