Piston & Cylinder Kit: www.ebay.com/itm/133485836142 Oil Pump: amzn.to/3ggQOpW (affiliate*) ~OR~ www.ebay.com/itm/122592795614 Carb Adjustment Tool: amzn.to/3k0QiLc (affiliate*) Compression Tester: amzn.to/3x0cAnI (affiliate*) Hemostat Locking Forceps: amzn.to/2Uxik7l (affiliate*) Zoom Oiler (like Mustie1 uses): amzn.to/2QcbXGS (affiliate*) *Purchasing from these Amazon affiliate links earns my channel a small commission. Think of it as a tip that doesn't cost you anything. Thanks for the support!
This is the absolute best video on disassembling a Husqvarna. Instructional, informative, direct and to the point without any extra bs. Thank you 1000 times. Please make more videos. The other UA-cam videos suck.
This is the exact saw I’m working on right now and realized it only has 30 psi, I will now have the confidence to replace piston and cylinder. Thank you very much!!!
Great instructional video! I like seeing a nice clean work bench and clean parts to assemble. I also like the way you reinstall the screws by hand. It's much too easy to cross thread or over tighten screws when putting them back in with power tools, especially when they're threaded into plastic. A few suggestions would to be using a gauge to set the air gap on the coil and to get new seals for the crankcase. Even though they are still flexible they could take a set and be flattened out. I'd use a little sealant too just for good luck.
Thanks for the feedback, I appreciate it! :) I agree, normally I would have replaced the seals and it's cheap insurance. However, many signs pointed to the possibility that this saw gave up on its first tank of gas. I think the previous owner might have used bar oil instead of 2-stroke oil in the fuel. I thought it over and decided to reuse the seals.
Hi mike, I just rebuilt my top end in my husqvarna 450 rancher, thank you for this wonderful vid! I understood everything and made everything so much more simple.
Excellent video and not being a mechanic by trade, the video has given me the confidence that I can repair my 455. Compression test was 50 so I ordered a piston kit today and will use your video as a guide. Thanks for your help!!
@@Sensei948 It all depends on the brand but Husqvarna recommends a 50:1 mix. Too much 2-stroke oil mix is better than not enough, but it would probably run a little smokey and smell worse.
I had to come back and say how professional the narration, and edit and production was! Im several years late but you should be in the video production business. It was like a personally made edition of the tv show "how it's made". Thank you again!!
@@Mikeattempts oh I forgot your parents are cool. It's nice that they are supportive. Many parents aren't supportive of young men or women working or owning a business and being self sufficient. Many think the government should do it for you😂😂😂 have a great day!
This is a great, concise, and clear how to video. Refreshing. Thank you. I also saw another video with a piston similar to what you experienced. His had melted at the top of the piston and the rings had fused to it. He said it was from not allowing the saw to warm up before diving into major logging jobs.
Yeah, I think the saw was only used a little bit before it lost compression. The original owner must have used the wrong oil in the fuel or something, I'm still not sure. Thanks for watching!
Great video! I have an old husqvarna 61 and a stihl ms170 to work on. Husky has many years of faithful service on it and my dad gave it to me about 20 years ago. Gotta get her running smooth again.
I just followed this video to replace a destroyed piston in my Husqvarna 350. Two lessons here: 1. Awesome video. It was my first time rebuilding a chainsaw. 2. Have this video ready next time I loan my chainsaw to a neighbor.
@@LifeWithSevenSons "It will probably be alright"?!?! Dang, it takes some guts to say something like that after you know you just ruined your neighbor's saw. :)
@@daszieher Yeah, I feel bad declining requests to borrow my tools, but people just don't take care of stuff. You'd think if you borrowed something, you'd take even better care of it than if it was your own.
I ordered a kit for my 357 xp. I had a repair shop do it twice and it failed both times. With your help along with other you tube videos I'm gonna try it myself.
Best video for dismantling. Putting mine back together to use after hurricane Milton pushed a medium tree on both my vehicles in the driveway...could have been worse
Oh no, that sucks that your cars got hit by a fallen tree! Like you said though, luckily it wasn't worse. I'm glad the video was helpful, thanks for the comment!
HI Mike WHAT a fantastic video you made here sharp picture at all time,I like you subtitles and clear voice over ,I know as video production man how hard it is to make GOOD stuff like this ,I like your speeding up of some of the process to shortened the video time ,I have a Husqvarna 236 that looks near the same and have put the wrong fuel into to run ,a new coil and a aftermarket carburettor made it still a dead chains saw ,so I was looking for a video that give me the some info how to tackle the next job of removing and replacing the pistol ,Your Video made my day ,Thanks from LOWLAND VIDEO PRODUCTION in New Zealand for your video .
I really appreciate your kind words! I try to make my videos how I would want to watch them, all of the info you need and none of the fluff. ;) Thanks for the comment!
Nice to see a homeowner grade saw rebuilt, a little different than the professional or xp husqvarna saw. Very nice job. Compression should go up as u break it in.
Great video. This is the first video I have found actually installing the pin in the piston and the jug on to the piston. Thanks for that. Much easier than expected. Thanks. Great job. I have a stihl ms 362 that needs a jug and piston. Thx
Well on a saw it is much easier to change a piston because the crankshaft housing is open so you can clean metal shards out or something that is fallen into it to prevent that the piston gets stuck on a motorcycle its a struggle because either nothing is in there or your new piston and cylinder get destroyed so when there is something you need to take the hole engine apart and split the engine.
Interesting for me. Non-starting 450 Rancher. Good compression, new carb, fresh 'Husky' gas, etc. Piston at exhaust port looked fine. Piston on intake side however was badly scored, indented about 1/8 inch, and cracked at the skirt. The scoring was as wide as the piston rod. I didn't see anything unusual in the cylinder,. Almost like a chunk of metal was jammed at the intake port. I'll probably replace the cylinder and piston to be safe. Great video. I like that you weren't fumbling around like other videos I've watched. Very professional.
Dang, that sounds like a lot of damage. Are you the original owner? If not, maybe the previous owner ran it without the air filter and used ether to get it started. The ether would have stripped the oil from the intake side and it would have just been metal on metal. I'm no pro, just a wild guess. I don't even know if ether could cause that kind of damage. I really appreciate the positive feedback, thanks for watching!
@@Mikeattempts I was original owner. I'm guessing something got into the carb when I had the air filter off. All back together ready to start. Thanks to your video I, found how the ignition kill wires were routed. btw, I often tape the removed screws to the assemblies with masking tape. Then I know where they go. Regarding your dark piston, I might guess the gas was old, looks like varnish. tx Update, running fine now. Thx again
Thank's for the step by step guide. I've got a 445 E ii and im guessing It'll be about the same in term's of tear down. I'll save this for my rebuild when the time comes. 👍🏼
i got one a few years ago,,used it twice and never started again ,even with a new carb and plug etc..now i am ready to tear it down and see what happened,,i can see a little scoring on the piston so now i feel confidant on puttting in a new "c0mbo" with Your video,,,Thanks !!!!
I'm doing this repair today on a saw that I accidentally poured the wrong can of non mix gas into. I have 2 guesses as to what happened to your saw, 1. Some idiots will use used motor oil and mix it at a higher oil ratio thinking they will save money or a trip to town. It ruins them pretty quick from people Ive heard stories about that mistake. That aftermath usually leaves more wear and scarring. 2. They used bar and chain oil instead of 2stroke oil. But if i were a betting man this is why the saw failed. Thanks for the video. The instructions will be invaluable.
Yeah my saw with many hard hours on it came apart easily until the cylinder bolts. Snapped 2 decent quality Allen wrenches, Kobalt and Craftsman. Tomorrow i will ball file the heads off and replace the cylinder hardware with new. I do want to get one out to see if they used a thread locking compound.
