Man, 1980's VCR camera work along with the old editing...and I don't say that negatively, I was building cars back then, so this is a flashback for me. But the detail is utterly amazing, like cutting open a main cap to show oil flow.
Wow i'm learning so much more than when I was a kid in high school auto shop..We were assemblers is all back then..Thanks so much for all the cool ideas of block readiness.
@@marvinhindman1790 Let me help you understand HAS ANYONE TRIED THE 3/4 plug ( ie 3/4” NPT: “ means inch NPT National pipe thread) Tip on block before ( meaning someone who has actually performed this procedure on their on block or anyone else block). So please share your extensive knowledge and expertise. I would like to educated. Sincerely and thank you for you comment. So now you can comment on your amazing wisdom and educate me an the rest of the UA-cam channel. …. I am waiting Oh in case it wasn’t clear coolant passage is proper term. Idiot
I am just getting started on your video's and love everything so far, but did notice that you goofed at about the 25:40 time mark. The transfer paper is a great idea, but you showed it incorrectly. The surface of the main cap should have been flipped to lay against the bearing register. I am sure you know and do this normally, but for people learning from you, this was done incorrectly. I don't know if this is something that can be corrected with type over the vid. or not as I don't know how UA-cam does this. I have already sent your link to a few others who can use them.. Great job !!!!!!!
When I see these late model dirt engines make over 700hp from less than 420cubic inches .. You never know what some hillbillies can do when they get together with their mills and flow benches
totally disagree with the lifter valley oil flo . I want 100% of my oil to be dropping on my flat tappet cam and lifters . I will freeze plug the forward holes going to the timing chain and close off the rear valley casting hole on the rear of the lifter valley and double the holes along the cam center to allow all oil to be returned to the oil pan by way of the cam and lifters .
@@philipmazzuca2269 I am sincere in my gratitude that you took the time to be clear on this issue. I would like to point out that GM only put 3 lifter valley drain holes other than the two forward to timing cover and two at the very rear. On later sbc after1967 GM decided to have one drain hole per set of lifters for a total of 8 near the lifters and the forward and rear pairs. I can not see that making the lifter valley into a shelf that may hold over a quart of oil being a benefit. I do not accept any theory which is in contradiction of basic laws of physics. And any positive or negative results must be in a stated amount a measure, before it carries any weight in my decisions.
@@philipmazzuca2269 Disregaurd most of my comment . I was replying to another video where they were plugging off the holes in the lifter valley and adding plugs or tall tubes to stop all oil from going by the cam and lifters . . Sry my bad . I will say this is a good video and is very helpful in many ways I have never considered . Appologies for the mix up .
@@fastbuzzardo4204 Race engine builders stopped oil dropping onto the cam and cranks for decades and you're telling them the opposite? Leave your street car engine close to stock since it will rarely see 5500 rpm. Race engines do a couple thousand more for long periods of time.
Man, 1980's VCR camera work along with the old editing...and I don't say that negatively, I was building cars back then, so this is a flashback for me. But the detail is utterly amazing, like cutting open a main cap to show oil flow.
Old school 80’s hot rodding goodness. I love it.
Great ideas. I have been building engines for years, but learned a number of things from these videos. Good job.
Who the hell would dislike this priceless info from years of trial and error by someone else lol Think of all the time and wasted money this saves you
the 2019 version has important updates, says throw the sbc in the garbage and get an LS motor :P lol...
@@GnarshredProductions Never!!!! lol
@@GnarshredProductions LS is for lazy Sissy fem boys
These are the types of guys ahead of the curve back in their time
Wow i'm learning so much more than when I was a kid in high school auto shop..We were assemblers is all back then..Thanks so much for all the cool ideas of block readiness.
even though these are old videos the sound and edit quality is really good reminds me of the style of car and driver stuff from motor trend
I love it. Thanks for posting this its exactly what I was looking for
Your video has been very helpful...Thanks
OK, now I miss my 86 GP even more. Had plucked the 305 and placed a RHS built 383 in it back in the mid 90's.
you can always build another
Good tips.. I'll be utilizing these tips on my Ford 302 block.
