❗❗ *IF YOU WANT A SYSTEM LIKE THIS:* ❗❗ *Here is the core kit:* shop.explorist.life/shop/all-products/30a-oem-rv-retrofit-2000w-inverter-200-1000ah-battery-bank-dc-dc-charger-wiring-diagram-kit/ *Also available with a 3kVA Inverter:* shop.explorist.life/shop/all-products/30a-oem-rv-upgrade-400-1200ah-battery-bank-multiplus-3k-12-orion-12-12-30-wiring-diagram-kit/ *And then you can add whatever solar you like/need from these options (12V battery bank options):* shop.explorist.life/product-category/all-products/camper-wiring-kits/solar-charging-wiring-kits/ Or... *Here is the EXACT setup we showed in this video:* shop.explorist.life/shop/all-products/travel-trailer-electrical-upgrade-270ah-battery-multiplus-2k-12v-800w-solar-orion-12-12-30/ *GET $50 OFF PER BATTLE BORN BATTERY WITH CODE explorist AT CHECKOUT:* battlebornbatteries.com/shop/brands/battle-born-batteries/?afmc=explorist_bb67
I purchased all this before I found your site Sad but that is reality The reason I want to know about C rates is as I am a DYI person and want you to know build my own batteries Of course cost is a huge factor in this choice
This video is great! I'm almost done retrofitting my daughters 30 amp OEM system and this helped fill in some final pieces. Also, your wiring kits are fantastic. I have sourced most of my upgrade through you with excellent shipping times and accuracy. Great job!
Quick question. I purchased the wireing diagram for this project and have found it very helpful. The diagram shows 4x100ah batteries. I am using 2 and not placing in a Multi plus as of yet. The fuse size on the Lynx Dist for the wire running from the Lynx to the existing battery terminals is 150 amp. Since I am using 2 100ah lithium batteries do I still use the same fuse size?
If you purchased those wires/fuses/components from shop.explorist.life, shoot us a support ticket at shop.explorist.life/support and we can check into what you've already purchased and ensure it's correct for you.
Another awesome detailed video guys! What a great install this is I'm sure the owners are very happy. Do you happen to have a link to the blind bolt kit you used to attached the ground from the lynx dist to the frame?
I used Anderson connectors on my truck for the DC-DC charger I have, its great. So great, that I cut the power cord to my Viair compressor and put an Anderson connector in the middle of that. Now I can power it from the rear bumper or connect the original clamps to battery up front.
I could watch this stuff all day. Is it uncommon that I am contemplating a career change, so I can do cool stuff like this all the time? I've done a lithium battery and the 712 with inverter and new converter in my little TT so far, solely from the confidence and complete explanations of each step that you provide. Thank you Nate and Steph!
Great video! Can't wait to follow your guide for my Grand Design Imagine. Did you reinforce the wall to install all the Victron components? Would the Victron Multiplus 3000 be enough to power the AC and would it have any heat issues in the storage bay? Thank you!
Hey thank you for putting this video together! It is the most comprehensive video I've seen on going from zero to fully decked out. I have to figure out how I'm going to run power to the Multpass 2 and back to the fuse panel, but one problem at a time!
Nate & Steph, It was so nice to see the beautiful job you did on Kurt & Laurie's 22MLE! OMG, I say, because my wife & I, also retired (and my college buddy Murf & Nancy) have 22MLE's as well! 😎 Mine 2023 came with a charge controller & Solar on roof, but we want "MORE POWER" lol. Maybe 3 or 4 panels? All I have done so far is upgraded to a 12v 230Ah LiTime battery. 1. I've watched your 12v vs 24v discussion and wondered if building the same system you did for Kurt & Laurie... but with a 24V Battery & System would have good advantages? 2. Also I love that Victron Power Assist feature, but could I use that with my lil 1600w (2000w surge) inverter generator to create enough power to run Air Conditioning? 3. Where are you & your shop located? Cheers, Eric
Thanks! 1: There is no reason to do this system as 24V. 2: Probably. Especially if you've got a soft-start on the AC. If you want a guarentee that the AC will work; you'll want the next size up on the Multiplus (3k) w/ a little bigger battery bank (400Ah minimum). 3: Northwest Colorado. We ship worldwide, though, and ship for free on orders over $200 within the contiguous USA.
@EXPLORISTlife Thank you for your reply. If I understand correctly, the combo of my battery bank (with a 2nd 230Ah battery) and my 1600W Generator (and magic of the Victron "Power Assist") WILL power my Soft Start AC. But best if the Inverter-Charger were 3000 vice 2000. With 3000W capability, am I at risk of the stock Battery wires overheating? I noticed your battery relocation kit used much heavier wire to the stock batery box location. Cheers, Eric
Are you sure 6 AWG is the appropriate size for the DC-DC Charger? The Victron install instructions say to use 16mm2 (~6 AWG) for circuit length up to 10m; however, this seems to be the length of the positive conductor only in the illustration. With a truck and trailer that long, the entire circuit length (positive and negative conductors from the starter battery all the way to the DC Charger) probably far exceeds that 10 meter length. That caused significant voltage drop for me and I didn't get full output from the DC Charger until I upsized to 2 AWG wire and shortened the circuit length. I have a discussion on the Victron Community Forum about this.
Indeed I am sure 6ga is the proper size. In fact, I made a video about a year ago about how wire size and voltage drop affects chargers: ua-cam.com/video/0xOvINH4tKs/v-deo.html
@EXPLORISTlife Thanks for the link. Because the smart alternator in my 2017 Tacoma is goofy (controlled completely by the ECM and never outputs more than about 13.5v), the 6% voltage drop I was experiencing through the 6 AWG wire over a total circuit length of 60 feet was enough to complicate the Engine Shutdown Detection settings. By the time I got the Shutdown Voltage set low enough to account for the 6% voltage drop (and the fact that the Tacoma ECM regularly turns the alternator voltage output down to
Love your videos. Been waiting for this one. How come you grounded the solar charge controller to the inverter/charger? as oppose to doubling up on the ground stud on the lynx distributor? Can you do this with any inverter? I have used your videos to upgrade my rv's lead acid batteries with 2 100 amp hour battleborn batteries, the lynx distributor, and I am currently adding the victron MPPT Charger controller. I did find your videos after i upgrade my oem WFCO converter/charger for one that has a lithium battery switch and I am keeping my existing Xantrax 2000 Inverter. I am not sure if i can/should ground the solar charge controller to my Xantrax 2000 Inverter or what the alternative would be. Thanks for all these videos! i just let them play all day while I am at work!
I have a question. Grand Designs usually makes an inverter prep which is seen in the storage bay. Its just a loop in the power line from the Shore power to the panel. If a person took advantage of this in the storage bay you wouldn't need to take a line back to the panel would you? You would essentially be tapping into the same line at a different place. Did this travel trailer not have an inverter prep loop on it? Second question. I have a 17 foot trailer with 30A shore power but I want a solar setup that will run my AC so I plan on around 500 watts on the roof and a 3k charger inverter. I want to use Victron but the Victron MultiPlus-II 2X Pure Sine Wave Inverter Charger for 120 amp Battery, 120V, 3000VA 12-Volt says it needs a 50A shore power. As long as I dont try and hook it up to 50A it shouldnt be a problem would it?
When you wired the battery to the old battery bank, the wire size you used was 2AWG but that existing battery bank look like it used 6 or 8AWG. Any concerns about going to such a small wire size at the OEM wiring?
All of those small wires would have had proper fusing from the factory, which was left in place to accommodate this decrease in wire size. Similar to how there are smaller wires coming from larger wire at the Lynx Distributor.
