Solid roller cams and street use! LT1 SBC Gen1 / Gen2 Watch this video before you decide to go solid
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- Опубліковано 23 лип 2024
- This Lt1 is my 3rd motor with a solid roller cam and has lived its life 95% on the street. So… before you decide to go solid roller on the streets. You want to watch this video to make sure you are ready for the maintenance.
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always nice to have another TPV video in my feed. Cheers.
Love this video.Great information I needed to know.
Really Good Tech Thanks Never Had Solid lifter Cam Lot Of Work To Do Right ... I had A small circle hydraulic CAM in A big block 460...Got good RPM Out Of That
I run an erson cam in my sbc.. solid flat tapit...568 lift. .110+4.. runs 7:11 1/8.mile....3,400 lb,1978 GrandLeMans..half baked big tire car..BLACK SHEEP......
I thought the pushrod was going to pop out at full lift. Lol. Spot on my man.
The way that cam gear meshes with the distributor I would bet it would be fine if you ran it. More than one tooth engages at a time and the gears tooth isn't totally wore out.
Good content man!!
I've been using stepped feeler gauges for some time, and it just makes life easier. Tip is ground 0.002" smaller tham blade - behaves like go/no-go check.
Solid is the only way to go. Solid roller is the best. Im talking sbc and bbc
Great video. Thanks for the information. I am in the process of resurrecting a 67 327. I am on the fence regarding the camshaft type. It was rebuilt back in the 80’s. It has .040 over flat top bottom end with 291 - 2.02 fulie heads. The cam that was installed back then was an Isky hydraulic flat tapped, 267/.460.. I want to be able to spin it up a little higher. I even debated going with a 283 crankshaft. It’s going into a 63 c10 with a 4L60. I know it’s going to need some gears and a stall converter. Any thoughts or suggestions? Thanks
Great video. Do you just back off for winter storage? Do you check lash throughout the summer or does it stay adjusted?
I do know that if its a Austempered/cast hydro roller core, you can use a cast dist gear like a flat tappet or melonized
A billet cam, can use a melonized gear or brass gear but the one you have is the wy to go. Herberts looks like they do it for a SBC option. cast cam geat on their hydro rollers for 30 extra just depend on what billet. thers like 3 or 4 billet types. emailed lunati on that the other day and thats what they told me
i have an OE FT 302 windsor in my 79 zephyr that runs great.. debating what my H/C/I option will be when i finally do it hydro roller or flat tappet. ford is a lil different because you can have .550 lift hydraulic flat tappets because of the bigger .875 lifter vs a GM .842
. just depends on the pistons and timing events
Good video brother
I run t and d shaft mounts on my stock ported lt1 heads, only because I bought the heads that flow 284 at
.650 lift, shaft mounts, and valve covers for 1800 bucks. I've been following you for a while on lt1's. I hand ported a 1 inch taller Victor jr. sbc intake that i converted just like you did. How did you keep all the center screw in studs that hold the intake down from turning and getting loose because they don't bottom out like the front and back ones? Thanks.
I run a solid roller on the street. Doing regular maintenance on my engine and found more wear on the cam gear then I was expecting to see. Now I'm in the market for a new distributor gear. Gen 1 retrofit cam and related items from unknown manufacturer and unknown specs. Using HEI distributor with mellonized gear. Buildup of material in the distributor gear area. More then I'm comfortable with seeing in a short time. My car is a 86 Olds 442 with original 200-4R trans 3:73 limited slip 8.5 10 bolt .Holley 750 dp. Brodix Intake manifold dual plane. .HEI distributor . mechanical fuel pump . unknown large intake port aluminum heads with roller rockers. Unknown coil spring specs unknown cam specs. Small gournal 327 block and small gournal 283 crankshaft all forged internals internally balanced rotating assembly 11.5 to 1 compression ratio. I bought the engine already assembled don't want to disassemble the engine that I recently swapped into the car the engine runs well and the car seems happy with the recent engine swap just sharing with you and your community about my experiences with running a solid roller on the street. I've been a long time subscriber to your channel and just wanted to share with you thanks
Hello i introduced myself about a week ago and i'd like to pick at your brain a little if you don't mind concerning solid roller maintenance for the street and advantage of BB cam journals in my Little M. At approx what miles would you recommend re setting valve lash on my solid roller with T&D pedestal rockers and also i'm curious if the BB journal cam offers any advantages for softer valve closure on the seat?
