How to Build Concrete Driveways In Sections by Yourself - Keeping Things Simple
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- Опубліковано 27 вер 2024
- www.homebuildin... Click on this link more information about driveway construction, home remodeling and building repairs. This video will provide you with a few ideas how you can build a concrete driveway in sections alone. I've done it before and I've built a variety of different concrete patios, sidewalks with this method and think it will work well for beginners.
Here's a video that will provide you with a better idea about how much concrete you might need and how to make it easier by pouring it in smaller sections.
ua-cam.com/video/tVx-_EnsILY/v-deo.html
gregvancom how do make those splitting lines? You pour the first block but when you add the next one the line won’t be there, you have to make it somehow. This is the most difficult question for me
Can you do a garage floor the same way?
@@MikhailFromUSA Pour one section add wire mesh strip and leave it sticking out , next day remove the wood bend the wire down to prepare for the next section break the edge with a hummer to create a better bond for the next section . Ones you do it clean it well than smooth it together with a trowel. I did a 12x12 that way in 4 sections no effort what so ever 2 hours every late afternoons To avoid heat , looks great and I saved hundreds
Enjoyed this video. I've been pouring since 1979 and my biggest pour ever was an 1100 cubic yard monolithic pour; I had 20 finishers, we started out under lights and finished off under lights. Here in California I've been making segmented pours like this for years, but when I started doing it I was a 'little guy' and had to do this because I lacked the money to hire the crew. Thank you for making this video to help out people. You shouldn't have to go broke if you're a homeowner just wanting to pour a small slab or a driveway now and then. I respect it immensely that you're trying to help people.
Thanks for the kind comment. I worked on a project that had about 20 trucks or around 200 yards one time, but 1100, that's nuts.
Awesome thanks
Youd be surprised how little videos there are on UA-cam stating you can pour in sections. I've asked professionals and others online and everyone says you can't do it and gets an attitude. Thanks for your content.
sure you can do it but if you're doing a big slab its alot of work even if you are making small pours but you can save money
Because people who make money from it gets really angry at anyone trying to save money or learn skills for themselves most the time. They don't realize some people just like to learn and try things on their own and that some things are just simply out of some peoples budget. Like for me, I was quoted 1700 just to frame a 9ft long wall. no drywall or anything. just the frame. I priced the lumber myself and it only came out to 50 dollars. and it will only take an hr or less to do. Everyone I tried to ask for advice on the project refused to help because they want me to pay them lol. Silly they want me to pay their whole months rent and some for 1hr of work. and I just barely make 1700 a month.
I got into property management 14 years ago on the administrative side. I switched gears and went into the field 8 years ago. As a result of my experience, I bought a home this year. On $1500, I’ve painted, put in a new floor, new toilet, sink, tub surround, new supply plumbing and just replaced my sewer lines. I’m watching this vid to do my patio for about $200.
I've done over 100 foot of driveway like this no issues. Mostly because I didn't have the money to do it all at once.
@@Lilmiket1000 I don't mind a contractor making a living, but it's getting to the point that only the upper middle class and rich people can afford them. So basically, contractors are pricing themselves out of business....
I am a contractor. This will not work, because I cannot charge you tons of money and will be out of business, lol. Great video!
Its a lot of work. Plenty of business 😂
Naaa there are a lot of non physical people that dont want to DIY..
So your Job is safe....lol
Haha this was funny!
Nailed it
😂😂😂
I work with a structural engineering firm. If you were to drill a few 1/2" rear dowels on each side to tie together the small slabs, they will be more resistant to moving and work as a unit.
Hey greg! With your guidance i poured almost 6 yards of driveway extension 1 yard at a time 👌
Im a first timer and it came out great!
Thanks for the videos
Now that's awesome and glad everything worked out and you're welcome.
Exactly what I needed to hear. Ive got a 20 yard driveway project. Wish me luck.
