I also wanted to add a big thank you for such a great DIY video. It's not a complex job but for those of us that don't wrench on a regular basis this is great. The best part is clear and simple explanations without wasting time on what should be common sense, and skipping through steps that don't need real-time instruction. Little tips and tricks help too. I'm the king of finding the most difficult and time consuming way of doing something, only to realize after I'm done that I took 4x the time I needed to. LOL For those asking or not sure about their hubs/bearings, I'm particular with my '04 but apparently not particular enough. I had ball joints and alignment done then started tracking down a slight rub (common for use stock height trucks with 285+) only to realize it wasn't a rub on left turns, it was bearings. I could feel it through the brake peddle and floor as if it was rubbing pretty good on the mud flap/fender liner on harder left turns. So the grind sounds and feels more like a pretty good rub, in my case anyway. At slow speed you may feel or hear nothing. I get nothing noticeable on right turns. I just turned 170k miles on mine and never have done any maintenance on the hubs, ie. greased the needle bearings at 60k intervals etc. It may or may not have helped, but my truck rarely sees 4x4 and otherwise is pretty light duty driven. In hind sight I'd have had the shop that did the ball joints, do u-joints, seals and hubs at the same time. I'll have new hubs on mine within 2 days (depending on parts arrival and weather) and it'll be nice to not have to stress over not being able to run down the "rub". Thank again for a great, simplified but complete video!!
Great video on how to do this job. I just pulled a bad wheel bearing off my '03 Excursion (7.3L PSD) thanks to this video. Your explanation made it easier than I thought it was going to be. New part is on order, can't wait to get back on the road. Happy Holidays!
I just did the same on my 2003 Excursion V10 4x4 last Sunday and I ran into a slight problem, all my impact sockets are heavy duty and they were too thick to get into one of the corners to remove the one of the four nuts that were holding the hub and my corded impact gun was too long to fit into that tight space. I ended up driving another family car to the auto part store and bought a super thin wall 21mm socket and I broke loose those four nuts using a long breaker bar to finish the job. It looked easy for you and It took me two and a half hours.
Same.. basically cuz mines on 38x20s and she's definitely not small so seeing the lifted excursion vs of my 250 definitely helped me realize it may not be that bad lol.. still don't wanna do it but😂🤷🏻♂️
That's one beautiful rig ya have there friend. Awesome video, well done. Question, I love those mud flaps you have on your truck. I think they make your rig look like a BIG RIG, tuff truck. Where can I get those from and what brand are they? Thanks for the video and take care bud. Thumbs up on your video.
William, I'm sorry for the late reply. They are standard 24" wide chrome hangers. They mount with two bolts and have a spring that provides some suspension to the flaps. However, I cut them narrower and bolted them directly. The flaps are standard rubber flaps trimmed down to 16" wide. The bottom weight is a standard 16" piece with no modifications. Just below the hanger, I added a 16" dual light which has running light, turn, and brake. On the outer edge, I've since added a clearance light, red for the rear flap and yellow for the front flap.
Robert, I'm sorry for the late reply. Those are the Bushwacker Cut-out flares for the F250/F350. The fronts are an identical installation to the trucks while, the rears require a slit in the fender for the door, or, moving the axle back 4".
@ Off Road Endeavor, where did you buy your high steer knuckle? Do you feel like it was worth it or was the hydro-assist a more important modification to control wander, if any?
www.offroadunlimited.com/product/195487/1999-2004-ford-super-duty-knuckle-only. Neither the knuckle or hydro assist help with the wander. Wander is controlled by a good alignment using enough caster and toe-in. This wheel package has spacers and a wide offset wheel so getting a good alignment is important. The knuckle helped more when I was at 14" lift to help with the drag link angle. The flatter you can get your drag link the better. If you have a steep drag link, when you hit a bump, you can get bump steer, which you may be referring to as wander. But with stiff 14" lift springs, there wasn't much spring travel. It is desirable to have a low angle drag link to reduce angles on the joints and reduce bump steer. The hydro assist was critical with this tire package. The wheels weigh a couple hundred pounds and have a huge offset. This puts the tire contact patch way out from the original tire scrub point, making the scrub radius greater. Scrub radius means to turn, instead of the tire spinning around the center of the tire, it travels in an arc away from the center pivot point of the ball joints, thus scrubbing along the ground as it pivots along the arc to turn. This blew all the steering joints and steering box from extra effort. The hydro assist adds a hydraulic ram directly to the axle and tie rod to provide greater assist and take pressure off the steering box. Before, I had to be rolling to turn the wheel, while still using heavy arm input. Now I can turn the wheel sitting still with one finger. I hope that helps.
The wheels are Alcoa 22.5x12.25. They are semi truck wheels. There are a few different adapter companies that you can get them from including online auctions. A internet search will be your best help.
Michael, I'm sorry for the late reply but no, it is a different process. I found another video which might help you. Here you go, ua-cam.com/video/4NxDZnZlp3s/v-deo.html
4 bolts @ 133 foot-pounds. What size are bolts for socket ? Was looking for a video for all the socket sizes to same time on job. What was your issue or problem to let you know it needed to be changed ?
