Thanks, you covered some of the questions I have been having. Wasn't sure for my little shop the best way but you showed that I was on the right track with PVC and a 'shop-vac' system. Enjoyed the video.
finally someone knowledgeable, explains it well, and includes all info hes gathered along the way, have been jumping between videos until i found yours, well done sir well done
I'm not even done watching and had to comment. This is by far the best dust collection video I have seen. Watched a lot of them because my dust collecting system was clogging and not working well. Now I know how to make it better, Great job! Thanks for posting. Liked and subscribed.
I solved this a couple of decades ago by going with short lengths of 2.5" flex hose from every single machine that I plug directly into the shop vac. No blast gates, now lines to run on the wall and no hoses on the floor to trip over. The shop vac is easy to move around since the hoses are attached to the tools rather than going with the shop vac and with the short hoses it works like gangbusters. I've got a 30 year old Craftsman wet/dry vac that I upgraded with a Clean Stream Gortex filter that filters to 0.5 microns and it's reusable/easy to clean and you can even use it with liquids if you like but I don't. Cheers!
Great video. You broke it down in simple terms. No sharp turns like the other poster said, and if you have a 3D printer you can custom print your own connectors.
Dust collection as a weekend warrior lever like me has always been frustrating. Science always wins.Your research and presentation were great. I finally gave up on dust management and collection and I do all my dust production outside in open space but under cover. I roll my machines outside as needed. Mother nature collects it and I wear a dust collector on my face.
I get it, it's hard to justify putting the money and work into setting up a dust collection system when it's just a part time hobby. But, it sounds like you figured out a good fix.
I've been struggling to get to a good (affordable) solution for dust collection to keep from caking every single inch of my shop (and my friggin' lungs!) with fine particulates, so your vid hit perfectly. The fact that you're using some of the same equipment as I do (incl. the exact Ridgid shopvac lol) kept me here to see how YOU put it together. My shop is a 12x18 (with a 12x8 screened-in porch) loft barn, so I won't need to go 20'x20' on the piping to get to the far end of the workspace, so your solution is going to fit well for suction. Thanks for the helpful information (including the blast gate info!) and keep grinding, brother.
lol, 'your boring technical script'. After mostly failure and frustration, I finally gave in and read Bill Pentz's article on his site, maybe 6 times and took notes. We ended up in the same place. Now I have my DC and working on my 3rd Dustopper setup. Great video, and take the strap off of your Anamometer before it gets sucked in, and breaks the impeller,,,sheesh! (bought another).
The remotes for controlling devices are pretty cool and I used that for a while, but I then discovered the sockets that you can link to Apple Home (other phones are available). What that means is that I can just say ‘hey Siri turn on shop vac’. It’s sooooo cool. So I now have a load of devices / equipment attached to these: air compressor, shop vac, heater, overhead workbench lights etc.
Not a bad idea, however I'd be quite impressed if that device actually heard me over any piece of equipment running, namely a shop vac. My thought about dealing w/ losing the remote was to chain it to the wall next to where I'd most frequently need/use it. But that's just, like, my opinion. xD
On the attachment to the blast gate, heat up the pvc a bit with a torch and then press it onto the blast gate. Then you have a custom connection. Also, use hard piping from the dust separator to the shop vac. Only use flexi-duct from blast gate to the tool.
This is one of the best vids I’ve seen as you mention the machines may not be top end models so saw dust is going to come out of the machine in various places as it’s the last thing they are worried about for the amateur as it’s to keep costs down ,so no matter how good your dust vac is it isn’t going to keep dust from escaping from cheaper machines , and that is something I wouldn’t have really considered and probably going to help us from wasting unnecessary money , so great stuff 👍
i use a remote too. I store on my table saw with velcro. then when i'm working moving around the shop i keep it in my pocket. my tools are half and half. 4" and two inch. so i have to use both. a stand up and A shop vac. I like the set up for the shop vac you did. i've been dragging it around the garage. Thanks
The Charlie Hunnam clip in the middle was hilarious. Also, if you're using 2" PVC and 2 1/2" dust ports, you can take a heat gun and heat up that pvc for a few minutes til its maluable and then put it inside the 2.5" port and let it cool to harden. It makes a great fit and is super easy. I might add some tape or something if you're not going to be removing it all the time. There's lots of videos on it too to reference.
Great video buddy and just in time for me! I’m currently sitting on 3 shop vacs that I keep tripping over around the shop lol. I was thinking about a larger system but most of my equipment is for the casual diy-er so I have “small” dust collection ports. I really appreciate all the time you put into researching this topic and that you took the time to share your findings. Most importantly you’ve saved me the trouble of having to figure all this out. You’ve gained a new sub buddy! PS: My favourite part happened around the 9 minute mark. I can’t believe people are getting triggered over a little humour which I thought was completely perfect for the moment. Don’t be discouraged by these soft as butter clowns, you’ve got a good thing going with this channel. Good luck!
Those holes in the shroud below your Ryobi table saw are to allow airflow into the "box" when you have a proper dust collection system installed. If you seal all of them up, it's like placing your hand over the end of the hose - lots of noise, but not much action. To your point, this is an inexpensive saw, so it may not be properly "tuned" to your airflow. Don't just cover up all the slots and assume you improved things... Instead, try closing off portions of those slots to see where the correct "balance point" is between fully open and fully closed for YOUR dust extraction system. There's a video I saw recently where a guy built a dust collection box for his router table, and sealed it up tight as a drum. The only entry point for air was the opening around the router bit. Sounds perfect, right? But in fact, the small opening reduced the airflow to the point where airflow "stalled" and the dust collection was terrible. Opening up a hole in the box (while counter-intuitive) proved to vastly improve his dust collection by ensuring adequate airflow. Second point: You stated that the DeWalt planer (which looks like a 735 in your video?) has a "small port"... Nope - it has a 4-inch port that is reduced by that snap-on adapter to 2" so that it can be directly connected to a shop vac. If you read their recommendations, they want you to connect a HVLP system (dust collector) rather than a HPLV system (shop vac or dust extractor). And if you MUST use a shop vac, it should be directly connected to the planer with as short a length of hose as practical, to minimize suction loss and reduce the risk of clogging. If you plane wider boards (producing LOTS of wood chips), you may find that you create more wood chips than your long-run shop vac hose can carry away, resulting in a clogged system. Keep a close eye on it!
8:23 If you are going to compare the suction with and without the dust separator, your should compare the separator with a clean filter to a dirty filter without the separator, because that’s what you will have after 5 minutes of use. 😄 And that’s really the reason to use a separator - take a 15%-20% hit but (mostly) maintain that suction, versus having your suction range from 100% after you install a new filter, all the way down to “is this thing even on.”
Yes, this!!! Additionally, re the thinking behind this test, it helps to understand that every extra thing between the vacuum’s blades and the open end of the hose impedes air flow. Every inch/mm of pipe, every bend, everything in the path works against air speed (except for Bernoulli thingies). So, of course removing the dust separator results in faster air speed. But that isn’t the real need. As @spaaarky21 indicated, the real concern to be tested is effectiveness. A few moments of measuring airspeed doesn’t tell us anything about that. In addition to @spaaarky21’s suggestion, I also recommend doing air quality tests to see if/how much the dust separator helps. If all you care about is faster air speed, pipe the vacuum’s output straight outside. No bags, no traps.
I go with adage-if has two inch then connect a two inch and if has 4 inch then hook a 4 inch. I use a Seperator (dust deputy) and connect a shop vac to it. The shop vac and has bag and of course a filter. Good Info. My shop is a garage.