@@treeamigo8447 you got this np 😉
I poured a 21x21 patio years ago doing this. 9 - 7x7 pads on 6” of compacted gravel. I used bagged cement so I did a 5” thick pour. One section a day with a small mixer. I Staggered the pours to let them dry. Worked well. I don’t have the confidence to handle a truckload of concrete all at on time. So I did it this way. The hardest part was wheelbarrowing 3 truckloads of gravel over 3 days time.
Hello, I have a question for you. I am looking at doing a small concrete driveway in sections. Someone mentioned to me you can get (A Gravel and portland cement) for your concrete mix. Or is it better to get a load of concrete sand and a load of gravel plus your portland cement to make up your concrete mix
@@dubeckvids3110 20 years ago I poured a few sections of driveway with delivered rock.
You can call the gravel yard and order "60-40 mix. And then you buy the 94# bags of portland cement and mix it. But I'd only do this is you have a LARGE mixer. My father-in-law had one. Think commercial size. Otherwise I'd get a Harbor Freight mixer and buy the bags. I made mine a little thicker, 5" when I did it, 5" of cement is 40% stronger than 4" if I remember correctly. If using the premixed bags I'd added a small amount of portland cement to each mix. 1 small shovel. I used 2 - 60# bags per mix into that mixer. For a driveway I'd put down a base of 6" of crushed cement "21AA" and I'd rent a tamper from Home Depot like I did and tamp every 2" of base. You don't want all of that work/time/money wasted! Last time I saw it a few years ago, it still looked good. No cracks! You can sell the mixer after. You will not mix up a driveway in a wheelbarrow, trust me.
Dump truck load of limestone is about 700 delivered
Very good. Showing the rebar passing through the notches of the wood was a useful insight.
Glad it was helpful.
Thank you so much for this video, this may be one of the greatest how-to videos on UA-cam
Glad you think so!
PROTECT THIS GUY AT ALL COSTS!
This is exactly what I was hoping to find! I've been trying to work out how to pour my own patio without tearing up our yard with heavy equipment. Thanks for the thorough walk-through and diagram.
You are welcome and glad it helped.
Did you end up pouring your patio? How did the process turn out?
Great vid, animation and detailed explanation, I'm sure you've saved a lot of people a lot of money. Right on man.
As a contractor myself, I'm amazed at the amount of contractors out there who insist on mass pouring over sectional pours. The cost in labour and multiple truck deliveries is way more on mass pours over sectional pours and if you use a fibre expansion filler in-between pads, if needed, then theres no need to cut expansion groves, saving more time and labour.
It's hard to tell if I've saved them a lot of money or added more frustration to their life, but let's hope that I have. Good point about the control joints.
Best video Ive seen yet. Ive never laid concrete before but yoi definetly boosted my confidence that i can do it myself with a couple helpers with good ol’ fashion elbow grease minus no heavy machinery
Great to hear!
Wow, I have suspected that this could be done. However, there isn’t a single video on UA-cam about this, until now! Thanks so much and for all of the tips:)
You're welcome and it was actually a video suggestion from one of my viewers.
gregvancom it may have been me as I asked you about this since I couldn’t think of any reason not to do it this way. Thanks for the tip about notching the form boards for rebar. You will have saved us thousands and I am excited about this project now...
Yes, it might've been you and it looks like a video that others appreciate also. Thanks for providing me with another video that could help those who watch it well into the future.
Thanks you made that sound simple as i will give it a try as it will be the first time i would of laid a driveway
Paul from Nottingham ENGLAND UK
You're welcome.
I think I've learned more from this guy than anybody
Wow! I've been mulling this one over for about 24 hours now because I have a mixer, can't afford to pay for a truck (especially since I would have to pay extra for rural delivery), and I need some slabs. You just saved me thousands! Thank you!
You're welcome and glad I could help.
