with that pic chain dont forget that low pro in front of the 3/8. or lp 3/8. its not the same size as a regular 3/8 chain. i dont know why the called it that. legend has it that the 8 and 9 tooth sprockets are originally made for semi and full skip chains. so you can keep you cutter speed up. and the semi and full skip chains were originally made for the big wood so there is room for the wood chips and the cutters dont keep cutting the chips over and over making dust. so there you have it the history of chain and the sprocket
Hi John!!😀😀 One other thing to know is if the sprocket comes with holes in one side of it. Make sure that the holes are on the outside of the drum when you install it. Because if you put the holes to the inside it will carry the sawdust down the tract and plug your oiler hole and slot. Then your saw will stop oiling properly. The holes are in it to allow the chips to exist the sprocket and they must be allowed to exit to the outside. Take care my friend!!😀😀👍👍 Logger Al
Nice. That is definitely the best way I have ever seen it explained. Thanks! Keep the videos going I don't care how geeky you think they are. They are really informative you justify everything you do and the why is so important.
This is a chain for homeowner saws, and as a homeowner in the Southeast who doesn't really count wood by the cord ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxbs4FIpzuLyOJe2SesfbtvXi1CTnUXroD I have this (or 20BPX) on several saws at different levels of smallness. I've never felt that the safety chain is holding me back. I buy multiple chains, and when the installed one doesn't feel grabby enough, I file it, then throw it in a cup of gasoline while I rotate to the next one. I have yet to file one down to the wear lines, so I feel like I'm getting my money's worth, and I'm happy about this new 3-pack - although, at this rate, it's going to be awhile before I buy another. I don't know why I would try anything else.
I keep running into that. Especially at pawn shops when out looking for something I can’t live without 😉. I will pull the chain and move it around the bar and there is that clunking. I make it work in my favor because I bring the pawn shop worker over and let him hear the noise and give him a concerned look, ‘I don’t know about it. That doesn’t sound good. Price tag says $200? I MIGHT give you $50 just to help you out because I can use it for parts.’ Got a Zenoah GZ4500 pretty much brand new for $20 that way. Took it home and put a .325 bar on it and it runs like a champ. Probably the best $20 I’ve ever spent besides that time I went to Krystal with a crumpled $20 in my pocket after a night out drinking
Another thing people always mess up on is the gauge of the bar 50, 58, 63 they make all the different gauges for all the different chains Pico 325 3/8 on 404 I always have the customer look on their bar and it would tell you what type of chain you need and what pitch and drivers It can get crazy real quick when you start mixing and matching not a bad video on the Spurs and sprockets but they're still quite a bit more to it but great intro !! Thanks for trying to explain some of that hope it helps out some people
for sure... there is a lot to it... i forgot about 404 and different chain gauge... it could be a 2 hour video and i was already ready to shoot myself... i hate the technical talk... i feel like an idiot especially since i do not consider myself even close to an expert on this stuff... but its cray how many guys have just ran 3/8 and have no idea the different setups out there
@@johnscustomsaws I run 325 63g on my 025 did a few tricks@ mods it rips!! If people have to ask about rims@ Spurs they have no business running ported saws they're going to get themselves hurt!!
I’ve ran a saw for years but don’t know much about the ins and outs which is why I’m here. Who do you want to learn about a saw from- some weekend warrior or somebody who lives and breathes it? We’re all here for Quality, some of us are just a bit further behind in our knowledge base and Johns fixin that. Couldn’t agree with you more.
I have a 250 that won't die. I was recently told Stihl discontinued the ms250. I called around and found a new one and bought it so I'll never be without one!
It surprised me how often I come across people who have run saws for years and still get confused on chain pitch and thickness. It's all on the bar. Also owning different size saws helps too.
very good video john my ms660 came stock 3/8" 8 Tooth sprocket (fuck pin) and my ms461 3/8" 7 tooth. retired logger like bigger saws i used to run 404 chain many years ago on my 6 cube saws
lol i am with you man fuck that "PIN' nonsense... but someone will always be that guy that wants to correct me... and honestly im not sure if the whole "pin" terminology pertains to the OEM rim sprockets or not... i know the race sprockets have actual pins in them
👍.. if you have any pointers on building a redmax bcz260 trimmer. Fully ported not hog out or anything but transfers intake widening exhaust port sides wide roof just hair carburetor has been bored intake bored gasket delete base, hoping to run strong..Great content
Great video!! I've gotta say I look at something like a 660, especially if ported, and think that 7T is just too-little, like a guy with big legs riding a bike in 1st-gear, just doesn't make-use of the power -- cannot see why that doesn't analogize directly to powersaw gearing (IE why Stihl oem-spec for 660 is a 7pin) 1 thing I was hoping to hear-- what of running 43 gauge chains in 50 gauge bars? I've heard it's OK, that the extra room isn't a problem, have never tried it... When I look at the advantage Stihl climbing B&C setups have over Oregon, I can't help speculating that a large portion is the
Ive bought alot of different rim sprocket for alot of my saws and ive found sometimes the cheaper ones are not punched out on center. Some run smoothly some have tight then loose places as the chain goes around. Its like yhe center isnt on center
I have a ms290 and they say you can run up to a 20" bar. I at times will want to go up to a 24" bar. I see amazon offers spur sprockets in 6t, 7t, and 8t. Should I stick to the 7t sprocket with the longer bar or will dropping to the 6t give more torque for pulling more chain on the longer bar? I want more power for the longer bar.
