Interpet PF filter range: geni.us/EK5Kod At the time of making this video the filter was on offer at £21.95 with free delivery - that is a great deal and even if you don't need a new filter this will make a great back-up for your existing system. Filter Kits, Foams, Biohome, Biogravel etc: www.filterpro.co.uk (FilterPro site has links to Biohome suppliers in other countries) Eheim Mech: geni.us/lXrB7 (useful for under trays in filters which work bottom to top) Eheim Substrat Pro: geni.us/98euQaB (decent alternative to Biogravel). This is a well made filter which has a decent amount of space inside and even if you choose not to upgrade the filter it is great value. *Avoid using water conditioners which claim to bind / remove / detoxify ammonia, nitrite and nitrate as it will have a pronounced starving effect on the bacteria. When bacteria is starved the population will be low as it grows in line with the available 'food'. A normal conditioner will allow the bacteria to fully populate the whole system and take away the 'need' to add more bacteria after maintenance / water change. Most people get conned into regularly using bacteria additives and that is simply to mask the side effects from a damaging conditioner and a failing filter. A normal conditioner like Tapsafe, Aquasafe, API Stress Coat etc. is all you need when a tank is properly set up, a filter is suitably sized (and properly set up) and Nature is allowed to so what Nature does.* See below for notes on how much media is recommended for different stocking scenarios. The Q&A page of the FilterPro site has extensive notes on recommended treatments and how filtration works. Follow me on Odysee: odysee.com/$/invite/@PondGuru:0 Contact me on 07772848730 / sales@filterpro.co.uk *******(I don't do texts)******* Don't "eat ze bugs" - grow your own food and create a new system ....... you can check out my efforts to create a new system to navigate Agenda 2030 on my Thousand Yard Stare channel: ua-cam.com/channels/1pgJBGQrUfCUAhk63U5u5A.html The following videos will be useful for learning more about filtration and filter media: Sizing a canister properly and filter set up: goo.gl/om19un Looking INSIDE different filter media: goo.gl/hZWS6c Bacteria and filter media: goo.gl/123gAF How to clean an aquarium: goo.gl/bPMhvh Aquarium tips / filtration playlist: goo.gl/pXgqVj A full cycle is completed by bacteria - the aerobic part of biological filtration which processes ammonia to nitrite and nitrite to nitrate followed by an anaerobic part which processes nitrate into soluble nitrogen which bubbles off to the atmosphere. Therefore it requires a suitable amount of excellent quality filter media to be able to provide the environment for both aerobic AND anaerobic bacteria - that is what Biohome filter media does perfectly but even with such good media there are limitations and we recommend the following amounts for different stocking scenarios: (1 US Gallon = 3.8 litres) (1kg = 2.2 lbs) Average community tropical aquarium = 1kg per 100 litres Average coldwater aquarium = 1kg - 1.5kg per 100 litres Predator aquarium = 1.5kg - 2kg per 100 litres Large cichlid aquarium = 1.5kg - 2kg per 100 litres Malawi / Tanganyikan aquarium = 1.5kg - 2kg per 100 litres Marine aquarium = 1.5kg - 2kg per 100 litres Average mixed fish pond = 1kg per 200 litres Average koi pond = 1kg per 150 litres You may be disagreeing with the above figures but remember that they are for a FULL CYCLE not half a job - achieving 0 ammonia and 0 nitrite is quite easy since aerobic bacteria grows freely on any surface but the anaerobic bacteria responsible for COMPLETING the cycle needs more a specialized habitat. Remember to use a water conditioner which does not bind / detoxify ammonia, nitrite or nitrate as that type of conditioner will severely limit bacteria numbers by starving the bacteria of 'food'. Size a filter properly, set it up sensibly and you will have perfect water - it's that simple....and your filter won't be the dreaded 'Nitrate factory'.....you'll spend less money on treatments too......basically the filter is the foundation of a successful aquarium. This series of videos is all about trying to squeeze more efficiency out of internal and external aquarium filters which generally have a limited filtering capacity We all are on a long path of learning......... RECOMMENDED PRODUCTS ON AMAZON: goo.gl/jMaBWy INSTAGRAM: instagram.com/pondguru_outdoors/
Hi, just want to give an update on pimped PF3 the same way as in this video. It doesn’t work and I’ll explain why. Motor is on the top and when you fill the filter body with all the stuff it doesn’t manage to pull the water from the bottom but from the sides where filter housing is connected - all the water from the tank is going in the filter this way, shorter way and essentially bypassing all the good media we stuffed in. Water flows in from the sides and flowing over top of the biomedia and sponges. Small volume of water goes all the way from the bottom but that is maybe 5-10%. Not a good design to be heavily stuffed with media, housing connection is not tight.