@@gregvancom I'm struggling with the design of my current project that I need to finish before I get shoulder surgery. The southwest wall of my house needs an awning or our AZ house will be cooking this summer. I can't attach the awning to the house unless I want to pull permits. It's going to be a steel awning built over an existing wood deck. Eventually I want the deck to be a part of the awning, but I can't afford (both time-wise and financially) to do it all in one shot, especially since the deck is going to be expanded. Do you have any ideas on how to build a steel awning over an existing deck and then connecting the two or should I just leave them separate? If you're too busy to deal with this ridiculous question, I understand. Haha.
Wow incredible I’m pouring a slab for a 20x24 shop and will do it in sections 😎
Hey Kevin how did your pour go? I wish I could do this with my shop I'm putting up 40x50 it'd take me for ever to do it sections at a time
Great help. Thank you so much. I want to do a garage floor 40x30 so your image was great for 10’Sections. I have a mixer so this will make a huge difference. I wasn’t sure about the new pour and letting it dry and pouring it up against the old but this answered that very clearly.
Glad it was helpful!
I have concrete slabs that make up my driveway. I'm going to do it a slab at a time. This video gave me the motivation to do the project! Thanks!
You can do it!
Great idea to explain the process on diagram / computer ...straight forward.👍
I have been watching a lot of videos on the topic of pouring a small foundation (I wanted to put up a shed) and your video is by far the most informative and concise video I've watched so far. Thank you.
You are so welcome and thanks for letting me know!
diy in sections, certainly makes alot of sence. thank you.
You're welcome and I'm glad it helped.
The sections can actually be poured such that they have a gap between them. This gap can then be filled with pavers. This looks great and prevents having to damage the surface of the freshly poured concrete.
Excellent idea and I've also done that before, using bricks. It looks great also.
Neal Johnsoh for sure! They do this in Japan a lot. Usually a row of red brick in between two sections.
Even a strip of grass would be beautiful.
Soap Academy even a banana Bush or a strip of canned pineapples
that is exactly how we do it. plus we also use metal twine like wire to tighten up the cross overs [so the rebar does not move] .
awesome video !!
Thanks for sharing, watching and commenting.
Thank you so much for your educational video. I want to pour cement for a basketball court for my kids and it was going to be so expensive that I’ve decided to do it myself.
Go for and I would love to see some pictures after it's done or even during the process. You can get our email address at our website.
I can't afford to pour 1 solid slab and was wondering if i could pour in sections. Your video gave me all the information i needed. Thank you so much and great job on the video.
Glad I could help
Very informative! Thank you! Loved the animations lol
My favorite part is the vapor barrier on the ground!! This is a better slab than any a big cementer could do.
We don't use vapor barriers for driveways, but would love to hear why you might.
Can’t thank you enough for this video, thanks Greg.
You're welcome and thanks for letting us know how much you enjoyed the video.
Simple calculation for concrete volume in cubic yards: The only factor to remember is .003 So { L (in feet) x W in feet x Thk in inches x .003 = Total cubic yards } A project using 80# redimix bags uses a factor of .133 So { L x W x D in inches x .133 = Total 80# bags }
Great video. I've done pours like this myself.
Definitely a good way to build things out a concrete and thanks for the kind words.
Very informative video. I've laid pads for monument signs so I know what will work, but this just confirmed and showed me some good tips. Thanks much.
You're welcome and I'm glad it helped.
I would buy and install fiber Concrete Expansion joint boards...install between slabs or against buildings, for me it's a must!! Great video on DiY..👍👍👍
Sounds great!