Isn’t that last thing, about the bar all the way back, what if you don’t? Put the bar all the way back? Huh? Did my eyes lie to me? Wouldn’t it work if the bar was just forward a bit? I’m just wondering, not about to run a race sprocket. What about (other subject) running an MS 362 with 24” bar? 8 or 7 pin? Rim? Or drum? Serious question as I am new and been given a saw I am refurbishing . Thanks for any reply from anyone with knowledge.
The chain speed calculations are simple... Multiply the pitch by the number of pins on the drive sprocket. That answer is how far the chain moves in one rotation of the engine. 0.325" pitch X 7 pins = 2.275" per revolution. 0.325" pitch x 8 pins = 2.6" per revolution. 3/8" pitch x 7 pins =2.625" per revolution. 3/8" pitch X 8 pins = 3" per revolution.
I need a new bar. The sprocket is .325 I just use one saw for falling, clearing brush, limbing, and cutting up into firewood. Which bar and chain would I want? Brand and size. I have had shorter but I really like 20 inch. The motor is a 62 with good power for that size.
The speed difference will come from sprocket size which is being referenced by the pin count here. 7 pin, 8 pin, 9 pin etc. A larger diameter sprocket which creates more chain speed will have more pins. The 3/8 or .325 you mention is referring to chain pitch. The higher the number the longer a link is.
Sand Sox I think, and heavy on think, the 3/8 will cut a hair faster just because the sprocket of the 3/8 7 pin is a lil bigger than the 325 7 pin. I may have gotten a lil hasty in my earlier reply and over complicated this situation. Sooo, to your original question I say 3/8.
@@cowcatcher9186 i havent used a .325 in about 15 years, since then my sharpening is alot better. i use the 33RS primarily, but you could get that in a.325 make up also. i think you would have a little narrower bar and kerf. drop that on a normal 60cc. maybe you could beat a guy in a stock saw. or maybe there is a hidden advantage for a brush crew . there has to be something i am not seeing. . why not just run3/8 on everything mid 50s and up
hello friend, sorry for the question, but what improves the performance of the chainsaw comocar this 9t pinion, more rotation, more force, what improves?
Do they make 1/4 inch pitch sprockets for the cheaper saws, like the Poulan WildThing? I bought a carving quarter tip bar and chain for it with 3/8 pitch, but I think it would run smoother with a 1/4 inch pitch sprocket and chain.
I’ve never even played with a 10 pin. I think it’s time I try one out on my 372 With a 20” and start playing with some racing chains. I’m way behind on the chain and sprocket experiments
I purchased a 25" chain and bar for my Craftsman [Husqvarna] chainsaw, and the pins in the drive sprocket don't match. How can I go about finding the correct sprocket?
I wanna know how to run a 9-10pin sprocket on my 592xp saw in 3/8s Are there special bars that are fatter? because the sprocket being bigger than the tail of the bar makes the chain derail and not oil right..
i have a ms271 farm boss 22in and i bought a new 25 inch bar and chain but the guide teeth pitch is bigger could i switch the sprocket out from a 311 or something that size from my research it looks to be the same but im not positive
I been having a problem with my Husqvarna 345 I’ve ordered a sprocket and the needle bearing seems to have more gap so the sprocket is wobbly and every time I order a needle bearing I get the same fit
probably a silly question but as long as you have the right pitch sprocket, does it matter about the gauge of the chain you are running as long as the bar is the right gauge?
I would like to use the 8 tooth sprocket, but at high elevation the power head struggles. I would have to use a much larger power head. That equates to wearing yourself out. So, Colorado guys need to stay within your handleability. Not saying it won't work, but experiment first.