@Explorist Life Team - Awesome video for us TT DIYers! Thank you for creating these videos and offering the equipment and kits via your store. As many others have previusly said, your work and videos coupled with your store makes sourcing and installing for us DIYers easy, safe and uncomplicated! You pointed out on this install that this particular system was too undersized (meaning battery bank) to power the AC compressor. But could a samll 300amp hour(ish) system power a 15K AC compressor if the AC has a soft-start OR a 13.5K AC with a soft start? My assumption is "Yes" but I'm hoping you can give a quick clarification. Thank you again for the great work!
So the multi plus two can be mounted side ways?... Good to know. For a 13v 3000va 120amp Whats the watts? Running 240v 15amp shore power or via batteries? Seems half says 2400w and others 3000w?
Love your videos. Would you have an update as to how the Multiplus performed mounted on its side? I would like to get the Mutiplus 2x 120 but I have an older model RV and the height in my bays are under 23 inch in height. I thought of doing a side mount.
This was very helpful. Just purchased a Brinkley Z 2900 and will source one of your kits after we get home after our month long trip in August. You folks make it look so easy.
I'm building a custom project with an existing enclosed trailer and planning to install a Multiplus II 24V with my 24V battery bank (using 24V since I will transfer the system later to my off-grid homestead). I want to keep all the existing 12V trailer lights (where each has the negative/ground wire directly attached to the metal frame). Would the grounding to the frame (from Lynx distributor and/or Multiplus) still be the same setup as you're showing in the vid? What's messing with my mind is having 12V and 24V grounded to same frame. I understand that the "grounds" from each little 12V LED trailer light are simply the negative connections to make them work - so basically the frame completes the "circuit" for the lights... Then attaching a 24V ground to the same frame is what's throwing my understanding off (I've heard of ground loops but don't fully understand them). I'm still learning but just want to make sure I'm creating a safe setup. :) Thanks for your videos! I'm learning a lot.
Hey Nate, good install. A few things to consider here: The anderson connector on the truck could have benefited from a springback protected cover with grommets like the one supplied from trailer vision, likewise the anderson on the RV should have a cable sheath and rubber cover. The terminals will corrode and fill with water/dust in no time. For monitoring the the Cerbo GX would have been a great compliment to the system. Hope it doesn't get too warm down there under load. Anyway keep up the good work mate👍
I used the Trailer Vision to cover up my SB50 connector on the truck and wrapped all wires in a cable sheathing to give it a nice clean look and protect the wires.
Looking for someone who has just replaced their Lead Acid Battery with a Lithium Ion Battery. All the videos I see, it is a BIG upgrade. No Inverters or major Solar package. I just want to improve my ability to use my small Trailer without Shore Power for a couple of days. Keep the Fridge controller (running on Propane) running, Water Pump and lights. No AC or Microwave or other AC needed.
Hey, I really enjoy how you walk through everything ! I have a question though. When you install the DC to DC, to you need to cut off the original process of charging in some way ? I have a friend that probably bypass that step and he got his truck battery that litteraly overheat and broke because of the overload of the lithium. So I'm wondering about that. Thanks !
Hi Nate, Regarding the Victron Shunts. I see you selected the shunt with the wired meter. What are your thoughts about the Victron SmartShunt 500 amp Battery Monitor (w/Bluetooth)? Cheers, Eric
This is amazing. I've watched so many videos on Victron's own channel and come away more confused every time. Question: If the negative side of the Lynx is grounded, then why is the additional ground wire from solar to multi required?
Really nice job with the explanation of the whole process. One question you mentioned that the Victron inverter is not sized to handle the A/C. Would installing a Micro-Air easystart on the compressor work for a setup like this?
Another outstanding "how to" video. I purchased and followed your detailed diagram for a 3000w system a few years ago and the system is still working great. If I was doing an install today, I would definitely buy all of the necessary install kits from you to make sourcing easier. Keep up the great work.
I have completed my splice and connection to the inverter with the existing converter breaker off, everything works great. I am wondering if I can just remove the existing converter because it will provide a perfect location for the splice box. Can I just remove it or is there more to it?
Great video! by chance do you have a video that has a solar panel already installed on the roof by the manufacturer? I have a 24' Winnebago Micro Mini with a single solar panel on the roof and says it's prewired for an inverter but I'm not sure where to start and what I would need for a system like this. Thanks!
Hi Nate, great info and so well presented - as always! One question, you've mentioned stress testing your installations but I've looked around and can't find any information on how you do that. Any suggestions?
Fantastic video broken down into easily explained and understood segments! When you discussed mounting the Multiplus horizontally, you mentioned stress testing they system when you finished the install. What were the results of the stress test and any heat issues with the Multiplus? As with the Imagine you worked on, I have the same issue with the lack of vertical height sufficient to install the Multiplus vertically. Also, did you make any note or measurements regarding the fan volume of the Multiplus while in use? Would it be feasible from a noise and heat standpoint to install the whole set up on the opposite side of the bulkhead underneath the bed?
I don't understand why you used an isolated Orion TR Smart if the negativ bus bar from the Lynx is connected to the frame of the trailer and the trailer is connected to the frame of the towing vehicle (when driving) and this car frame is connected to the negativ of the starting batterie and there is the cabel to the negativ input of the Orion connected. My question is 1: why not using an unisolated Orion? and 2: is it ok to shunt negativ input and output of this isolated Orion? Thanks for helping me to understand...
Nate, great work. One kinda significant point, the solar panel roof anchors were not installed properly. Ideally the surface between the roof and bracket should have been pre-caulked and then anchored (using something like Sikaflex or Lexel), then lap-sealed around all 4 sides and holes. The way it was done here, capillary action will draw water under the back of the plate on the one uncaulked side, and allow a leak or backerboard to rot.
Thanks for watching! The tape we used is specifically designed to form a waterproof gasket. I know this may not be enough for everybody (much like everthing I show on this channel 🤣), and if that's you, feel free to dicor/seal where/however you like.
For those that don't have a solid roof on their travel trailer, using channel strut into the crossbars of the roof make a secure mounting bracket for solar panels. If your travel trailer is an ultra lite and didn't come with a ladder attached, it's probably too thin to simply screw into and hold the panels.
I upgraded my Imagine 17MKE to 300 Ah of lithium, 3000 watt inverter, two solar chargers. Works very well. 370 watts on the roof and 200-400 watts portable. Great video. Glad to see you both in it.
I have a question. Since you are installing a 110v source on the rv, should you not have an earth wire that grounds the system to the earth (from the chassis) when stationary? In my mind this would assist the 110v breakers to do their job.
This video is invaluable, thank you! When I wired in my inverter (which works great!), I attempted to turn the RV converter off however when I do (based on grand design's indication on the panel), the whole RV loses power. I'm not sure what that is indicating? Thank you!
This may take some more in-depth troubleshooting. If you have purchased/are purchasing from our store (shop.explorist.life) reach out for some more personalized help: shop.explorist.life/support If you've purchased/are purchasing elsewhere, reach out to your dealer for support. We'd love to have you as a shop.explorist.life customer so we can provide a bit more help in the future. 🙂
I am installing 4-200ah lithium batteries (LiTime) in my 50A service camper. I could have as much as 1200w of solar panels connect between 600w mounted on the roof and possibly 600 w portable all connected to a solar charge controller. I am considering the Victron Energy MultiPlus-II 2X 120V, 3000VA 12-Volt Pure Sine Wave Inverter and 120 amp Battery Charger, will this inverter be adequate for this application?