Fully agree any dust collection is better than none. And keeping the use of crinkle pipe to a minimum. With the mitre saw a bit of sealing up around the port and making a larger dust shoe really helps as well.
And yes you definitely need 45s instead of 90s. Also on your main line where all the blast gates are, it is even better to use Y shapes. Good luck! Give us a review in another few months
I'm an HVAC guy. Restriction from turns is unavoidable, I agree with "y" connections and 45's. A "long radius " 90 is also ok, don't use short radius 90's, the sharp turn kills the flow. Yes I built my own system with 2" pvc through a home made cyclone separator on a garbage can then to a 6 hp shop vac. Works great, only thing it won't keep up with is my Dewalt planner (same one as in the video).
@@rightsidedownstudio It's an old, discontinued, central vac unit that was being thrown away by a customer at my former job. It sucks so well that the chips and shavings fail to fall into the drum and instead head right into the unit and fill the bag. I have a slice valve off to the side of the main line into the vac to reduce the volume going into the drum. Because, a 55g drum plus shop vac, doesn't work.
I have 2 vacuums one just on my table saw with a separator. 2nd connected to the same Amazon grey hose you have that I just swing on a boom arm to each tool as I go to them. The vac hose has an extension cord attached to it to plug the tool I’m using into and an auto on switch turns on the vacuum when I start the tool. Super easy to set up and works quite well. No blast gates no pipes running all over the wall. Now I just need to make some sound deadening boxes over the vacuums and my air compressor. There’s always another shop project.
This was tremendous- good detail but very very practical. Thanks so much for putting all the effort into this work! Just subscribed- relative newbie woodworker.
Hi love the vid also speaking of dust collection my school has a industrial dust collection system with 12in pipe you can some how suck up a compact sheet Sander some one a year per did that also don't touch a jointer cuter he'd when spinning some one fond the out the hard way and some one got there hand stuck under a board going through the wide belt sander on the Timesaver
Great video. Thank you. Consider cleaning around the gaps in your Ryobi machines and duct taping them. Yes, it's a bit bodgy, but might claw back some system efficiency on those tools.
A relative Luddite here, but do you think adding another shopvac to the network would do it? Perhaps you can segment your network with the blast gates and operate the two either in unison or separately with the blast gate on for isolation?
I really don't know honestly. I have two vacuums now so I will hook them both up and run some test. Give me a few days and I'll have an answer for you.
@@shankarh6915 So I just finished testing a second vac to the system and it doubled the flow! The first test was both vacs sitting next to each other and running at the same time and it went from 15 meters per second to 30. I also tested it with a dust separator and it had the same results and one vac sitting 10ft away from the other with the same results. So adding a second vac GREATLY increases suction. The video will come out in a few weeks.
Awesome! Expected , I think this is a reasonable / affordable solution for a small shop with 2-2.5” hoses. I think the big insight I had from video was how quickly the big high volume systems become ineffective with smaller hoses - I am thinking Bernoulli’s principle is at play here.. it’s been a while since I studied that in physics 😊
Nice vid. But one thing that got left out of the calculation: a direct connection to the shop vac might beat the cyclone when the filter is completely unclogged. But if you’re sucking dust directly onto your filter, it’s going to clog up quickly and reduce airflow. I’d love to see that competition repeated after a few big projects without the cyclone.
You're absolutely right! after about 4 days there was a noticeable decrease in suction due to the filter clogging. I ended up putting the cyclone back on to save the filter. I'm working on another video that's testing that's testing everyone's comments and I think I may have found a way to completely eliminate suction reduction from the cyclone. I'm still working on it so stayed tuned.
I was about to say the same thing. 90° elbows are going to cause you issues. Another thing to do, there two types schedule 40 pvc. Thick wall and thin wall. If you get thin wall schedule 40 you won't have to shave the inside of PVC to make it fit. Buy a section schedule 40 thin wall and use it to cut collars for all your connection points.
It’s not about getting a clog, it’s about airflow. You are clearly smart enough to use an airflow meter to scientifically test pressure loss, you are also smart enough to realize you may have killed most of your hard piping gains by adding choke points for airflow, and yes, possibly a “clog”.
It's not about clogging. It's about flow. Kinda odd how you can write a 20 page script with physics formulas- pull out an airflow meter- yet you end up with such gaps...your system is trash compared to mine, and I didn't use physics or test equipment. Remember to keep it simple, stupid. @@rightsidedownstudio
Large radius street elbows like the Dustopper elbow are better than two 45-degree elbows. They have very little flow restriction and I’ve never seen one clog up yet.
Great video thanks. One thought on you rationale to ditch the dust collector. You presented the trade-off of dust filters vs added suction. There is a time element in there, with the duct collector you always get the same suction over time, while I don't know the answer, my experiences is the filter becomes less effective the more it files up with fine dust, so it degrades over time. The question is how often and for what duration does it drop below the dust collector option? A follow up showing suction capacity just before and after you change your filter compared with the duct collector.
I completely agree with you on the time element. The first project I did after I took the dust collector off the filter only lasted around 2 hrs. before it clogged. I ended up modifying the Dustopper and got it down to almost zero loss in suction with it attached. Here's the modification ua-cam.com/video/1z0HZRjXp3I/v-deo.html
Thank you for a comprehensive educational video. First time I listened to a wood worker talk about roughness coefficient in smooth vs. rough piping. I want to return to wood working including wood turning i had to quit because of the dust issue. Anyway, if you were turning wood how would you suggest capturing the shavings, more importantly the fine dust. I would really appreciate your suggestions. You got me as a continual subscriber! ❤ Again THANK YOU!
I have a small cheap 8” x 12” wood lathe and this set up works really well. I have this dust hood amzn.to/498Wyde connected to the shop vac hose and I have the hose and hood taped to a Gooseneck flexible arm amzn.to/3Ok7cWP so I can move the hood to where ever I need it. It catches almost all of the shavings and dust if I have the hood in the right place. For the fine dust I made this video ua-cam.com/video/bzn1N3Yu280/v-deo.html on setting up a cheap effective extra fine air filter. I love it and wish I made it sooner, or if you’re in a pinch a filter taped to the back of a fan works as well.
I can't remember the UA-cam channel, it's been a while but they tested flex hose vs smooth metal piping vs pvc and found that they were all so close to each other in cfm that the difference was negligible. It's similar to the smooth vs ribbed intake debate for vehicles, and yes on paper, a smooth intake delivers slightly better performance but in real world practicality, you'll never notice the difference.
I already have one of those remote power switches - a real game changer. However, I just bought more crinkly hose - doh. Looks like I need to start over😢
you should test the dust collector using PVC pipes, otherwise its inclear if the loss caused by the cyclon or the extra flexible pipe. also worth to notice, without the cyclone the filter will be clogged and you lose much more suction quickly. you could use a heatgun to make those fittings a littble bit bigger os smaller, that provides thight fit.
Even better than the remotes are these specialized power bar type outlets that you plug your tool and your vacuum system into: when the tool turns on, it automatically powers on the vacuum.
YES! I've been trying to figure out how to make it work for my shop. The only ones I can find have one plug for the vacuum and two plugs for equipment. I want one that has at least 4 plugs for equipment but I don't think they make anything like that or at least I cant find it.
@@rightsidedownstudio you can just run a power bar type expander from them, any power going downstream through that circuit will activate the vacuum :)
Good video. It's probably the limited view I have, but the hose you have at the end of your run looks quite a bit longer than you'd need, and every one of those loops is subtracting from your airflow. Maybe see how much you every would need and shorten the hose to that length? Anyway, thanks again for the info.
The hose is pretty long but it comes in handy when I clean the floor and walk way out of my shop. I did think about cutting it shorter and adding a quick connect, that way I can add a longer hose when needed but keep the shorter one for better suction on tools.
