Perfect timing for this video; I downloaded the schematic a couple days ago and have been searching in vain for the accompanying video - It just showed up! I'm in the process of installing solar on my Northern Lite 9-6 right now. I'll be placing my order shortly. Thanks for these well-crafted videos and explanations.
Thanks guys. Great video as always. Used the wiring diagram a year ago to do this build in a similar Northern Lite adding 500 W Solar and 4 100 W BB batteries. Replaced the non working three way frig with 12v and the system has worked great. One thing you didn't show and I'd love to know is how you ran the cable from the existing battery compartment and back to the linx distributor. Thanks again for giving us all the knowledge to get this work done. You guys are great.
Thanks! Wire from pre-existing battery location to new Lynx Distributor location ran out the top of the battery box; under the bottom storage compartment (cable clamped up and out of the way); under the shower, and into the dinette area.
I have just discovered your page, wow, I have no problem with women and quite frankly I prefer it as it makes my wife see a woman doing the tasks. It really inspires her a LOT. thanks. Chuck Max
Amazing. This may be the video that gets me over the finish line. I'm installing the Orion XS 50A to a Cirrus 920 that already has a lot of Victron, and an F350 with two batteries and two starters. Learning that the starter battery is on the passenger side, I'll run the cables accordingly. The Victron components are also on the passenger side. I'll watch this again, and maybe some parts a 3rd time. Lastly, I saw that! 😄
Thanks so much for this detailed video! I installed much of this about a year ago, but it wasn’t working as expected (charging from both the truck and solar were at lower than expected rates). Your video walked me through the Victron setups, and it turns out I had just left the default settings. When I changed to your suggested settings, everything started working great!!
This is just brilliant! Truly invaluable for us! A complete guide that enabled us to perform our own upgrade on our AF 1150. One question you asked concerning wiring into the ATS with your new “Multiplus splice kit”… Our 2023 AF 1150 wiring was way too complicated to work in that box. It was easier to go straight to the ATS itself with In/ Out wiring to and from inverter. The ATS sits right next to the main fuse panel and wiring is nearly impossible to work into. We purchased a full kit from you and were blown away with the professional packaging and high quality! Took all the guess work out!
I enjoy your videos and appreciate how thoroughly you explain everything. One thing that killed my OCD though is drilling the hole for the alternator charging. Personally, I would have rather seen a smaller hole drilled, pushed the wires through, and then attached the anderson connector. But I was not there, so I don't know any of the obstacles that may have been in the way. Thanks for all the great videos.
I wish I had this video 3 years ago. Exactly what I needed. I have the same setup on my lance. I just ordered 3 more batteries for a total of 600ah. I will check all the settings that you showed and wiring for optimal flow and usage. Thank you for taking the time to video every detail. This video should be linked to every Victron unit sold.
You two are awesome. You provide such detailed information on every video you do. I like how you both switch off on camera time I must say watching the young lady is sleuthing to the eye, and you sir I love your radio voice.
Love the way you guys did this video. Very informative. The breakdown on the install was better the way you showed the visual diagram as you were going as opposed to the whole schematic as completed while you were just getting started. Very inspiring, I’ve been following you guys for a few years it seems. Best installers I’ve seen. Keep it up. It’s beat when you 2 work together, keeps the interest energy up while watching
Thanks Nate and Stef, greatly appreciate the video and all the information you shared. You guys do a great job ! I purchased a 2011, 30 ft class c three years ago when my wife passed away. Something that we were going to do together after attending numerous RV shows over the years. I have worked to renovate and make it my own, even taking it on a 6000 mile roundtrip from Florida to California. Solar continues to be a work in progress as I purchase components to make Solar a reality. I will in the future consider using your store to help take the guess work out of what else I might need to complete this project. Again you guys are awesome, and hope you will always put out such great content. Hope to meet you on the road someday.
Very informative video. Thanks. We just sold our camper/pickup setup which was exactly the same as yours. We had 200A of Battleborn, added 200W of solar. We didn't have a U shape seat for the dinette so it limited the space for all the electronics. Now we are building a 14' box on a Ram 5500. Your videos are very helpful. Keep them coming.
You guys rock. The details and effort into these video are outstanding Watching these video has become an addiction!!! I Have one question when you add the DC - DC controller what happens to the factory fitted charger
Loving this video! So much to digest and implement in my Sprinter conversion. Thank you so much, guys. I'm looking into what options and customizing I can use and this is perfect. Top notch, folks!
Thank you for the video. How much did it cost for all of the parts, solar, batteries, etc.? Can you run your air conditioning with this set up? Thank you.
I realize this might sound like a silly idea but hear me out XD. My solar panels are mounted just like these on a Bigfoot truck camper. I'm full time in Alaska atm (I do have shore power most of the time). The first wet snow we had has stuck to my Solar panels, even after driving 50mph. If I had access to a shop and could figure out the wiring I think I would tape a grid of low voltage heating wire under the panels with a switch in the camper so I could clear snow/ice build up on the road. I found "Nob.Yi 12V Pre-assembled Heating Cable Low Voltage Carbon Fiber Heating Wire" on Amazon and the draw doesn't seem too bad but I have no Idea if it would really work and I wouldn't want to insulate the bottom of the solar panel unless it was easy to remove for summer when the panels need to stay cool.
I did a very similar upgrade to my Northern Lite using your van diagram and love it. I am curious how hot the Orion gets. I have used my thermal camera to read up to 175 degrees F at the inner area of the heat sink. Not hot enough to cause a fire, but too hot to touch and it emits a hot electrical odor.
Stellar video with amazing shooting, editing, and production. I love the graphics. The knowledge and quality of the install would be tough to improve as well. Do you have a total cost of this upgrade on your site? It would help me choose which camper I would purchase, knowing that it almost certainly should have this upgrade.
Regarding Smart Alternators and DC DC Chargers, I had an issue regarding my Nissan Armada, had a smart shunt that reduced the voltage of the alternator to the battery to 12V, after 5 minutes of run time of the vehicle. Of course this was below the voltage I had set for the ignition on detect for the DC DC charger. So the result would be, that the DC DC charger would only provide power for 5 minutes, each time we stopped to get fuel. 12 hours laters and a stop at Buckees's for fueld. The AGM batteries were down to 12.4 volts , running our fridge while enroute. I have since removed the smart shunt from the negative battery terminal. And I think this will allow the alternator to give full charge to the battery at all times.
Great video as always. I am in the process of adding solar, lithium and a new inverter/charger to my 1993 Airstream B190 van camper. I have two questions regarding the mounting of the solar panels on the truck camper. 1. is the shell fiberglass? 2. what is the 3m tape you are using for the mounting? Thanks and I look forward to your next video.
These videos are great. I am planning to a very similar upgrade and this looks like exactly what I need. I plan to support your shop since you spend so much time providing this educational material. One question: maybe I missed it, but where is the chassis ground? Shouldn't there be a ground wire running from the negative terminal or Lynx Distributor negative bus bar to the chassis?
@@EXPLORISTlife Thanks for the response! I forgot the camper can be removed from the chassis. I've got essentially the same setup except mine is a class C on a truck, so like a permanent truck camper. This is an awesome video.
Nate, great video! Why did you add new wiring from truck start battery to camper. Trucks usually have a 30 to 40A fuse protected RV charge wiring back to 7 pin RV connector receptacle? Also RV has charge wiring from the 7 pin RV connector plug to RV battery.
Great video that’s exactly what I’m wanting to do to our truck camper. I’ve gone to your website for a wiring diagram and put in the parameters of my rig and I it says: Multiplus 2K. Coming Summer 2023. What’s the difference in what that one will be and what the link in this video is?
Another fantastic video, of course. I used your methods to install a MultiPlus on my travel trailer 2 years ago. Works great. Question: Should I update the firmware on my MultiPlus? There's been quite a few updates. I'm at v430. I know they say if it works, don't touch but am I missing features having an old version of firmware? Would I benefit to update? Thanks.
What would you guys think of having the MEGA fuses above the positive cable in the Lynx Dist? So that if a fuse blows, it’s just slightly easier to replace the fuse since you won’t have to lift that positive cable up and out of the way. The fuse may bend slightly if you do this, but likely not much. Also, how annoying is it that these fuses don’t show what size they are once you’ve covered them with the mounting hardware?!? The size should be printed on the black body of the fuse in the same area as ANL fuses do. Great stuff you guys. Thanks.
