I've had an issue twice with my Lt15 now producing wavy cuts from the drive belt tension loosening. Tightened it back to the correct pounds per inch and it fixed it.
The only time we use to let the tension off a blade is when we changed the blade we did that for 20 years with out a problem my new mill now I loosen it off every time because they say to but we never used to
Yep this video is 3 years old. I just bought a EZ Boardwalk 40 . First log was beautifully cut. 2 days later, I loaded a awesome maple. And guess what,,,,,,,wavy cuts. My ignorance stood out strong. I went back to the maintenance and operating instructions, I found where it says always remove tension from blade !!!! I did what I accuse my wife of all the time, not reading the info.. But just for arguments sake ,,, I just won't tell her about this one.
Wow. Very informative on the wood mizer saw and the affect of tension on the blades. I am ordering mine next week. Decided to go with the LT- 15. Thank you.
I got a wavy cut the other day and I'm 100% sure it was caused by not enough tension on the blade. To make matters worse, I did a couple cuts with the lubricant off - which would have heated the blade, causing it to get longer and have even less tension. I wouldn't be surprised if the blade under tension for 5 days stretched a bit and wasn't as tight when you made that wavy cut with it.
I have come to the conclusion that 3 things cause wavy cuts. 1 is a dull blade, 2. moving to fast thru the cut, 3. A log with very hard and multiple knots.
@@josaljo1 If you have a sharp blade, are cutting slow and get waves, check your blade tension. Certainly a knot will help a blade deviate - if it's possible for it to deviate - like if it's dull, or not tight enough. Also - a dull blade would generate more heat and end up looser. Calling a blade dull and changing it will result in re-adjusting tension too just by default. I wonder what the tolerances are for blade length - mine takes 158" blades, but if a blade was 158.125 or 157.875 - would it still go out the door? It would make a big difference on the resulting tension.
JO I have been cutting oak and pine on my Woodland Mills HM126 since 20113. I run into wavy cuts when the blade gets dull and I push to hard on the saw head to keep the speed up. As soon as i see the wavy cut on the wood pile i put on a new blade and get right back to straight cuts. Works every time. I like your wood dryer. Pete
Yes, I have done the same thing. My problem was that the blade was newly put on left to sit in tension for 4 days and then when I made my first cut it was all wavy. Thanks for the comment.
You can mix dish detergent and a cup of Pinesol in the water to reduce sap or tar build up on your blade and rollers. The guys around here saw alot of Pine logs.The Old growth yeller pines have alot of tar in them. This helps.
It is believed that the bend from the tension being around the wheels causes the blade to retain that memory and the blade hopes around if you dont take the tension off at night. I would say that it true, if you leave tension on for more than 3 days. So I always take the tension off every night.
hmmmm, I think the effect of any distortion caused by sitting idle under tension for a few days would only have an effect within one rotation of the blade. Not over a distance of two feet and many full rotations of the blade. I am more inclined to think, the wavy cut is due more to not enough tension and a blade that arrived not properly sharpened so it followed the curvy path of the grain of the log. Perhaps make a cut in a different log to see if it waves there. Just my thoughts, interesting question. George.
the emogulos of elasticity to the decimal point × equal squared , offer the cut boards to skate boarders, you will get millions in no time. easy cant peavy .
I had the same issue when I first started using my saw. I learned my lesson and take the blade off every time I stop running for the day. I know it has it written in my woodland mills book. That's a lesson learned.
The instructions I have for my mill say to release the tension when the mill is not in use for any extended period of time. I think it has a lot to do with wearing a flat spot on the tire that goes around the wheels and possibly affecting the blade. I find the best thing to do is take the blade off my mill and hang it up at the end of the day.
Not sure how I missed this one, but I came across it while looking at my list. I've watched a ton of other brand saw mill videos and they all say to relieve the tension when not in use. Old news today. I hated watching this video because of seeing the snow on the ground. I hate to think of seeing Winter so soon since we had such a bad one this past season!