Another option to reduce losses over long runs is to simply buy a second vacuum. For example, having a smaller vac (aka cheaper) dedicated to the boom suction might be better than running complicated plumbing.
@@rightsidedownstudio nice. I'm struggling to work out how to arrange dust collection in my "small shop" (6m x 3.6m). My hypothesis is that if you have a boom, that should be fed by the "trunk" of the Christmas Tree (straight vertical run up from the dust collector to the boom hinge).
$30 PVC (2 10’ sections), $34 PVC joints (4 90’, 3 three ways, 5 couplings, 1 DWV Flex coupling) 5 blast gates $18 each $8 wall brackets $38 for new hose the swing arm was made out of scrap wood and a old hinge. So total was right around $200. The blast gates are the most expensive part but also the most important. My last set up with all the flex hose and plastic blast gates cost $150 and was complete garbage.
Gently and evenly heat the end of a coupler with a torch and while it is soft press it over the blast gate. THis will create a perfect and tight fitting.
Great question with perfect timing! My shop vac just died so I went to Home Depot to get a new one and couldn't decide which one was the best so I bought one of each and I'm working on a video now to see which is the best for dust collection in a shop. I will hopefully have the video up in 2 weeks.
I just finished testing a bunch of vacuums and the best is the 14 gallon 6 peak hp NXT wet/dry RIGID. It has great suction, and is quiet. www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-14-Gallon-6-0-Peak-HP-NXT-Wet-Dry-Shop-Vacuum-with-Fine-Dust-Filter-Locking-Hose-and-Accessories-HD1400/304795071?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&pla&mtc=SHOPPING-BF-CDP-GGL-D25S-025_014_WET_DRY_VACS-NA-Multi-NA-PMAX-NA-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NA-WetDryVacs&cm_mmc=SHOPPING-BF-CDP-GGL-D25S-025_014_WET_DRY_VACS-NA-Multi-NA-PMAX-NA-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NA-WetDryVacs-71700000117332056--&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAoeGuBhCBARIsAGfKY7wa5UCUd-S3ZQM--So8mdgnmBgSH9tFHG9p_Cq2eZQDiVBmvsETiXUaAp8gEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
I used 40mm pipe on my collection system and have no loss in suction I also used swept 90 not straight 90 And where you couldn't get the pipe close to the wall to 45° would have sorted that problem out Did with mine
That's exactly what happened to me after about 2 hours of sanding. I ended up changing some things around and fixing the Dust stopper in this video ua-cam.com/video/1z0HZRjXp3I/v-deo.html
$30 PVC (2 10’ sections), $34 PVC joints (4 90’, 3 three ways, 5 couplings, 1 DWV Flex coupling) 5 blast gates $18 each $8 wall brackets $38 for new hose the swing arm was made out of scrap wood and a old hinge. So total was right around $200. The blast gates are the most expensive part but also the most important. My last set up with all the flex hose and plastic blast gates cost $150 and was complete garbage.
Thanks for your fast and detailed response. Seems like a reasonable price range to get control over dust! Also-Remote controlled shop-vac-pure genius!! Maybe use it to scare trick or treaters too
It should work. I just finished shooting a shop vac video where I explain if you're using a dust separator all you need is a motor because your dust separator is holding all of the dust. So, you would be setting up exactly that. You would need to set it up like you're setting up a LPHV system because a normal shop vac RMP's are around 20k-30k creating the High Pressure and a furnace blower is 1200-1500 rpm which is much closer to a Low Pressure system but you'll be moving a lot of volume, probably around 900-1100 cfm. You'll want to focus on larger piping with reductions as close to the equipment as possible to allow that volume room to flow. The only thing I would be nervous about is if your dust separator fills up the dust will flow right into the motor and it might cause some damage.
@@rightsidedownstudio i would put a screen and furnace filter between the separator and the blower to avoid the dust entering the motor. thanks for the comment on the reduction being close to the equipment. I didn't think of that part. I would also include a floor sweep in the collection system.
May I address that you said your planer has a "small hole" when really it just has a reducer fitting on it? I have the same brand planer but a model down (734), and it has a 4" output. How does you system handle collection through the adaptor? Thats the only tool I have with that big of a port, and I want to use a 2 or 2.5" system so it fits everything else I have.
I should have addressed it better. Like you my entire system runs on a 2" hose or pipes so I kept the adapter on the planner making it a small hole. I think it works fine, I've never had a problem with it. It's never clogged up or acted like it was struggling.
I've always wondered, if you have to manualy close and open all those gates, why not just make a quick connect to separate straight lines. I am no expert by any means but I would think straight airflow is always better then all those bends and double or triple joints. What do you think?
I'm not sure I understand what you mean. You are right straight airflow is better but I'm not sure what you mean with quick connect and separate straight lines. can you elaborate, maybe I can try it out.
@@rightsidedownstudio Yeah quick connect might have been confusing. Let's say there are 2 pipes on the wall. One going left to one mashine and one going right to another, both open in the middle. You simply put your dust collector's hose onto the one you are going to use. In principle they would act as just an extention of the hose but made with smooth piping.
@@goatman86 Ohh ok I gotcha, so there's a lot of people who do that. The most common connect is this magnetic quick connect amzn.to/4c3t02J I've seen people have one hose to a dust collector and just drag the hose to whatever machine they were using and snap it on or use it exactly like you mentioned. I thought about trying to just to demonstrate alternative ways to set up dust collection, but I just decided to go with the traditional way with blast gates. To your point of airflow around corners I did a ton testing in this video ua-cam.com/video/1z0HZRjXp3I/v-deo.html if you just jump to 13:17 I do the corner air flow test. Admittingly that’s just air with no saw dust. I’m sure with a lot of saw dust it would change the airflow, but I have no idea how to test that yet. You do have a great idea and if you have all the blast gates in the same spot as I do there’s really no reason you couldn’t set it up like you mentioned, it would actually probably look cleaner and be more efficient because you wouldn’t have tiny vacuum leaks from all the connections.
Since you decided not to go with the dust collector bucket in favor of keeping your pressure high - add a pool sock on your filter - it'll preserve the life of your filter and makes it easy to clean up.
I did see that Idea a few other places and I was about to do it but i decided to do a video on why was the suction so bad with the dust stopper. I did come up with a way to fix it and keep the dust stopper, I'm also testing do bucket sizes make a difference and a few other things people commented on. I'm working on it now so it should be out in a week or two.
@@rightsidedownstudio cool. Just so you know. I use the cyclone to separate the dust along with the pool sock on the filter as i really never want to replace another filter on my shop vac again. Lol
I have a small shop basic equipment ( hobbyist) I have one of those central machinery 2hp systems with the motor mounted overhead and shooting out of the back of my shop. SHould I stay with 4 inch piped around reduced down to the size i need at the equipment or should i maybe go 2 " from the top piped to the equipment ?
I actually just talked to someone about this. He tested using 2" right from the motor all the way to the equipment and then tested using 4" all the way and adding a reducer right at the machine. He said he had better results with using 4" all the way and reducing at the equipment. I'm not sure the exact science behind why it works better that way but if you're using a LPHV system that seems to be the best option.
hey bud thanks for the quick reply om going with round duct for cost reasons and I just might meet in the middle at 3" there's a y at the intake that goes 4 to 3 so we'll see . awesome report thanks
Cool video man. I do have a couple of suggestions though. First, 45 degree angles work best. Also, I think having the blast gates near each piece of equipment would be more efficient so you're not running back and forth each time, in conjunction with an automatic vacuum switch would work better than the remote because it turns on the vacuum as soon as the equipment turns on, and no remote to loose.