1: That fuse shouldn't blow. If it does; it's because something catastrophic has happened and you'll be in there with tools anyway fixing whatever broke. 2: Out of the annoying things I deal with on a day to day basis, I'd rate that at 2/10 annoying, but I do agree. 🤣
I really don't understand why you incorporate the 'OEM' transfer switch into the system instead of removing it for the sake of space (and simplicity) and just using the built-in one in the victron. Seems like you do this in all your builds. Can you explain? Great videos btw.
The Victron built in transfer switch only switches it's output between the input power and the inverter power. They need to keep the factory transfer switch in front of the inverter/charger in this build to switch between the generator or shore power as power inputs.
@@jba6677 I see, so what you're saying is that there are 2 separate inputs (receptacles), one for generator power and one for shore power. I was thinking just one for either or.
Thank you for sharing this helpful video. Why use an Orion DC-DC charger when the Multiplus is also a programmable charger? Why not use the Orion DC-DC converter and let the Multiplus control the charging stages?
Very Instructional and detailed !!! you guys do a great job. Have you done an upgrade such on this on a 50 amp rig? I have a Class A and looking to upgrade to much the same as you just did with all Victron equipment as I used it before on a off grid shed and think it's the best and easy to use with their awesome software and the power assist is great to have.
Great channel, glad I subscribed. I restified a 1973 Holiday brand camper. I ordered a 200 watt solar system because I only need power for a small fridge ( maybe 2 square feet). It has a 30amp PWM charge controller, 2 100 watt panels. I ordered a 1500 watt inverter, and will store the power in 3 NAPA No. 24 575 A batteries. All I need is information on where to put fuses or circuit breakers, and how large. Any help is appreciated. Stay safe.
Here is a video that will teach you where fuses go in a camper electrical system: ua-cam.com/video/5pHmjatMkvs/v-deo.html Here is a video we made a while back that teaches how to size fuses: ua-cam.com/video/5y-yDMEgV70/v-deo.html
Very nice and clear install video. I've got 1 question about the alternator charging. As the van battery is now directly connected to the orion, isn't it now draining the van battery? I thought you would connect an ignition switch, with time delay, to activate the orion. Possibly with the switch between the green jumper? And, should you maximize the alternator current set in the orion to prevent a alternator meltdown? Love to hear from you. Greetings, Edwin NL
Be mindful of AC loads when you're off grid. You'll need to manually switch between AC and propane for the refrigerator since the auto select favors AC if available. Also, if you've left the AC hot water switch on you'll be hurting.
Thanks for the video! Did you keep the 12VDC pin on the 7-pin connector in tact? Will this lower voltage charge still be applied to the battery bank through the OEM wiring, as it is connected to the batteries via bus bar in the OEM battery bank? Will that be an issue for the Li batteries since they like a much higher voltage than we would see at the 7pin connector?
I’ve watched most of your videos, and in this case there are 2 solar arrays so it makes sense. But why when there is only 1 solar array do you always use the dual solar isolator instead just putting a switch on the positive wire? Is there a need to also open the ground circuit on a solar array?
Hi Nate and Steph. I see at the end of the video that the OEM 7-pin is still connected, which I assume is for brake lights / reverse lights / etc. Did you need to disconnect the OEM 7-pin alternator charging function once you had the Orion installed? Or did it not hurt anything to leave it as-is. Thanks
Nate, Great video. Is there a video that goes into detail of how to program the cell phone Victron connect app? Like what to know or where to get the info to program it.
Is there something in particular you want to know about? All of the settings we used were shard in this video if I remember correctly (been a few weeks since I watched this back start-to-finish).
Been waiting for this video! We have a Northern Lite as well, and are very interested in upgrading the electrical system - especially adding the DC to DC charger. Our floorplan is slightly different, so everything we do will have to go in the area where the existing battery is located (passenger side rear). My question is about voltage drop. I was surprised to see you guys use 6awg wire on this install. Considering the distance from the truck "starter" battery, and the two Anderson plugs and "jumper" cable, isn't voltage drop a concern? In my case, the charger is going to end up being ~30 feet from the truck's starter battery. There are some youtubers out there saying you have to use 2-0 awg wire for that distance to prevent voltage drop. Not sure what to do? Thanks!
2/0 would be comically oversized. 6ga @ 60ft of wire (30 pos & 30 neg) at 14.4V and 30A is 10% voltage drop, which is well within parameters for the Orion to boost voltage. Remember... one of the main functionalities of the Orion is to boost the incoming voltage to charge the house batteries. The Orion doesn't care if it's getting 3% or 10% voltage drop as long as it's getting above it's minimum voltage input. I've actually already made a video about this that goes into more detail about why 6ga is just fine in nearly all scenarios with the orion: ua-cam.com/video/0xOvINH4tKs/v-deo.html
@@EXPLORISTlife Thanks so much! I saw the first voltage drop video that you did, but I don't know how I missed the second one! That clears things up. I do have one more question and comment. Question: What would gauge wire would you recommend running from the starter battery to the coach battery in the same situation if I wanted to do the dual Orion setup that you did in a different video? Comment - As a retired high school science teacher, I have to say that the way that you demonstrate and explain things is excellent! Please keep up the good work!
I see an overcurrent single pole breaker in the diagram at the cb panel but no 2-pole main CB for the Multiplus output which with power assist could be 50a. I don’t see a Residual Current Device (RCD) either at shore power/generator source of power nor after Multiplus source of power. I thought the DIN rail splice box would be a perfect location to protect the whole camper since the Multiplus has the pass thru to make the MP-out the source for all AC loads. The dual pole main CB (MCB) and RCD, too, can be handled in a bigger DIN rail box (MCB, RCD and splice connectors for the other line) You two do beautiful work. A dual pole MCB/RCD for each power source (shore, genset and Multiplus) would follow the Victron install recommendations and ABYC standards a bit closer.
There is a 30A breaker in the shore power pedestal protecting the 30A (10ga) wiring from the shore power pedestal to the Multiplus. There is a 30A breaker in the camper breaker box that protects the 30A wire (10ga) from the multiplus to the breaker box. This is the one that would trip if the multiplus went into power assist and we tried to ask more than 30A from the unit. There are varying degrees of protecting wires; but all of the wires in this system are indeed protected albeit not with GFI, GFCI, AFI, WTF, NFL, and all those other options. This camper electrical system is protected just as much as it was when it left the RV manufacturer; which is what we are shooting for in certain cases. Re: Victron standards. Some of their recommendations are pretty specific for the european power grid. The way I showed in this video is pretty similar to what I did when Victron hired me to design and install the electrical system upgrade in their training trailer in 2021. I'm always on the lookout for how to make our systems safer, so I appreciate the feedback and your thoughts have been heard, but I have to balance system design with parts availability, user friendliness, and space constraints and I'll always adjust as appropriate.
Hi, I’m redoing a RV and was wondering if Blue Sea 8043 AC distribution panel is a good replacement for the AC side of things? Everything is Victron components. 12/3000
*BE SURE TO TAP 'READ MORE' BELOW FOR ADDITIONAL INFO ABOUT THIS PROJECT THAT DIDN'T MAKE IT INTO THE VIDEO* *Full Wiring/Component Kit for this build:* shop.explorist.life/shop/all-products/truck-camper-electrical-upgrade-300ah-battery-bank-multiplus-2k-12v-400w-solar-orion-12-12-30/ *Diagram for this project:* shop.explorist.life/shop/all-products/30a-oem-rv-retrofit-2000w-inverter-200-1000ah-battery-bank-dc-dc-charger-wiring-diagram/ ➤Shop the EXPLORIST.life store: shop.explorist.life ➤Shop Battle Born Batteries: battlebornbatteries.com/?afmc=explorist_bb67 ✅Use code 'explorist' for $50 off per battery. *Other Important Info & FAQ's:* *Chassis Ground:* You may have noticed that we did not use a chassis ground from the Lynx Distributor to the camper chassis. The reason we decided to omit the chassis ground is because this is a fiberglass shell camper and all of the metal is simply 'sandwiched' in place where it needs to be, and none of the metal is connected electrically to each other. So, there was no true way to get a solid chassis ground, so we did not install one. *Fuse on top of vs under Lynx Distributor PCB Ring Terminal @ **29:50**:* I actually go back and forth on that because I do indeed like to always have my electrical connections directly on the busbars/lugs/terminals/etc; but chapter 6.2.4 of the Lynx Distributor manual specifically calls out leaving that little wire terminal in place. For me, personally, if it's a smaller load; I'll leave it in place like the user manual states. If it's a bigger load (like the inverter), I may move the ring terminal on top of the fuse. *Q: Won't the DC DC Charger drain the starter Battery since it doesn't have an ign wire connected?* A: No. The engine shutdown detection settings you saw in the alternator charging section make it so that the Orion turns off when the alternator turns off (which only happens when the engine is off). When the alternator is charging, it is putting off ~14.4V and when the engine shuts down; the starting battery falls to ~13.7V. We set the Orion to 'turn off' when the starting battery falls below 14V and to turn on when the starting battery rises above 14V, indicating a running engine.