Thanks for your explanation on wavey cuts......I've been sawing with my lt15 for over a decade and am really baffled.....we recently had a big wind storm in Maine and I've been helping neighbors with their blow down white pine......after changing to a new blade on one day everything was fine.......next day after a 20 degree drop I got a really wavy cut......I've been blaming dull blades, knots, me and who knows what for a long time....I've always left my blade tensioned......thank you
Hello Joe, The temp in Tulsa today hit 84 according to my cell phone. I work in the aircraft manufacturing industry and we have to control temp at 70 +/_ 10 deg. Our aluminum and steel tooling grows and contracts with the temp changes and we see that if the temps exceed the tolerance. Very interesting. Funny how tension and temp affect metal.
84, that is the highest temp we had all year. It is also funny that someone would think of this and then come up with the formulas to predict the outcome.
On your mill: Sharpen, clean and reset the teeth on the blade, check the tension on the blade, and clean your drive wheel belt's, and guide roller's: The blade being in tension dose not mater, I've left them in tension all the time with no problem's, at all temp's just let the mill run for a few minuets, to warm up all your moving parts with your lube on, with the additive in your lube or a little dish soap to clean thing's.
just as much as the elasticity thing discussed, there is such a thing as "matter memory". The real problem is that the saw has been sitting idle for too long. If you had been cutting for five days straight, you would never experience this problem. The thing is that the blade "remembers" the tension areas, which are not equal on the suspended blade and over the wheels. But since it has been sitting in tension, the blade has sort of gotten used to sitting like that, meaning some parts of the blade have stretched more than others, and as a consequence, will no longer cut properly. the flats and the bends are permanent, even when running over the wheels, though it will most likely only show in the suspended part, where the cutting is done. As a carpenter, I have always been told to release tension on my sawblades, whether an old school frame saw or a hack saw. it has just become second nature, whenever a piece of suspended tensile steel is in play - you, good sir, just perfectly proved the point. If you take a look at the commercial video for the Serra Alpina 90, they make it a point to show the blade being mounted and put in tension during setup of the mobile mill. no explanation. It's just the way it is.
same effect happens with a 2x 72 belt sander if left in tension ,,,, causing the belt to dance on the wheels and sand at a elliptical fashion ,,, im sure if that blade was video taped you would see it dance on the wheels of the mill and if laid on it back edge on a flat surface it would not sit flat like a new unused blade ,,, but elliptical, like the belt you showed ,, tenshion is not equal across a blade or belt thus causing one edge to stretch some what
Sorry, but the blade being left in tension does not matter.If a bandsaw blade produces a wavy cut.It is the blade at fault,that’s it.Warm the machine up for a few minutes.Then if you have a wavy cut,It’s the blade.When you get to the basics,what else could it be.You have a great Machine.No wear and tear.There is only one thing it can be.
Did you ever figure out what you had going on? If the blade was brand new, the tension may have been much too low or you could be dealing with a half frozen log which will make the blade dip and dive.
Yes it wasnt the frozen wood my problem It was that I had a load of trees that had nails in them and screwed up the set on the blades bad. Real bad. I had a hard time hearing when the blade it the nails.
You are not dealing with the Metal Elasticity of the Blade as much as you are seeing the effects of the Metal Memory. Two sections of the Blade were kept Under tension for an extended period of time in a curved position while two other sections were maintained in a Straight Position. It is sort of like the Soft Rubber Compound Tires, if they remain stationary for too long, they will develop flat spots. If you had run the blade for a while without attempting to cut anything and allow the blade to warm up a bit, you probably wouldn't have had the undesirable results. Another thing to take into consideration is that the portion of the Blade that was on the Curved Areas would most likely had the Set of the Teeth Adversely Effected, thus Compounding the Problem.......
I had the same thing happen on my LT40 yesterday on a frozen log. I had just put the blade on. I was going to fast. I backed off the speed and it fixed itself. If this was the shape of the blade wouldn't the bends in the way the blades are packaged be a problem?
I dont think that packaging would be a problem because there is not that much stress like when in tension. I dont have problems with frozen logs yet. Thanks for the comment. I guess we need to keep an eye and ear to what we are doing to know all the answers.
Would the blade not change when the temperature changes also? If you start using the saw with a cold blade then it warms up during cutting it would change tension?
Jo, I think you're way off on this one. Was the log frozen when you made the first cut? If it was frozen then you need a tooth angle of about 4 - 6 degrees or you'll get wavy cuts just like that if you use the same blade that you mill pine with. I mill mostly white oak and all my wide cuts looked like that until I reshaped the blades to 6 degrees of angle.