I am still using the Dana 50. The outer "C"s, balljoints, and wheel bearings are all identical between the 50 and 60. There would be no benefit to upgrading to a 60 for the bearings. The 50 has a slightly smaller ring gear diameter and the axle shafts neck down at the differential. I never agree with someone saying "X" size tire needs "X" axle. It used to be popular to run 44" tires on 10 bolt fronts or on Dana 44s. It all depends on how you are using your vehicle in 4wheel drive. (How heavy is your right foot) Limited 4x4 use, loose surfaces, snow, sand, light mud, would likely never cause issues. Rock crawling, deep gooey mud, things with lots of resistance/friction may require upgrades.
@@OffRoadEndeavor "It used to be popular to run 44" tires on 10 bolt fronts or on Dana 44s." Yeah, but on >what< tho'? A D44 and 40+" tires on a 3200lb Wrangler running a 4.7 stroker or an LS3 swap is a completely different animal than an EX with PSD or a V10. I'm not saying it's impossible to get decent life out of that setup on an EX with light off-road use, but I'd sure as hell be way more paranoid the entire time. BTW, thanks for the vid.
Love the 10 lug rims on that. Beautiful build
Thanks. I like it a lot.
I also wanted to add a big thank you for such a great DIY video. It's not a complex job but for those of us that don't wrench on a regular basis this is great. The best part is clear and simple explanations without wasting time on what should be common sense, and skipping through steps that don't need real-time instruction. Little tips and tricks help too. I'm the king of finding the most difficult and time consuming way of doing something, only to realize after I'm done that I took 4x the time I needed to. LOL
For those asking or not sure about their hubs/bearings, I'm particular with my '04 but apparently not particular enough. I had ball joints and alignment done then started tracking down a slight rub (common for use stock height trucks with 285+) only to realize it wasn't a rub on left turns, it was bearings. I could feel it through the brake peddle and floor as if it was rubbing pretty good on the mud flap/fender liner on harder left turns. So the grind sounds and feels more like a pretty good rub, in my case anyway. At slow speed you may feel or hear nothing. I get nothing noticeable on right turns. I just turned 170k miles on mine and never have done any maintenance on the hubs, ie. greased the needle bearings at 60k intervals etc. It may or may not have helped, but my truck rarely sees 4x4 and otherwise is pretty light duty driven. In hind sight I'd have had the shop that did the ball joints, do u-joints, seals and hubs at the same time. I'll have new hubs on mine within 2 days (depending on parts arrival and weather) and it'll be nice to not have to stress over not being able to run down the "rub".
Thank again for a great, simplified but complete video!!
Thank you. I appreciate you sharing your experience too and hope others gain some knowledge from it.
Best instructional video I’ve ever used! Spot on!
I appreciate it. Glad it helped.
Great video on how to do this job. I just pulled a bad wheel bearing off my '03 Excursion (7.3L PSD) thanks to this video. Your explanation made it easier than I thought it was going to be. New part is on order, can't wait to get back on the road. Happy Holidays!
Great work in your detailed naratives. I have a 2001 F350 Super Duty I have had since new. Will use alot of your ideas for it. Thanks😊
Thanks, I appreciate the feedback. I hope it helps you.
I just did the same on my 2003 Excursion V10 4x4 last Sunday and I ran into a slight problem, all my impact sockets are heavy duty and they were too thick to get into one of the corners to remove the one of the four nuts that were holding the hub and my corded impact gun was too long to fit into that tight space. I ended up driving another family car to the auto part store and bought a super thin wall 21mm socket and I broke loose those four nuts using a long breaker bar to finish the job. It looked easy for you and It took me two and a half hours.
Sorry you had trouble with it but glad you were able to get it fixed.
Great video. Great job with the editing, subtitles. It’s going to help me a lot when I do mine. Thank you bro.
Thanks for the compliment. Very happy to help. Hope yours goes well.
Same.. basically cuz mines on 38x20s and she's definitely not small so seeing the lifted excursion vs of my 250 definitely helped me realize it may not be that bad lol.. still don't wanna do it but😂🤷🏻♂️
Excellent video, thank you for this!
You're welcome! Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment.
Nice, thanks!
You're welcome! 😁
Great video. Best one out there. Thanks
I appreciate the compliment. Thanks you.
That's one beautiful rig ya have there friend. Awesome video, well done. Question, I love those mud flaps you have on your truck. I think they make your rig look like a BIG RIG, tuff truck. Where can I get those from and what brand are they? Thanks for the video and take care bud. Thumbs up on your video.
William, I'm sorry for the late reply. They are standard 24" wide chrome hangers. They mount with two bolts and have a spring that provides some suspension to the flaps. However, I cut them narrower and bolted them directly. The flaps are standard rubber flaps trimmed down to 16" wide. The bottom weight is a standard 16" piece with no modifications. Just below the hanger, I added a 16" dual light which has running light, turn, and brake. On the outer edge, I've since added a clearance light, red for the rear flap and yellow for the front flap.