Thanks for adding the clarification on chassis ground. I have a few follow-up questions: 1) What if any are the safety risks of not having a chassis ground? 2) Would you feel the need to add one if the camper internal framing used aluminum at most joints? 3) How would you create a chassis ground if the shell was metal? My shell’s junction box only has a 12 gauge ground wire going to the truck’s 4-pin harness, but a wiring schematic I purchased from your site specifies 2 gauge
Yep! Battle Born Batteries -> OEM Battery Relocation Kit -> Generator EVERY 12V circuit; including the generator starting circuit, is being powered by the Battle Born Batteries through the Battery Relocation kit.
Hi Nate, in one of your videos you recommended a company that built custom battery cables. I bought from them but now can not find their name to order more. Can you tell me who it was ? Thank you
We will be making a video about a travel trailer, specifically (released the 3rd Sunday of August), but the concepts will be the same. Travel trailers will usually be easier on installation simply due to having more (flat) space to work with.
It appeared that this camper came to the shop with a tubular aluminum rack upon which a rooftop carrier is mounted. That rack shadows the factory-installed panels. This can substantially reduce their performance. You might mention this to the customer….
@@EXPLORISTlife Any recommendations/gotchas in that build? I've scoped out what I need, and it doesn't makes sense to go for 800AH @ 12V, while I can just get a 5KW or 10KW wall-mount.
@@trollteam4422 Yes. You'll want to consider all of your switches & fuses as 60+ V DC & breakers are hard to find/source and are expensive. Remember that a 48V system charges at nearly 60V; so standard 'big red battery switches' rated for 48V are not appropriate.
Any chance you can show us how to protect our solar setup from lightning strike without a direct ground like normal home based solar have? I’ve been looking everywhere and I can’t find anything about how to install a surge arrestor for rv based solar.
If your RV takes a direct lightning strike, there's a pretty substantial chance that it'll blow a hole in the roof and wall big enough to total the RV; so the best way to 'protect' is to make sure your electrical system upgrades are covered under insurance.
@@EXPLORISTlife well poop. I saw many folks say if it’s aluminum frame or aluminum exterior that it’ll be fine inside but likely wreck some of the electronics, especially batteries or solar. I’ve increased my insurance to cover my equipment but wasn’t sure if there were surge arresters that’d work for off grid mobile solar like they do in home earth ground setups.
Many thanks for this! I have the same camper and am planning to do an almost identical upgrade to mine so I will likely be watching this video many times over the next couple of months. I'm thinking of buying a second Lynx Distributor and installing it near the solar controller and old battery box. I assume that I could then wire the new solar controller for the existing panels and the existing DC services to it rather than using the bus bars you've recommended. This would allow me to get rid of the self resetting breakers which kind of scare me. Does this sound ok to you? Dumb question #2: I mistakenly purchased a non-isolated Orion. Can I connect the truck battery negative to the Lynx and the Orion negative to the Lynx. It seems to me that this would give me a solid connection to the truck ground which would probably better than relying on the camper ground which is connected through one of the tie-downs. Dumb question #3: Have you left the power and ground connections on the 7 pin intact? These won't cause any issues due to the different voltage between the truck and the camper?
You could always sell the non-isolated version on facebook marketplace or something and buy the correct parts from our store so you are guaranteed to have the right stuff: shop.explorist.life
@@EXPLORISTlife What a flip and totally unhelpful answer. I'm in Canada, so ordering from your store is pretty expensive given shipping, brokerage and duty. I have bought plans from your store and I did donate a little bit of money for this video in order to support your work, but I won't be doing that again.
Or buy the correct part from your preferred dealer. Either way. 🤷 Just get the correct part. I wasn't trying to be a dick. Just trying to get you a working system.
Victron settings changed when a software update was performed on my wireless smart shunt. Just making people aware to recheck settings after an update.
You told the reason why you put 2 wire lugs on top of eachother when connecting the batteries, but isn't the terminal much larger than the lug flat end with regards to power flowing through it?
Thanks not how it works, no. The way Steph described and showed is accurate. You want the power flowing out of the terminal into the wiring; not 'through' the terminal.
@@chachi5975 he mentioned you can skip using the inverter if you wanted to stop your set up at that point so if you skipped using the inverter that leaves you with the factory charger.
@@jonathanbeardsley9646at 17:40 he also said you could stop there if you have a lithium capable converter. If you are going to use solar panels, then they would be programmed for lithium batteries. If you are just upgrading the batteries without solar or the inverter charger then yes, you would need to change the OEM charger to something that works on lithium batteries. Progressive industries has direct replacements for most RV converters for people who go that route.
Hey Nate, i noticed on the 2nd solar controller utilizing the factory installed solar panels, that the incoming array voltage is bouncing between 17-20v. Knowing that the victron controllers wont charge unless array voltage is 5v higher than battery voltage, wouldn't it be beneficial to change the factory panels into a series configuration for a higher array voltage?
Maybe; but I wasn't confident enough in that to spend the time to change it as the factory solar panels were also under a roof rack and partially under a cargo box. Tough to say for 100% certain if the effort would have been worth the result.
Was it easier/ cheaper to add the extra charger controller to the existing solar panels verse wiring them in with the new ones and just use the one controller?
It was just the correct way to do it since we couldn't get ahold of matching solar panels for the back two and because the back two solar panels were obstructed by a roof rack & cargo box. It was best to make a new and independent array to give us the best chance for maximum solar charging.
Thanks for asking this. I'm planning on getting the same panels as OEM and using the wiring already in place. I'll be able to use just one MPPT then and not have to drill that hole in the roof.
Hi! I have a mobile tire shop and wanna add a inverter for my Tire Changer Machines. My vehicle is Ford f-350 and wanna get inverter battery charging from Truck (Starting battery ) what shd u guys recommend me. And please send me the link as well where i can buy all the parts(inverter,dctodc charger, batteries) and video links to get more information.
The new Orion xs will provide up to 50A from your vehicle. With a truck that big, your OEM alternator should be able to handle the extra load but you may want to check it.
@@chachi5975 The Orion 50amp charger is what I'm installing in my F350. It has two batteries and two alternators. I've found that the Orion 50 is 98% efficient. Even one alternator on that truck will be sufficient. I doubt that they put a weak charger in it. lol
@@AllanMain1776 yeah I have a 4Runner that came with 130A alternator. I mentioned to my mechanic that people are recommending half the capacity and he kinda winced. He said the engineers sized it with some wiggle room but that's a pretty big draw. I found a 250A replacement and had a choice of powder coated colors, so I couldn't resist! My first time driving it got me almost the full 50A with a pretty long run from the front of the 4Runner to the battery bank under my couch. I couldn't be happier with the performance! The only issue I had was trying to get ferrules to fit on 4ga wire and go into the terminal. I really wish Victron would use terminals fit for lugs!
@@chachi5975 I've been hearing and reading that an alternator can run about half their amperage rating continuously. It takes me a bit to get the fine wires of the 4AWG into the ferrules, but once their on I have a small celebration. What color alternator did you go with?