Great step by step clear build video. I may rebuild my dad's old 1989 huasqvarna 66 now. Appreciate the clarity with this model'svideo. Take care, from Atlantic Canada. You attempted and succeeded!
Thank you very much! I am going through the same on my 435 and was doubtful of the force necessary on the wrist pin. By the way, your parents might want to get you a new sign where it says "Mike succeeds" 😊
Thank you for your very helpfull guide! I apologized but my English is rather bad. I manage to change piston ring of my 440II because it hadn't any compression. I found original ring piston completely closed around piston. I had to chance it becuase I've broken it during maintenance. Cilinder surface wasn' t ruined, however even if motorsaw functions, it seems to have not original compression. Bye from Itay.
Yeah, you probably wouldn't see original compression levels when only replacing the piston ring, but I'm no pro. Even if the cylinder looks ok, it's probably still a least a little worn. But, as long as it runs and cuts, I would call that a success. :) Thanks for watching!
Use 2 stroke oil, not a 3 in 1 oil for gasket and ring lubrication. Also when removing wrist pin, if it’s not coming out easy, and you’ve tried lubrication and twisting it, ensure the Conrod is fully supported if you take a hammer and punch to it, you’ll easily knacker or put the conrod/bearing/crank out of tru :) Torque wrench for re fitting Thanks for the vid though very handy
The torque spec for the cylinder bolts, for 445/450 saws should be 13-15 Nm. However, I'm pretty sure they'd be different for each model/brand so be sure to look it up for your specific saw. Thanks for watching!
Exactly the kind of video you look for when you are having some trouble fixing a Saw,. Awesome content and you did an excellent job of explaining everything you did!!! In my opinion a great job. With love peace and saw Grease Jay small
I have a Husky 345 I just bought a new cylinder head kit for off the Amazon (Chinese). I am having one heck of a time trying to get the cylinder over the piston. I wonder if there's not enough taper on the bore or what. I bought a set of plastic ring compressors but so far they've been useless. Guess I'll try a zip tie and see if that works. Otherwise, although a different model, the video was very informative.
I'm glad the video was helpful. So, you bought the new piston and cylinder together? I've heard of people buying them separate only to find out the piston was a hair too big. My suggestion would have been to compress the ring, so it sounds like you're on the right track. I would imagine you'll hafta sneak up on it and give it a quick thump to knock off the zip tie and get it in the cylinder before the ring has a chance to expand. ;) Let me know how it goes!
@@Mikeattempts Yes, I bought as a kit. I actually managed (after an hour +) to get the piston in the cylinder, but I was worried the permatex high heat sealant had been exposed too long so I disassembled it. Now it seems I can't get it right. I can place the old cylinder over easily with only my fingers. IDK. Any recommendations for a kit for a Husky 345?
@@mandrix6323 Dang, it sounds like it's really not cooperating, that sucks. You could try cutting about an inch off the end of a caulking tube, put a slit up the side, and trim it so there's a gap when wrapped around the piston. Then put a zip tie around it to compress the ring, lube it up, and try to pop it in. eBay is a great place to find good chainsaw parts, if you can't make the Amazon parts work.
@@Mikeattempts It's an idea. I cut a piece thin aluminum and made a sleeve with it but that did not work either. I CAN easily put the old cylinder on so I may call it done and buy another kit as I'm ready to take my B.F.H. to this thing. Thanks for the suggestion.
On 2 strokes, there is no need for "assembly lube." Best practice is to use your 2 cycle oil straight from the bottle. I use a disposable pipette. Before you drop in the worm for the oil pump, put a small dab of grease on it and spread it around. Less is better, but it's also just about all the lube it will see. To tighten the clutch, put the side cover on, start the saw, rev it and immediately bump the chain brake. I've had them back off and roll across the shop which also usually sends the needle bearings flying too. You're best off making an attempt to snug it up, but just operating the saw will do it.
When I got a chainsaw with low compression and black piston. The piston ring is maybe stuck. I try with grill cleaner down in the spark plug hole and lat it work for a while. That help some times.
Yeah, that was the case with this one. I thought I saw vertical scratches through the muffler port, but they were just marks in the tacky black coating. I kept the old parts, just in case.
Iv had 2 of these saws . 1st one wldnt run after 2 tanks of fuel and second lasted about 4 tanks . I dropped it at the shop and they said it needed piston , rings ,and cylinder. I have owned numerous husky saws over years and have never had a problem with them until these
Hmm, that's strange. All I've ever owned are Husqvarna saws and I've never had any problems either. My guess is that the wrong kind of oil was used in the fuel on this one. With the new piston and cylinder, so far it's running good.
Personally, I Always lay my cordless drills on their side on the bench. That way, they can't fall any further or get knocked off the bench and crack. But, each to their own. Thanks for the video. Oh, btw, Fault, Definitely wrong fuel/oil mix caused it, but quite possible used that fancy hi octane unleaded fuel. Just normal unleaded should be used.
That's why I like the M18 battery powered tools, most will stand upright without easily tipping over. Yeah, I think the previous owner might have used bar oil in the fuel. :)
Hi Mike, You should have done vacuum and pressure test before and after, replacing the bearing seal assy is also a must if you have vacuum leak. Regards.
I did a compression test before and after. The only reason I didn't replace the seals was because I'm pretty sure the saw was new and died on the first tank of fuel.
Awesome presentation of swapping out the old head and piston. I am going thru a NepTec saw that the same had happened. I can't even pull the recoil. I have no idea if this Neo Tec is a Stihl knock off. Those compression testers come in real handy. So this question is on another subject. You have your standard plug and then you have the plugs that only have threads as for ATV's. Have you ran across a tester for those types yet? I've looked but maybe am not putting the correct search terms
@@Mikeattempts I’m working on a brand new echo that I accidentally ran bad gas through. Cut a couple trees is all it cut up. I was encouraged to blow it off and take it back to the store as a defect. Couldn’t bring myself to do it. I winced and ordered a cylinder and piston kit Your video was a huge help. Never had an engine fully disassembled. Didn’t know if the piston came out without destroying the clips. Now if I can remember how to put it back together once I get the parts! 👍
Hi Mike. Thanks for sharing your experience through this video. Please let me know how the cylinder kit is so far? Do you think is reliable? I will really appreciate if you can share some information. Thanks
I was impressed with the quality of the aftermarket cylinder and piston. The OEM parts do seem a little better, but they also cost more. The saw runs and cuts great so I would buy aftermarket parts again, if they were substantially cheaper.
After the failure to install the cylinder over the piston with my first kit (Husky 345) , I bought another one. I put the ring on the piston and was able to insert it into the cylinder. But I will be darned if once the piston is on the rod if I can get the piston to slide in. It hits the taper on the cylinder and just stops, best I can tell. Using a zip tie did nothing for me. Finally the high heat permatex had set up so I quit and cleaned it all up. I used to rebuild two stroke MC engines (and car engines) starting at age 15. So it's not like I'm a total klutz. Looking at the interior of the cylinder it "looks" identical to the original, and I can slide the original right on down. I am without understanding. Guess I just needed to vent.
Did you try cussing, sometimes that helps? Hahaha! Dang, that's so strange and hasta be super frustrating. It sounds like you're far more experienced with engine rebuilds than me so I don't know what I could suggest that you probably haven't already thought of. That's not gonna stop me though! If you can get the piston in without the rod attached then the only thing I can assume is, when the rod is connected, maybe it's causing the piston to enter at a slight angle. Maybe you could try putting some grease around the ring, hold the cylinder with your thumbs on top and your fingers on the bottom. Then use your middle and ring fingers, from both hands, to put even pressure on the bottom of the piston skirt. Slowly and evenly squeeze while swearing at it for added intimidation. ;)
@@Mikeattempts lol. I think I've been swearing enough already! I was looking at the original cylinder and actually does not look bad. Certainly nothing that catches my fingernail. I believe I will sand out minor discolorations with some 400 grit sandpaper and try to reuse it, as I can fit it over the piston no problem. Thanks for your suggestions, Mike.