So I just bought a Grand Design Imagine XLS 22BHE and it’s a lot like this trailer except it has the Furrion 40Amp solar charger and AC/DC converter charger that both support Lithium batteries. It does not have a 12v to 120v inverter however. Though it is “prepped” for one. So if I wanted to upgrade to a good Lithium battery like Battleborn, I can just basically drop one in and change the solar charge controller to Lithium? The converter manual says it auto-detects the type of battery. So seems like I can just use a Lithium battery without any of this? I do want an inverter that has enough power to run the TV and fans when off grid though. So can I just splice in a Victron inverter and call it a day?
Most people will want to do something similar to what we've done so that they have proper system monitoring in place to make sure everything is working as it should and get a higher quality component than what you'll get from the RV factory. Obviously if you want to stray from that, that's fine, but I'll be limited on the amount of support I can provide if you're leaving pretty much all factory components in place.
First let me say this is a first class video. Great job! Two things...when you connected to the chassis for ground, was that aluminum? I'd be concerned about corrosion at that connection because of the dissimilar metals. While both copper and aluminum both conduct well, they don't play nice together. Second, have you considered adding a soft starter to the A/C unit? That may make it to where it could run on the battery system.
The chassis ground isn’t carrying any kind of current under normal circumstances so that isn’t much of a concern for me. If it is for you, you could put some dielectric grease on the connection as you wish when you get to that step of your install A soft start would indeed give the air conditioner a better chance of firing up, but it would still really be pushing the limits of the equipment.
Sounds like you have 50A shore power. This tutorial video that features the Multiplus 2x120V would be more appropriate: ua-cam.com/video/PavRWuOax1M/v-deo.html
Lock washers haven’t been proven to be less than useless, no. But if you are passionate about the miniscule detail of this build, feel free to swap hardware as you see fit. That’s just getting nit picky as far as I’m concerned.
I think my only question on this whole install is... Could you pull the wires back in to the pass-through that came from the factory battery on the tongue? That way you could get rid of wires running up to the tongue in that area would be nice and clean.
The way we showed is the way that will work for 99% of RV's on the road regardless of if they have only 1 pair of connections on the tongue or 16. If you want to stray from that and re-wire factory equipment, that's your prerogative, but we can't offer customer support on that if that's the chosen direction.
Hmm. Just get a 3k solar generator and plug it in to the 30amp plug with portable panels. Done. Probably more power and much cheaper with no installation. Or just make your own portable solar generator for half the price.
why not pull the converter out of the RV? I really got lost with your explanation of of the Lynx connections, wiring and the battery box on the tongue. Why did that need to remain????
It's just easier and reversable if you leave it in place and just turn it off. You can totally remove it if you like, it's just more work for no benefit.
I am about to install a solar system in my 1972 gm greyhound bus. My challenge is some batteries come with a C1 rating and some with a C.5 rating which is better to purchase?
@EXPLORISTlife I'm working on a very similar Grand Design and will be installing in a similar but smaller pass through compartment. I ordered my parts from you last week. Can I install the Lynx Distributor, 100/50, and Smart Shunt upside down on the ceiling of the pass through to save space?
Victron is the absolute best equipment I've ever used in this application. I have no complaints. I'm curious. What did this install cost? I estimate 13k
If installing a system like this in a caravan , is there a need for an earth to be connected from the inverter to the lynx distributor? It seems redundant to me but I thought I would ask. Thank you for all the amazing content
why connect to shore power, convert to 12 volts and then invert back to AC? Doing so you do not supply the power for the air conditioner to run. So, no air conditioning at all in your setup.
They create some heat and noise; yes. About the same as a computer or video game console. I sleep with a white noise app on my phone or a fan running...so I'm not somebody who wants/needs complete silence while sleeping.
After watching our tutorial and seeing where we installed our dc dc charger, what do you think we recommend? 😉🤣 I would immediately discredit any source saying to install the dc dc charger near the starter battery.
Our electrical systems and kits work with nearly any brand of battery on the market. When you’re ready to upgrade your campers electrical system, we’d love to have you as a shop.explorist.life customer, regardless of your battery preference.
Nate & Steph, Wow, this is my 3rd time watching this video! Ha-ha 🤪 I see you used a Victron MPPT 150|60 Tr charge controller (not sure what the Tr means?). I'm sure all solar panels are different, but my Furrion panel is 165W with that Voc spec at 20.4 (so if my goal were 4 panels, then ... "I think, if I'm beginning to learn," all I need is 4 × 20.4Voc = 81.6 . Like a Victon 100|30 or 100|50 ??? Does this mean your friends 22MLE have panels with high power Voc specs that drove the 150|60 Tr Charge Controller? 🤔 Cheers & thank you, Eric
I'm sure the ecoflow is probably less expensive, but that's sorta like going to a ford dealership, looking at the Super Duty's and asking what the price difference between that and a Ford Focus is. 🤣😂🤷
Thanks, used this video for our upgrade, and ordered the Lynx Distributor and the Splice Kit from you. Question that might be a quick answer, but maybe not. You recommend disabling the breaker for the OEM converter when disconnected from shore power due to the circular power loss. However, when connected to shore power, I noticed my fridge will not utilize A/C power unless I flip the breaker for the OEM converter back on. When disconnected from shore power (and with the breaker for the OEM converter off) the fridge will only work on Gas and neither A/C nor D/C work. Any suggestions/thoughts?
Wonder if the converter and fridge are on the same circuit? You could unplug/disconnect the converter and leave the breaker on to try to chase that down.
@@EXPLORISTlife Oh my gosh! Fist off, wow, thank you so much for your quick reply...didn't expect that at all, and we are leaving on a five week trailer trip and I just completed this upgrade so really wanted to make sure everything was working properly. Secondly, that was totally it! I remembered after seeing your response that there was a second wire connected together with the converter and going into that breaker. I just fully removed the OEM converter and put only the fridge on that breaker so, now I can just leave it on. THANK YOU! THANK YOU! THANK YOU!!
Great question! When we were deciding how to design these systems, a main focus was to make it so these videos are repeatable by nearly everybody wanting to upgrade their camper regardless of make/model of camper. Most campers on the road have a dozen or so various wires connected to the OEM battery; which would not be feasible to move inside; so we are just bringing power to the OEM battery for those following along who have a bunch of connections at the battery (see the last full install in a truck camper for an example of an OEM battery with a LOT of connections/wires.)
@@EXPLORISTlifeyep, and there's usually some circuit breakers located right there on the tongue, the tongue jack and slides are usually on separate breakers up there.
Yeah, the OEM wiring up under the tongue was a bit of a mess and I didn't quite understand where everything was going; but ultimately, we didn't need to spend any time figuring any of that out since it was working just fine from the factory and we just needed to supply power to all of those pre-existing circuits; regardless of what they were going to.
@@EXPLORISTlifeyeah I was wondering how you were going to tackle that since every rig is different. I was able to move mine inside to a busbar next to my battery bank. Unfortunately I built mine before the lynx distributor was available.
Wow! What a great video but the info is a little over my head. I’m new to RV’ing. I just bought a small Coleman (Dutchmen) travel trailer. I’m hoping to start with a small project as follows: I’d like to upgrade to a Battle Born house battery and add a Victron Orion 12-12/30 DC2DC charger with Anderson connectors for alternator charging as I drive, as you did here. Here’s my question…will adding the Orion cause complications with the existing OEM charging equipment? i.e. Can I add the Orion without removing and/or replacing the OEM AC/DC charger?
Very informative video. I am planning to add solar to my 2022 Grand Designs Imagine 2600RB. We want the system to support running the A/C as well. What capacity battery bank and solar array should I be looking at? Thanks.
Is an inverter-charger combo needed ONLY if you don't already have a basic solar package that came with your RV? For example, my 2024 Jay Feather 21MML came with a 200W solar panel and a charge controller. It also has a converter that is lithium ready. My ultimate goal is to replace the lead-acid battery with a 300-460 ah lithium. I would also like to get an inverter, but if I don't need to get the inverter-charger, I would prefer not to. What say you? (by the way, I believe it is also "inverter ready")
We do Inverter/Chargers as it makes the overall wiring SIGNIFICANTLY easier, faster, and cheaper with less wiring over messing with secondary transfer switches.