@@AllanMain1776 I was having a hard time with the square ferrule crimper so I went with a 6ga hex crimper and it worked much better! Purple alternators rock!🤣
Hi, can you set any of the charges a little higher.. say 14.7v to allow for voltage drop? when should this be done? Can we measure the voltage at the battery and compare to what the charger thinks it should be?
The question is: When should that be done. My answer is: Never. With the adequate sized wiring and DC distribution that you get in our kits & designs; voltage drop is kept to an extreme minimum. Plus, Battle Born recommends being charged in a range of 14.4-14.6V. We set our chargers to the high side of that range so that even if there is 1% voltage drop (which is very minimal, mind you), the chargers are still charging to their recommended parameters. And since the BMV is set to show 'full' when the voltage reaches 14.4V; we are good to go there as well.
@@EXPLORISTlife Interesting take from Victron. I just pulled up the manual and read what you stated in the FAQ: "The second fuse connection has a wire with cable lug that is already connected to it. Leave this wire in place and place the fuse on top of the red cable lug." Doesn't sound right at all.
The engine shutdown detection settings in the Orion handle that. When the engine is off, the alternator stops and the starting battery voltage falls to resting voltage. The orions sees that and assumes the engine is off and stops pulling power to charge.
6ga wire powering a 2000va inverter would be wildly undersized. 2/0 is the appropriate wire size for max amps of the biggest load in the system (the inverter) and to keep the voltage drop on that load to a minimum. 2/0 is also recommended right there in the Victron Multiplus 2k user manual.
Nope. The DC DC Charger turns off when the starter battery voltage falls below 14V (or whatever I set it to in the video) which indicates that the engine is off. Disconnecting the starter battery from the house battery is a built in feature of the Orion when properly programmed.
One way to keep that hole in the exterior of the camper for the DC to DC charger would be to place the Andersen connector on after routing the wire. Just a suggestion...
Not sure if it matters or not, but when you wired in the solar power to the bus bar, there was a power wire under the mega fuse on the bus bar. Could that cause that line to run hot? (time: 29:55)
I actually go back and forth on that because I do indeed like to always have my electrical connections directly on the busbars/lugs/terminals/etc; but chapter 6.2.4 of the Lynx Distributor manual specifically calls out leaving that little wire terminal in place. For me, personally, if it's a smaller load; I'll leave it in place like the user manual states. If it's a bigger load (like the inverter), I may move the ring terminal on top of the fuse.
Hey guys, I just subscribed to your community. I have a 2019 Northern lite 10-2 camper like the one in the video (different year though) and I want to talk to you about designing a 48v system to replace the 12 v. I couldn't get connected to the discord channel hence the comment here. Would you be able to help? Thanks in advance
A 48V system wouldn't make sense in this size of build. 12V like we did in this video actually makes the most sense (which is why we did it like this 😉) but if you have pre purchase questions feel free to submit a pre-purchase support ticket over on shop.explorist.life
Prioritizing the voltage of the system over everything else is like going to the car dealership with a set of 44" super swamper tires and asking what commuter car will fit them. It's just backwards.
@@EXPLORISTlife Thanks for getting back to me. Only reason for going 48v is what Will Prowse said in his video on how he doesn't understand why people still build 12v systems. Bigger wires, more current flowing etc. he said in his videos. So if it doesn't make sense to do a 48 volt system, then so be it. You guys know a heck of a lot more than I do. So I have already bought a pair of LiTime 12v 100 amp batteries already so I will continue with these. My camper is a face to face dinnete and the battery location is up closer to the sleep over cab part and my dual propane tanks are where the batteries are in the camper in the video. So I guess my next question is do you do one on one help for a fee? Even watching the video I had questions, like "how did he run the wires" etc. Is email correspondence a thing for you in walking someone through if they had questions? Thanks
To my knowledge, Will doesn't do system designs anymore for RV's and focuses more on off grid/grid tied houses, which is where that statement comes from, I'd imagine (and I'd very much agree with in that case). At any rate; I'm sure he's got his reasons, but since we are having to design these systems, source the parts to make the complete system, and provide personalized tech support for those who purchase from us; we have to recommend a system that we can support all of those steps on. We most definitely recommend 48V systems for systems requiring larger inverter outputs, no alternator charging, and no DC loads (off grid houses) but there are a lot of gotchas when moving to mobile applications. Our email based support is free for customers: shop.explorist.life/support We also have 1-on-1 paid video consulting if you feel that is necessary: shop.explorist.life/shop/consultations-installations/diy-electrical-collaboration-consultation/ We will even install it for you: shop.explorist.life/shop/consultations-installations/installation-request-deposit/ All kinds of support options.
Those panels up in the roof hurt my eyes... remember guys that for solar panels, the less powerful will limit the string, so if two panels are oriented differently, one of those will always limit the other one
Sure! I didn't want to talk about those tubes or whatever on top of the panels that are almost cutting off the cell strings (MUST SEE ua-cam.com/video/UNPJapaZlCU/v-deo.html where you can see cross shadows are the worst ones). Disclaimer: I only want to be constructive :) I'm a fan of your channel
These real world demos are perfect. So good to see you start this series...
Hey @berthaduniverse, Thanks so much! Cheers!
Perfect timing for this video; I downloaded the schematic a couple days ago and have been searching in vain for the accompanying video - It just showed up! I'm in the process of installing solar on my Northern Lite 9-6 right now. I'll be placing my order shortly. Thanks for these well-crafted videos and explanations.
Thanks guys. Great video as always. Used the wiring diagram a year ago to do this build in a similar Northern Lite adding 500 W Solar and 4 100 W BB batteries. Replaced the non working three way frig with 12v and the system has worked great. One thing you didn't show and I'd love to know is how you ran the cable from the existing battery compartment and back to the linx distributor. Thanks again for giving us all the knowledge to get this work done. You guys are great.
Thanks! Wire from pre-existing battery location to new Lynx Distributor location ran out the top of the battery box; under the bottom storage compartment (cable clamped up and out of the way); under the shower, and into the dinette area.
Another gem of a video. Thank you guys! 🥰
I have just discovered your page, wow, I have no problem with women and quite frankly I prefer it as it makes my wife see a woman doing the tasks. It really inspires her a LOT. thanks. Chuck Max
Amazing. This may be the video that gets me over the finish line.
I'm installing the Orion XS 50A to a Cirrus 920 that already has a lot of Victron, and an F350 with two batteries and two starters. Learning that the starter battery is on the passenger side, I'll run the cables accordingly. The Victron components are also on the passenger side.
I'll watch this again, and maybe some parts a 3rd time.
Lastly, I saw that! 😄
Thanks so much for this detailed video! I installed much of this about a year ago, but it wasn’t working as expected (charging from both the truck and solar were at lower than expected rates). Your video walked me through the Victron setups, and it turns out I had just left the default settings. When I changed to your suggested settings, everything started working great!!
This is just brilliant!
Truly invaluable for us!
A complete guide that enabled us to perform our own upgrade on our AF 1150.
One question you asked concerning wiring into the ATS with your new “Multiplus splice kit”… Our 2023 AF 1150 wiring was way too complicated to work in that box.
It was easier to go straight to the ATS itself with In/ Out wiring to and from inverter. The ATS sits right next to the main fuse panel and wiring is nearly impossible to work into.
We purchased a full kit from you and were blown away with the professional packaging and high quality!
Took all the guess work out!
I enjoy your videos and appreciate how thoroughly you explain everything. One thing that killed my OCD though is drilling the hole for the alternator charging. Personally, I would have rather seen a smaller hole drilled, pushed the wires through, and then attached the anderson connector. But I was not there, so I don't know any of the obstacles that may have been in the way. Thanks for all the great videos.
I wish I had this video 3 years ago. Exactly what I needed. I have the same setup on my lance. I just ordered 3 more batteries for a total of 600ah. I will check all the settings that you showed and wiring for optimal flow and usage. Thank you for taking the time to video every detail. This video should be linked to every Victron unit sold.
You two are awesome. You provide such detailed information on every video you do. I like how you both switch off on camera time I must say watching the young lady is sleuthing to the eye, and you sir I love your radio voice.
Nice video guys , We have the same truck in a dually 👍
Love the way you guys did this video. Very informative. The breakdown on the install was better the way you showed the visual diagram as you were going as opposed to the whole schematic as completed while you were just getting started. Very inspiring, I’ve been following you guys for a few years it seems. Best installers I’ve seen. Keep it up. It’s beat when you 2 work together, keeps the interest energy up while watching
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks so much for watching!