Some ball valves can be used with solid particles but most are intended for higher pressure gases, liquids, and solids with high viscosity. In general, gate valves (blast gates) would be preferred because they allow for a low vacuum high volume material to flow efficiently. I’ve never really looked for ball valves that would be large enough and able to handle solids but I would imagine the price would be more than even the best blast gate.
I see you still used some of that corrugated hose in your system... what's up with that? But, I love your setup.. I have that same Rigid vac and I have been waiting on someone showing me how to set it up as a dust collection system WITHOUT THE particle separator.... GOOD WORK
I used a little section for the movement on the miter saw because the suction port is on top of the saw so it moves back and forth. But because my shop is so narrow when I use my table saw I have to pull it out from the wall and turn it side ways to use it. So for now I can hard line it I have to use some flex hose until I can figure out where to put it so I don't have to move it around to use it.
Just a standard filter. In my other video “dust collection what really works” I explain that my filter clogged within an hour so I put the dust stopper back on, but I also show how to fix it so there’s almost no loss in suction. Along with my video “dust collection basic setup” I build a HEPA air scrubber to take care of the fine particles, probably one of the most important things in the shop. But the next time I need to buy a filter I am going to get a HEPA filter with the sock.
16 seconds into this video and i couldn't help but chuckle. The dust in the miter saw 😂. Ok, lets finish this video. Hope the rest of it has moments like this.
Great watch. I have a remote for my personal shop too. Small shop but so far i have built many things with minimal dust. The HD Dustopper works fine in a shop and saves your filter whes vacuuming the floors and quick saw setups "but" a dust collection system is prime in a shop. Nothing worst than dust. It'll get everywhere.
By the way for mine; i used 45's instead of 90°, my amigo assured me that they restrict less. My system works even better than i could of imagined. RIP Frank.
Thanks for watching! glad you liked it. In this video ua-cam.com/video/1z0HZRjXp3I/v-deo.html I put the Dustopper back on because my shop vac clogged up way to fast. I also test the difference in 45's vs 90's as far as airflow and I didn't see a difference. But, that's just for airflow, I wish I used 45's to prevent clogging. I haven't had a clog yet but as soon as I do I'll switch out to 45's.
@@rightsidedownstudioFor fine dust, you probably won't have much of an issue with the 90s... But, maybe the larger chips from your planer could start to cause an issue?
After all the research I decided I didn’t need one. The HPLV works best with the smaller dust outlets. The noise is awful though, I would love to figure out how to fix that part. I’m working on a new video right now about air filtration, I have a few interviews set up with air quality experts and Dr.’s to understand the potential health hazards and how to prevent it the easiest and most practical way. Should be done in a few weeks.
Totally get it, I thought of that too. The blast gate is about 1/16” smaller all the way around and a metal coupler would only overlap about 1/2” on both sides so it wouldn’t make a tight enough seal. I also looked for the rubber coupler but I couldn’t find any that come close to fitting. Every one suggested to heat the pvc so I tried that and it works surprisingly well. I wish I would have know that when I shot this video.
Hey I actually learned something! I think. Maybe not. Ok so I have a DeWalt Job site table saw, a HF Band saw, a HF combo belt/disk sander and need an "around-the-shop" general vac hose. They all have like a 1" to 1.5" port and the longest distance is like 15'. Should I just keep my shop vac (2" hose)? I was about to get the Harbor Freight 1HP dust collector and put a HEPA cartridge filter on it with a bag. What do you think?
I would keep the shop vac. The HF dust collector has a 4” hose port and if you hook it up to a 1”-1.5” port you would restrict the LPHV design, and it wouldn’t be very efficient. You would want to stick with the HPLV to be efficient with the small ports. But, to keep it efficient you want to stay with just one hose from your vac to whatever you’re using unless you want to do plumbing like I did then make sure you use PVC and Metal blast gates. My best advice is keep it simple as long as you can, a shop vac with a 2” hose is a great all-rounder.
Thanks man! I think I am just trying to solve the same problems you were. The shop vac is bulky and in the way and I don't want a hose just kicking around on the floor. I think I will keep what I have for now. Maybe intigrate PVC and blast gates later. Thanks!@@rightsidedownstudio
I'm not worried about it. I looked into it and found more scientific evidence that proved it's not a problem unless it's a large-scale industrial system. @StumpyNubs does a few videos talking about along with Dr. Cole's research paper into the matter airhand.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Dust-and-Static.pdf.
I agree, the intro of showing a blowout dust cloud was perfect timing. 😂😂😂 Thank you.
Thanks, you covered some of the questions I have been having. Wasn't sure for my little shop the best way but you showed that I was on the right track with PVC and a 'shop-vac' system. Enjoyed the video.
Glad it helped!
finally someone knowledgeable, explains it well, and includes all info hes gathered along the way, have been jumping between videos until i found yours, well done sir well done
Thank you so much! that means a lot.
@@rightsidedownstudio absolutely, will be here from now on! your style of humor makes me chuckle as well, good guy, good channel, glad I found it
I liked that intro. 🤣 "Perfect." 🤣
I'm not even done watching and had to comment. This is by far the best dust collection video I have seen. Watched a lot of them because my dust collecting system was clogging and not working well. Now I know how to make it better, Great job! Thanks for posting. Liked and subscribed.
Wow, thank you!
I solved this a couple of decades ago by going with short lengths of 2.5" flex hose from every single machine that I plug directly into the shop vac. No blast gates, now lines to run on the wall and no hoses on the floor to trip over. The shop vac is easy to move around since the hoses are attached to the tools rather than going with the shop vac and with the short hoses it works like gangbusters. I've got a 30 year old Craftsman wet/dry vac that I upgraded with a Clean Stream Gortex filter that filters to 0.5 microns and it's reusable/easy to clean and you can even use it with liquids if you like but I don't.
Cheers!
mouse rat so under rated glad you giving them som exposure. rip lil sebastian.
THANK YOU!!! over 130k views and you're the first to notice the shirt!
😢 Lil Sebastian.
I have seen several videos on dust collection on UA-cam, this one is by far the best explanation on which system to choose. Thank you very much. 👍🏼
Wow, thanks!
Wish I had watched your video a year ago! Great presentation, to the point and entertaining, keep up the good work.
Much appreciated!
Great video. You broke it down in simple terms. No sharp turns like the other poster said, and if you have a 3D printer you can custom print your own connectors.
Dust collection as a weekend warrior lever like me has always been frustrating. Science always wins.Your research and presentation were great. I finally gave up on dust management and collection and I do all my dust production outside in open space but under cover. I roll my machines outside as needed. Mother nature collects it and I wear a dust collector on my face.
I get it, it's hard to justify putting the money and work into setting up a dust collection system when it's just a part time hobby. But, it sounds like you figured out a good fix.
I've been struggling to get to a good (affordable) solution for dust collection to keep from caking every single inch of my shop (and my friggin' lungs!) with fine particulates, so your vid hit perfectly. The fact that you're using some of the same equipment as I do (incl. the exact Ridgid shopvac lol) kept me here to see how YOU put it together.
My shop is a 12x18 (with a 12x8 screened-in porch) loft barn, so I won't need to go 20'x20' on the piping to get to the far end of the workspace, so your solution is going to fit well for suction. Thanks for the helpful information (including the blast gate info!) and keep grinding, brother.
Thank you!! And glad it helped
lol, 'your boring technical script'. After mostly failure and frustration, I finally gave in and read Bill Pentz's article on his site, maybe 6 times and took notes. We ended up in the same place. Now I have my DC and working on my 3rd Dustopper setup. Great video, and take the strap off of your Anamometer before it gets sucked in, and breaks the impeller,,,sheesh! (bought another).