I have a 2019 sprinter 170 extended with 60K miles and many options including 10 inch display and cameras all around. Following your instructions, I added a 500 watt inverter (only about a 30amp draw) to position 6 in the tray using 2awg wire. Connecting to the X145 term #1 I ran a wire to a 200 amp isolator so that the inverter could only operate when the engine was running. This was for emergency purposes if my rerar 3500 watt inverter connected to 800ah lithium battery bank ever crapped out. After putting everything back the engine started right away. took it for a test drive and everything seemed to work as intended, BUT after driving 70 miles to camp on a friends mountain property ---the chassis battery was below 12 volts and it would not start I fact the entire MB side of the house was blacked out--NO LIGHTS ete Borrowing a charger and a long extension cord I was able to get the battery to 12.9 volts and restarted the van in the morning. It immediately went into fast idle mode (an option I did not select when I purchased the van) and this lasted about 10 minutes before slowing to 800 rpms. Driving it out of the mountains, there was a check engine light and glow plug light as well as a battery warning message --also none of the lane keeping or adaptive speed control would work. After replacing the battery and charging it overnight, all functions returned. It has been to the dealer twice. At their suggestion, I disconnected the inverter from the tray. BUT it still does not appear that the alternator is charging the battery.. I returned from a 4500 mile trip camping around the Great Lakes last month. The van ran like a champ averaging 20mpg and never having an issue starting. Do you have any idea what could have gone so wrong? The dealer's head Sprinter Tech said since 2019 the alternator and entire electrical system is mighty touchy. He suggested if I would like to again connect into the OEM electrical system to do so at the battery.
The studs coming off the distributor appear to be aluminum or possibly steel, assuming they aren't nickle coated copper. Assuming they aren't plated copper, is this the suggested way of making this connection?
We have a 2022 Keystone Raptor 352 that came with a 400 watt solar package. The dealer really didn't give me much information to go with and I don't find a lot online about it either. I would really just like to understand the Victron equipment that I have so that I have an understanding of what I can and can't do when considering an upgrade to this system. Just my luck, it will probably just be a tear it out and replace it system...isn't that what they generally add?
I see the OEM using solid core Romex wire for the incoming shore power, a big no no. Solid wire is not meant for a Mobil installation. It is prone to fatigue. Only stranded wire, preferably type 3 is the proper wire for Mobil use. Wonder what else this manufacture does incorectly
Love your videos Nate and Team EXPLORISTlife! I've noticed you prefer all copper lugs over tinned copper lugs. When it comes to long-term corrosion protection, do you see any added benefit to tinned copper lugs? Thanks and keep the great vids coming!!
So, all of the wiring in a camper is un-tinned copper, so to me, the added expense of making the wiring last longer than the factory wiring is not necessary. I'd suspect the frame and roof of the camper will rot long before the wires corrode to the point of needing replacement.
Tinned copper is important for marine or similar harsh environments, not nearly as important for this application. In the old days with lead-acid batteries the terminals attached to those batteries needed to be tinned because acid. LiFePO4 don't have that problem. (thank goodness!)
Since you don't have a switch where you splice the Multiplus into the existing AC circuit, doesn't that mean that the shore power connector terminals on the outside of the trailer will have live AC voltage on them when the Multiplus is powering the AC side of the trailer? I think that means the exposed male terminals on the other end of the shore power cord -- if it were plugged into the trailer -- would have live AC voltage on them and could backfeed that into the shore power receptacle.
Nope. Powe flow goes: shore power inlet -> multiplus ac in -> multiplus ac out -> breaker box. There's no way it would go backwards. The input and output inside of the splice box aren't connected in any way.
@@EXPLORISTlife Ahh, got it! Thanks. The splice kit runs shore power TO the Multiplus. Then the splice kit takes AC power out of the Multiplus and feeds the AC side of the trailer.
❗❗ *IF YOU WANT A SYSTEM LIKE THIS:* ❗❗
*Here is the core kit:* shop.explorist.life/shop/all-products/30a-oem-rv-retrofit-2000w-inverter-200-1000ah-battery-bank-dc-dc-charger-wiring-diagram-kit/
*Also available with a 3kVA Inverter:* shop.explorist.life/shop/all-products/30a-oem-rv-upgrade-400-1200ah-battery-bank-multiplus-3k-12-orion-12-12-30-wiring-diagram-kit/
*And then you can add whatever solar you like/need from these options (12V battery bank options):* shop.explorist.life/product-category/all-products/camper-wiring-kits/solar-charging-wiring-kits/
Or...
*Here is the EXACT setup we showed in this video:* shop.explorist.life/shop/all-products/travel-trailer-electrical-upgrade-270ah-battery-multiplus-2k-12v-800w-solar-orion-12-12-30/
*GET $50 OFF PER BATTLE BORN BATTERY WITH CODE explorist AT CHECKOUT:* battlebornbatteries.com/shop/brands/battle-born-batteries/?afmc=explorist_bb67
I purchased all this before I found your site Sad but that is reality
The reason I want to know about C rates is as I am a DYI person and want you to know build my own batteries Of course cost is a huge factor in this choice
can i do a 3000 w inverter instead of a 2000w for this system
The link is broken?
I dont think you guys know how much we have been waiting for an RV related video that works for us all! This is great. Thanks!
Hey, @andrewhofmann5453! I appreciate that. Thanks for watching! 🙂😀
Agreed! I have learned so much by watching just a few videos… I feel like such a nerd 😂
Why is solar panel wiring such a "thinner" gauge? Do they eventually need to be "thicker" with the more solar panels in use?
@@1gestebanthe higher the voltage the thinner the wiring you can get by with because you size the wire by amps
This video is great! I'm almost done retrofitting my daughters 30 amp OEM system and this helped fill in some final pieces. Also, your wiring kits are fantastic. I have sourced most of my upgrade through you with excellent shipping times and accuracy. Great job!
I'm more confused now than ever...... Not your fault, just more to it than I imagined, but I will do it myself 😉
I really hope you're on the payroll and get shares of Victron. You guys do an amazing job of explaining everything.
Quick question. I purchased the wireing diagram for this project and have found it very helpful. The diagram shows 4x100ah batteries. I am using 2 and not placing in a Multi plus as of yet. The fuse size on the Lynx Dist for the wire running from the Lynx to the existing battery terminals is 150 amp. Since I am using 2 100ah lithium batteries do I still use the same fuse size?
If you purchased those wires/fuses/components from shop.explorist.life, shoot us a support ticket at shop.explorist.life/support and we can check into what you've already purchased and ensure it's correct for you.
What a great video. Your technical knowledge and explanations are priceless. Also your kits are easy to use for us DIYers.
Hey, @scottd143! I appreciate that. Thanks for watching! 🙂😀
Another awesome detailed video guys! What a great install this is I'm sure the owners are very happy. Do you happen to have a link to the blind bolt kit you used to attached the ground from the lynx dist to the frame?
I used Anderson connectors on my truck for the DC-DC charger I have, its great. So great, that I cut the power cord to my Viair compressor and put an Anderson connector in the middle of that. Now I can power it from the rear bumper or connect the original clamps to battery up front.
Great Idea!
I could watch this stuff all day. Is it uncommon that I am contemplating a career change, so I can do cool stuff like this all the time? I've done a lithium battery and the 712 with inverter and new converter in my little TT so far, solely from the confidence and complete explanations of each step that you provide. Thank you Nate and Steph!