My white oak (Post Oak) is so hard to cut that a 10 degree blade will produce wavy boards like that every time! I reground my blades to 6 degrees and get flat cuts until the blade begins to dull and the waves return. I'm going to try stiffer blades and maybe wider blades (1 1/2 inches) to keep the blade flat in the cut, but the tooth angle was the key for me.
Thanks for the comment. Here is the crazy thing, The biggest log I cut was white oak I think the cant after trimming was 18" wide, At the time I cut it I had just put a new blade on. It cut that thing up like it was pine no waves or nothing bad. But this bad cut came after keeping the tension on for 5 days.
It wasnt frozen but I have been told to slow down and I have done that. I really believe it was keeping the tension on the belt for the 6 days. Thanks for your comment.
ya, you got to let the blade do its job and not push so hard,,,if your having to push so hard that your getting wavy cuts, then sharpen the blade or replace it
I’m not certain of this but most every bandsaw I have seen has a molded compliant material for the blade to run on. I believe the issue would be the material on the wheels took a set verse the blade. In effect the wheels were running out of round and when you removed the suspect blade the wheels compliant material regained its relaxed state after few untensioned temperature cycles. I would run a new blade for bit ( as you have) and then reinstalled the suspect blade to verify.
Judd _S speed,feed,tension,sharpness,set and band mill wheel trueness and concentricity all have effects but having tension on a blade for that time is correct.
i like obsessive i always cut my logs and bark with one blad then change two a new blad for the finish lumber the bark will slow and eat blades just a tip that worked for me
you half to get a sharpener it will improve your life there not cheep but think you could have one made or look for a used one the blades can not be sharpened with a file they need to be ground like a skate blade its a real fine cut you must notice it with your new blades. not a critic
Not sure but all things considered, my blade was pushed or pushing back against the rollers too much on the dull side of the blade. I've come to look at it like a sewing machine lol. A fine saw and finicky too. On a hacksaw, if things are loose, kinked, bent, dull, sticky, or you angle your hand, because the blade is so narrow, you will have wavy cuts. Just my thoughts on it. Thank you for the belt visual, I can see how that might factor in. Someone said warming up the blade may be a cure, I'ma try that next time for whatever reason the dreaded wave decides to attack again. It breaks my heart to see a beautiful can't all wavy like this.
I know the feeling especially when there is no flaw in the wood and you get a wavy cut. I really believe that the tension should be off when not in use. Also, a nice sharp blade, and enter the cut slowly to start. Thanks for the comment.
Then your the guy I want to talk to. Does keeping tension on the blade hurt it. And, is there any reason why sharpening with a file is not a good idea?
tension load expatiation all makes seance a lot of mill owners have had the same experience over the years if a spring is added two the tension the blad dose not take all the abuse and can relax after load stops blad cracking as well we learn as we go engineers build them owners fix them
Casey De Watch the video again... Turn up the volume and drink some coffee AND LISTEN!!! I KNOW IT HAD BERN A LONG TIME SINCE YOU HAVE BEEN IN SCHOOL, Listen 👂 = LEARN
Sorry I already sent it when I though of the cantilever formula of joists. The force on the bottom will be thousands of pounds. You need to go much deeper with the-vertical support ! I’m thinking at least 3’
I don't own a wood mizer and I know that tension should be removed when not in use. If you have questions about equipment, go to the source! Call or Email Wood Mizer about your problem. Did you try another new blade after realizing you left tension on previous one for 5 days? If you got a beef with Wood Mizer, call them. Your going about this using You Tube to get empathy for your mistake. Take responsibility and move on.
Obviously you dont know me, empathy is not what I need I am offering the public what happens for real. I need nothing from anyone else. I am self made with blessings from God. But I am smart enough to share with those not looking for a place to voice their mistakes my friend.
I've had an issue twice with my Lt15 now producing wavy cuts from the drive belt tension loosening. Tightened it back to the correct pounds per inch and it fixed it.
The only time we use to let the tension off a blade is when we changed the blade we did that for 20 years with out a problem my new mill now I loosen it off every time because they say to but we never used to
Yep this video is 3 years old. I just bought a EZ Boardwalk 40 . First log was beautifully cut. 2 days later, I loaded a awesome maple. And guess what,,,,,,,wavy cuts. My ignorance stood out strong. I went back to the maintenance and operating instructions, I found where it says always remove tension from blade !!!! I did what I accuse my wife of all the time, not reading the info..