@@mandrix6323 So, when you started this project, how long did you think it would take vs reality? I actually enjoy stories of other peoples' struggles with this sort of stuff. It makes me realize I'm not alone, it happens to all of us! :) Let me know how it turns out.
@@MikeattemptsMike I expected to be finished with actual complete reassembly in an hour or so. Of course disassembly and cleanup beforehand was an hour or two. I read all over UA-cam where the cause of piston scoring/ring stuck in the land is the result of running unmixed gas. I have never ever done that. But last year hurricane Idalia tore my place up as a CAT 3 and took down many trees, and the little saw got a workout. I actually bought a Husky (445?) during that time as well. I'm thinking I'm going to change the oil/gas mix to 40/45 :1 and see if the saws still run well.
Hey Mike - thanks for the video and detailed instructions. I have a Husqvarna 440 that was run mostly with gasoline without 2 cycle oil and it barely has any compression(and.. doesn't start at all). I'm very inexperienced with anything mechanical and I would like to know if you would recommend replacing the carburetor and/or any other parts aside from the Piston and Cylinder? - thanks in advance!
I'm no pro but I would guess the carb is fine. I would replace the piston and cylinder and see how it runs. If it seems to run poorly and adjusting the carb doesn't help, you could get a rebuild kit that contains all of the carb gaskets, diaphragms, needle, spring, etc. I have another video cleaning a Husky carb, it's not too hard. Let me know how it goes!
1 like... 19:56 to 20:10: very noticable, me too. This type of carb is inconvenient to adjust to archieve the optimized status of the engine. Do you know reasons why Husqvarna have chosen this type of carn while the others are convenient and effective in reality?
The editing makes it look easier than it actually was. ;) I'm no pro but the only things that could cause low compression, that I know of, would be a stuck piston ring or a scored cylinder. Remove the muffler and you should be able to see if there's any scoring on the piston. You should also be able to tell if the ring is stuck by lining it up to the exhaust port and trying to compress/move it with something plastic or wooden like a chopstick.
@@Mikeattempts Its new piston and cylinder oem parts, after trying few after market parts they all have different issue especially leak problem wasn't lucky to get a good one. So decided stay Ordinal. I am wondering if my compression test throwing me off. I tried to start it anyway but keep backfiring. Thank you for replying, you inspired me to rebuild my chainsaw despite i don't get it running yet. Even though you edit the vid its, well done.
@@barberg5694 Oh, it already has a new piston and cylinder, got it. I've seen bad compression readings from certain testers so, if you have a new OEM piston, piston ring, and cylinder, I don't think compression is your issue. I would just double check to be sure you got all of the fuel lines connected properly to and from the carb and primer bulb. Also, make sure none of the fuel lines are kinked or twisted. If all of that has been confirmed, and it still won't start, you could try turning in both the Low and High speed carb jets all the way in and then turn them each out 1.5 turns and then try starting again. Let me know how it goes.
I forgot to mention that i remove the flywheel to do a leak test, wasn't sure how to reset the timing, maybe that's reason for low compression and backfire. Which causes too much fuel to enter the cylinder. Any idea and how to do the timing.
Which oil can I use to lubricate the crankshaft bearings? (zoom oil is not available where I live). I am going to use engine oil but which Viscousity is recommnended?
I'm no pro but at 7:48, I just used SAE 30W oil to lube the needle bearings. I've also used 00 grease on the needle bearing under the clutch so I'm sure either would be perfectly fine. Gear oil would probably be another good option.
Because of the tacky coating on the piston and cylinder wall, I kinda think maybe the original owner tried to use bar oil instead of 2-stroke oil in the fuel. :)
Thanks, very helpful video I just have a question how much can I charge to change just piston n rings on one of these chopsaws? Im new on side jobs and I want to have an idea of an estimate charge like i mentioned before just for piston n rings replacement
I'm not sure, I'm not a pro, this was the first time I ever did a piston and cylinder. I guess I would call a few local small engine repair shops and ask 'em how much it would cost to replace the piston and rings. Then you can charge a bit less and I'm sure the customer would be happy. Once you've done a few jobs then you could figure out a fair hourly rate and then also charge for parts.
Agree with comments re 2-cycle oil quality, fuel quality, probably too much oil, so... black internals, stuck ring. (Not that complicated, people: use new hi-test gas and synthetic 2-stroke oil at 50:1. These, at +/- 140 to 150 psi, are comparatively "high compression" engines.) Little quibble... way to adjust ignition clearance is to put a piece of thick paper between the magnet and the leg from the module, tighten down the module, then rotate out the piece of thick paper. Other quibble... Like the other guy, I would have changed out the crank seals just because. These things are sort of a modern comparable to what "Volkswagens" used to be. Not a "pro saw." But not the typical junk that comes from the "box stores." Relatively very easy to take apart and fix (no case splitting, etc.) Parts pretty much available and reasonably priced.... Fascinating that yours was so clean on the outside....?
I honestly think it was so clean because it failed on the first tank of fuel. That's the only reason I didn't replace the crank seals. I completely agree that it's best practice and if you already have it torn apart, just replace them. I think maybe the original owner used motor oil or possibly even bar oil instead of 2-stroke. The good news is that the original parts seem to be perfectly fine, they just need cleaning. Thanks for the tip about the ignition clearance and thank you for the comment! :)
Hi, I have a husqvarna 128cd, that recently changed the piston, carb, fuel lines and spark. It won't start. Spark is fine (sparking), fuel lines are ok, and carb is new. What could it be? Compression? Something I noticed is that the cylinder / piston ring was too loose. Could this be the problem? Unfortunately, I don't have the compression gauge for testing.
I'm no pro but, unless you have the fuel lines connected to the wrong ports on the carb, it sounds like you have everything you need except compression. You only replaced the piston, not the cylinder? I guess there's a chance that the piston is the wrong diameter. Were you able to compare the old piston with the new one before installation?
@@anrivera1975 Hmm, I assume you bought the piston and cylinder in a kit so they should match. Did you double-check the fuel line connections to the carb? Did you adjust the high and low jets on the carburetor? Turn them in all the way and then out 1.5 turns.
When I rebuilt my chainsaw and tried to start it and it would idle great but would bog out when pulling the trigger. I tried to adjust it but it didn't work. Any ideas. It did sit for a year with fuel because the first motor blew up.
I'm no pro but I do have a few ideas. 1) A fuel line could be twisted or kinked. That would allow enough fuel to idle but not enough to rev up. 2) The carb could have a partial blockage. It doesn't take much at all to mess up a carb and I have a chainsaw carb cleaning video too, if needed. 3) The carb be out of adjustment. This is less likely because the jets don't move on their own. The base starting point is to turn the high and low speed jets all the way in and then back out 1.5 turns. Once running, adjust as necessary.
I got my aftermarket kit from eBay and was surprised by the quality. I'm not saying it was as good as OEM but the casting, fit, and finish was nice. I assume the stuff on Amazon is the same as the stuff on eBay. If buying on Amazon, I'd just read the reviews before making a decision. If buying on eBay, I wouldn't purchase from any seller with less than a 99.0% Feedback Rating.
Did you try swearing more, that sometimes helps? ;) So, you got all 4 cylinder bolts removed from the bottom? Is it possible that the piston is seized in the cylinder? If so, you could stick a wooden dowel down the spark plug hole and try to tap the piston down while pulling up on the cylinder. If it's not the piston, you could just try tapping the top of the cylinder forwards and backwards, with a rubber mallet, in hopes of breaking the seal. I'm just throwing out ideas, I'm not a pro. Let me know how it goes!