Most information RV, electrical system I have ever seen.
Thanks for sharing.
Glad it was helpful! Cheers!
Thanks Nate and Stef, greatly appreciate the video and all the information you shared. You guys do a great job ! I purchased a 2011, 30 ft class c three years ago when my wife passed away. Something that we were going to do together after attending numerous RV shows over the years. I have worked to renovate and make it my own, even taking it on a 6000 mile roundtrip from Florida to California. Solar continues to be a work in progress as I purchase components to make Solar a reality. I will in the future consider using your store to help take the guess work out of what else I might need to complete this project. Again you guys are awesome, and hope you will always put out such great content. Hope to meet you on the road someday.
Thank you so much; your guidance is excellent. I must say I agree with all the positive comments below from previous entries. Superb quality.
Hey, @roberts79381! I appreciate that. Thanks for watching! 🙂😀
Tremendously helpful, Thank You! You’ve given me the confidence to tackle this.
Glad it was helpful!
Very clean, sensible installation.
Just planning the exact install for my sprinter class C and this checks all the boxes. Thank you!
Possibly your best video ever. You two are masters of clarity. Thanks and keep going strong!
Wow, @silvanocometta9760! We really appreciate that. Thanks for watching! 🙂😀
Very informative video. Thanks. We just sold our camper/pickup setup which was exactly the same as yours. We had 200A of Battleborn, added 200W of solar. We didn't have a U shape seat for the dinette so it limited the space for all the electronics. Now we are building a 14' box on a Ram 5500. Your videos are very helpful. Keep them coming.
Great video. One of the best upgrades I’ve seen. Keep up the excellent content. Jerry…
Hey Jerry, Thanks so much! Cheers!
Awesome job, Very informative. Thank the both of you for your time and knowledge.
Hey @waynelawler7212, Thanks so much! Cheers!
Great job...Thanks again for sharing...
Thank you! Cheers!
You guys rock. The details and effort into these video are outstanding
Watching these video has become an addiction!!!
I Have one question when you add the DC - DC controller what happens to the factory fitted charger
That is a super system. 👍👍
Hey @599miata, Thanks so much! Cheers!
Loving this video! So much to digest and implement in my Sprinter conversion. Thank you so much, guys. I'm looking into what options and customizing I can use and this is perfect. Top notch, folks!
Thanks!
Thank you for the video. How much did it cost for all of the parts, solar, batteries, etc.?
Can you run your air conditioning with this set up? Thank you.
I realize this might sound like a silly idea but hear me out XD. My solar panels are mounted just like these on a Bigfoot truck camper. I'm full time in Alaska atm (I do have shore power most of the time). The first wet snow we had has stuck to my Solar panels, even after driving 50mph. If I had access to a shop and could figure out the wiring I think I would tape a grid of low voltage heating wire under the panels with a switch in the camper so I could clear snow/ice build up on the road. I found "Nob.Yi 12V Pre-assembled Heating Cable Low Voltage Carbon Fiber Heating Wire" on Amazon and the draw doesn't seem too bad but I have no Idea if it would really work and I wouldn't want to insulate the bottom of the solar panel unless it was easy to remove for summer when the panels need to stay cool.
No way I would try this, I’m totally inept. Props. I’m just going to hire job out
Great video. How did you run the battery cables back to the factory battery location?
Fantastic.
Thank you! Cheers!
Outstanding.
Thanks! 🙂🙌
Good Job
Thee absolute best..
I did a very similar upgrade to my Northern Lite using your van diagram and love it. I am curious how hot the Orion gets. I have used my thermal camera to read up to 175 degrees F at the inner area of the heat sink. Not hot enough to cause a fire, but too hot to touch and it emits a hot electrical odor.
Stellar video with amazing shooting, editing, and production. I love the graphics. The knowledge and quality of the install would be tough to improve as well. Do you have a total cost of this upgrade on your site? It would help me choose which camper I would purchase, knowing that it almost certainly should have this upgrade.
Great job 👍
Thanks 👍
Regarding Smart Alternators and DC DC Chargers, I had an issue regarding my Nissan Armada, had a smart shunt that reduced the voltage of the alternator to the battery to 12V, after 5 minutes of run time of the vehicle. Of course this was below the voltage I had set for the ignition on detect for the DC DC charger. So the result would be, that the DC DC charger would only provide power for 5 minutes, each time we stopped to get fuel. 12 hours laters and a stop at Buckees's for fueld. The AGM batteries were down to 12.4 volts , running our fridge while enroute. I have since removed the smart shunt from the negative battery terminal. And I think this will allow the alternator to give full charge to the battery at all times.
Great video as always. I am in the process of adding solar, lithium and a new inverter/charger to my 1993 Airstream B190 van camper. I have two questions regarding the mounting of the solar panels on the truck camper. 1. is the shell fiberglass? 2. what is the 3m tape you are using for the mounting? Thanks and I look forward to your next video.
These videos are great. I am planning to a very similar upgrade and this looks like exactly what I need. I plan to support your shop since you spend so much time providing this educational material. One question: maybe I missed it, but where is the chassis ground? Shouldn't there be a ground wire running from the negative terminal or Lynx Distributor negative bus bar to the chassis?
For a completely fiberglass shell; there's really no way to wire for an actual chassis ground; so it was omitted.
@@EXPLORISTlife Thanks for the response! I forgot the camper can be removed from the chassis. I've got essentially the same setup except mine is a class C on a truck, so like a permanent truck camper. This is an awesome video.
Nate, great video! Why did you add new wiring from truck start battery to camper. Trucks usually have a 30 to 40A fuse protected RV charge wiring back to 7 pin RV connector receptacle? Also RV has charge wiring from the 7 pin RV connector plug to RV battery.
Thanks! The factory 7 pin connection usually has inadequate sized wiring to deliver the 30+ amps of charging we added in this case.
Great video that’s exactly what I’m wanting to do to our truck camper. I’ve gone to your website for a wiring diagram and put in the parameters of my rig and I it says: Multiplus 2K. Coming Summer 2023. What’s the difference in what that one will be and what the link in this video is?
Another fantastic video, of course. I used your methods to install a MultiPlus on my travel trailer 2 years ago. Works great. Question: Should I update the firmware on my MultiPlus? There's been quite a few updates. I'm at v430. I know they say if it works, don't touch but am I missing features having an old version of firmware? Would I benefit to update? Thanks.
Another great video. I did not see you wire a chassis ground. Is that already existing in the OEM wiring?
Thanks! Check the pinned comment for info about chassis grounding in this project.
Great video thanks Nate. Where are you sourcing the solar panel mounts from?
Nate, thanks for the great video. Can you use the Lynx Distributor to connect an invertor? This seems easier than running cables to the batteries.
I, um... That's what we did in this video... 🤷♂️😂
What would you guys think of having the MEGA fuses above the positive cable in the Lynx Dist? So that if a fuse blows, it’s just slightly easier to replace the fuse since you won’t have to lift that positive cable up and out of the way. The fuse may bend slightly if you do this, but likely not much.
Also, how annoying is it that these fuses don’t show what size they are once you’ve covered them with the mounting hardware?!? The size should be printed on the black body of the fuse in the same area as ANL fuses do.
Great stuff you guys. Thanks.
1: That fuse shouldn't blow. If it does; it's because something catastrophic has happened and you'll be in there with tools anyway fixing whatever broke.
2: Out of the annoying things I deal with on a day to day basis, I'd rate that at 2/10 annoying, but I do agree. 🤣
Yeah, you’re right. Thanks.
I really don't understand why you incorporate the 'OEM' transfer switch into the system instead of removing it for the sake of space (and simplicity) and just using the built-in one in the victron. Seems like you do this in all your builds. Can you explain? Great videos btw.
The Victron built in transfer switch only switches it's output between the input power and the inverter power.
They need to keep the factory transfer switch in front of the inverter/charger in this build to switch between the generator or shore power as power inputs.
@@jba6677 I see, so what you're saying is that there are 2 separate inputs (receptacles), one for generator power and one for shore power. I was thinking just one for either or.