(my other channel) Thanks for the feedback. The connection between the filter and pump head on the one I had for the video was very tight so on that one I can't see how the water could get in anywhere except through the bottom of the filter. If you have a pipette / syringe and some food coloring (dye) you could test where the water was being drawn in if you inject the dye around the filter in the tank when it is running but that would only work if the filter was in a long tank. If the tank was too small / short then the water current would break up the dye and water it down making it more difficult to see where the water was being drawn in. Other than that running the filter for a few weeks will show where the muck collects and therefore where the water is being pulled into the filter. I'm assuming that you're seeing no muck building up on the foams?
@@ThousandYardStare hi, thanks for the response. I had some fungus on my driftwood and this is how I tested, it is very slimy and easily carried by the current in the aquarium so I took the forceps and moved the fluff to the bottom and it doesn’t get sucked in through the grill at all, but when I move it just near the sides it gets sucked in immediately at the connection point. There is a bit of muck at the bottom sponge after one week so there must be some flow but not nearly enough, and in the small section I kept those biorings so water was essentially flowing from the sides across them and not through the sponges and other media. I ordered CF3 I think it can draw water in only from the bottom and it fits much more biomedia, also not so strong flow. I wasn’t aware of CF3 this was a quick purchase. I’ll keep PF3 as a spare ☝️
Yes. I can confirm this. After replicating the video above I always found plant matter stuck to the sides where the filter housing is connected. So I changed it again. Now I use the plastic foam holder inside the filter. I set it up it so the first side where the water flows in first meets coarse then fine foam second side is a small bag with ceramic media and the top casing below the pump stayed the same with activated carbon foam. The filted is in the same position and height as before but with this new setup I can definitely see the difference in the flow and bubbles. I hope now the pump is not struggling to suck the water in from the bottom.
That’s how I modified the sponges in the oase internal filter. I cut the blue coarse sponge in half vertically and installed a white fine pad the other half and small biological media in the top box before the pump. The water comes from back through the blue sponge and comes out the front through the fine pad and goes up to biological media.
@@yowandbm As far as fish numbers are concerned there is no correct answer and even a 'normally stocked tank' is difficult to quantify. For a high stock this filter will probably be OK for up to 60 litre and for a lightly stocked tank it will probably be OK for up to 100 litres but every tank is different.
Hi Richard. Quick question if you have a minute. I use ladies tights for my chemical stage of filtration, ie purigen ect, in all my tanks. The same with bio gravel for the smaller ones. Would you say this was a good idea or does it effect the efficency of the filter. Love what you do mate. Learnt so much over the years 👍🐠.
Yes no problem and while they're nowhere near as porous or suited to bacterial colonization compared to the Biohome it's still great compared to cheap ceramic rings and plastic media. If you have it you may as well use it and see how it goes.