The remotes for controlling devices are pretty cool and I used that for a while, but I then discovered the sockets that you can link to Apple Home (other phones are available). What that means is that I can just say ‘hey Siri turn on shop vac’. It’s sooooo cool. So I now have a load of devices / equipment attached to these: air compressor, shop vac, heater, overhead workbench lights etc.
That is an amazing idea! I have the Alexa plugs for lights but I never even thought of using them in my shop.
Cool idea. Might do that.
Means no lost remote!
@@andybrook-dobson726 exactly
Not a bad idea, however I'd be quite impressed if that device actually heard me over any piece of equipment running, namely a shop vac. My thought about dealing w/ losing the remote was to chain it to the wall next to where I'd most frequently need/use it. But that's just, like, my opinion. xD
On the attachment to the blast gate, heat up the pvc a bit with a torch and then press it onto the blast gate. Then you have a custom connection. Also, use hard piping from the dust separator to the shop vac. Only use flexi-duct from blast gate to the tool.
10:13 a heat gun works really well to stretch the pvc
This is one of the best vids I’ve seen as you mention the machines may not be top end models so saw dust is going to come out of the machine in various places as it’s the last thing they are worried about for the amateur as it’s to keep costs down ,so no matter how good your dust vac is it isn’t going to keep dust from escaping from cheaper machines , and that is something I wouldn’t have really considered and probably going to help us from wasting unnecessary money , so great stuff 👍
i use a remote too. I store on my table saw with velcro. then when i'm working moving around the shop i keep it in my pocket. my tools are half and half. 4" and two inch. so i have to use both. a stand up and A shop vac. I like the set up for the shop vac you did. i've been dragging it around the garage. Thanks
Thanks!
The Charlie Hunnam clip in the middle was hilarious. Also, if you're using 2" PVC and 2 1/2" dust ports, you can take a heat gun and heat up that pvc for a few minutes til its maluable and then put it inside the 2.5" port and let it cool to harden. It makes a great fit and is super easy. I might add some tape or something if you're not going to be removing it all the time. There's lots of videos on it too to reference.
Great video buddy and just in time for me! I’m currently sitting on 3 shop vacs that I keep tripping over around the shop lol. I was thinking about a larger system but most of my equipment is for the casual diy-er so I have “small” dust collection ports. I really appreciate all the time you put into researching this topic and that you took the time to share your findings. Most importantly you’ve saved me the trouble of having to figure all this out. You’ve gained a new sub buddy!
PS: My favourite part happened around the 9 minute mark. I can’t believe people are getting triggered over a little humour which I thought was completely perfect for the moment. Don’t be discouraged by these soft as butter clowns, you’ve got a good thing going with this channel. Good luck!
Awesome video. Just what I needed (the basic info and not the science) for better collection
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for explaining the 2 systems.(HPLV vs LPHV) It helped to make that decision on what system I needed.
Glad I could help!
Those holes in the shroud below your Ryobi table saw are to allow airflow into the "box" when you have a proper dust collection system installed. If you seal all of them up, it's like placing your hand over the end of the hose - lots of noise, but not much action.
To your point, this is an inexpensive saw, so it may not be properly "tuned" to your airflow. Don't just cover up all the slots and assume you improved things... Instead, try closing off portions of those slots to see where the correct "balance point" is between fully open and fully closed for YOUR dust extraction system.
There's a video I saw recently where a guy built a dust collection box for his router table, and sealed it up tight as a drum. The only entry point for air was the opening around the router bit. Sounds perfect, right? But in fact, the small opening reduced the airflow to the point where airflow "stalled" and the dust collection was terrible. Opening up a hole in the box (while counter-intuitive) proved to vastly improve his dust collection by ensuring adequate airflow.
Second point: You stated that the DeWalt planer (which looks like a 735 in your video?) has a "small port"... Nope - it has a 4-inch port that is reduced by that snap-on adapter to 2" so that it can be directly connected to a shop vac. If you read their recommendations, they want you to connect a HVLP system (dust collector) rather than a HPLV system (shop vac or dust extractor). And if you MUST use a shop vac, it should be directly connected to the planer with as short a length of hose as practical, to minimize suction loss and reduce the risk of clogging. If you plane wider boards (producing LOTS of wood chips), you may find that you create more wood chips than your long-run shop vac hose can carry away, resulting in a clogged system. Keep a close eye on it!
Informative as hell! Thanks for giving the why and sharing the suction impact 👌
8:23 If you are going to compare the suction with and without the dust separator, your should compare the separator with a clean filter to a dirty filter without the separator, because that’s what you will have after 5 minutes of use. 😄 And that’s really the reason to use a separator - take a 15%-20% hit but (mostly) maintain that suction, versus having your suction range from 100% after you install a new filter, all the way down to “is this thing even on.”
Yes, this!!!
Additionally, re the thinking behind this test, it helps to understand that every extra thing between the vacuum’s blades and the open end of the hose impedes air flow. Every inch/mm of pipe, every bend, everything in the path works against air speed (except for Bernoulli thingies). So, of course removing the dust separator results in faster air speed. But that isn’t the real need.
As @spaaarky21 indicated, the real concern to be tested is effectiveness. A few moments of measuring airspeed doesn’t tell us anything about that.
In addition to @spaaarky21’s suggestion, I also recommend doing air quality tests to see if/how much the dust separator helps.
If all you care about is faster air speed, pipe the vacuum’s output straight outside. No bags, no traps.
I go with adage-if has two inch then connect a two inch and if has 4 inch then hook a 4 inch. I use a Seperator (dust deputy) and connect a shop vac to it. The shop vac and has bag and of course a filter. Good Info. My shop is a garage.
Best video I've ever seen on the topic. Nice work! I wish I'd seen this 10 years ago.
Thank you!
Fully agree any dust collection is better than none. And keeping the use of crinkle pipe to a minimum. With the mitre saw a bit of sealing up around the port and making a larger dust shoe really helps as well.
And yes you definitely need 45s instead of 90s. Also on your main line where all the blast gates are, it is even better to use Y shapes. Good luck! Give us a review in another few months
I'm an HVAC guy. Restriction from turns is unavoidable, I agree with "y" connections and 45's. A "long radius " 90 is also ok, don't use short radius 90's, the sharp turn kills the flow. Yes I built my own system with 2" pvc through a home made cyclone separator on a garbage can then to a 6 hp shop vac. Works great, only thing it won't keep up with is my Dewalt planner (same one as in the video).
Nice video, great way to cover it using a shop vac now I just need to get pipe and blast gates 👍🏽
Thanks 👍
I adapted a central vacuum to a 55g drum with a cyclone. It...sorta does the job. Pine shavings clog in the cyclone super easy.
What kind of vacuum are you using?
@@rightsidedownstudio It's an old, discontinued, central vac unit that was being thrown away by a customer at my former job. It sucks so well that the chips and shavings fail to fall into the drum and instead head right into the unit and fill the bag. I have a slice valve off to the side of the main line into the vac to reduce the volume going into the drum. Because, a 55g drum plus shop vac, doesn't work.
I have 2 vacuums one just on my table saw with a separator. 2nd connected to the same Amazon grey hose you have that I just swing on a boom arm to each tool as I go to them. The vac hose has an extension cord attached to it to plug the tool I’m using into and an auto on switch turns on the vacuum when I start the tool. Super easy to set up and works quite well. No blast gates no pipes running all over the wall. Now I just need to make some sound deadening boxes over the vacuums and my air compressor. There’s always another shop project.