Sure would like to see the building a 12 second tpi 350 camaro video 😢 I got a friend who is a tune port fanatic
Has anyone tried the 3/4 plug tip on block before?
no!!!!! you idiot! he said 3 quarter inch pipe plugs!!!! for the gallys! good luck to you and you cracked block!
pay attention
@@marvinhindman1790
Let me help you understand HAS ANYONE TRIED THE 3/4 plug ( ie 3/4” NPT: “ means inch NPT National pipe thread) Tip on block before ( meaning someone who has actually performed this procedure on their on block or anyone else block). So please share your extensive knowledge and expertise. I would like to educated. Sincerely and thank you for you comment. So now you can comment on your amazing wisdom and educate me an the rest of the UA-cam channel. …. I am waiting
Oh in case it wasn’t clear coolant passage is proper term. Idiot
That combover tho...
It adds 5 horsepower!
Nicely radiused and removes stress risers.
I am just getting started on your video's and love everything so far, but did notice that you goofed at about the 25:40 time mark. The transfer paper is a great idea, but you showed it incorrectly. The surface of the main cap should have been flipped to lay against the bearing register. I am sure you know and do this normally, but for people learning from you, this was done incorrectly. I don't know if this is something that can be corrected with type over the vid. or not as I don't know how UA-cam does this.
I have already sent your link to a few others who can use them.. Great job !!!!!!!
When I see these late model dirt engines make over 700hp from less than 420cubic inches .. You never know what some hillbillies can do when they get together with their mills and flow benches
So, has this block already been hot tanked and square decked?
OLD SCHOOL stuff here, anyone have an idea when this was made? I remember 'cam dynamics' name and the 'slant plug' small block heads
I'm thinking 89' to maybe 92'
25:36 cridical mistake. He transfered paper pattern incorrectly from block to main cap. This would give incorrect info to do the job correctly.
What did he use to chamfer the bolt holes using the drill?
Chamfer bit
Great videos, still have some of the old VHS tapes.
nice
no its there's no replacement for displacement
I fell asleep 4 times in first 5 minutes I had to move on
Pete Jackson gear drive is minus 20 plus horsepower over a timing chain.
We build them much better now.
9:42
LOL
this dudes killing the instructions .... but everytime he looks down I lose my shit with the hair ....im going to hell
He grew out his bangs for the big day!
totally disagree with the lifter valley oil flo . I want 100% of my oil to be dropping on my flat tappet cam and lifters . I will freeze plug the forward holes going to the timing chain and close off the rear valley casting hole on the rear of the lifter valley and double the holes along the cam center to allow all oil to be returned to the oil pan by way of the cam and lifters .
You don’t want the oil hitting the cam or the crank. Splash/sling oiling is plenty.
@@philipmazzuca2269 I am sincere in my gratitude that you took the time to be clear on this issue. I would like to point out that GM only put 3 lifter valley drain holes other than the two forward to timing cover and two at the very rear. On later sbc after1967 GM decided to have one drain hole per set of lifters for a total of 8 near the lifters and the forward and rear pairs. I can not see that making the lifter valley into a shelf that may hold over a quart of oil being a benefit. I do not accept any theory which is in contradiction of basic laws of physics. And any positive or negative results must be in a stated amount a measure, before it carries any weight in my decisions.
@@philipmazzuca2269 Disregaurd most of my comment . I was replying to another video where they were plugging off the holes in the lifter valley and adding plugs or tall tubes to stop all oil from going by the cam and lifters . . Sry my bad . I will say this is a good video and is very helpful in many ways I have never considered . Appologies for the mix up .
@@fastbuzzardo4204 Race engine builders stopped oil dropping onto the cam and cranks for decades and you're telling them the opposite? Leave your street car engine close to stock since it will rarely see 5500 rpm. Race engines do a couple thousand more for long periods of time.
😂
This is a joke right or is it the Building engines for dummies videos I've heard about but never seen
Why is it a joke?
You lost me when you said Jersey. Ain't no West Coasters gonna hear this.