But just for arguments sake ,,, I just won't tell her about this one.
And keep the blades sharp.
Warming up your mill for a few minutes before cutting sounds reasonable to avoid this dilemma in the future.
Wow. Very informative on the wood mizer saw and the affect of tension on the blades. I am ordering mine next week. Decided to go with the LT- 15. Thank you.
I got a wavy cut the other day and I'm 100% sure it was caused by not enough tension on the blade. To make matters worse, I did a couple cuts with the lubricant off - which would have heated the blade, causing it to get longer and have even less tension. I wouldn't be surprised if the blade under tension for 5 days stretched a bit and wasn't as tight when you made that wavy cut with it.
I have come to the conclusion that 3 things cause wavy cuts. 1 is a dull blade, 2. moving to fast thru the cut, 3. A log with very hard and multiple knots.
@@josaljo1 If you have a sharp blade, are cutting slow and get waves, check your blade tension. Certainly a knot will help a blade deviate - if it's possible for it to deviate - like if it's dull, or not tight enough. Also - a dull blade would generate more heat and end up looser. Calling a blade dull and changing it will result in re-adjusting tension too just by default. I wonder what the tolerances are for blade length - mine takes 158" blades, but if a blade was 158.125 or 157.875 - would it still go out the door? It would make a big difference on the resulting tension.
Thanks for adding this video to the many many that are out there...Very good job...Im ordering a T15 in January..
Thank you John, if you like working you will love the lt15.
Do you have a video on your sharpening a blade
JO
I have been cutting oak and pine on my Woodland Mills HM126 since 20113. I run into wavy cuts when the blade gets dull and I push to hard on the saw head to keep the speed up. As soon as i see the wavy cut on the wood pile i put on a new blade and get right back to straight cuts. Works every time.
I like your wood dryer.
Pete
Yes, I have done the same thing. My problem was that the blade was newly put on left to sit in tension for 4 days and then when I made my first cut it was all wavy. Thanks for the comment.
goldassayer93555 Yup, no doubt the blade is dull. I just sharpen them on the mill and get right back to cutting.
You can mix dish detergent and a cup of Pinesol in the water to reduce sap or tar build up on your blade and rollers. The guys around here saw alot of Pine logs.The Old growth yeller pines have alot of tar in them. This helps.
Thank you for the lesson, one of youtuber said take off tenion. I needed to know why.
It is believed that the bend from the tension being around the wheels causes the blade to retain that memory and the blade hopes around if you dont take the tension off at night. I would say that it true, if you leave tension on for more than 3 days. So I always take the tension off every night.
hmmmm, I think the effect of any distortion caused by sitting idle under tension for a few days would only have an effect within one rotation of the blade. Not over a distance of two feet and many full rotations of the blade. I am more inclined to think, the wavy cut is due more to not enough tension and a blade that arrived not properly sharpened so it followed the curvy path of the grain of the log. Perhaps make a cut in a different log to see if it waves there. Just my thoughts, interesting question. George.
Yes after working with this for a while, I would have to say a dull blade, very hard knots, and moving to fast through the cut can cause bad cuts.
@@josaljo1 Makes sense. I like the way you think things through.
hoof prints on the ground do not always mean zebras just went by. Sometimes it was simply horses. An old friend of mine told me that..
@@trimbaker1893 Sounds like the reason I don't believe it, when the scientist talk about millions of years ago.
the emogulos of elasticity to the decimal point × equal squared , offer the cut boards to skate boarders, you will get millions in no time. easy cant peavy .
I had the same issue when I first started using my saw. I learned my lesson and take the blade off every time I stop running for the day. I know it has it written in my woodland mills book. That's a lesson learned.
I cannot find it in my book, some of the comments say it is not so. You believe the sawblade should not stay in tension then?
The instructions I have for my mill say to release the tension when the mill is not in use for any extended period of time. I think it has a lot to do with wearing a flat spot on the tire that goes around the wheels and possibly affecting the blade. I find the best thing to do is take the blade off my mill and hang it up at the end of the day.