Can you do a video on the ms250 and maybe do some mods to one I have a ms250 it's a great saw I would like to do a few things to it . There's not a lot of videos on them thanks
@johnscustomsaws Bro, can I pick your brain for a sec? I am new to chainsaws and have the milwaukee 16" chainsaw (2727-20). In a video someone was talking about a .325 on a 8 pin rim sprocket would be the sweet spot for this saw. I really want to upgrade my saw to those specs, but the milwaukee comes with a 6pin spur sprocket drum. The Oregon website only recommends low profile chains for this saw. In the video the guy mods his sprocket drum by welding a rim sprocket gear onto the drum. Do you know if these saws would take a rim sprocket drum from another manufacturer so I could just buy one? Or are there bars with .325 chain combinations that would fit the milwaukee 6 pin spur sprocket? I would really appreciate your insights into this matter.
I found out that a different sprocket drum would need to match these dimensions, do these even exist? Overall Height 1" Outside Diameter 2.20" Inside Diameter 2.005" Teeth/pins 8 Shaft 0.393" Diameter 0.320" Across Flats
@johnscustomsaws If there is no replacement sprocket drum for the The milwaukee 16" chainsaw (2727-20), what specifications would I need to look for in a .325 pitch chain/bar combo for it to fit on the original 6pin/tooth sprocket of the milwaukee?
Official stihl site info that "justifies" the 25x series for me: MS251 10.8 lbs power head, 3.0bhp MS181 10.1 lbs power head, 2.0bhp So 50% more power for less than 10% more weight. Make sense to me - local to me prices the 251 is less than 50% more expensive than the 181, so more bhp/dollar
Changing from a 7 tooth for an 8 tooth on a Stihl 460. Am I going to have to modify the bar or add links to the chain??? Really wanna speed it up but not sure if this is wise....
Well the sprocket is cheap typically less than $10 some saws there isn't enough extra chain play for the bigger sprocket some there is.. if you're only running 20-24" bar on that saw the 8 pin is probably a good idea
good day sir...i m from the philippines, i just wanted ask you, about 404 sprocket that will fit to a ms 382 drum... most of the chain available in our area were 404s.. is it possible....it doesnt if its 7 or 8 tooth.... thanks by the way, for your ideas about sprocket fittings....
Używam w ms 361 łańcucha 3/8lp na prowadnicy 30" i 36" na zębatce 3/8 wymiennie z dużym łańcuchem. Masz duży spline, mały spline i mini spline. 404; 0,375, 0,325, 0,250 → 0.404; 3/8; 0,325; 1/4 w tym 3,8 duży, 3/8 niski profil, 3/8 carving 1,1 szerokość ogniwa prowadzącego. 1/4 1,3mm ogniwo prowadzące carving i 1/4 1,1.
okay well my question is how do I know what the inside diameter of the rim sprocket would be called. what to they label the sizes as. because I cannot find any information on sprocket size. I have a Husqvarna 545 mark 2 and I need to find a 7, 8, 9 or ten tooth sprocket with the smaller diameter to fit on my clutch drum and everyone I order is to big. nothing says anything about the diameter. I found a 28 inch Oregon bar that fits a small mount but I need a sprocket. probably blow my 545 up but I'm dumb so LETS GOOOO!!!! I want to do some chain saw milling and I from what I have gathered your better off having the bar sticking out of the log so it doesn't get so hot. And Oh yeah. LETS GO DETROIT LIONS Jared Goff for MVP. Lions verse dolphins is my dream super bowl match up right now. Huge fan of Dolphins head coach, Mike Daniels.I really do hope the Vikings find a Elite quarterback to utilize that star receiver lineup(because cousins is pretty...not elite) and get things running smooth. But either way GO LIONS!!!
Are there people that really think that 3/8 and 1/4 are the same? That would be like trying to use a 3/8 socket on a 1/4 bolt. Another way to look at 3/8 pitch is to see the fraction ‘3/8’ as a decimal, which is .375. Likewise you can view the decimal ‘.325’ as a fraction, which is ‘13/40’. You can’t use any other chain or bar other than one that has a matching pitch( and gauge which is the width of the groove along the bar where the chain rides). A .325 sprocket can’t run a 3/8(.375) chain simply because the spacing between the teeth is .325, so something that is spaced .375 would be too big. Just like a 3/8 pitch chain on a 1/4 sprocket wouldn’t work because 1/4”is 1/8” larger than 3/8”.