@@Mikeattempts piston moves up and down so not seized. Tried hitting it with a rubber mallet - there is still compression in the cylinder if you turn the flywheel and put your thumb over the openings so seems like the seal is not breaking. As well as the bolts (which I have completely removed) there seem to be four little plugs coming up through - which might be from the gasket maybe. Don’t want to slip anything under the cylinder to break the seal I case I scratch the base as I only have a replacement piston not the cylinder.
@@sophielaurie6510 Hmm, that's odd. You could try turning the saw upside down and use a piece of wood pressed against the bottom/side of the cylinder and tap on the wood with the mallet. Just be careful not to break any fins. I'm curious why it's stuck so, if you're able to get it off, let me know what was holding it.
@@sophielaurie6510 You'll get it! Have you tried securing the body of the saw while twisting the cylinder? I just wonder if there's something else holding it? I would think a stuck seal wouldn't be enough to withstand all of the things you've tried so far.
Low compression you say? I think the machining Horizontal ring marks On the piston have worn off, so the oil doesn’t stick to the piston as well as when new, so the seal isn’t as good.
From what I can tell, the saw looks like it might have died on the first tank of fuel because bar oil was used for the mix. The piston ring was completely compressed and stuck in the groove. With a good soak, I think the original piston and cylinder might be good as new. Thanks for watching!
When I said "You've done it before" it wasn't about switching the pistons but chainsaws in general and yes, I can get the saw taken apart in not time but the fun starts when fiddling all back together correctly. Take care and try to stay out of trouble!
You mean the case that hold chainsaw chains? I'm no pro, just a regular guy who needs a chainsaw every now and then. I don't currently have a need for a case that hold 20 chains. I usually only have 2 chains per saw, one is on the saw and the other is either still in the unopened package or hanging on a nail. :)
Thanks, I appreciate it! I do have a 450 but hopefully it doesn't need a new piston and cylinder anytime soon. :) The good news is that the procedure would be very similar to this one.
Piston & Cylinder Kit:
www.ebay.com/itm/133485836142
Oil Pump:
amzn.to/3ggQOpW (affiliate*)
~OR~
www.ebay.com/itm/122592795614
Carb Adjustment Tool:
amzn.to/3k0QiLc (affiliate*)
Compression Tester:
amzn.to/3x0cAnI (affiliate*)
Hemostat Locking Forceps:
amzn.to/2Uxik7l (affiliate*)
Zoom Oiler (like Mustie1 uses):
amzn.to/2QcbXGS (affiliate*)
*Purchasing from these Amazon affiliate links earns my channel a small commission. Think of it as a tip that doesn't cost you anything. Thanks for the support!
This is the absolute best video on disassembling a Husqvarna. Instructional, informative, direct and to the point without any extra bs. Thank you 1000 times. Please make more videos. The other UA-cam videos suck.
Thanks man, I appreciate it!
This is the exact saw I’m working on right now and realized it only has 30 psi, I will now have the confidence to replace piston and cylinder. Thank you very much!!!
I'm happy to hear the video was helpful, let me know how it goes!
Incredibly thorough without any waste, what a thoughtful video.
Thanks, I really appreciate the positive feedback!
Great instructional video! I like seeing a nice clean work bench and clean parts to assemble. I also like the way you reinstall the screws by hand. It's much too easy to cross thread or over tighten screws when putting them back in with power tools, especially when they're threaded into plastic. A few suggestions would to be using a gauge to set the air gap on the coil and to get new seals for the crankcase. Even though they are still flexible they could take a set and be flattened out. I'd use a little sealant too just for good luck.
Thanks for the feedback, I appreciate it! :) I agree, normally I would have replaced the seals and it's cheap insurance. However, many signs pointed to the possibility that this saw gave up on its first tank of gas. I think the previous owner might have used bar oil instead of 2-stroke oil in the fuel. I thought it over and decided to reuse the seals.
Top Notch. Thanks Mike, salvaged a knackered Husqvarna thanks to your video. Keep them coming.
Awesome, I'm happy to hear the video was helpful! Thanks for taking the time to leave a comment, I appreciate it. :)
Hi mike, I just rebuilt my top end in my husqvarna 450 rancher, thank you for this wonderful vid! I understood everything and made everything so much more simple.
That's great to hear, thanks for the comment! :)
@@Mikeattempts Thanks for the vid!
Excellent video and not being a mechanic by trade, the video has given me the confidence that I can repair my 455. Compression test was 50 so I ordered a piston kit today and will use your video as a guide. Thanks for your help!!
If I can do it, you can do it. :) Thanks for watching!
50 is awful low. Did the saw get straight gassed?
6 months later - how did the 445 repair go?
@@viperstrike3827 I must have straight gassed mine without knowing it. So I just ordered a kit for my 460. Hopefully I can do this!
My respect, Mike! Great video. Thank you so much for filming it.
Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave a comment, I appreciate it!
This is one of the better disassembly videos I have seen! Nicely done! 😃
Thanks, I appreciate it! :)
@@Mikeattempts 33:1 oil mix is ok ?
@@Sensei948 It all depends on the brand but Husqvarna recommends a 50:1 mix. Too much 2-stroke oil mix is better than not enough, but it would probably run a little smokey and smell worse.
Great confidence builder.
I'll check out my 440 on a warm day.
Thanks Mike!
Thanks for watching!
I had to come back and say how professional the narration, and edit and production was! Im several years late but you should be in the video production business. It was like a personally made edition of the tv show "how it's made". Thank you again!!
Wow, thanks for the positive feedback! Editing is by far the most time-consuming part so it's nice to know people appreciate my video style.
@@Mikeattempts oh I forgot your parents are cool. It's nice that they are supportive. Many parents aren't supportive of young men or women working or owning a business and being self sufficient. Many think the government should do it for you😂😂😂 have a great day!
@@bobdixon4998 Yep, it is nice to have the support, thanks for the comment!
This is a great, concise, and clear how to video. Refreshing. Thank you. I also saw another video with a piston similar to what you experienced. His had melted at the top of the piston and the rings had fused to it. He said it was from not allowing the saw to warm up before diving into major logging jobs.
Thank you! Dang, that sound like a pretty extreme failure. I was able to clean the original parts and they're in great shape.
It looks like it has never been used to cut wood. Thanks for sharing!
Yeah, I think the saw was only used a little bit before it lost compression. The original owner must have used the wrong oil in the fuel or something, I'm still not sure. Thanks for watching!
Great video! I have an old husqvarna 61 and a stihl ms170 to work on. Husky has many years of faithful service on it and my dad gave it to me about 20 years ago. Gotta get her running smooth again.
Thanks! This was my first time replacing cylinder and piston. If I can do it, so can you! :) Let me know how it goes!
Mike, that was a fantastic video! Professionally done. Thank you so much. I plan to attempt the same rebuild on the 440 this weekend.
I appreciate the positive feedback, thanks for the comment! :)
I just followed this video to replace a destroyed piston in my Husqvarna 350.
Two lessons here:
1. Awesome video. It was my first time rebuilding a chainsaw.
2. Have this video ready next time I loan my chainsaw to a neighbor.
Hahaha, I'm glad the video was helpful! That neighbor would now be on my "Do Not Lend Tools" list. ;)
@@Mikeattempts Same. His words were: "It stopped suddenly and was smoking, and I couldn't pull it, but it will probably be alright." 😂
@@LifeWithSevenSons "It will probably be alright"?!?! Dang, it takes some guts to say something like that after you know you just ruined your neighbor's saw. :)
@@Mikeattemptsmy neighbour and I both have good tools and take care of them. We don't lend them out, not even to each other 😂.
@@daszieher Yeah, I feel bad declining requests to borrow my tools, but people just don't take care of stuff. You'd think if you borrowed something, you'd take even better care of it than if it was your own.
