I’m curious what my car makes. I’m running the same setup but I have a 3” high flow cat and cat back exhaust, Mishimoto radiator, 440cc green giants, and Eurodyne Maestro with PowerTap 440cc file. Makes around 22psi of boost and holds it to above 6000rpm if wanted. I have around 250k miles on it. I also have it lowered with Solo Werks adjustable coilovers and I have adjustable upper control arms from Jegs.
We have been messing with tension on the wastegate actuator nut and that seemed to make a huge difference in terms of holding boost. A couple weekends ago we did a test day and probably had the wastegate actuator too tight so it bent the wastage arm inside the turbo and was stuck in the open position with no boost. It steadily go worse throughout the day until we had 0 boost and the car could barely go 50mph. This go around we loosened the actuator pushrod nut (likely too much) and it doesn’t hold as much boost as before. Spikes to 23 on the gauge for a split second and then drops off into the 14-15psi range. It is just such a hassle to take it all apart so we are just going to leave it before the last event of the season. We are definitely leaving power on the table but it won’t be any worse than it has been throughout the season.
@@nocoastmotorsports9903 I also tightened the rod on the wastegate just because to me it seemed a little loose so I just tightened it enough to not have slack. I haven’t driven the car in years though because we got t boned in the front. I have it all repaired now minus properly attaching the front bumper. I want to set it up more for the track and will definitely focus on cooling and handling more than engine power. I think an awd drift setup that can handle 1000whp would be awesome! If not, I may just go with rwd. I’m going to start with the center diff change to 4:1 and then I’d like a posi rear diff. Or swap to something else that can handle the power better.
Engine is tired (compressions test showed this) and the turbo is old and worn out also. Decent amount of play in the turbine too. We run the car wide open throttle pretty much all sessions and we have multiple drivers back to back. Basically we just flog the thing to death out there, it is really a miracle it has lasted this long with how many track miles we have put on the car. The heatsoak problems are big on the K03. You can feel a difference after one lap. We are hoping our new inter cooler modifications can minimize intake temps and heat soak but there is only so much you can do.
@@nocoastmotorsports9903 my guess is that you have low compression because of the valves which is supposedly the engines most common weak point. Exhaust valve are normally the first to go. Was it going lean?
I’m curious what my car makes. I’m running the same setup but I have a 3” high flow cat and cat back exhaust, Mishimoto radiator, 440cc green giants, and Eurodyne Maestro with PowerTap 440cc file. Makes around 22psi of boost and holds it to above 6000rpm if wanted. I have around 250k miles on it. I also have it lowered with Solo Werks adjustable coilovers and I have adjustable upper control arms from Jegs.
We have been messing with tension on the wastegate actuator nut and that seemed to make a huge difference in terms of holding boost. A couple weekends ago we did a test day and probably had the wastegate actuator too tight so it bent the wastage arm inside the turbo and was stuck in the open position with no boost. It steadily go worse throughout the day until we had 0 boost and the car could barely go 50mph. This go around we loosened the actuator pushrod nut (likely too much) and it doesn’t hold as much boost as before. Spikes to 23 on the gauge for a split second and then drops off into the 14-15psi range. It is just such a hassle to take it all apart so we are just going to leave it before the last event of the season. We are definitely leaving power on the table but it won’t be any worse than it has been throughout the season.
@@nocoastmotorsports9903 I also tightened the rod on the wastegate just because to me it seemed a little loose so I just tightened it enough to not have slack. I haven’t driven the car in years though because we got t boned in the front. I have it all repaired now minus properly attaching the front bumper. I want to set it up more for the track and will definitely focus on cooling and handling more than engine power. I think an awd drift setup that can handle 1000whp would be awesome! If not, I may just go with rwd. I’m going to start with the center diff change to 4:1 and then I’d like a posi rear diff. Or swap to something else that can handle the power better.
What caused the 10hp power loss ? i think its the heatsoak cause this engines do run very hot
Engine is tired (compressions test showed this) and the turbo is old and worn out also. Decent amount of play in the turbine too. We run the car wide open throttle pretty much all sessions and we have multiple drivers back to back. Basically we just flog the thing to death out there, it is really a miracle it has lasted this long with how many track miles we have put on the car. The heatsoak problems are big on the K03. You can feel a difference after one lap. We are hoping our new inter cooler modifications can minimize intake temps and heat soak but there is only so much you can do.
@@nocoastmotorsports9903 so Maybe a new k03 turbo and a new tune should help Regain all the horsepower lost?
@@nocoastmotorsports9903 my guess is that you have low compression because of the valves which is supposedly the engines most common weak point. Exhaust valve are normally the first to go. Was it going lean?
Is that valve tick?
Great question, not sure in that…
@@nocoastmotorsports9903 mine does that when I’m a little low on oil.