That’s a nice efficient set up. I want to make sound deadening boxes as well, the shop vac is obnoxiously loud in the small shop.
Buy a quiet lowes compressor. They are so quiet now. This is the smaller size with wheels. Maybe 4cfm, 2 gal.
nice video , you could have uses spacers against the wall to straighten everything out on your manifold, but looks awesome
Thanks!
Thanks for the video! I was about to buy the wrong system completely until I watched your video.
Glad I could help!
This was tremendous- good detail but very very practical. Thanks so much for putting all the effort into this work! Just subscribed- relative newbie woodworker.
Glad it was helpful! Good luck on woodworking, there's so much great info out there to make it fun.
Hi love the vid also speaking of dust collection my school has a industrial dust collection system with 12in pipe you can some how suck up a compact sheet Sander some one a year per did that also don't touch a jointer cuter he'd when spinning some one fond the out the hard way and some one got there hand stuck under a board going through the wide belt sander on the Timesaver
Probably the best and most practical video I’ve seen about this complicated topic. Going with your advice for my shop! New subscriber here btw!
Thank you so much! glad it helped
Great personality and authentic. Appreciate the video brother.
I appreciate that!
Great video. Thank you. Consider cleaning around the gaps in your Ryobi machines and duct taping them. Yes, it's a bit bodgy, but might claw back some system efficiency on those tools.
Thanks for the tip!
Mount uni-strut on the wall first that will give you a uniform offset and allow for your blast gate space
Use pipe clamps to mount pipes to Uni strut
New sub here hello from down under may change my wood workshop and incorporate a few of your ideas. Mouse Rat classic indeed.
Awesome, thank you!
Thanks for the great ideas. Enjoying watching your channel! 🎉
Thanks so much! 😊
So cool. Reminds me of all my experiments 😅
Very convincing, the real deal. Thanks man, for the insights!
A relative Luddite here, but do you think adding another shopvac to the network would do it? Perhaps you can segment your network with the blast gates and operate the two either in unison or separately with the blast gate on for isolation?
I really don't know honestly. I have two vacuums now so I will hook them both up and run some test. Give me a few days and I'll have an answer for you.
@@shankarh6915 So I just finished testing a second vac to the system and it doubled the flow! The first test was both vacs sitting next to each other and running at the same time and it went from 15 meters per second to 30. I also tested it with a dust separator and it had the same results and one vac sitting 10ft away from the other with the same results. So adding a second vac GREATLY increases suction. The video will come out in a few weeks.
Awesome! Expected , I think this is a reasonable / affordable solution for a small shop with 2-2.5” hoses. I think the big insight I had from video was how quickly the big high volume systems become ineffective with smaller hoses - I am thinking Bernoulli’s principle is at play here.. it’s been a while since I studied that in physics 😊
Nice vid. But one thing that got left out of the calculation: a direct connection to the shop vac might beat the cyclone when the filter is completely unclogged. But if you’re sucking dust directly onto your filter, it’s going to clog up quickly and reduce airflow. I’d love to see that competition repeated after a few big projects without the cyclone.
You're absolutely right! after about 4 days there was a noticeable decrease in suction due to the filter clogging. I ended up putting the cyclone back on to save the filter. I'm working on another video that's testing that's testing everyone's comments and I think I may have found a way to completely eliminate suction reduction from the cyclone. I'm still working on it so stayed tuned.
use a pool sock on the filter @@rightsidedownstudio
A light lanyard works great for not loosing remote. I’d loose it too as soon as I opened the box lol
Hey man everything looks great. However, 45's should be used rather than 90's. Great video
It's something I wish I would have done. If I get a clog because of the sharp angle I'll take it apart and replace everything with 45s.
I was about to say the same thing. 90° elbows are going to cause you issues. Another thing to do, there two types schedule 40 pvc. Thick wall and thin wall. If you get thin wall schedule 40 you won't have to shave the inside of PVC to make it fit. Buy a section schedule 40 thin wall and use it to cut collars for all your connection points.
It’s not about getting a clog, it’s about airflow. You are clearly smart enough to use an airflow meter to scientifically test pressure loss, you are also smart enough to realize you may have killed most of your hard piping gains by adding choke points for airflow, and yes, possibly a “clog”.
It's not about clogging. It's about flow. Kinda odd how you can write a 20 page script with physics formulas- pull out an airflow meter- yet you end up with such gaps...your system is trash compared to mine, and I didn't use physics or test equipment. Remember to keep it simple, stupid. @@rightsidedownstudio
Large radius street elbows like the Dustopper elbow are better than two 45-degree elbows. They have very little flow restriction and I’ve never seen one clog up yet.
Best explanation I’ve heard, thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
Very helpful info. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Well Done... Thanks for all of Your Effort and Info.
Much appreciated!
Great video thanks. One thought on you rationale to ditch the dust collector. You presented the trade-off of dust filters vs added suction. There is a time element in there, with the duct collector you always get the same suction over time, while I don't know the answer, my experiences is the filter becomes less effective the more it files up with fine dust, so it degrades over time. The question is how often and for what duration does it drop below the dust collector option? A follow up showing suction capacity just before and after you change your filter compared with the duct collector.
I completely agree with you on the time element. The first project I did after I took the dust collector off the filter only lasted around 2 hrs. before it clogged. I ended up modifying the Dustopper and got it down to almost zero loss in suction with it attached. Here's the modification ua-cam.com/video/1z0HZRjXp3I/v-deo.html
You can also heat gun the PVC and force it over the gate. As the OVC cools, it will confirm to the gate port and create a good (50%) seal.
I didn't know you could do that until I saw a few other people say the same thing, I tried it on another project and it works really well.
Thank you for a comprehensive educational video.
First time I listened to a wood worker talk about roughness coefficient in smooth vs. rough piping.
I want to return to wood working including wood turning i had to quit because of the dust issue.
Anyway, if you were turning wood how would you suggest capturing the shavings, more importantly the fine dust. I would really appreciate your suggestions.
You got me as a continual subscriber!
❤
Again THANK YOU!
I have a small cheap 8” x 12” wood lathe and this set up works really well. I have this dust hood amzn.to/498Wyde connected to the shop vac hose and I have the hose and hood taped to a Gooseneck flexible arm amzn.to/3Ok7cWP so I can move the hood to where ever I need it. It catches almost all of the shavings and dust if I have the hood in the right place. For the fine dust I made this video ua-cam.com/video/bzn1N3Yu280/v-deo.html on setting up a cheap effective extra fine air filter. I love it and wish I made it sooner, or if you’re in a pinch a filter taped to the back of a fan works as well.
I can't remember the UA-cam channel, it's been a while but they tested flex hose vs smooth metal piping vs pvc and found that they were all so close to each other in cfm that the difference was negligible. It's similar to the smooth vs ribbed intake debate for vehicles, and yes on paper, a smooth intake delivers slightly better performance but in real world practicality, you'll never notice the difference.
Great info and video editing. New sub. The Charlie Hunnam clip after the pipe tapping was brilliant.
Thanks for the sub!
Doesn't that clip mean it cant earn money? Didnt bother me.
This is exactly what I needed!!! Thank you so much!!!!
Glad it helped!
Extremely useful. Many thanks.
You're welcome!
Great video
Thanks!
Great job and info, thanks!!
Thanks for watching!
I already have one of those remote power switches - a real game changer. However, I just bought more crinkly hose - doh. Looks like I need to start over😢
The remote it one of the best things I've gotten for my shop in a long time.
Great Video! Really helped me.
Glad it helped!
good info here. thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
you should test the dust collector using PVC pipes, otherwise its inclear if the loss caused by the cyclon or the extra flexible pipe.
also worth to notice, without the cyclone the filter will be clogged and you lose much more suction quickly.
you could use a heatgun to make those fittings a littble bit bigger os smaller, that provides thight fit.