@@quietspacearts (my other channel). I'm intending to get back into making videos soon but the last 5-6 months have been quite difficult since we're having an extension built and clearing up after the builders / electricians / plumbers as well as looking after the garden has eaten into available time. As it's coming to an end now that will free up time for making some videos. My main computer died after a forced Microsoft update so I lost loads of video footage and that was quite demoralizing - luckily it was only my computer Bill Gates managed to kill and not me, lol He'll be trying to kill me later this year when the covaids nonsense comes back but since I know the depopulation game I'll be around for many years making videos and not a victim of 'died suddenly' due to participating in the worldwide intelligence test (medical experiment). I have lots of videos to shoot and hopefully more time in the near future to edit and upload them.
I have the cpf2 corner power filter and its frying me😅 because it uses fine as the first medium and clogs really easy and has two grids. Can you help me please
Had one for a few months, quiet and powerful but I wish someone would invent a suction cup that works.....they look ok but after a few weeks they gave up the ghost.
@@AndrewSparkfish For sure - it would add more to the initial cost but considering that internal filters will be expected to last a decade or more it's a good investment.
what's the surface area of the new foam in the vertical flow system now, versus the surface area of the interpet horizontal flow direction? may increase maintenance period if area smaller ,,,,
The initial contact area is roughly the same but the coarse pad and carbon pad in the standard set up are exceptionally coarse so the majority of muck will surely hit the fine pad in the standard set up. Alter the foams in the cartridge or presented set up to suit the conditions of your tank - you're not stuck to using the standard foams.
(my other channel) The flow can be slowed right down and directed up, down, left or right so there should never be too much flow for a betta, especially when the tank is suitably planted for it.
hello, i build a soutamerika predator tank with oskars, cichlas, stingrays and channas, oh and one black arowana. the tank have 1400 liters. it be cycle by 2x fluval fx6. i would stock up with a third filter, should i buy the eheim 1200xl or the aquael ultramaxx 2000, the price of the eheim is almost higher than two of the aquael :) what think you i should pick ? greats @Pondguru
For a tank of that size (especially with predators) you need a sump to get plenty of filtration - however, if you're going for a third filter then the Eheim clasic 15000XL will hold between 11kg and 15kg of media depending on what type of media you go for - that would be mu choice a a third filter.
What is the volume and stock? - ring me any time on 07772848730 (I'm assuming you are in UK?) as I miss most of the comments on videos older than a day or so old (UA-cam stops sending me all the comments as notifications)
@@pondguru Good Morning, yes uk Midlands I’m watching the fish not the news it’s depressing 😫 Currently 4 ft rena around 359 litres with a aqua one 1250 and a Rena xp3 I have around 50 mbuna . My concern is flow rate mostly as the tank will not turn over as much on the new 600 litres tank . Flow rate is not great from the 2 I have. Thank you
(my other channel) Without knowing the specifics of how you've got the filter set up I can't answer that but the intake for air (on the outlet) needs to be above the water level. You may need to fit a piece of air line to the venturi head?
As for as I remember it doesn't have a hook to enable it to hang inside the tank. If the suckers aren't sticking give the glass a really good clean so it can get a proper seal - sounds like maybe there's some algae there is it won't stick as they are decent suckers.
Im about to but a new pond filter for my 3.5 k litre formal pond . Until i decide on a new model , im going to run a Pondxpert box filter , any tips on how best to set up the 4 compartments ? The bio balls 🙄 are in there but no sponges . There is a uvc .
In a standard pond filter one of the best media types to use is E40 Alfagrog (in mesh bags for easy removal) as it works well in muck so I'd say go with that after the foams. Not sure how much will fit in as I'm not familiar with that specific filter but it's really cheap considering how good it is.
I don't sell carbon pads but I have the foams on the FilterPro website - the only problem there is that they are 11" x 17" so you end up with loads spare for such a small filter and it works out expensive to upgrade such a small filter. If you search a site like 'Finest Filters' you will see packs of much smaller foams and that may work out more economical (and they will have carbon pads) since they sell generic foams cut to size for dozens of different filters.