Great video! Can't wait to follow your guide for my Grand Design Imagine. Did you reinforce the wall to install all the Victron components? Would the Victron Multiplus 3000 be enough to power the AC and would it have any heat issues in the storage bay? Thank you!
I have an RV trailer that is nearly identical to the one in your video. Thanks for this.
Our pleasure! Thanks for watching!
Hey thank you for putting this video together! It is the most comprehensive video I've seen on going from zero to fully decked out. I have to figure out how I'm going to run power to the Multpass 2 and back to the fuse panel, but one problem at a time!
You guys do a top-notch job. So clean so detailed is unbelievable
Hey @tomwilliam5118, Thanks so much! Cheers!
Stephanie has truly turned out to be an A+++ PRODIGY.
Your tutorials has always been helpful, we appreciate your input.
Hey, @ascenttev6022! I appreciate that. Thanks for watching! 🙂😀
Outstanding. As a retired electrical/Mechanical contractor I understand most of this. The equipment is new to me. Thank you. I’m subscribed.
Nate & Steph,
It was so nice to see the beautiful job you did on Kurt & Laurie's 22MLE!
OMG, I say, because my wife & I, also retired (and my college buddy Murf & Nancy) have 22MLE's as well! 😎
Mine 2023 came with a charge controller & Solar on roof, but we want "MORE POWER" lol. Maybe 3 or 4 panels?
All I have done so far is upgraded to a 12v 230Ah LiTime battery.
1. I've watched your 12v vs 24v discussion and wondered if building the same system you did for Kurt & Laurie... but with a 24V Battery & System would have good advantages?
2. Also I love that Victron Power Assist feature, but could I use that with my lil 1600w (2000w surge) inverter generator to create enough power to run Air Conditioning?
3. Where are you & your shop located?
Cheers, Eric
Thanks!
1: There is no reason to do this system as 24V.
2: Probably. Especially if you've got a soft-start on the AC. If you want a guarentee that the AC will work; you'll want the next size up on the Multiplus (3k) w/ a little bigger battery bank (400Ah minimum).
3: Northwest Colorado. We ship worldwide, though, and ship for free on orders over $200 within the contiguous USA.
@EXPLORISTlife Thank you for your reply.
If I understand correctly, the combo of my battery bank (with a 2nd 230Ah battery) and my 1600W Generator (and magic of the Victron "Power Assist") WILL power my Soft Start AC. But best if the Inverter-Charger were 3000 vice 2000.
With 3000W capability, am I at risk of the stock Battery wires overheating? I noticed your battery relocation kit used much heavier wire to the stock batery box location.
Cheers, Eric
Are you sure 6 AWG is the appropriate size for the DC-DC Charger? The Victron install instructions say to use 16mm2 (~6 AWG) for circuit length up to 10m; however, this seems to be the length of the positive conductor only in the illustration. With a truck and trailer that long, the entire circuit length (positive and negative conductors from the starter battery all the way to the DC Charger) probably far exceeds that 10 meter length. That caused significant voltage drop for me and I didn't get full output from the DC Charger until I upsized to 2 AWG wire and shortened the circuit length. I have a discussion on the Victron Community Forum about this.
Indeed I am sure 6ga is the proper size. In fact, I made a video about a year ago about how wire size and voltage drop affects chargers: ua-cam.com/video/0xOvINH4tKs/v-deo.html
@EXPLORISTlife Thanks for the link. Because the smart alternator in my 2017 Tacoma is goofy (controlled completely by the ECM and never outputs more than about 13.5v), the 6% voltage drop I was experiencing through the 6 AWG wire over a total circuit length of 60 feet was enough to complicate the Engine Shutdown Detection settings. By the time I got the Shutdown Voltage set low enough to account for the 6% voltage drop (and the fact that the Tacoma ECM regularly turns the alternator voltage output down to
An ignition wire to the 'h' pin of Orion is sorta the stop-gap for situations like that.
These video's and wiring kit packages are just plain Awsome Nat and his crew have taken so much guess work out of the processes and planning.
Love your videos. Been waiting for this one. How come you grounded the solar charge controller to the inverter/charger? as oppose to doubling up on the ground stud on the lynx distributor? Can you do this with any inverter? I have used your videos to upgrade my rv's lead acid batteries with 2 100 amp hour battleborn batteries, the lynx distributor, and I am currently adding the victron MPPT Charger controller. I did find your videos after i upgrade my oem WFCO converter/charger for one that has a lithium battery switch and I am keeping my existing Xantrax 2000 Inverter. I am not sure if i can/should ground the solar charge controller to my Xantrax 2000 Inverter or what the alternative would be. Thanks for all these videos! i just let them play all day while I am at work!
I have a question. Grand Designs usually makes an inverter prep which is seen in the storage bay. Its just a loop in the power line from the Shore power to the panel. If a person took advantage of this in the storage bay you wouldn't need to take a line back to the panel would you? You would essentially be tapping into the same line at a different place. Did this travel trailer not have an inverter prep loop on it?
Second question. I have a 17 foot trailer with 30A shore power but I want a solar setup that will run my AC so I plan on around 500 watts on the roof and a 3k charger inverter. I want to use Victron but the Victron MultiPlus-II 2X Pure Sine Wave Inverter Charger for 120 amp Battery, 120V, 3000VA 12-Volt says it needs a 50A shore power. As long as I dont try and hook it up to 50A it shouldnt be a problem would it?
When you wired the battery to the old battery bank, the wire size you used was 2AWG but that existing battery bank look like it used 6 or 8AWG. Any concerns about going to such a small wire size at the OEM wiring?
All of those small wires would have had proper fusing from the factory, which was left in place to accommodate this decrease in wire size. Similar to how there are smaller wires coming from larger wire at the Lynx Distributor.
@Explorist Life Team - Awesome video for us TT DIYers! Thank you for creating these videos and offering the equipment and kits via your store. As many others have previusly said, your work and videos coupled with your store makes sourcing and installing for us DIYers easy, safe and uncomplicated! You pointed out on this install that this particular system was too undersized (meaning battery bank) to power the AC compressor. But could a samll 300amp hour(ish) system power a 15K AC compressor if the AC has a soft-start OR a 13.5K AC with a soft start? My assumption is "Yes" but I'm hoping you can give a quick clarification. Thank you again for the great work!
So the multi plus two can be mounted side ways?...
Good to know.
For a 13v 3000va 120amp
Whats the watts?
Running 240v 15amp shore power or via batteries?
Seems half says 2400w and others 3000w?
Love your videos. Would you have an update as to how the Multiplus performed mounted on its side? I would like to get the Mutiplus 2x 120 but I have an older model RV and the height in my bays are under 23 inch in height. I thought of doing a side mount.
This was very helpful. Just purchased a Brinkley Z 2900 and will source one of your kits after we get home after our month long trip in August. You folks make it look so easy.
I'm building a custom project with an existing enclosed trailer and planning to install a Multiplus II 24V with my 24V battery bank (using 24V since I will transfer the system later to my off-grid homestead). I want to keep all the existing 12V trailer lights (where each has the negative/ground wire directly attached to the metal frame). Would the grounding to the frame (from Lynx distributor and/or Multiplus) still be the same setup as you're showing in the vid?
What's messing with my mind is having 12V and 24V grounded to same frame. I understand that the "grounds" from each little 12V LED trailer light are simply the negative connections to make them work - so basically the frame completes the "circuit" for the lights... Then attaching a 24V ground to the same frame is what's throwing my understanding off (I've heard of ground loops but don't fully understand them).
I'm still learning but just want to make sure I'm creating a safe setup. :)
Thanks for your videos! I'm learning a lot.