You can run a mechanical roller on the street all day long just put a stud girdle on it to keep things from moving. Checked the valves every three months and usually had maybe one or two that were out.
Do those polylocks negate the need to re-adjust the clearance? I've always been told that is the biggest drawback to running solid lifters, but perhaps that was talking about flat tappet lifters vs roller lifters. Would love to run solid lifters on my Corvair engine, but the prospect of that extra maintenance pushes me away, as I'm not as agile as I used to be and bending over an engine bay isn't as easy.
Pull the plugs , easier to turn . Great Video .
Keep your spring pressures in check with those skinny SBC cores...they do bend.
Billet Street solid roller cam with Isky bushed lifters. Call it a day and have fun.
Good video
Use a rev kit on the solid rollers. Keeps those rollers from Banging into the lobes. Jones Cams can machine that cam for new gear. Jones Cams also grinds solid roller cams to survive street use.
good stuff
We run a a big custom billet Howard's hydraulic roller in our turbo 509 BBC spin it to 6500 to 6800 religiously. But we don't run a regular hydraulic lifter either.
this guy makes me wana go afjust my stock rockers on my stock flat tappet 350ci
I know this been 2 years since this video but..... how do you like those comp cam endure-x lifters ? Been told to run only bushed style lifters for better reliability...
Im buildin a sbc 415 stroker for my 72 Chevelle , always been runing howards hyd roller lifters on comp cam hyd roller cam and want to go solid roller cam and lifters ( street/strip oriented car ) doing max 1500 miles a year + drag strip ! Whats your experience to date on those comp cam , any fails or heard some who failed on them builds ? Thanks
Wich valve cover you use,I hear stock valve cover cant run on full roller rocker any advice will help thanx
Just a note on the gear. All dist. gears on MSD distributors are the melonized variety. I use these with no worries about compatibility with Comp Cams extreme line of cams. I run Mellings 10 percent pumps in my motors.
Small base roller here , using carbon fiber distributor gear on my msd.
I subbed. I would like to know about what or how much horsepower your making! I got a couple LS motors but haven't jumped on the band wagon yet I may use one on a s10 build I like the carb set up and didn't know you can run a distributor
ua-cam.com/video/8mlcKU0betA/v-deo.html
Use a street roller profile tight lash cam with isky bushed lifters and comp cams ultra pro magnum rockers and all the best parts. Should go 50k miles easy says Isky Cams. Plus i like to spin to 7200rpm in my fuel injected 438windsor on e85
I have crower severe duty cutaway solid lifters in a lt1 block that are standard height not 0.300 taller and they have thousands of miles no issue. all about the base circle and the height of the link bar (yes its close but its 0.050 close to the boss) no issues.
Can you run a gen1 sbc retrofit roller cam in a gen 2 lt1 ?
When adjusting valves try doing the way you're doing but go by 18436572, intake then 18436572 exhaust that way 2 revolutions and you're done.
My number 3 and 5 cylinder in my sbc 383 seem to require longer pushrods than all the other cylinders. Literally a full additional turn on the rocker cups to get them within the .019 spec. I have 7.900 in pushrods for all the other cylinders but those two require like an 8.10 to keep it under the two turns for these shaft rockers. Any idea why this is? It's a solid roller cam.
It's not uncommon to find a different length in push rods when doing a solid roller build for proper valve train geometry. it can be a issues with head casting or valve seats not cut right or if it a factory block core shift.
if its only one head . that has the issue maybe check the line bore of the rocker shafts. along with valve tip length and installed valve spring installed height.
Whats your redline?
I run a Johnson short travel HYD roller........... spins 6800-7000 still pulling
That exactly what i would do. just too many variables with solid rollers and "street grinds"
I use Morel Hi rpm HR lifters in my BBC with 4.25 stroke and she goes to 8000 rpm its all in the build👍🇭🇲
Johnson is where its at
Speed Freak what springs you running?
@@speedfreak1161 stroker BBC spinning 8000rpm, thats impressive.
No Hydraulic will give you the throttle response and upper end power a street solid roller will.