I am using science to say the same thing. Thank You.
when cutting pine add a small amount of pine sol floor cleaner to the blade lube water. it will cut down on pine pitch buildup on the blade
Thanks for the tip.
Yes, pine pitch is the problem, you can try only clean theet, both sides, and it will works fine, (excuse my english).
I used to work in a sawmill. Your log was frozen. That's why it came out wavy.
I agree.
I saw frozen logs all winter with no trouble
My log in my LT15 had the identical problem in summer... definitely not frozen.
Yes
Not to mention the stress on the bearings in tension. I never leave a blade on my mill even overnight.
Not sure how I missed this one, but I came across it while looking at my list. I've watched a ton of other brand saw mill videos and they all say to relieve the tension when not in use. Old news today. I hated watching this video because of seeing the snow on the ground. I hate to think of seeing Winter so soon since we had such a bad one this past season!
Just want to say it’s just crazy that leaving in tension is doin that
Thanks for your explanation on wavey cuts......I've been sawing with my lt15 for over a decade and am really baffled.....we recently had a big wind storm in Maine and I've been helping neighbors with their blow down white pine......after changing to a new blade on one day everything was fine.......next day after a 20 degree drop I got a really wavy cut......I've been blaming dull blades, knots, me and who knows what for a long time....I've always left my blade tensioned......thank you
Thank you for the comment. Glad it helped.
Always release tension , says so in the owners manual.
I never take the tension off at all.
Hello Joe,
The temp in Tulsa today hit 84 according to my cell phone. I work in the aircraft manufacturing industry and we have to control temp at 70 +/_ 10 deg. Our aluminum and steel tooling grows and contracts with the temp changes and we see that if the temps exceed the tolerance. Very interesting. Funny how tension and temp affect metal.
84, that is the highest temp we had all year. It is also funny that someone would think of this and then come up with the formulas to predict the outcome.
I have had blades do the same on my norwood and I think it was due to heat and pitch (sap) maybe not enough water on the blade
It was a dull blade from hitting a nail.
Lots of variables that I had not considered.
I put a new blade on my LT 15 and cut a red oak, it did the same thing but it was because i didn't have the water flow up enough.
You used a brand new blade? Do you know the thickness of the blade?
On your mill: Sharpen, clean and reset the teeth on the blade, check the tension on the blade, and clean your drive wheel belt's, and guide roller's: The blade being in tension dose not mater, I've left them in tension all the time with no problem's, at all temp's just let the mill run for a few minuets, to warm up all your moving parts with your lube on, with the additive in your lube or a little dish soap to clean thing's.
just as much as the elasticity thing discussed, there is such a thing as "matter memory". The real problem is that the saw has been sitting idle for too long. If you had been cutting for five days straight, you would never experience this problem. The thing is that the blade "remembers" the tension areas, which are not equal on the suspended blade and over the wheels. But since it has been sitting in tension, the blade has sort of gotten used to sitting like that, meaning some parts of the blade have stretched more than others, and as a consequence, will no longer cut properly. the flats and the bends are permanent, even when running over the wheels, though it will most likely only show in the suspended part, where the cutting is done.
As a carpenter, I have always been told to release tension on my sawblades, whether an old school frame saw or a hack saw. it has just become second nature, whenever a piece of suspended tensile steel is in play - you, good sir, just perfectly proved the point.
If you take a look at the commercial video for the Serra Alpina 90, they make it a point to show the blade being mounted and put in tension during setup of the mobile mill. no explanation. It's just the way it is.
I agree with your comment, thank you for it.
same effect happens with a 2x 72 belt sander if left in tension ,,,, causing the belt to dance on the wheels and sand at a elliptical fashion ,,, im sure if that blade was video taped you would see it dance on the wheels of the mill and if laid on it back edge on a flat surface it would not sit flat like a new unused blade ,,, but elliptical, like the belt you showed ,, tenshion is not equal across a blade or belt thus causing one edge to stretch some what
I find that as the blade dulls I have to feed slower, not push harder to keep the cut straight.
wakely wanderer I do the same thing, especially when trying to finish a cant. Thanks for the comment.