Most helpful video I've seen. Thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Hey Nate, good install. A few things to consider here:
The anderson connector on the truck could have benefited from a springback protected cover with grommets like the one supplied from trailer vision, likewise the anderson on the RV should have a cable sheath and rubber cover.
The terminals will corrode and fill with water/dust in no time.
For monitoring the the Cerbo GX would have been a great compliment to the system.
Hope it doesn't get too warm down there under load. Anyway keep up the good work mate👍
I used the Trailer Vision to cover up my SB50 connector on the truck and wrapped all wires in a cable sheathing to give it a nice clean look and protect the wires.
Looking for someone who has just replaced their Lead Acid Battery with a Lithium Ion Battery.
All the videos I see, it is a BIG upgrade.
No Inverters or major Solar package. I just want to improve my ability to use my small Trailer without Shore Power for a couple of days.
Keep the Fridge controller (running on Propane) running, Water Pump and lights. No AC or Microwave or other AC needed.
Hey, I really enjoy how you walk through everything !
I have a question though. When you install the DC to DC, to you need to cut off the original process of charging in some way ? I have a friend that probably bypass that step and he got his truck battery that litteraly overheat and broke because of the overload of the lithium. So I'm wondering about that.
Thanks !
What an awesome video. I'm just lost with my inverter/charger on my camper.. it's plugged into an outlet? I'm assuming to power to 110v outlets?
Hi Nate,
Regarding the Victron Shunts. I see you selected the shunt with the wired meter.
What are your thoughts about the Victron SmartShunt 500 amp Battery Monitor (w/Bluetooth)?
Cheers, Eric
This is amazing. I've watched so many videos on Victron's own channel and come away more confused every time.
Question: If the negative side of the Lynx is grounded, then why is the additional ground wire from solar to multi required?
Really nice job with the explanation of the whole process. One question you mentioned that the Victron inverter is not sized to handle the A/C. Would installing a Micro-Air easystart on the compressor work for a setup like this?
Another outstanding "how to" video. I purchased and followed your detailed diagram for a 3000w system a few years ago and the system is still working great. If I was doing an install today, I would definitely buy all of the necessary install kits from you to make sourcing easier. Keep up the great work.
Hey, @19ken49! I appreciate that. Thanks for watching! 🙂😀
I have completed my splice and connection to the inverter with the existing converter breaker off, everything works great. I am wondering if I can just remove the existing converter because it will provide a perfect location for the splice box. Can I just remove it or is there more to it?
Great video! by chance do you have a video that has a solar panel already installed on the roof by the manufacturer? I have a 24' Winnebago Micro Mini with a single solar panel on the roof and says it's prewired for an inverter but I'm not sure where to start and what I would need for a system like this. Thanks!
Hi Nate, great info and so well presented - as always! One question, you've mentioned stress testing your installations but I've looked around and can't find any information on how you do that. Any suggestions?
Fantastic video broken down into easily explained and understood segments! When you discussed mounting the Multiplus horizontally, you mentioned stress testing they system when you finished the install. What were the results of the stress test and any heat issues with the Multiplus? As with the Imagine you worked on, I have the same issue with the lack of vertical height sufficient to install the Multiplus vertically. Also, did you make any note or measurements regarding the fan volume of the Multiplus while in use? Would it be feasible from a noise and heat standpoint to install the whole set up on the opposite side of the bulkhead underneath the bed?
I don't understand why you used an isolated Orion TR Smart if the negativ bus bar from the Lynx is connected to the frame of the trailer and the trailer is connected to the frame of the towing vehicle (when driving) and this car frame is connected to the negativ of the starting batterie and there is the cabel to the negativ input of the Orion connected.
My question is 1: why not using an unisolated Orion? and 2: is it ok to shunt negativ input and output of this isolated Orion?
Thanks for helping me to understand...
Would this same diagram work with the Victron single phase 30A ( 3000W ) inverter?
Nate, great work. One kinda significant point, the solar panel roof anchors were not installed properly. Ideally the surface between the roof and bracket should have been pre-caulked and then anchored (using something like Sikaflex or Lexel), then lap-sealed around all 4 sides and holes. The way it was done here, capillary action will draw water under the back of the plate on the one uncaulked side, and allow a leak or backerboard to rot.
Thanks for watching! The tape we used is specifically designed to form a waterproof gasket. I know this may not be enough for everybody (much like everthing I show on this channel 🤣), and if that's you, feel free to dicor/seal where/however you like.
@@EXPLORISTlife sorry, didn't see the tape, must have missed it. I agree, a Bituthene like product can work well in a "smoothish" surface.
For those that don't have a solid roof on their travel trailer, using channel strut into the crossbars of the roof make a secure mounting bracket for solar panels. If your travel trailer is an ultra lite and didn't come with a ladder attached, it's probably too thin to simply screw into and hold the panels.
What a great resource. You guys are so clear and concise with your tutorials. Excellent videos. Bravo!
Where can I get the brush like bulkhead passthru’s you used for passing wires?
I upgraded my Imagine 17MKE to 300 Ah of lithium, 3000 watt inverter, two solar chargers. Works very well. 370 watts on the roof and 200-400 watts portable. Great video. Glad to see you both in it.
How do you determine the fuse amperage for each mega fuse in the distribution block
Wont the SmartShunt reset the SOC every time you cutoff the system since the shunt looses power?
We have it programmed to 'forget' the SOC every time it loses power and will reset at the first full charge.
In the process of adding a Victron DC to DC charger in my trailer as well. Thank you for the excellent tutorials, they have been extremely helpful!
I have a similar trailer and I would like to know what are you doing to cool down the system.
How did you install the grounding stud on the rv frame, did you use a pop rivet or some other tool and part
I have a question. Since you are installing a 110v source on the rv, should you not have an earth wire that grounds the system to the earth (from the chassis) when stationary? In my mind this would assist the 110v breakers to do their job.
Yep! But we don't need to wire that. It happens automatically through the ground-neutral bond relay inside of the multiplus.
What system would I need to power my AC my camper is the same as this one?
This video is invaluable, thank you!
When I wired in my inverter (which works great!), I attempted to turn the RV converter off however when I do (based on grand design's indication on the panel), the whole RV loses power. I'm not sure what that is indicating? Thank you!
This may take some more in-depth troubleshooting. If you have purchased/are purchasing from our store (shop.explorist.life) reach out for some more personalized help: shop.explorist.life/support
If you've purchased/are purchasing elsewhere, reach out to your dealer for support. We'd love to have you as a shop.explorist.life customer so we can provide a bit more help in the future. 🙂
I am installing 4-200ah lithium batteries (LiTime) in my 50A service camper. I could have as much as 1200w of solar panels connect between 600w mounted on the roof and possibly 600 w portable all connected to a solar charge controller. I am considering the Victron Energy MultiPlus-II 2X 120V, 3000VA 12-Volt Pure Sine Wave Inverter and 120 amp Battery Charger, will this inverter be adequate for this application?
Indeed! You should try the system picker we have on the front page of shop.explorist.life to get some more details on everything you'd need.
So I just bought a Grand Design Imagine XLS 22BHE and it’s a lot like this trailer except it has the Furrion 40Amp solar charger and AC/DC converter charger that both support Lithium batteries. It does not have a 12v to 120v inverter however. Though it is “prepped” for one. So if I wanted to upgrade to a good Lithium battery like Battleborn, I can just basically drop one in and change the solar charge controller to Lithium? The converter manual says it auto-detects the type of battery. So seems like I can just use a Lithium battery without any of this? I do want an inverter that has enough power to run the TV and fans when off grid though. So can I just splice in a Victron inverter and call it a day?