What a beast!! I love your truck! What kind of fender flares do you have ?
Robert, I'm sorry for the late reply. Those are the Bushwacker Cut-out flares for the F250/F350. The fronts are an identical installation to the trucks while, the rears require a slit in the fender for the door, or, moving the axle back 4".
@ Off Road Endeavor, where did you buy your high steer knuckle? Do you feel like it was worth it or was the hydro-assist a more important modification to control wander, if any?
www.offroadunlimited.com/product/195487/1999-2004-ford-super-duty-knuckle-only.
Neither the knuckle or hydro assist help with the wander. Wander is controlled by a good alignment using enough caster and toe-in. This wheel package has spacers and a wide offset wheel so getting a good alignment is important.
The knuckle helped more when I was at 14" lift to help with the drag link angle. The flatter you can get your drag link the better. If you have a steep drag link, when you hit a bump, you can get bump steer, which you may be referring to as wander. But with stiff 14" lift springs, there wasn't much spring travel. It is desirable to have a low angle drag link to reduce angles on the joints and reduce bump steer.
The hydro assist was critical with this tire package. The wheels weigh a couple hundred pounds and have a huge offset. This puts the tire contact patch way out from the original tire scrub point, making the scrub radius greater. Scrub radius means to turn, instead of the tire spinning around the center of the tire, it travels in an arc away from the center pivot point of the ball joints, thus scrubbing along the ground as it pivots along the arc to turn. This blew all the steering joints and steering box from extra effort. The hydro assist adds a hydraulic ram directly to the axle and tie rod to provide greater assist and take pressure off the steering box. Before, I had to be rolling to turn the wheel, while still using heavy arm input. Now I can turn the wheel sitting still with one finger.
I hope that helps.
Bolt sizes/ tool sizes would have definitely helped on this but otherwise hreat video
Really like those wheels. What make and model are they? Also where did you find the 8 to 10 lug adapters?
The wheels are Alcoa 22.5x12.25. They are semi truck wheels. There are a few different adapter companies that you can get them from including online auctions. A internet search will be your best help.
Nice truck, when you added dual front shocks did you have to get them re-valves? Which brand you are using ?
Unfortunately they are not custom shocks that can be built/revalved. They are Rancho 9000 adjustable valve remote reservoir.
Is this relatively the same process for the 2wd front hub assembly replacement?
Michael, I'm sorry for the late reply but no, it is a different process. I found another video which might help you. Here you go, ua-cam.com/video/4NxDZnZlp3s/v-deo.html
How do I get the nuts in back?? Mine are against the metal walls inside for 3 of them and cant get any sockets or wrenches on them
Chris, are you referring to the four bolts at the 2:10 mark?
4 bolts @ 133 foot-pounds. What size are bolts for socket ? Was looking for a video for all the socket sizes to same time on job. What was your issue or problem to let you know it needed to be changed ?
Sorry for the delay. The nuts (on mine) take a 13/16 socket.
Do you have a video of the installation of the double shocks set up?
Nestor, I do not have a video of the dual shock setup. I may be redoing the suspension in the future and may do one then. Sorry for now.
What kind of grease did you use on the oring?
I used generic wheel bearing grease that I had in my grease gun.
What size are bolts on back of hub
Sorry for the late reply. They are a M14 x 1.5 thread pitch.
Hi did you swap from Dana 50 to d60 to run this havy wheels . Because some one told me if I want to run 40"s in me excursion in need to swap to d60 .
I am still using the Dana 50. The outer "C"s, balljoints, and wheel bearings are all identical between the 50 and 60. There would be no benefit to upgrading to a 60 for the bearings. The 50 has a slightly smaller ring gear diameter and the axle shafts neck down at the differential. I never agree with someone saying "X" size tire needs "X" axle. It used to be popular to run 44" tires on 10 bolt fronts or on Dana 44s. It all depends on how you are using your vehicle in 4wheel drive. (How heavy is your right foot) Limited 4x4 use, loose surfaces, snow, sand, light mud, would likely never cause issues. Rock crawling, deep gooey mud, things with lots of resistance/friction may require upgrades.
Off Road Religion am using it on sand only I'll re gear it to 5+ with diff locks
And supercharge the v10 .
@@OffRoadEndeavor
"It used to be popular to run 44" tires on 10 bolt fronts or on Dana 44s."
Yeah, but on >what< tho'?
A D44 and 40+" tires on a 3200lb Wrangler running a 4.7 stroker or an LS3 swap is a completely different animal than an EX with PSD or a V10.
I'm not saying it's impossible to get decent life out of that setup on an EX with light off-road use, but I'd sure as hell be way more paranoid the entire time.
BTW, thanks for the vid.
Thought it was just a bearing swap not the whole hub.
Ford changed to the unit bearing design in 1999.
@offroadreligion what are the specs on those tires?
The tires are Hercules 385/65/22.5. Wheels are Alcoa 22.5x12.25. I am using 8 lug to 10 lug adapters.
@@OffRoadEndeavor they look great! What axle ratio are you running for something that big?
@@junkyardkustoms 4.88 gears. The engine is the 6.0l