Thank you for sharing this helpful video. Why use an Orion DC-DC charger when the Multiplus is also a programmable charger? Why not use the Orion DC-DC converter and let the Multiplus control the charging stages?
The Multiplus can’t ‘control’ the charging stages of another device.
Very Instructional and detailed !!! you guys do a great job. Have you done an upgrade such on this on a 50 amp rig? I have a Class A and looking to upgrade to much the same as you just did with all Victron equipment as I used it before on a off grid shed and think it's the best and easy to use with their awesome software and the power assist is great to have.
They will in the future, they did a view a while back detailing how theyre doing a few campers this summer.
Great channel, glad I subscribed. I restified a 1973 Holiday brand camper. I ordered a 200 watt solar system because I only need power for a small fridge ( maybe 2 square feet). It has a 30amp PWM charge controller, 2 100 watt panels. I ordered a 1500 watt inverter, and will store the power in 3 NAPA No. 24 575 A batteries. All I need is information on where to put fuses or circuit breakers, and how large. Any help is appreciated. Stay safe.
Here is a video that will teach you where fuses go in a camper electrical system: ua-cam.com/video/5pHmjatMkvs/v-deo.html
Here is a video we made a while back that teaches how to size fuses: ua-cam.com/video/5y-yDMEgV70/v-deo.html
@@EXPLORISTlife Thankyou very much.
Very nice and clear install video.
I've got 1 question about the alternator charging. As the van battery is now directly connected to the orion, isn't it now draining the van battery? I thought you would connect an ignition switch, with time delay, to activate the orion. Possibly with the switch between the green jumper? And, should you maximize the alternator current set in the orion to prevent a alternator meltdown?
Love to hear from you.
Greetings,
Edwin NL
This has been asked about a few times, so I've added it to the FAQ's in the pinned comment.
Be mindful of AC loads when you're off grid. You'll need to manually switch between AC and propane for the refrigerator since the auto select favors AC if available. Also, if you've left the AC hot water switch on you'll be hurting.
Thanks for the video! Did you keep the 12VDC pin on the 7-pin connector in tact? Will this lower voltage charge still be applied to the battery bank through the OEM wiring, as it is connected to the batteries via bus bar in the OEM battery bank? Will that be an issue for the Li batteries since they like a much higher voltage than we would see at the 7pin connector?
I’ve watched most of your videos, and in this case there are 2 solar arrays so it makes sense. But why when there is only 1 solar array do you always use the dual solar isolator instead just putting a switch on the positive wire? Is there a need to also open the ground circuit on a solar array?
Hi Nate and Steph. I see at the end of the video that the OEM 7-pin is still connected, which I assume is for brake lights / reverse lights / etc. Did you need to disconnect the OEM 7-pin alternator charging function once you had the Orion installed? Or did it not hurt anything to leave it as-is. Thanks
Nate, Great video. Is there a video that goes into detail of how to program the cell phone Victron connect app? Like what to know or where to get the info to program it.
Is there something in particular you want to know about? All of the settings we used were shard in this video if I remember correctly (been a few weeks since I watched this back start-to-finish).
Excellent video. How much would all the parts cost for this install please?
That's in the pinned comment.
Been waiting for this video! We have a Northern Lite as well, and are very interested in upgrading the electrical system - especially adding the DC to DC charger. Our floorplan is slightly different, so everything we do will have to go in the area where the existing battery is located (passenger side rear). My question is about voltage drop. I was surprised to see you guys use 6awg wire on this install. Considering the distance from the truck "starter" battery, and the two Anderson plugs and "jumper" cable, isn't voltage drop a concern? In my case, the charger is going to end up being ~30 feet from the truck's starter battery. There are some youtubers out there saying you have to use 2-0 awg wire for that distance to prevent voltage drop. Not sure what to do? Thanks!
2/0 would be comically oversized. 6ga @ 60ft of wire (30 pos & 30 neg) at 14.4V and 30A is 10% voltage drop, which is well within parameters for the Orion to boost voltage.
Remember... one of the main functionalities of the Orion is to boost the incoming voltage to charge the house batteries. The Orion doesn't care if it's getting 3% or 10% voltage drop as long as it's getting above it's minimum voltage input.
I've actually already made a video about this that goes into more detail about why 6ga is just fine in nearly all scenarios with the orion: ua-cam.com/video/0xOvINH4tKs/v-deo.html
@@EXPLORISTlife Thanks so much! I saw the first voltage drop video that you did, but I don't know how I missed the second one! That clears things up. I do have one more question and comment. Question: What would gauge wire would you recommend running from the starter battery to the coach battery in the same situation if I wanted to do the dual Orion setup that you did in a different video? Comment - As a retired high school science teacher, I have to say that the way that you demonstrate and explain things is excellent! Please keep up the good work!
Did you disconnect the power from the seven pin plug? Is the truck still trying to charge those batteries through this connection?
Regarding the Ford transit van did the liser skin blocked the van's normal rain control if it does penitents body panels.
Sincerely!
R.S.V.
Love the DIN rail wiring. Why no RCD in the Multi+ output line?
There is a breaker in the breaker box connected to the muli+ output line.
I see an overcurrent single pole breaker in the diagram at the cb panel but no 2-pole main CB for the Multiplus output which with power assist could be 50a. I don’t see a Residual Current Device (RCD) either at shore power/generator source of power nor after Multiplus source of power. I thought the DIN rail splice box would be a perfect location to protect the whole camper since the Multiplus has the pass thru to make the MP-out the source for all AC loads. The dual pole main CB (MCB) and RCD, too, can be handled in a bigger DIN rail box (MCB, RCD and splice connectors for the other line)
You two do beautiful work. A dual pole MCB/RCD for each power source (shore, genset and Multiplus) would follow the Victron install recommendations and ABYC standards a bit closer.
There is a 30A breaker in the shore power pedestal protecting the 30A (10ga) wiring from the shore power pedestal to the Multiplus.
There is a 30A breaker in the camper breaker box that protects the 30A wire (10ga) from the multiplus to the breaker box. This is the one that would trip if the multiplus went into power assist and we tried to ask more than 30A from the unit.
There are varying degrees of protecting wires; but all of the wires in this system are indeed protected albeit not with GFI, GFCI, AFI, WTF, NFL, and all those other options.
This camper electrical system is protected just as much as it was when it left the RV manufacturer; which is what we are shooting for in certain cases.
Re: Victron standards. Some of their recommendations are pretty specific for the european power grid. The way I showed in this video is pretty similar to what I did when Victron hired me to design and install the electrical system upgrade in their training trailer in 2021.
I'm always on the lookout for how to make our systems safer, so I appreciate the feedback and your thoughts have been heard, but I have to balance system design with parts availability, user friendliness, and space constraints and I'll always adjust as appropriate.
How many batteries to run the AC overnight? Change the AC unit to a 12V?
Hi, I’m redoing a RV and was wondering if Blue Sea 8043 AC distribution panel is a good replacement for the AC side of things? Everything is Victron components. 12/3000
*BE SURE TO TAP 'READ MORE' BELOW FOR ADDITIONAL INFO ABOUT THIS PROJECT THAT DIDN'T MAKE IT INTO THE VIDEO*
*Full Wiring/Component Kit for this build:* shop.explorist.life/shop/all-products/truck-camper-electrical-upgrade-300ah-battery-bank-multiplus-2k-12v-400w-solar-orion-12-12-30/
*Diagram for this project:* shop.explorist.life/shop/all-products/30a-oem-rv-retrofit-2000w-inverter-200-1000ah-battery-bank-dc-dc-charger-wiring-diagram/
➤Shop the EXPLORIST.life store: shop.explorist.life
➤Shop Battle Born Batteries: battlebornbatteries.com/?afmc=explorist_bb67
✅Use code 'explorist' for $50 off per battery.
*Other Important Info & FAQ's:*
*Chassis Ground:* You may have noticed that we did not use a chassis ground from the Lynx Distributor to the camper chassis. The reason we decided to omit the chassis ground is because this is a fiberglass shell camper and all of the metal is simply 'sandwiched' in place where it needs to be, and none of the metal is connected electrically to each other. So, there was no true way to get a solid chassis ground, so we did not install one.