Thanks for your feedback , i still may buy the foams from you , as il have plenty of spare left for future foam replacement . Ive looked on Finestfilters but they look to small . Once i recieve my pf2 filter i can decide then who to buy the foams from . Cheers mate
Thanks mate , ive bought this Pf2 for a secondary filter , as i am having problems with murky green water due to having the light on for my plants . So any advice / feedback would be fantastic . I have cold water aquarium & at the moment have no fish . But since buying some plants & having the light on for 10 - 12 hours its affecting my once clear water to algae & green coloured water . So i was adviced to buy the pf2 for a second filter my tank is 64 L
@@garthstone1314 It is unusual for a light to cause green water - it could be worth changing the light if the tank isn't in direct sunlight since the artificial light should not be causing green water. Although you can easily solve the green water with an in-line UV it would probably be cheaper just to change the bulb(s).
Interpet PF filter range: geni.us/EK5Kod
At the time of making this video the filter was on offer at £21.95 with free delivery - that is a great deal and even if you don't need a new filter this will make a great back-up for your existing system.
Filter Kits, Foams, Biohome, Biogravel etc: www.filterpro.co.uk
(FilterPro site has links to Biohome suppliers in other countries)
Eheim Mech: geni.us/lXrB7 (useful for under trays in filters which work bottom to top)
Eheim Substrat Pro: geni.us/98euQaB (decent alternative to Biogravel).
This is a well made filter which has a decent amount of space inside and even if you choose not to upgrade the filter it is great value.
*Avoid using water conditioners which claim to bind / remove / detoxify ammonia, nitrite and nitrate as it will have a pronounced starving effect on the bacteria. When bacteria is starved the population will be low as it grows in line with the available 'food'.
A normal conditioner will allow the bacteria to fully populate the whole system and take away the 'need' to add more bacteria after maintenance / water change.
Most people get conned into regularly using bacteria additives and that is simply to mask the side effects from a damaging conditioner and a failing filter.
A normal conditioner like Tapsafe, Aquasafe, API Stress Coat etc. is all you need when a tank is properly set up, a filter is suitably sized (and properly set up) and Nature is allowed to so what Nature does.*
See below for notes on how much media is recommended for different stocking scenarios. The Q&A page of the FilterPro site has extensive notes on recommended treatments and how filtration works.
Follow me on Odysee: odysee.com/$/invite/@PondGuru:0
Contact me on 07772848730 / sales@filterpro.co.uk
*******(I don't do texts)*******
Don't "eat ze bugs" - grow your own food and create a new system ....... you can check out my efforts to create a new system to navigate Agenda 2030 on my Thousand Yard Stare channel: ua-cam.com/channels/1pgJBGQrUfCUAhk63U5u5A.html
The following videos will be useful for learning more about filtration and filter media:
Sizing a canister properly and filter set up: goo.gl/om19un
Looking INSIDE different filter media: goo.gl/hZWS6c
Bacteria and filter media: goo.gl/123gAF
How to clean an aquarium: goo.gl/bPMhvh
Aquarium tips / filtration playlist: goo.gl/pXgqVj
A full cycle is completed by bacteria - the aerobic part of biological filtration which processes ammonia to nitrite and nitrite to nitrate followed by an anaerobic part which processes nitrate into soluble nitrogen which bubbles off to the atmosphere.
Therefore it requires a suitable amount of excellent quality filter media to be able to provide the environment for both aerobic AND anaerobic bacteria - that is what Biohome filter media does perfectly but even with such good media there are limitations and we recommend the following amounts for different stocking scenarios:
(1 US Gallon = 3.8 litres)
(1kg = 2.2 lbs)
Average community tropical aquarium = 1kg per 100 litres
Average coldwater aquarium = 1kg - 1.5kg per 100 litres
Predator aquarium = 1.5kg - 2kg per 100 litres
Large cichlid aquarium = 1.5kg - 2kg per 100 litres
Malawi / Tanganyikan aquarium = 1.5kg - 2kg per 100 litres
Marine aquarium = 1.5kg - 2kg per 100 litres
Average mixed fish pond = 1kg per 200 litres
Average koi pond = 1kg per 150 litres
You may be disagreeing with the above figures but remember that they are for a FULL CYCLE not half a job - achieving 0 ammonia and 0 nitrite is quite easy since aerobic bacteria grows freely on any surface but the anaerobic bacteria responsible for COMPLETING the cycle needs more a specialized habitat.