Great job. Keep them coming. Idea on your vac remote - glue a small magnet to the back of it. Subscribed!
Even better than the remotes are these specialized power bar type outlets that you plug your tool and your vacuum system into: when the tool turns on, it automatically powers on the vacuum.
YES! I've been trying to figure out how to make it work for my shop. The only ones I can find have one plug for the vacuum and two plugs for equipment. I want one that has at least 4 plugs for equipment but I don't think they make anything like that or at least I cant find it.
@@rightsidedownstudio you can just run a power bar type expander from them, any power going downstream through that circuit will activate the vacuum :)
@@consciousconscience I didn't know if that would work or not, Thank you!
Build a hood over your miter saw. You can have another port in the table that will catch what the dust port misses.
Amazing thank you!!
Glad you liked it!
Good video. It's probably the limited view I have, but the hose you have at the end of your run looks quite a bit longer than you'd need, and every one of those loops is subtracting from your airflow. Maybe see how much you every would need and shorten the hose to that length? Anyway, thanks again for the info.
The hose is pretty long but it comes in handy when I clean the floor and walk way out of my shop. I did think about cutting it shorter and adding a quick connect, that way I can add a longer hose when needed but keep the shorter one for better suction on tools.
Another option to reduce losses over long runs is to simply buy a second vacuum. For example, having a smaller vac (aka cheaper) dedicated to the boom suction might be better than running complicated plumbing.
A few other people mentioned that as well so I'm working on a video now testing what is the best way to increase suction with a second vacuum.
@@rightsidedownstudio nice. I'm struggling to work out how to arrange dust collection in my "small shop" (6m x 3.6m). My hypothesis is that if you have a boom, that should be fed by the "trunk" of the Christmas Tree (straight vertical run up from the dust collector to the boom hinge).
Great Job!!! What was your end cost when you did it?
$30 PVC (2 10’ sections),
$34 PVC joints (4 90’, 3 three ways, 5 couplings, 1 DWV Flex coupling)
5 blast gates $18 each
$8 wall brackets
$38 for new hose
the swing arm was made out of scrap wood and a old hinge. So total was right around $200. The blast gates are the most expensive part but also the most important. My last set up with all the flex hose and plastic blast gates cost $150 and was complete garbage.
Great video. Thank you
Glad you liked it!
Gently and evenly heat the end of a coupler with a torch and while it is soft press it over the blast gate. THis will create a perfect and tight fitting.
Great video and l will do it your way. One question, what do you suggest as a good hight pressure low volume vacuum. Thank you
Great question with perfect timing! My shop vac just died so I went to Home Depot to get a new one and couldn't decide which one was the best so I bought one of each and I'm working on a video now to see which is the best for dust collection in a shop. I will hopefully have the video up in 2 weeks.
I just finished testing a bunch of vacuums and the best is the 14 gallon 6 peak hp NXT wet/dry RIGID. It has great suction, and is quiet. www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-14-Gallon-6-0-Peak-HP-NXT-Wet-Dry-Shop-Vacuum-with-Fine-Dust-Filter-Locking-Hose-and-Accessories-HD1400/304795071?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&pla&mtc=SHOPPING-BF-CDP-GGL-D25S-025_014_WET_DRY_VACS-NA-Multi-NA-PMAX-NA-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NA-WetDryVacs&cm_mmc=SHOPPING-BF-CDP-GGL-D25S-025_014_WET_DRY_VACS-NA-Multi-NA-PMAX-NA-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NA-WetDryVacs-71700000117332056--&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAoeGuBhCBARIsAGfKY7wa5UCUd-S3ZQM--So8mdgnmBgSH9tFHG9p_Cq2eZQDiVBmvsETiXUaAp8gEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
Such a great shirt 🤘
Thank you!!
Dude you got me with the into 😂😂😂
I used 40mm pipe on my collection system and have no loss in suction
I also used swept 90 not straight 90
And where you couldn't get the pipe close to the wall to 45° would have sorted that problem out
Did with mine
Great job! Why not add another shop vac on the far end of the shop for better suction? Just a thought:)
2:44 how i feel lugging the table saw and miter saw around lol
I use a dust deputy to keep filter clean. I figure i would let the filter get bad and then lose suction anyway.
That's exactly what happened to me after about 2 hours of sanding. I ended up changing some things around and fixing the Dust stopper in this video ua-cam.com/video/1z0HZRjXp3I/v-deo.html
my guy pulled out the fridge manual im dying
😂😂
Great tips and demonstrations! Any idea what your total parts cost was? ...PVC, wall clamps, blast gates, hardware, etc. Thanks!
$30 PVC (2 10’ sections),
$34 PVC joints (4 90’, 3 three ways, 5 couplings, 1 DWV Flex coupling)
5 blast gates $18 each
$8 wall brackets
$38 for new hose
the swing arm was made out of scrap wood and a old hinge. So total was right around $200. The blast gates are the most expensive part but also the most important. My last set up with all the flex hose and plastic blast gates cost $150 and was complete garbage.
Thanks for your fast and detailed response. Seems like a reasonable price range to get control over dust! Also-Remote controlled shop-vac-pure genius!! Maybe use it to scare trick or treaters too
Wow, you reply to your good questions in the comments. Thanks.
Great video brother!! Thanks for this. Earned the sub!!
Awesome, thank you!
Thanks for the advice! Will try it out.
for my shop, i was thinking a used furnace blower with a dust separator (cyclone) and PVC piping and blast gates. any thoughts on that set up?
It should work. I just finished shooting a shop vac video where I explain if you're using a dust separator all you need is a motor because your dust separator is holding all of the dust. So, you would be setting up exactly that. You would need to set it up like you're setting up a LPHV system because a normal shop vac RMP's are around 20k-30k creating the High Pressure and a furnace blower is 1200-1500 rpm which is much closer to a Low Pressure system but you'll be moving a lot of volume, probably around 900-1100 cfm. You'll want to focus on larger piping with reductions as close to the equipment as possible to allow that volume room to flow. The only thing I would be nervous about is if your dust separator fills up the dust will flow right into the motor and it might cause some damage.
@@rightsidedownstudio i would put a screen and furnace filter between the separator and the blower to avoid the dust entering the motor. thanks for the comment on the reduction being close to the equipment. I didn't think of that part. I would also include a floor sweep in the collection system.
As flows add up, from two sources, you should have twice the cross sectional area in the pipe.
May I address that you said your planer has a "small hole" when really it just has a reducer fitting on it? I have the same brand planer but a model down (734), and it has a 4" output. How does you system handle collection through the adaptor? Thats the only tool I have with that big of a port, and I want to use a 2 or 2.5" system so it fits everything else I have.
I should have addressed it better. Like you my entire system runs on a 2" hose or pipes so I kept the adapter on the planner making it a small hole. I think it works fine, I've never had a problem with it. It's never clogged up or acted like it was struggling.
Can we have the physics video too? that sounded really cool
I've always wondered, if you have to manualy close and open all those gates, why not just make a quick connect to separate straight lines. I am no expert by any means but I would think straight airflow is always better then all those bends and double or triple joints. What do you think?
I'm not sure I understand what you mean. You are right straight airflow is better but I'm not sure what you mean with quick connect and separate straight lines. can you elaborate, maybe I can try it out.
@@rightsidedownstudio Yeah quick connect might have been confusing. Let's say there are 2 pipes on the wall. One going left to one mashine and one going right to another, both open in the middle. You simply put your dust collector's hose onto the one you are going to use. In principle they would act as just an extention of the hose but made with smooth piping.