@@johnscustomsaws you have the HULK saw....tell me you are doing a VIKINGS saw. All purple and yellow. Leather wrap handle and and some way chainmail incorporated. Huge Vikings fan here. From Ontario, Canada near Toronto and have done the venture to the old and new stadium several times. THE PURPLE MAPLE EATER ??? And great info about the chain and sprocket
I never understood the chase for chain speed as it doesn't get the cut that much faster so why lose the torque? Had an old 1940 style saw that ran with tons of torque and no chain speed that would cut very fast as it had a good full chisel chain which is worth way way more than a fast chain speed. People underestimate a good chain with good torque. Speed will just get you more wear, thrown chains, damage when chains throw, heat on the bar and chain, & is just almost worthless. But, thanks to ignorance of society we have high speed, high kicking, fast running chainsaws so we can do more work on the saw than cutting. I need to figure this out and see if I can get a higher torque slower speed setup somehow without running out of tensioner. Sure, in a competition racing in a flat laying and perfectly supported log speed may matter but in use for what most need it sucks.
@@johnscustomsaws take for instance a drill press with different size pulleys used to adjust bit speed. The smaller the pulley you run the belt on,,the faster the bit turns. Smaller diameter =faster revolutions. I could be wrong but I don't think I am. If I am wrong please forgive me.
@@jameshelton2161 on dirt bikes we would change our front sprocket up a tooth and lose torque and gain speed... the race sprockets are larger so I assumed that they are increasing speed and related to the changing of the front sprocket on a dirt bike but now im not sure... I only question your statement because smaller sprockets are always on smaller CC saws and the bigger CC saws have larger sprockets... and I have personally ran an 8 pin (bigger) sprocket on a smaller saw and it robbed tons of power... so if you are correct a small sprocket increases torque AND speed... if thats the case why do they sell 14 pin huge sprockets for race saws it would slow them way down... im not trying to be a smartass either but if I am wrong I need to correct it.
@@kostasfrangos3354other way around. On a bike Big sprocket on front and small on the back is fast, small on the front and big on the rear is torque. On a saw the driven sprocket being bigger has a larger circumference so chain is pulled further per engine revolution ie bigger the driven sprocket the higher the chain speed if your saw has the torque/power to pull it
Informative but I'm still confused because you don't know how to talk with your definitions straight I don't know the definitions man but I'm watching this video to understand the definitions and use the correct terminology when I go you know to try to purchase this type of stuff and I'm morally I'm just confused now because you're saying err and I got it wrong and then the words are flashing across the bottom telling us that you're using the wrong terms I understand but I don't understand man do it again and get it right thank you
You manner of approaching content makes the issue more confusing. Sorry, but I call them the way I see them. Don't contradict yourself, and edit out your mistakes.
I got that saw, and yes there are conversion kits (aftermarket not Husqvarna) but you're probably going to be better off using the .325 because it's lighter and uses less power to cut
with that pic chain dont forget that low pro in front of the 3/8. or lp 3/8. its not the same size as a regular 3/8 chain. i dont know why the called it that.
legend has it that the 8 and 9 tooth sprockets are originally made for semi and full skip chains. so you can keep you cutter speed up. and the semi and full skip chains were originally made for the big wood so there is room for the wood chips and the cutters dont keep cutting the chips over and over making dust. so there you have it the history of chain and the sprocket
Definitely good to know... I haven't ran into that before but I wish I would have mentioned it... I will your commen tho... thanks my man
Hi John!!😀😀
One other thing to know is if the sprocket comes with holes in one side of it. Make sure that the holes are on the outside of the drum when you install it. Because if you put the holes to the inside it will carry the sawdust down the tract and plug your oiler hole and slot. Then your saw will stop oiling properly. The holes are in it to allow the chips to exist the sprocket and they must be allowed to exit to the outside.
Take care my friend!!😀😀👍👍
Logger Al
Nice. That is definitely the best way I have ever seen it explained. Thanks! Keep the videos going I don't care how geeky you think they are. They are really informative you justify everything you do and the why is so important.
This is a chain for homeowner saws, and as a homeowner in the Southeast who doesn't really count wood by the cord ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxbs4FIpzuLyOJe2SesfbtvXi1CTnUXroD I have this (or 20BPX) on several saws at different levels of smallness. I've never felt that the safety chain is holding me back. I buy multiple chains, and when the installed one doesn't feel grabby enough, I file it, then throw it in a cup of gasoline while I rotate to the next one. I have yet to file one down to the wear lines, so I feel like I'm getting my money's worth, and I'm happy about this new 3-pack - although, at this rate, it's going to be awhile before I buy another. I don't know why I would try anything else.
Great video. So many people mess this up. Just fixed that for a customer the other day. Chain kept jumping off bar. Had 3/8 chain on a .325.