Remember to use a water conditioner which does not bind / detoxify ammonia, nitrite or nitrate as that type of conditioner will severely limit bacteria numbers by starving the bacteria of 'food'.
Size a filter properly, set it up sensibly and you will have perfect water - it's that simple....and your filter won't be the dreaded 'Nitrate factory'.....you'll spend less money on treatments too......basically the filter is the foundation of a successful aquarium.
This series of videos is all about trying to squeeze more efficiency out of internal and external aquarium filters which generally have a limited filtering capacity
We all are on a long path of learning.........
RECOMMENDED PRODUCTS ON AMAZON: goo.gl/jMaBWy
INSTAGRAM: instagram.com/pondguru_outdoors/
I’d put course into the grate bit..save room in the main section for more biohome
About to hit -22 F with the windchill here in Massachusetts USA. Can’t wait. Lol. 🥶 but should put some inches in the ponds for ice fishing
(my other channel) Best of luck if you get out ice fishing - it's something I've never done but would love to give it a go one day.
Hi, just want to give an update on pimped PF3 the same way as in this video.
It doesn’t work and I’ll explain why. Motor is on the top and when you fill the filter body with all the stuff it doesn’t manage to pull the water from the bottom but from the sides where filter housing is connected - all the water from the tank is going in the filter this way, shorter way and essentially bypassing all the good media we stuffed in. Water flows in from the sides and flowing over top of the biomedia and sponges.
Small volume of water goes all the way from the bottom but that is maybe 5-10%.
Not a good design to be heavily stuffed with media, housing connection is not tight.
(my other channel) Thanks for the feedback. The connection between the filter and pump head on the one I had for the video was very tight so on that one I can't see how the water could get in anywhere except through the bottom of the filter.
If you have a pipette / syringe and some food coloring (dye) you could test where the water was being drawn in if you inject the dye around the filter in the tank when it is running but that would only work if the filter was in a long tank. If the tank was too small / short then the water current would break up the dye and water it down making it more difficult to see where the water was being drawn in.
Other than that running the filter for a few weeks will show where the muck collects and therefore where the water is being pulled into the filter.
I'm assuming that you're seeing no muck building up on the foams?
@@ThousandYardStare hi, thanks for the response.
I had some fungus on my driftwood and this is how I tested, it is very slimy and easily carried by the current in the aquarium so I took the forceps and moved the fluff to the bottom and it doesn’t get sucked in through the grill at all, but when I move it just near the sides it gets sucked in immediately at the connection point.
There is a bit of muck at the bottom sponge after one week so there must be some flow but not nearly enough, and in the small section I kept those biorings so water was essentially flowing from the sides across them and not through the sponges and other media.
I ordered CF3 I think it can draw water in only from the bottom and it fits much more biomedia, also not so strong flow. I wasn’t aware of CF3 this was a quick purchase. I’ll keep PF3 as a spare ☝️
@@yowandbm Thanks for the clarification and it's always good to keep a filter as a spare.
Yes. I can confirm this. After replicating the video above I always found plant matter stuck to the sides where the filter housing is connected. So I changed it again. Now I use the plastic foam holder inside the filter. I set it up it so the first side where the water flows in first meets coarse then fine foam second side is a small bag with ceramic media and the top casing below the pump stayed the same with activated carbon foam. The filted is in the same position and height as before but with this new setup I can definitely see the difference in the flow and bubbles. I hope now the pump is not struggling to suck the water in from the bottom.
@@gcsabanagy do a video on it so I can what you did
i done exactly what u have and works great on my 75 litre
Groovy - best of luck with the tank.