Best video of replacing piston & cylinder.Love from Borneo Island🫡
Thank you very much, I appreciate the feedback. I'm also amazed to have a viewer from Borneo! :)
I ordered a kit for my 357 xp. I had a repair shop do it twice and it failed both times.
With your help along with other you tube videos I'm gonna try it myself.
That's odd, any idea what made it fail? That's cool you're gonna tackle it yourself this time, let me know how it goes!
Just did this on my 435. Worked great! Super helpful video.
That's good to hear, thanks for the feedback! :)
Best video for dismantling. Putting mine back together to use after hurricane Milton pushed a medium tree on both my vehicles in the driveway...could have been worse
Oh no, that sucks that your cars got hit by a fallen tree! Like you said though, luckily it wasn't worse. I'm glad the video was helpful, thanks for the comment!
I know everyone has already told you, but I also just wanted to say what a great video!!! Thank you for taking the time to make it.
Thank you for taking the time to watch it and leave me some positive feedback!
HI Mike WHAT a fantastic video you made here sharp picture at all time,I like you subtitles and clear voice over ,I know as video production man how hard it is to make GOOD stuff like this ,I like your speeding up of some of the process to shortened the video time ,I have a Husqvarna 236 that looks near the same and have put the wrong fuel into to run ,a new coil and a aftermarket carburettor made it still a dead chains saw ,so I was looking for a video that give me the some info how to tackle the next job of removing and replacing the pistol ,Your Video made my day ,Thanks from LOWLAND VIDEO PRODUCTION in New Zealand for your video .
I really appreciate your kind words! I try to make my videos how I would want to watch them, all of the info you need and none of the fluff. ;) Thanks for the comment!
I wish you had not made that look so straight forward and easy. Oh did I say fun? Thank you sir!
Hahaha, thanks, I appreciate it! :)
Nice to see a homeowner grade saw rebuilt, a little different than the professional or xp husqvarna saw. Very nice job. Compression should go up as u break it in.
Thanks for the feedback, I appreciate it! :)
You must be a master at small engine repair
Far from it, this was the first time I've ever replaced a cylinder and piston. Thanks for watching!
Great video. This is the first video I have found actually installing the pin in the piston and the jug on to the piston. Thanks for that. Much easier than expected. Thanks. Great job. I have a stihl ms 362 that needs a jug and piston. Thx
I'm always happy to hear when my videos are helpful, thanks for the comment!
Well on a saw it is much easier to change a piston because the crankshaft housing is open so you can clean metal shards out or something that is fallen into it to prevent that the piston gets stuck on a motorcycle its a struggle because either nothing is in there or your new piston and cylinder get destroyed so when there is something you need to take the hole engine apart and split the engine.
Interesting for me. Non-starting 450 Rancher. Good compression, new carb, fresh 'Husky' gas, etc. Piston at exhaust port looked fine. Piston on intake side however was badly scored, indented about 1/8 inch, and cracked at the skirt. The scoring was as wide as the piston rod. I didn't see anything unusual in the cylinder,. Almost like a chunk of metal was jammed at the intake port. I'll probably replace the cylinder and piston to be safe.
Great video. I like that you weren't fumbling around like other videos I've watched. Very professional.
Dang, that sounds like a lot of damage. Are you the original owner? If not, maybe the previous owner ran it without the air filter and used ether to get it started. The ether would have stripped the oil from the intake side and it would have just been metal on metal. I'm no pro, just a wild guess. I don't even know if ether could cause that kind of damage. I really appreciate the positive feedback, thanks for watching!
@@Mikeattempts I was original owner. I'm guessing something got into the carb when I had the air filter off. All back together ready to start. Thanks to your video I, found how the ignition kill wires were routed.
btw, I often tape the removed screws to the assemblies with masking tape. Then I know where they go.
Regarding your dark piston, I might guess the gas was old, looks like varnish. tx
Update, running fine now. Thx again
@@dalebertdurando1496 Thanks for the update, I'm glad you got it fixed.
ok 3years old, when I needed it. Thanks for your help.
I'm glad it was helpful, thanks for the comment!
Great video ...in the process of recylindering my Craftsmen saw
Thanks, let me know how it goes with the Craftsman!
Wow, I hope my repair goes 1/5th as easy as you show here on my 460 Rancher!
I hope so too, let me know how it goes!
Thank's for the step by step guide. I've got a 445 E ii and im guessing It'll be about the same in term's of tear down. I'll save this for my rebuild when the time comes. 👍🏼
Yep, it should be almost exactly the same, let me know how it goes! :)
A fresh piston and rings is a happy saw and man! 😀😀 Great job!
Yep, thanks for watchin'!
i got one a few years ago,,used it twice and never started again ,even with a new carb and plug etc..now i am ready to tear it down and see what happened,,i can see a little scoring on the piston so now i feel confidant on puttting in a new "c0mbo" with Your video,,,Thanks !!!!
I'm glad the video was helpful, let me know how your rebuild goes! :)
I'm doing this repair today on a saw that I accidentally poured the wrong can of non mix gas into. I have 2 guesses as to what happened to your saw, 1. Some idiots will use used motor oil and mix it at a higher oil ratio thinking they will save money or a trip to town. It ruins them pretty quick from people Ive heard stories about that mistake. That aftermath usually leaves more wear and scarring. 2. They used bar and chain oil instead of 2stroke oil. But if i were a betting man this is why the saw failed.
Thanks for the video. The instructions will be invaluable.
I agree, I think it was a brand-new saw being operated by a first timer and they used bar oil instead of 2-stroke in the fuel.
Yeah my saw with many hard hours on it came apart easily until the cylinder bolts. Snapped 2 decent quality Allen wrenches, Kobalt and Craftsman. Tomorrow i will ball file the heads off and replace the cylinder hardware with new. I do want to get one out to see if they used a thread locking compound.
@@How2Man_101 Man, that sucks when a project is going smooth and then all of a sudden throws you a curve ball! Let me know how it goes.
Great step by step clear build video. I may rebuild my dad's old 1989 huasqvarna 66 now. Appreciate the clarity with this model'svideo. Take care, from Atlantic Canada. You attempted and succeeded!
Thanks for the comment, I appreciate it! Let me know how it goes with the Husky 66.
Thank you very much! I am going through the same on my 435 and was doubtful of the force necessary on the wrist pin.
By the way, your parents might want to get you a new sign where it says "Mike succeeds" 😊
Hahaha, I appreciate the sign suggestion. ;) I'm glad the video was helpful, thanks for the comments!
I really enjoyed your video…thanks for posting!
Thanks for the positive feedback, I appreciate it!
Thanks Mike for making this video.
Thank you for watching the video! :)
Details were AWESOME!!!
Thanks, I appreciate the feedback!
@@Mikeattempts now if you could figure out how to get a hemorrhoid from sticking to the underwear? You could be a called the G. O. A. T....
@@wingnutt4200 Hahahahaha!
Need to do this repair as well, you make it look easy, thanks for sharing.
I appreciate the comment, thanks for watching!
Man you did a GREAT JOB on this!!!!
I appreciate the positive feedback, thanks for watching!
Excellent video . Superb clear instructions . Thanks.
I appreciate the comment, thanks for watching!
Thank you for your very helpfull guide! I apologized but my English is rather bad. I manage to change piston ring of my 440II because it hadn't any compression. I found original ring piston completely closed around piston. I had to chance it becuase I've broken it during maintenance. Cilinder surface wasn' t ruined, however even if motorsaw functions, it seems to have not original compression. Bye from Itay.
Yeah, you probably wouldn't see original compression levels when only replacing the piston ring, but I'm no pro. Even if the cylinder looks ok, it's probably still a least a little worn. But, as long as it runs and cuts, I would call that a success. :) Thanks for watching!
Awesome video. I may be doing this procedure on a cs620p saw I just got that only has 90 psi of compression.