Thank you for your videos, I appreciate you taking your time to explain the whats and hows for DIYers like me. I have a few questions and perhaps you have already mentioned them but I have yet to find a clear answers on this anywhere online. Q1 - Should I or should I not use any expansion joints in between where my garage floor ends and this new driveway will begin from, like in between the two edges of concrete? Currently what I have is, on one edge is old concrete slab from my garage floor and the other edge is the asphalt, which is what I am planing to get rid of and have a driveway made up of concrete. Q2 - Do I need to have an expansion joint in between where the entryway sidewalk ends and where the side of the driveway begins? I plan on making both on separate days. Q3 - Do I need to have an expansion joint in between the side-edge of the entryway-sidewalk and the side wall of the house (concrete)? Q4 - Is it a good practice to have the expansion joints in between the sections of the driveway where the control joints are automatically being formed with this sectional approach or is it not? Because it seems, since the control joints will already be present, the expansion joints are no longer needed, like a redundancy. But then again, because these sections are being made with a time delay in between and I am also hearing from the folks at my local hardware store that I have to have an expansion joint in between two concrete slabs to help prevent damage to concrete due to expansion and contraction and that they are typically used in between concrete slabs and to separate slabs from structures. I am confuse to whether or not I should have to have the expansion joints, please help. Q5 - Lastly, how can I know the correct amount of clay/sand/gravel to lay under the driveway and under the sidewalk, like what condition of the soil sets the bar to use how much and which kind (clay/sand/gravel)? If there is any video that you may already have which mentions anything on this, please let me know. Thank you so much in advance.
How about doing some research instead of expecting someone to write you a book in a comment section?
Thank you for posting!!!!
Our pleasure!
I like the animation. Your notching suggestion works. As you say, pay attention to using straight lumber for form work. Laminating two 1x4s together before notching is well worth the extra effort. Apply diesel liberally. But don't get it on your re-bar.
Excellent ideas and thanks for sharing. I like the one by four ideas and you could always use 1x4 or 1x6 that weren't straight, then snap a straight line near the edge and cut it to create a nice straight surface that can be used for a screed or the top of the form.
Thank you for this video. I will be doing all my concrete projects like this.
Fantastic!
This is an amazing solution, thank you for posting this. Could you use a similar solutiuon for pouring vertical walls in sections? I'm thinking you could use an almost identical method but using vertical forms. I'm guessing it would be approximately the same as lifting pre cast panels in place. I have a farm and getting any serious concreting equipment to site is logistically impossible, short of a large helicopter!
After notching the formwork for the rebar, you can use spray foam to seal the bottom of the notch, cutting it flush with the face of the formwork once it cures. After pouring and removing the formwork, a quick clean with a wire wheel/brush and onto the next section
I wouldn't worry about filling the holes, because the concrete when wet would usually get stuck and stop flowing through them. It doesn't need to be a clean edge and after the forms are removed, the next batch of concrete will simply flow around the deformed area.
Well explained.
Exactly what I am planning to do. I would like to add that apart from saving some money, you end up with something you know exactly how it was done... And in my experience better than what professional would do.
Also, I plan to use armature as well, but also in sections. And drill edge boards to put through rebars and weld them. This is for sure slower, but fully flexible especially if you don't have exactly rectangular area.
I will never be able to afford to pay someone to take as much time getting the details right as I do.
Can you dry pour a driveway
using this method to pour a 19x25' 6" pad for my pole barn. thanks so much!
Excellent!
How did it go?
Awesome video, thanks
Glad you liked it!
Very nice. Great Info. Thank you, I will use your method.
This is a great idea with having your wife help! I will just have my wife mix all 245 bags. We got this!j
Exactly, and if she gets tired, you could always mix one or two bags while she's resting:)
If she can’t handle 245 bags then get a new buff woman that has big muscles and big muscle legs lol
A gracious thank you, amazing explanation.
Thanks Greg! Love the animation, Great video!! Easy to understand and extremely helpful. Two thumbs up.
Thanks again :)
You're very welcome and I always enjoy hearing comments like yours.
Good video.. you can even use just busted up cinder blocks to hold re bar up. Where im at its to code an everthing..
I own a mobile home park and I'm updating a driveway to concrete I may try this method! Detailed and great video. I'm a 1 person DIY on this. I'll link the pictures to you if I actually do this method
I would love to see your pictures and thanks for watching our videos.
Thank you
You're welcome
Steven Speilberg called....he wants his animation back! ;-)
Yeah, I have a variety of movie studios that want me to come and work for them now, but I'm going to have to pass. Now if Spielberg calls that's totally different.
