How to Start LS on a Stand | Complete Guide!
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- Опубліковано 25 сер 2024
- This is a Gen IV LY6 6.0L Vortec 6000 from a 2009 Chevrolet Silverado 2500.
Thanks/Links to the following:
AGearHead4Life: • LSx Swap Harness How T...
www.LT1swap.com
AWD V8: • 6.0 LS engine, first s...
Ly6 Wiring Harness Schematic: cjnn.xtremefabr...
PCMofNC VATS Removal: PCM vats removal: www.pcmofnc.com...
Oil Pressure gauge: www.amazon.com...
Autometer 2268 adapter: www.amazon.com...
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"" I said I was gonna start it once or twice, it was awesome. I then started it about 30 times in a couple of weeks" LOL Yep that must've felt good.
I’m putting that same motor into my wife’s 68 AMX. I showed her the end of this video and she was grinning ! Thank you for the video
Ingenious way of delivering fuel without buying a fuel pump. Good video.
Thanks
This is one of the most detailed videos I have seen. Good job man.
Found your channel in the midst of deciding which engine to swap into one of my spare cars, great breakdown and explanation. Great work man, thank you for taking the time to make this.
For anyone watching this video and trying to do the same. I did exactly what he did in the video and my starter would only spin not engage. I found a purple wire in connector x2 labeled starter solenoid crank voltage put 12v to that too and it will start
Good info! Many thanks. For those with a Gen IV E38 ECM (mine came from a 2010 Camaro SS), need to also connect an unswitched (hot always) 12v source to pin 20 (red/white wire) of the x1 ECM connector to power the ECM and give it memory. Also, disconnect pin 59 (yellow wire). With that wire connected, mine wouldn't stop running even after taking power away from the pink and pink/black wire, pins 19 and 47.
The pink wire was what I needed to know to get mine going thank you!!!!!
That's great! Congrats
Great video!, explained a lot questions I had, really awesome to hear you're keeping alive an OBS suburban!
the most simplified video yet. Great video.
Very well done! Only Gen IV startup I’ve found! Thank you.
Quality video and explanation. For us novices this is a great one stop way to do this.
Great video, was wondering how to set fuel up to test fire before doing the swap in my 88 Jimmy
Thanks for the video plan to start my LS soon on the Stand!
You the goat for this!!🐐🐐🐐🐐🐐🐐
Baaa
You sound like a southern preacher. That’s why you know Ls swaps are popular
Nice work, lots of small details that helped. Great videos.
That thing sounds mean. Now I want to put one in my 57 Chevy.
Great video and thanks for the info. I'm building a Gen 4 with vvt also. Could you please post a video of the EFI truck manifold vac connections and a video of the starter wires on the engine?
Thanks,
Scott
I wish I could like this video more than once
Hell yeah man keep us updated. When I get started, I'll likely document my progress
Ahh now I know what I was doing wrong, I had bud instead of coors
Can damage the head with no exhaust by letting out to much air mostly and if anything happens to getting in great video thanks for taken the time
Thank you
Geez Louise.... Thanks for Sharing... Brother
Great video man 👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾
What motor mounts and headers did you use for the swap? Looks and sounds great
this is awesome. thanks. great video
Thanks bro. I really want to make a test station
I would advise against leaving the water pump and cooling system off for run up. Without water in the system and circulating, you'd be amazed at how fast the heads heat up. It can quickly lead to damaged head gaskets, and soon after the heads and block. Yes, the engine will run without it. But temps can skyrocket in a hurry. You can have dangerous temps in well under a minute. Schools often will fire up the classroom engines that the students rebuilt without installing the cooling system. Those engines generally don't go back into daily driver status after. Leaving the cooling system off for run stand service should be reserved for demo and learning purposes. Otherwise I like most of the rest of the video. Especially your compressed air fuel system.
He no's his job buddy don't worry 🤟
Got it, great video.
How long has the lead on the back of the heads been a thing?! I had no idea.
So did you have to do any other software changes than disable theft???
lots of little tips as well ...THANKS!
You're welcome! Hope it helps.
Can you put it in the truck and drive it with that hook up
GOD MUSTA BEEN WATCHIN OVER ME WHEN I WAS YOUNG. I rememebr changing carb in my truck and something was wrong, and it puked out gas all over the top of the engine. i kept working on it anyways. cant actually remeber if i succeeded just remeber all that gas everywhere and no sparks to ignite it, whew.
Can you help me get my foot pedal hooked up?
Great video.. did you have any issues talking to the transmission? My son needs a motor in his 93 yukon and we wanted to put in an LS. He has a new 4l60e and a stand alone TCM. Just didn’t know if it was cost effective
What headers are you running on there.? Was wondering do they fit 88 to 98. I have a 98 C1500 Chevy pickup that I'm LS swapping and I want long tubes like yours any info will help thank you so much
You are one bad ass dude did you use the fuel tank from the junkyard
Impressive
Do you happen to know where I can get the wire diagram for the x109 plug and the fuse plug, I have a couple of wires left over and don't know what to do with them
How did you work the drive by wire throttle?