Cool, let me know how it goes, thanks for watching!
Use 2 stroke oil, not a 3 in 1 oil for gasket and ring lubrication.
Also when removing wrist pin, if it’s not coming out easy, and you’ve tried lubrication and twisting it, ensure the Conrod is fully supported if you take a hammer and punch to it, you’ll easily knacker or put the conrod/bearing/crank out of tru :)
Torque wrench for re fitting
Thanks for the vid though very handy
Thanks for the tips and thanks for watching!
Thanks great video: don't you have a torque setting for the crank case bolts to the cylinder ?
The torque spec for the cylinder bolts, for 445/450 saws should be 13-15 Nm. However, I'm pretty sure they'd be different for each model/brand so be sure to look it up for your specific saw. Thanks for watching!
Excellent video, thank you for publishing it.
Thank you for watching it! :)
Exactly the kind of video you look for when you are having some trouble fixing a Saw,. Awesome content and you did an excellent job of explaining everything you did!!! In my opinion a great job.
With love peace and saw Grease Jay small
Thank you, I really appreciate the positive feedback! :)
Wow! Nice and clear. I will try the rebuild my self. Thanks
I appreciate the positive feedback, thanks for watching!
Very good video Mike , I will be watching more of your videos..
Thanks, I appreciate it!
I have a Husky 345 I just bought a new cylinder head kit for off the Amazon (Chinese). I am having one heck of a time trying to get the cylinder over the piston. I wonder if there's not enough taper on the bore or what. I bought a set of plastic ring compressors but so far they've been useless. Guess I'll try a zip tie and see if that works.
Otherwise, although a different model, the video was very informative.
I'm glad the video was helpful. So, you bought the new piston and cylinder together? I've heard of people buying them separate only to find out the piston was a hair too big. My suggestion would have been to compress the ring, so it sounds like you're on the right track. I would imagine you'll hafta sneak up on it and give it a quick thump to knock off the zip tie and get it in the cylinder before the ring has a chance to expand. ;) Let me know how it goes!
@@Mikeattempts Yes, I bought as a kit. I actually managed (after an hour +) to get the piston in the cylinder, but I was worried the permatex high heat sealant had been exposed too long so I disassembled it. Now it seems I can't get it right. I can place the old cylinder over easily with only my fingers. IDK. Any recommendations for a kit for a Husky 345?
@@mandrix6323 Dang, it sounds like it's really not cooperating, that sucks. You could try cutting about an inch off the end of a caulking tube, put a slit up the side, and trim it so there's a gap when wrapped around the piston. Then put a zip tie around it to compress the ring, lube it up, and try to pop it in. eBay is a great place to find good chainsaw parts, if you can't make the Amazon parts work.
@@Mikeattempts It's an idea. I cut a piece thin aluminum and made a sleeve with it but that did not work either. I CAN easily put the old cylinder on so I may call it done and buy another kit as I'm ready to take my B.F.H. to this thing. Thanks for the suggestion.
@@mandrix6323 Hahaha, it sounds like you have more patience than me because I would have already smashed it with a BFH! ;)
I loved it, thanks so much! Can you also show how to remove the clutch?
I actually already have a clutch removal video ua-cam.com/video/YxnmeYzPbrc/v-deo.html :)
On 2 strokes, there is no need for "assembly lube." Best practice is to use your 2 cycle oil straight from the bottle. I use a disposable pipette. Before you drop in the worm for the oil pump, put a small dab of grease on it and spread it around. Less is better, but it's also just about all the lube it will see. To tighten the clutch, put the side cover on, start the saw, rev it and immediately bump the chain brake. I've had them back off and roll across the shop which also usually sends the needle bearings flying too. You're best off making an attempt to snug it up, but just operating the saw will do it.
Cool, thanks for the tips!
When I got a chainsaw with low compression and black piston. The piston ring is maybe stuck. I try with grill cleaner down in the spark plug hole and lat it work for a while. That help some times.
Yeah, that was the case with this one. I thought I saw vertical scratches through the muffler port, but they were just marks in the tacky black coating. I kept the old parts, just in case.
2 stroke oil mix in exess of 2% caused that. You could have done with just changing the piston since the cylinder was ok. Great video.
Thanks! Yeah, I think I could have reused both the piston and the cylinder and only replaced the ring.
Good job and explanation on the repair and video. Very clear, thank you for your efforts.
Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching!
@@Mikeattempts actually was looking for the same type of video for a Husqvarna 575XP, if you should be thinking of doing one for that machine?
@@riten2 I don't have access to a 575XP but, the good news is, the process is pretty much the same for any Husqvarna chainsaw.
Iv had 2 of these saws . 1st one wldnt run after 2 tanks of fuel and second lasted about 4 tanks . I dropped it at the shop and they said it needed piston , rings ,and cylinder. I have owned numerous husky saws over years and have never had a problem with them until these
Hmm, that's strange. All I've ever owned are Husqvarna saws and I've never had any problems either. My guess is that the wrong kind of oil was used in the fuel on this one. With the new piston and cylinder, so far it's running good.
yeah, ours failed too whereas 365 still going strong after 20+ years
Personally, I Always lay my cordless drills on their side on the bench. That way, they can't fall any further or get knocked off the bench and crack. But, each to their own. Thanks for the video.
Oh, btw, Fault, Definitely wrong fuel/oil mix caused it, but quite possible used that fancy hi octane unleaded fuel. Just normal unleaded should be used.
That's why I like the M18 battery powered tools, most will stand upright without easily tipping over. Yeah, I think the previous owner might have used bar oil in the fuel. :)
Hi Mike,
You should have done vacuum and pressure test before and after, replacing the bearing seal assy is also a must if you have vacuum leak.
Regards.
I did a compression test before and after. The only reason I didn't replace the seals was because I'm pretty sure the saw was new and died on the first tank of fuel.
Awesome presentation of swapping out the old head and piston. I am going thru a NepTec saw that the same had happened. I can't even pull the recoil. I have no idea if this Neo Tec is a Stihl knock off. Those compression testers come in real handy. So this question is on another subject. You have your standard plug and then you have the plugs that only have threads as for ATV's. Have you ran across a tester for those types yet? I've looked but maybe am not putting the correct search terms
The compression testers I've seen usually come with the most common thread adaptors, so you just pick the one you need.
No the compression, I'm referring to the spark tester, anyway I got that old jug off and the new kit failed to come with a base gasket.@@Mikeattempts
@@Smalltechguy Ah, I've never used a spark plug tester so I'm not sure.
PEOPLE should know that the piston ring can be put on upside down.learned the hard way.
Yep, hopefully they'd realize when they weren't able to get it to compress enough to fit in the cylinder. Thanks for the comment!
In my opinion a better clean off piston and cylinder make a better job than after market kit . The time is going to see the difference.
I agree, the OEM parts will always be better than aftermarket.
Probably tried cleaning it up before taking it back to the store. Did a good job cleaning it up
Hahaha, I wouldn't be surprised. :) Thanks for watching!
@@Mikeattempts I’m working on a brand new echo that I accidentally ran bad gas through. Cut a couple trees is all it cut up. I was encouraged to blow it off and take it back to the store as a defect. Couldn’t bring myself to do it. I winced and ordered a cylinder and piston kit
Your video was a huge help. Never had an engine fully disassembled. Didn’t know if the piston came out without destroying the clips. Now if I can remember how to put it back together once I get the parts! 👍
@@Dogonatree You did the right thing, we need more honest people like you. :) Let me know how it goes!
Just wanted to follow up, got my parts in. Fixed it up. No left over parts. Can of gas from now on. It’s cheaper than a new saw or parts too
@@Dogonatree Hahaha, no left over parts is a sign of a job well done! ;) Thanks for the update!