Absolutely excellent. Animation helps a ton too! Thank you. Could potentially save thousands, but I’m wondering why everyone tells me to pay up pros if I want it done.
I'm with you, I like doing things myself I can and if you like doing things yourself, then why not give it a shot. The good news is that you can pour one section and if you don't like the way it turned out or it took too much effort, then you could always hire a professional. However, you're never going to know if you don't get to try.
I plan on doing this for a foundation for a metal building. It is going to be a 40x80. Quite big but I would like to do it in sections also.
Just answered the question ive been asking for years
Nice.
Amazing, just what I needed 👏👏👏👏👏👏
Perfect!
Sorry if someone already asked this, but how long do you wait to do the next section? Are you waiting hours, a day, two days? And between the two section you just put the fresh concrete in direct contact with other slab? Thanks so much, love the graphic and animation.
I can't provide you with an exact time, for example 24 hours or a week, but can suggest doing the next section anytime after you feel comfortable that the concrete slab is dry enough. Keep in mind that if you're pouring more than four sections, you could always pour the next section a few hours later if it wasn't located parallel to the one you recently poured. Let me know this doesn't make sense.
I did it... I made a picture frame of exposed aggregate @ 12x30 around it than poured panels the size of a sheet of plywood individually inside it One by One.. came out Excellent & you could drive a Semi truck on it ~ I pity the fool who has to take it up. in 100 years ... I also put a ton on reinforcement in it...
Thanks this helps
What about a slab foundation with grade beams and rebar? Does pouring it in one go or in multiple make a difference in performance of foundation?
Thank you!! I'm going to check out your other video on how much I need.
You're welcome and good luck on your project.
great video, but I'm not clear how often (if at all) I need expansion joints between sections. I'm also not clear on what my options are for making those expansion joints.
Contact your local building supply or lumber yard for those materials.
This is awesome info man thanks so much!
You are welcome thanks for the enthusiastic comment.
This was a really great video. I don’t want to accept the fact I need to pay 6k for a 1k material pour. Sections are the answer !
Glad you liked it and thanks for watching.
Thank you so much. I am looking at slab for a 24 x 48 pole barn and if I do it myself in sections I can do for @ $5000. Contractors quote @ $10,000.
You're welcome and good luck with your project.
1. Do you need to separate each section with some sort of material to account for expansions and contractions of the concrete? I've seen pressure treated wood being used, but I just wanted to know if this is really necessary.
2. If you have rebars going through different sections and water or oxygen seeps in and contacts the rebars, in the long term, wouldn't the rebars rust away? Potentially your whole rebar system would be eaten away by rust.
Thanks for the video.
I would simply look around your neighborhood and see if they're using any expansion materials for their joints and if so repeat the process when building your driveway. I cannot provide you with a standard answer, because I think different building methods are used around the world. As far as the rebar rusting, you're right if it's exposed to air it can deteriorate over time.
There are three better options to using bare steel rebar. 1rst is epoxy coated steel rebar. 2nd is fiberglass rod rebar. 3rd is basalt (volcanic rock fiber) rebar. Both fiberglass & basalt are much lighter than steel but equal or exceed the required strength as steel reinforcement. If anybody has interest in these alternatives , there is much info on the internet about all three. @@gregvancom
Love this video !!
Thank you!!
How about a concrete driveway poured one yard at a time in sections over a multi-year period for a 8 foot by 60 foot driveway? It seems that there would be an obstacle connecting slabs together with rebar because the rebar extending beyond the poured section would be exposed to the environment until the next section gets poured six months later. Maybe leave each section at a stand-alone piece then roto hammer the old slab to receive epoxy and rebar. Maybe make the pour thicker where the slabs connect for strength and to easily accommodate the rebar.
Good ideas.
Great Video Thank You
You are welcome!
This is awesome!!
Thanks
It’s really help full
Thanks for letting us know.