I keep running into that. Especially at pawn shops when out looking for something I can’t live without 😉. I will pull the chain and move it around the bar and there is that clunking. I make it work in my favor because I bring the pawn shop worker over and let him hear the noise and give him a concerned look, ‘I don’t know about it. That doesn’t sound good. Price tag says $200? I MIGHT give you $50 just to help you out because I can use it for parts.’ Got a Zenoah GZ4500 pretty much brand new for $20 that way. Took it home and put a .325 bar on it and it runs like a champ. Probably the best $20 I’ve ever spent besides that time I went to Krystal with a crumpled $20 in my pocket after a night out drinking
Live in a Logging town in WA St, BUT The only saw shop in town closed up cuz of the "VID" So watching your vids are Very Informative. Thanks
It is crazy how many guys get it mixed up, I have helped a few friends out with this as well. Great video
Another thing people always mess up on is the gauge of the bar 50, 58, 63 they make all the different gauges for all the different chains Pico 325 3/8 on 404 I always have the customer look on their bar and it would tell you what type of chain you need and what pitch and drivers
It can get crazy real quick when you start mixing and matching not a bad video on the Spurs and sprockets but they're still quite a bit more to it but great intro !! Thanks for trying to explain some of that hope it helps out some people
for sure... there is a lot to it... i forgot about 404 and different chain gauge... it could be a 2 hour video and i was already ready to shoot myself... i hate the technical talk... i feel like an idiot especially since i do not consider myself even close to an expert on this stuff... but its cray how many guys have just ran 3/8 and have no idea the different setups out there
@@johnscustomsaws I run 325 63g on my 025 did a few tricks@ mods it rips!! If people have to ask about rims@ Spurs they have no business running ported saws they're going to get themselves hurt!!
Here people think only .325" in 1.5mm exists, But now Husqvarna has gone to 1.3. People are just dumb
Good vidya, man. I know it sucks going over basics, but lotsa people need this stuff. Nice mix it up.
I’ve ran a saw for years but don’t know much about the ins and outs which is why I’m here. Who do you want to learn about a saw from- some weekend warrior or somebody who lives and breathes it?
We’re all here for Quality, some of us are just a bit further behind in our knowledge base and Johns fixin that. Couldn’t agree with you more.
@@jimmybob6740 well said, buddy.
I have 2 250’s run .325 full house and they are light, cut fast and good all around saws
I have a 250 that won't die. I was recently told Stihl discontinued the ms250. I called around and found a new one and bought it so I'll never be without one!
Excellent discussion and explanation! 💪👍
Great info video man I have a 250 for fire wood runs great 7 years going
It surprised me how often I come across people who have run saws for years and still get confused on chain pitch and thickness. It's all on the bar. Also owning different size saws helps too.
yeah i totally forgot 404 and chain gauge... i agree its amazing some guys been logging for years and dont even know .325 ins "a thing" lol
very good video john my ms660 came stock 3/8" 8 Tooth sprocket (fuck pin) and my ms461 3/8" 7 tooth. retired logger like bigger saws i used to run 404 chain many years ago on my 6 cube saws
36" bar 660 32" 461
I like .404 actually
lol i am with you man fuck that "PIN' nonsense... but someone will always be that guy that wants to correct me... and honestly im not sure if the whole "pin" terminology pertains to the OEM rim sprockets or not... i know the race sprockets have actual pins in them
👍.. if you have any pointers on building a redmax bcz260 trimmer. Fully ported not hog out or anything but transfers intake widening exhaust port sides wide roof just hair carburetor has been bored intake bored gasket delete base, hoping to run strong..Great content
Thanks John. I learnt something today
Great video John
Great video!! I've gotta say I look at something like a 660, especially if ported, and think that 7T is just too-little, like a guy with big legs riding a bike in 1st-gear, just doesn't make-use of the power -- cannot see why that doesn't analogize directly to powersaw gearing (IE why Stihl oem-spec for 660 is a 7pin)
1 thing I was hoping to hear-- what of running 43 gauge chains in 50 gauge bars? I've heard it's OK, that the extra room isn't a problem, have never tried it... When I look at the advantage Stihl climbing B&C setups have over Oregon, I can't help speculating that a large portion is the
Ive bought alot of different rim sprocket for alot of my saws and ive found sometimes the cheaper ones are not punched out on center. Some run smoothly some have tight then loose places as the chain goes around. Its like yhe center isnt on center
I have a ms290 and they say you can run up to a 20" bar. I at times will want to go up to a 24" bar. I see amazon offers spur sprockets in 6t, 7t, and 8t. Should I stick to the 7t sprocket with the longer bar or will dropping to the 6t give more torque for pulling more chain on the longer bar?
I want more power for the longer bar.