*Fuse on top of vs under Lynx Distributor PCB Ring Terminal @ **29:50**:* I actually go back and forth on that because I do indeed like to always have my electrical connections directly on the busbars/lugs/terminals/etc; but chapter 6.2.4 of the Lynx Distributor manual specifically calls out leaving that little wire terminal in place.
For me, personally, if it's a smaller load; I'll leave it in place like the user manual states. If it's a bigger load (like the inverter), I may move the ring terminal on top of the fuse.
*Q: Won't the DC DC Charger drain the starter Battery since it doesn't have an ign wire connected?* A: No. The engine shutdown detection settings you saw in the alternator charging section make it so that the Orion turns off when the alternator turns off (which only happens when the engine is off). When the alternator is charging, it is putting off ~14.4V and when the engine shuts down; the starting battery falls to ~13.7V. We set the Orion to 'turn off' when the starting battery falls below 14V and to turn on when the starting battery rises above 14V, indicating a running engine.
Hey, I’m using UA-cam from my phone so I’m not sure if this is true in all circumstances, but this comment doesn’t appear to be pinned.
Thanks for adding the clarification on chassis ground. I have a few follow-up questions:
1) What if any are the safety risks of not having a chassis ground?
2) Would you feel the need to add one if the camper internal framing used aluminum at most joints?
3) How would you create a chassis ground if the shell was metal? My shell’s junction box only has a 12 gauge ground wire going to the truck’s 4-pin harness, but a wiring schematic I purchased from your site specifies 2 gauge
HI, Nate
Are you starting the generator with the BattleBornes?
Nice job!
Yep! Battle Born Batteries -> OEM Battery Relocation Kit -> Generator
EVERY 12V circuit; including the generator starting circuit, is being powered by the Battle Born Batteries through the Battery Relocation kit.
Hi Nate, in one of your videos you recommended a company that built custom battery cables. I bought from them but now can not find their name to order more. Can you tell me who it was ? Thank you
Great job😅😂😅😂
Is it correct to assume this install works for a 30A travel trailer, or are you going to make a specific video for that scenario?
We will be making a video about a travel trailer, specifically (released the 3rd Sunday of August), but the concepts will be the same. Travel trailers will usually be easier on installation simply due to having more (flat) space to work with.
It appeared that this camper came to the shop with a tubular aluminum rack upon which a rooftop carrier is mounted. That rack shadows the factory-installed panels. This can substantially reduce their performance. You might mention this to the customer….
It was discussed, yes.
Have you done a build using a 48V Server Rack battery or even one of the Solar Wall Mountable battery packs? They're all anywhere from 5KW to 10KW.
Not on video, no.
@@EXPLORISTlife Any recommendations/gotchas in that build? I've scoped out what I need, and it doesn't makes sense to go for 800AH @ 12V, while I can just get a 5KW or 10KW wall-mount.
@@trollteam4422 Yes. You'll want to consider all of your switches & fuses as 60+ V DC & breakers are hard to find/source and are expensive. Remember that a 48V system charges at nearly 60V; so standard 'big red battery switches' rated for 48V are not appropriate.
Search for a video we made titled 12V vs 24v vs 48v. I talked about all of that.
@@EXPLORISTlife Yup, I've seen it. Was just curious if there were any successful builds pros were doing and how they felt about it.
Any chance you can show us how to protect our solar setup from lightning strike without a direct ground like normal home based solar have? I’ve been looking everywhere and I can’t find anything about how to install a surge arrestor for rv based solar.
If your RV takes a direct lightning strike, there's a pretty substantial chance that it'll blow a hole in the roof and wall big enough to total the RV; so the best way to 'protect' is to make sure your electrical system upgrades are covered under insurance.
@@EXPLORISTlife well poop. I saw many folks say if it’s aluminum frame or aluminum exterior that it’ll be fine inside but likely wreck some of the electronics, especially batteries or solar. I’ve increased my insurance to cover my equipment but wasn’t sure if there were surge arresters that’d work for off grid mobile solar like they do in home earth ground setups.
Any leads on a terminal cover for the battle born batteries? When in parallel the + and - are so close to eachother. Do you find it not necessary?
Many thanks for this! I have the same camper and am planning to do an almost identical upgrade to mine so I will likely be watching this video many times over the next couple of months. I'm thinking of buying a second Lynx Distributor and installing it near the solar controller and old battery box. I assume that I could then wire the new solar controller for the existing panels and the existing DC services to it rather than using the bus bars you've recommended. This would allow me to get rid of the self resetting breakers which kind of scare me. Does this sound ok to you?
Dumb question #2: I mistakenly purchased a non-isolated Orion. Can I connect the truck battery negative to the Lynx and the Orion negative to the Lynx. It seems to me that this would give me a solid connection to the truck ground which would probably better than relying on the camper ground which is connected through one of the tie-downs.
Dumb question #3: Have you left the power and ground connections on the 7 pin intact? These won't cause any issues due to the different voltage between the truck and the camper?
I too purchased a non-isolated DC-DC charger and have tossed out the packaging. Did you get an answer to your question?
@@terrymcneilly2222 Not so far.
You could always sell the non-isolated version on facebook marketplace or something and buy the correct parts from our store so you are guaranteed to have the right stuff: shop.explorist.life
@@EXPLORISTlife What a flip and totally unhelpful answer. I'm in Canada, so ordering from your store is pretty expensive given shipping, brokerage and duty. I have bought plans from your store and I did donate a little bit of money for this video in order to support your work, but I won't be doing that again.
Or buy the correct part from your preferred dealer. Either way. 🤷 Just get the correct part. I wasn't trying to be a dick. Just trying to get you a working system.
Victron settings changed when a software update was performed on my wireless smart shunt. Just making people aware to recheck settings after an update.
You told the reason why you put 2 wire lugs on top of eachother when connecting the batteries, but isn't the terminal much larger than the lug flat end with regards to power flowing through it?
Thanks not how it works, no. The way Steph described and showed is accurate. You want the power flowing out of the terminal into the wiring; not 'through' the terminal.
What charger will be charging the lithium when on shore power? The factory charger is for lead? I’m confused
The Victron multiplus is an inverter charger. The shore power goes through it to either power the camper, charge the batteries or both
@@chachi5975 he mentioned you can skip using the inverter if you wanted to stop your set up at that point so if you skipped using the inverter that leaves you with the factory charger.
@@jonathanbeardsley9646at 17:40 he also said you could stop there if you have a lithium capable converter. If you are going to use solar panels, then they would be programmed for lithium batteries. If you are just upgrading the batteries without solar or the inverter charger then yes, you would need to change the OEM charger to something that works on lithium batteries. Progressive industries has direct replacements for most RV converters for people who go that route.
Hey Nate, i noticed on the 2nd solar controller utilizing the factory installed solar panels, that the incoming array voltage is bouncing between 17-20v. Knowing that the victron controllers wont charge unless array voltage is 5v higher than battery voltage, wouldn't it be beneficial to change the factory panels into a series configuration for a higher array voltage?
Maybe; but I wasn't confident enough in that to spend the time to change it as the factory solar panels were also under a roof rack and partially under a cargo box. Tough to say for 100% certain if the effort would have been worth the result.
@@EXPLORISTlife makes sense, especially if you can't reach the factory connections without removing the panels.
Was it easier/ cheaper to add the extra charger controller to the existing solar panels verse wiring them in with the new ones and just use the one controller?
It was just the correct way to do it since we couldn't get ahold of matching solar panels for the back two and because the back two solar panels were obstructed by a roof rack & cargo box. It was best to make a new and independent array to give us the best chance for maximum solar charging.
Thanks for asking this. I'm planning on getting the same panels as OEM and using the wiring already in place. I'll be able to use just one MPPT then and not have to drill that hole in the roof.
If you disable the oem converter, how are the dc electronics working? Isn't the power out on the multiplus ac? Thank you
Direct from the batteries; then any of the 3x new chargers re-charge the batteries depending on which one is active.
Hi! I have a mobile tire shop and wanna add a inverter for my Tire Changer Machines. My vehicle is Ford f-350 and wanna get inverter battery charging from Truck (Starting battery ) what shd u guys recommend me. And please send me the link as well where i can buy all the parts(inverter,dctodc charger, batteries) and video links to get more information.