Did you do it? I appreciate all the details. I was hoping for more of a play by play real video. I think the danger is getting into and finding you can’t do it and then pay for someone to remove it. Also how many weeks are you not going to be able to use the driveway. Neighbor comments and wife impatience etc. City hassles…
I'm going to do it myself in 5' x 5' sections because its saving me money. A company quoted me $8,000 to pave my 30' x 60" drive way. Im sorry if you are offended and you not makine lots of money off of me, but I need a paved drive way and I cant afford to pay someone.
Only 8k?? Damn that’s cheap I’m a contractor I would have quoted 15k for that we’re talking 22 yards there but to each their own you get what you pay for, go for it lmao we’ll see how bad it comes put
Do you have a Vedic on sidewalk where the garbage cans stay toward the backyard door? Nice jobs
Here's a link to the "outdoor" section of our website that might be helpful.www.homebuildingandrepairs.com/outdoors/index.html
Greg,
Why wouldn't the interconnected rebar between adjacent poured pads negate the effectiveness of the expansion joints? Before seeing this, I would have assumed that each pad would have it's own independent rebar reinforcement.
I understand exactly what you're referring to and if you wanted to keep them separate, then go for it, but the rebar connecting the slabs together will also prevent it one section from raising or lowering due to soil erosion, settlement or tree roots. Let me know if that makes sense.
@@gregvancom I see what you mean Greg. I like your videos btw. On the subject of preventing slabs shifting around, in places where tree roots are not an issue, I know of one contractor where i live (where ground freezes over a foot deep at times) who dug down and poured 4 concrete piers below the grade where his adjacent pads are going to be poured, this way when the pads lift and shift around in a freeze, they will be able to drop back to plumb once the ground thawes out again. I really liked the sound of the idea and wondered how common this process is. I would guess they leave the top of the pier just slightly above the height of the top of the gravel bed that's going to be the base for the concrete pad, then they pour the concrete pad on top of that after the piers cure. I didnt see it done myself but it seemed like a decent idea. I was thinking they could just embedd a short stainless steel bar so that it sticks up a couple inches out of the top of the pier when its cured, that way the slab has something to ride on and keep it directly in line with its pier base. The process must also involve placing a membrane (like paper or something else dissolvable) over piers before the pad is poured over them so that they will not interonnect. It would be cool if you created an illustration of this process (if you approve of the idea).
@@jeremybaumgart I don't know if any sense, but all footings need to be poured below the frost lines in the area, to prevent them from lifting. Let me know if this makes sense and I am going to put your suggestion on my list of videos to be made in the future.
Its funny how people are saying you cant pour in sections, yet its done all the time on Interstate highways…when they actually get around to doing it😂
What about expansion joints?... shouldn't there be some space between the dry pads and the newly poured wet pads to accommodate the expanding of the pads against each other ?
As far as expansion joints go, I would look around the area where you live and if everyone has expansion joints in the driveway, then I would put them in yours and if they don't, then they might not be needed.
Absolutely, great explanation. Love the graphics. It can be done, with some elbow grease, persistence and general understanding of how concreate works. Now, if one would challenge is it as strong as single pour? Is the mix consistent. temp. variation? Etc.... Well, for what I'm doing, sidewalk, and a patio for general use such as table and chairs, grill, it will work great. Price wise I'm not saving much by mixing my own mix, because, a delivery truck would be about the same. However, I would have to hire a helper, and the distance I would have to haul the concrete is not the choice I want to make. I have time, and will pour in sections, in 4 separate pours, I'll have my project complete.
Let's see if this helps. Is the concrete company bringing you the left over concrete from the previous job? Is it going to take them longer than one hour to get to your project? Can you mix similar batches of concrete? Do you want to mix it or purchase it already mixed? Your question would be difficult for me to answer, without knowing all of the variables. Let me know if this doesn't make sense.
nice
Lovely views thanks for sharing knowledge very cool
You're absolutely welcome and thanks for watching.
Awesome thanks for the really helpful tips!
Hi could I theoretically just cut the rebar to fit in each section so I wouldn’t have to notch out any forms ?