You seem to know your way around an LT-1. What has to be done to run SBC gen 1 hydraulic roller cam in an LT-1?
A LT1 cam is just OE roller block cam or setup with a retaining plate and no button. I can't remember if the pin needs to be longer or shorter for the timing set to work. I would not try to make a button cam work in a Gen 2 block but I have been told it has been done.
How often would you have to adjust the valve clearances compared to hydraulic lifters?
One time
@@TPVPRO sorry, im a novice at engine internals.
So whats the added maintenance that comes with solid lifter?
@@gabrielibarra5551 A lot of variables go into solid cams. spring pressure, lift, quality of components used, all play a factor. If you DD it do not go solid.
How often do you check the rockers?
With good stuff, every 1000 miles
Dont use needle bearings lifters on street. Only isky bushed
Ah yes...setting valve lash...on a solid roller cam.
Free da guys.
He says he’s gonna show us the coil bind, then proceeds on showing us how to adjust valve lash. The fuck?
Ford Racing steel dizzy gear is the best. Poly gears are crap.
Put a solid lift in my old 307 !ua-cam.com/video/86Vsoo88ps8/v-deo.html
I don't think you gave any information about how often you have to do the valves!!! Everyone knows how to set them!!!
Erson doesn't even make a good paper weight, they're JUNK.
Shouldn’t need to adjust your valve clearance more often than when you carry out an oil service on solid lifters, roller or flat tappet, the rockers must be adjusted and LOCKED, polly locks etc….the locknuts supplied for use with hydraulic cams should not be used, a good video but the practice of loosening your rocker clearance off to allow your valve springs to have a rest is frankly ridiculous, you should remove them and post them to Florida for a proper holiday 😂
Florida here … we don’t want them . We all use stud girdles here and if your valve clearance increases then you have a problem. No I hear California is place to be send them there .✌️
@@mikemaguire5507 😂👍I’m in Europe and had hoped for Florida but California sounds ok !
Solid rollers are absolutely fine on the street, check the lash about once a month, the biggest thing to get them to live on the street is a rev kit, that makes all the difference in the world, I have an old Camonics solid roller cam that has been running in the same 383 SBC for 30 years, yes 30 years, freshened up the motor about 15 years ago just rings and bearings, light valve job, and yes the same solid roller cam & lifters and Crower stainless steel rockers, still spins 7200 rpm at every shift,
Hey what's this rev kit you mention? I've seen another person or 2 say the same. Or do you just mean limit your rpm? Like rev limiter?
@@umakemerandy3669 No a "rev kit" is an aluminum bar with holes in it and low tension springs and cups with a hole in them that sit on top of the lifter
The bar goes under the lip of the cylinder head and the springs/cups underneath the pushrods run through the center of them, Google small block Chevy rev kit and you"ll see what it looks like
What it does is at high rpm solid roller cams have such an aggressive profile that they can create a condition called loft where at maximum lift the lifter wheel can momentarily loose contact with the cam, then skids back down the other side causing brinelling which damages the surface of the cam lobe, the extra spring pressure from the Rev Kit prevents this, there are lots of opinions, and then there are facts, but when running a solid roller, especially on the street, this makes them last, I have one that has been running literally on the street for 37 years, the motor has been rebuilt once 15 years ago, but it still runs the same solid roller cam I replaced the rev kit springs when I rebuilt it, so I'd say there's your proof
@@garyallen8869 ah interesting! Thanks. I have a solid roller 383 too that I bought a year ago in a camaro, but one lifter or cam lobe has quit. Engine is around 7-8 years old and unfortunately the 2nd owner for the 4 years prior to me likely never lashed it. One valve was like 60 thou out when I got it and checked it, others less. hoped it would be ok but was not. Quickly back to large lash on the one and was not just the adjustment.
@@umakemerandy3669 sounds like the threads on the stud are screwed up allowing the Polly lock to back off, hopefully it has poly locks and not crush nuts, people often make that mistake crush nuts can/will often back off
If not, then the lifter is eating the cam lobe
@@garyallen8869 no it has poly locks but I can tell there is damage as the messed up lifter or lobe lock has many more threads showing than the rest 👎as I had adjusted it twice now reducing the slack made from damage. Only noticed the difference in threads showing this lsst time