@@goatman86 Ohh ok I gotcha, so there's a lot of people who do that. The most common connect is this magnetic quick connect amzn.to/4c3t02J I've seen people have one hose to a dust collector and just drag the hose to whatever machine they were using and snap it on or use it exactly like you mentioned. I thought about trying to just to demonstrate alternative ways to set up dust collection, but I just decided to go with the traditional way with blast gates. To your point of airflow around corners I did a ton testing in this video ua-cam.com/video/1z0HZRjXp3I/v-deo.html if you just jump to 13:17 I do the corner air flow test. Admittingly that’s just air with no saw dust. I’m sure with a lot of saw dust it would change the airflow, but I have no idea how to test that yet. You do have a great idea and if you have all the blast gates in the same spot as I do there’s really no reason you couldn’t set it up like you mentioned, it would actually probably look cleaner and be more efficient because you wouldn’t have tiny vacuum leaks from all the connections.
Good video!:)
Thanks!
Since you decided not to go with the dust collector bucket in favor of keeping your pressure high - add a pool sock on your filter - it'll preserve the life of your filter and makes it easy to clean up.
I did see that Idea a few other places and I was about to do it but i decided to do a video on why was the suction so bad with the dust stopper. I did come up with a way to fix it and keep the dust stopper, I'm also testing do bucket sizes make a difference and a few other things people commented on. I'm working on it now so it should be out in a week or two.
@@rightsidedownstudio cool. Just so you know. I use the cyclone to separate the dust along with the pool sock on the filter as i really never want to replace another filter on my shop vac again. Lol
I wouldn't think a bucket size makes a difference.
I have a small shop basic equipment ( hobbyist) I have one of those central machinery 2hp systems with the motor mounted overhead and shooting out of the back of my shop. SHould I stay with 4 inch piped around reduced down to the size i need at the equipment or should i maybe go 2 " from the top piped to the equipment ?
I actually just talked to someone about this. He tested using 2" right from the motor all the way to the equipment and then tested using 4" all the way and adding a reducer right at the machine. He said he had better results with using 4" all the way and reducing at the equipment. I'm not sure the exact science behind why it works better that way but if you're using a LPHV system that seems to be the best option.
hey bud thanks for the quick reply om going with round duct for cost reasons and I just might meet in the middle at 3" there's a y at the intake that goes 4 to 3 so we'll see . awesome report thanks
Cool video man. I do have a couple of suggestions though. First, 45 degree angles work best. Also, I think having the blast gates near each piece of equipment would be more efficient so you're not running back and forth each time, in conjunction with an automatic vacuum switch would work better than the remote because it turns on the vacuum as soon as the equipment turns on, and no remote to loose.
Thanks for the tips!
Could I use ball valves instead of the blast gates?
Some ball valves can be used with solid particles but most are intended for higher pressure gases, liquids, and solids with high viscosity. In general, gate valves (blast gates) would be preferred because they allow for a low vacuum high volume material to flow efficiently. I’ve never really looked for ball valves that would be large enough and able to handle solids but I would imagine the price would be more than even the best blast gate.
I see you still used some of that corrugated hose in your system... what's up with that? But, I love your setup.. I have that same Rigid vac and I have been waiting on someone showing me how to set it up as a dust collection system WITHOUT THE particle separator.... GOOD WORK
I used a little section for the movement on the miter saw because the suction port is on top of the saw so it moves back and forth. But because my shop is so narrow when I use my table saw I have to pull it out from the wall and turn it side ways to use it. So for now I can hard line it I have to use some flex hose until I can figure out where to put it so I don't have to move it around to use it.
gotcha
Great video! Curious if you're using the Hepa filter and a bag on the Ridgid shop vac or just the standard filter and no bag?
Just a standard filter. In my other video “dust collection what really works” I explain that my filter clogged within an hour so I put the dust stopper back on, but I also show how to fix it so there’s almost no loss in suction. Along with my video “dust collection basic setup” I build a HEPA air scrubber to take care of the fine particles, probably one of the most important things in the shop. But the next time I need to buy a filter I am going to get a HEPA filter with the sock.
16 seconds into this video and i couldn't help but chuckle. The dust in the miter saw 😂.
Ok, lets finish this video. Hope the rest of it has moments like this.
Great watch. I have a remote for my personal shop too. Small shop but so far i have built many things with minimal dust. The HD Dustopper works fine in a shop and saves your filter whes vacuuming the floors and quick saw setups "but" a dust collection system is prime in a shop. Nothing worst than dust. It'll get everywhere.
By the way for mine; i used 45's instead of 90°, my amigo assured me that they restrict less. My system works even better than i could of imagined. RIP Frank.
Thanks for watching! glad you liked it. In this video ua-cam.com/video/1z0HZRjXp3I/v-deo.html I put the Dustopper back on because my shop vac clogged up way to fast. I also test the difference in 45's vs 90's as far as airflow and I didn't see a difference. But, that's just for airflow, I wish I used 45's to prevent clogging. I haven't had a clog yet but as soon as I do I'll switch out to 45's.
@@rightsidedownstudioFor fine dust, you probably won't have much of an issue with the 90s... But, maybe the larger chips from your planer could start to cause an issue?
Well Done! Have also been researching the topic to death. Did you do a LPHV system too? How about a shop air filtration system? Noise?
After all the research I decided I didn’t need one. The HPLV works best with the smaller dust outlets. The noise is awful though, I would love to figure out how to fix that part. I’m working on a new video right now about air filtration, I have a few interviews set up with air quality experts and Dr.’s to understand the potential health hazards and how to prevent it the easiest and most practical way. Should be done in a few weeks.
If the PVC is the same as the blast gate, why wouldn't a coupler work? Not being snarky but interested if that could work.
Totally get it, I thought of that too. The blast gate is about 1/16” smaller all the way around and a metal coupler would only overlap about 1/2” on both sides so it wouldn’t make a tight enough seal. I also looked for the rubber coupler but I couldn’t find any that come close to fitting. Every one suggested to heat the pvc so I tried that and it works surprisingly well. I wish I would have know that when I shot this video.
@@rightsidedownstudio thanks for the response. About to build out my own and will try the heat with a clamp. Thanks!
Hey I actually learned something! I think. Maybe not. Ok so I have a DeWalt Job site table saw, a HF Band saw, a HF combo belt/disk sander and need an "around-the-shop" general vac hose. They all have like a 1" to 1.5" port and the longest distance is like 15'. Should I just keep my shop vac (2" hose)? I was about to get the Harbor Freight 1HP dust collector and put a HEPA cartridge filter on it with a bag. What do you think?
I would keep the shop vac. The HF dust collector has a 4” hose port and if you hook it up to a 1”-1.5” port you would restrict the LPHV design, and it wouldn’t be very efficient. You would want to stick with the HPLV to be efficient with the small ports. But, to keep it efficient you want to stay with just one hose from your vac to whatever you’re using unless you want to do plumbing like I did then make sure you use PVC and Metal blast gates. My best advice is keep it simple as long as you can, a shop vac with a 2” hose is a great all-rounder.
Thanks man! I think I am just trying to solve the same problems you were. The shop vac is bulky and in the way and I don't want a hose just kicking around on the floor. I think I will keep what I have for now. Maybe intigrate PVC and blast gates later. Thanks!@@rightsidedownstudio
Looks good, but what about static build-up?
I'm not worried about it. I looked into it and found more scientific evidence that proved it's not a problem unless it's a large-scale industrial system. @StumpyNubs does a few videos talking about along with Dr. Cole's research paper into the matter airhand.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/Dust-and-Static.pdf.