Excelente tu video tengo una igual y no sabía ni cómo desarmarla para hacer mantenimiento 👍
I'm glad the video was helpful, thanks for the comment! :)
Hei. Jeg har skiftet stempel og sylinder på min fars Husqvarna 445 xTorq ll videoen din var til stor hjelp. Takk!😊
I'm glad the video was helpful, thanks for the comment! :)
Excellent . Very well made. Is very informative.
Thanks for the comment, I appreciate it!
Thank you for a VERY NICE and well explained.
I appreciate it, thanks for the comment!
Very good video. A big help. Thank you.
I'm glad it was helpful, thank you for watching!
Hi Mike.
Thanks for sharing your experience through this video. Please let me know how the cylinder kit is so far? Do you think is reliable?
I will really appreciate if you can share some information.
Thanks
I was impressed with the quality of the aftermarket cylinder and piston. The OEM parts do seem a little better, but they also cost more. The saw runs and cuts great so I would buy aftermarket parts again, if they were substantially cheaper.
After the failure to install the cylinder over the piston with my first kit (Husky 345) , I bought another one. I put the ring on the piston and was able to insert it into the cylinder. But I will be darned if once the piston is on the rod if I can get the piston to slide in. It hits the taper on the cylinder and just stops, best I can tell. Using a zip tie did nothing for me. Finally the high heat permatex had set up so I quit and cleaned it all up.
I used to rebuild two stroke MC engines (and car engines) starting at age 15. So it's not like I'm a total klutz. Looking at the interior of the cylinder it "looks" identical to the original, and I can slide the original right on down. I am without understanding. Guess I just needed to vent.
Did you try cussing, sometimes that helps? Hahaha! Dang, that's so strange and hasta be super frustrating. It sounds like you're far more experienced with engine rebuilds than me so I don't know what I could suggest that you probably haven't already thought of. That's not gonna stop me though! If you can get the piston in without the rod attached then the only thing I can assume is, when the rod is connected, maybe it's causing the piston to enter at a slight angle. Maybe you could try putting some grease around the ring, hold the cylinder with your thumbs on top and your fingers on the bottom. Then use your middle and ring fingers, from both hands, to put even pressure on the bottom of the piston skirt. Slowly and evenly squeeze while swearing at it for added intimidation. ;)
@@Mikeattempts lol. I think I've been swearing enough already! I was looking at the original cylinder and actually does not look bad. Certainly nothing that catches my fingernail. I believe I will sand out minor discolorations with some 400 grit sandpaper and try to reuse it, as I can fit it over the piston no problem. Thanks for your suggestions, Mike.
@@mandrix6323 So, when you started this project, how long did you think it would take vs reality? I actually enjoy stories of other peoples' struggles with this sort of stuff. It makes me realize I'm not alone, it happens to all of us! :) Let me know how it turns out.
@@MikeattemptsMike I expected to be finished with actual complete reassembly in an hour or so. Of course disassembly and cleanup beforehand was an hour or two.
I read all over UA-cam where the cause of piston scoring/ring stuck in the land is the result of running unmixed gas. I have never ever done that. But last year hurricane Idalia tore my place up as a CAT 3 and took down many trees, and the little saw got a workout. I actually bought a Husky (445?) during that time as well.
I'm thinking I'm going to change the oil/gas mix to 40/45 :1 and see if the saws still run well.
Success at last! went through 2 cylinder kits and then VIOLA! All is good and the saw runs great after some minor carb tuning.
Hey Mike - thanks for the video and detailed instructions. I have a Husqvarna 440 that was run mostly with gasoline without 2 cycle oil and it barely has any compression(and.. doesn't start at all). I'm very inexperienced with anything mechanical and I would like to know if you would recommend replacing the carburetor and/or any other parts aside from the Piston and Cylinder? - thanks in advance!
I'm no pro but I would guess the carb is fine. I would replace the piston and cylinder and see how it runs. If it seems to run poorly and adjusting the carb doesn't help, you could get a rebuild kit that contains all of the carb gaskets, diaphragms, needle, spring, etc. I have another video cleaning a Husky carb, it's not too hard. Let me know how it goes!
1 like... 19:56 to 20:10: very noticable, me too. This type of carb is inconvenient to adjust to archieve the optimized status of the engine. Do you know reasons why Husqvarna have chosen this type of carn while the others are convenient and effective in reality?
I'm no pro, I'm not sure why Husqvarna has chosen this type of carb.
This guy name Ethan Ol has caused people a lot of grief.
Hahaha, yeah, ethanol sucks but I think the problem was that the previous owner might have used bar oil instead of 2-stroke oil in the fuel.
you make this looks easy.Having problem with my 450e Husqvarna low compression. Did leak test and it was good. Any idea
The editing makes it look easier than it actually was. ;) I'm no pro but the only things that could cause low compression, that I know of, would be a stuck piston ring or a scored cylinder. Remove the muffler and you should be able to see if there's any scoring on the piston. You should also be able to tell if the ring is stuck by lining it up to the exhaust port and trying to compress/move it with something plastic or wooden like a chopstick.
@@Mikeattempts Its new piston and cylinder oem parts, after trying few after market parts they all have different issue especially leak problem wasn't lucky to get a good one. So decided stay Ordinal. I am wondering if my compression test throwing me off. I tried to start it anyway but keep backfiring. Thank you for replying, you inspired me to rebuild my chainsaw despite i don't get it running yet. Even though you edit the vid its, well done.
@@barberg5694 Oh, it already has a new piston and cylinder, got it. I've seen bad compression readings from certain testers so, if you have a new OEM piston, piston ring, and cylinder, I don't think compression is your issue. I would just double check to be sure you got all of the fuel lines connected properly to and from the carb and primer bulb. Also, make sure none of the fuel lines are kinked or twisted. If all of that has been confirmed, and it still won't start, you could try turning in both the Low and High speed carb jets all the way in and then turn them each out 1.5 turns and then try starting again. Let me know how it goes.
@@Mikeattempts I will do that thanks for your info and time. I will let u Know
I forgot to mention that i remove the flywheel to do a leak test, wasn't sure how to reset the timing, maybe that's reason for low compression and backfire. Which causes too much fuel to enter the cylinder. Any idea and how to do the timing.
I wonder if they used bar oil instead of 2 stroke oil?
That was my thought too! :)
@@Mikeattempts great videos btw. Criminally under viewed
@@Uncle_Anthoni I really appreciate you saying that. Hopefully I'll get more exposure (and views) as my subscriber count increases. :)
Thanks mate 👍🏼
Thank you for watching! :)
Which oil can I use to lubricate the crankshaft bearings? (zoom oil is not available where I live). I am going to use engine oil but which Viscousity is recommnended?
I'm no pro but at 7:48, I just used SAE 30W oil to lube the needle bearings. I've also used 00 grease on the needle bearing under the clutch so I'm sure either would be perfectly fine. Gear oil would probably be another good option.
nice video/tutorial/thx,perfect instruction for hobbies.
Thanks for watching! :)
I think this engine was run once on neat petrol and only the original first run factory oil kept it alive for a little while.
Because of the tacky coating on the piston and cylinder wall, I kinda think maybe the original owner tried to use bar oil instead of 2-stroke oil in the fuel. :)
@@Mikeattempts oh that’s tragic! 😭
Thanks, very helpful video I just have a question how much can I charge to change just piston n rings on one of these chopsaws? Im new on side jobs and I want to have an idea of an estimate charge like i mentioned before just for piston n rings replacement
I'm not sure, I'm not a pro, this was the first time I ever did a piston and cylinder. I guess I would call a few local small engine repair shops and ask 'em how much it would cost to replace the piston and rings. Then you can charge a bit less and I'm sure the customer would be happy. Once you've done a few jobs then you could figure out a fair hourly rate and then also charge for parts.