Isn’t that last thing, about the bar all the way back, what if you don’t? Put the bar all the way back? Huh? Did my eyes lie to me? Wouldn’t it work if the bar was just forward a bit? I’m just wondering, not about to run a race sprocket. What about (other subject) running an MS 362 with 24” bar? 8 or 7 pin? Rim? Or drum? Serious question as I am new and been given a saw I am refurbishing . Thanks for any reply from anyone with knowledge.
The chain speed calculations are simple... Multiply the pitch by the number of pins on the drive sprocket. That answer is how far the chain moves in one rotation of the engine. 0.325" pitch X 7 pins = 2.275" per revolution.
0.325" pitch x 8 pins = 2.6" per revolution. 3/8" pitch x 7 pins =2.625" per revolution. 3/8" pitch X 8 pins = 3" per revolution.
I need a new bar. The sprocket is .325 I just use one saw for falling, clearing brush, limbing, and cutting up into firewood. Which bar and chain would I want? Brand and size. I have had shorter but I really like 20 inch. The motor is a 62 with good power for that size.
Great video. With everything being the same 7 pin, same saw. What is faster. 3\8 or.325
The speed difference will come from sprocket size which is being referenced by the pin count here. 7 pin, 8 pin, 9 pin etc. A larger diameter sprocket which creates more chain speed will have more pins. The 3/8 or .325 you mention is referring to chain pitch. The higher the number the longer a link is.
@@cowcatcher9186 i was thinking that their was maybe something advantage in chain width or the driver spacing. That let one edge out
Sand Sox I think, and heavy on think, the 3/8 will cut a hair faster just because the sprocket of the 3/8 7 pin is a lil bigger than the 325 7 pin. I may have gotten a lil hasty in my earlier reply and over complicated this situation. Sooo, to your original question I say 3/8.
@@cowcatcher9186 i havent used a .325 in about 15 years, since then my sharpening is alot better. i use the 33RS primarily, but you could get that in a.325 make up also. i think you would have a little narrower bar and kerf. drop that on a normal 60cc. maybe you could beat a guy in a stock saw.
or maybe there is a hidden advantage for a brush crew . there has to be something i am not seeing. . why not just run3/8 on everything mid 50s and up
hello friend, sorry for the question, but what improves the performance of the chainsaw comocar this 9t pinion, more rotation, more force, what improves?
I have a Husqvarna 440. I want to switch to a rim sprocket and 3/8 pitch. 050 62 tooth. I also need a new clutch. What do you recommend? Thank you
Do they make 1/4 inch pitch sprockets for the cheaper saws, like the Poulan WildThing? I bought a carving quarter tip bar and chain for it with 3/8 pitch, but I think it would run smoother with a 1/4 inch pitch sprocket and chain.
I’ve never even played with a 10 pin. I think it’s time I try one out on my 372 With a 20” and start playing with some racing chains. I’m way behind on the chain and sprocket experiments
Excellent explanation, Thanks man!
Good explanation. Thank u.
John, what chain/sprocket do you recommend for stock ms460? Felling/Bucking
Where I live 3/8 pico is called 3/8lp (low profile)
I purchased a 25" chain and bar for my Craftsman [Husqvarna] chainsaw, and the pins in the drive sprocket don't match. How can I go about finding the correct sprocket?
I wanna know how to run a 9-10pin sprocket on my 592xp saw in 3/8s Are there special bars that are fatter? because the sprocket being bigger than the tail of the bar makes the chain derail and not oil right..
Great video thank you for sharing!
i have a ms271 farm boss 22in and i bought a new 25 inch bar and chain but the guide teeth pitch is bigger could i switch the sprocket out from a 311 or something that size from my research it looks to be the same but im not positive
I bought an old Homelite 245 but, I am still good info
👍 thanks
I been having a problem with my Husqvarna 345 I’ve ordered a sprocket and the needle bearing seems to have more gap so the sprocket is wobbly and every time I order a needle bearing I get the same fit
That racing sprocket is HUUUGE! I'm assuming since the race sprocket has pins, it's rebuildable?
probably a silly question but as long as you have the right pitch sprocket, does it matter about the gauge of the chain you are running as long as the bar is the right gauge?
No it doesn't matter, all the sprockets work for all gauges you just need bar to be correct and you're good
I would like to use the 8 tooth sprocket, but at high elevation the power head struggles. I would have to use a much larger power head. That equates to wearing yourself out. So, Colorado guys need to stay within your handleability. Not saying it won't work, but experiment first.