Most people will want to do something similar to what we've done so that they have proper system monitoring in place to make sure everything is working as it should and get a higher quality component than what you'll get from the RV factory. Obviously if you want to stray from that, that's fine, but I'll be limited on the amount of support I can provide if you're leaving pretty much all factory components in place.
My God. Best video ever on changing to Solar. I wish you would do that same setup to a 48 volt system. Thanks
Glad it was helpful! A 48V system would not be beneficial in this setup. It's too small.
Unless I’ve missed it, it would be helpful to know what size megafuses you have installed onto the Lynx distributor for each component and why.
The component kits we installed from our store shop.explorist.life come with the proper fuse size, so you don’t have to figure it out on your own.
First let me say this is a first class video. Great job!
Two things...when you connected to the chassis for ground, was that aluminum? I'd be concerned about corrosion at that connection because of the dissimilar metals. While both copper and aluminum both conduct well, they don't play nice together.
Second, have you considered adding a soft starter to the A/C unit? That may make it to where it could run on the battery system.
The chassis ground isn’t carrying any kind of current under normal circumstances so that isn’t much of a concern for me. If it is for you, you could put some dielectric grease on the connection as you wish when you get to that step of your install
A soft start would indeed give the air conditioner a better chance of firing up, but it would still really be pushing the limits of the equipment.
my Victron Multiplex II 3000 Imverter has an L1 and L2 for both the AC in and AC Out. Which one is the L port you refer to in your Video?
Sounds like you have 50A shore power. This tutorial video that features the Multiplus 2x120V would be more appropriate: ua-cam.com/video/PavRWuOax1M/v-deo.html
As lock washers are proven to be worse than useless, I’m wondering why you don’t recommend a different securing system such as nylon lock nuts?
Lock washers haven’t been proven to be less than useless, no. But if you are passionate about the miniscule detail of this build, feel free to swap hardware as you see fit. That’s just getting nit picky as far as I’m concerned.
I think my only question on this whole install is... Could you pull the wires back in to the pass-through that came from the factory battery on the tongue? That way you could get rid of wires running up to the tongue in that area would be nice and clean.
The way we showed is the way that will work for 99% of RV's on the road regardless of if they have only 1 pair of connections on the tongue or 16. If you want to stray from that and re-wire factory equipment, that's your prerogative, but we can't offer customer support on that if that's the chosen direction.
Hmm. Just get a 3k solar generator and plug it in to the 30amp plug with portable panels. Done. Probably more power and much cheaper with no installation. Or just make your own portable solar generator for half the price.
You sound like the kind of guy who goes to a muscle car show and brags about how many miles per gallon your prius gets.
Is it possible to rig a system so that the house batteries are charge by:
1. Solar
2. Shore power
3. RV’s alternator
And
4. RV’s generator?
Yep! That's how this system would work if it had a generator installed. The splice kit would just go between the transfer switch & breaker box.
why not pull the converter out of the RV? I really got lost with your explanation of of the Lynx connections, wiring and the battery box on the tongue. Why did that need to remain????
It's just easier and reversable if you leave it in place and just turn it off. You can totally remove it if you like, it's just more work for no benefit.
I am about to install a solar system in my 1972 gm greyhound bus. My challenge is some batteries come with a C1 rating and some with a C.5 rating which is better to purchase?
With Battle Born LiFePO4 Batteries like we installed in this system; C ratings aren't really a consideration.
@EXPLORISTlife I'm working on a very similar Grand Design and will be installing in a similar but smaller pass through compartment. I ordered my parts from you last week. Can I install the Lynx Distributor, 100/50, and Smart Shunt upside down on the ceiling of the pass through to save space?
MPPT 'should' be mounted vertically for best cooling. The others are fine, though.
@@EXPLORISTlife thank you for the reply!
Victron is the absolute best equipment I've ever used in this application. I have no complaints. I'm curious. What did this install cost? I estimate 13k
Total installation cost is in the full kit product page in the video description.
If installing a system like this in a caravan , is there a need for an earth to be connected from the inverter to the lynx distributor? It seems redundant to me but I thought I would ask. Thank you for all the amazing content
It should be connected, yes, just like shown in the diagram and tutorial.
why connect to shore power, convert to 12 volts and then invert back to AC? Doing so you do not supply the power for the air conditioner to run. So, no air conditioning at all in your setup.
This system does indeed supply power to the air conditioner both when connected and disconnected from shore power.
The M-6006 switch online says it accommodates up to 4/0 wire but you are able to use the 2/0?
2/0 is smaller than 4/0
Great video as usual. Still curious about the heat anticipation and how the stress test went out with the multiplus mounted horizontally.
We had no overheating alarms during our testing.
Hello, I'm wandering if some of these components generates heat and noise and if yes how can you sleep/live there?
They create some heat and noise; yes. About the same as a computer or video game console. I sleep with a white noise app on my phone or a fan running...so I'm not somebody who wants/needs complete silence while sleeping.
I read that it is recommended that you install the DC to DC charger close to the source (tow battery). Do you agree with this?
After watching our tutorial and seeing where we installed our dc dc charger, what do you think we recommend? 😉🤣
I would immediately discredit any source saying to install the dc dc charger near the starter battery.
Did you check torque on any of the bolts or did you just have a feel for 125 inch pounds?
We used a torque wrench/screwdriver on all connections.
To disable the existing converter, rather than turning off the breaker and taping it, wouldn't it be better to remove it and install a filler plate?
Not better, no. Just a different solution to the same problem
What would it have taken to make the system capable of running the Air conditioning?
More batteries & a bigger inverter. Basically what we did here: ua-cam.com/video/9fmL1RfmZJk/v-deo.html
So they prewired half of it? From the solar to the cabinet, but no prewire to the breakers? WTH?
😂🤣 Yeah; 'solar ready' is a bit of a scam, but it is nice that we didn't have to run wires.
Battleborn batteries are ridiculously expensive, and NO, they are not worth it.
Our electrical systems and kits work with nearly any brand of battery on the market. When you’re ready to upgrade your campers electrical system, we’d love to have you as a shop.explorist.life customer, regardless of your battery preference.
How much, if any does all that equipment affect the hitch weight/tong weight of the RV?
The same as if you were storing all of that stuff in their boxes in that forward cargo area.
What’s running the 12 volt and 12 volt fuse panel as you turned breaker off
The battery bank relocation kit.
Nate & Steph,
Wow, this is my 3rd time watching this video! Ha-ha 🤪
I see you used a Victron MPPT 150|60 Tr charge controller (not sure what the Tr means?). I'm sure all solar panels are different, but my Furrion panel is 165W with that Voc spec at 20.4 (so if my goal were 4 panels, then ... "I think, if I'm beginning to learn," all I need is 4 × 20.4Voc = 81.6 . Like a Victon 100|30 or 100|50 ???
Does this mean your friends 22MLE have panels with high power Voc specs that drove the 150|60 Tr Charge Controller? 🤔
Cheers & thank you,
Eric
Finally someone that explains the thing the right way and the simple way highly intelligent good video
Hey @guttermastersplus5613, Thanks so much! Cheers!
Wonder what the price difference is between 1 EcoFlow delta pro and this system🤔
I'm sure the ecoflow is probably less expensive, but that's sorta like going to a ford dealership, looking at the Super Duty's and asking what the price difference between that and a Ford Focus is. 🤣😂🤷
Thanks, used this video for our upgrade, and ordered the Lynx Distributor and the Splice Kit from you. Question that might be a quick answer, but maybe not. You recommend disabling the breaker for the OEM converter when disconnected from shore power due to the circular power loss. However, when connected to shore power, I noticed my fridge will not utilize A/C power unless I flip the breaker for the OEM converter back on. When disconnected from shore power (and with the breaker for the OEM converter off) the fridge will only work on Gas and neither A/C nor D/C work. Any suggestions/thoughts?