Great video sir really appreciate this video keep up the good work 👍 👍 🙏
Thanks, I appreciate the comment! :)
Agree with comments re 2-cycle oil quality, fuel quality, probably too much oil, so... black internals, stuck ring. (Not that complicated, people: use new hi-test gas and synthetic 2-stroke oil at 50:1. These, at +/- 140 to 150 psi, are comparatively "high compression" engines.) Little quibble... way to adjust ignition clearance is to put a piece of thick paper between the magnet and the leg from the module, tighten down the module, then rotate out the piece of thick paper. Other quibble... Like the other guy, I would have changed out the crank seals just because. These things are sort of a modern comparable to what "Volkswagens" used to be. Not a "pro saw." But not the typical junk that comes from the "box stores." Relatively very easy to take apart and fix (no case splitting, etc.) Parts pretty much available and reasonably priced.... Fascinating that yours was so clean on the outside....?
I honestly think it was so clean because it failed on the first tank of fuel. That's the only reason I didn't replace the crank seals. I completely agree that it's best practice and if you already have it torn apart, just replace them. I think maybe the original owner used motor oil or possibly even bar oil instead of 2-stroke. The good news is that the original parts seem to be perfectly fine, they just need cleaning. Thanks for the tip about the ignition clearance and thank you for the comment! :)
Hi, I have a husqvarna 128cd, that recently changed the piston, carb, fuel lines and spark. It won't start. Spark is fine (sparking), fuel lines are ok, and carb is new. What could it be? Compression? Something I noticed is that the cylinder / piston ring was too loose. Could this be the problem? Unfortunately, I don't have the compression gauge for testing.
I'm no pro but, unless you have the fuel lines connected to the wrong ports on the carb, it sounds like you have everything you need except compression. You only replaced the piston, not the cylinder? I guess there's a chance that the piston is the wrong diameter. Were you able to compare the old piston with the new one before installation?
@@Mikeattempts both pistons look the same, I changed the piston and cylinder.
@@anrivera1975 Hmm, I assume you bought the piston and cylinder in a kit so they should match. Did you double-check the fuel line connections to the carb? Did you adjust the high and low jets on the carburetor? Turn them in all the way and then out 1.5 turns.
@Mikeattempts yes I did all that stuff. My guess is a compression issue. Fuel lines are ok, I thought it was that and switched them to try. No luck.
@@anrivera1975 Alright, let me know what you find, I'm curious.
Soaking the piston in type F transmission fluid might free up that piston ring
I kept the original piston and cylinder, but I haven't soaked 'em in anything yet, thanks for the advice!
When I rebuilt my chainsaw and tried to start it and it would idle great but would bog out when pulling the trigger. I tried to adjust it but it didn't work. Any ideas. It did sit for a year with fuel because the first motor blew up.
I'm no pro but I do have a few ideas. 1) A fuel line could be twisted or kinked. That would allow enough fuel to idle but not enough to rev up. 2) The carb could have a partial blockage. It doesn't take much at all to mess up a carb and I have a chainsaw carb cleaning video too, if needed. 3) The carb be out of adjustment. This is less likely because the jets don't move on their own. The base starting point is to turn the high and low speed jets all the way in and then back out 1.5 turns. Once running, adjust as necessary.
this is a great vid holy smokes
Thanks, I appreciate it! :)
Im taking the folding knife, I'm folding the knife, I'm putting the knife in my pocket, I'm going to do a bit of guessing now 🤠
Hahaha, yep, most of what I do is guessing. :)
@@MikeattemptsI guess it works 🤷🏻♂️😅
How good are the parts from Amazon for A 359 are they worth the money or buy something more expensive??
I got my aftermarket kit from eBay and was surprised by the quality. I'm not saying it was as good as OEM but the casting, fit, and finish was nice. I assume the stuff on Amazon is the same as the stuff on eBay. If buying on Amazon, I'd just read the reviews before making a decision. If buying on eBay, I wouldn't purchase from any seller with less than a 99.0% Feedback Rating.
Trying to disassemble an Echo cs352es but the cylinder won’t lift off - any advice? Piston is free and all bolts removed but seal won’t break.
Did you try swearing more, that sometimes helps? ;) So, you got all 4 cylinder bolts removed from the bottom? Is it possible that the piston is seized in the cylinder? If so, you could stick a wooden dowel down the spark plug hole and try to tap the piston down while pulling up on the cylinder. If it's not the piston, you could just try tapping the top of the cylinder forwards and backwards, with a rubber mallet, in hopes of breaking the seal. I'm just throwing out ideas, I'm not a pro. Let me know how it goes!
@@Mikeattempts piston moves up and down so not seized. Tried hitting it with a rubber mallet - there is still compression in the cylinder if you turn the flywheel and put your thumb over the openings so seems like the seal is not breaking. As well as the bolts (which I have completely removed) there seem to be four little plugs coming up through - which might be from the gasket maybe. Don’t want to slip anything under the cylinder to break the seal I case I scratch the base as I only have a replacement piston not the cylinder.
@@sophielaurie6510 Hmm, that's odd. You could try turning the saw upside down and use a piece of wood pressed against the bottom/side of the cylinder and tap on the wood with the mallet. Just be careful not to break any fins. I'm curious why it's stuck so, if you're able to get it off, let me know what was holding it.
@@Mikeattempts - thanks, will give it another go. Your video is excellent and gave me confidence to get this far so very frustrating!
@@sophielaurie6510 You'll get it! Have you tried securing the body of the saw while twisting the cylinder? I just wonder if there's something else holding it? I would think a stuck seal wouldn't be enough to withstand all of the things you've tried so far.
Low compression you say? I think the machining Horizontal ring marks On the piston have worn off, so the oil doesn’t stick to the piston as well as when new, so the seal isn’t as good.
From what I can tell, the saw looks like it might have died on the first tank of fuel because bar oil was used for the mix. The piston ring was completely compressed and stuck in the groove. With a good soak, I think the original piston and cylinder might be good as new. Thanks for watching!
Great work!!
Thanks! :)
Great video
Thanks!
Thank you Mike and yes Sir, you've done that before!
Hahaha, nope, I swear! :) This was my first time replacing a chainsaw piston and/or cylinder. Thanks for watching!
When I said "You've done it before" it wasn't
about switching the pistons but chainsaws in general and yes, I can get the saw taken apart in not time but the fun starts when fiddling all back together correctly.
Take care and try to stay out of trouble!
10 -4!
Where did you find an affordable top end for the Husqvarna chainsaw? I need to rebuild my 465.
I got my cylinder and piston kit from eBay. There are links to all of the parts I used in the video description.
@@Mikeattempts thank you!
The piston appears to be directional and need to face a certain way. There is an arrow on top of it. Any guidance on which way it points?
The arrow points towards the exhaust (front). That part is at 12:33 in the video.
@ ok I scrolled through but didn’t see it. But figured as much. Thanks. Rebuilding this week. Got a lot of screws on the workbench. Wish me luck.
@@RobSmith09 Cool, let me know how it goes!
@ you want to come to Texas and do it for me? Lol
@@RobSmith09 Hahaha! If I can do it, you can do it. :)
Like to see you do a review on chain locker
You mean the case that hold chainsaw chains? I'm no pro, just a regular guy who needs a chainsaw every now and then. I don't currently have a need for a case that hold 20 chains. I usually only have 2 chains per saw, one is on the saw and the other is either still in the unopened package or hanging on a nail. :)
How is the saw running after the rebuild kit?
So far, so good! I can't tell a performance difference but I'm no pro.
Very good video Mike any chance you might do one on the 450 keep up the good work.
Thanks, I appreciate it! I do have a 450 but hopefully it doesn't need a new piston and cylinder anytime soon. :) The good news is that the procedure would be very similar to this one.
Awesome thanks 🙏 I just subscribed 👍👍
Thanks, I appreciate it! :)