Sorry, but the blade being left in tension does not matter.If a bandsaw blade produces a wavy cut.It is the blade at fault,that’s it.Warm the machine up for a few minutes.Then if you have a wavy cut,It’s the blade.When you get to the basics,what else could it be.You have a great Machine.No wear and tear.There is only one thing it can be.
Don Lunn How often do you cut, and when you cut, do you change the blade every 500 board feet or less?
Thanks again jo
yes general purpose blades, when I cut slow thats when it dipped cuting faster didn't dip
Dont mind me asking but do you keep the roller guides as close together as possible when cutting?
I haven't seen anything in my book about it but the person who trained me on my LT35 told me to always release the blade tension when finished sawing.
Thank You very much for this comment, since I started taking the tension off at night; all the cuts are straight.
Slow the feed rate as the blade wears
Did you ever figure out what you had going on? If the blade was brand new, the tension may have been much too low or you could be dealing with a half frozen log which will make the blade dip and dive.
Yes it wasnt the frozen wood my problem It was that I had a load of trees that had nails in them and screwed up the set on the blades bad. Real bad. I had a hard time hearing when the blade it the nails.
You’re talking about plastic deformation. It happens when you exceed limits of elasticity.
You are not dealing with the Metal Elasticity of the Blade as much as you are seeing the effects of the Metal Memory.
Two sections of the Blade were kept Under tension for an extended period of time in a curved position while two other sections were maintained in a Straight Position.
It is sort of like the Soft Rubber Compound Tires, if they remain stationary for too long, they will develop flat spots.
If you had run the blade for a while without attempting to cut anything and allow the blade to warm up a bit, you probably wouldn't have had the undesirable results.
Another thing to take into consideration is that the portion of the Blade that was on the Curved Areas would most likely had the Set of the Teeth Adversely Effected, thus Compounding the Problem.......
If the tree was hit with lighting will cause a wave cut.
I had the same thing happen on my LT40 yesterday on a frozen log. I had just put the blade on. I was going to fast. I backed off the speed and it fixed itself. If this was the shape of the blade wouldn't the bends in the way the blades are packaged be a problem?
I dont think that packaging would be a problem because there is not that much stress like when in tension. I dont have problems with frozen logs yet. Thanks for the comment. I guess we need to keep an eye and ear to what we are doing to know all the answers.
I also believe that the grain of the lumber sometimes affects a cut.
its the rubber tires that take on a shape.
If a log is half frozen it will cause a blade to do this.
Water?
Would the blade not change when the temperature changes also? If you start using the saw with a cold blade then it warms up during cutting it would change tension?
I should've finished listening to you before asking my first question.
We know temperature affects the metal, that is why the blade needs to be sharp. It happens.
You took 20 minutes to explain a 4 minutes point...I'd like a buck for all the repetition....good point but way to much talking.
Jo, I think you're way off on this one. Was the log frozen when you made the first cut? If it was frozen then you need a tooth angle of about 4 - 6 degrees or you'll get wavy cuts just like that if you use the same blade that you mill pine with. I mill mostly white oak and all my wide cuts looked like that until I reshaped the blades to 6 degrees of angle.
It was cold but not enough to freeze the log. Are you saying you need the 4-6 hook angle even if the white oak is not frozen?
My white oak (Post Oak) is so hard to cut that a 10 degree blade will produce wavy boards like that every time! I reground my blades to 6 degrees and get flat cuts until the blade begins to dull and the waves return. I'm going to try stiffer blades and maybe wider blades (1 1/2 inches) to keep the blade flat in the cut, but the tooth angle was the key for me.
Thanks for the comment. Here is the crazy thing, The biggest log I cut was white oak I think the cant after trimming was 18" wide, At the time I cut it I had just put a new blade on. It cut that thing up like it was pine no waves or nothing bad. But this bad cut came after keeping the tension on for 5 days.
I keep them as close as I can
Are you sure it wasn't a frozen log and too fast feed speed ? I've sawed millions of board feet of lumber and that's what it looks like to me .
It wasnt frozen but I have been told to slow down and I have done that. I really believe it was keeping the tension on the belt for the 6 days. Thanks for your comment.
I put it as close as I can
ya, you got to let the blade do its job and not push so hard,,,if your having to push so hard that your getting wavy cuts, then sharpen the blade or replace it
war dawg I agree with that. Cant cut with a duul blade. Thanks for the comment.