And about more then half of my drive is already concrete and half is grass but I’m getting ponding from my back alleyway bc I’m below the asphalt (which is owned by city) so I’m going to raise it another 4 inches and widen it another 4 feet . Should I use bonding product for parts over existing concrete ?
VERY NICE!!
Can this method be done for flat work. Like doing a floor inside my shop?
Yes, but some flat work doesn't have control joints. If you don't mind having control joints, then absolutely.
Do you need rebar if you are pouring a pad for a shed? My instincts say yes but I wanted to make sure.
Great video! How would you go about pouring a slab if you have 4 walls. Exemple: you have a crawl space and you pour concrete. How do you screed ? Do you put anything between concrete and the walls ?
I don't have a video on that yet, but put it on my list.
Super!👍🏻 thank you !
You're welcome and thanks for watching.
ty
When the concrete is done section by section like you demonstrated in this video; once the first concrete section is done, do you place a ‘form’ on the side of the already set concrete? Or does the concrete acting as the form? I'm just wondering as if you used a piece of timber as the form wouldn't it have a big gap between each section of concrete?
The new concrete slab can be used as your form.
have you mixed latex into any of your solution mixes?
one of the best videos, my question how to create a slope for example on a patio back yard with sections thanks
You would need to build the forms accordingly. Instead of the forms being level, make sure that they are sloping. Let me know if you need more information or if you're having a difficult time figuring out how to install forms so that they are draining water away from your building.
A very typical drop of 1/4" per foot. That will shed water fine.
Watched a video of a guy who did a trick with the string you use to initially lay out your outline...
Can u do rebar in each section alone or does the rebar need to join the sections.
Doing big slab in small sections but don't want rebar laying out till who knows when I could get to next section. Thanks in advance..
i will be doing a wet pour diy for a 16x12 pad ... in between slabs.. doing it this way .. will the joints be ok or will they shift???
7:00 I just realized that I can rip that board down less the amount I need for the rebar to fit. Then use screws to press them together. No warped board issue to deal with. More cement may come out this way. But does not matter. It won't be seen. The next section will hide it. I may expose only 5" of the rebar. Then weld, or tie, the next piece before when I go to do the next section. I can just see myself or others tripping on the rebar. SAFETY FIRST.
Definitely another method that can be used.
Could you rebar each section independently?
Yes, but it won't provide the same structural support.
Rounded edges also reduce edge chipping by reducing stress concentration. The saw-cut intersections crack/chip.
Very good point and from what I've noticed when saw cutting is that if it does chip it usually isn't a very large one. I personally like rounded edges myself, but if I was doing a large concrete driveway, might choose to have it cut later, to save myself all of that finishing if I was pouring it all at once.
what about a house slab with footings? also would I have to come back with a saw to cut joints between them? Or is the trowel enough to mark joints before the concrete dries?
could you make 4 separate rebar grids instead of one full one?
ua-cam.com/video/GT_tHy2ZNv4/v-deo.html this should help.
What about in my case I need to do a driveway up a steep hill that leads up to my home. I was thinking about doing 2 lanes I guess 3 ft wide each side to accommodate different widths of vehicles and wide enough to ride my motorcycle up one side or the other. I would be mixing from bags and would like to know what the smallest sections I could get away with would be?? Heck maybe 2.5 ft with per land would work. Either way I plan to add rebar that connects each pour with the prior pour. Would Ike to do it in small sections where I could mix up a section everytime I have the time to do so quickly. What’s the smallest sections you would recommend being ok?? And how thick would I need to be as well?? I would be working my way up a fairly long hill. Heck if I got a good Rhythm going maybe I could do my whole driveway which would be a couple hundred ft. Could I do 2.5x3ft sections at a time?? Or perhaps 2.5x4ft? If I was able to complete 4ft every week I could get it done in a summer. Still have to decide on my width for each lane but feel like 3ft each lane would be overkill so maybe 2.5’??
Might be beneficial in high slope situations.