Wonder if the converter and fridge are on the same circuit? You could unplug/disconnect the converter and leave the breaker on to try to chase that down.
@@EXPLORISTlife Oh my gosh! Fist off, wow, thank you so much for your quick reply...didn't expect that at all, and we are leaving on a five week trailer trip and I just completed this upgrade so really wanted to make sure everything was working properly. Secondly, that was totally it! I remembered after seeing your response that there was a second wire connected together with the converter and going into that breaker. I just fully removed the OEM converter and put only the fridge on that breaker so, now I can just leave it on. THANK YOU! THANK YOU! THANK YOU!!
Good morning. How much does the whole install cost in parts and shipping?
Hey! Check the pinned comment for pricing info.
Great video thanks.
One question... Why make the 12Volt connection in the old battery box instead of bringing it inside and eliminating the old box?
Great question! When we were deciding how to design these systems, a main focus was to make it so these videos are repeatable by nearly everybody wanting to upgrade their camper regardless of make/model of camper. Most campers on the road have a dozen or so various wires connected to the OEM battery; which would not be feasible to move inside; so we are just bringing power to the OEM battery for those following along who have a bunch of connections at the battery (see the last full install in a truck camper for an example of an OEM battery with a LOT of connections/wires.)
@@EXPLORISTlifeyep, and there's usually some circuit breakers located right there on the tongue, the tongue jack and slides are usually on separate breakers up there.
Yeah, the OEM wiring up under the tongue was a bit of a mess and I didn't quite understand where everything was going; but ultimately, we didn't need to spend any time figuring any of that out since it was working just fine from the factory and we just needed to supply power to all of those pre-existing circuits; regardless of what they were going to.
@@EXPLORISTlifeyeah I was wondering how you were going to tackle that since every rig is different. I was able to move mine inside to a busbar next to my battery bank. Unfortunately I built mine before the lynx distributor was available.
@@EXPLORISTlife Great, thanks for the explanation.
Wow! What a great video but the info is a little over my head. I’m new to RV’ing. I just bought a small Coleman (Dutchmen) travel trailer. I’m hoping to start with a small project as follows: I’d like to upgrade to a Battle Born house battery and add a Victron Orion 12-12/30 DC2DC charger with Anderson connectors for alternator charging as I drive, as you did here. Here’s my question…will adding the Orion cause complications with the existing OEM charging equipment? i.e. Can I add the Orion without removing and/or replacing the OEM AC/DC charger?
how do I know what size fuses I need (MEGA and mrbf)
Properly sized fuses are included in each of our kits featured in this video. Shop.explorist.life
Very informative video. I am planning to add solar to my 2022 Grand Designs Imagine 2600RB. We want the system to support running the A/C as well. What capacity battery bank and solar array should I be looking at? Thanks.
Is an inverter-charger combo needed ONLY if you don't already have a basic solar package that came with your RV? For example, my 2024 Jay Feather 21MML came with a 200W solar panel and a charge controller. It also has a converter that is lithium ready. My ultimate goal is to replace the lead-acid battery with a 300-460 ah lithium. I would also like to get an inverter, but if I don't need to get the inverter-charger, I would prefer not to. What say you? (by the way, I believe it is also "inverter ready")
We do Inverter/Chargers as it makes the overall wiring SIGNIFICANTLY easier, faster, and cheaper with less wiring over messing with secondary transfer switches.
@@EXPLORISTlife -Thank you. I'll study that option some more. Great videos!!
I have a 2019 sprinter 170 extended with 60K miles and many options including 10 inch display and cameras all around. Following your instructions, I added a 500 watt inverter (only about a 30amp draw) to position 6 in the tray using 2awg wire. Connecting to the X145 term #1 I ran a wire to a 200 amp isolator so that the inverter could only operate when the engine was running. This was for emergency purposes if my rerar 3500 watt inverter connected to 800ah lithium battery bank ever crapped out. After putting everything back the engine started right away. took it for a test drive and everything seemed to work as intended, BUT after driving 70 miles to camp on a friends mountain property ---the chassis battery was below 12 volts and it would not start I fact the entire MB side of the house was blacked out--NO LIGHTS ete Borrowing a charger and a long extension cord I was able to get the battery to 12.9 volts and restarted the van in the morning. It immediately went into fast idle mode (an option I did not select when I purchased the van) and this lasted about 10 minutes before slowing to 800 rpms. Driving it out of the mountains, there was a check engine light and glow plug light as well as a battery warning message --also none of the lane keeping or adaptive speed control would work.
After replacing the battery and charging it overnight, all functions returned. It has been to the dealer twice. At their suggestion, I disconnected the inverter from the tray. BUT it still does not appear that the alternator is charging the battery.. I returned from a 4500 mile trip camping around the Great Lakes last month. The van ran like a champ averaging 20mpg and never having an issue starting. Do you have any idea what could have gone so wrong? The dealer's head Sprinter Tech said since 2019 the alternator and entire electrical system is mighty touchy. He suggested if I would like to again connect into the OEM electrical system to do so at the battery.
Do you have a video on a 50 amp conversion, is such a project similar to a 30 amp
I think an earlier post said one was due out soon.
Can I add three batteries to this configuration? or do I need something extra?
We have battery bank wiring kits in our system builder at shop.explorist.life that will accommodate more batteries, yes.
The studs coming off the distributor appear to be aluminum or possibly steel, assuming they aren't nickle coated copper. Assuming they aren't plated copper, is this the suggested way of making this connection?
We have a 2022 Keystone Raptor 352 that came with a 400 watt solar package. The dealer really didn't give me much information to go with and I don't find a lot online about it either. I would really just like to understand the Victron equipment that I have so that I have an understanding of what I can and can't do when considering an upgrade to this system. Just my luck, it will probably just be a tear it out and replace it system...isn't that what they generally add?
Will you build me a system withe 3000 watt inverter and 3 300 batteries ?
It’s already designed and ready to go at shop.explorist.life
I see the OEM using solid core Romex wire for the incoming shore power, a big no no. Solid wire is not meant for a Mobil installation. It is prone to fatigue. Only stranded wire, preferably type 3 is the proper wire for Mobil use. Wonder what else this manufacture does incorectly
Love your videos Nate and Team EXPLORISTlife! I've noticed you prefer all copper lugs over tinned copper lugs. When it comes to long-term corrosion protection, do you see any added benefit to tinned copper lugs? Thanks and keep the great vids coming!!
So, all of the wiring in a camper is un-tinned copper, so to me, the added expense of making the wiring last longer than the factory wiring is not necessary. I'd suspect the frame and roof of the camper will rot long before the wires corrode to the point of needing replacement.
@@EXPLORISTlife Makes sense. Thanks for the reply!
Tinned copper is important for marine or similar harsh environments, not nearly as important for this application. In the old days with lead-acid batteries the terminals attached to those batteries needed to be tinned because acid. LiFePO4 don't have that problem. (thank goodness!)
Since you don't have a switch where you splice the Multiplus into the existing AC circuit, doesn't that mean that the shore power connector terminals on the outside of the trailer will have live AC voltage on them when the Multiplus is powering the AC side of the trailer? I think that means the exposed male terminals on the other end of the shore power cord -- if it were plugged into the trailer -- would have live AC voltage on them and could backfeed that into the shore power receptacle.
Nope. Powe flow goes: shore power inlet -> multiplus ac in -> multiplus ac out -> breaker box. There's no way it would go backwards. The input and output inside of the splice box aren't connected in any way.
@@EXPLORISTlife Ahh, got it! Thanks. The splice kit runs shore power TO the Multiplus. Then the splice kit takes AC power out of the Multiplus and feeds the AC side of the trailer.
Yep!