Do you have to do anything to the Computer
You have to get the VATS removed by a tuner. I mention the tuner service I used at some point in the video.
Great Video !!
Does using that wire to start the engine eliminate the need for a transponder key? Would VATS be a problem without a key, I Have 2009 Engine and matching ECU and Transmition CU .
No, as far as I know you have to have the complete ignition installed key and all inorder to start the system with VATS still on the ECU. I had the VATS removed from my ECU prior to making this video. I hope that answers your question.
Did you run it without o2 sensors?
How the heck did you wire the pedal
I have a 6.2 engine. So I tried and it didn’t work out. I am told that I need an immobilizer. Please tell me if you need an immobilizer?????
Don't know anything about the 6.2l. This was a 6.0l. I did have to get the VATS removed from the computer. That is part of the antithetical system that immobilizes the truck if you don't have the right keys.
Can you send me the address where you sent the computer flash
What about an 03 Express van fuse block equivalent of the P5 in your fuse block. Im stumped .
Hmm this motor came out of an 09 I believe. The 03 would be LQ4 motor I believe
@@joat-man9778 yesir 03 van harness and fuse block but no idea for the right accessory power
Not bad vid …. Should have used a normal fuel pump and let the computer turn it on and regulate pressure
Was that harness/fuse block from a van or from a truck?
Truck. 2009 Silverado 2500
Is your Surban a 4x4? I'll be watching for your progress.
No, unfortunately it is not. Over the years I have gotten it stuck time and time again. Just too heavy in the back. Since I put the mud tires and a little 2.5" rough country lift on it, it hasn't been stuck since.
I do also own a 2005 3/4 ton 4x4 Suburban with the 8.1l. It gets stuck quicker than than the 2wd does though. Narrow stock tires at 60+lbs...
no water pump OR WATER EITHER?
Don't let it run more than 30 seconds and you'll have no problems. I also waited several hours between starts for everything to cool off.
Can you get that fitting at Lowe's or home Depot?
Yes, all of the fittings for the fuel delivery system came from home depot!
How is your swap going? Got it complete yet?
@@joat-man9778 not my Gen 4. Waiting for the ECM to come back. Just been prepping the car. Just decided to revisit this video. These things keep me inspired. And you did a great job.
@@DONTCALLMETHAT thanks! Hopefully I can get back to this project soona
You just leave it 3rd gear all the time? Ok I will do the same now
Good video...I'm having a problem. I started this motor before pulling it out the truck. I had the vats removed on ecm. I did everything with the pins on lt1 swap and also the pedal. And powered up p5 and engine won't start and pedal don't work...can you help me...what am I doing wrong
I would be suspicious of the VATS being properly removed. Other than that it's hard to say. Sorry I couldn't be more help.
@@joat-man9778 ok I sent the ecm to pcm north Carolina...but I'm going to go through everything once more, if not I'll send it back. Thank you
Good luck!
Since when is engine stuff this sexy? 😍
It' always has been
Lol them tabs are from a junk yard. And if removed they know your trying to pull a fast one on em for a warranty claim
Why is yours p5
I'm asking the same
U suck a valve with no headers or manifolds. .....they cool off to quickly
Yep it runs, but you already knew that because it came out of a wrecked truck. I like that you explained how much work (and expense) you need to go to see what you already knew. It goes without saying but you also risked damage and possible injury, because that engine moved way too much for my liking when you fired it up. What I got out of this is my time would be much better spent installing that beast in my truck. I could test run it there just as well, safely. The work I did, along with the time and money would then be applied towards it's permanent installation. An engine running on a wobbly engine stand doesn't do me much good, I hope others can learn from this. Cute, but useless.
I chose to start it on the stand instead of attempting to install it directly into my truck because the motor came with a short warranty, I had plans to change the cam, and the truck it was going into was running fine and being driven. I wanted to verify it ran before tearing into it and letting the warranty expire. As for expense, I purchased an engine stand as well as some pipe and fittings from home depot... not exactly breaking the bank. Having the VATS removed was necessary for my swap, not just for running it on the stand. Starting this motor on the stand took me a few hours to complete but allowed me to have the confidence that my project was starting with a solid motor, giving me the time I needed to figure out the rest of my swap complications before taking the motor out of a perfectly running vehicle. I started that motor a bunch of times on the stand, don't be scared of that little wobble...
@@joat-man9778 Hey thanks for your reply. To each his own. What you have ahead of you is a whole lot of work. I've done a few engine swaps in my time they are a lot of work, but something I don't mind doing and I have a knack for. The warranty is useless. What I mean is you are buying a used engine. Either tear it down and rebuild it or use it as is and hope for the best. Caming it and such is a typical rookie mistake. you can do that sort of thing after the install. As you rightly pointed out you are taking an engine out of a working vehicle. What's changed? Nothing! Grow a pair, put your engine in. Stop playing with your new little toy before it falls over and breaks your foot. When that happens it will never get installed and, OH MY!!!, your worthless warranty will still be worthless.
Man this great and very helpful for the average guy who never done this. Thanks for sharing