,,if your having to push so hard that your getting wavy cuts, then sharpen the blade or replace it
I’m not certain of this but most every bandsaw I have seen has a molded compliant material for the blade to run on. I believe the issue would be the material on the wheels took a set verse the blade. In effect the wheels were running out of round and when you removed the suspect blade the wheels compliant material regained its relaxed state after few untensioned temperature cycles.
I would run a new blade for bit ( as you have) and then reinstalled the suspect blade to verify.
Good idea, I am going to try that. Thanks for the comment.
Judd _S speed,feed,tension,sharpness,set and band mill wheel trueness and concentricity all have effects but having tension on a blade for that time is correct.
Judd _S Gullets fill full of saw dust and causes blade to hook so speed has alot to do with true cuts.
i like obsessive i always cut my logs and bark with one blad then change two a new blad for the finish lumber the bark will slow and eat blades just a tip that worked for me
I dont seem to have a problem with the bark too much but I like your idea.
you half to get a sharpener it will improve your life there not cheep but think you could have one made or look for a used one the blades can not be sharpened with a file they need to be ground like a skate blade its a real fine cut you must notice it with your new blades. not a critic
Not sure but all things considered, my blade was pushed or pushing back against the rollers too much on the dull side of the blade. I've come to look at it like a sewing machine lol. A fine saw and finicky too. On a hacksaw, if things are loose, kinked, bent, dull, sticky, or you angle your hand, because the blade is so narrow, you will have wavy cuts. Just my thoughts on it. Thank you for the belt visual, I can see how that might factor in. Someone said warming up the blade may be a cure, I'ma try that next time for whatever reason the dreaded wave decides to attack again. It breaks my heart to see a beautiful can't all wavy like this.
I know the feeling especially when there is no flaw in the wood and you get a wavy cut. I really believe that the tension should be off when not in use. Also, a nice sharp blade, and enter the cut slowly to start. Thanks for the comment.
Frozen logs or poor set.
it is a bad blead too much set on one side happen to me for many box check the seton the blade
Someone forgot to roll the tire correctly
Thank you for the comment. Something was wrong that is for sure.
Im a saw filer for 43 yrs.
Then your the guy I want to talk to. Does keeping tension on the blade hurt it. And, is there any reason why sharpening with a file is not a good idea?
tension load expatiation all makes seance a lot of mill owners have had the same experience over the years if a spring is added two the tension the blad dose not take all the abuse and can relax after load stops blad cracking as well we learn as we go engineers build them owners fix them
Isn't that the truth. Thanks for the comment.
You SIR are a pretty smart guy!!!
Thank you for the compliment and the comment.
check the tension on the blade
Casey De
Are you an idiot or what???
Is your hearing BAD???
Or are you drunk???
looks like the teeth are not set right ?
Casey De
Watch the video again...
Turn up the volume and drink some coffee
AND LISTEN!!!
I KNOW IT HAD BERN A LONG TIME SINCE YOU HAVE BEEN IN SCHOOL,
Listen 👂 = LEARN
tension.
Sorry I already sent it when I though of the cantilever formula of joists. The force on the bottom will be thousands of pounds. You need to go much deeper with the-vertical support ! I’m thinking at least 3’
Try looking online at cookssaw.com, Tim and Stephen cook are experts at troubleshooting wavy cuts. Their articles are very helpful.
James Abernathy Hi James this is an older video and the problem was solved, the blade had a kink/bend in it.
Great instructional video. Very interesting. Enjoy your coffee.
Thank you for the comment.
What about taking the blade off the saw everyday when you finish sawing for the day, and store it back into the box it came in.
There is no harm in doing what you suggest. But leaving the tension off serves the same pupose. Thank you for the comment.
I don't own a wood mizer and I know that tension should be removed when not in use.
If you have questions about equipment, go to the source!
Call or Email Wood Mizer about your problem.
Did you try another new blade after realizing you left tension on previous one for 5 days?
If you got a beef with Wood Mizer, call them. Your going about this using You Tube to get empathy for your mistake. Take responsibility and move on.
Obviously you dont know me, empathy is not what I need I am offering the public what happens for real. I need nothing from anyone else. I am self made with blessings from God. But I am smart enough to share with those not looking for a place to voice their mistakes my friend.