This seems to be way the Argentinian dome builders do it. It does seem pretty advantageous when building a small cabin that you'd want 4-6" of insulation. They use dense packed cellulose it seems so the insides not being square is not an issue. For me personally that's the only place I can see an advantage. For a bigger house you could easily build two beveled frames, say 12" apart, one inside the other. You could connect the frames with gussets, run your electric and plumbing, net the inside and dense pack with cellulose. You could even create an air gap under the sheathing within the outside frame panels. But if you were just looking for 6" of insulation, this would be the more efficient way to do it. Thanks for the vid, Paul.
Hi Paul, with the Pease method, you could do an alternative jig, where the guide blocks are positioned at each corner of the triangle on your template. You could then cut the first compound angle with the first strut in place and whip around with the rest of the struts, lopping off your waste like you do with the bevelled (GoodKarma) method. Also, you are not avoiding cutting compound angles with the beveled method, it's just that you are using the jig and struts in place to guide your hand saw for the offcuts. Apologies for my dumbed down explanation. Your thoughts?
This video shows many domes built using the beveled frame method: ua-cam.com/video/kILxlKIri7o/v-deo.html I have built well over 100 domes using this method and all the plans I sell use the same method. If you check out my channel I have lots of videos showing me build domes using beveled frame system.
My source timber is 100x15mm, up to 1100mm long, so I wanted a 4V 1/2 dome, about 6m diameter. Peese method will work nicely for this. I like the chamfer method, but it works best with square and close to square, not so much for planks.
Nice one Paul, I have to say the beveled frame method is a great approach. I didn't realise you came up with it. Shows how much you know about domes to come up with such a simple way. Do you have a source of double sided glazing tape would you recommend?
There are dome building companies who use a very similar method but I haven't seen anyone publish how this is done, the pease method is similar and has been around for ages, to me the beveled frame system just seems the most logical way to build. I will be adding more build methods soon that you may also find interesting.
OK to get the bevel angle you need the dihedral angle first. some dome calculation tools don't show this but if you look at the ones on geo-dome I do show them. Working out the bevel is simple, take the dihedral angle divide by 2 then take away from 90, this gives the angle to set the saw. Example 3v dome has a 166 degree dihedral so 166/2=83 take 83 from 90 to get 7° bevel. Just be careful as not all calculation tools have the same angles or measurements for a 3v try to use the same one for all your calculations. I will also post a detailed video about this soon.
@@Geo-Dome Was this video ever made? I feel like this is only THE most important part of dome building to get right but nobody really talks about it in videos.
either method would give you a flat inner and outer surface to nail a panel to, or screw, whatever. the bevel lets you fill with a triangle of insulation which has a straight edge/side, and the pease would probably fit snuggly and not fall out, but you could easily get the same effect by going a little big and plug the hole with a slightly compressed piece of insulation. YMMV
See my other comment in this thread. I think if you were looking for a lot of insulation, two beveled frames nested one into another, connected with gussets and blown full of cellulose would be best.
This seems to be way the Argentinian dome builders do it. It does seem pretty advantageous when building a small cabin that you'd want 4-6" of insulation. They use dense packed cellulose it seems so the insides not being square is not an issue. For me personally that's the only place I can see an advantage. For a bigger house you could easily build two beveled frames, say 12" apart, one inside the other. You could connect the frames with gussets, run your electric and plumbing, net the inside and dense pack with cellulose. You could even create an air gap under the sheathing within the outside frame panels.
But if you were just looking for 6" of insulation, this would be the more efficient way to do it.
Thanks for the vid, Paul.
Yep, that's how I would do it also. The bevel angles have to be super accurate for deep frames but if you do two beveled frames it's not so difficult.
Hi Paul, with the Pease method, you could do an alternative jig, where the guide blocks are positioned at each corner of the triangle on your template. You could then cut the first compound angle with the first strut in place and whip around with the rest of the struts, lopping off your waste like you do with the bevelled (GoodKarma) method. Also, you are not avoiding cutting compound angles with the beveled method, it's just that you are using the jig and struts in place to guide your hand saw for the offcuts. Apologies for my dumbed down explanation. Your thoughts?
thanks for sharing!
I love the beveled frame method. It looks fairly straightforward to build. However I'd like to see it actually done first.
This video shows many domes built using the beveled frame method: ua-cam.com/video/kILxlKIri7o/v-deo.html
I have built well over 100 domes using this method and all the plans I sell use the same method. If you check out my channel I have lots of videos showing me build domes using beveled frame system.
My source timber is 100x15mm, up to 1100mm long, so I wanted a 4V 1/2 dome, about 6m diameter. Peese method will work nicely for this. I like the chamfer method, but it works best with square and close to square, not so much for planks.
Great show!
"Parallelogram" is the word you seek in reference to the section you're describing.
4:50 300 mm is roughly 12 inches.
Nice one Paul, I have to say the beveled frame method is a great approach. I didn't realise you came up with it. Shows how much you know about domes to come up with such a simple way. Do you have a source of double sided glazing tape would you recommend?
There are dome building companies who use a very similar method but I haven't seen anyone publish how this is done, the pease method is similar and has been around for ages, to me the beveled frame system just seems the most logical way to build. I will be adding more build methods soon that you may also find interesting.
150mm is 6inches and 300mm is 12inches
What is the possibility of problem if entire geo disc dorm is build with precise bevel cut 4 in thick regid insulation board?
thank you Sir for this valuable informations, my question is how we calculate the Dihedral Angle?
Paul has some free calculators on his site: geo-dome.co.uk/4v_tool.asp
How do you determine the bevel angle
OK to get the bevel angle you need the dihedral angle first. some dome calculation tools don't show this but if you look at the ones on geo-dome I do show them. Working out the bevel is simple, take the dihedral angle divide by 2 then take away from 90, this gives the angle to set the saw. Example 3v dome has a 166 degree dihedral so 166/2=83 take 83 from 90 to get 7° bevel. Just be careful as not all calculation tools have the same angles or measurements for a 3v try to use the same one for all your calculations. I will also post a detailed video about this soon.
@@Geo-Dome Was this video ever made? I feel like this is only THE most important part of dome building to get right but nobody really talks about it in videos.
how do i purchase or acquire some plans?
So what method would you recommend to build a house in Alaska if you wanted 2x8 or 2x10 walls for maximum insulation? Thanks
I will do a video shortly about house building with more detail but I would recommend a double skin so you could use either Beveled frame or pease.
either method would give you a flat inner and outer surface to nail a panel to, or screw, whatever. the bevel lets you fill with a triangle of insulation which has a straight edge/side, and the pease would probably fit snuggly and not fall out, but you could easily get the same effect by going a little big and plug the hole with a slightly compressed piece of insulation. YMMV
See my other comment in this thread. I think if you were looking for a lot of insulation, two beveled frames nested one into another, connected with gussets and blown full of cellulose would be best.