@@pondguru i just followed the order you set filters and used that formula, im so happy i found your channels
Alan Shearer vibes 😅👍 Another great video!
Well we're both bald Geordies but he is considerably better at football than me, lol
@@pondguru 😂 Love it! You look and sound like him. Well you're great at what you do mate. Thanks for the reply, Legend 😉🙌
I put mine in a container before removing. That way the muck doesn't fall back into tank. I do my sponge filters the same way..
That sounds like a good plan.
That’s how I modified the sponges in the oase internal filter. I cut the blue coarse sponge in half vertically and installed a white fine pad the other half and small biological media in the top box before the pump. The water comes from back through the blue sponge and comes out the front through the fine pad and goes up to biological media.
Nice one and best of luck with the tank.
@@pondguru @Pondguru, a lovely video, after watching I bought a PF3 for my 109l tank which when set up turned out to receive
@@yowandbm As far as fish numbers are concerned there is no correct answer and even a 'normally stocked tank' is difficult to quantify.
For a high stock this filter will probably be OK for up to 60 litre and for a lightly stocked tank it will probably be OK for up to 100 litres but every tank is different.
Very nice.
Hi Richard. Quick question if you have a minute. I use ladies tights for my chemical stage of filtration, ie purigen ect, in all my tanks. The same with bio gravel for the smaller ones. Would you say this was a good idea or does it effect the efficency of the filter. Love what you do mate. Learnt so much over the years 👍🐠.
can i use hydroton balls in my interpet pf2 as already have some unused as i do hydroponics too?
Yes no problem and while they're nowhere near as porous or suited to bacterial colonization compared to the Biohome it's still great compared to cheap ceramic rings and plastic media. If you have it you may as well use it and see how it goes.
any more videos from you soon Richard
@@pondguru
@@quietspacearts (my other channel). I'm intending to get back into making videos soon but the last 5-6 months have been quite difficult since we're having an extension built and clearing up after the builders / electricians / plumbers as well as looking after the garden has eaten into available time. As it's coming to an end now that will free up time for making some videos.
My main computer died after a forced Microsoft update so I lost loads of video footage and that was quite demoralizing - luckily it was only my computer Bill Gates managed to kill and not me, lol
He'll be trying to kill me later this year when the covaids nonsense comes back but since I know the depopulation game I'll be around for many years making videos and not a victim of 'died suddenly' due to participating in the worldwide intelligence test (medical experiment).
I have lots of videos to shoot and hopefully more time in the near future to edit and upload them.
Need a filter for a Aquael Hexa Set 60 Aquarium
I have the cpf2 corner power filter and its frying me😅 because it uses fine as the first medium and clogs really easy and has two grids. Can you help me please
I'm not familiar with that one and most internal filters aren't designed to be altered - just experiment and see what works best for you.
Had one for a few months, quiet and powerful but I wish someone would invent a suction cup that works.....they look ok but after a few weeks they gave up the ghost.
Just like every suction pad ever designed for fish tank pumps or whatever. If only all manufacturers used magnetic mounts.
@@AndrewSparkfish yup true.
@@AndrewSparkfish For sure - it would add more to the initial cost but considering that internal filters will be expected to last a decade or more it's a good investment.
what's the surface area of the new foam in the vertical flow system now, versus the surface area of the interpet horizontal flow direction? may increase maintenance period if area smaller ,,,,
The initial contact area is roughly the same but the coarse pad and carbon pad in the standard set up are exceptionally coarse so the majority of muck will surely hit the fine pad in the standard set up. Alter the foams in the cartridge or presented set up to suit the conditions of your tank - you're not stuck to using the standard foams.
Hi, will this adjust to a low enough flow for a Betta Fish? Thanks.