Can you do a video on the ms250 and maybe do some mods to one I have a ms250 it's a great saw I would like to do a few things to it . There's not a lot of videos on them thanks
im actually going to buy one and send it to the moon... be a little ways down the road but i will get to it... be a fun video
@@johnscustomsaws Make sure there is plenty of "Before" action to compare to "After" action. Sounds like a really good video.
2 Oz perfect tried it today
Hi there., i have ms230 3/8p chain, i want to upgrade to 20 to 25inch bar, which bar and chain should i buy? Thanks
Hi and thanks for sharing, appreciated
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HI. My sprocket has 3/8-7-2 stamped on it what does the 2 stand for ???
Itbwas shown thaat a 325 sprocket doesn't fit a 3/8p chain., how about vice versa 3/8p sprocket with a 325 chain does it fit?
Is there a way to convert a ms 291 so it will take a ms 290 chain
@johnscustomsaws Bro, can I pick your brain for a sec? I am new to chainsaws and have the milwaukee 16" chainsaw (2727-20). In a video someone was talking about a .325 on a 8 pin rim sprocket would be the sweet spot for this saw. I really want to upgrade my saw to those specs, but the milwaukee comes with a 6pin spur sprocket drum. The Oregon website only recommends low profile chains for this saw. In the video the guy mods his sprocket drum by welding a rim sprocket gear onto the drum. Do you know if these saws would take a rim sprocket drum from another manufacturer so I could just buy one? Or are there bars with .325 chain combinations that would fit the milwaukee 6 pin spur sprocket? I would really appreciate your insights into this matter.
I found out that a different sprocket drum would need to match these dimensions, do these even exist?
Overall Height 1"
Outside Diameter 2.20"
Inside Diameter 2.005"
Teeth/pins 8
Shaft 0.393" Diameter
0.320" Across Flats
@johnscustomsaws If there is no replacement sprocket drum for the The milwaukee 16" chainsaw (2727-20), what specifications would I need to look for in a .325 pitch chain/bar combo for it to fit on the original 6pin/tooth sprocket of the milwaukee?
Official stihl site info that "justifies" the 25x series for me:
MS251 10.8 lbs power head, 3.0bhp
MS181 10.1 lbs power head, 2.0bhp
So 50% more power for less than 10% more weight.
Make sense to me - local to me prices the 251 is less than 50% more expensive than the 181, so more bhp/dollar
Changing from a 7 tooth for an 8 tooth on a Stihl 460. Am I going to have to modify the bar or add links to the chain??? Really wanna speed it up but not sure if this is wise....
Well the sprocket is cheap typically less than $10 some saws there isn't enough extra chain play for the bigger sprocket some there is.. if you're only running 20-24" bar on that saw the 8 pin is probably a good idea
Do you know how I can convert my electric chain saw pico chain to full size regular?
Good content!
good day sir...i m from the philippines, i just wanted ask you, about 404 sprocket that will fit to a ms 382 drum... most of the chain available in our area were 404s.. is it possible....it doesnt if its 7 or 8 tooth.... thanks by the way, for your ideas about sprocket fittings....
clarification.... available 404 sprocket that will fit in a 382 clutch drum?
Hello sir..im from India
Ihave ms070 chainsaw..where can ibuy abig rim sprocket?
Good vid
Good info 👍
Używam w ms 361 łańcucha 3/8lp na prowadnicy 30" i 36" na zębatce 3/8 wymiennie z dużym łańcuchem. Masz duży spline, mały spline i mini spline.
404; 0,375, 0,325, 0,250 → 0.404; 3/8; 0,325; 1/4 w tym 3,8 duży, 3/8 niski profil, 3/8 carving 1,1 szerokość ogniwa prowadzącego. 1/4 1,3mm ogniwo prowadzące carving i 1/4 1,1.
okay well my question is how do I know what the inside diameter of the rim sprocket would be called. what to they label the sizes as. because I cannot find any information on sprocket size. I have a Husqvarna 545 mark 2 and I need to find a 7, 8, 9 or ten tooth sprocket with the smaller diameter to fit on my clutch drum and everyone I order is to big. nothing says anything about the diameter. I found a 28 inch Oregon bar that fits a small mount but I need a sprocket. probably blow my 545 up but I'm dumb so LETS GOOOO!!!! I want to do some chain saw milling and I from what I have gathered your better off having the bar sticking out of the log so it doesn't get so hot. And Oh yeah. LETS GO DETROIT LIONS Jared Goff for MVP. Lions verse dolphins is my dream super bowl match up right now. Huge fan of Dolphins head coach, Mike Daniels.I really do hope the Vikings find a Elite quarterback to utilize that star receiver lineup(because cousins is pretty...not elite) and get things running smooth. But either way GO LIONS!!!
Its a shitty time to be a Packer fan too...