The new Orion xs will provide up to 50A from your vehicle. With a truck that big, your OEM alternator should be able to handle the extra load but you may want to check it.
@@chachi5975 The Orion 50amp charger is what I'm installing in my F350. It has two batteries and two alternators. I've found that the Orion 50 is 98% efficient.
Even one alternator on that truck will be sufficient. I doubt that they put a weak charger in it. lol
@@AllanMain1776 yeah I have a 4Runner that came with 130A alternator. I mentioned to my mechanic that people are recommending half the capacity and he kinda winced. He said the engineers sized it with some wiggle room but that's a pretty big draw. I found a 250A replacement and had a choice of powder coated colors, so I couldn't resist! My first time driving it got me almost the full 50A with a pretty long run from the front of the 4Runner to the battery bank under my couch. I couldn't be happier with the performance! The only issue I had was trying to get ferrules to fit on 4ga wire and go into the terminal. I really wish Victron would use terminals fit for lugs!
@@chachi5975 I've been hearing and reading that an alternator can run about half their amperage rating continuously.
It takes me a bit to get the fine wires of the 4AWG into the ferrules, but once their on I have a small celebration.
What color alternator did you go with?
@@AllanMain1776 I was having a hard time with the square ferrule crimper so I went with a 6ga hex crimper and it worked much better! Purple alternators rock!🤣
What was the 7 pin connector used for that you were talking about that was hard to get to
Brake lights, reverse lights & turn signals.
Hi, can you set any of the charges a little higher.. say 14.7v to allow for voltage drop? when should this be done? Can we measure the voltage at the battery and compare to what the charger thinks it should be?
The question is: When should that be done. My answer is: Never. With the adequate sized wiring and DC distribution that you get in our kits & designs; voltage drop is kept to an extreme minimum. Plus, Battle Born recommends being charged in a range of 14.4-14.6V. We set our chargers to the high side of that range so that even if there is 1% voltage drop (which is very minimal, mind you), the chargers are still charging to their recommended parameters. And since the BMV is set to show 'full' when the voltage reaches 14.4V; we are good to go there as well.
Oh no! Did you wire the solar output to the bus on top of the pcb power at 29:50 ?
This has been asked about a few times, so I've added it to the FAQ's in the pinned comment.
@@EXPLORISTlife Interesting take from Victron. I just pulled up the manual and read what you stated in the FAQ: "The second fuse connection has a wire with cable lug that is already connected to it. Leave this wire in place and place the fuse on top of the red cable lug." Doesn't sound right at all.
@nebulight I'm sure they tested it extensively.
Why did you use a Multiplus 2 in this case instead of the classic Multiplus?
The new multiplus 2000 we used (not the multiplus ii, mind you) is actually smaller than the older multiplus 2k compact. 🤣🤷
Since the MultiPlus will charge the batteries from shore power or the generator, why not just remove the 120vac to 12vdc converter?
You could remove the converter entirely, yes. When we turned off the breaker and taped over the breaker, that accomplishes the same thing.
With the direct connection to the car battery how does the Orion charger know when the truck is on?
The engine shutdown detection settings in the Orion handle that. When the engine is off, the alternator stops and the starting battery voltage falls to resting voltage. The orions sees that and assumes the engine is off and stops pulling power to charge.
Hi. I note in the parts list you’re using 2/0 wire. I thought 6 gauge wire would be sufficient for most situations?!
6ga wire powering a 2000va inverter would be wildly undersized. 2/0 is the appropriate wire size for max amps of the biggest load in the system (the inverter) and to keep the voltage drop on that load to a minimum. 2/0 is also recommended right there in the Victron Multiplus 2k user manual.
@@EXPLORISTlifeOK. Thanks.
As wired wont the new battery bank kill the truck battery without ignition switch wired to DC/DC
Nope. The DC DC Charger turns off when the starter battery voltage falls below 14V (or whatever I set it to in the video) which indicates that the engine is off. Disconnecting the starter battery from the house battery is a built in feature of the Orion when properly programmed.
One way to keep that hole in the exterior of the camper for the DC to DC charger would be to place the Andersen connector on after routing the wire. Just a suggestion...
Sure! Also an option.
Not sure if it matters or not, but when you wired in the solar power to the bus bar, there was a power wire under the mega fuse on the bus bar. Could that cause that line to run hot? (time: 29:55)
I actually go back and forth on that because I do indeed like to always have my electrical connections directly on the busbars/lugs/terminals/etc; but chapter 6.2.4 of the Lynx Distributor manual specifically calls out leaving that little wire terminal in place.
For me, personally, if it's a smaller load; I'll leave it in place like the user manual states. If it's a bigger load (like the inverter), I may move the ring terminal on top of the fuse.
@@EXPLORISTlife 👍
Hey guys, I just subscribed to your community. I have a 2019 Northern lite 10-2 camper like the one in the video (different year though) and I want to talk to you about designing a 48v system to replace the 12 v. I couldn't get connected to the discord channel hence the comment here. Would you be able to help? Thanks in advance
A 48V system wouldn't make sense in this size of build. 12V like we did in this video actually makes the most sense (which is why we did it like this 😉) but if you have pre purchase questions feel free to submit a pre-purchase support ticket over on shop.explorist.life
Prioritizing the voltage of the system over everything else is like going to the car dealership with a set of 44" super swamper tires and asking what commuter car will fit them. It's just backwards.
But yeah, very willing to help you out and get you into a system that will work for years to come if you're willing to be flexible on system voltage.
@@EXPLORISTlife Thanks for getting back to me. Only reason for going 48v is what Will Prowse said in his video on how he doesn't understand why people still build 12v systems. Bigger wires, more current flowing etc. he said in his videos. So if it doesn't make sense to do a 48 volt system, then so be it. You guys know a heck of a lot more than I do. So I have already bought a pair of LiTime 12v 100 amp batteries already so I will continue with these. My camper is a face to face dinnete and the battery location is up closer to the sleep over cab part and my dual propane tanks are where the batteries are in the camper in the video. So I guess my next question is do you do one on one help for a fee? Even watching the video I had questions, like "how did he run the wires" etc. Is email correspondence a thing for you in walking someone through if they had questions? Thanks
To my knowledge, Will doesn't do system designs anymore for RV's and focuses more on off grid/grid tied houses, which is where that statement comes from, I'd imagine (and I'd very much agree with in that case). At any rate; I'm sure he's got his reasons, but since we are having to design these systems, source the parts to make the complete system, and provide personalized tech support for those who purchase from us; we have to recommend a system that we can support all of those steps on. We most definitely recommend 48V systems for systems requiring larger inverter outputs, no alternator charging, and no DC loads (off grid houses) but there are a lot of gotchas when moving to mobile applications.
Our email based support is free for customers: shop.explorist.life/support
We also have 1-on-1 paid video consulting if you feel that is necessary: shop.explorist.life/shop/consultations-installations/diy-electrical-collaboration-consultation/
We will even install it for you: shop.explorist.life/shop/consultations-installations/installation-request-deposit/
All kinds of support options.
Those panels up in the roof hurt my eyes... remember guys that for solar panels, the less powerful will limit the string, so if two panels are oriented differently, one of those will always limit the other one
They are close enough in their angles that it doesn't matter in this case, fortunately.
@@EXPLORISTlife you're right... I'm realizing now that I'm taking a look again. They will never give the full power, but they will be close to it :)
On a cold day, the chances that they will produce more than their rated wattage is very high. Would you quit being so negative? 😂🤦♂️
Sure! I didn't want to talk about those tubes or whatever on top of the panels that are almost cutting off the cell strings (MUST SEE ua-cam.com/video/UNPJapaZlCU/v-deo.html where you can see cross shadows are the worst ones). Disclaimer: I only want to be constructive :) I'm a fan of your channel
yikes...... Factory built it to where water pipes that can spring a leak and spray all over the electronic breakers, converters etc.....
Pretty typical, tbh. Some worse than others.
Must have cost a good amount of cash
Yeah; much like any other hobby or interest. Quit being so negative. 🤣🤷♂️
thankx alot very nice info. pls need ur email if posible. thsnx
Glad it helped! Feel free to ask whatever questions you have here so everybody can benefit!
Thanks!