(my other channel) The flow can be slowed right down and directed up, down, left or right so there should never be too much flow for a betta, especially when the tank is suitably planted for it.
hello, i build a soutamerika predator tank with oskars, cichlas, stingrays and channas, oh and one black arowana. the tank have 1400 liters. it be cycle by 2x fluval fx6. i would stock up with a third filter, should i buy the eheim 1200xl or the aquael ultramaxx 2000, the price of the eheim is almost higher than two of the aquael :) what think you i should pick ? greats @Pondguru
For a tank of that size (especially with predators) you need a sump to get plenty of filtration - however, if you're going for a third filter then the Eheim clasic 15000XL will hold between 11kg and 15kg of media depending on what type of media you go for - that would be mu choice a a third filter.
Off subject .
6 foot aquarium canister filter recommendations please?
I don’t want a fx6 though they are way too noisy
What is the volume and stock? - ring me any time on 07772848730 (I'm assuming you are in UK?) as I miss most of the comments on videos older than a day or so old (UA-cam stops sending me all the comments as notifications)
@@pondguru Good Morning, yes uk Midlands I’m watching the fish not the news it’s depressing 😫
Currently 4 ft rena around 359 litres with a aqua one 1250 and a Rena xp3
I have around 50 mbuna .
My concern is flow rate mostly as the tank will not turn over as much on the new 600 litres tank .
Flow rate is not great from the 2 I have.
Thank you
Why can’t I get air to pump out either
(my other channel) Without knowing the specifics of how you've got the filter set up I can't answer that but the intake for air (on the outlet) needs to be above the water level. You may need to fit a piece of air line to the venturi head?
Is there any way to pimp out the ehiem pick up filters? Cheers
Unfortunately since they rely on foams which have a hollow center you'r stuck with using those type of foams.
Does anyone sell the suction cup clip
Whoever sells the filters should be able to get all the spares.
can you just hang it in the tank as my suction caps refuse to stick ha brand new lmao.
As for as I remember it doesn't have a hook to enable it to hang inside the tank. If the suckers aren't sticking give the glass a really good clean so it can get a proper seal - sounds like maybe there's some algae there is it won't stick as they are decent suckers.
Im about to but a new pond filter for my 3.5 k litre formal pond . Until i decide on a new model , im going to run a Pondxpert box filter , any tips on how best to set up the 4 compartments ? The bio balls 🙄 are in there but no sponges . There is a uvc .
In a standard pond filter one of the best media types to use is E40 Alfagrog (in mesh bags for easy removal) as it works well in muck so I'd say go with that after the foams. Not sure how much will fit in as I'm not familiar with that specific filter but it's really cheap considering how good it is.
gg
Hi i want to fo this interpet PF2 filter like you have done . Where can i buy the Carbon pads & main body course & fine pads from . Cheers pal Garthy
I don't sell carbon pads but I have the foams on the FilterPro website - the only problem there is that they are 11" x 17" so you end up with loads spare for such a small filter and it works out expensive to upgrade such a small filter.
If you search a site like 'Finest Filters' you will see packs of much smaller foams and that may work out more economical (and they will have carbon pads) since they sell generic foams cut to size for dozens of different filters.
Thanks for your feedback , i still may buy the foams from you , as il have plenty of spare left for future foam replacement . Ive looked on Finestfilters but they look to small . Once i recieve my pf2 filter i can decide then who to buy the foams from . Cheers mate
@@garthstone1314 No worries, any time and best of luck with the tank.
Thanks mate , ive bought this Pf2 for a secondary filter , as i am having problems with murky green water due to having the light on for my plants . So any advice / feedback would be fantastic . I have cold water aquarium & at the moment have no fish . But since buying some plants & having the light on for 10 - 12 hours its affecting my once clear water to algae & green coloured water . So i was adviced to buy the pf2 for a second filter my tank is 64 L
@@garthstone1314 It is unusual for a light to cause green water - it could be worth changing the light if the tank isn't in direct sunlight since the artificial light should not be causing green water. Although you can easily solve the green water with an in-line UV it would probably be cheaper just to change the bulb(s).