Effing special teams man...
lol
SUPER
Are there people that really think that 3/8 and 1/4 are the same? That would be like trying to use a 3/8 socket on a 1/4 bolt. Another way to look at 3/8 pitch is to see the fraction ‘3/8’ as a decimal, which is .375. Likewise you can view the decimal ‘.325’ as a fraction, which is ‘13/40’. You can’t use any other chain or bar other than one that has a matching pitch( and gauge which is the width of the groove along the bar where the chain rides). A .325 sprocket can’t run a 3/8(.375) chain simply because the spacing between the teeth is .325, so something that is spaced .375 would be too big. Just like a 3/8 pitch chain on a 1/4 sprocket wouldn’t work because 1/4”is 1/8” larger than 3/8”.
Sounds like Shia Labeouf lol
screamin huskys forever
Haha. Im the first
3/8 of an inch is 0.375 of an inch if you convert fraction to decimal. 0.325 is not the same as 0.375
SKOL VIKINGS
LETS GOOOOOOOO!!!!
@@johnscustomsaws you have the HULK saw....tell me you are doing a VIKINGS saw. All purple and yellow. Leather wrap handle and and some way chainmail incorporated. Huge Vikings fan here. From Ontario, Canada near Toronto and have done the venture to the old and new stadium several times.
THE PURPLE MAPLE EATER ???
And great info about the chain and sprocket
I never understood the chase for chain speed as it doesn't get the cut that much faster so why lose the torque? Had an old 1940 style saw that ran with tons of torque and no chain speed that would cut very fast as it had a good full chisel chain which is worth way way more than a fast chain speed. People underestimate a good chain with good torque. Speed will just get you more wear, thrown chains, damage when chains throw, heat on the bar and chain, & is just almost worthless. But, thanks to ignorance of society we have high speed, high kicking, fast running chainsaws so we can do more work on the saw than cutting. I need to figure this out and see if I can get a higher torque slower speed setup somehow without running out of tensioner.
Sure, in a competition racing in a flat laying and perfectly supported log speed may matter but in use for what most need it sucks.
So in other words the two chains are two different pitches.
Продайте мені ту велику зірочку
The larger the sprocket the slower the chain runs. It will not speed the chain up.
can you explain? im genuinely curious
@@johnscustomsaws take for instance a drill press with different size pulleys used to adjust bit speed. The smaller the pulley you run the belt on,,the faster the bit turns. Smaller diameter =faster revolutions. I could be wrong but I don't think I am. If I am wrong please forgive me.
@@jameshelton2161 on dirt bikes we would change our front sprocket up a tooth and lose torque and gain speed... the race sprockets are larger so I assumed that they are increasing speed and related to the changing of the front sprocket on a dirt bike but now im not sure... I only question your statement because smaller sprockets are always on smaller CC saws and the bigger CC saws have larger sprockets... and I have personally ran an 8 pin (bigger) sprocket on a smaller saw and it robbed tons of power... so if you are correct a small sprocket increases torque AND speed... if thats the case why do they sell 14 pin huge sprockets for race saws it would slow them way down... im not trying to be a smartass either but if I am wrong I need to correct it.
Front Smaller sprockets more speed, bigger sprocket more torque! On dirt bikes or any motorbike ! I assume it’s the same principal for the chain saw!
@@kostasfrangos3354other way around. On a bike Big sprocket on front and small on the back is fast, small on the front and big on the rear is torque. On a saw the driven sprocket being bigger has a larger circumference so chain is pulled further per engine revolution ie bigger the driven sprocket the higher the chain speed if your saw has the torque/power to pull it
Your 40 now it's time for bifocals
Informative but I'm still confused because you don't know how to talk with your definitions straight I don't know the definitions man but I'm watching this video to understand the definitions and use the correct terminology when I go you know to try to purchase this type of stuff and I'm morally I'm just confused now because you're saying err and I got it wrong and then the words are flashing across the bottom telling us that you're using the wrong terms I understand but I don't understand man do it again and get it right thank you
You manner of approaching content makes the issue more confusing. Sorry, but I call them the way I see them. Don't contradict yourself, and edit out your mistakes.
Can i switch my bar and chain size from picco to 3/8 .50 on a stihl 011
Does Husqvarna make a 3/8 bar & chain that will work on a Husqvarna 550XP mark 2 . These saws only came with .325
I got that saw, and yes there are conversion kits (aftermarket not Husqvarna) but you're probably going to be better off using the .325 because it's lighter and uses less power to cut
@@JoshNoss ...Right I'm happy with my stock 550 xp. I opened the exhaust and it has tons of cutting power.
SUPER